Resveratrol as an active ingredient for cosmetic and dermatological applications: a review

Protective effects of methylnissolin and methylnissolin-3-O-β-d-glucopyranoside on TNF-α-induced inflammation in human dermal fibroblasts

Methylnissolin-3-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (MNG) and methylnissolin (MN) are pterocarpan derivatives that are found in plants, such as Astragalus membranaceus. There are limited existing studies on the potential health benefits of MNG, and currently there is no evidence to suggest that MNG has any impact on skin-aging. Tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α) plays a significant role in skin aging by promoting chronic inflammation, damaging skin cells, and impairing the skin's natural repair mechanisms. Targeting TNF-α or its downstream signaling pathways may be a promising strategy for preventing or reversing skin-aging. We tested the effect of MNG and MN on skin-aging by inducing cell inflammation and oxidative stress with TNF-α in HDFs. MNG and MN significantly reduced the TNF-α-induced secretion of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). However, MNG has more beneficial compound for oral administration than MN in pharmacokinetics analysis. The mechanism underlying the anti-skin-aging effect of MNG is related to the suppression of TNF-α-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPKs) phosphorylation. Our results suggest that MNG is a potential candidate for preventing skin-aging induced by TNF-α.

Antioxidant capacities and non-volatile metabolites changes after solid-state fermentation of soybean using oyster mushroom (Pleurotus ostreatus) mycelium

Given the abundance of beneficial properties and enzymes secreted by edible oyster mushrooms, their mycelium could serve as a starter for fermented foods to enhance their nutritional and bioactive quality. This study aimed to investigate the effects on the nutritional ingredients, antioxidant activity, and non-volatile metabolites during solid-state fermentation (SSF) of soybeans by Pleurotus ostreatus mycelium. The results indicated that the contents of dietary fiber and starch in fermented soybeans decreased, while the amounts of protein and lipid increased after SSF (P < 0.05). Analysis of the total phenolic content (TPC) and antioxidant activities of the fermented soybeans revealed that the methanolic extracts significantly increased TPC and antioxidant activities against intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages, as well as against DPPH and ABTS radicals in vitro. A total 154 differential metabolites were identified after SSF, and a Spearman correlation study revealed a direct relationship between antioxidant activities and certain metabolites including phenolic compounds, oligopeptides, and free fatty acids etc. Among these metabolites, phenolic compounds produced by the shikimic acid pathway were diverse in variety and had the greatest multiple differences. The study discovered that a potential mechanism involving SSF with P. ostreatus mycelium increased the antioxidant activity of soybeans.

Placebo Effects: Neurological Mechanisms Inducing Physiological, Organic, and Belief Responses-A Prospective Analysis

The placebo effect can induce physiological or clinical neurological and organic responses despite the recipient receiving no active ingredients; these responses are based instead on the recipient's perceptions. Placebo effects come from the rostral anterior cingulate cortex, pontine nucleus, and cerebellum of the brain; this information provides a better understanding of placebo effects and can also help us understand the mechanism of the modulation of neurotransmitters from the use of psychedelic substances, activity of selective serotonin reuptake inhibitors, the process of transcranial magnetic stimulation, and deep brain stimulation, as well as aid in developing novel therapies, challenging the validity of controlled clinical trials (RCTs) that the regulatory agencies now appreciate. Education about how placebo effects bring in social, political, and religious beliefs and whether these can be modulated may help reduce global confrontations.

The Potential of Plant Extracts Used in Cosmetic Product Applications-Antioxidants Delivery and Mechanism of Actions

Natural ingredients have been used in skincare products for thousands of years. The current focus is on novel natural bioactivities that shield the skin from UV rays and free radicals, among other damaging elements, while enhancing skin health. Free radicals significantly contribute to skin damage and hasten ageing by interfering with defence and restorative processes. Plants contain natural chemicals that can scavenge free radicals and have antioxidant capabilities. Plant materials are becoming increasingly popular as natural antioxidants related to the expanding interest in plant chemistry. This review focuses on the significance of medicinal plants in skin health and ageing and their potential as a source of antioxidant substances such as vitamins, polyphenols, stilbenes, flavonoids, and methylxanthines.

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin health

MAIN CONCLUSION

This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants' diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Advice to the FDA to Improve Its Proposed Guidelines to Rationalize Clinical Trials by Restricting Placebo Control, Preventing Low-Powered Studies, and Disallowing Studies Where Bioavailability Is Not Proven

Randomized controlled trials (RCTs) are the gold standard for testing the safety and efficacy of new drugs and biologicals. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has proactively improved the trial designs to make them scientifically rational while avoiding unnecessary human exposure. Several new guidelines by the FDA have come in 2024 that address consolidating the RCTs with the Real-World Evidence (RWE) trials, decentralizing the testing platforms, and allowing the point-of-use clinicians to participate. However, the issue of placebo control remains, which is part of RCTs, and it should be reduced or removed given the organic impact of placebo that compounds the efficacy evaluation (explanatory trials), as opposed to effectiveness trials (pragmatic trials), which measure the degree of beneficial effects in "real-world" clinical settings. Additionally, clinical trials with low study power should be allowed, and when the proof of bioavailability at the site of action is not present, it should be removed. It is advised that the FDA issue a comprehensive guideline to consolidate its several guidelines and consider the role of placebo in making drug development a more affordable exercise while meeting the requirement to minimize the abuse of humans in such trials.

The Mechanism Involved in the Inhibition of Resveratrol and Genistein on the Contractility of Isolated Rat Uterus Smooth Muscle

PURPOSE

This study aimed to compare the effects of the phytoestrogens resveratrol (RES) and genistein (GEN) on the contractility of isolated uterine smooth muscle from rats, focusing on both spontaneous and stimulated contractions, and to investigate the underlying mechanisms.

METHODS

Uterine strips were suspended vertically in perfusion chambers containing Kreb's solution, various concentrations of RES and GEN were added to the ex vivo uterine strips, and contractions were measured before and after incubation with RES or GEN.

RESULTS

(1) Both RES and GEN inhibited K+-induced contractions in a dose-dependent manner; the β/β2-adrenoceptor antagonist propranolol (PRO), ICI118551, the ATP-dependent K+ channel blocker glibenclamide (HB-419) and the NO synthase inhibitor N-nitro-L-arginine (L-NNA) diminished the inhibitory effects of RES and GEN on K+-induced contractions. (2) RES and GEN also dose-dependently inhibited PGF2α-induced uterine contractions. (3) The inhibitory effects of RES and GEN were observed in spontaneous contractile activities as well; PRO, ICI118551, HB-419 and L-NNA attenuated the inhibitory effects of RES and GEN on the spontaneous contractions of isolated uterine muscle strips. (4) RES and GEN significantly decreased the cumulative concentration response of Ca2+ and shifted the Ca2+ cumulative concentration-response curves to the right in high-K+ Ca2+-free Kreb's solution. (5) RES and GEN markedly reduced the first phasic contraction induced by oxytocin, acetylcholine, and prostaglandin F2α but did not alter the second phasic contraction caused by CaCl2 in Ca2+-free Kreb's solution.

CONCLUSIONS

RES and GEN can directly inhibit both spontaneous and activated contractions of isolated uterine smooth muscle. The mechanisms underlying the inhibitory effects of RES and GEN likely involve β adrenergic receptor activation, reduced Ca2+ influx and release, the activation of ATP-dependent K+ channels and increased NO production.

Microbial β-glucosidases: Recent advances and applications

The global β-glucosidase market is currently estimated at ∼400 million USD, and it is expected to double in the next six years; a trend that is mainly ascribed to the demand for the enzyme for biofuel processing. Microbial β-glucosidase, particularly, has thus garnered significant attention due to its ease of production, catalytic efficiency, and versatility, which have all facilitated its biotechnological potential across different industries. Hence, there are continued efforts to screen, produce, purify, characterize and evaluate the industrial applicability of β-glucosidase from actinomycetes, bacteria, fungi, and yeasts. With this rising demand for β-glucosidase, various cost-effective and efficient approaches are being explored to discover, redesign, and enhance their production and functional properties. Thus, this present review provides an up-to-date overview of advancements in the utilization of microbial β-glucosidases as "Emerging Green Tools" in 21st-century industries. In this regard, focus was placed on the use of recombinant technology, protein engineering, and immobilization techniques targeted at improving the industrial applicability of the enzyme. Furthermore, insights were given into the recent progress made in conventional β-glucosidase production, their industrial applications, as well as the current commercial status-with a focus on the patents.

Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review

BACKGROUND

Photoaging is a process of the architecture of normal skin damaged by ultraviolet radiation. Topical cosmeceuticals have been used to treat this condition. The authors aimed to understand the mechanism and level of evidence of different commonly used cosmeceuticals used to treat photodamaged skin.

OBJECTIVE

A range of commonly used topical cosmeceuticals (botanicals, peptides, and hydroquinone) has been used in cosmetic medicine for many years to treat photodamaged skin. This review article compares their efficacy and level of evidence.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

This study was a systematic review to evaluate the efficacy of different topical cosmeceuticals. Keywords including "Photoaging," "Azelaic acid," "Soy," "Green Tea," "Chamomile," "Ginkgo," "Tea Tree Oil," "Resveratrol," "Cucumber," "Ginseng," "Centella asiatica," "Licorice Root," "Aloe Vera," "Peptides," "Argireline," "Hydroquinone," were typed on OVID, PUBMED, MEDLINE for relevant studies published on photoaging treatment.

RESULTS

Most of the evidence behind cosmeceuticals is of high-quality ranging from Level I to Level II. In particular, the evidence base behind peptides is the strongest with most studies achieving Level Ib status in the evidence hierarchy.

CONCLUSION

Topical cosmeceuticals like botanicals, peptides and hydroquinone can effectively treat photodamaged skin.

Mechanism, Formulation, and Efficacy Evaluation of Natural Products for Skin Pigmentation Treatment

Skin pigmentation typically arises from the excessive secretion and accumulation of melanin, resulting in a darker complexion compared to normal skin. Currently, the local application of chemical drugs is a first-line strategy for pigmentation disorders, but the safety and efficacy of drugs still cannot meet clinical treatment needs. For long-term and safe medication, researchers have paid attention to natural products with higher biocompatibility. This article begins by examining the pathogenesis and treatment approaches of skin pigmentation diseases and summarizes the research progress and mechanism of natural products with lightening or whitening effects that are clinically common or experimentally proven. Moreover, we outline the novel formulations of natural products in treating pigmentation disorders, including liposomes, nanoparticles, microemulsions, microneedles, and tocosomes. Finally, the pharmacodynamic evaluation methods in the study of pigmentation disorder were first systematically analyzed. In brief, this review aims to collect natural products for skin pigmentation treatment and investigate their formulation design and efficacy evaluation to provide insights for the development of new products for this complex skin disease.

Denovo Production of Resveratrol by Engineered Rice Wine Strain Saccharomyces cerevisiae HJ08 and Its Application in Rice Wine Brewing

Resveratrol is a plant-derived polyphenolic compound with numerous biological activities and health-promoting properties. Rice wine is a popular traditional alcoholic beverage made from fermented rice grains, and widely consumed in Asia. To develop resveratrol-enriched rice wine, a heterologous resveratrol biosynthesis pathway was established by integrating the 4-coumaroyl-CoA ligase (Pc4CL) and the stilbene synthase (VvSTS) from Petroselinum crispum and Vitis vinifera at the δ locus sites of industrial rice wine strains Saccharomyces cerevisiae HJ. The resulting S. cerevisiae HJ01 produced a level of 0.6 ± 0.01 mg/L resveratrol. Next, the resveratrol production was increased 16.25-fold through employing the fused protein Pc4CL::VvSTS with a rigidly linked peptide (TPTP, EAAAK). Then, the strains were further modified by removing feedback inhibition of tyrosine through point mutation of ARO4 and ARO7, which integrated at the rDNA region of strain HJ03, and generated strain HJ06, HJ07, and HJ08. Subsequently, the highest resveratrol titer (34.22 ± 3.62 mg/L) was obtained by optimizing fermentation time and precursor addition amount. Finally, resveratrol content of rice wine fermented with strain HJ08 was 2.04 ± 0.08 mg/L and 1.45 ± 0.06 mg/L with or without the addition of 400 mg/L tyrosine after 7 days fermentation.

Advances in the role of resveratrol and its mechanism of action in common gynecological tumors

The incidence of common gynecological malignancies remains high, with current treatments facing multiple limitations and adverse effects. Thus, continuing the search for safe and effective oncologic treatment strategies continues. Resveratrol (RES), a natural non-flavonoid polyphenolic compound, is widely found in various plants and fruits, such as grapes, Reynoutria japonica Houtt., peanuts, and berries. RES possesses diverse biological properties, including neuroprotective, antitumor, anti-inflammatory, and osteoporosis inhibition effects. Notably, RES is broadly applicable in antitumor therapy, particularly for treating gynecological tumors (cervical, endometrial, and ovarian carcinomas). RES exerts antitumor effects by promoting tumor cell apoptosis, inhibiting cell proliferation, invasion, and metastasis, regulating tumor cell autophagy, and enhancing the efficacy of antitumor drugs while minimizing their toxic side effects. However, comprehensive reviews on the role of RES in combating gynecological tumors and its mechanisms of action are lacking. This review aims to fill this gap by examining the RES antitumor mechanisms of action in gynecological tumors, providing valuable insights for clinical treatment.

Exploring Phenolic Compounds in Crop By-Products for Cosmetic Efficacy

Phenolic compounds represent a group of secondary metabolites that serve essential functions in plants. Beyond their positive impact on plants, these phenolic metabolites, often referred to as polyphenols, possess a range of biological properties that can promote skin health. Scientific research indicates that topically using phenolics derived from plants can be advantageous, but their activity and stability highly depend on storage of the source material and the extraction method. These compounds have the ability to relieve symptoms and hinder the progression of different skin diseases. Because they come from natural sources and have minimal toxicity, phenolic compounds show potential in addressing the causes and effects of skin aging, skin diseases, and various types of skin damage, such as wounds and burns. Hence, this review provides extensive information on the particular crops from which by-product phenolic compounds can be sourced, also emphasizing the need to conduct research according to proper plant material storage practices and the choice of the best extracting method, along with an examination of their specific functions and the mechanisms by which they act to protect skin.

A mechanistic insight into the anticancer potentials of resveratrol: Current perspectives

Resveratrol is a widely recognized polyphenolic phytochemical found in various plants and their fruits, such as peanuts, grapes, and berry fruits. It is renowned for its several health advantages. The phytochemical is well known for its anticancer properties, and a substantial amount of clinical evidence has also established its promise as a chemotherapeutic agent. This study focuses on assessing the anticancer properties of resveratrol and gaining insight into the underlying molecular mechanisms. It also evaluates the biopharmaceutical, toxicological characteristics, and clinical utilization of resveratrol to determine its suitability for further development as a reliable anticancer agent. Therefore, the information about preclinical and clinical studies was collected from different electronic databases up-to-date (2018-2023). Findings from this study revealed that resveratrol has potent therapeutic benefits against various cancers involving different molecular mechanisms, such as induction of oxidative stress, cytotoxicity, inhibition of cell migration and invasion, autophagy, arresting of the S phase of the cell cycle, apoptotic, anti-angiogenic, and antiproliferative effects by regulating different molecular pathways including PI3K/AKT, p38/MAPK/ERK, NGFR-AMPK-mTOR, and so on. However, the compound has poor oral bioavailability due to reduced absorption; this limitation is overcome by applying nanotechnology (nanoformulation of resveratrol). Clinical application also showed therapeutic benefits in several types of cancer with no serious adverse effects. We suggest additional extensive studies to further check the efficacy, safety, and long-term hazards. This could involve a larger number of clinical samples to establish the compound as a reliable drug in the treatment of cancer.

Bioactive Compounds from Medicinal Plants as Potential Adjuvants in the Treatment of Mild Acne Vulgaris

In recent years, there has been a growing interest in the use of medicinal plants and phytochemicals as potential treatments for acne vulgaris. This condition, characterized by chronic inflammation, predominantly affects adolescents and young adults. Conventional treatment typically targets the key factors contributing to its development: the proliferation of Cutibacterium acnes and the associated inflammation. However, these treatments often involve the use of potent drugs. As a result, the exploration of herbal medicine as a complementary approach has emerged as a promising strategy. By harnessing the therapeutic properties of medicinal plants and phytochemicals, it may be possible to address acne vulgaris while minimizing the reliance on strong drugs. This approach not only offers potential benefits for individuals seeking alternative treatments but also underscores the importance of natural remedies of plant origin in dermatological care. The primary aim of this study was to assess the antimicrobial, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory properties of plants and their phytochemical constituents in the management of mild acne vulgaris. A comprehensive search of scientific databases was conducted from 2018 to September 2023. The findings of this review suggest that medicinal plants and their phytochemical components hold promise as treatments for mild acne vulgaris. However, it is crucial to note that further research employing high-quality evidence and standardized methodologies is essential to substantiate their efficacy and safety profiles.

Beverage consumption and facial skin aging: Evidence from Mendelian randomization analysis

BACKGROUND

Observational studies have linked coffee, alcohol, tea, and sugar-sweetened beverage (SSB) consumption to facial skin aging. However, confounding factors may influence these studies. The present two-sample Mendelian randomization (MR) investigated the potential causal association between beverage consumption and facial skin aging.

METHODS

The single-nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) associated with coffee, alcohol, and tea intake were derived from the IEU project. The SSB-associated SNPs were selected from a genome-wide association study (GWAS). Data on facial skin aging were derived from the largest GWAS involving 16 677 European individuals. The inverse variance-weighted (IVW) was the main MR analysis method, supplemented by other methods (MR-Egger, weighted median, simple mode, and weighted mode). The MR-Egger intercept analysis was used for sensitivity analysis. Moreover, we conducted a replication analysis using data from another GWAS dataset on coffee consumption to validate our findings.

RESULTS

Four instrumental variables (IVs) sets were used to examine the causal association between beverage consumption (coffee, alcohol, tea, SSB) and facial skin aging. Our results revealed that genetically predicted higher coffee consumption reduced the risk of facial skin aging (OR: 0.852; 95% CI: 0.753-0.964; p = 0.011, IVW method). The sensitivity analysis confirmed the robustness of the findings, with no evidence of pleiotropy or heterogeneity. The results of replicated MR analysis on coffee consumption were consistent with the initial analysis (OR = 0.997; 95% CI = 0.996-0.999; p = 0.003, IVW method).

CONCLUSIONS

This study manifests that higher coffee consumption is significantly associated with a reduced risk of facial skin aging. These findings can offer novel strategies for identifying the underlying etiology of facial skin aging.

Evaluation of the in vitro human skin percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen in topical anhydrous and aqueous gels

BACKGROUND

Ketoprofen is a nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drug used for the treatment of acute and chronic pain associated with inflammatory conditions. This study aims to evaluate the in vitro percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen 10% formulated in proprietary anhydrous and aqueous gels using the Franz skin finite dose model.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The anhydrous gel was initially characterized for cytotoxicity using EpiDerm skin tissue model by cell proliferation assay and Western blot analysis. The Ultra Performance Liquid Chromatography method for measuring ketoprofen was validated and the stability of ketoprofen 10% in the anhydrous gel formulation was evaluated at 5°C and 25°C for 181 days. The percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen was determined using donated human skin. The tissue sections were mounted within Franz diffusion cells. A variable finite dose of each ketoprofen formulation in either anhydrous or aqueous gel was applied to the skin sections and receptor solutions were collected at various time points.

RESULTS

Cell proliferation assay showed minimal cell death when EpiDerm skin tissue was exposed to the anhydrous gel for 24 h; the levels of protein markers of cell proliferation were not affected after 17-h exposure. Ketoprofen was stable in the anhydrous gel when stored at 5°C and 25°C. When compounded in the anhydrous and aqueous gels, ketoprofen had mean flux rate of 2.22 and 2.50 μg/cm2 /h, respectively, after 48 h. The drug was distributed to the epidermis and dermis sections of the skin. Both the anhydrous and aqueous gels facilitated the percutaneous absorption of ketoprofen without statistically significant differences.

CONCLUSION

The anhydrous gel can be used as a base to facilitate the transdermal delivery of ketoprofen. Although the anhydrous and aqueous gels can deliver a similar amount of ketoprofen, the anhydrous gel (water activity below 0.6) allows for extended default beyond-use-date of compounding preparations.

Screening of Key Components for Melanogenesis Inhibition of Polygonum cuspidatum Extract Based on the Spectrum-Effect Relationship and Molecular Docking

Polygonum cuspidatum (PC) extract has been listed in the "Catalog of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (2021 Edition)", which can inhibit melanogenesis, thus exerting a whitening effect, and has been widely used in cosmetics. However, there are currently no quality standards for PC extract used in cosmetics, and the bioactive components associated with anti-melanogenesis remain unclear. In view of this, the present study was the first to investigate the spectrum-effect relationship between fingerprints of PC extract and melanogenesis inhibition. Ten batches of PC extract fingerprints were established by HPLC. Pearson's correlation analysis, gray correlation analysis (GRA) and orthogonal partial least squares regression analysis (OPLSR) were used to screen out resveratrol, emodin and physcion as the main whitening active ingredients using the inhibition of tyrosinase in B16F10 cells as the pharmacological index. Then, the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of the above three components were verified by tyrosinase inhibition and a melanin content assay in B16F10 cells. The interaction between small molecules and proteins was investigated by the molecular docking method, and it was confirmed by quantitative real-time PCR (qRT-PCR) that resveratrol, emodin and physcion significantly down-regulated the transcript levels of melanogenesis-related factors. In conclusion, this study established a general model combining HPLC fingerprinting and melanogenesis inhibition and also analyzed the spectrum-effect relationship of PC extract, which provided theoretical support for the quality control of PC extract in whitening cosmetics.

Brassica oleracea L. var. italica Aquaporin Reconstituted Proteoliposomes as Nanosystems for Resveratrol Encapsulation

Aquaporins (AQPs), membrane proteins responsible for facilitating water transport, found in plant membrane vesicles (MV), have been related to the functionality and stability of MV. We focused on AQPs obtained from broccoli, as they show potential for biotechnological applications. To gain further insight into the role of AQPs in MV, we describe the heterologous overexpression of two broccoli AQPs (BoPIP1;2 and BoPIP2;2) in Pichia pastoris, resulting in their purification with high yield (0.14 and 0.99 mg per gram cells for BoPIP1;2 and BoPIP2;2). We reconstituted AQPs in liposomes to study their functionality, and the size of proteoliposomes did not change concerning liposomes. BoPIP2;2 facilitated water transport, which was preserved for seven days at 4 °C and at room temperature but not at 37 °C. BoPIP2;2 was incorporated into liposomes to encapsulate a resveratrol extract, resulting in increased entrapment efficiency (EE) compared to conventional liposomes. Molecular docking was utilized to identify binding sites in PIP2s for resveratrol, highlighting the role of aquaporins in the improved EE. Moreover, interactions between plant AQP and human integrin were shown, which may increase internalization by the human target cells. Our results suggest AQP-based alternative encapsulation systems can be used in specifically targeted biotechnological applications.

An extensive review on phenolic compounds and their potential estrogenic properties on skin physiology

Polyphenolic compounds constitute a diverse group of natural components commonly occurring in various plant species, known for their potential to exert both beneficial and detrimental effects. Additionally, these polyphenols have also been implicated as endocrine-disrupting (ED) chemicals, raising concerns about their widespread use in the cosmetics industry. In this comprehensive review, we focus on the body of literature pertaining to the estrogenic properties of ED chemicals, with a particular emphasis on the interaction of isoflavones with estrogen receptors. Within this review, we aim to elucidate the multifaceted roles and effects of polyphenols on the skin, exploring their potential benefits as well as their capacity to act as ED agents. By delving into this intricate subject matter, we intend to provoke thoughtful consideration, effectively opening a Pandora's box of questions for the reader to ponder. Ultimately, we invite the reader to contemplate whether polyphenols should be regarded as friends or foes in the realm of skincare and endocrine disruption.

Effects of antioxidants on skin hydration, inflammatory cytokines, and keratinocyte differentiation markers in a PM10-exposed skin barrier-disrupted mouse model

Given that particulate matter (PM) has an established role in inducing oxidative stress, inflammation, and skin aging, it is plausible that PM could exacerbate inflammatory skin conditions such as xerosis. Xerosis represents a significant dermatological concern among older adults within aging populations. We conducted an investigation into the efficacy of antioxidants, such as dieckol, punicalagin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and resveratrol, against PM10 in a skin barrier-disrupted mouse model. A skin barrier-disrupted mouse model was induced by tape stripping. This study investigated the antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties of antioxidants on PM-induced changes using the skin barrier-disrupted mouse model. Tape strips were attached to the back of 7-week-old nude mice and removed quickly. To investigate variations in skin hydration, levels of inflammatory cytokines, and indicators of keratinocyte differentiation, mice underwent treatment with several compounds: a control vehicle (100 μL), PM10 100 μL (100 μg/mL), PM10 100 μL (100 μg/mL) with antioxidants 100 μL (Punicalagin 5 μM, Dieckol 5 μM, EGCG 1 μM, resveratol 1 μM) for 1 week. To assess their effects, different analysis were conducted using measurements of skin moisture, real-time polymerase chain reaction, enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay for detecting inflammatory cytokines, and immunofluorescence staining to identify markers of keratinocyte differentiation. While PM10 decreased water content in disrupted skin, all antioxidants preserved skin hydration in the skin barrier-disrupted mice, regardless of the presence of PM10. All antioxidants also inhibited the upregulation of inflammatory cytokines, such as interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-4, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor necrosis factor-alpha and normalized the downregulation of keratinocyte differentiation markers against PM10 in skin barrier-disrupted mice. This study elucidated the protective effects of antioxidants-namely, punicalagin, dieckol, EGCG, and resveratrol-in mitigating the impact of PM10 on skin barrier integrity and inflammation in a disrupted skin barrier mouse model, highlighting their potential utility in dermatological treatments.

Anti-aging Strategies and Topical Delivery of Biopolymer-based Nanocarriers for Skin Cancer Treatment

Environmental factors like UV radiation and epigenetic changes are significant factors for skin cancer that trigger early aging. This review provides essential information on cancer development concerning aging, the receptors involved, and the therapeutic targets. Biopolymers like polysaccharide, polyphenols, proteins, and nucleic acid plays a vital role in the regulation of normal cell homeostasis. Therefore, it is pertinent to explore the role of biopolymers as antiaging formulations and the possibility of these formulations being used against cancer via topical administrations. As UV radiation is one of the predominant factors in causing skin cancer, the association of receptors between aging and cancer indicated that insulin receptor, melatonin receptor, toll-like receptor, SIRT 1 receptor, tumor-specific T cell receptor and mitochondria-based targeting could be used to direct therapeutics for suppression of cancer and prevent aging. Biopolymer-based nanoformulations have tremendously progressed by entrapment of drugs like curcumin and resveratrol which can prevent cancer and aging simultaneously. Certain protein signaling or calcium and ROS signaling pathways are different for cancer and aging. The involvement of mitochondrial DNA mutation along with telomere shortening with a change in cellular energetics leading to genomic instability in the aging process can also induce mitochondrial dysfunction and epigenetic alterations leading to skin cancer. Therefore, the use of biopolymers as a topical supplement during the aging process can result in the prevention of cancer.

Evaluation and treatment of metabolic syndrome and cardiovascular disease in adult patients with psoriasis

Psoriasis is strongly associated with cardiovascular disease (CVD) and metabolic syndrome, with patients having an approximately twofold increased risk of each compared to the general population. This increased risk is based on shared underlying genetic and cytokine profiles, as well as similar environmental risks. Many screening guidelines do not address the development of CVD and metabolic syndrome in these predisposed patients. These deficits are evidenced by the exclusion of psoriasis as a risk factor in validated 10-year CVD risk calculators for adult patients with chronic inflammatory diseases, as well as insufficient screening guidelines for insulin resistance in patients with psoriasis. This manuscript aims to discuss and propose allopathic and lifestyle recommendations for the screening and management of the aforementioned comorbidities in adult patients with psoriasis.

Nonclinical evaluation of a Vitis vinifera extract towards a novel antiaging cosmetic ingredient

BACKGROUND

Skin aging is regulated by multiple physiological processes, such as oxidative stress. Natural products have been considered as a promising source of antioxidant compounds. As a result, few innovative products on the market based on natural products tackle additional underlying mechanisms of skin aging.

AIMS

The present work reports the nonclinical evaluation of a novel extract from the skin of V. vinifera fruits (codified as ACH37 extract), with the aim of supporting its use as an antiaging cosmetic ingredient candidate in clinical trials.

METHODS

We employed enzymatic, phenotypic, and gene expression assays, both in vitro and ex vivo, to investigate the action of the ACH37 extract in different biological processes that could be related to skin aging mechanisms.

RESULTS

The ACH37 extract was able to scavenge reactive oxygen species (DPPH, O2 - ), prevent inflammation (LPS- and UV-induced COX-2, IL-1β, and IL-8 expression), modulate extracellular matrix remodeling (inhibiting elastase, MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-12, as well as associated expression), increase telomere length, telomerase activity, and reverse the UV-induced suppression of genes involved in skin protection. In addition, the ACH37 extract permeated human skin explants and presented antioxidant efficacy ex vivo.

CONCLUSION

The results indicated that the ACH37 extract acts on multiple targets commonly related to skin aging, being a promising antiaging active ingredient candidate to be further investigated in clinical trials.

Resveratrol and Its Derivatives in Inflammatory Skin Disorders-Atopic Dermatitis and Psoriasis: A Review

Atopic dermatitis (AD) and psoriasis are inflammatory skin diseases whose prevalence has increased worldwide in recent decades. These disorders contribute to patients' decreased quality of life (QoL) and constitute a socioeconomic burden. New therapeutic options for AD and psoriasis based on natural compounds are being investigated. These include resveratrol (3,5,40-trihydroxystilbene) and its derivatives, which are produced by many plant species, including grapevines. Resveratrol has gained interest since the term "French Paradox", which refers to improved cardiovascular outcomes despite a high-fat diet in the French population, was introduced. Resveratrol and its derivatives have demonstrated various health benefits. In addition to anti-cancer, anti-aging, and antibacterial effects, there are also anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects that can affect the molecular pathways of inflammatory skin disorders. A comprehensive understanding of these mechanisms may help develop new therapies. Numerous in vivo and in vitro studies have been conducted on the therapeutic properties of natural compounds. However, regarding resveratrol and its derivatives in treating AD and psoriasis, there are still many unexplained mechanisms and a need for clinical trials. Considering this, in this review, we discuss and summarize the most critical research on resveratrol and its derivatives in animal and cell models mimicking AD and psoriasis.

The PI3K-Akt-mTOR and Associated Signaling Pathways as Molecular Drivers of Immune-Mediated Inflammatory Skin Diseases: Update on Therapeutic Strategy Using Natural and Synthetic Compounds

The dysregulated phosphatidylinositol-3-kinase (PI3K)-Akt-mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) signaling pathway has been implicated in various immune-mediated inflammatory and hyperproliferative dermatoses such as acne, atopic dermatitis, alopecia, psoriasis, wounds, and vitiligo, and is associated with poor treatment outcomes. Improved comprehension of the consequences of the dysregulated PI3K/Akt/mTOR pathway in patients with inflammatory dermatoses has resulted in the development of novel therapeutic approaches. Nonetheless, more studies are necessary to validate the regulatory role of this pathway and to create more effective preventive and treatment methods for a wide range of inflammatory skin diseases. Several studies have revealed that certain natural products and synthetic compounds can obstruct the expression/activity of PI3K/Akt/mTOR, underscoring their potential in managing common and persistent skin inflammatory disorders. This review summarizes recent advances in understanding the role of the activated PI3K/Akt/mTOR pathway and associated components in immune-mediated inflammatory dermatoses and discusses the potential of bioactive natural products, synthetic scaffolds, and biologic agents in their prevention and treatment. However, further research is necessary to validate the regulatory role of this pathway and develop more effective therapies for inflammatory skin disorders.

Nanotechnology-Based Topical Delivery of Natural Products for the Management of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic eczematous inflammatory disease that may arise from environmental, genetic, and immunological factors. Despite the efficacy of current treatment options such as corticosteroids, such approaches are mainly focused on symptom relief and may present certain undesirable side effects. In recent years, isolated natural compounds, oils, mixtures, and/or extracts have gained scientific attention because of their high efficiency and moderate to low toxicity. Despite their promising therapeutic effects, the applicability of such natural healthcare solutions is somewhat limited by their instability, poor solubility, and low bioavailability. Therefore, novel nanoformulation-based systems have been designed to overcome these limitations, thus enhancing the therapeutic potential, by promoting the capacity of these natural drugs to properly exert their action in AD-like skin lesions. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first literature review that has focused on summarizing recent nanoformulation-based solutions loaded with natural ingredients, specifically for the management of AD. We suggest that future studies should focus on robust clinical trials that may confirm the safety and effectiveness of such natural-based nanosystems, thus paving the way for more reliable AD treatments.

Customizable Resveratrol Spray-dried Micro-composites for Inhalation as a Promising Contender for Treatment of Idiopathic Pulmonary Fibrosis

The past decades have witnessed tremendous expansion in utilization of plant-derived medicines as resveratrol (RES) in treating several diseases like idiopathic pulmonary fibrosis (IPF). RES can exhibit its role in treating IPF via its outstanding antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. The goal of this work was to formulate RES-loaded spray-dried composite microparticles (SDCMs) suitable for pulmonary delivery via dry powder inhaler (DPI). They were prepared by spray drying of a previously prepared RES-loaded bovine serum albumin nanoparticles (BSA NPs) dispersion using different carriers. RES-loaded BSA NPs, prepared by the desolvation technique, acquired suitable particle size of 177.67±0.95 nm and entrapment efficiency of 98.7±0.35% with perfectly uniform size distribution and high stability. Considering the attributes of the pulmonary route, NPs were co-spray dried with compatible carriers viz. mannitol, dextran, trehalose, leucine, glycine, aspartic acid, and glutamic acid to fabricate SDCMs. All formulations showed suitable mass median aerodynamic diameter less than 5 µm; that is suitable for deep lung deposition. However, the best aerosolization behavior was attained from using leucine with fine particle fraction (FPF) of 75.74%, followed by glycine with FPF of 54.7%. Finally, a pharmacodynamic study was conducted on bleomycin-induced mice, and it strongly revealed the role of the optimized formulations in alleviating PF through suppressing the levels of hydroxyproline, tumor necrosis factor-α and matrix metalloproteinase-9 with obvious improvements in the treated lung histopathology. These findings indicate that in addition to leucine, the glycine amino acid, which is not commonly used yet, is very promising in the formulation of DPIs.

Fabrication of polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90/Eudragit RL100-based dissolving microneedle patches loaded with alpha-arbutin and resveratrol for skin depigmentation

Alpha-arbutin (AA) and resveratrol (Res) are widely used in skin-lightening products. However, current topical formulations have minimal skin-lightening effects due to the low absorption and poor solubility of these active compounds. This study investigated the efficacy and safety of using dissolving microneedle (DMN) patches to improve the delivery of AA and Res for skin depigmentation. The DMN patches (F0-F3) fabricated from polyvinyl pyrrolidone-K90 (PVP-K90)/Eudragit RL100 blends successfully penetrated excised porcine skin and showed sufficient mechanical strength to resist compression forces. Loading DMNs with 10% AA and 2% Res at a ratio of 5 : 1 (F3) resulted in a synergistic interaction between the drugs with desirable dissolving ability, drug loading, and stability. Furthermore, both in vitro and in vivo studies revealed that the use of F3 DMN patches successfully enhanced the intradermal delivery of AA and Res over a 24 h period, with the delivered amount being higher (∼2.6 times) than that provided by a cream formulation (P < 0.05). After removing the DMN patches, the mice's skin was spontaneously and completely resealed within 12 h. In clinical studies, F3 DMN patches slightly decreased the melanin index of the participants without causing skin irritation or erythema at any time during the 24 h period when the patches were applied (P < 0.05). Moreover, application of the patches for 24 h was not found to affect skin hydration, transepidermal water loss, or skin elasticity. Therefore, AA/Res-loaded DMN patches could offer a promising approach for the effective local delivery of cosmetic agents for skin depigmentation.

Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility

Two Helichrysum italicum extracts, OPT-1 (rich in phenolic acids) and OPT-2 (rich in total phenols and flavonoids), were prepared using hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-β-CD)-assisted extraction. The prepared extracts were rich in phenolic compounds, including flavonoids and phenolic acids. GC-MS analysis of the extracts identified neryl acetate, neo-intermedeol, β-selinene, γ-curcumene, italidione I, and nerol as the main volatile components of the extracts, as well as plant sterols, γ-sitosterol, campesterol, and stigmasterol. The antioxidant (DPPH radical scavenging, reducing power, and a carotene linoleic acid assay) and cosmeceutical (anti-hyaluronidase, anti-tyrosinase, anti-lipoxygenase, ovalbumin anti-coagulation, and a UV-absorption assay) activity of the extracts in most of the assays was better than the activity of the applied positive controls. Especially low were the IC50 values of the extracts in the anti-hyaluronidase (14.31 ± 0.29 μL extract/mL and 19.82 ± 1.53 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) and the anti-lipoxygenase (0.96 ± 0.11 μL extract/mL and 1.07 ± 0.01 μL extract/mL for OPT-1 and OPT-2, respectively) assays. The extracts were non-toxic to HaCaT cells in concentrations of up to 62.5 µL extract/mL assuring their status as excellent candidates for cosmeceutical product development appropriate for direct use in cosmetic products without solvent evaporation.

Systematic Study of Resveratrol Nanoliposomes Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Anti-Aging and Skin-Brightening Efficacy

Due to the stratum corneum barrier, resveratrol is difficult to be absorbed transdermally, limiting its anti-aging and skin-brightening effects. Furthermore, there is a lack of systematic studies on the efficacy of resveratrol in human skin, especially in three-dimensional skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we encapsulated resveratrol into nanoliposomes using the high-pressure homogenization method to develop an efficient transdermal drug delivery system, and systematically evaluated its anti-aging and skin-brightening efficacy via cell line models, a three-dimensional skin model and human skin. The resveratrol nanoliposomes effectively improved the transdermal penetration and retention of resveratrol and enhanced cellular uptake. In addition, compared to free resveratrol, resveratrol nanoliposomes remarkably enhanced the skin-care effects by promoting the antioxidant capacity and collagen synthesis, inhibiting the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosine activity and melanin synthesis. Notably, human clinical trials proved the anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening effectiveness of resveratrol nanoliposomes. Three levels of systematic studies indicated that resveratrol nanoliposomes could be a promising transdermal drug delivery system to enhance the anti-aging and skin-brightening effects of resveratrol.

Extraction Optimization, Antioxidant, Cosmeceutical and Wound Healing Potential of Echinacea purpurea Glycerolic Extracts

Echinacea purpurea is a plant with immunomodulating properties, often used in topical preparations for treatment of small superficial wounds. In the presented study, the best conditions for ultrasound-assisted extraction of caffeic acid derivatives (caftaric and cichoric acid) (TPA-opt extract), as well as the conditions best suited for preparation of the extract with high radical scavenging activity (RSA-opt extract), from E. purpurea aerial parts were determined. A Box-Behnken design based on glycerol content (%, w/w), temperature (°C), ultrasonication power (W) and time (min) as independent variables was performed. Antioxidant, antiaging and wound healing effects of the two prepared extracts were evaluated. The results demonstrate that glycerol extraction is a fast and efficient method for preparation of the extracts with excellent radical scavenging, Fe²⁺ chelating and antioxidant abilities. Furthermore, the extracts demonstrated notable collagenase, elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory activity, indicating their antiaging properties. Well-pronounced hyaluronidase-inhibitory activities, with IC₅₀ values lower than 30 μL extract/mL, as well as the ability to promote scratch closure in HaCaT keratinocyte monolayers, even in concentrations as low as 2.5 μL extract/mL (for RSA-opt), demonstrate promising wound healing effects of E. purpurea. The fact that the investigated extracts were prepared using glycerol, a non-toxic and environmentally friendly solvent, widely used in cosmetics, makes them suitable for direct use in specialized cosmeceutical formulations.

Biotechnological Approach to Increase Oxyresveratrol Production in Mulberry In Vitro Plants under Elicitation

Morus alba L. is used for a range of therapeutic purposes in Asian traditional medicine, and its extracts are reported to be effective against lipidemia, diabetes, and obesity, as well as being hepatoprotective and tyrosinase-inhibitory. They are also included in cosmetic products as anti-aging and skin-whitening agents. Stilbenes, the major bioactive compounds found in M. alba, have received renewed attention recently because of their putative activity against COVID-19. In this study M. alba plants were established in vitro, and the effect of elicitation on plant growth and stilbene accumulation, specifically oxyresveratrol and trans-resveratrol, was investigated. Different concentrations of the elicitors including methyl jasmonate and cyclodextrins were applied, and stilbene levels were determined in leaves, roots, and the culture medium. Elicitation of the M. alba plants with 5 mM cyclodextrins, alone or in combination with 10 µM methyl jasmonate, significantly increased the total phenolic content in the culture medium and leaves after 7 days of treatment. The higher total phenolic content in the roots of control plants and those treated only with methyl jasmonate indicated that cyclodextrins promoted metabolite release to the culture medium. Notably, the cyclodextrin-treated plants with the highest levels of oxy- and trans-resveratrol also had the highest total phenolic content and antioxidant capacity. These results indicate that elicited M. alba in vitro plants constitute a promising alternative source of bioactive stilbenes to supply pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries.

Chemopreventive and Anticancer Role of Resveratrol against Oral Squamous Cell Carcinoma

Oral squamous cell carcinoma (OSCC) is one of the most prevailing and aggressive head and neck cancers, featuring high morbidity and mortality. The available conventional treatments suffer from several adverse effects and are often inefficient in terms of their survival rates. Thus, seeking novel therapeutic agents and adjuvants is of the utmost importance for modern society. Natural polyphenolic compounds have recently emerged as promising chemopreventive and anticancer agents. Specifically, the natural compound resveratrol (RSV) has recently gained momentum for this purpose. RSV is useful for treating OSCC due to its antiproliferative, antimetastatic, and proapoptotic effects. Additionally, RSV acts against tumor cells while synergically cooperating with chemotherapeutics, overcoming drug resistance phenomena. Despite these wide-spectrum effects, there are few specific investigations regarding RSV's effects against OSCC animal models that consider different routes and vehicles for the administration of RSV. Interestingly, an injectable RSV-loaded liposome-based formulation was proven to be effective against both in vitro and in vivo OSCC models, demonstrating that the development of RSV-loaded drug delivery systems for systemic and/or loco-regional applications may be the turning point in oral cancer treatment, leading to benefits from both RSV's properties as well as from targeted delivery. Given these premises, this review offers a comprehensive overview of the in vitro and in vivo effects of RSV and its main derivative, polydatin (PD), against OSCC-related cell lines and animal models, aiming to guide the scientific community in regard to RSV and PD use in the treatment of oral precancerous and cancerous lesions.

Evaluation of the Phytochemistry-Therapeutic Activity Relationship for Grape Seeds Oil

Seeds' abundant biologically active compounds make them a suitable primary platform for the production of natural extracts, innovative foods, medicines, and cosmetics. High levels of industrial and agricultural residues and byproducts are generated during the processing of grapes, although some parts can also be repurposed. This paper examines the phytochemical composition, manufacturing processes, and health-improving attributes of many varieties of grape oil derived using various extraction methods. Since the results are influenced by a range of factors, they are expressed differently among studies, and the researchers employ a variety of measuring units, making it difficult to convey the results. The primary topics covered in most papers are grape seed oil's lipophilic fatty acids, tocopherols, and phytosterols. In addition, new methods for extracting grape seed oil should therefore be designed; these methods must be affordable, energy-efficient, and environmentally friendly in order to increase the oil's quality by extracting bioactive components and thereby increasing its biological activity in order to become part of the overall management of multiple diseases.

Glycerol and Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents Extraction for Preparation of Luteolin-Rich Jasione montana Extracts with Cosmeceutical Activity

Jasione montana is a plant from the family Campanulaceae rich in phenols with health-beneficial properties such as luteolin (LUT) derivatives. In this work, a glycerol-based ultrasound-assisted extraction method was developed and optimized for in total phenol (TP) and LUT content, as well as antiradical activity (RSA). The best conditions (glycerol content, temperature, plant material weight, and ultrasonication power) for the preparation of J. montana extracts richest in TP (OPT-TP), LUT (OPT-LUT), and having the best RSA (OPT-RSA) were determined. Furthermore, numerous natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES), containing proline, glycerol, betaine, urea, and glucose were prepared and used for the extraction of J. montana. Contents of TP, LUT, and RSA in the prepared extracts were established. Antioxidant and cosmeceutical activity of the prepared extracts was tested. The OPT-TP, OPT-LUT, and OPT-RSA, as well as the most efficient NADES-based extract, PG-50-TP, were excellent antioxidants and Fe²⁺ ion chelators. In addition, they were potent inhibitors of collagenase and hyaluronidase, as well as good significant anti-elastase and -lipoxygenase activity. The observed antioxidant- and enzyme-inhibiting activity of J. montana extracts prepared using environmentally friendly methods and non-toxic solvents makes them promising ingredients of cosmeceutical products.

Screening and Evaluation of Dermo-Cosmetic Activities of the Invasive Plant Species Polygonum cuspidatum

Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum) is among the world's most problematic invasive plant species with negative ecological, socio-economic and security consequences. Management operations in areas invaded systematically generate a large quantity of plant waste, most often without outlets. Using this plant material could constitute a new alternative treatment for sustainable management. P. cuspidatum is well known to have numerous biological properties, containing notably stilbenes, quinones, flavonoids and phenolic acids. The present work proposes a reliable strategy using powerful techniques for the screening and the evaluation of the dermo-cosmetic potential of its aerial parts (AP) and root parts (RP). To the best of our knowledge, only antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities were previously evaluated on P. cuspidatum among the targets studied (superoxide dismutase, hyaluronidase, elastase, collagenase and tyrosinase). The results revealed strong antioxidant and anti-collagenase activities, moderate anti-hyaluronidase activity, while weak anti-elastase and anti-tyrosinase activities were observed for ethanolic extracts. Different standards selected and screened on the same targets made it possible to correlate the observed residual activities of produced extracts of P. cuspidatum from Savoie Mont Blanc and their chemical compositions. A structure-activity study was thus conducted on main molecular families, widely represented in the genus Polygonum.

Exosomes based advancements for application in medical aesthetics

Beauty is an eternal pursuit of all people. Wound repair, anti-aging, inhibiting hyperpigmentation and hair loss are the main demands for medical aesthetics. At present, the repair and remodeling of human body shape and function in medical aesthetics are often achieved by injection of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and botulinum toxin, stem cell therapy. However, there are some challenges, such as difficulty controlling the injection dose, abnormal local contour, increased foreign body sensation, and the risk of tumor occurrence and deformity induced by stem cell therapy. Exosomes are tiny vesicles secreted by cells, which are rich in proteins, nucleic acids and other bioactive molecules. They have the characteristics of low immunogenicity and strong tissue penetration, making them ideal for applications in medical aesthetics. However, their low yield, strong heterogeneity, and long-term preservation still hinder their application in medical aesthetics. In this review, we summarize the mechanism of action, administration methods, engineered production and preservation technologies for exosomes in medical aesthetics in recent years to further promote their research and industrialization in the field of medical aesthetics.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Effects of Natural Polyphenols on Skin and Hair Health: A Review

The skin is the largest organ of the body and plays multiple essential roles, ranging from regulating temperature, preventing infections, to ultimately affecting human health. A hair follicle is a complex cutaneous appendage. Skin diseases and hair loss have a significant effect on the quality of life and psychosocial adjustment of individuals. However, the available traditional drugs for treating skin and hair diseases may have some insufficiencies; therefore, a growing number of researchers are interested in natural materials that could achieve satisfactory results and minimize adverse effects. Natural polyphenols, named for the multiple phenolic hydroxyl groups in their structures, are promising candidates and continue to be of scientific interest due to their multifunctional biological properties and safety. Polyphenols have a wide range of pharmacological effects. In addition to the most common effect, antioxidation, polyphenols have anti-inflammatory, bacteriostatic, antitumor, and other biological effects associated with reduced risk of a number of chronic diseases. Various polyphenols have also shown efficacy against different types of skin and hair diseases, both in vitro and in vivo, via different mechanisms. Thus, this paper reviews the research progress in natural polyphenols for the protection of skin and hair health, especially focusing on their potential therapeutic mechanisms against skin and hair disorders. A deep understanding of natural polyphenols provides a new perspective for the safe treatment of skin diseases and hair loss.

Advances in Biomedical Functions of Natural Whitening Substances in the Treatment of Skin Pigmentation Diseases

Pigmentation diseases can lead to significant color differences between the affected part and the normal part, resulting in severe psychological and emotional distress among patients. The treatment of pigmentation diseases with good patient compliance is mainly in the form of topical drugs. However, conventional hydroquinone therapy contributes to several pathological conditions, such as erythema, dryness, and skin desquamation, and requires a longer treatment time to show significant results. To address these shortcomings, natural whitening substances represented by kojic acid and arbutin have gradually become the candidate ingredients of traditional local preparations due to their excellent biological safety. This review focuses on several natural whitening substances with potential therapeutic effects in pigmentation disease and their mechanisms, and a thorough discussion has been conducted into the solution methods for the challenges involved in the practical application of natural whitening substances.

Role of PI3K/Akt-Mediated Nrf2/HO-1 Signaling Pathway in Resveratrol Alleviation of Zearalenone-Induced Oxidative Stress and Apoptosis in TM4 Cells

Zearalenone (ZEA) is a common mycotoxin that induces oxidative stress (OS) and affects the male reproductive system in animals. Resveratrol (RSV) has good antioxidant activity and can activate nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor (Nrf2) to protect cells through the phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K)/protein kinase B (Akt) signaling pathway. The objective of this study was to investigate the protective effect and the mechanism of RSV on OS and apoptosis in TM4 cells induced by ZEA. Prior to being exposed to ZEA, TM4 cells were pretreated with RSV or the PI3K/Akt inhibitor LY294002. Cell viability was measured by Cell Counting Kit-8 (CCK-8) assays. Flow cytometry was used to determine the level of apoptosis and intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS). The expression of poly ADP-ribose polymerase (PARP), caspase-3, BCL2-associated X (Bax)/B-cell lymphoma-2 (Bcl-2), and PI3K/Akt-mediated Nrf2/heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1) signaling pathway-related proteins was evaluated by Western blotting. Nrf2 siRNA transfection and LY294002 treatment were used to investigate the role of the Nrf2/HO-1 and PI3K/Akt signaling pathways in RSV alleviation of ZEA-induced OS. The results showed that pretreatment with RSV significantly reduced the expression of apoptosis-related proteins and increased cell viability. Catalase (CAT) activity and glutathione (GSH) levels were also increased, whereas malondialdehyde (MDA) and ROS levels decreased (p < 0.05). RSV also upregulated Akt phosphorylation, Nrf2 nuclear translocation, and HO-1 expression under conditions of OS (p < 0.05). Transfection with Nrf2 siRNA abolished the protective effects of RSV against ZEA-induced cytotoxicity (p < 0.05), ROS accumulation (p < 0.05), and apoptosis (p < 0.05). LY294002 completely blocked the RSV-mediated increase in Nrf2 nuclear translocation (p < 0.05), HO-1 expression (p < 0.05), and cytoprotective activity (p < 0.05). Collectively, the above findings indicate that RSV can protect against ZEA-induced OS and apoptosis in TM4 cells by PI3K/Akt-mediated activation of the Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway.

Multifunctional Microspheres Based on D-Mannose and Resveratrol for Ciprofloxacin Release

This article describes the preparation, characterization, and performance evaluation of functional microspheres useful for the release of ciprofloxacin. The particles were obtained using D-mannose, a natural aldohexose sugar, and resveratrol, a powerful antioxidant. In particular, the above compounds were initially converted into D-mannose carboxylate and resveratrol methacrylate and, therefore, subjected to an esterification reaction. The resulting product was used for the preparation of the microspheres which were characterized by light scattering, FT-IR spectrophotometry and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Subsequently, their degree of bloating was evaluated at pH 1.2 to simulate the pH of the stomach, at pH 6.8 and pH 7.4 to mimic the intestinal environment. The antibiotic ciprofloxacin was then loaded into the microspheres, with an encapsulation efficiency of 100%. The cumulative amount of drug released was 55% at pH 6.8 and 99% at pH 7.4. The tests conducted to evaluate the antibacterial activity demonstrated the ability of the microspheres obtained to inhibit the growth of Escherichia coli. The antioxidant efficacy, due to the presence of resveratrol in their structure, was confirmed using rat liver microsomal membranes. The results obtained have highlighted how the microspheres based on D-mannose and resveratrol can be considered promising multifunctional vectors useful in the treatment of intestinal and urinary infections.

Recent Green Technologies in Natural Stilbenoids Production and Extraction: The Next Chapter in the Cosmetic Industry

Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated.

Evaluation of an Anhydrous Permeation-Enhancing Vehicle for Percutaneous Absorption of Hormones

The efficiency and safety of hormone delivery through the skin partly depend on the appropriate choice of vehicle and the type of formulation. The present study reports the skin cytotoxicity, irritancy, and safety of a newly developed anhydrous permeation-enhancing base (APEB) and the percutaneous absorption of progesterone, testosterone, estriol, and estradiol in APEB formulations. Using the human skin EpiDerm model, cell death was not observed after 4 h of exposure to APEB and was 48% after 24 h, indicating its mild to non-irritating property. APEB did not change the expression level of skin cell proliferation markers including PCNA, MCL-1, iNOS, and NFκB proteins, and apoptosis was minimal after 8-h exposure. The in vivo skin irritation and sensitization evaluation of APEB using a Human Repeat Insult Patch Test showed no adverse reaction of any kind during the course of the study. These results indicate the safety of APEB on skin tissues. The hormone percutaneous absorption was performed using human cadaver abdomen skin tissues and the Franz diffusion system, and hormone concentrations were determined by ELISA. Absorption was observed as early as 2 h of application and accumulated after 24 h to 2851 ± 66 ng/cm², 2338 ± 594 ng/cm², 55 ± 25 ng/cm², and 341 ± 122 ng/cm² for progesterone, testosterone, estriol, and estradiol, respectively. A steady flux rate of absorption of the hormones was observed within 24 h of application. These results suggest that APEB can be used as a vehicle to deliver these hormones through the skin and into the bloodstream for hormone replacement therapy.

Preventative Effects of Antioxidants against PM10 on Serum IgE Concentration, Mast Cell Counts, Inflammatory Cytokines, and Keratinocyte Differentiation Markers in DNCB-Induced Atopic Dermatitis Mouse Model

Particulate matter (PM) can cause oxidative stress, inflammation, and skin aging. We investigated the effects of antioxidants such as dieckol, punicalagin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), resveratrol, and Siegesbeckiae Herba extract (SHE) against PM < 10 μm (PM10) on serum IgE concentration, mast cell counts, inflammatory cytokines, and keratinocyte differentiation markers in a 2,4-Dinitrochlorobenzene (DNCB)-induced atopic dermatitis mouse model. Seven-week-old BALB/c mice were sensitized with 2% DNCB. Atopic dermatitis-like lesions were induced on the mice with 0.2% DNCB. Antioxidants and PM10 were applied to the mice for 4 weeks. PM10 increased the serum IgE concentration and spleen weight in mice, and all antioxidants downregulated these parameters. Histological examination showed an increase in epidermal thickness and mast cell counts in response to PM10, and all antioxidants showed a decrease. PM10 upregulates the expression of inflammatory cytokines, including interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-4, IL-6, IL-17α, IL-25, IL-31 and thymic stromal lymphopoietin (TSLP) in mice, and all antioxidants inhibited the upregulation of inflammatory cytokines. ELISA showed the same results as real-time PCR. PM10 downregulates the expression of keratinocyte differentiation markers, including loricrin and filaggrin, in mouse keratinocytes and antioxidants prevented the downregulation of the keratinocyte differentiation markers. Conclusively, PM10 aggravated the DNCB-induced mouse model in serum IgE concentration, mast cell counts, inflammatory cytokine, and keratinocyte differentiation markers. In addition, antioxidants modulated changes in the DNCB-induced mouse model caused by PM10.

Chitosans and Nanochitosans: Recent Advances in Skin Protection, Regeneration, and Repair

Chitosan displays a dual function, acting as both an active ingredient and/or carrier for pharmaceutical bioactive molecules and metal ions. Its hydroxyl- and amino-reactive groups and acetylation degree can be used to adjust this biopolymer's physicochemical and pharmacological properties in different forms, including scaffolds, nanoparticles, fibers, sponges, films, and hydrogels, among others. In terms of pharmacological purposes, chitosan association with different polymers and the immobilization or entrapment of bioactive agents are effective strategies to achieve desired biological responses. Chitosan biocompatibility, water entrapment within nanofibrils, antioxidant character, and antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory properties, whether enhanced by other active components or not, ensure skin moisturization, as well as protection against bacteria colonization and oxidative imbalance. Chitosan-based nanomaterials can maintain or reconstruct skin architecture through topical or systemic delivery of hydrophilic or hydrophobic pharmaceuticals at controlled rates to treat skin affections, such as acne, inflammatory manifestations, wounds, or even tumorigenesis, by coating chemotherapy drugs. Herein, chitosan obtention, physicochemical characteristics, chemical modifications, and interactions with bioactive agents are presented and discussed. Molecular mechanisms involved in chitosan skin protection and recovery are highlighted by overlapping the events orchestrated by the signaling molecules secreted by different cell types to reconstitute healthy skin tissue structures and components.

Stilbenes: Source plants, chemistry, biosynthesis, pharmacology, application and problems related to their clinical Application-A comprehensive review

Stilbenes are some of the important phenolic compounds originating from plant families like Vitaceae, Leguminaceae, Gnetaceae, and Dipterocarpaceae. Structurally, they have a C6-C2-C6 skeleton, usually with two isomeric forms. Stilbenes are biosynthesized due to biotic and abiotic stresses such as microbial infections, high temperatures, and oxidation. This review aims to provide a comprehensive overview of stilbenes' botanical sources, chemistry, biosynthetic pathways, pharmacology, and clinical applications and challenges based on up-to-date data. All included studies were collected from PubMed, ScienceDirect, Google Scholar, and CNKI, and the presented data from these indexed studies were analyzed and summarized. A total of 459 natural stilbene compounds from 45 plant families and 196 plant species were identified. Pharmacological studies also show that stilbenes have various activities such as anticancer, antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-degenerative diseases, anti-diabetic, neuroprotective, anti-aging, and cardioprotective effects. Stilbene synthase (STS) is the key enzyme involved in stilbene biosynthetic pathways. Studies on the therapeutic application of stilbenes pinpoint that challenges such as low bioavailability and isomerization are the major bottlenecks for their development as therapeutic drugs. Although the medicinal uses of several stilbenes have been demonstrated in vivo and in vitro, studies on the development of stilbenes deserve more attention in the future.

Enhanced Anti-Skin-Aging Activity of Yeast Extract-Treated Resveratrol Rice DJ526

Resveratrol is a powerful antioxidant that defends against oxidative stress in cells but is not found in large quantities in plants. Resveratrol-enriched rice DJ526, which was developed as a functional crop, shows a diverse range of biological activities. Resveratrol production is measured as total resveratrol and its glycoside, piceid, which is mainly found in plant-derived resveratrol. In the present study, elicitation using yeast extract (YE), methyl jasmonate, and jasmonic acid increased resveratrol production in DJ526 rice seeds. DJ526 seeds elicited using 1 g/L (YE1) and 5 g/L yeast extract (YE5) showed enhanced resveratrol production and antioxidant activity. YE5-treated DJ526 seeds showed decreased melanin content by 46.1% and 37.0% compared with the negative control and DJ526 (non-elicitation), respectively. Both YE1 and YE5 efficiently improved the wound-healing activity by reducing the wound gap faster than in untreated cells, with a maximum rate of 60.2% at 24 h and complete closure at 48 h. YE1 and YE5 significantly decreased the levels of proinflammatory cytokine, TNF-α, and enhanced collagen synthesis in inflammatory cells. These findings indicate that YE-treated resveratrol rice DJ526 may improve resveratrol production and could be an active antiaging ingredient for cosmetic and skin therapy applications.

Promising Natural Products in New Drug Design, Development, and Therapy for Skin Disorders: An Overview of Scientific Evidence and Understanding Their Mechanism of Action

The skin is the largest organ in the human body, composed of the epidermis and the dermis. It provides protection and acts as a barrier against external menaces like allergens, chemicals, systemic toxicity, and infectious organisms. Skin disorders like cancer, dermatitis, psoriasis, wounds, skin aging, acne, and skin infection occur frequently and can impact human life. According to a growing body of evidence, several studies have reported that natural products have the potential for treating skin disorders. Building on this information, this review provides brief information about the action of the most important in vitro and in vivo research on the use of ten selected natural products in inflammatory, neoplastic, and infectious skin disorders and their mechanisms that have been reported to date. The related studies and articles were searched from several databases, including PubMed, Google, Google Scholar, and ScienceDirect. Ten natural products that have been reported widely on skin disorders were reviewed in this study, with most showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-microbial, and anti-cancer effects as the main therapeutic actions. Overall, most of the natural products reported in this review can reduce and suppress inflammatory markers, like tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), induce cancer cell death through apoptosis, and prevent bacteria, fungal, and virus infections indicating their potentials. This review also highlighted the challenges and opportunities of natural products in transdermal/topical delivery systems and their safety considerations for skin disorders. Our findings indicated that natural products might be a low-cost, well-tolerated, and safe treatment for skin diseases. However, a larger number of clinical trials are required to validate these findings. Natural products in combination with modern drugs, as well as the development of novel delivery mechanisms, represent a very promising area for future drug discovery of these natural leads against skin disorders.