Effects of a cosmetic 'anti-ageing' product improves photoaged skin [corrected]

How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.

Retinoids in the treatment of photoageing: A histological study of topical retinoid efficacy in black skin

BACKGROUND

Photoageing describes complex cutaneous changes that occur due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). The 'gold standard' for the treatment of photoaged white skin is all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA); however, cosmetic retinol (ROL) has also proven efficacious. Recent work has identified that black skin is susceptible to photoageing, characterized by disintegration of fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRMs) at the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ). However, the impact of topical retinoids for repair of black skin has not been well investigated.

OBJECTIVES

To determine the potential of retinoids to repair photoaged black skin.

METHODS

An exploratory intervention study was performed using an in vivo, short-term patch test protocol. Healthy but photoaged black volunteers (>45 years) were recruited to the study, and participant extensor forearms were occluded with either 0.025% ATRA (n = 6; 4-day application due to irritancy) or ROL (12-day treatment protocol for a cosmetic) at concentrations of 0.3% (n = 6) or 1% (n = 6). Punch biopsies from occluded but untreated control sites and retinoid-treated sites were processed for histological analyses of epidermal characteristics, melanin distribution and dermal remodelling.

RESULTS

Treatment with ATRA and ROL induced significant acanthosis (all p < 0.001) accompanied by a significant increase in keratinocyte proliferation (Ki67; all p < 0.01), dispersal of epidermal melanin and restoration of the FRMs at the DEJ (all p < 0.01), compared to untreated control.

CONCLUSIONS

This study confirms that topical ATRA has utility for the repair of photoaged black skin and that ROL induces comparable effects on epidermal and dermal remodelling, albeit over a longer timeframe. The effects of topical retinoids on black photoaged skin are similar to those reported for white photoaged skin and suggest conserved biology in relation to repair of UVR-induced damage. Further investigation of topical retinoid efficacy in daily use is warranted for black skin.

Prediction, screening and characterization of novel bioactive tetrapeptide matrikines for skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

Extracellular matrices play a critical role in tissue structure and function and aberrant remodelling of these matrices is a hallmark of many age-related diseases. In skin, loss of dermal collagens and disorganization of elastic fibre components are key features of photoageing. Although the application of some small matrix-derived peptides to aged skin has been shown to beneficially affect in vitro cell behaviour and, in vivo, molecular architecture and clinical appearance, the discovery of new peptides has lacked a guiding hypothesis.

OBJECTIVES

To identify, using protease cleavage site prediction, novel putative matrikines with beneficial activities for skin composition and structure.

METHODS

Here, we present an in silico (peptide cleavage prediction) to in vitro (proteomic and transcriptomic activity testing in cultured human dermal fibroblasts) to in vivo (short-term patch test and longer-term split-face clinical study) discovery pipeline, which enables the identification and characterization of peptides with differential activities.

RESULTS

Using this pipeline we showed that cultured fibroblasts were responsive to all applied peptides, but their associated bioactivity was sequence-dependent. Based on bioactivity, toxicity and protein source, we further characterized a combination of two novel peptides, GPKG (glycine-proline-lysine-glycine) and LSVD (leucine-serine-valine-aspartate), that acted in vitro to enhance the transcription of matrix -organization and cell proliferation genes and in vivo (in a short-term patch test) to promote processes associated with epithelial and dermal maintenance and remodelling. Prolonged use of a formulation containing these peptides in a split-face clinical study led to significantly improved measures of crow's feet and firmness in a mixed population.

CONCLUSIONS

This approach to peptide discovery and testing can identify new synthetic matrikines, providing insights into biological mechanisms of tissue homeostasis and repair and new pathways to clinical intervention.

Optimized multiherbal combination and in vivo anti-skin aging potential: a randomized double blind placebo controlled study

The present study aimed to optimize a multi-herbal combination exerting the greatest antioxidant property using statistical method for anti-skin aging application as well as to elucidate its in vivo safety and anti-skin aging potential. The multi-herbal combination was optimized using a two-level, full factorial approach by exploring the correlation between the concentrations (0-3%w/v) of three extracts from Centella asiatica (CA), Momordica cochinchinensis (MA), Phyllanthus emblica (EM). An anti-skin aging emulsion containing the optimized combination was then developed and evaluated for its physicochemical characteristics with its stability under storage conditions. The in vivo anti-skin aging potential of the emulsion was subsequently investigated among 60 women in a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. Skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles at eye and cheek areas were measured at baseline, after 30 and 60 days of application. Before performance testing, in vivo skin irritation was evaluated using the patch test and homogeneity between groups was also statistically analyzed. According to the model describing the significant main effects of each extract and interaction effects between extracts on percent inhibition against DPPH radicals, the best multi-herbal combination consisted of 3%w/v EM and 3%w/v CA. The developed emulsion containing the combination presented smooth soft texture with good stability in terms of physical characteristics and biological property. Regarding the clinical study, no skin erythema and edema was reported among in all volunteers. After 60 days of application, significantly improved skin hydration, elasticity and wrinkles were observed in the test group. In addition, significantly reduced wrinkles were observed after 60 days in both skin areas of the test group. The anti-skin aging emulsion containing this optimized combination exhibited good safety and performance. Ultimately, this product comprises an effective anti-skin aging formulation for applications.

Multifaceted amelioration of cutaneous photoageing by (0.3%) retinol

BACKGROUND

Although retinol skin care products improve the appearance of photoaged skin, there is a need for an effective retinol concentration that provides skin benefits without irritation.

OBJECTIVE

To compare the efficacy of topical 0.1%, 0.3% and 1% retinol in remodelling the cutaneous architecture in an in vivo experimental patch test study, and to determine tolerance of the most effective formulations when used in a daily in-use escalation study.

METHODS

For the patch test study, retinol products were applied under occlusion, to the extensor forearm of photoaged volunteers (n = 5; age range 66-84 years), and 3 mm skin biopsies obtained after 12 days. Effects of different retinol concentrations, and a vehicle control, on key epidermal and dermal biomarkers of cellular proliferation and dermal remodelling were compared to untreated baseline. Separately, participants (n = 218) recorded their tolerance to 0.3% or 1% retinol over a six-week, approved regimen, which gradually increased the facial applications to once nightly.

RESULTS

Retinol treatment induced a stepwise increase in epidermal thickness and induced the expression of stratum corneum proteins, filaggrin and KPRP. 0.3% retinol and 1% retinol were comparably effective at inducing keratinocyte proliferation in the epidermis, whilst reducing e-cadherin expression. Fibrillin-rich microfibril deposition was increased following treatment with 0.3% and 1% retinol (p < 0.01); other dermal components remained unaltered (e.g., fibronectin, collagen fibrils, elastin), and no evidence of local inflammation was detected. The in-use study found that 0.3% retinol was better tolerated than 1% retinol, with fewer and milder adverse events reported (χ² (1) = 23.97; p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study suggests that 1% and 0.3% retinol concentrations were similarly effective at remodelling photodamaged skin in an in vivo model of long-term use. Use of 0.3% retinol in the escalation study was associated with fewer adverse reactions when applied daily. Hence, 0.3% retinol may be better tolerated than 1% retinol, thereby allowing longer-term topical application.

Matrikines as mediators of tissue remodelling

Extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins confer biomechanical properties, maintain cell phenotype and mediate tissue repair (via release of sequestered cytokines and proteases). In contrast to intracellular proteomes, where proteins are monitored and replaced over short time periods, many ECM proteins function for years (decades in humans) without replacement. The longevity of abundant ECM proteins, such as collagen I and elastin, leaves them vulnerable to damage accumulation and their host organs prone to chronic, age-related diseases. However, ECM protein fragmentation can potentially produce peptide cytokines (matrikines) which may exacerbate and/or ameliorate age- and disease-related ECM remodelling. In this review, we discuss ECM composition, function and degradation and highlight examples of endogenous matrikines. We then critically and comprehensively analyse published studies of matrix-derived peptides used as topical skin treatments, before considering the potential for improvements in the discovery and delivery of novel matrix-derived peptides to skin and internal organs. From this, we conclude that while the translational impact of matrix-derived peptide therapeutics is evident, the mechanisms of action of these peptides are poorly defined. Further, well-designed, multimodal studies are required.

Elucidating the molecular landscape of the stratum corneum

Skin is recognized as an intricate assembly of molecular components, which facilitate cell signaling, metabolism, and protein synthesis mechanisms in order to offer protection, regulation, and sensation to the body. Our study takes significant steps to characterize in more detail the complex chemistry of the skin, in particular by generating a better understanding of the uppermost layer, the stratum corneum. Using a state-of-the-art 3D OrbiSIMS technique, we were able to observe the depth distribution, in situ, for a wide range of molecular species. This unprecedented molecular characterization of skin provides information that has the potential to benefit research into fundamental processes, such as those associated with skin aging and disease, and the development and delivery of effective topical formulations.

Characterization of the molecular structure of skin, especially the barrier layer, the stratum corneum, is a key research priority for generating understanding to improve diagnostics, aid pharmaceutical delivery, and prevent environmental damage. Our study uses the recently developed 3D OrbiSIMS technique to conduct in situ analysis of ex vivo human skin tissue and reveals the molecular chemistry of skin in unprecedented detail, as a result of the step change in high mass resolving power compared with previous studies. This characterization exposes the nonhomogeneity of the stratum corneum, both laterally and as a function of depth. Chemical variations relating to fundamental biological processes, such as the epidermal cholesterol sulfate cycle, are visualized using in situ analysis. We are able to resolve the debate around the chemical gradients present within the epidermis, for example, whether palmitic acid is of sebaceous origin or a true component of the stratum corneum. Through in situ depth analysis of cryogenically preserved samples, we are able to propose that it is actually a component of both surface sebum and the intrinsic lipid matrix. This approach also suggests similarity between the epidermis compounds found in human and porcine skin as a function of depth. Since porcine skin is a widely used model for permeation testing this result has clinical relevance. In addition to using this technique for endogenous species, we have used it to demonstrate the permeation of a commercially important antiaging peptide into the human stratum corneum. Due to its chemical similarity to native skin components and exceptionally low effective concentration, this information was previously unattainable.

Formulation and organoleptic evaluation of Poly Herbal Cream of Punica, Neem, Carrot & Jamun as Active Ingredients

Assuming that herbal preparation is better with fewer side effects than synthetics, natural treatments are more effective than allopathy in terms of side effects for better human body healing. Herbal products have a growing demand in the world market, and the plants have been reported in the literature as having various pharmacological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory activity, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic. The purpose of this study was to develop anti-aging poly-herbal cream by mixing the extract of Punica leaf, Neem Oil, Jamun powder, Carrot powder as the main ingredient, and then creams were developed based on the anti-oxidant ability of herbal extracts and performed their evaluation study. Punica granatam leaves were shade dried and extracted using the Soxhlet method with different solvents such as n-hexane, benzene, and alcohol. Fine extract powder was collected and removed distilled water thoroughly. The cream was formulated into different concentrations, namely F1, F2, F3, and F4. Similar types of research with similar components have been reported, but in this experiment, the formulation is different, and this work is kept cost-efficient and straightforward; it's an attempt to reduce few components and prepare cream and evaluate its potential. According to The International Council for Harmonization of Technical Requirements for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use ICH guidelines, the cream was stable during stability studies, and F3 turned out to be a better formulation than the other three.

The pleiotropic effects of Prunus avium L. extract against oxidative stress on human fibroblasts. An in vitro approach

There is a persistent interest in innovative and multifunctional ingredients in biology research. With regards to this, natural sources have an important role due to their multiple benefits. Thus, this study aims to present the pleiotropic activity of Prunus avium L. extract on human primary fibroblasts for proving its efficacy in dermis-related processes. We focused on the safety and efficacy assessments based on cytotoxicity and gene expression analysis under oxidative stress. Specifically, Prunus avium L. extract was proved non-cytotoxic in human fibroblasts. The gene expression analysis unveiled that this extract has in vitro protective properties on human dermal fibroblasts under oxidative stress related to antioxidant activity, anti-inflammatory response, cell proliferation and cell- aging. Our study demonstrated for the very first time that the Prunus avium L. extract is a multifunctional ingredient as it mediates several human dermis-related in vitro processes highlighting its potential to be used as an active ingredient in skin care products.

Marine Fungus Aspergillus chevalieri TM2-S6 Extract Protects Skin Fibroblasts from Oxidative Stress

The strain Aspergillus chevalieri TM2-S6 was isolated from the sponge Axinella and identified according to internal transcribed spacer (ITS) molecular sequence homology with Aspergillus species from the section Restricti. The strain was cultivated 9 days on potato dextrose broth (PDB), and the medium evaluated as antioxidant on primary normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF). The cultivation broth was submitted to sterile filtration, lyophilized and used without any further processing to give the Aspergillus chevalieri TM2-S6 cultivation broth ingredient named ACBB. ACCB contains two main compounds: tetrahydroauroglaucin and flavoglaucin. Under oxidative stress, ACCB showed a significant promotion of cell viability. To elucidate the mechanism of action, the impact on a panel of hundreds of genes involved in fibroblast physiology was evaluated. Thus, ACCB stimulates cell proliferation (VEGFA, TGFB3), antioxidant response (GPX1, SOD1, NRF2), and extracellular matrix organization (COL1A1, COL3A1, CD44, MMP14). ACCD also reduced aging (SIRT1, SIRT2, FOXO3). These findings indicate that Aspergillus chevalieri TM2-S6 cultivation broth exhibits significant in vitro skin protection of human fibroblasts under oxidative stress, making it a potential cosmetic ingredient.

In vitro protective effects of marine-derived Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract on H2O2-stressed primary human fibroblasts

Nowadays, there is a huge interest in natural products obtained from marine organisms that can promote human health.The aim of the present study is to evaluate for the first time, the in vitro effects of marine Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract against oxidative stress in human fibroblasts, and its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. The strain was isolated from the Mediterranean Sea star, Echinaster sepositus, and identified according to ITS molecular sequence homology as a member of Aspergillus section versicolores.To gain insight on the bioactivity underpinning the effects of TM124-S4 extract on oxidative stress, we examined a panel of a hundred genes as well as cell viability. Initially, Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 promoted cell viability.The change in gene transcripts revealed that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extracts exhibited skin protection properties by mediating cell proliferation (EPS8, GDF15, CASP7, VEGFA), antioxidant response (CAT, SOD1, TXN, GPX1), skin hydration (CD44, CRABP2, SERPINE) and DNA repair (PCNA, P21). The extract also modulated the expression of genes involved in skin pigmentation and aging (TYR, FOXO3).These findings indicate that Aspergillus puulaauensis TM124-S4 extract possesses significant in-vitro skin protection activity against induced oxidative stress.Furthermore, new insights are provided into the beneficial role of fungal bioactive compounds in skin related research.

Proteomic fingerprints of damage in extracellular matrix assemblies

In contrast to the dynamic intracellular environment, structural extracellular matrix (ECM) proteins with half-lives measured in decades, are susceptible to accumulating damage. Whilst conventional approaches such as histology, immunohistochemistry and mass spectrometry are able to identify age- and disease-related changes in protein abundance or distribution, these techniques are poorly suited to characterising molecular damage. We have previously shown that mass spectrometry can detect tissue-specific differences in the proteolytic susceptibility of protein regions within fibrillin-1 and collagen VI alpha-3. Here, we present a novel proteomic approach to detect damage-induced “peptide fingerprints” within complex multi-component ECM assemblies (fibrillin and collagen VI microfibrils) following their exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR) by broadband UVB or solar simulated radiation (SSR). These assemblies were chosen because, in chronically photoaged skin, fibrillin and collagen VI microfibril architectures are differentially susceptible to UVR. In this study, atomic force microscopy revealed that fibrillin microfibril ultrastructure was significantly altered by UVR exposure whereas the ultrastructure of collagen VI microfibrils was resistant. UVR-induced molecular damage was further characterised by proteolytic peptide generation with elastase followed by liquid chromatography tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Peptide mapping revealed that UVR exposure increased regional proteolytic susceptibility within the protein structures of fibrillin-1 and collagen VI alpha-3. This allowed the identification of UVR-induced molecular changes within these two key ECM assemblies. Additionally, similar changes were observed within protein regions of co-purifying, microfibril-associated receptors integrins αv and β1. This study demonstrates that LC-MS/MS mapping of peptides enables the characterisation of molecular post-translational damage (via direct irradiation and radiation-induced oxidative mechanisms) within a complex in vitro model system. This peptide fingerprinting approach reliably allows both the identification of UVR-induced molecular damage in and between proteins and the identification of specific protein domains with increased proteolytic susceptibility as a result of photo-denaturation. This has the potential to serve as a sensitive method of identifying accumulated molecular damage in vivo using conventional mass spectrometry data-sets.

•

Mass spectrometry “peptide fingerprinting” can detect post-translational damage within extracellular matrix proteins.

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UVR-induced FBN1 and COL6A3 peptide fingerprints are reproducibly identified from purified microfibrils.

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Peptide mapping reveals increased regional susceptibilities to proteolysis in FBN1 and COL6A3 proteins.

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Regional changes are also observed in protein structures of microfibril-associated receptor integrins αv and β1.

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This “peptide fingerprinting” approach is applicable to conventional LC-MS/MS datasets.

Theophylline exerts complex anti-ageing and anti-cytotoxicity effects in human skin ex vivo

OBJECTIVE

Theophylline is a phosphodiesterase inhibitor that is being used clinically for asthma therapy. In addition, it is recognized as a cosmetic agent with possible anti-ageing and anti-oxidative properties. Nevertheless, how it affects human skin is still poorly examined.

METHODS

Theophylline (10 or 100 µM) was administered to the culture medium of full-thickness human skin ex vivo for 24 or 72 h.

RESULTS

Theophylline stimulated protein expression of the anti-oxidant metallothionein-1 and mRNA levels of collagen I and III. Assessment of fibrillin-1 immunohistology revealed enhanced structural stability of dermal microfibrils. Theophylline also exerted extracellular matrix-protective effects by decreasing MMP-2 and MMP-9 mRNA levels, partially antagonizing the effects of menadione, the potent, toxic ROS donor. In addition, it decreased menadione-stimulated epidermal keratinocytes apoptosis. Interestingly, theophylline also increased the level of intracutaneously produced melatonin, that is the most potent ROS-protective and DNA damage repair neuromediator, and tendentially increased protein expression of MT1, the melatonin receptor. Theophylline also increased the expression of keratin 15, the stem cell marker, in the epidermal basal layer but did not change mitochondrial activity or epidermal pigmentation.

CONCLUSION

This ex vivo pilot study in human skin shows that theophylline possesses several interesting complex skin-protective properties. It encourages further examination of theophylline as a topical candidate for anti-ageing treatment.

Plant and Microalgae Derived Peptides Are Advantageously Employed as Bioactive Compounds in Cosmetics

Bioactive peptides (BP) are specific protein fragments that are physiologically important for most living organisms. It is proven that in humans they are involved in a wide range of therapeutic activities as antihypertensive, antioxidant, anti-tumoral, anti-proliferative, hypocholesterolemic, and anti-inflammatory. In plants, BP are involved in the defense response, as well as in the cellular signaling and the development regulation. Most of the peptides used as ingredients in health-promoting foods, dietary supplements, pharmaceutical, and cosmeceutical preparations are obtained by chemical synthesis or by partial digestion of animal proteins. This makes them not fully accepted by the consumers because of the risks associated with solvent contamination or the use of animal derived substances. On the other hand, plant and microalgae derived peptides are known to be selective, effective, safe, and well tolerated once consumed, thus they have got a great potential for use in functional foods, drugs, and cosmetic products. In fact, the interest in the plant and microalgae derived BP is rapidly increasing and in this review, we highlight and discuss the current knowledge about their studies and applications in the cosmetic field.

Selective proteolysis by matrix metalloproteinases of photo-oxidised dermal extracellular matrix proteins

Photodamage in chronically sun-exposed skin manifests clinically as deep wrinkles and histologically as extensive remodelling of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM) and in particular, the elastic fibre system. We have shown previously that loss of fibrillin microfibrils, a key elastic fibre component, is a hallmark of early photodamage and that these ECM assemblies are susceptible in vitro to physiologically attainable doses of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Here, we test the hypotheses that UVR-mediated photo-oxidation is the primary driver of fibrillin microfibril and fibronectin degradation and that prior UVR exposure will enhance the subsequent proteolytic activity of UVR-upregulated matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). We confirmed that UVB (280-315 nm) irradiation in vitro induced structural changes to both fibrillin microfibrils and fibronectin and these changes were largely reactive oxygen species (ROS)-driven, with increased ROS lifetime (D₂O) enhancing protein damage and depleted O₂ conditions abrogating it. Furthermore, we show that although exposure to UVR alone increased microfibril structural heterogeneity, exposure to purified MMPs (1, -3, -7 and - 9) alone had minimal effect on microfibril bead-to-bead periodicity; however, microfibril suspensions exposed to UVR and then MMPs were more structurally homogenous. In contrast, the susceptibly of fibronectin to proteases was unaffected by prior UVR exposure. These observations suggest that both direct photon absorption and indirect production of ROS are important mediators of ECM remodelling in photodamage. We also show that fibrillin microfibrils are relatively resistant to proteolysis by MMPs -1, -3, -7 and - 9 but that these MMPs may selectively remove damaged microfibril assemblies. These latter observations have implications for predicting the mechanisms of tissue remodelling and targeted repair.

Upregulation of Skin-Aging Biomarkers in Aged NHDF Cells by a Sucrose Ester Extract from the Agroindustrial Waste of Physalis peruviana Calyces

As part of a search for new sustainable plant sources of valuable compounds, the EtOAc extract of the discarded calyces of Physalis peruviana fruit was selected for its significant antiaging activity. Eight new sucrose esters (SEs), named peruvioses F-M (1-8), along with three known SEs, peruvioses A (9), peruviose B (10), and nicandrose D (11), were isolated. Their structures were elucidated by comprehensive analyses of their NMR and MS data. A global fragmentation pattern of these SEs was established from their MS data. The SE extract (SEE) at a concentration of 0.5 mg L^-1 upregulated multiple skin-aging biomarkers, namely, collagen I, elastin, and fibrillin-1, in aged normal human dermal fibroblast cells. A 36% increase in collagen I was observed. The elastin and fibrillin-1 contents were fully recovered, and an increase of at least 10% in the production of elastin was observed.

Plant extracts and natural compounds used against UVB-induced photoaging

Skin is continuously exposed to a variety of environmental stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) radiation. UVB is an inherent component of sunlight that crosses the epidermis and reaches the upper dermis, leading to increased oxidative stress, activation of inflammatory response and accumulation of DNA damage among other effects. The increase in UVB radiation on earth due to the destruction of stratospheric ozone poses a major environmental threat to the skin, increasing the risk of damage with long-term consequences, such as photoaging and photocarcinogenesis. Extracts from plants and natural compounds have been historically used in traditional medicine in the form of teas and ointments but the effect of most of these compounds has yet to be verified. Regarding the increasing concern of the population with issues related to quality of life and appearance, the cosmetic market for anti-aging and photoprotective products based on natural compounds is continuously growing, and there is increasing requirement of expansion on research in this field. In this review we summarized the most current and relevant information concerning plant extracts and natural compounds that are able to protect or mitigate the deleterious effects caused by photoaging in different experimental models.

Fifty years of research and development of cosmeceuticals: a contemporary review

Facial rejuvenation can be categorized into skincare and facial contouring. Research and development of cosmeceuticals is aimed at addressing the major signs of photoaging: wrinkles, dyschromia, and sallowness. Assessment of photoaging comes in clinical and photographic forms; a photonumeric scale developed by Griffiths et al. has been assured of its validity and reliability for the assessment of severity of photoaging in qualitative studies. Treatment of photoaging comes in two categories: preventive and reversal of signs; whilst sunfactors are the most efficient and essential in preventing photodamage, research and development of cosmeceuticals for facial rejuvenation has been robust, thanks to several landmark studies in the last fifty years, funded by some of the forerunners in contemporary cosmetic industry. Stem cell research remains the current forerunner in research concerning cosmeceuticals. Nevertheless, high-quality, randomized control trials remain scarce within the contemporary literature, and more research and trials without funding by the industry are required to give rise to impartial comparisons between various cosmeceutical products. The "perfect cream" for facial rejuvenation remains elusive.

Thyroid Hormones Enhance Mitochondrial Function in Human Epidermis

Since it is unknown whether thyroid hormones (THs) regulate mitochondrial function in human epidermis, we treated organ-cultured human skin, or isolated cultured human epidermal keratinocytes, with triiodothyronine (100 pmol/L) or thyroxine (100 nmol/L). Both THs significantly increased protein expression of the mitochondrially encoded cytochrome C oxidase I (MTCO1), complex I activity, and the number of perinuclear mitochondria. Triiodothyronine also increased mitochondrial transcription factor A (TFAM) protein expression, and thyroxine stimulated complex II/IV activity. Increased mitochondrial function can correlate with increased reactive oxygen species production, DNA damage, and accelerated tissue aging. However, THs neither raised reactive oxygen species production or matrix metalloproteinase-1, -2 and -9 activity nor decreased sirtuin1 (Sirt1) immunoreactivity. Instead, triiodothyronine increased sirtuin-1, fibrillin-1, proliferator-activated receptor-gamma 1-alpha (PGC1α), collagen I and III transcription, and thyroxine decreased cyclin-dependent kinase inhibitor 2A (p16(ink4)) expression in organ-cultured human skin. Moreover, TH treatment increased intracutaneous fibrillin-rich microfibril and collagen III deposition and decreased mammalian target of rapamycin (mTORC1/2) expression ex vivo. This identifies THs as potent endocrine stimulators of mitochondrial function in human epidermis, which down-regulates rather than enhance the expression of skin aging-related biomarkers ex vivo. Therefore, topically applied THs deserve further exploration as candidate agents for treating skin conditions characterized by reduced mitochondrial function.

Results from in vitro and ex vivo skin aging models assessing the antiglycation and anti-elastase MMP-12 potential of glycylglycine oleamide

BACKGROUND

Glycation is an aging reaction of naturally occurring sugars with dermal proteins. Type I collagen and elastin are most affected by glycation during intrinsic chronological aging.

AIM

To study the in vitro and ex vivo assays in human skin cells and explants and the antiaging effects of glycylglycine oleamide (GGO).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antiglycation effect of GGO was assessed in a noncellular in vitro study on collagen and, ex vivo, by immunohistochemical staining on human skin explants (elastin network glycation). The ability of GGO to contract fibroblasts was assessed in a functional assay, and its anti-elastase (MMP-12) activity was compared to that of oleic acid alone, glycylglycine (GG) alone, and oleic acid associated with GG.

RESULTS

In vitro, GGO reduced the glycation of type I collagen. Ex vivo, GGO restored the expression of fibrillin-1 inhibited by glycation. Furthermore, GGO induced a tissue retraction of almost 30%. Moreover, the MMP-12 activity was inhibited by up to 60%.

CONCLUSION

Under the present in vitro and ex vivo conditions, GGO prevents glycation of the major structural proteins of the dermis, helping to reduce the risk of rigidification. By maintaining the elastic function of the skin, GGO may be a promising sparring partner for other topical antiaging agents.

In vivo topical application of acetyl aspartic acid increases fibrillin-1 and collagen IV deposition leading to a significant improvement of skin firmness

OBJECTIVE

Acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) was discovered through gene array analysis with corresponding Cmap analysis. We found that A-A-A increased keratinocyte regeneration, inhibited dermal matrix metalloprotease (MMP) expression and relieved fibroblast stiffness through reduction of the fibroblast stiffness marker F-actin. Dermal absorption studies showed successful delivery to both the epidermal and dermal regions, and in-use trial demonstrated that 1% A-A-A was well tolerated. In this study, the aim was to investigate whether A-A-A could stimulate the synthesis of extracellular matrix supporting proteins in vivo and thereby improving the viscoelastic properties of human skin by conducting a dual histological and biophysical clinical study.

METHOD

Two separate double-blind vehicle-controlled in vivo studies were conducted using a 1% A-A-A containing oil-in-water (o/w) emulsion. In the histological study, 16 female volunteers (>55 years of age) exhibiting photodamaged skin on their forearm were included, investigating the effect of a 12-day treatment of A-A-A on collagen IV (COLIV) and fibrillin-1. In a subsequent pilot study, 0.1% retinol was used for comparison to A-A-A (1%). The biomechanical properties of the skin were assessed in a panel of 16 women (>45 years of age) using the standard Cutometer MPA580 after topical application of the test products for 28 days. The use of multiple suction enabled the assessment of F4, an area parameter specifically representing skin firmness.

RESULTS

Twelve-day topical application of 1% A-A-A significantly increased COLIV and fibrillin with 13% and 6%, respectively, compared to vehicle. 1% A-A-A and 0.1% retinol were found to significantly reduce F4 after 28 days of treatment by 15.8% and 14.7%, respectively, in the pilot Cutometer study. No significant difference was found between retinol and A-A-A. However, only A-A-A exhibited a significant effect vs. vehicle on skin firmness which indicated the incremental benefit of A-A-A as a skin-firming active ingredient.

CONCLUSION

In this study, we showed the in vivo efficacy of 1% A-A-A both on a protein level (fibrillin and collagen IV) and on a clinical end point, specifically skin firmness, providing proof that, acetyl aspartic acid has a strong potential as an anti-ageing 'cosmeceutical' ingredient answering the needs of our key consumer base.

The dynamic anatomy and patterning of skin

The skin is often viewed as a static barrier that protects the body from the outside world. Emphasis on studying the skin's architecture and biomechanics in the context of restoring skin movement and function is often ignored. It is fundamentally important that if skin is to be modelled or developed, we do not only focus on the biology of skin but also aim to understand its mechanical properties and structure in living dynamic tissue. In this review, we describe the architecture of skin and patterning seen in skin as viewed from a surgical perspective and highlight aspects of the microanatomy that have never fully been realized and provide evidence or concepts that support the importance of studying living skin's dynamic behaviour. We highlight how the structure of the skin has evolved to allow the body dynamic form and function, and how injury, disease or ageing results in a dramatic changes to the microarchitecture and changes physical characteristics of skin. Therefore, appreciating the dynamic microanatomy of skin from the deep fascia through to the skin surface is vitally important from a dermatological and surgical perspective. This focus provides an alternative perspective and approach to addressing skin pathologies and skin ageing.

A new wrinkle on old skin: the role of elastic fibres in skin ageing

Cutaneous ageing is the result of two distinct, biological processes which may occur concurrently: (i) the passage of time, termed intrinsic ageing and (ii) environmental influences, termed extrinsic ageing. Intrinsic ageing of the skin is a slow process which causes changes in tissue structure and impairs function in the absence of additional biological, chemical and physical factors. The clinical features of intrinsically aged skin are not usually evident until old age when, although smooth and unblemished, the skin surface appears pale and is characterized by fine wrinkles with occasional exaggerated expression lines. Functionally, intrinsically aged skin is dry and less elastic than more youthful skin. In contrast, extrinsically aged skin is exemplified by deep, coarse wrinkles, mottled hyperpigmentation and a marked loss of elasticity and recoil. The two major environmental influences which induce extrinsic ageing are: (i) chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) irradiation (termed photoageing) and (ii) smoking. This review discusses the changes associated with the ageing process in the skin, with particular emphasis on the role played by the elastic fibre network in maintaining dermal function. The review concludes with a discussion of a short-term assay for independent assessment of the efficacy of anti-ageing cosmetic products using the elastic fibre component fibrillin-1 as a biomarker of extracellular matrix repair.

Acetyl aspartic acid, a novel active ingredient, demonstrates potential to improve signs of skin ageing: from consumer need to clinical proof

BACKGROUND

The megatrend of population ageing is leading to a growing demand for "anti-ageing" treatments, especially to prevent or treat skin ageing. Facing an increasing offer, consumers are choosing more and more skin care products supported by a scientific rationale, active ingredients and clinical proof of efficacy.

OBJECTIVE

Considering consumer expectations, this research led to the discovery of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A), a novel active ingredient to improve sagging skin and loss of skin firmness.

RESULTS

This supplement is featuring seven manuscripts aiming at presenting the research and investigations from consumer insights, discovery of A-A-A, its in vitro activity confirmation, safety assessment, formulation and its dermal absorption to the clinical proof of efficacy, investigated through two pilots' double bind randomized and placebo controlled studies on photo-aged skin.

CONCLUSION

This extensive research enabled us to discover A-A-A, as an active ingredient with potential to repair sign of skin ageing and supported by clinical proof of efficacy. This active ingredient will be soon launched in a commercial innovative skin care range, delivering desirable anti-wrinkle and skin lifting benefits.

Mécano-Stimulation™ of the skin improves sagging score and induces beneficial functional modification of the fibroblasts: clinical, biological, and histological evaluations

BACKGROUND

Loss of mechanical tension appears to be the major factor underlying decreased collagen synthesis in aged skin. Numerous in vitro studies have shown the impact of mechanical forces on fibroblasts through mechanotransduction, which consists of the conversion of mechanical signals to biochemical responses. Such responses are characterized by the modulation of gene expression coding not only for extracellular matrix components (collagens, elastin, etc.) but also for degradation enzymes (matrix metalloproteinases [MMPs]) and their inhibitors (tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases [TIMPs]). A new device providing a mechanical stimulation of the cutaneous and subcutaneous tissue has been used in a simple, blinded, controlled, and randomized study.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Thirty subjects (aged between 35 years and 50 years), with clinical signs of skin sagging, were randomly assigned to have a treatment on hemiface. After a total of 24 sessions with Mécano-Stimulation™, biopsies were performed on the treated side and control area for in vitro analysis (dosage of hyaluronic acid, elastin, type I collagen, MMP9; equivalent dermis retraction; GlaSbox(®); n=10) and electron microscopy (n=10). Furthermore, before and after the treatment, clinical evaluations and self-assessment questionnaire were done.

RESULTS

In vitro analysis showed increases in hyaluronic acid, elastin, type I collagen, and MMP9 content along with an improvement of the migratory capacity of the fibroblasts on the treated side. Electron microscopy evaluations showed a clear dermal remodeling in relation with the activation of fibroblast activity. A significant improvement of different clinical signs associated with skin aging and the satisfaction of the subjects were observed, correlated with an improvement of the sagging cheek.

CONCLUSION

Mécano-Stimulation is a noninvasive and safe technique delivered by flaps microbeats at various frequencies, which can significantly improve the skin trophicity. Results observed with objective measurements, ie, in vitro assessments and electron microscopy, confirm the firming and restructuring effect clinically observed.

Biomarkers and aging

Biomarkers and Ageing

25 February 2014, London, UK

This conference was organized by Euroscicon and was part of the 2014 Ageing Summit. The central theme was biomarkers and aging including current research on biomarkers at the genomics and proteomics level. The informal atmosphere of the conference promoted interaction and networking opportunities between key leaders from industry, academic and clinics. Presentations as well as the discussion panel session brought opportunities to widely discuss the relevance of biomarkers as signatures for human aging or age-related diseases. The meeting highlighted the importance of genomics and regulatory elements in aging, their probable role in successful aging and their potential interest for future antiaging approaches. The meeting was chaired by David Melzer and Lorna Harries (University of Exeter, UK).

The science of dermocosmetics and its role in dermatology

Our increased knowledge of normal skin physiology has ushered in a subtle revolution in cosmetic science. Originally designed as preparations to enhance personal appearance by direct application on to the skin, cosmetics have now taken on a new role in dermatology, through the support of the management of many skin disorders. This evolving role of cosmetics in skin care is primarily due to scientific and technological advancements that have changed our understanding of normal skin physiology and how cosmetics modify its appearance both physically and biologically. The vast array of techniques currently available to investigate skin responsivity to multiple stimuli has brought about a new era in cosmetic and dermocosmetic development based on a robust understanding of skin physiology and its varied responses to commonly encountered environmental insults. Most cosmetic research is undertaken on reconstructed skin models crucial in dermatological research, given the strict ban imposed by the European Union on animal testing. In addition, the design and conduct of trials evaluating cosmetics now follow rules comparable to those used in the development and evaluation of pharmaceutical products. Cosmetic research should now aim to ensure all trials adhere to strictly reproducible and scientifically sound methodologies. The objective of this review is to provide an overview of the multidisciplinary scientific approach used in formulating dermocosmetics, and to examine the major advances in dermocosmetic development and assessment, the safety and regulatory guidelines governing their production and the exciting future outlook for these dermocosmetic processes following good practice rules.

Beneficial Regulation of Elastase Activity and Expression of Tissue Inhibitors of Matrixmetalloproteinases, Fibrillin, Transforming Growth Factor-β, and Heat Shock Proteins by P. leucotomos in Nonirradiated or Ultraviolet-Radiated Epidermal Keratinocytes

There is loss of the structural integrity of the extracellular matrix (ECM) with intrinsic aging as well as photoaging, largely due to reactive oxygen species (ROS). The structural ECM proteins include the microfibrils that are composed of fibrillin. The structural ECM proteins are primarily degraded by the matrixmetalloproteinases (MMPs) and elastase enzymes. The MMPs are inhibited by the tissue inhibitors of MMPs (TIMPs). A primary regulator of the ECM proteins is transforming growth factor-β (TGF-β), and the chaperone proteins important for its formation are the heat shock proteins (HSP). P. leucotomos extract beneficially regulates of MMPs, TIMPs, and TGF-β in nonirradiated or ultraviolet (UV) radiated fibroblasts and melanoma cells. The hypothesis of this research was that the antioxidant activity or chemistry of P. leucotomos extract would also directly inhibit elastase activity, stimulate the cellular expression of TIMPs, fibrillins, and TGF-β, and regulate HSPs in nonirradiated and UVA or UVB radiated epidermal keratinocytes. P. leucotomos directly inhibited elastase activity, stimulated the cellular expression of TIMPs, fibrillins, and TGF-β, and differentially regulated HSPs in nonirradiated and UVA or UVB radiated epidermal keratinocytes. We infer that the P. leucotomos extract strengthens the ECM and is effective in the prevention or treatment of intrinsic and photoaging of skin.

In vitro and in vivo studies with tetra-hydro-jasmonic acid (LR2412) reveal its potential to correct signs of skin ageing

BACKGROUND

LR2412, a synthetic derivative of jasmonic acid, improved the reconstruction and homeostasis of our organotypic skin models.

OBJECTIVES

The need for efficient 'anti-ageing' treatments, in particular for the management of photoaged skin, prompted us to investigate this new ingredient for its potential to correct signs of skin ageing in vitro and in vivo and to identify its mode of action.

RESULTS

In vitro, penetration of LR2412 was evaluated using a Franz diffusion cell on excised human skin. Its exfoliating properties and interactions with the stratum corneum were studied using electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction. Experiments were performed on a human reconstructed skin model. In vivo, the effects of LR2412 on steroid-induced skin atrophy, a clinical skin ageing model, were assessed vs. vehicle. A patch test study evaluated its effect on deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils in the papillary dermis in clinically photoaged volunteers. A clinical study on the appearance of crow's feet wrinkles was conducted over 3 months of daily application. Penetration studies revealed that LR2412 reaches viable epidermis and superficial dermis, which are skin targets of anti-ageing actives. Within the upper layers of the stratum corneum LR2412 accelerates desquamation and improves the mechanical properties. At the dermal-epidermal junction of reconstructed skin, collagen IV, laminin-5 and fibrillin were stimulated. In vivo, LR2412 reversed steroid-induced atrophy. The patch test model confirms the deposition of fibrillin-rich microfibrils, then an in use clinical study revealed that it reduced facial wrinkles.

CONCLUSIONS

The in vitro and in vivo data demonstrate that based on its multiple interactions within human skin, LR2412 has potential to partially correct the signs of ageing in intrinsically and photoaged skin.

Age-Related Tissue Stiffening: Cause and Effect

SIGNIFICANCE

Tissue elasticity is severely compromised in aging skin, lungs, and blood vessels. In the vascular and pulmonary systems, respectively, loss of mechanical function is linked to hypertension, which in turn is a risk factor for heart and renal failure, stroke, and aortic aneurysms, and to an increased risk of mortality as a result of acute lung infections.

RECENT ADVANCES

Although cellular mechanisms were thought to play an important role in mediating tissue aging, the reason for the apparent sensitivity of elastic fibers to age-related degradation remained unclear. We have recently demonstrated that compared with type I collagen, a key component of the elastic fiber system, the cysteine-rich fibrillin microfibril is highly susceptible to direct UV exposure in a cell-free environment. We hypothesized therefore that, as a consequence of both their remarkable longevity and cysteine-rich composition, many elastic fiber-associated components will be susceptible to the accumulation of damage by both direct UV radiation and reactive oxygen species-mediated oxidation.

CRITICAL ISSUES

Although elastic fiber remodeling is a common feature of aging dynamic tissues, the inaccessibility of most human tissues has hampered attempts to define the molecular causes.

CLINICAL CARE RELEVANCE

Although, currently, the localized repair of damaged elastic fibers may be effected by the topical application of retinoids and some cosmetic products, future studies may extend the application of systemic transforming growth factor β antagonists, which can prevent cardiovascular remodeling in murine Marfan syndrome, to aging humans. Acellular mechanisms may be key mediators of elastic fiber remodeling and hence age-related tissue stiffening.

Randomized controlled study of a cosmetic treatment for mild acne

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are not tested with the same rigour as medical treatments, but recent high-quality studies have shown significant reductions in changes of skin ageing with use of cosmetic antiageing products.

AIM

To test whether a cosmetic 'anti-spot' two-step treatment containing a complex of seaweed-derived oligosaccharide and zinc would produce a significant improvement in mild acne.

METHODS

A double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial of this treatment was performed for 8 weeks on 60 age-matched participants with mild acne. They were divided into two groups: 30 participants were treated with vehicle control and 30 with the active treatment containing a seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.

RESULTS

After 8 weeks, both groups had a reduction in comedones, papules and pustules, and this was significantly greater in the active than control group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.

CONCLUSIONS

Cosmetic products may offer some benefit for mild acne and still meet the requirements of the European Cosmetic Directive. In particular, the seaweed-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone used in this study produced a significant reduction in acne vs. a control treatment. Cosmetic companies should conduct blinded controlled trials of their product's efficacy and publish the results.

Comparisons against baseline within randomised groups are often used and can be highly misleading

Background

In randomised trials, rather than comparing randomised groups directly some researchers carry out a significance test comparing a baseline with a final measurement separately in each group.

Methods

We give several examples where this has been done. We use simulation to demonstrate that the procedure is invalid and also show this algebraically.

Results

This approach is biased and invalid, producing conclusions which are, potentially, highly misleading. The actual alpha level of this procedure can be as high as 0.50 for two groups and 0.75 for three.

Conclusions

Randomised groups should be compared directly by two-sample methods and separate tests against baseline are highly misleading.

Longitudinal study of skin aging: from microrelief to wrinkles

AIM

To study the changes in skin microrelief and periocular wrinkles during the aging process.

METHODS

Replicas of the crow's feet area of volunteers were recorded in 1987 and 2008 and observed comparatively. Characteristic features were quantified by image analysis.

RESULTS

Observation shows that some microrelief features disappear and even merge with wrinkles that become more marked. Some primary lines also tend to merge to form thin new wrinkles. Quantitative data support these observations: the size of small and medium objects of skin relief decreases with age while large objects are becoming larger.

CONCLUSION

Over 21 years, in the group studied, the total area of the detected objects remains quite constant. Only the distribution between small and large detected objects (microrelief features and wrinkles, respectively) is modified.

Molecular aspects of skin ageing

Ageing of human skin may result from both the passage of time (intrinsic ageing) and from cumulative exposure to external influences (extrinsic ageing) such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR) which promote wrinkle formation and loss of tissue elasticity. Whilst both ageing processes are associated with phenotypic changes in cutaneous cells, the major functional manifestations of ageing occur as a consequence of structural and compositional remodeling of normally long-lived dermal extracellular matrix proteins. This review briefly considers the effects of ageing on dermal collagens and proteoglycans before focusing on the mechanisms, functional consequences and treatment of elastic fibre remodeling in ageing skin. The early stages of photoageing are characterised by the differential degradation of elastic fibre proteins and whilst the activity of extracellular matrix proteases is increased in photoexposed skin, the substrate specificity of these enzymes is low. We have recently shown however, that isolated fibrillin microfibrils are susceptible to direct degradation by physiologically attainable doses of UV-B radiation and that elastic fibre proteins as a group are highly enriched in UV-absorbing amino acid residues. Functionally, elastic fibre remodeling events may adversely impact on: the mechanical properties of tissues, the recruitment and activation of immune cells, the expression of matrix metalloproteinases and cytokine signaling (by perturbing fibrillin microfibril sequestration of TGFβ). Finally, newly developed topical interventions appear to be capable of regenerating elements of the elastic fibre system in ageing skin, whilst systemic treatments may potentially prevent the pathological tissue remodeling events which occur in response to elastic fibre degradation.

A novel anti-ageing mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fibre formation

Dermal elastic fibres are extracellular matrix protein complexes produced by fibroblasts and involved in skin elasticity. Elastin fibres decrease with age as a result of reduced synthesis and increased degradation, resulting in skin sagging and reduced skin elasticity. In this study, we show that retinol (ROL), known to enhance dermal collagen production, is also enhancing elastin fibre formation. ROL induced elastin gene expression and elastin fibre formation in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Topical treatment of cultured human skin explants with a low dose (0.04%) of ROL increased mRNA and protein levels of tropoelastin and of fibrillin-1, an elastin accessory protein, as documented by QPCR and immunohistochemistry staining. Luna staining confirmed the increased elastin fibre network in the ROL-treated skin explants, as compared with untreated controls. These data demonstrate that ROL exerts its anti-ageing benefits not only via enhanced epidermal proliferation and increased collagen production, but also through an increase in elastin production and assembly.