Retinoids in cosmeceuticals

Skin ageing and topical rejuvenation strategies

Skin ageing is a complex process involving the additive effects of skin's interaction with its external environment, predominantly chronic sun exposure, upon a background of time-dependent intrinsic ageing. Skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors perceived to represent overall 'health and wellbeing'; thus, the demand for skin rejuvenation strategies has rapidly increased, with a worldwide annual expenditure expected to grow from $US24.6 billion to around $US44.5 billion by 2030 (https://www.databridgemarketresearch.com/reports/global-facial-rejuvenation-market). Skin rejuvenation can be achieved in several ways, ranging from laser and device-based treatments to chemical peels and injectables; however, topical skin care regimes are a mainstay treatment for ageing skin and all patients seeking skin rejuvenation can benefit from this relatively low-risk intervention. While the most efficacious topical rejuvenation treatment is application of tretinoin (all-trans retinoic acid) - a prescription-only medicine considered to be the clinical 'gold standard' - a hybrid category of 'cosmeceutical' products at the midpoint of the spectrum of cosmetics and pharmaceutical has emerged. This article reviews the clinical manifestations of skin ageing and the available topical treatments for skin rejuvenation, including retinoids, peptides and antioxidants.

Antibiotics-Free Compounds for Chronic Wound Healing

The rapid rise in the health burden associated with chronic wounds is of great concern to policymakers, academia, and industry. This could be attributed to the devastating implications of this condition, and specifically, chronic wounds which have been linked to invasive microbial infections affecting patients' quality of life. Unfortunately, antibiotics are not always helpful due to their poor penetration of bacterial biofilms and the emergence of antimicrobial resistance. Hence, there is an urgent need to explore antibiotics-free compounds/formulations with proven or potential antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and wound healing efficacy. The mechanism of antibiotics-free compounds is thought to include the disruption of the bacteria cell structure, preventing cell division, membrane porins, motility, and the formation of a biofilm. Furthermore, some of these compounds foster tissue regeneration by modulating growth factor expression. In this review article, the focus is placed on a number of non-antibiotic compounds possessing some of the aforementioned pharmacological and physiological activities. Specific interest is given to Aloevera, curcumin, cinnamaldehyde, polyhexanide, retinoids, ascorbate, tocochromanols, and chitosan. These compounds (when alone or in formulation with other biologically active molecules) could be a dependable alternative in the management or prevention of chronic wounds.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations

Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Sustainable Sources from Aquatic Organisms for Cosmeceuticals Ingredients

Long life expectancy of populations in the developing world together with some cultural and social issues has driven the need to pay special attention to health and physical appearance. Cosmeceuticals are gaining interest in the cosmetic industry as their uses fulfills a double purpose: the requirements of a cosmetic (clean, perfume, protect, change the appearance of the external parts of the body or keeping them in good condition) with a particular bioactivity function. The cosmetics industry, producing both cosmetics and cosmeceuticals, is currently facing numerous challenges to satisfy different attitudes of consumers (vegetarianism, veganism, cultural or religious concerns, health or safety reasons, eco-friendly process, etc.). A currently growing trend in the market is the interest in products of low environmental impact. Marine origin ingredients are increasingly being incorporated into cosmeceutical preparations because they are able to address several consumer requirements and also due to the wide range of bioactivities they present (antioxidant, whitening, anti-aging, etc.). Many companies claim “Marine” as a distinctive marketing signal; however, only a few indicate whether they use sustainable ingredient sources. Sustainable marine ingredients might be obtained using wild marine biomass through a sustainable extractive fishing activity; by adopting valorization strategies including the use of fish discards and fish by-products; and by sustainably farming and culturing marine organisms.

In vivo β-carotene skin permeation modulated by Nanostructured Lipid Carriers

Nanostructured Lipid Carriers (NLC) were investigated with the purpose of promoting skin permeation of the highly lipophilic β-carotene (BC) across the stratum corneum (SC) barrier so that it may perform its antioxidant properties in photo-aging and epithelial skin cancer prevention. Two differently sized NLC samples were developed using stearic acid and squalene as lipid matrix and evaluated in comparison with Microstructured Lipid Carriers (MLC). The carriers were characterized for morphology, size, Z-potential, BC loading and release as well as physical state by means of DSC and XRPD analyses. In vivo penetration of the carriers was assessed on humans by determining BC concentrations within the SC stratum disjunctum and stratum compactum layers removed by means of the tape stripping test in comparison with pure BC. Unlike MLC and pure BC that were mostly retained within the outermost layers of the SC, the NLC sample having the smallest size (about 200 nm) has proved to penetrate more deeply into the SC barrier. Accordingly, the goal of providing β-carotene actions against oxidative damages within the looser skin viable tissues could be envisaged.

Characterization, antioxidant, and cytotoxic effects of some Egyptian wild plant extracts

Background

Natural products from plants are very safe as compared to synthetic ones, so the aim of this study was to assess the in vitro antioxidant and antitumor activities of the ethanolic extracts of four Egyptian wild plant species (Varthemia candicans, Peganum harmala, Suaeda vermiculata, and Conyza dioscoridis), as well as polyphenols and flavonoid contents with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The antioxidant activity of the four plant extracts was assessed using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) to determine 50% inhibition of DPPH radical scavenging activity and reducing power by phosphomolybdate assay. In addition, the chemical composition of the four sample extracts was investigated using GC-MS. The total phenolic and flavonoid levels were also determined. Then, the antitumor activity of the plant extracts against HepG2 cells was determined using a 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay.

Results

The results showed that Varthemia candicans extract was the highest one regarding both polyphenols and flavonoid contents. Moreover, the extract of Suaeda vermiculata exhibited the lowest half maximum inhibitory concentration (IC50) against DPPH, thus indicating its highest effectiveness. All studied plant extracts decreased the viability of HepG2 cells, in a dose- and time-dependent manner, and the lowest IC50 was for Suaeda vermiculata.

Conclusion

The investigated plant extracts showed potent antioxidant and antitumor activities in vitro due to their phytochemical contents.

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing.

Topical Proretinal Nanoparticles: Biological Activities, Epidermal Proliferation and Differentiation, Follicular Penetration, and Skin Tolerability

Proretinal nanoparticles, the retinilidene-chitosan nanoparticles, have been developed to overcome the physicochemical instability of retinal and to lessen the dose-dependent cutaneous irritation, through sustaining the release of retinoid. Compared to conventional retinal at the same concentration, proretinal nanoparticles had no cytotoxicity and could induce a spontaneously immortalized human keratinocyte line to express more cellular retinoic acid binding protein-2. Compared to rats topically applied with conventional retinal which showed clear skin irritation and inflammation, daily topical application of proretinal nanoparticles to rats for 28 consecutive days produced neither irritation nor inflammation but significantly increased epidermal proliferation, epidermal thickness, cellular retinoic acid binding protein- 2 expression, and up-regulation of various differentiation markers including keratin 5, keratin 10, keratin 14, cellular retinoic acid binding protein-2, and proliferating cell nuclear antigen. Through the use of confocal laser scanning microscopy, we observed the in vivo follicular penetration of proretinal nanoparticles with the depth of penetration independent of postapplication time. Proretinal nanoparticles provide better biological activities of retinoids on epidermis and could eliminate the side effect of retinoid dermatitis.

Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments

Vitamin A is the first vitamin approved by the Food and Drug Administration as an anti-wrinkle agent that changes appearance of the skin surface and has anti-aging effects. Vitamin A is in a group of fat-soluble substances and belongs to the category of retinoids. Apart from retinol, that group includes structurally related substances with the biological properties of retinol. Since the biological activity of the substances differs, for the purpose of standardization, it is given in retinol equivalents. Vitamin A and its derivatives are among the most effective substances slowing the aging process. Retinoids regulate the cell apoptosis, differentiation and proliferation. Anti-wrinkle properties of retinoids promote keratinocytes proliferation, strengthen the protective function of the epidermis, restrain transepidermal water loss, protect collagen against degradation and inhibit metalloproteinases activity. Retinoid activity is related to high affinity for nuclear receptors: RAR – retinoid acid receptors and RXR – retinoid X receptors.

Induction of Hyalurosome by Topical Hyaluronate Fragments Results in Superficial Filling of the Skin Complementary to Hyaluronate Filler Injections

Hyaluronate (HA) plays a major role in the process of skin aging. The main use of HA has been for hydration and dermal fillers. Another approach, based on the discovery of the signaling effects of topically applied hyaluronate fragments (HAF), has subsequently been developed. It has been thoroughly demonstrated that topical applications of HAF of a very specific size induce HA filling of the epidermis and the upper dermis. These effects are particularly visible in dermatoporotic patients. Moreover, the combination of HA-based filler injections with topical applications of HAFs/retinoids showed an optimization of the effects of HA. Thus, a new classification of the different effects of HA is proposed here.

Skin Carotenoids in Public Health and Nutricosmetics: The Emerging Roles and Applications of the UV Radiation-Absorbing Colourless Carotenoids Phytoene and Phytofluene

In this work, the importance of dietary carotenoids in skin health and appearance is comprehensively reviewed and discussed. References are made to their applications in health-promoting and nutricosmetic products and the important public health implications that can be derived. Attention is focused on the colourless UV radiation (UVR)-absorbing dietary carotenoids phytoene and phytofluene, which are attracting increased interest in food science and technology, nutrition, health and cosmetics. These compounds are major dietary carotenoids, readily bioavailable, and have been shown to be involved in several health-promoting actions, as pinpointed in recent reviews. The growing evidence that these unique UVR-absorbing carotenoids with distinctive structures, properties (light absorption, susceptibility to oxidation, rigidity, tendency to aggregation, or even fluorescence, in the case of phytofluene) and activities can be beneficial in these contexts is highlighted. Additionally, the recommendation that the levels of these carotenoids are considered in properly assessing skin carotenoid status is made.

Molecular Mechanisms of Dermal Aging and Antiaging Approaches

The dermis is primarily composed of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and fibroblasts. During the aging process, the dermis undergoes significant changes. Collagen, which is a major component of ECM, becomes fragmented and coarsely distributed, and its total amount decreases. This is mainly due to increased activity of matrix metalloproteinases, and impaired transforming growth factor-β signaling induced by reactive oxygen species generated during aging. The reduction in the amount of collagen hinders the mechanical interaction between fibroblasts and the ECM, and consequently leads to the deterioration of fibroblast function and further decrease in the amount of dermal collagen. Other ECM components, including elastic fibers, glycosaminglycans (GAGs), and proteoglycans (PGs), also change during aging, ultimately leading to a reduction in the amount of functional components. Elastic fibers decrease in intrinsically aged skin, but accumulate abnormally in photoaged skin. The changes in the levels of GAGs and PGs are highly diverse, and previous studies have reported conflicting results. A reduction in the levels of functional dermal components results in the emergence of clinical aging features, such as wrinkles and reduced elasticity. Various antiaging approaches, including topicals, energy-based procedures, and dermal fillers, can restore the molecular features of dermal aging with clinical efficacy. This review summarizes the current understanding of skin aging at the molecular level, and associated treatments, to put some of the new antiaging technology that has emerged in this rapidly expanding field into molecular context.

Increasing the percutaneous absorption and follicular penetration of retinal by topical application of proretinal nanoparticles

Topical retinoids are frequently applied for therapeutic and cosmeceutical reasons although their bioavailability is low due to their chemical and photochemical instability. Moreover, skin irritation is a common side effect. Therefore, proretinal nanoparticles (PRN) as a novel formulation of topical retinoids, which are based on chitosan grafted with retinal through reversible linkage, were developed and their skin penetration behavior was studied. As nanoparticles preferably penetrate into the hair follicles, the follicular penetration depths of PRN at different time points were investigated. Moreover, the release capacity of the nanoparticulate system was studied using fluorescein as a model drug. Additionally, the concentration of retinal in the stratum corneum and in the hair follicles was quantified after application in particulate and non-particulate form. The results showed that the nanocarriers reached the infundibular area of the hair follicles, irrespective of the incubation time. The nanoparticles were able to release their model drug within the hair follicle. The retinal concentration delivered to the stratum corneum and the hair follicles was significantly higher when retinal was applied in the particulate form. In conclusion, the presented proretinal nanoparticle system may help to overcome the main problems of topical retinoid therapy, which are skin irritation, chemical and photochemical instability and low bioavailability, thus improving the topical retinoid therapy.

Photo-co-carcinogenesis of Topically Applied Retinyl Palmitate in SKH-1 Hairless Mice

Cosmetic products that contain retinyl palmitate are popular as antiaging skin treatments; however, recent studies suggest a risk for enhanced skin tumor development with topical retinyl palmitate applications and exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR). In this study, we investigated the potential of retinyl palmitate to enhance UVR-induced photo-co-carcinogenesis. Groups of 36 male and 36 female SKH-1 hairless mice were exposed to simulated solar light (SSL) and treated with the control cream or creams containing retinyl palmitate, 5 days per week for 40 weeks. Other groups of mice were exposed to SSL and received no cream treatment or received cream treatments and were exposed to ultraviolet-A or ultraviolet-B. Mice were monitored for the development of skin tumors, and the incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell neoplasia were determined by histopathology. In both the absence and presence of SSL, mice administered the control cream developed skin tumors earlier and had higher incidences and multiplicities of skin squamous cell neoplasms than mice that received no cream treatment. Compared to the control cream groups, mice exposed to SSL and administered the retinyl palmitate creams demonstrated earlier onsets of skin tumors and had increased incidences and multiplicities of squamous cell skin neoplasms.

Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review

Besides the unquestionable positive effects of solar exposure for human health, UV rays have been widely investigated for toxicology aspects related to excessive UVB and UVA doses, which involve sunburns, skin aging, DNA skin damage and tumorigenesis. At present, synthetic and mineral sunscreens are used to protect against these damages but several natural molecules can provide UV protection, including also synergic effect or enhanced photo stability. Although a large number of herbal extracts and plant origin molecules can deserve potential applications, most of the study reported utilizes different method and different strategies of investigation, making thus difficult to understand the real versus claimed potential. This is possibly one of the reasons why, beside the large body of literature there are no officially approved natural commercial sun-filter but a consistent number of commercially available solar products (sunscreen) on the market that contain herbal derivatives. In this review we have evaluated the papers appeared in the last 15years and we have critically collected the most significant data. Several databases, namely Scifinder, Pubmed, Google Scholar, ISI-Web of Science and Scopus, were used as literature sources; excluding patents and symposium or congress papers. Only articles in the English language have been selected. New formulation, new skin delivery systems, skin penetration enhancers and boosters are most likely the next frontier of investigation in order to better understand the role of whole herbal extracts in exerting their photo protective activity.

Topical Retinoids: Therapeutic Mechanisms in the Treatment of Photodamaged Skin

Retinoids are a group of substances comprising vitamin A and its natural and synthetic derivatives. Retinoids were first used in dermatology in 1943 by Straumfjord for acne vulgaris. Since that time, retinoids have been utilized in the management and treatment of various skin conditions, including photoaging. Photodamage of the skin occurs as a consequence of cumulative exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and is characterized by deep wrinkles, easy bruising, inelasticity, mottled pigmentation, roughness, and telangiectasias. The mechanism of UVR-induced photodamage is multifactorial. Retinoids have demonstrated efficacy in the treatment of photoaged skin. Indeed, understanding the pathophysiology of photoaging and the molecular mechanism of retinoids can not only provide insight into the effects retinoids can exert in treating photoaging but also provide the rationale for their use in the treatment of other dermatologic diseases.

Topical Products for the Aging Face

This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use.

Severe hyperpigmentation and scarring following glycolic acid peel treatment in combination with low-dose isotretinoin

BACKGROUND

The application of systemic isotretinoin in the treatment of cutaneous photoaging has been well investigated. In addition, well-recognized topical antiaging therapies such as superficial chemical peeling (CP) with α-hydroxy acids have been shown to be more helpful when combined with low-dose oral isotretinoin. Even though the combination of systemic isotretinoin and medium to deep CP has been associated with serious side effects such as delayed wound healing and enlarged incidence of scarring, to date superficial CP and concomitant systemic isotretinoin have been considered safe.

CASE PRESENTATION

In this report, we present the case of a patient receiving low-dose oral isotretinoin therapy who developed severe painful erythema and erosions that led to permanent hyperpigmentation and scarring of her face and neck after undergoing superficial CP with glycolic acid.

CONCLUSIONS

There is a potential risk of hyperpigmentation and scarring with the use of a combination of low-dose oral isotretinoin and glycolic acid peeling.

Active ingredients against human epidermal aging

The decisive role of the epidermis in maintaining body homeostasis prompted studies to evaluate the changes in epidermal structure and functionality over the lifetime. This development, along with the identification of molecular mechanisms of epidermal signaling, maintenance, and differentiation, points to a need for new therapeutic alternatives to treat and prevent skin aging. In addition to recovering age- and sun-compromised functions, proper treatment of the epidermis has important esthetic implications. This study reviews active ingredients capable of counteracting symptoms of epidermal aging, organized according to the regulation of specific age-affected epidermal functions: (1) several compounds, other than retinoids and derivatives, act on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, supporting the protective barrier against mechanical and chemical insults; (2) natural lipidic compounds, as well as glycerol and urea, are described as agents for maintaining water-ion balance; (3) regulation of immunological pathogen defense can be reinforced by natural extracts and compounds, such as resveratrol; and (4) antioxidant exogenous sources enriched with flavonoids and vitamin C, for example, improve solar radiation protection and epidermal antioxidant activity. The main objective is to provide a functional classification of active ingredients as regulatory elements of epidermal homeostasis, with potential cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Effects of Egg Shell Membrane Hydrolysates on Anti-Inflammatory, Anti-Wrinkle, Anti-Microbial Activity and Moisture-Protection

This study was conducted to examine the effects of eggshell membrane hydrolysates (ESMH) on the anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-microbial activity, and moisture-protection for cosmetic use. Whole ESMH (before fractionation), and fraction I (>10 kDa), fraction II (3-10 kDa), and fraction III (<3 kDa) of the hydrolysates were assessed in this experiment. As lipopolysaccharide (LPS) and IFN-γ caused the inflammation on Raw264.7 cell, whole ESMH and fraction I showed to be effective in inhibiting the induction of cell inflammation depending on the concentration, and also showed outstanding effect to suppress the skin inflammation. Fraction I inhibited collagenase and elastase activities to a greater extent than the other fractions, while all fractions had antibiotic effects at concentrations of 10 mg/disc and 20 mg/disc. In addition, it showed the moisture protection effects of skin on the holding amount and losing amount of moisture in upper-inner arm of the human body with a relatively low loss rate in skin, which confirmed that the hydrolyzed fractions of ESM helps to form the superior protective layer of moisture. It was concluded that ESMH fractions with different molecular weights, especially the 10 kDa fraction, have anti-lipopolysaccharide, anti-IFN-γ-induced inflammation, anti- collagenase and elastase activities, and thus can be used as a cosmetic agent to protect skin.

UHPH-processed O/W submicron emulsions stabilised with a lipid-based surfactant: physicochemical characteristics and behaviour on in vitro TC7-cell monolayers and ex vivo pig's ear skin

Submicron O/W emulsions formulated with sesame oil plus a lipid-base surfactant, and with or without retinyl acetate (RAC) as a model hydrophobic biomolecule, were prepared by single-pass homogenisation at ≥ 200 MPa (UHPH) and an initial fluid temperature (Tin) of 24°C. These emulsions were characterised by a monomodal distribution (peak maximum at 260 nm) and a 2-year potential physical stability at ambient temperature. Submicron droplets were investigated in term of (i) physicochemical characteristics (size distribution curves; ζ-potential value), and (ii) impact on TC7-cell monolayers (MTT-assay and cell LDH-leakage). Submicron droplets ± RAC did not affect or increased significantly (p=0.05) TC7-cell metabolic activity after 4-24h of exposure indicating absence of cellular impairment, except when high amounts of droplets were deposed on TC7-cells. Indeed, the lipid-based surfactant deposed alone on TC7-cells at high concentration, induced some significant (p=0.05) cell LDH-leakage, and therefore cell-membrane damage. Cellular uptake experiments revealed a significant (p=0.05) time-dependent internalisation of RAC from submicron droplets, and cellular transformation of RAC into retinol. The turnover of RAC into retinol and therefore RAC bioaccessibility appeared faster for RAC-micelles of similar size-range and prepared at atmospheric pressure with polysorbate 80, than for submicron O/W emulsions. Permeation experiments using pig's ear skin mounted on Franz-type diffusion cells, revealed RAC in dermis-epidermis, in significantly (p=0.05) higher amounts for submicron than coarse pre-emulsions. However, RAC amounts remained low for both emulsion-types and RAC was not detected in the receptor medium of Franz-type diffusion cells.

Beneficial effects of marine algal compounds in cosmeceuticals

The name “cosmeceuticals” is derived from “cosmetics and pharmaceuticals”, indicating that a specific product contains active ingredients. Marine algae have gained much importance in cosmeceutical product development due to their rich bioactive compounds. In the present review, marine algal compounds (phlorotannins, sulfated polysaccharides and tyrosinase inhibitors) have been discussed toward cosmeceutical application. In addition, atopic dermatitis and the possible role of matrix metalloproteinase (MMP) in skin-related diseases have been explored extensively for cosmeceutical products. The proper development of marine algae compounds will be helpful in cosmeceutical product development and in the development of the cosmeceutical industry.

Lemon (Citrus limon, Burm.f.) essential oil enhances the trans-epidermal release of lipid-(A, E) and water-(B6, C) soluble vitamins from topical emulsions in reconstructed human epidermis

Topical bioavailability of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins is a critical issue for protecting or anti-ageing formulations. Using 17-day-old SkinEthic(®) reconstructed human epidermis, we investigated (at 34°C) the role of lemon EO in enhancing the penetration of α-tocopherol (E) and retinyl acetate (A), pyridoxine (B(6)) and ascorbic acid (C), released from O/W or W/O emulsions. D-limonene, α-pinene and p-cymene (65.9, 2.2 and 0.5%w/w of the oil) had skin permeability coefficients Ps (10(-3) cm h(-1)) of 0.56 ± 0.03 (or 0.73 ± 0.02), 0.72 ± 0.05 (or 0.98 ± 0.05) and 0.84 ± 0.04 (or 1.14 ± 0.04), respectively, when incorporated in a W/O (or O/W) emulsion. Vitamins B6, C and A had Ps values of (3.0 ± 0.4) × 10(-3), (7.9 ± 0.6) × 10(-3) and (0.37 ± 0.02) × 10(-5) cm h(-1), respectively, and their flux through the skin was enhanced by a factor of 4.1, 3.4 and 5.8, respectively, in the presence of lemon EO. The penetration of vitamin E was nine-fold enhanced. Lemon EO produced only reversible modification of TEWL, and it is a safe and effective penetration enhancer for topical administration of lipid- and water-soluble vitamins.

The art and science of new advances in cosmeceuticals

The need for cosmeceutical research is ever present. This article has tried to highlight the chemistry of botanic extracts in the current marketplace and review the best research available. In some ways, more questions have been raised than answered; yet, ideas for intellectual discourse have been provided. Herein lies the physician cosmeceutical challenge.

Retinoid production using metabolically engineered Escherichia coli with a two-phase culture system

BACKGROUND

Retinoids are lipophilic isoprenoids composed of a cyclic group and a linear chain with a hydrophilic end group. These compounds include retinol, retinal, retinoic acid, retinyl esters, and various derivatives of these structures. Retinoids are used as cosmetic agents and effective pharmaceuticals for skin diseases. Retinal, an immediate precursor of retinoids, is derived by β-carotene 15,15'-mono(di)oxygenase (BCM(D)O) from β-carotene, which is synthesized from the isoprenoid building blocks isopentenyl diphosphate (IPP) and dimethylallyl diphosphate (DMAPP). Retinoids are chemically unstable and biologically degraded via retinoic acid. Although extensive studies have been performed on the microbial production of carotenoids, retinoid production using microbial metabolic engineering has not been reported. Here, we report retinoid production using engineered Escherichia coli that express exogenous BCM(D)O and the mevalonate (MVA) pathway for the building blocks synthesis in combination with a two-phase culture system using a dodecane overlay.

RESULTS

Among the BCM(D)O tested in E. coli, the synthetic retinoid synthesis protein (SR), based on bacteriorhodopsin-related protein-like homolog (Blh) of the uncultured marine bacteria 66A03, showed the highest β-carotene cleavage activity with no residual intracellular β-carotene. By introducing the exogenous MVA pathway, 8.7 mg/L of retinal was produced, which is 4-fold higher production than that of augmenting the MEP pathway (dxs overexpression). There was a large gap between retinal production and β-carotene consumption using the exogenous MVA pathway; therefore, the retinal derivatives were analyzed. The derivatives, except for retinoic acid, that formed were identified, and the levels of retinal, retinol, and retinyl acetate were measured. Amounts as high as 95 mg/L retinoids were obtained from engineered E. coli DH5α harboring the synthetic SR gene and the exogenous MVA pathway in addition to dxs overexpression, which were cultured at 29°C for 72 hours with 2YT medium containing 2.0% (w/v) glycerol as the main carbon source. However, a significant level of intracellular degradation of the retinoids was also observed in the culture. To prevent degradation of the intracellular retinoids through in situ extraction from the cells, a two-phase culture system with dodecane was used. The highest level of retinoid production (136 mg/L) was obtained after 72 hours with 5 mL of dodecane overlaid on a 5 mL culture.

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, we successfully produced 136 mg/L retinoids, which were composed of 67 mg/L retinal, 54 mg/L retinol, and 15 mg/L retinyl acetate, using a two-phase culture system with dodecane, which produced 68-fold more retinoids than the initial level of production (2.2 mg/L). Our results demonstrate the potential use of E. coli as a promising microbial cell factory for retinoid production.

Improvement of photoaged facial skin in middle-aged Japanese females by topical retinol (vitamin A alcohol): a vehicle-controlled, double-blind study

Topical tretinoin formulation is still unavailable in Japan. Because topical retinol, which is less potent but may cause less irritation, is available here, we have performed a randomized, blinded, vehicle-controlled study on the face using a once-nightly regimen for the treatment of mild photoaging in middle-aged Japanese females. First, a 26-week study was conducted in 57 subjects with a 0.075% retinol cream and its vehicle on each half side of the face. Three of the 57 subjects withdrew from the study due to irritation, although this rate was much smaller than that noted in our previous study with topical tretinoin. After 26 weeks, the rates of photoaging improvement were significantly higher on the retinol side: 27 out of 54 (50%) versus 13 (24%) for the fine wrinkling and 15 out of 54 (28%) versus 1 (2%) for deep wrinkling. A similar trial with a 0.04% retinol cream for 13 weeks revealed less prominent improvements in fine wrinkling but minimal irritation. From these data, we think that retinol creams, especially 0.04% cream, are suitable for daily use in the general population because of the low irritancy, even for those with sensitive skin.

Cosmeceuticals: the evidence behind the retinoids

A wide range of cosmeceutical products are available on the market currently, but evidence to support their use is often lacking in the literature. Specifically, there is a substantial amount of evidence supporting the efficacy of tretinoin in photoaging, but the evidence supporting retinoid-based cosmeceuticals remains sparse. The authors review the current data in the literature related to vitamin A-derived cosmeceutical products and conclude that cosmeceuticals containing retinaldehyde have been shown in large randomized, controlled trials to have the most beneficial effect on aging skin.