A review of delivery systems in cosmetics

Nanotechnology-Based Approaches for Cosmeceutical and Skin Care: A Systematic Review

Cosmeceuticals have gained great importance and are among the top-selling products used for skin care. Because of changing lifestyles, climate, and increasing pollution, cosmeceuticals are utilized by every individual, thereby making cosmeceuticals a fruitful field for research and the economy. Cosmeceuticals provide incredibly pleasing aesthetic results by fusing the qualities of both cosmetics and medicinal substances. Cosmeceuticals are primarily utilized to improve the appearance of skin by making it smoother, moisturized, and wrinkle-free, in addition to treating dermatological conditions, including photoaging, burns, dandruff, acne, eczema, and erythema. Nanocosmeceuticals are cosmetic products that combine therapeutic effects utilizing nanotechnology, allowing for more precise and effective target-specific delivery of active ingredients, and improving bioavailability.

Anti-biofilm activity of a novel nanoemulsion containing Curcuma xanthorrhiza oil

OBJECTIVES

We aimed to solubilize Curcuma xanthorrhiza oil (CXO) using nanoemulsification and evaluate its inhibitory effects against biofilm formation.

METHODS

The components of CXO were evaluated through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis. Healthy human saliva was inoculated onto hydroxyapatite discs to form microcosm biofilms for four days and treated six times with each antimicrobial agent: distilled water (DW), CXO emulsion (EM), CXO nanoemulsion (NE), and positive controls (Listerine and chlorhexidine). Biofilm fluorescence imaging was performed using quantitative light-induced fluorescence, and cell viability and dry-weight measurements were obtained. We compared the bacterial cell and extracellular polysaccharide (EPS) biovolume and thickness using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM).

RESULTS

HPLC analysis revealed that CXO was composed of approximately 47% xanthorrhizol. Compared with DW, NE exhibited significantly lower red fluorescence intensity and area (42% and 37%, p < 0.001 and p < 0.001, respectively), and reduced total and aciduric bacterial cell viability (7.3% and 3.9%, p < 0.001, p = 0.01, respectively). Furthermore, the bacterial cell and EPS biovolume and thickness in NE decreased by 40-80% compared to DW, similar to chlorhexidine. Conversely, EM showed a significant difference only in cell viability against total bacteria when compared with DW (p = 0.003), with EPS biovolume and thickness exhibiting higher values than DW.

CONCLUSIONS

Nanoemulsification successfully solubilized CXO and demonstrated superior anti-biofilm effects compared to the emulsion form.

CLINICAL SIGNIFICANCE

These findings suggest the potential use of NE as a novel antimicrobial agent for preventing oral diseases.

Destabilization of Pickering emulsions by interfacial transport of mutually soluble solute

HYPOTHESIS

Pickering emulsions (PEs) once formed are highly stable because of very high desorption energies (∼10⁷ k_BT) associated with particles adsorbed to the interfaces. The destabilization of PEs is required in many instances for recovery of valuable chemicals, products and active compounds. We propose to exploit interfacial instabilities develop by the addition of different types of solutes to PEs as a route to engineer their destabilization.

EXPERIMENTS

PEs stabilized by (i) spherical particles, (ii) non-spherical particles, (iii) oppositely charged particle-particle mixtures, and (iv) oppositely charged particle-polyelectrolyte mixtures are formulated. Different types of solutes are added to these highly stable PEs and the macroscopic as well as microscopic changes induced in the PEs is recorded by visual observation and bright field optical microscopy.

FINDINGS

Our results point to a simple yet robust method to induce destabilization of PEs by transiently perturbing the oil-water interface by transport of a mutually soluble solute across the interface. The generality of the method is demonstrated for different kind of solutes and stabilizers including particles of different sizes (nm to µm), shapes (sphere, spheroids, spherocylinders) and types (polystyrene, metal oxides). The method works for both oil-in-water (o/w) and water-in-oil (w/o) PEs with different kinds of non-polar solvents as oil-phase. However, the method fails when the solute is insoluble in one of the phases of PEs. The study opens up a new approach to destabilization of particle stabilized emulsions.

Health safety of parabens evaluated by selected in vitro methods

Seven selected parabens (4 allowed, 3 banned in cosmetics) were tested in order to confirm and expand historical data on their toxicological properties and safety. The aim was to apply novel in vitro methods, which have been sufficiently technically and scientifically validated for the purposes of toxicological testing of chemicals. The study included several toxicological endpoints such as skin/eye irritation, skin sensitization, endocrine disruption and genotoxicity. The battery of selected methods comprised regulatory accepted EpiDerm™ skin model (OECD TG 439); EpiOcular™ corneal model (OECD TG 492) and scientifically valid test method HET-CAM (DB-ALM Protocol No. 47); in chemico test DPRA (OECD TG 442C); in vitro test LuSens (OECD TG 442D) and in vitro test h-CLAT (OECD TG 442E); Ames MPF™ (Xenometrix) and XenoScreen YES/YAS (Xenometrix). Overall, none of the 4 allowed parabens exhibited skin/eye irritation or genotoxicity. However, all allowed parabens in cosmetics were predicted as samples with potentially sensitizing properties in the LuSens and h-CLAT test methods, but not confirmed by DPRA. Endocrine disruption was recorded only at high concentrations, whereas methyl paraben and ethyl paraben exhibited the lowest activity. This study confirmed the safety of use of the allowed parabens in the highest recommended concentrations in cosmetics or pharmaceuticals.

Adsorption of sterically-stabilized diblock copolymer nanoparticles at the oil-water interface: effect of charged end-groups on interfacial rheology

The RAFT aqueous emulsion polymerization of either methyl methacrylate (MMA) or benzyl methacrylate (BzMA) is conducted at 70 °C using poly(glycerol monomethacrylate) (PGMA) as a water-soluble precursor to produce sterically-stabilized diblock copolymer nanoparticles of approximately 30 nm diameter. Carboxylic acid- or morpholine-functional RAFT agents are employed to confer anionic or cationic functionality at the ends of the PGMA stabilizer chains, with a neutral RAFT agent being used as a control. Thus the electrophoretic footprint of such minimally-charged model nanoparticles can be adjusted simply by varying the solution pH. Giant (mm-sized) aqueous droplets containing such nanoparticles are then grown within a continuous phase of n-dodecane and a series of interfacial rheology measurements are conducted. The interfacial tension between the aqueous phase and n-dodecane is strongly dependent on the charge of the terminal group on the stabilizer chains. More specifically, neutral nanoparticles produce a significantly lower interfacial tension than either cationic or anionic nanoparticles. Moreover, adsorption of neutral nanoparticles at the n-dodecane-water interface produces higher interfacial elastic moduli than that observed for charged nanoparticles. This is because neutral nanoparticles can adsorb at much higher surface packing densities owing to the absence of electrostatic repulsive forces in this case.

Pickering Emulsions: A Novel Tool for Cosmetic Formulators

The manufacturing of stable emulsion is a very important challenge for the cosmetic industry, which has motivated intense research activity for replacing conventional molecular stabilizers with colloidal particles. These allow minimizing the hazards and risks associated with the use of conventional molecular stabilizers, providing enhanced stability to the obtained dispersions. Therefore, particle-stabilized emulsions (Pickering emulsions) present many advantages with respect to conventional ones, and hence, their commercialization may open new avenues for cosmetic formulators. This makes further efforts to optimize the fabrication procedures of Pickering emulsions, as well as the development of their applicability in the fabrication of different cosmetic formulations, necessary. This review tries to provide an updated perspective that can help the cosmetic industry in the exploitation of Pickering emulsions as a tool for designing new cosmetic products, especially creams for topical applications.

Design and Development of OECT Logic Circuits for Electrical Stimulation Applications

This paper presents the first successful implementation of fully printed electronics for flexible and wearable smart multi-pad stimulation electrodes intended for use in medical, sports and lifestyle applications. The smart multi-pad electrodes with the electronic circuits based on organic electrochemical transistor (OECT)-based electronic circuits comprising the 3–8 decoder for active pad selection and high current throughput transistors for switching were produced by multi-layer screen printing. Devices with different architectures of switching transistors were tested in relevant conditions for electrical stimulation applications. An automated testbed with a configurable stimulation source and an adjustable human model equivalent circuit was developed for this purpose. Three of the proposed architectures successfully routed electrical currents of up to 15 mA at an output voltage of 30 V, while one was reliably performing even at 40 V. The presented results demonstrate feasibility of the concept in a range of conditions relevant to several applications of electrical stimulation.

Formulation and Characterization of Stimuli-Responsive Lecithin-Based Liposome Complexes with Poly(acrylic acid)/Poly(N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) and Pluronic® Copolymers for Controlled Drug Delivery

Polymer–liposome complexes (PLCs) can be efficiently applied for the treatment and/or diagnosis of several types of diseases, such as cancerous, dermatological, neurological, ophthalmic and orthopedic. In this work, temperature-/pH-sensitive PLC-based systems for controlled release were developed and characterized. The selected hydrophilic polymeric setup consists of copolymers of Pluronic^®-poly(acrylic acid) (PLU-PAA) and Pluronic^®-poly(N,N-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate) (PLU-PD) synthesized by atom transfer radical polymerization (ATRP). The copolymers were incorporated into liposomes formulated from soybean lecithin, with different copolymer/phospholipid ratios (2.5, 5 and 10%). PLCs were characterized by evaluating their particle size, polydispersity, surface charge, capacity of release and encapsulation efficiency. Their cytotoxic potential was assessed by determining the viability of human epithelial cells exposed to them. The results showed that the incorporation of the synthesized copolymers positively contributed to the stabilization of the liposomes. The main accomplishments of this work were the innovative synthesis of PLU-PD and PLU-PAA by ATRP, and the liposome stabilization by their incorporation. The formulated PLCs exhibited relevant characteristics, notably stimuli-responsive attributes upon slight changes in pH and/or temperature, with proven absence of cellular toxicity, which could be of interest for the treatment or diagnosis of all diseases that cause some particular pH/temperature change in the target area.

Exploring water in oil emulsions simultaneously stabilized by solid hydrophobic silica nanospheres and hydrophilic soft PNIPAM microgel

A general drawback of microgels is that they do not stabilize water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions of non-polar oils. Simultaneous stabilization with solid hydrophobic nanoparticles and soft hydrophilic microgels overcomes this problem. For a fundamental understanding of this synergistic effect the use of well defined particle systems is crucial. Therefore, the present study investigates the stabilization of water droplets in a highly non-polar oil phase using temperature responsive, soft and hydrophilic PNIPAM microgel particles (MGs) and solid and hydrophobic silica nanospheres (SNs) simultaneously. The SNs are about 20 times smaller than the MGs. In a multiscale approach the resulting emulsions are studied from the nanoscale particle properties over microscale droplet sizes to macroscopic observations. The synergy of the particles allows the stabilization of water-in-oil (w/o) emulsions, which was not possible with MGs alone, and offers a larger internal interface than the stabilization with SNs alone. Furthermore, the incorporation of hydrophilic MGs into a hydrophobic particle layer accelerates the emulsions sedimentation speed. Nevertheless, the droplets are still sufficiently protected against coalescence even in the sediment and can be redispersed by gentle shaking. Based on droplet size measurements and cryo-SEM studies we elaborate a model, which explains the found phenomena.

Review of the safety of application of cosmetic products containing parabens

Cosmetics are a source of lifetime exposure to various substances including parabens, being the most popular synthetic preservatives. Because the use of cosmetics shows an increasing trend and some adverse health outcomes of parabens present in these products have been reported, the present review focused on the safety of dermal application of these compounds. Special attention has been paid to the absorption of parabens and their retention in the human body in the intact form, as well as to their toxicological characteristics. Particular emphasis has been placed on the estrogenic potential of parabens. Based on the available published data of the concentrations of parabens in various kinds of cosmetics, the average ranges of systemic exposure dose (SED) for methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben have been calculated. Safety evaluations [margin of safety (MoS)] for these compounds, based on their aggregate exposure, have also been performed. Moreover, evidence for the negative impact of methylparaben on skin cells has been provided, and the main factors that may intensify dermal absorption of parabens and their impact on the skin have been described. Summarizing, the use of single cosmetics containing parabens should not pose a hazard for human health; however, using excessive quantities of cosmetic preparations containing these compounds may lead to the development of unfavorable health outcomes. Due to the real risk of estrogenic effects, as a result of exposure to parabens in cosmetics, simultaneous use of many cosmetic products containing these preservatives should be avoided.

Synergic effects of ultrasound and ionic liquids on fluconazole emulsion

The aim of this work was to evaluate the influence of US on the properties of the fluconazole emulsions prepared using imidazolium-based ILs ([C_n C₁im]Br). The effects of the preparation method (mechanical stirring or US), US amplitude, alkyl chain length (of [C₁₂C₁im]Br or [C₁₆C₁im]Br), and IL concentration on the physicochemical properties were evaluated. Properties such as droplet size, span index, morphology, viscosity encapsulation efficiency, and drug release profile were determined. The results showed that US-prepared emulsions had a smaller droplet size and smaller polydispersity (Span) than those prepared by mechanical stirring. Additionally, the results showed that emulsions prepared with [C₁₆C₁im]Br and US had spherical shapes and increased stability compared to emulsions prepared by MS, and also depended on the IL concentration. The emulsion prepared by US at 40% amplitude had increased encapsulation efficiency. US provided a decrease in the viscosity of emulsions containing [C₁₂C₁im]Br; however, in general, all emulsions had viscosity close to that of water. Emulsions containing [C₁₆C₁im]Br had the lowest viscosities of all the emulsions. The emulsions containing the IL [C₁₆C₁im]Br had more controlled release and a lower cumulative percentage of drug release. The IL concentration required to prepare these emulsions was lower than the amount of conventional surfactant required, which highlights the potential synergic effects of ILs and US in preparing emulsions of hydrophobic drugs.

High-Sensitivity Permeation Analysis of Ultrasmall Nanoparticles Across the Skin by Positron Emission Tomography

Ultrasmall nanoparticles (US-NPs; <20 nm in hydrodynamic size) are now included in a variety of pharmacological and cosmetic products, and new technologies are needed to detect at high sensitivity the passage of small doses of these products across biological barriers such as the skin. In this work, a diffusion cell adapted to positron emission tomography (PET), a highly sensitive imaging technology, was developed to measure the passage of gold NPs (AuNPs) in skin samples in continuous mode. US-AuNPs (3.2 nm diam.; TEM) were functionalized with deferoxamine (DFO) and radiolabeled with ⁸⁹Zr_(IV) (half-life: 3.3 days, matching the timeline of diffusion tests). The physicochemical properties of the functionalized US-AuNPs (US-AuNPs-PEG-DFO) were characterized by FTIR (DFO grafting; hydroxamate peaks: 1629.0 cm^-1, 1569.0 cm^-1), XPS (presence of the O═C-N C 1s peak of DFO at 287.49 eV), and TGA (organic mass fraction). The passage of US-AuNPs-PEG-DFO-⁸⁹Zr_(IV) in skin samples was measured by PET, and the diffusion parameters were extracted thereby. The signals of radioactive US-AuNPs-PEG-DFO-⁸⁹Zr_(IV) leaving the donor compartment, passing through the skin, and entering the acceptor compartment were detected in continuous at concentrations as low as 2.2 nM of Au. The high-sensitivity acquisitions performed in continuous allowed for the first time to extract the lag time to the start of permeation, the lag time to start of the steady state, the diffusion coefficients, and the influx data for AuNPs permeating into the skin. PET could represent a highly valuable tool for the development of nanoparticle-containing topical formulations of drugs and cosmetics.

A Novel Microfiber Wipe for Delivery of Active Substances to Human Skin: Clinical Proof of Concept

A novel technology for the delivery of active substances to the skin based on microfibers loaded with dried active substances was developed. The objective of this work was to demonstrate deposition of the active substances on the skin including concurrent cleansing properties of the wipe. As model active substance to measure deposition capacity Niacinamide was used and as parameter to measure cleansing capacities of the wipe squalene uptake was measured. Wipes loaded with niacinamide were used in the face and the forearm of 25 subjects. By means of Raman spectrometry the deposited niacinamide was analyzed before and after application. Wipes used on the face were analyzed for squalene to assess skin cleansing properties and for residual niacinamide. Forearm analysis including placebo and verum on left and right arm respectively was performed to rule out changes of the skin through application of the tissue. Measured amounts of niacinamide from face application demonstrate statistically significant results in the study population. Analysis of the wipes used show a liberation of 28.3% of niacinamide from the wipes and an uptake of 1.7 mg squalene per wipe. Results from forearm application show statistically significant differences (p < 0.05) between placebo and active for the complete study population. Sub group analyses are significant for both gender and ethnicity for face and forearm analysis respectively. Results clearly demonstrate deposition of niacinamide on the skin and the cleansing properties of the wipe. The institutional review board approved this prospective study.

Chitosan-based nanofragrance with antibacterial function applied to wallpaper

Adding fragrances to the wallpaper can optimize our living environment and office environment. However, the poor adhesion and rapid release of fragrances on wallpapers have limited their application. In this study, vanillin was encapsulated in particles based on chitosan and poly(lactic-co-glycolic acid), thereby achieving a slow release of the fragrance. In addition, due to the addition of chitosan, the adhesion of the fragrance on the wallpaper was enhanced, and the wallpaper was given antibacterial properties.

Halloysite/Keratin Nanocomposite for Human Hair Photoprotection Coating

We propose a novel keratin treatment of human hair by its aqueous mixtures with natural halloysite clay nanotubes. The loaded clay nanotubes together with free keratin produce micrometer-thick protective coating on hair. First, colloidal and structural properties of halloysite/keratin dispersions and the nanotube loaded with this protein were investigated. Above the keratin isoelectric point (pH = 4), the protein adsorption into the positive halloysite lumen is favored because of the electrostatic attractions. The ζ-potential magnitude of these core-shell particles increased from -35 (in pristine form) to -43 mV allowing for an enhanced colloidal stability (15 h at pH = 6). This keratin-clay tubule nanocomposite was used for the immersion treatment of hair. Three-dimensional-measuring laser scanning microscopy demonstrated that 50-60% of the hair surface coverage can be achieved with 1 wt % suspension application. Hair samples have been exposed to UV irradiation for times up to 72 h to explore the protection capacity of this coating by monitoring the cysteine oxidation products. The nanocomposites of halloysite and keratin prevent the deterioration of human hair as evident by significant inhibition of cysteic acid. The successful hair structure protection was also visually confirmed by atomic force microscopy and dark-field hyperspectral microscopy. The proposed formulation represents a promising strategy for a sustainable medical coating on the hair, which remediates UV irradiation stress.

Pickering Bubbles as Dual-Modality Ultrasound and Photoacoustic Contrast Agents

Microbubbles (MBs) stabilized by particle surfactants (i.e., Pickering bubbles) have better thermodynamic stability compared to MBs stabilized by small molecules as a result of steric hindrance against coalescence, higher diffusion resistance, and higher particle desorption energy. In addition, the use of particles to stabilize MBs that are typically used as an ultrasound (US) contrast agent can also introduce photoacoustic (PA) properties, thus enabling a highly effective dual-modality US and PA contrast agent. Here, we report the use of partially reduced and functionalized graphene oxide as the sole surfactant to stabilize perfluorocarbon gas bubbles in the preparation of a dual-modality US and PA agent, with high contrast in both imaging modes and without the need for small-molecule or polymer additives. This approach offers an increase in loading of the PA agent without destabilization and increased thickness of the MB shell compared to traditional systems, in which the focus is on adding a PA agent to existing MB formulations.

Transdermal delivery systems in cosmetics

Transdermal delivery systems have been intensively studied over the past 2 decades, with the focus on overcoming the skin barrier for more effective application of pharmaceutical and cosmetic products. Although the cosmeceutical industry has made a substantial progress in the development and incorporation of new and effective actives in their products, the barrier function of the skin remains a limiting factor in the penetration and absorption of these actives. Enhancement via modification of the stratum corneum by hydration, acting of chemical enhancers on the structure of stratum corneum lipids, and partitioning and solubility effects are described. This review summarizes the advances in the development and mechanisms of action of chemical components that act as permeation enhancers, as well as the advances in appropriate vehicles, such as gels, emulsions, and vesicular delivery systems, that can be used for effective transdermal delivery.

Oleogel-mediated transdermal delivery of white emitting NaYF4 conjugated with Rose Bengal for the generation of reactive oxygen species through NIR-upconversion

The transdermal route for the delivery of therapeutic agents to the inner skin tissues for non-invasive photodynamic therapy; though constitutes a desired modality for treating skin cancer, the success has been limited due to the insurmountable nature of the stratum corneum (SC). In this context, for the first time we report the localization of photosensitizer-conjugated upconversion (UC) particles to the deeper dermal region by overcoming SC through an oleogel-mediated transport mechanism for NIR-induced photodynamic production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). We developed soybean oil and stearic acid based oleogels by incorporating photoluminescent white light emitting NaYF₄ (WEN) upconversion (UC) particles conjugated with Rose Bengal (RB), termed as WEN-RB-G. Similarly, we fabricated another type of oleogel by incorporating Li⁺ doped WEN based UC particles (RB conjugated), with 10 times more photoluminescence intensity, termed as LiWEN-RB-G. Based on the skin permeation enhancing effect of the constituents of the oleogels, we demonstrated the permeation of these two types of conjugated particles in microgram scale through the full thickness of the pig ear skin model within 48 h. The localization of the conjugated particles throughout the skin tissue including dermal and epidermal region was confirmed by confocal microscopy. We also conducted a comparative assessment on WEN-RB-G and LiWEN-RB-G for the suitability of ROS generation and bioimaging under NIR activation. The 'proof of principle' concept reported here is expected to frame a gateway in future for NIR-induced photo-theranostics targeting skin cancer.

Natural cyclodextrins and their derivatives for polymer synthesis

A toolbox of cyclodextrin derivatives, synthetic strategies for the preparation of cyclodextrin-polymer conjugates using various polymerisation techniques and representative applications of such conjugates are discussed.

Preparation, characterization, and biological evaluation of retinyl palmitate and Dead Sea water loaded nanoemulsions toward topical treatment of skin diseases

Millions of people suffer from different types of skin diseases worldwide. In the last decade, the development of nanocarriers has been the focus of the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries to enhance the performance of their products, and to meet consumers’ demands. Several delivery systems have been developed to improve the efficiency and minimize possible side effects. In this study, retinyl palmitate and Dead Sea water loaded nanoemulsions were developed as carriers to treat skin conditions such as photoaging, psoriasis, or atopic dermatitis. Toxicity profiles were carried out by means of viability, cell membrane asymmetry study, evaluation of oxidative stress induction (reactive oxygen species), and inflammation via cytokines production with a human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and a mouse embryo fibroblasts cell line (BALB/3T3). Results showed that loaded nanoemulsions were found to be non-cytotoxic under the conditions of the study. Furthermore, no oxidative stress induction was observed. Likewise, an efficacy test of these loaded nanoemulsions was also tested on human skin organ cultures, before and after ultraviolet B light treatment. Viability and caspase-3 production assessment, in response to the exposure of skin explants to the loaded nanoemulsions, indicated non-toxic effects on human skin in culture, both with and without ultraviolet B irradiation. Further the ability of loaded nanoemulsions to protect the skin against ultraviolet B damage was assessed on skin explants reducing significantly the apoptotic activation after ultraviolet B irradiation. Our promising results indicate that the developed loaded nanoemulsions may represent a topical drug delivery system to be used as an alternative treatment for recurrent skin diseases.

Setapar SH, Peng WL, Chuo SC, Khatoon A, Umar K, Yaqoob AA, Mohamad Ibrahim MN. Role of Nanotechnology for Design and Development of Cosmeceutical: Application in Makeup and Skin Care

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that includes the design, characterization, production, and application of materials, devices and systems by controlling shape and size at the nanometer scale (1-100 nm). Nanotechnology incorporation in cosmetic formulation is considered as the hottest and emerging technology available. Cosmetic manufacturers use nanoscale size ingredients to provide better UV protection, deeper skin penetration, long-lasting effects, increased color, finish quality, and many more. Micellar nanoparticles is one of the latest field applied in cosmetic products that becoming trending and widely commercialized in local and international markets. The ability of nanoemulsion system to form small micellar nanoparticles size with high surface area allowing to effectiveness of bioactive component transport onto the skin. Oil in water nanoemulsion is playing a major role as effective formulation in cosmetics such as make-up remover, facial cleanser, anti-aging lotion, sun-screens, and other water-based cosmetic formulations. The objective of this review is to critically discuss the properties, advantageous, and mechanism of micellar nanoparticles formation in nanoemulsion system. Therefore, present article introduce and discuss the specific benefits of nanoemulsion system in forming micellar nanoparticles for cosmetic formulation which become major factors for further development of micellar-based cosmetic segments.

Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability

Vitamin C (Vit C) is a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. However, the biggest challenge in the utilization of Vit C is to maintain its stability and improve its delivery to the active site. Several strategies have been developed such as: controlling the oxygen levels during formulation and storage, low pH, reduction of water content in the formulation and the addition of preservative agents. Additionally, the utilization of derivatives of Vit C and the development of micro and nanoencapsulated delivery systems have been highlighted. In this article, the multiple applications and mechanisms of action of vitamin C will be reviewed and discussed, as well as the new possibilities of delivery and improvement of stability.

Tracing upconversion nanoparticle penetration in human skin

Due to their unique optical properties upconversion nanoparticles (UCNPs) provide exceptionally high contrast for imaging of true nanoparticle distribution in excised human skin. It makes possible to show penetration of solid nanoparticles in skin treated with chemical enhancers. We demonstrated tracing upconversion nanoparticles in excised human skin by means of optical microscopy at the discrete particle level sensitivity to obtain their penetration profiles, which was validated by laser-ablation inductively-coupled-plasma mass-spectrometry. To demonstrate utilities of our method, UCNPs were coated with polymers, formulated in water and chemical enhancers, and applied on excised human skin mounted on Franz cells, followed by imaging using a custom-built laser-scanning microscope. To evaluate the toxicity impact on skin by polymer-coated UCNPs, we introduced a tissue engineering model of viable epidermis made of decellularized chick embryo skin seeded with keratinocytes. UCNPs formulated in water stopped in stratum corneum, whereas UCNPs formulated in ethanol-water solution crossed stratum corneum and reached viable epidermis - hence, the enhancement effect for solid nanoparticles was detected by optical microscopy. All polymer-coated UCNPs were found nontoxic within the accepted safety levels. The keratinocyte resilience to polyethyleneimine-coated UCNPs was surprising considering cytotoxicity of polyethyleneimine to two-dimensional cell cultures.

Mapping Anisotropic and Heterogeneous Colloidal Interactions via Optical Laser Tweezers

Heterogeneity among particles is an inherent feature that allows nondeterministic prediction of the properties of assembled structures and materials composed of many particles. Here, we report a promising strategy to quantify the heterogeneous and anisotropic interactions between ellipsoid particles using optical laser tweezers. The configuration and separation between two particles at an oil-water interface were optically controlled, and the capillary interaction behaviors were directly observed and measured. As a result, the optimal particle configurations at energetically favorable states were obtained, and the interaction forces between the particles were identified accurately by determining the trap stiffness in the direction of major and minor axes of the particle. Visualization of the capillary field around individual particles confirmed that the capillary interactions were quadrupolar, anisotropic, and heterogeneous. The measurement method presented here can be widely used to quantify interaction fields for various types of anisotropic particles.

Ultrasonic nano-emulsification - A review

The emulsions with nano-sized dispersed phase is called nanoemulsions having a wide variety of applications ranging from food, dairy, pharmaceutics to paint and oil industries. As one of the high energy consumer methods, ultrasonic emulsification (UE) are being utilized in many processes providing unique benefits and advantages. In the present review, ultrasonic nano-emulsification is critically reviewed and assessed by focusing on the main parameters such pre-emulsion processes, multi-frequency or multi-step irradiations and also surfactant-free parameters. Furthermore, categorizing aposematic data of experimental researches such as frequency, irradiation power and time, oil phase and surfactant concentration and also droplet size and stability duration are analyzed and conceded in tables being beneficial to indicate uncovered fields. It is believed that the UE with optimized parameters and stimulated conditions is a developing method with various advantages.

Geometric Effects of Colloidal Particles on Stochastic Interface Adsorption

The stochastic interface adsorption behaviors of ellipsoid particles were investigated using optical laser tweezers. The particles were brought close to the oil-water interface, attempting to attach forcefully to the interface. Multiple attempts of the particle attachments statistically quantified the dependence of the adsorption probability on the particle aspect ratio. It was found that the adsorption probability proportionally increased with the aspect ratio because of the decrease in electrostatic interactions between the charged particles and the charged interface for higher aspect ratio particles. In addition, the adsorption holding time required for the interface attachments was found to increase as the aspect ratio decreased. Notably, the probabilistic adsorption behaviors of the ellipsoid particles and the holding time dependence revealed that the particle adsorption to the interface occurred stochastically, not deterministically. We also demonstrated that the adsorption behaviors measured on a single-particle scale were consistent with the gravity-induced spontaneous adsorption properties performed on a large scale with regard to the nondeterministic adsorption behaviors and the aspect ratio dependence on the adsorption probability.

Suitable simple and fast methods for selective isolation of phospholipids as a tool for their analysis

Lipids are gaining relevance over the last 20 years, as our knowledge about their role has changed from merely energy/structural molecules to compounds also involved in several biological processes. This led to the creation in 2003 of a new emerging research field: lipidomics. In particular the phospholipids have pharmacological/food applications, participate in cell signalling/homeostatic pathways while their analysis faces some challenges. Their fractionation/purification is, in fact, especially difficult, as they are amphiphilic compounds. Moreover, it usually involves SPE or TLC procedures requiring specific materials hampering their suitableness for routine analysis. Finally, they can interfere with the ionization of other molecules during mass spectrometry analysis. Thus, simple high-throughput reliable methods to selectively isolate these compounds based on the difference between chemical characteristics of lipids would represent valuable tools for their study besides that of other compounds. The current review work aims to describe the state-of-the-art related to the extraction of phospholipids using liquid-liquid methods for their targeted isolation. The technological and biological importance of these compounds and ion suppression phenomena are also reviewed. Methods by precipitation with acetone or isolation using methanol seem to be suitable for selective isolation of phospholipids in both biological and food samples.

Heterogeneous interface adsorption of colloidal particles

The heterogeneous adsorption behaviors of charged colloidal particles to oil-water interfaces were quantitatively and statistically investigated. Using optical laser tweezers, the particles in a sessile water drop formed in an oil phase were laterally translated toward the slope of the oil-water interface and their attachment to the interface was attempted. The adsorption probability was found to logarithmically decrease as the ionic strength decreased and to depend on the holding time during which an optically trapped particle was held at the position closest to the interface. Non-unity of the adsorption probability at particular salt concentrations and the holding time dependence offer an important clue that the particle adsorption to the interface is not deterministic but stochastic. The stochastic adsorption process can be attributed to the surface heterogeneity of colloidal particles that consequently leads to changes in the electrostatic interactions between the particles and the interface. We also demonstrated that the salt dependence on the adsorption properties of the particles, as measured by optical laser tweezers, was consistent with their bulk behaviors with regard to the stability of particle-stabilized emulsions. Furthermore, we revealed the gravity-induced spontaneous adsorption of the particles to the interface under conditions of sufficiently strong ionic strength.

Nanoliposome improves inhibitory effects of naringenin on nonalcoholic fatty liver disease in mice

Aim: To prepare naringenin nanoliposome (NRG-Nanolipo) and investigate its inhibitory effects on nonalcoholic fatty liver disease (NAFLD). Materials & methods: NRG-Nanolipo was prepared by thin-film rehydration method. Its characterizations and effects on NAFLD in mice induced by methionine choline deficient diet were investigated. Results: NRG-Nanolipo had high-drug loading percentage and showed a sustained release profile. The nanoliposome formulation significantly increased oral absorption of naringenin (NRG). NRG-Nanolipo showed comparable inhibitory effects as NRG crude drug at a dose fourfold lower than the crude drug on NAFLD. Conclusion: It is the first study to report the inhibitory effects of NRG on NAFLD, and the NRG-Nanolipo significantly improved oral absorption of NRG, thus improved liver protective effects of NRG on NAFLD.

Unexpected differences between planar and column liquid chromatographic retention of 1-acenaphthenol enantiomers controlled by supramolecular interactions involving β-cyclodextrin at subambient temperatures

We report the results of experimental work focusing on host-guest supramolecular complex creation between macrocyclic compound (β-cyclodextrin) and 1-acenaphthenol enantiomers (racemic mixture) in liquid phase composed of 35% acetonitrile in water (v/v) at different temperatures ranging from 0 to 90 °C. Experimental setup involved several analytical protocols based on classical non-forced flow planar chromatography (RP-18 TLC plates), micro-TLC (RP-18 W HPTLC plates), column chromatography (HPLC with C-18 and C-30 stationary phases), as well as UV-Vis spectrophotometry and optical microscopy. It has been found that under various planar chromatographic conditions (stationary plates type, chamber shape and volume, development mode, and saturation) non-typical retention properties (extremely high retention) of 1-acenaphthenol at subambient temperatures can be observed. To our knowledge, reported experimental results are in opposition to currently described retention models based on column chromatographic investigation of host-guest complexes (where in case of strong interaction of given analyte with macrocyclic mobile phases additive, which itself is non strongly retarded by stationary phase-close to the retention of dead volume marker, the retention of target compounds is shortened at low temperatures). To explain this TLC phenomenon that may have in our opinion a number of practical applications, especially for selective high throughput separation involving microchromatographic and/or microfluidic devices as well fractionation and extraction protocols (using, e.g., bar extraction systems), several experiments were conducted focusing on (i) acenaphthenol chromatography under different instrumental conditions, (ii) cyclodextrin retention measured as analyte or mobile phase additive, (iii) plate development time under different mobile phases and temperature settings, (iv) various column chromatographic conditions including C-30 and two C-18 stationary phases, (v) UV-Vis spectrophotometry, and (vi) microscopy inspection of precipitated CD-acenaphthenol crystals. Analysis of collected data has revealed that the most probable reasons for TLC retention behavior of 1-acenaphthenol under β-cyclodextrin additive conditions can be associated with (i) solubility changes of created host-guest complex, (ii) kinetics of solid complex precipitation, and (iii) differences in analysis time between planar and column chromatography. Because precipitation phenomenon may have a massive impact on analytes quantification involving macrocycles as the mobile phase additives, our previously reported data concerning a number of low-molecular compounds (mainly steroids and non steroidal endocrine disrupting chemicals) using HPLC methodology based on binary mobile phases without and with β-cyclodextrin and its hydroxypropyl derivative were re-examined and results discussed. Considering these data and the whole data set reported presently, the enhanced model of chromatographic retention driven by host-guest interaction was proposed.

Methylparaben-induced decrease in collagen production and viability of cultured human dermal fibroblasts

Parabens owing to their many advantageous properties are widely applied in cosmetics, food products and pharmaceuticals. However, recent research results have shown that they possess the ability to accumulate in the human body and exert many adverse effects. In this study, the impact of methylparaben (MP) as the most frequently used preservative in cosmetics, on human dermal fibroblasts and collagen production was evaluated. In cells treated with 0.01, 0.03 and 0.05% MP a dose-dependent decrease in collagen biosynthesis was revealed, which was positively correlated with the activity of prolidase responsible for the recovery of proline. Consequently, the concentration of total collagen secreted into the medium was markedly diminished. A similar reduction in expression of the major skin collagen type I at both the protein and mRNA level as well as collagen type III and VI at the mRNA level was also detected. The decrease in the collagen level may result not only from the reduced synthesis but also increased degradation owing to MP-induced activation of pro-MMP-2 (72 kDa). The increase in activity of MMP-2 (66 kDa) was accompanied by a reduction in the inhibitory activity of TIMP-2. In addition, an inhibitory effect of MP on cell survival and proliferation was revealed in this study. The increased expression and nuclear translocation of caspase-3 as well as increased Bax and decreased Bcl-2 expression may suggest MP-induced cell apoptosis. In summary, we have provided new data on the adverse effects of methylparaben on human dermal fibroblasts and the main structural protein of the skin. Further studies on the mechanisms responsible for its action are in progress. Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.

Host-guest interactions between cyclodextrins and surfactants with functional groups at the end of the hydrophobic tail

The aim of this work was to investigate the influence of the incorporation of substituents at the end of the hydrophobic tail on the binding of cationic surfactants to α-, β-, and γ-cyclodextrins. The equilibrium binding constants of the 1:1 inclusion complexes formed follow the trend K₁(α-CD)>K₁(β-CD)≫K₁(γ-CD), which can be explained by considering the influence of the CD cavity volume on the host-guest interactions. From the comparison of the K₁ values obtained for dodecyltriethylammonium bromide, DTEAB, to those estimated for the surfactants with the substituents, it was found that the incorporation of a phenoxy group at the end of the hydrocarbon tail does not affect K₁, and the inclusion of a naphthoxy group has some influence on the association process, slightly diminishing K₁. This makes evident the importance of the contribution of hydrophobic interactions to the binding, the length of the hydrophobic chain being the key factor determining K₁. However, the presence of the aromatic rings does influence the location of the host and the guest in the inclusion complexes. The observed NOE interactions between the aromatic protons and the CD protons indicate that the aromatic rings are partially inserted within the host cavity, with the cyclodextrin remaining close to the aromatic rings, which could be partially intercalated in the host cavity. To the authors' knowledge this is the first study on the association of cyclodextrins with monomeric surfactants incorporating substituents at the end of the hydrophobic tail.

Albumin nanostructures as advanced drug delivery systems

INTRODUCTION

One of the biggest impacts that the nanotechnology has made on medicine and biology, has been in the area of drug delivery systems (DDSs). Many drugs suffer from serious problems concerning insolubility, instability in biological environments, poor uptake into cells and tissues, sub-optimal selectivity for targets and unwanted side effects. Nanocarriers can be designed as DDSs to overcome many of these drawbacks. One of the most versatile building blocks to prepare these nanocarriers is the ubiquitous, readily available and inexpensive protein, serum albumin. Areas covered: This review covers the use of different types of albumin (human, bovine, rat, and chicken egg) to prepare nanoparticle and microparticle-based structures to bind drugs. Various methods have been used to modify the albumin structure. A range of targeting ligands can be attached to the albumin that can be recognized by specific cell receptors that are expressed on target cells or tissues. Expert opinion: The particular advantages of albumin used in DDSs include ready availability, ease of chemical modification, good biocompatibility, and low immunogenicity. The regulatory approvals that have been received for several albumin-based therapeutic agents suggest that this approach will continue to be successfully explored.

Photoinduced Vesicle Formation via the Copper-Catalyzed Azide-Alkyne Cycloaddition Reaction

Synthetic vesicles have a wide range of applications from drug and cosmetic delivery to artificial cell and membrane studies, making simple and controlled formation of vesicles a large focus of the field today. Here, we report the use of the photoinitiated copper-catalyzed azide-alkyne cycloaddition (CuAAC) reaction using visible light to introduce spatiotemporal control into the formation of vesicles. Upon the establishment of the spatiotemporal control over vesicle formation, it became possible to adjust initiation conditions to modulate vesicle sizes resulting in the formation of controllably small or large vesicles based on light intensity or giant vesicles when the formation was initiated in flow-free conditions. Additionally, this photoinitiated method enables vesicle formation at a density 400-fold higher than initiation using sodium ascorbate as the catalyst. Together, these advances enable the formation of high-density, controlled size vesicles using low-energy wavelengths while producing enhanced control over the formation characteristics of the vesicle.

Evaluation of the effect of time on the distribution of zinc oxide nanoparticles in tissues of rats and mice: a systematic review

To evaluate the time effect on the distribution of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) in tissues from rats and mice, a search on the PubMed, Embase, SpringerLink, Scopus, Science Direct, Cochrane, CNKI, Wanfang, and vip databases up to September 2014 was performed, followed by screening, data extraction, and quality assessment. Thirteen studies were included. At 24 h, Zn content was mainly distributed in the liver, kidney, and lung. At ≥7 days, Zn content was mainly distributed in the liver, kidney, lung, and brain. ZnO NPs are readily deposited in tissues. Furthermore, as time increases, Zn content decreases in the liver and kidney, but increases in the brain.

Nanomanufacturing: A Perspective

Nanomanufacturing, the commercially scalable and economically sustainable mass production of nanoscale materials and devices, represents the tangible outcome of the nanotechnology revolution. In contrast to those used in nanofabrication for research purposes, nanomanufacturing processes must satisfy the additional constraints of cost, throughput, and time to market. Taking silicon integrated circuit manufacturing as a baseline, we consider the factors involved in matching processes with products, examining the characteristics and potential of top-down and bottom-up processes, and their combination. We also discuss how a careful assessment of the way in which function can be made to follow form can enable high-volume manufacturing of nanoscale structures with the desired useful, and exciting, properties.