The protective role of melanin against UV damage in human skin

Dryopteris crassirhizoma Nakai.: A review of its botany, traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacological activity, toxicology and pharmacokinetics

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The Dryopteris crassirhizoma Nakai., a commonly used herb, is known as "Guan Zhong" in China, "Oshida" in Japan and "Gwanjung" in Korea. It has long been used for parasitic infestation, hemorrhages and epidemic influenza.

AIM OF THE REVIEW

The present paper aims to provide an up-to-date review at the advancements of the investigations on the traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacological activity, toxicology and pharmacokinetics of D. crassirhizoma. Besides, possible trends, therapeutic potentials, and perspectives for future research of this plant are also briefly discussed.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Relevant information on traditional use, phytochemistry, pharmacological activity, toxicology and pharmacokinetics of D. crassirhizoma was collected through published materials and electronic databases, including the Chinese Pharmacopoeia, Flora of China, Web of Science, PubMed, Baidu Scholar, Google Scholar, and China National Knowledge Infrastructure. 109 papers included in the article and we determined that no major information was missing after many checks. All authors participated in the review process for this article and all research paper are from authoritative published materials and electronic databases.

RESULTS

130 chemical components, among which phloroglucinols are the predominant groups, have been isolated and identified from D. crassirhizoma. D. crassirhizoma with its bioactive compounds is possessed of extensive biological activities, including anti-parasite, anti-microbial, anti-viral, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-diabetic, bone protective, immunomodulatory, anti-platelet and anti-hyperuricemia activity. Besides, D. crassirhizoma has special toxicology and pharmacokinetics characterization.

CONCLUSIONS

D. crassirhizoma is a traditional Chinese medicine having a long history of application. This review mainly summarized the different chemical components extract from D. crassirhizoma and various reported pharmacological effects. Besides, the toxicology and pharmacokinetics of D. crassirhizoma also be analysed in this review. However, the chemical components of D. crassirhizoma are understudied and require further research to expand its medicinal potential, and it is urgent to design a new extraction scheme, so that the active ingredients can be obtained at a lower cost.

ASH1L guards cis-regulatory elements against cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer induction

The histone methyltransferase ASH1L, first discovered for its role in transcription, has been shown to accelerate the removal of ultraviolet (UV) light-induced cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) by nucleotide excision repair. Previous reports demonstrated that CPD excision is most efficient at transcriptional regulatory elements, including enhancers, relative to other genomic sites. Therefore, we analyzed DNA damage maps in ASH1L-proficient and ASH1L-deficient cells to understand how ASH1L controls enhancer stability. This comparison showed that ASH1L protects enhancer sequences against the induction of CPDs besides stimulating repair activity. ASH1L reduces CPD formation at C-containing but not at TT dinucleotides, and no protection occurs against pyrimidine-(6,4)-pyrimidone photoproducts or cisplatin crosslinks. The diminished CPD induction extends to gene promoters but excludes retrotransposons. This guardian role against CPDs in regulatory elements is associated with the presence of H3K4me3 and H3K27ac histone marks, which are known to interact with the PHD and BRD motifs of ASH1L, respectively. Molecular dynamics simulations identified a DNA-binding AT hook of ASH1L that alters the distance and dihedral angle between neighboring C nucleotides to disfavor dimerization. The loss of this protection results in a higher frequency of C->T transitions at enhancers of skin cancers carrying ASH1L mutations compared to ASH1L-intact counterparts.

Virtual screening of natural products to enhance melanogenosis

Natural products have long been an important source of inspiration for medicinal chemistry and drug discovery. In the cosmetic field, they remain the major elements of the composition and serve as marketing asset. Recent research showed the implication of salt-inducible kinases on the melanin production in skin via MITF regulation. Finding new potent modulators on such target could open the way to several cosmetic applications to attenuate visible signs of photoaging and improve the tan without sun. Since virtual screening can be a powerful tool for detecting hit compounds in the early stages of a drug discovery process, we applied this method on salt-inducible kinase 2 to discover potential interesting compounds. Here, we present the different steps from the construction of a database of natural products, to the validation of a docking protocol and the results of the virtual screening. Hits from the screening were tested in vitro to confirm their efficiency and results are discussed.

Mapping and annotating genomic loci to prioritize genes and implicate distinct polygenic adaptations for skin color

Evidence for adaptation of human skin color to regional ultraviolet radiation suggests shared and distinct genetic variants across populations. However, skin color evolution and genetics in East Asians are understudied. We quantified skin color in 48,433 East Asians using image analysis and identified associated genetic variants and potential causal genes for skin color as well as their polygenic interplay with sun exposure. This genome-wide association study (GWAS) identified 12 known and 11 previously unreported loci and SNP-based heritability was 23-24%. Potential causal genes were determined through the identification of nonsynonymous variants, colocalization with gene expression in skin tissues, and expression levels in melanocytes. Genomic loci associated with pigmentation in East Asians substantially diverged from European populations, and we detected signatures of polygenic adaptation. This large GWAS for objectively quantified skin color in an East Asian population improves understanding of the genetic architecture and polygenic adaptation of skin color and prioritizes potential causal genes.

Chemical composition analysis and transcriptomics reveal the R2R3-MYB genes and phenol oxidases regulating the melanin formation in black radish

Melanins are dark-brown to black-colored biomacromolecules which have been thoroughly studied in animals and microorganisms. However, the biochemical and molecular basis of plant melanins are poorly understood. We first characterized melanin from the black radish (Raphanus sativus var. niger) 'HLB' through spectroscopic techniques. p-Coumaric acid was identified as the main precursor of radish melanin. Moreover, a joint analysis of transcriptome and coexpression network was performed for the two radish accessions with black and white cortexes, 'HLB' and '55'. A set of R2R3-type RsMYBs and enzyme-coding genes exhibited a coexpression pattern, and were strongly correlated with melanin formation in radish. Transient overexpression of two phenol oxidases RsLAC7 (laccase 7) or RsPOD22-1 (peroxidase 22-1) resulted in a deeper brown color around the infiltration sites and a significant increase in the total phenol content. Furthermore, co-injection of the transcriptional activator RsMYB48/RsMYB97 with RsLAC7 and/or RsPOD22-1, markedly increased the yield of black extracts. Spectroscopic analyses revealed that these extracts are similar to the melanin found in 'HLB'. Our findings advance the understanding of structural information and the transcriptional regulatory mechanism underlying melanin formation in radish.

Synthesis and evaluation of 3-hydroxyquinolin-2(1H)-one derivatives as inhibitors of tyrosinase

The tyrosinase (TYR) enzyme catalyses sequential reactions in the melanogenesis pathway: l-tyrosine is oxidised to yield L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (l-dopa), which in turn is converted to dopaquinone. These two reactions are the first two steps of melanin biosynthesis and are rate limiting. The accumulation or overproduction of melanin may cause skin hyperpigmentation and inhibitors of TYR are thus of interest to the cosmeceutical industry. Several TYR inhibitors are used to treat skin hyperpigmentation, however, some are ineffective and possess questionable safety profiles. This emphasises the need to develop novel TYR inhibitors with better safety and efficacy profiles. The small molecule, 3-hydroxycoumarin, has been reported to be a good potency TYR inhibitor (IC50 = 2.49 µM), and based on this, a series of eight structurally related 3-hydroxyquinolin-2(1H)-one derivatives were synthesised with the aim to discover novel TYR inhibitors. The results showed that four of the derivatives inhibited TYR from the champignon mushroom Agaricus bisporus (abTYR) with IC50 < 6.11 µM. The most potent inhibitor displayed an IC50 value of 2.52 μM. Under the same conditions, the reference inhibitors, thiamidol and kojic acid, inhibited abTYR with IC50 values of 0.130 and 26.4 μM, respectively. Based on the small molecular structures of the active 3-hydroxyquinolin-2(1H)-one inhibitors which are amenable to structure optimisation, it may be concluded that this class of compounds are good leads for the design of TYR inhibitors for cosmeceutical applications.

Melanin for Photoprotection and Hair Coloration in the Emerging Era of Nanocosmetics

Nanotechnology is revolutionizing fields of high social and economic impact. such as human health preservation, energy conversion and storage, environmental decontamination, and art restoration. However, the possible global-scale application of nanomaterials is raising increasing concerns, mostly related to the possible toxicity of materials at the nanoscale. The possibility of using nanomaterials in cosmetics, and hence in products aimed to be applied directly to the human body, even just externally, is strongly debated. Preoccupation arises especially from the consideration that nanomaterials are mostly of synthetic origin, and hence are often seen as "artificial" and their effects as unpredictable. Melanin, in this framework, is a unique material since in nature it plays important roles that specific cosmetics are aimed to cover, such as photoprotection and hair and skin coloration. Moreover, melanin is mostly present in nature in the form of nanoparticles, as is clearly observable in the ink of some animals, like cuttlefish. Moreover, artificial melanin nanoparticles share the same high biocompatibility of the natural ones and the same unique chemical and photochemical properties. Melanin is hence a natural nanocosmetic agent, but its actual application in cosmetics is still under development, also because of regulatory issues. Here, we critically discuss the most recent examples of the application of natural and biomimetic melanin to cosmetics and highlight the requirements and future steps that would improve melanin-based cosmetics in the view of future applications in the everyday market.

BMP-2 regulates the expression of myosin Va via smad in melan-a melanocyte

Myosin Va (Myo Va) is one of three protein complexes involved in melanosome transport. In this study, we identified BMP-2 as an up-regulator of Myo Va expression using 2-methyl-naphtho[1,2,3-de]quinolin-8-one (MNQO). Our results showed that MNQO reduced the mRNA and protein expression of Myo Va and BMP-2 in melanocytes. Knockdown of BMP-2 by siRNA also affected Myo Va mRNA and protein expression, confirming that MNQO regulates Myo Va through BMP-2. Furthermore, phosphorylation of Smad1/5/8 by BMP2 treatment confirmed that the BMP-2/Smad signaling pathway regulates Myo Va expression in Melan-a melanocytes. Smad-binding elements were found in the Myo Va promoter and phosphorylated Smad1/5/8 bind directly to the Myo Va promoter to activate Myo Va transcription and BMP-2 enhances this binding. These findings provide insight into a new role for BMP-2 in Melan-a melanocytes and a mechanism of regulation of Myo Va expression that may be beneficial in the treatment of albinism or hyperpigmentation disorders.

Incidence, mortality and survival of Merkel cell carcinoma: a systematic review of population-based studies

BACKGROUND

Merkel cell carcinoma (MCC) is a rare, aggressive skin cancer that most commonly occurs in ultraviolet-exposed body sites. The epidemiology of MCC in different geographies and populations is not well characterized.

OBJECTIVES

The objective of this systematic review is to summarize evidence on the incidence, mortality and survival rates of MCC from population-based studies.

METHODS

We searched MEDLINE, Embase, and the Cochrane Central Register of Controlled Trials from database inception to 6 June 2023. No geographic, age or date exclusions were applied. We included population-based studies of MCC that reported the incidence, survival or mortality rate, and also considered systematic reviews. A data-charting form was created and validated to identify variables to extract. Two reviewers then independently charted the data for each included study with patient characteristics, and estimates of incidence rate, mortality rate, and survival rate and assessed the quality of included studies using the Joanna Briggs Institute Checklist for Prevalence studies, Newcastle-Ottawa Scale and Assessment of Multiple Systematic Reviews. We abstracted age-, sex-, stage- and race-stratified outcomes, and synthesized comparisons between strata narratively and using vote counting. We assessed the certainty of evidence for those comparisons using the Grading of Recommendations, Assessments, Developments and Evaluations framework.

RESULTS

We identified 11 472 citations, of which 52 studies from 24 countries met our inclusion criteria. Stage I and the head and neck were the most frequently reported stage and location at diagnosis. The incidence of MCC is increasing over time (high certainty), with the highest reported incidences reported in southern hemisphere countries [Australia (2.5 per 100 000); New Zealand (0.96 per 100 000) (high certainty)]. Male patients generally had higher incidence rates compared with female patients (high certainty), although there were some variations over time periods. Survival rates varied, with lower survival and/or higher mortality associated with male sex (moderate certainty), higher stage at diagnosis (moderate-to-high certainty), older age (moderate certainty), and immunosuppression (low-to-moderate certainty).

CONCLUSIONS

MCC is increasing in incidence and may increase further given the ageing population of many countries. The prognosis of MCC is poor, particularly for male patients, those who are immunosuppressed, and patients diagnosed at higher stages or at an older age.

Skin assessment in congenital untreated isolated GH deficiency

PURPOSE

The separation between the inside and outside through the skin was fundamental for the evolution of prevertebrates, which grow through extrapituitary circuits, to vertebrates, which grow through the somatotrophic axis, namely pituitary growth hormone (GH). and circulating IGF1.Individuals with untreated isolated growth hormone (GH) deficiency (IGHD) due to a mutation in the GH-releasing hormone receptor (GHRH) gene, residing in Itabaianinha, Brazil, are vulnerable to skin cancer and have reduced sweating. However other aspects of their skin physiology are still unknown. Our objectives were to evaluate the number of skin cancers, skin aging, and functional aspects of the skin in this IGHD cohort.

METHODS

Twenty-six IGHD individuals and 26 controls matched by age, sex, ethnicity, and occupation were submitted to a biochemical, dermatological and a functional skin assessment by the Multi Probe Adapter Cutometer® MPA 580.

RESULTS

There was no difference in the number of skin cancers and in the degrees of photodamage between the groups. The melanin content in the forearm was similar between the groups but was lower in the buttocks (p = 0.005), as well as skin resistance (p < 0.0001) and elasticity (p = 0.003), lower in the IGHD. There was no difference in hydration and sebum content between the two groups.

CONCLUSION

IGHD is apparently associated with a neutral profile in terms of skin cancer and photodamage, with similar melanin on the forearm and lower buttocks, lower skin resistance and elasticity, with hydration and sebum similar to controls.

Evaluation of human skin response to solar-simulated radiation in an ex vivo model: Effects and photoprotection of L-Carnosine

Sunlight, and more specifically the UV component, induces several skin damages, including sunburns, erythema and photoaging. The purpose of this work is to set up an ex vivo human skin model to assess the capacity of active principles in protecting skin from the deleterious effects of solar radiation. Ex vivo human skin biopsies were cultured in an air-liquid interface and exposed to solar-simulated radiation (SSR, 300-750 nm). L-Carnosine (0.2% and 2%) was applied topically to be tested as photoprotective compound. The effect on oxidative stress induction, photoaging and skin transcriptional profile was assessed by evaluating reactive oxygen species, advanced glycosylation end products formation and gene expression changes. In our model, SSR increases ROS production and AGE accumulation and affects the expression of genes related to oxidative stress, pigmentation, immunity, inflammation and photoaging. Among these pathways, 11 genes were selected as biomarkers to evaluate the skin solar radiation response. Results showed that L-Carnosine provides effective prevention against solar radiation damages reducing ROS, AGEs and mitigating the modulation of the selected biomarker genes. In conclusion, we report that our ex vivo skin model is a valuable system to assess the consequences of solar light exposure and the capacity of topically applied L-Carnosine to counteract them.

The melano-macrophage: The black leukocyte of fish immunity

Melanin and the process of melanin synthesis or melanogenesis have central roles in the immune system of insects, and production of melanin-synthesizing enzymes from their haemocytes may be induced following activation through danger signals. Melanin-containing macrophage-like cells have been extensively studied in amphibians and they are also present in reptiles. In fish, melano-macrophages are especially recognized with respect to melano-macrophage centres (MMCs), hypothesized to be analogues of germinal centres in secondary lymphoid organs of mammals and some birds. Melano-macrophages are in addition present in several inflammatory conditions, in particular melanised focal changes, or black spots, in the musculature of farmed Atlantic salmon, Salmo salar. Melanins are complex compounds that may be divided into different forms which all have the ability to absorb and scatter light. Other functions include the quenching of free radicals and a direct effect on the immune system. According to the common view held in the pigment cell community, vertebrate melanin synthesis with melanosome formation may only occur in cells of ectodermal origin. However, abundant information suggests that also myeloid cells of ectothermic vertebrates may be classified as melanocytes. Here, we discuss these opposing views and review relevant literature. Finally, we review the current status on the research concerning melanised focal muscle changes that represent the most severe quality problem in Norwegian salmon production, but also other diseases where melano-macrophages play important roles.

Melanin-Ce6-loaded polydopamine nanoparticles-based enhanced phototherapy for B16 melanoma cancer cells

Melanoma is one of the most aggressive and lethal types of cancer owing to its metastatic propensity and chemoresistance property. An alternative therapeutic option is photodynamic and photothermal therapies (PDT/PTT), which employ near-infrared (NIR) light to generate heat and reactive oxygen species (ROS). As per previous reports, Melanin (Mel), and its synthetic analogs (i.e. polydopamine nanoparticles) can induce NIR light-mediated heat energy, thereby selectively targeting and ameliorating cancer cells. Similarly, chlorin e6 (Ce6) also has high ROS generation ability and antitumor activity against various types of cancer. Based on this tenet, In the current study, we have encapsulated Mel-Ce6 in a polydopamine (PDA) nanocarrier (MCP NPs) synthesized by the oxidation polymerization method. The hydrodynamic diameter of the synthesized spherical MCP NPs was 139 ± 10 nm. The MCP NPs, upon irradiation with NIR 690 nm laser for 6 min, showed photothermal efficacy of more than 50 °C. Moreover, the red fluorescence in the MCP NPs due to Ce6 can be leveraged for diagnostic purposes. Further, the MCP NPs exhibited considerable biocompatibility with the L929 cell line and exerted nearly 70% ROS-mediated cytotoxicity on the B16 melanoma cell line after the laser irradiation. Thus, the prepared MCP NPs could be a promising theranostic agent for treating the B16 melanoma cancer.

Melatonin/Sericin Wound Healing Patches: Implications for Melanoma Therapy

Melatonin and sericin exhibit antioxidant properties and may be useful in topical wound healing patches by maintaining redox balance, cell integrity, and regulating the inflammatory response. In human skin, melatonin suppresses damage caused by ultraviolet radiation (UVR) which involves numerous mechanisms associated with reactive oxygen species/reactive nitrogen species (ROS/RNS) generation and enhancing apoptosis. Sericin is a protein mainly composed of glycine, serine, aspartic acid, and threonine amino acids removed from the silkworm cocoon (particularly Bombyx mori and other species). It is of interest because of its biodegradability, anti-oxidative, and anti-bacterial properties. Sericin inhibits tyrosinase activity and promotes cell proliferation that can be supportive and useful in melanoma treatment. In recent years, wound healing patches containing sericin and melatonin individually have attracted significant attention by the scientific community. In this review, we summarize the state of innovation of such patches during 2021-2023. To date, melatonin/sericin-polymer patches for application in post-operational wound healing treatment has been only sparingly investigated and it is an imperative to consider these materials as a promising approach targeting for skin tissue engineering or regenerative dermatology.

Anti-Melanogenic Effects of Takifugu flavidus Muscle Hydrolysate in B16F10 Melanoma Cells and Zebrafish

Abnormal melanogenesis can lead to hyperpigmentation. Tyrosinase (TYR), a key rate-limiting enzyme in melanin production, is an important therapeutic target for these disorders. We investigated the TYR inhibitory activity of hydrolysates extracted from the muscle tissue of Takifugu flavidus (TFMH). We used computer-aided virtual screening to identify a novel peptide that potently inhibited melanin synthesis, simulated its binding mode to TYR, and evaluated functional efficacy in vitro and in vivo. TFMH inhibited the diphenolase activities of mTYR, reducing TYR substrate binding activity and effectively inhibiting melanin synthesis. TFMH indirectly reduced cAMP response element-binding protein phosphorylation in vitro by downregulating melanocortin 1 receptor expression, thereby inhibiting expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, further decreasing TYR, tyrosinase related protein 1, and dopachrome tautomerase expression and ultimately impeding melanin synthesis. In zebrafish, TFMH significantly reduced black spot formation. TFMH (200 μg/mL) decreased zebrafish TYR activity by 43% and melanin content by 52%. Molecular dynamics simulations over 100 ns revealed that the FGFRSP (T-6) peptide stably binds mushroom TYR via hydrogen bonds and ionic interactions. T-6 (400 μmol/L) reduced melanin content in B16F10 melanoma cells by 71% and TYR activity by 79%. In zebrafish, T-6 (200 μmol/L) inhibited melanin production by 64%. TFMH and T-6 exhibit good potential for the development of natural skin-whitening cosmetic products.

Ribosomal S6 kinase 2-forkhead box protein O4 signaling pathway plays an essential role in melanogenesis

Although previous studies have examined the signaling pathway involved in melanogenesis through which ultraviolet (UV) or α-melanocyte-stimulating hormones (α-MSH) stimuli act as key inducers to produce melanin at the stratum basal layer of the epidermis, the signaling pathway regulating melanogenesis is still controversial. This study reports that α-MSH, not UVA and UVB, acted as a major stimulus of melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. Signaling pathway analysis using gene knockdown technology and chemical inhibitors, the mitogen-activated protein kinase kinase (MEK)/extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK)/p90 ribosomal S6 kinase 2 (RSK2) played an important role in melanogenesis. Unexpectedly, LY294002, a PI3K inhibitor, increased melanogenesis without UV or α-MSH stimulation, suggesting that the PI3K/AKT signaling pathway may not be a major signaling pathway for melanogenesis. Chemical inhibition of the MEKs/ERKs/RSK2 signaling pathway using U0126 or BI-D1870 suppressed melanogenesis by stimulation of UVA or α-MSH stimulation, or both. In particular, the genetic depletion of RSK2 or constitutive active (CA)-RSK2 overexpression showed that RSK2 plays a key role in melanogenesis. Interestingly, forkhead box protein O4 (FOXO4) was phosphorylated by RSK2, resulting in the increase of FOXO4's transactivation activity. Notably, the FOXO4 mutant harboring serine-to-alanine replacement at the phosphorylation sites totally abrogated the transactivation activity and reduced melanin production, indicating that RSK2-mediated FOXO4 activity plays a key role in melanogenesis. Furthermore, kaempferol, a flavonoid inhibiting the RSK2 activity, suppressed melanogenesis. In addition, FOXO4-wt overexpression showed that FOXO4 enhance melanin synthesis. Overall, the RSK2-FOXO4 signaling pathway plays a key role in modulating melanogenesis.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids as a Potential Inhibitor of Tyrosinase-Related Protein 1: Computational Screening, Pharmacokinetics, and Molecular Dynamics Simulation

Melanin is the major pigment responsible for the coloring of mammalian skin, hair, and eyes to defend against ultraviolet radiation. However, excessive melanin production has resulted in numerous types of hyperpigmentation disorders. Tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1) is a transmembrane glycoprotein enzyme found in many organisms, including humans, that plays an important role in melanogenesis. Thus, controlling the enzyme activity of TYRP1 with tyrosinase inhibitors is a vital step in the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems in humans. In the present investigation, virtual screening, pharmacokinetics, drug docking, and molecular dynamics (MD) simulation were used to find the most potent drug as an inhibitor of TYRP1 to effectively treat hyperpigmentation disorder. The 3D structure of TYRP1 was retrieved from the Protein Data Bank (PDB) database (PDB ID: 5M8M) and validated by the Ramachandran plot. Pharmacokinetics and drug-likeness showed that mycosporine 2 glycine (M2G) and shinorine (SHI) were the best compounds over other ligands in the same (P-1) structural pose. However, MD simulations of the M2G showed the highest CDOCKER interaction energy (-45.182 kcal/mol) and binding affinity (-65.0529 kcal/mol) as compared to SHI and reference drugs. The molecular binding modes RMSD and RMSF plots have exhibited more relevance to the M2G ligand in comparison to other drug ligands. The bioactivity and ligand efficiency profiles revealed that M2G is the most effective compound as a TYRP1 inhibitor. Thus, M2G could be used as a most effective drug for developing valuable sunscreen products to cure hyperpigmentation-related diseases.

Comparative Analysis of Olive-Derived Phenolic Compounds' Pro-Melanogenesis Effects on B16F10 Cells and Epidermal Human Melanocytes

Olive leaf contains plenty of phenolic compounds, among which oleuropein (OP) is the main component and belongs to the group of secoiridoids. Additionally, phenolic compounds such as oleocanthal (OL) and oleacein (OC), which share a structural similarity with OP and two aldehyde groups, are also present in olive leaves. These compounds have been studied for several health benefits, such as anti-cancer and antioxidant effects. However, their impact on the skin remains unknown. Therefore, this study aims to compare the effects of these three compounds on melanogenesis using B16F10 cells and human epidermal cells. Thousands of gene expressions were measured by global gene expression profiling with B16F10 cells. We found that glutaraldehyde compounds derived from olive leaves have a potential effect on the activation of the melanogenesis pathway and inducing differentiation in B16F10 cells. Accordingly, the pro-melanogenesis effect was investigated by means of melanin quantification, mRNA, and protein expression using human epidermal melanocytes (HEM). This study suggests that secoiridoid and its derivates have an impact on skin protection by promoting melanin production in both human and mouse cell lines.

Melanin Biopolymers in Pharmacology and Medicine-Skin Pigmentation Disorders, Implications for Drug Action, Adverse Effects and Therapy

Melanins are biopolymeric pigments formed by a multi-step oxidation process of tyrosine in highly specialized cells called melanocytes. Melanin pigments are mainly found in the skin, iris, hair follicles, and inner ear. The photoprotective properties of melanin biopolymers have been linked to their perinuclear localization to protect DNA, but their ability to scavenge metal ions and antioxidant properties has also been noted. Interactions between drugs and melanins are of clinical relevance. The formation of drug-melanin complexes can affect both the efficacy of pharmacotherapy and the occurrence of adverse effects such as phototoxic reactions and discoloration. Because the amount and type of melanin synthesized in the body is subject to multifactorial regulation-determined by both internal factors such as genetic predisposition, inflammation, and hormonal balance and external factors such as contact with allergens or exposure to UV radiation-different effects on the melanogenesis process can be observed. These factors can directly influence skin pigmentation disorders, resulting in hypopigmentation or hyperpigmentation of a genetic or acquired nature. In this review, we will present information on melanocyte biology, melanogenesis, and the multifactorial influence of melanin on pharmacological parameters during pharmacotherapy. In addition, the types of skin color disorders, with special emphasis on the process of their development, symptoms, and methods of treatment, are presented in this article.

Type I Diabetes Mellitus Suppresses Experimental Skin Carcinogenesis

This study explores the previously uncharted territory of the effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on diabetic skin, compared to its well-documented impact on normal skin, particularly focusing on carcinogenesis and aging. Employing hairless SKH-hr2, Type 1 and 2 diabetic, and nondiabetic male mice, the research subjected these to UV radiation thrice weekly for eight months. The investigation included comprehensive assessments of photoaging and photocarcinogenesis in diabetic versus normal skin, measuring factors such as hydration, trans-epidermal water loss, elasticity, skin thickness, melanin, sebum content, stratum corneum exfoliation and body weight, alongside photo documentation. Additionally, oxidative stress and the presence of hydrophilic antioxidants (uric acid and glutathione) in the stratum corneum were evaluated. Histopathological examination post-sacrifice provided insights into the morphological changes. Findings reveal that under UV exposure, Type 1 diabetic skin showed heightened dehydration, thinning, and signs of accelerated aging. Remarkably, Type 1 diabetic mice did not develop squamous cell carcinoma or pigmented nevi, contrary to normal and Type 2 diabetic skin. This unexpected resistance to UV-induced skin cancers in Type 1 diabetic skin prompts a crucial need for further research to uncover the underlying mechanisms providing this resistance.

Melanocytes in regenerative medicine applications and disease modeling

Melanocytes are dendritic cells localized in skin, eyes, hair follicles, ears, heart and central nervous system. They are characterized by the presence of melanosomes enriched in melanin which are responsible for skin, eye and hair pigmentation. They also have different functions in photoprotection, immunity and sound perception. Melanocyte dysfunction can cause pigmentary disorders, hearing and vision impairments or increased cancer susceptibility. This review focuses on the role of melanocytes in homeostasis and disease, before discussing their potential in regenerative medicine applications, such as for disease modeling, drug testing or therapy development using stem cell technologies, tissue engineering and extracellular vesicles.

Assessment of Variability in Free Flap Color Match to Facial Skin by Donor Site and Race

OBJECTIVES

To use portable colorimetry to quantify color differences between facial skin and potential three head and neck microvascular free tissue transfer (MFTT) donor sites-radial forearm (RF), anterolateral thigh (ALT), and fibula (FF)-and compare these differences by pigmentation of the donor site skin and self-identified race.

METHODS

In this cross-sectional cohort study, healthy volunteers consented to handheld colorimeter measurements at the three potential MFTT donor sites (RF, ALT, FF) to quantify color match to the facial skin using the CIE color space (DeltaE). The comparison of ipsilateral to contralateral cheek served as control for measurements. Cross-sectional measurements in healthy volunteers were then compared to measurements obtained in postoperative head and neck MFTT patients.

RESULTS

DeltaE measurements were obtained for 128 healthy controls and 24 postoperative patients (N = 152). With increasing lightness (decreased pigmentation) of the skin at the donor site, the color match significantly worsened (higher DeltaE) across all potential MFTT donor sites (all p < 0.05). DeltaE from healthy controls closely approximated postoperative color match measurements in patients who underwent cervicofacial MFTT (DeltaE RF: 5.3 vs. 6.0, p = 0.432; DeltaE ALT: 6.2 vs. 6.4, p = 0.822; DeltaE FF: 6.0 vs. 6.4, p = 0.806).

CONCLUSION

Patients with decreased skin pigmentation who are undergoing head and neck MFTT may experience worse color discrepancy between cervicofacial skin and the transferred skin paddle than those with more pigmented skin. Portable colorimetry may identify patients who could benefit from interventions such as dermis-resected free tissue reconstruction with skin grafting to improve postoperative appearance.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE

3 Laryngoscope, 2024.

Advancements in Laser Therapies for Dermal Hyperpigmentation in Skin of Color: A Comprehensive Literature Review and Experience of Sequential Laser Treatments in a Cohort of 122 Indian Patients

The heightened awareness of ethnic dermatology aligns with the growing prevalence of skin of color communities globally, where hyperpigmentation disorders pose a common dermatological challenge. Effectively addressing dermal pigmentation is challenging due to its resistance to conventional therapies and its association with impaired quality of life. This underscores the need for effective treatments and a thorough grasp of laser advancements. A relevant literature search spanning the last 7 years across the PubMed database reveals core studies, challenges, and the evolution of laser technologies tailored for various forms of congenital and acquired dermal hyperpigmentation in skin of color. This comprehensive review explores the mechanisms, applications, and recommendations for pigmentary laser technologies, highlighting the key role of Q-switched lasers in their established millisecond/ nanosecond forms and emerging picosecond lasers, fractional non-ablative and ablative lasers, Intense Pulsed Light, etc. The summary of evidence includes studies on dermal melanocytosis (nevus of Ota and Hori's nevus), tattoos, acquired dermal macular hyperpigmentation, etc., and also entities with mixed epidermal-dermal components, such as melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The review offers valuable insights for clinicians to make informed decisions based on diagnosis, skin type, and the latest technologies to optimize results and minimize complications, especially in darker Fitzpatrick skin types. In their five-year study with 122 Indian patients, the authors applied specific laser combinations for diverse dermal melanoses, including tattoos, dermal/mixed melasma, acquired dermal macular hyperpigmentation, and dermal nevi. Substantial pigmentation reduction, subjectively assessed by both physicians and patients, was observed across all groups. A one-way ANOVA indicated a significant difference in mean improvement scores across various pigmentary conditions (F = 3.39, p = 0.02), with melasma patients exhibiting a significantly higher improvement score than tattoos (p = 0.03). The results affirmed the safety and efficacy of sequential laser therapy for dermal pigmentation in skin of color, advocating for flexibility in approach while maintaining the rationale behind the laser sequences. Despite advancements, challenges persist, and gaps in the current literature are identified. In conclusion, this summary highlights the ongoing pursuit of optimal protocols in dermatological laser treatments for dermal melanoses, offering valuable insights for future research and clinical practice.

Self-pigmenting textiles grown from cellulose-producing bacteria with engineered tyrosinase expression

Environmental concerns are driving interest in postpetroleum synthetic textiles produced from microbial and fungal sources. Bacterial cellulose (BC) is a promising sustainable leather alternative, on account of its material properties, low infrastructure needs and biodegradability. However, for alternative textiles like BC to be fully sustainable, alternative ways to dye textiles need to be developed alongside alternative production methods. To address this, we genetically engineer Komagataeibacter rhaeticus to create a bacterial strain that grows self-pigmenting BC. Melanin biosynthesis in the bacteria from recombinant tyrosinase expression achieves dark black coloration robust to material use. Melanated BC production can be scaled up for the construction of prototype fashion products, and we illustrate the potential of combining engineered self-pigmentation with tools from synthetic biology, through the optogenetic patterning of gene expression in cellulose-producing bacteria. With this study, we demonstrate that combining genetic engineering with current and future methods of textile biofabrication has the potential to create a new class of textiles.

Photo-neuro-immuno-endocrinology: How the ultraviolet radiation regulates the body, brain, and immune system

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) is primarily recognized for its detrimental effects such as cancerogenesis, skin aging, eye damage, and autoimmune disorders. With exception of ultraviolet B (UVB) requirement in the production of vitamin D3, the positive role of UVR in modulation of homeostasis is underappreciated. Skin exposure to UVR triggers local responses secondary to the induction of chemical, hormonal, immune, and neural signals that are defined by the chromophores and extent of UVR penetration into skin compartments. These responses are not random and are coordinated by the cutaneous neuro-immuno-endocrine system, which counteracts the action of external stressors and accommodates local homeostasis to the changing environment. The UVR induces electrical, chemical, and biological signals to be sent to the brain, endocrine and immune systems, as well as other central organs, which in concert regulate body homeostasis. To achieve its central homeostatic goal, the UVR-induced signals are precisely computed locally with transmission through nerves or humoral signals release into the circulation to activate and/or modulate coordinating central centers or organs. Such modulatory effects will be dependent on UVA and UVB wavelengths. This leads to immunosuppression, the activation of brain and endocrine coordinating centers, and the modification of different organ functions. Therefore, it is imperative to understand the underlying mechanisms of UVR electromagnetic energy penetration deep into the body, with its impact on the brain and internal organs. Photo-neuro-immuno-endocrinology can offer novel therapeutic approaches in addiction and mood disorders; autoimmune, neurodegenerative, and chronic pain-generating disorders; or pathologies involving endocrine, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, or reproductive systems.

Characterization and applications of biomacromolecule structurally similar to glycogen as a dispersion aid and skin protection agent

Glycogen is a naturally occurring or metabolically synthesized biological macromolecule found in a wide range of living organisms, including animals, microorganisms, and even plants. However, naturally sourced glycogen poses challenges for industrial use. This study focused on a biological macromolecule referred to as glycogen-like particles (GLPs), detailing the production methods and biological properties of these particles. In vitro enzymatic production of GLPs was successfully achieved. GLPs synthesized through a simultaneous enzymatic reaction using sucrose had significant changes in their structure and functionality based on the branching enzyme (BE) to amylosucrase (ASase) ratio. As this ratio increased, the GLPs developed higher molecular weights and greater density, solubility, and branching degree while reducing size and turbidity. Structural changes in these enzymes were not observed beyond a critical BE/ASase ratio. Uniformly dispersed curcumin powder was generated in 50 % (w/v) aqueous GLP solution, and the GLPs were non-toxic to human skin keratinocytes at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL. GLPs with lower branching inhibited tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis, while those with more long chains displayed effective UV-blocking. By manipulating the BE/ASase ratio, GLPs were shown to display diverse chemical structures and physical characteristics, suggesting their potential application in the food and cosmetics industries.

Synthetic Polymer Nanoparticles as an Abiotic Artificial Inhibitor of Tyrosinase

An innovative methodology is presented for synthesizing synthetic polymer nanoparticles (TINPs) as potent tyrosinase inhibitors. This inhibition strategy combines the integration of two distinct functionalities, phenol, and phenylboronic acid, within the TINPs structure. The phenyl group mimics the natural monophenol substrate, forming a strong coordination with the catalytic copper ion, significantly inhibiting tyrosinase activity. Additionally, phenylboronic acid interacts with catechol, another tyrosinase substrate, further reducing enzyme efficiency. The shared benzene ring in phenyl and phenylboronic acid enhances binding to tyrosinase's hydrophobic pocket near its copper active site, contributing to potent inhibition. TINPs exhibit exceptional performance, boasting an impressive IC50 value of 3.5×10-8 m and an inhibition constant of 9.8×10-9 m. Validation of the approach is unequivocally demonstrated through the successful inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin production, substantiated in both in vitro and in vivo scenarios. The mechanism of TINP inhibition is elucidated through circular dichroism and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. This study introduces a versatile design approach for developing abiotic polymer-based enzyme inhibitors, expanding possibilities in enzyme inhibition research.

Skin color reporting in squamous cell carcinoma-related randomized controlled trials in top dermatology journals: a systematic review

The objectives are to determine the frequency that skin color is reported in randomized controlled trials (RCTs) involving squamous cell carcinoma (SCC) detection and treatment in leading dermatology journals. A systematic review of RCTs involving SCC was conducted among the top ten most impactful dermatology journals from inception to July 10th, 2023. Studies were included if they reviewed the treatment, prevention, or detection of SCC, involved patients directly and were classified as traditional RCTs. Studies were considered positive for reporting SOC if there was any demographic data in the methods or results of the following terms: Fitzpatrick scale, race, ethnicity, sunburn tendency, or skin of color. Of the 39 studies which were identified, 23 reported data related to skin color data (59.0%). White individuals were the most reported in these studies (56.5%). Subgroup analysis was conducted, and no statistical significance was found for study location, year of publication, or funding source. Skin color impacts skin cancer detection, predominant location of tumors, and recurrence. Less than 60% of high-quality RCTs related to SCC in top global dermatology journals included skin color among the demographic traits of study participants. Subgroup analysis demonstrated no improvement in reporting over the past 2 decades. Further research is needed to understand the reason for low skin color reporting rates among SCC-related RCTs and the impact this has on society.

Exploring Skin Wound Healing Models and the Impact of Natural Lipids on the Healing Process

Cutaneous wound healing is a complex biological process involving a series of well-coordinated events aimed at restoring skin integrity and function. Various experimental models have been developed to study the mechanisms underlying skin wound repair and to evaluate potential therapeutic interventions. This review explores the diverse array of skin wound healing models utilized in research, ranging from rodent excisional wounds to advanced tissue engineering constructs and microfluidic platforms. More importantly, the influence of lipids on the wound healing process is examined, emphasizing their role in enhancing barrier function restoration, modulating inflammation, promoting cell proliferation, and promoting remodeling. Lipids, such as phospholipids, sphingolipids, and ceramides, play crucial roles in membrane structure, cell signaling, and tissue repair. Understanding the interplay between lipids and the wound microenvironment provides valuable insights into the development of novel therapeutic strategies for promoting efficient wound healing and tissue regeneration. This review highlights the significance of investigating skin wound healing models and elucidating the intricate involvement of lipids in the healing process, offering potential avenues for improving clinical outcomes in wound management.

Research Progress on Bioactive Factors against Skin Aging

The relentless pursuit of effective strategies against skin aging has led to significant interest in the role of bioactive factors, particularly secondary metabolites from natural sources. The purpose of this study is to meticulously explore and summarize the recent advancements in understanding and utilization of bioactive factors against skin aging, with a focus on their sources, mechanisms of action, and therapeutic potential. Skin, the largest organ of the body, directly interacts with the external environment, making it susceptible to aging influenced by factors such as UV radiation, pollution, and oxidative stress. Among various interventions, bioactive factors, including peptides, amino acids, and secondary metabolites, have shown promising anti-aging effects by modulating the biological pathways associated with skin integrity and youthfulness. This article provides a comprehensive overview of these bioactive compounds, emphasizing collagen peptides, antioxidants, and herbal extracts, and discusses their effectiveness in promoting collagen synthesis, enhancing skin barrier function, and mitigating the visible signs of aging. By presenting a synthesis of the current research, this study aims to highlight the therapeutic potential of these bioactive factors in developing innovative anti-aging skin care solutions, thereby contributing to the broader field of dermatological research and offering new perspectives for future studies. Our findings underscore the importance of the continued exploration of bioactive compounds for their potential to revolutionize anti-aging skin care and improve skin health and aesthetics.

Subverting the Canon: Novel Cancer-Promoting Functions and Mechanisms for snoRNAs

Small nucleolar RNAs (snoRNAs) constitute a class of intron-derived non-coding RNAs ranging from 60 to 300 nucleotides. Canonically localized in the nucleolus, snoRNAs play a pivotal role in RNA modifications and pre-ribosomal RNA processing. Based on the types of modifications they involve, such as methylation and pseudouridylation, they are classified into two main families-box C/D and H/ACA snoRNAs. Recent investigations have revealed the unconventional synthesis and biogenesis strategies of snoRNAs, indicating their more profound roles in pathogenesis than previously envisioned. This review consolidates recent discoveries surrounding snoRNAs and provides insights into their mechanistic roles in cancer. It explores the intricate interactions of snoRNAs within signaling pathways and speculates on potential therapeutic solutions emerging from snoRNA research. In addition, it presents recent findings on the long non-coding small nucleolar RNA host gene (lncSNHG), a subset of long non-coding RNAs (lncRNAs), which are the transcripts of parental SNHGs that generate snoRNA. The nucleolus, the functional epicenter of snoRNAs, is also discussed. Through a deconstruction of the pathways driving snoRNA-induced oncogenesis, this review aims to serve as a roadmap to guide future research in the nuanced field of snoRNA-cancer interactions and inspire potential snoRNA-related cancer therapies.

Targeted intradermal delivery of alpha-arbutin-loaded dissolving polymeric microneedles visualized by three-dimensional Orbitrap secondary ion mass spectrometry (3D OrbiSIMS)

Hyperpigmentation, a prevalent dermatological condition characterized by melanin overproduction, poses treatment challenges due to the hydrophilicity of alpha-arbutin, a widely utilized tyrosinase inhibitor. This study investigates the efficacy of dissolving microneedles (DMNs) in augmenting skin permeation for alpha-arbutin delivery to the targeted epidermal site. Porcine full-thickness skin was employed in a 24-hour Franz cell study, commencing with the assessment of commercial alpha-arbutin-containing products. Solid steel microneedles (CMNs) from Dermapen® were utilized as both pre- and post-treatment modalities to evaluate the influence of different applications on alpha-arbutin delivery. Additionally, alpha-arbutin-loaded polyvinylpyrrolidone-co-vinyl acetate (PVPVA) DMNs, containing 2 % w/w alpha-arbutin, were fabricated and examined for their permeation-enhancing capabilities. HPLC analysis and 3D Orbitrap Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry (OrbiSIMS) were employed to quantify and visualize alpha-arbutin in various Franz cell components. Results indicate that alpha-arbutin permeation to the skin was restricted (less than 1 %) without microneedle application and significantly increased by 6-fold (4-5 %) with post-treatment CMNs and DMNs, but not with pre-treatment CMNs. Notably, DMNs exhibited a more sustainable and robust capacity than post-treatment CMNs. OrbiSIMS imaging analysis revealed that DMNs visually enhance skin permeation of alpha-arbutin by delivering the compound to the basal layer of the targeted skin location. Overall, this study underscores the potential of DMNs as a promising delivery system for promoting targeted intradermal delivery of alpha-arbutin, providing a comprehensive exploration of various methodologies to identify innovative and improved microneedle approaches for alpha-arbutin permeation.

Kappaphycus alvarezii as a renewable source of kappa-carrageenan and other cosmetic ingredients

Kappa-carrageenan is one of the most traded marine-derived hydrocolloids used in the food-and-beverage, pharmaceuticals, and personal care/cosmetics industries. K. alvarezii (previously known as Kappaphycus alvarezii) is arguably the most important natural producer based on annual production size and near-homogeneity of the product (i.e., primarily being the kappa-type). The anticipated expansion of the kappa-carrageenan market in the coming years could easily generate >100,000 MT of residual K. alvarezii biomass per year, which, if left untreated, can severely affect the environment and economy of the surrounding area. Among several possible valorization routes, turning the biomass residue into anti-photoaging cosmetic ingredients could potentially be the most sustainable one. Not only optimizing the profit (thus better ensuring economic sustainability) relative to the biofuels- and animal feed-routes, the action could also promote environmental sustainability. It could reduce the dependency of the current cosmetic industry on both petrochemicals and terrestrial plant-derived bioactive compounds. Note how, in contrast to terrestrial agriculture, industrial cultivation of seaweeds does not require arable land, freshwater, fertilizers, and pesticides. The valorization mode could also facilitate the sequestration of more greenhouse gas CO2 as daily-used chemicals, since the aerial productivity of seaweeds is much higher than that of terrestrial plants. This review first summarizes any scientific evidence that K. alvarezii extracts possess anti-photoaging properties. Next, realizing that conventional extraction methods may prevent the use of such extracts in cosmetic formulations, this review discusses the feasibility of obtaining various K. alvarezii compounds using green methods. Lastly, a perspective on several potential challenges to the proposed valorization scheme, as well as the potential solutions, is offered.

Designing bioinspired multifunctional nanoplatforms to support wound healing and skin regeneration: Mg-hydroxyapatite meets melanins

Melanin is a multifunctional biological pigment that recently emerged as endowed with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties and with high potentialities in skin protection and regenerative medicine. Here, a biomimetic magnesium-doped nano-hydroxyapatite (MgHA) was synthesized and decorated with melanin molecules starting from two different monomeric precursors, i.e. 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) and dopamine (DA), demonstrating to be able to polymerize on the surface of MgHA nanostructures, thus leading to a melanin coating. This functionalization was realized by a simple and green preparation method requiring mild conditions in an aqueous medium and room temperature. Complementary spectroscopy and electron imaging analyses were carried out to define the effective formation of a stable coating, the percentage of the organic compounds, and the structural properties of resulting melanin-coated nanostructures, which showed good antioxidant activity. The in vitro interaction with a cell model, i.e. mouse fibroblasts, was investigated. The excellent biocompatibility of all bioinspired nanostructures was confirmed from a suitable cell proliferation. Finally, the enhanced biological performances of the nanostructures coated with melanin from DHICA were confirmed by scratch assays. Jointly our findings indicated that low crystalline MgHA and melanin pigments can be efficiently combined, and the resulting nanostructures are promising candidates as multifunctional platforms for a more efficient approach for skin regeneration and protection.

Methylanthranilate, a Food Fragrance Attenuates Skin Pigmentation through Downregulation of Melanogenic Enzymes by cAMP Suppression

Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a botanical fragrance used in food flavoring with unexplored potential in anti-pigment cosmetics. MA dose-dependently reduced melanin content without affecting cell viability, inhibited dendrite elongation and melanosome transfer in the co-culture system of human melanoma cells (MNT-1) and human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT), and downregulated melanogenic genes, including tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 and 2 (TRP-1, TRP-2). Additionally, MA decreased cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) production and exhibited a significant anti-pigmentary effect in Melanoderm™. These results suggest that MA is a promising anti-pigmentary agent for replacing or complementing existing anti-pigmentary cosmetics.

Variations of skin thermal diffusivity on different skin regions

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE

Skin thermal diffusivity plays a crucial role in various applications, including laser therapy and cryogenic skin cooling.This study investigates the correlation between skin thermal diffusivity and two important skin parameters, melanin content and erythema, in a cohort of 102 participants.

METHODS

An in-house developed device based on transient temperature measurement was used to assess thermal diffusivity at different body locations. Melanin content and erythema were measured using a colorimeter. Statistical analysis was performed to examine potential correlations.

RESULTS

The results showed that the measured thermal diffusivity values were consistent with previous reports, with variations observed among subjects. No significant correlation was found between thermal diffusivity and melanin content or erythema. This suggests that other factors, such as skin hydration or epidermis thickness, may have a more dominant influence on skin thermal properties.

CONLCUSION

This research provides valuable insights into the complex interplay between skin thermal properties and physiological parameters, with potential implications for cosmetic and clinical dermatology applications.

Identification of tyrosinase inhibitors in defatted seeds of evening primrose (Oenothera biennis L.) by affinity-labeled molecular networking

The defatted seeds of evening primrose (DE), a by-product of evening primrose oil extraction, are currently underutilized. This study aimed to valorize DE by examining its effects on melanogenesis and tyrosinase activity in zebrafish embryos and in vitro, and an innovative affinity-labeled molecular networking workflow was proposed for the rapid identification of tyrosinase inhibitors in DE. Our results indicated DE significantly reduced melanin content (53.3 % at 100 μg/mL) and tyrosinse activity (80.05 % for monophenolase and 70.40 % for diphenolase at 100 μg/mL). Furthermore, through the affinity-labeled molecular networking approach, 20 compounds were identified as potential tyrosinase inhibitors within DE, predominantly flavonoids and tannins characterized by catechin and galloyl substructures. Seven of these compounds were isolated and their inhibitory effects on tyrosinase were validated using functional assays. This study not only underscores the potential of DE as a rich source of natural tyrosinase inhibitors but also establishes the effectiveness of affinity-labeled molecular networking in pinpointing bioactive compounds in complex biological matrices.

Evaluation of the anti-aging effects of Zinc-α2-glycoprotein peptide in clinical and in vitro study

BACKGROUND

Skin aging, characterized by the deterioration of skin density and elasticity, is a common concern among individuals seeking to maintain a youthful appearance. Zinc-α2-glycoprotein (ZAG) is secreted by various body fluids, and is associated with lipolysis and identified as an atopic dermatitis biomarker. This study evaluated the potential of ZAG peptides, which exert multiple benefits such as anti-aging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We conducted a 4-week clinical trial on patients with noticeable periorbital wrinkles (n = 22) using a ZAG peptide-containing product. The effects of the products on skin density, elasticity, and the depth of periorbital wrinkles were evaluated using Cutometer Dual MPA580, Ultrascan, and Antera 3D CS, respectively. The effect of ZAG peptides on UVB-treated keratinocyte cells was evaluated in vitro to understand the mechanisms underlying its effects against impaired skin barrier function, collagen degradation, and senescence. In addition, the effects of ZAG peptides on cell viability and expression of aging and skin barrier-related genes were assessed using cell counting kit assay and quantitative reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction, respectively.

RESULTS

The patients demonstrated improved skin density, elasticity, and reduced periorbital wrinkles. Further, more than 85% patients scored the product as satisfactory regarding anti-aging effects. Furthermore, ZAG peptides reduced SA-β-gal staining, downregulated the senescence-related genes, and upregulated the skin barrier function-related genes in UVB-irradiated keratinocyte cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Our clinical and in vitro findings showed that ZAG peptides exert anti-aging effects and improve skin barrier functions, suggesting their promising potential as therapeutic agents to combat skin aging and improve skin health.

Ring buckling and C=N isomerization pathways for efficient photoprotection in two nature-inspired UVA sunscreens revealed through ultrafast dynamics and high-level calculations

Sunscreens provide a frontline defense for our DNA against the damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation. The active ingredients in topically applied sunscreens that provide this defense are UV filters, which preferentially absorb or reflect UV radiation before it penetrates the skin and interacts with photosensitive nucleic acids. However, there are concerns related to human and environmental toxicity of current UV filters, and consequently a shift toward nature-inspired, particularly microbial, UV filters. In this paper, new physical insight is provided into the fundamental mechanisms of photoprotection in two synthetic analogs of mycosporine-like amino acid-type UV filters, demonstrating new methods of protection that are distinct from those of current commercial sunscreens, extending previous work in this area. Transient absorption measurements (both transient electronic absorption spectroscopy and transient vibrational absorption spectroscopy) are combined with steady-state studies and high-level computational results to aid our mapping of the experimentally derived lifetimes to real-time photodynamic processes. The conclusions reached here pave the way toward developing new and more efficient biomimetic DNA photoprotectant materials.

Structure prediction from spectra amidst dynamical heterogeneity in melanin

Melanin is a biopolymer pigment that plays a central role in skin photoprotection. Its extensive chemical and dynamical heterogeneity imparts this property through a broad featureless ultraviolet/visible absorption spectrum. Conventionally, the rational design of synthetic photoprotective pigments revolves around establishing the structure-spectra correlation and developing biomimetic materials with desired optical properties. This approach fails to explain the mechanistic details of melanin's absorption spectrum because it arises from an ensemble of structures rather than a local minimum on the potential energy surface. Here, we propose an inverse design approach to elucidate the contributions of dominant chromophoric units in various wavelength domains of the melanin spectrum.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

(2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin Naturally Occurring Shikonin Derivative Ameliorates the α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis via ERK1/2 and p38 MAP Kinase-Mediated Down-Regulation of the MITF Transcription Factor

Cutaneous pigmentation is an important phenotypic trait whose regulation, despite recent advances, has yet to be completely elucidated. Melanogenesis, a physiological process of melanin production, is imperative for organism survival as it provides protection against the environmental insults that majorly involve sunlight-induced skin photodamage. However, immoderate melanin synthesis can cause pigmentation disorders associated with a psychosocial impact. In this study, the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin, a natural product present in the root extract of Lithospermum erythrorhizon, and the underlying mechanisms responsible for the inhibition of melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells and C57BL/6J mice was studied. Non-cytotoxic concentrations of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin significantly repressed cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis in both in vitro and in vivo models (C57BL/6J mice). (2-Methylbutyryl)shikonin remarkably abolished the protein expression of MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1, and tyrosinase-related protein 2, thereby blocking the production of pigment melanin via modulating the phosphorylation status of MAPK proteins, viz., ERK1/2 and p38. In addition, specific inhibition of ERK1/2 attenuated the inhibitory effects of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on melanin synthesis, whereas selective inhibition of p38 augmented the inhibitory effect of BSHK on melanin synthesis. Moreover, topical application of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin on C57BL/6J mouse tails remarkably induced tail depigmentation. In conclusion, with these findings, we, for the first time, report the hypopigmentation effect of (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin via inhibition of cellular tyrosinase enzyme activity, subsequently ameliorating the melanin production, thereby indicating that (2-methylbutyryl)shikonin is a potential natural therapy for hyperpigmentation disorders.

25 [OH] Vitamin D and Intact Parathyroid Hormone in Congolese Hemodialysis Patients: Evaluation of KDIGO Targets

Background

Data on 25 [OH] vitamin D and intact parathyroid hormone [iPTH] in hemodialysis patients are very limited in sub-Saharan African countries. The present study aimed to assess the magnitude of hypovitaminosis D, and to evaluate the achievement of iPTH KDIGO 2017 targets among chronic hemodialysis patients followed in Kinshasa.

Methods

We conducted a multicenter cross-sectional study in 6 hospitals in Kinshasa. All patients followed on hemodialysis for more than 3 months were included. Hypovitaminosis D was defined as <30 ng/mL (insufficiency = 20-29 ng/mL; deficiency if <20 ng/mL) and the targets for iPTH values were based on the 2017 KDIGO guidelines. The determinants for hypovitaminosis D were evaluated by logistic regression.

Results

251 patients [mean age 56 ± 14 years, 72.5% men, 63% hypertensive, 31% diabetic, 100% supplemented with native 25 [OH] vitamin D + CaCO3 were included. Hypovitaminosis D was found in 79.7% (deficiency 47.4%) and was associated with the male gender aOR 2.7 [1.4-5.2], p = 0.004, the low-permeability dialyzer 2.2 [1.1-4.2], p = 0.025 and anemia 3.9 [1.2-12.7], p = 0.022. Only 40% of patients with 25 [OH] vitamin D deficiency had iPTH according to KDIGO targets vs 6% of patients with severe hyperparathyroidism (iPTH > 600 pg/mL), 45% with levels between 16 and 150 pg/mL and 9% a iPTH ≤ 15 pg/mL.

Conclusion

Despite a sunny environment, a large proportion of Congolese hemodialysis patients have hypovitaminosis D, in particular a deficiency. Among them, less than half have target iPTH values. These results show the benefit of regular monitoring of these parameters in order to optimize treatment.

Significance of melanin distribution in the epidermis for the protective effect against UV light

Melanin, the most abundant skin chromophore, is produced by melanocytes and is one of the key components responsible for mediating the skin's response to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Because of its antioxidant, radical scavenging, and broadband UV absorbing properties, melanin reduces the penetration of UVR into the nuclei of keratinocytes. Despite its long-established photoprotective role, there is evidence that melanin may also induce oxidative DNA damage in keratinocytes after UV exposure and therefore be involved in the development of melanoma. The present work aimed at evaluating the dependence of UV-induced DNA damage on melanin content and distribution, using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models. Tanned and light RHE were irradiated with a 233 nm UV-C LED source at 60 mJ/cm2 and a UV lamp at 3 mJ/cm2. Higher UV-mediated free radicals and DNA damage were detected in tanned RHE with significantly higher melanin content than in light RHE. The melanin distribution in the individual models can explain the lack of photoprotection. Fluorescence lifetime-based analysis and Fontana-Masson staining revealed a non-homogeneous distribution and absence of perinuclear melanin in the tanned RHE compared to the in vivo situation in humans. Extracellularly dispersed epidermal melanin interferes with photoprotection of the keratinocytes.

Nanotechnology as a Promising Method in the Treatment of Skin Cancer

The incidence of skin cancer continues to grow. There are an estimated 1.5 million new cases each year, of which nearly 350,000 are melanoma, which is often fatal. Treatment is challenging and often ineffective, with conventional chemotherapy playing a limited role in this context. These disadvantages can be overcome by the use of nanoparticles and may allow for the early detection and monitoring of neoplastic changes and determining the effectiveness of treatment. This article briefly reviews the present understanding of the characteristics of skin cancers, their epidemiology, and risk factors. It also outlines the possibilities of using nanotechnology, especially nanoparticles, for the transport of medicinal substances. Research over the previous decade on carriers of active substances indicates that drugs can be delivered more accurately to the tumor site, resulting in higher therapeutic efficacy. The article describes the application of liposomes, carbon nanotubes, metal nanoparticles, and polymer nanoparticles in existing therapies. It discusses the challenges encountered in nanoparticle therapy and the possibilities of improving their performance. Undoubtedly, the use of nanoparticles is a promising method that can help in the fight against skin cancer.

Integrating skin color assessments into clinical practice and research: A review of current approaches

Skin color classification can have importance in skin health, pigmentary disorders, and oncologic condition assessments. It is also critical for evaluating disease course and response to a variety of therapeutic interventions and aids in accurate classification of participants in clinical research studies. A panel of dermatologists conducted a literature review to assess the strengths and limitations of existing classification scales, as well as to compare their preferences and utilities. We identified 17 skin classification systems utilized in dermatologic settings. These systems include a range of parameters such as UV light reactivity, race, ethnicity, and degree of pigmentation. The Fitzpatrick skin type classification is most widely used and validated. However it has numerous limitations including its conflation with race, ethnicity, and skin color. There is a lack of validation data available for the remaining scales. There are significant deficiencies in current skin classification instruments. Consensus-based initiatives to drive the development of validated and reliable tools are critically needed.

Skin cancer in renal transplant recipients: outcomes from a safety net hospital in Boston

BACKGROUND

Renal transplant recipients (RTRs) are prone to skin cancer due to the immunosuppression required to maintain graft function. Existing studies of skin cancer in RTRs focus on patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I-II, with limited documentation of incidence in skin types III-VI. This study seeks to better characterize skin cancers in RTRs with skin types III-VI.

PRIMARY AIMS

Compare the incidence of skin cancer in RTRs of skin types I-II with skin types III-VI.

SECONDARY AIMS

Explore the association between the development of skin cancer and other contributing factors in RTRs of skin types I-VI.

METHODS

Retrospective chart review of RTRs at a single institution between January 1, 2000 and December 31, 2022. Patients were followed from the date of transplant to the last clinical follow-up or death. 777 RTRs were included in the study, including 245 patients with Fitzpatrick skin types I-II and 532 with skin types III-VI. A total of 48 patients developed NMSCs, 2 patients developed melanoma, and 3 patients developed Kaposi sarcoma.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSIONS

There is a higher incidence of skin cancer in RTRs with Fitzpatrick skin types III-VI compared to the reported incidence among non-transplant recipients of the same skin types, but the incidence remains considerably lower compared to RTR of skin types I-II.

Polydopamine Nanosystems in Drug Delivery: Effect of Size, Morphology, and Surface Charge

Recently, drug delivery strategies based on nanomaterials have attracted a lot of interest in different kinds of therapies because of their superior properties. Polydopamine (PDA), one of the most interesting materials in nanomedicine because of its versatility and biocompatibility, has been widely investigated in the drug delivery field. It can be easily functionalized to favor processes like cellular uptake and blood circulation, and it can also induce drug release through two kinds of stimuli: NIR light irradiation and pH. In this review, we describe PDA nanomaterials' performance on drug delivery, based on their size, morphology, and surface charge. Indeed, these characteristics strongly influence the main mechanisms involved in a drug delivery system: blood circulation, cellular uptake, drug loading, and drug release. The understanding of the connections between PDA nanosystems' properties and these phenomena is pivotal to obtain a controlled design of new nanocarriers based on the specific drug delivery applications.

Light-specific wavelengths differentially affect the exploration rate, opercular beat, skin color change, opsin transcripts, and the oxi-redox system of the longsnout seahorse Hippocampus reidi

Light is a strong stimulus for the sensory and endocrine systems. The opsins constitute a large family of proteins that can respond to specific light wavelengths. Hippocampus reidi is a near-threatened seahorse that has a diverse color pattern and sexual dimorphism. Over the years, H. reidi's unique characteristics, coupled with its high demand and over-exploitation for the aquarium trade, have raised concerns about its conservation, primarily due to their significant impact on wild populations. Here, we characterized chromatophore types in juvenile and adult H. reidi in captivity, and the effects of specific light wavelengths with the same irradiance (1.20 mW/cm2) on color change, growth, and survival rate. The xanthophores and melanophores were the major components of H. reidi pigmentation with differences in density and distribution between life stages and sexes. In the eye and skin of juveniles, the yellow (585 nm) wavelength induced a substantial increase in melanin levels compared to the individuals kept under white light (WL), blue (442 nm), or red (650 nm) wavelengths. In addition, blue and yellow wavelengths led to a higher juvenile mortality rate in comparison to the other treatments. Adult seahorses showed a rhythmic color change over 24 h, the highest reflectance values were obtained in the light phase, representing a daytime skin lightening for individuals under WL, blue and yellow wavelength, with changes in the acrophase. The yellow wavelength was more effective on juvenile seahorse pigmentation, while the blue wavelength exerted a stronger effect on the regulation of adult physiological color change. Dramatic changes in the opsin mRNA levels were life stage-dependent, which may infer ontogenetic opsin functions throughout seahorses' development. Exposure to specific wavelengths differentially affected the opsins mRNA levels in the skin and eyes of juveniles. In the juveniles, skin transcripts of visual (rh1, rh2, and lws) and non-visual opsins (opn3 and opn4x) were higher in individuals under yellow light. While in the juvenile's eyes, only rh1 and rh2 had increased transcripts influenced by yellow light; the lws and opn3 mRNA levels were higher in juveniles' eyes under WL. Prolonged exposure to yellow wavelength stimulates a robust increase in the antioxidant enzymes sod1 and sod2 mRNA levels. Our findings indicate that changes in the visible light spectrum alter physiological processes at different stages of life in H. reidi and may serve as the basis for a broader discussion about the implications of artificial light for aquatic species in captivity.

A comprehensive analysis of clinical and polygenic germline influences on somatic mutational burden

Tumor mutational burden (TMB), the total number of somatic mutations in the tumor, and copy number burden (CNB), the corresponding measure of aneuploidy, are established fundamental somatic features and emerging biomarkers for immunotherapy. However, the genetic and non-genetic influences on TMB/CNB and, critically, the manner by which they influence patient outcomes remain poorly understood. Here, we present a large germline-somatic study of TMB/CNB with >23,000 individuals across 17 cancer types, of which 12,000 also have extensive clinical, treatment, and overall survival (OS) measurements available. We report dozens of clinical associations with TMB/CNB, observing older age and male sex to have a strong effect on TMB and weaker impact on CNB. We additionally identified significant germline influences on TMB/CNB, including fine-scale European ancestry and germline polygenic risk scores (PRSs) for smoking, tanning, white blood cell counts, and educational attainment. We quantify the causal effect of exposures on somatic mutational processes using Mendelian randomization. Many of the identified features associated with TMB/CNB were additionally associated with OS for individuals treated at a single tertiary cancer center. For individuals receiving immunotherapy, we observed a complex relationship between PRSs for educational attainment, self-reported college attainment, TMB, and survival, suggesting that the influence of this biomarker may be substantially modified by socioeconomic status. While the accumulation of somatic alterations is a stochastic process, our work demonstrates that it can be shaped by host characteristics including germline genetics.