Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Open-label topical application of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate and acetyl zingerone containing serum improves the appearance of photoaging and uneven pigmentation

BACKGROUND

Skin photoaging and uneven pigmentation are common dermatological concerns. Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THDA) and acetyl zingerone (AZ) are potent antioxidants that have been shown to have anti-photoaging and anti-pigmentation effects. THDA is a more stable and penetrable form of vitamin C. AZ is an antioxidant derived from ginger which has clinical evidence for improving photoaging. However, no studies have assessed how they may synergistically act on the skin.

AIMS

This study aims to assess whether a serum containing both THDA and AZ can improve photoaging and the appearance of uneven facial pigmentation.

PATIENTS/METHODS

This open-label study was conducted on 35 healthy individuals aged 21-55. All subjects were instructed to use three to five drops of the topical serum (Power-C Serum, Image Skincare, Lantana, FL) daily for 12 weeks. Videomicroscopy and high-resolution photography and various skin biophysical measurements were taken at baseline, 1, 4, and 12 weeks. Outcomes included skin tone and pigmentation, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin smoothness, firmness, and elasticity.

RESULTS

Compared to baseline, the results at 12 weeks revealed significant decreases in skin pigmentation (p < 0.0001), decreased fine lines and wrinkles (p < 0.0001), and increased smoothness (p < 0.0001), firmness (p < 0.0001), and elasticity (p < 0.0001). Additionally, transepidermal water loss was significantly decreased at 4 weeks compared to baseline (p = 0.01), indicating an increased epidermal barrier integrity.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, these findings provide evidence for the combined use of THDA and AZ to address skin photoaging and dyspigmentation changes.

Liposomal Encapsulation of Ascorbyl Palmitate: Influence on Skin Performance

L-ascorbic acid represents one of the most potent antioxidant, photoprotective, anti-aging, and anti-pigmentation cosmeceutical agents, with a good safety profile. However, the main challenge is the formulation of stable topical formulation products, which would optimize the penetrability of L-ascorbic acid through the skin. The aim of our research was to evaluate the performance of ascorbyl palmitate on the skin, incorporated in creams and emulgels (2%) as carriers, as well as to determine the impact of its incorporation into liposomes on the penetration profile of this ingredient. Tape stripping was used to study the penetration of ascorbyl palmitate into the stratum corneum. In addition, the sensory and textural properties of the formulations were determined. The liposomal formulations exhibited a better penetration profile (p < 0.05) of the active substance compared to the non-liposomal counterpart, leading to a 1.3-fold and 1.2 fold-increase in the total amount of penetrated ascorbyl palmitate in the stratum corneum for the emulgel and cream, respectively. Encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate into liposomes led to an increase in the adhesiveness and density of the prepared cream and emulgel samples. The best spreadability and absorption during application were detected in liposomal samples. The obtained results confirmed that liposomal encapsulation of ascorbyl palmitate improved dermal penetration for both the cream and emulgel formulations.

Prospective randomized double-blind comparative study of topical acetyl zingerone with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate versus tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate alone on facial photoaging

BACKGROUND

Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging.

AIMS

To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires.

RESULTS

Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema.

CONCLUSIONS

Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.

Non-Equilibrium Assembly of Atomically-Precise Copper Nanoclusters

Accurate structure control in dissipative assemblies (DSAs) is vital for precise biological functions. However, accuracy and functionality of artificial DSAs are far from this objective. Herein, a novel approach is introduced by harnessing complex chemical reaction networks rooted in coordination chemistry to create atomically-precise copper nanoclusters (CuNCs), specifically Cu11(µ9-Cl)(µ3-Cl)3L6Cl (L = 4-methyl-piperazine-1-carbodithioate). Cu(I)-ligand ratio change and dynamic Cu(I)-Cu(I) metallophilic/coordination interactions enable the reorganization of CuNCs into metastable CuL2, finally converting into equilibrium [CuL·Y]Cl (Y = MeCN/H2O) via Cu(I) oxidation/reorganization and ligand exchange process. Upon adding ascorbic acid (AA), the system goes further dissipative cycles. It is observed that the encapsulated/bridging halide ions exert subtle influence on the optical properties of CuNCs and topological changes of polymeric networks when integrating CuNCs as crosslink sites. CuNCs duration/switch period could be controlled by varying the ions, AA concentration, O2 pressure and pH. Cu(I)-Cu(I) metallophilic and coordination interactions provide a versatile toolbox for designing delicate life-like materials, paving the way for DSAs with precise structures and functionalities. Furthermore, CuNCs can be employed as modular units within polymers for materials mechanics or functionalization studies.

Ex vivo Evaluation of a Liposome-Mediated Antioxidant Delivery System on Markers of Skin Photoaging and Skin Penetration

Purpose

The topical application of antioxidants has been shown to augment the skin's innate antioxidant system and enhance photoprotection. A challenge of topical antioxidant formulation is stability and penetrability. The use of a targeted drug delivery system may improve the bioavailability and delivery of antioxidants. In this ex vivo study, we assessed the effects of the topical application of a liposome-encapsulated antioxidant complex versus a free antioxidant complex alone on skin photoaging parameters and penetrability in human skin explants.

Patients and Methods

Human organotypic skin explant cultures (hOSEC) were irradiated to mimic photoaging. The encapsulated antioxidant complex and free antioxidant complex were applied topically onto the irradiated hOSEC daily for 7 days. The two control groups were healthy untreated hOSEC and irradiated hOSEC. Photoprotective efficacy was measured with pro-inflammatory cytokine (IL-6 and IL-8) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) secretion. Cell viability and metabolic activity were measured via resazurin assay. Tissue damage was evaluated via lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) cytotoxicity assay. Skin penetration of the encapsulated antioxidant complex was assessed via fluorescent dye and confocal microscopy.

Results

Compared to healthy skin, irradiated skin experienced increases in IL-6, IL-8 (p < 0.05), and MMP-9 (p < 0.05) secretion. After treatment with the encapsulated antioxidant complex, there was a 39.3% reduction in IL-6 secretion, 49.8% reduction in IL-8 (p < 0.05), and 38.5% reduction in MMP-9 (p < 0.05). After treatment with the free antioxidant complex, there were no significant differences in IL-6, IL-8, or MMP-9 secretion. Neither treatment group experienced significant LDH leakage or reductions in metabolic activity. Liposomes passed through the stratum corneum and into the epidermis.

Conclusion

The topical application of a liposome-encapsulated antioxidant complex containing ectoin, astaxanthin-rich microalgae Haematococcus pluvialis extract, and THDA improves penetrability and restored IL-6, IL-8, and MMP-9 levels in irradiated human skin explants, which was not seen in the comparator free antioxidant complex group.

Reduction of surface treatment time by combination of citric acid and ascorbic acid while restoring shear bond strength of metal brackets bonded to bleached enamel: a pilot study

BACKGROUND

To investigate the effect of a 50% ascorbic acid with 50% citric acid solution on the immediate shear bond strength (SBS) of metallic brackets after tooth bleaching. The enamel etching pattern and the required quantity of these combined acids as antioxidants following 35% hydrogen peroxide (HP) bleaching were also determined.

METHODS

The stability of the solution at room temperature was assessed at various time intervals. Fifty teeth were randomly divided into five groups: non-bleached (G1), bleached then acid etched (G2), bleached followed by a 10-minute treatment with 10% sodium ascorbate and acid etched (G3), 5-minute treatment with 50% ascorbic acid (G4), and 5-minute treatment with a combination of 50% ascorbic acid and 50% citric acid (G5). Groups G2, G3, G4 and G5 were bleached by 35% HP gel for a total of 32 min. Acid etching in groups G1, G2, and G3 was performed using 37% phosphoric acid (Ormco®, Orange, CA, USA) for 15 s. In all groups, metal brackets were immediately bonded using Transbond™ XT primer and Transbond™ PLUS adhesive, with light curing for 40 s. The SBS was tested with a universal testing machine, and statistical analysis was conducted using one-way ANOVA followed by Tukey's HSD test. The level of significance was set at p < 0.05 for all statistical tests.

RESULTS

Stability tests demonstrated that the combined acids remained effective for up to 21 days. Group G5 significantly increased the SBS of bleached teeth to the level of G1 (p < 0.05), while G3 did not achieve the same increase in SBS (p > 0.05). SEM analysis revealed enamel etching patterns similar to those of both control groups (G1 and G2). Kinetic studies at 6 min indicated that the antioxidation in G5 reacted 0.2 mmole lower than in G3 and G4.

CONCLUSION

5-minute application of the combined acids enhanced the SBS of bleached teeth comparable to unbleached teeth. The combined acids remain stable over two weeks, presenting a time-efficient, single-step solution for antioxidant application and enamel etching in orthodontic bracket bonding.

Formulation of Ascorbic Acid and Betaine-based Therapeutic Deep Eutectic System for Enhanced Transdermal Delivery of Ascorbic Acid

L-ascorbic acid (AA), a potent antioxidant, is commonly used topically in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. However, the incorporation of AA into topical formulations is difficult because of its highly unstable nature and relatively poor skin permeability. In this study, we propose an alternative strategy for improving the solubility and topical delivery of AA through its conversion to a therapeutic deep eutectic system (THEDES). AA and betaine (Bet)-based THEDESs were prepared at certain molar ratios and characterized using polarized optical microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry. Solubility tests showed that AA in the form of THEDES was readily soluble in various polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-propanediol) at a high concentration (approximately 40%). Furthermore, compared to AA alone or the physical mixture of AA and Bet, AA-based THEDES significantly enhanced AA delivery through porcine skin. In an in vivo human study, THEDES-containing serum reduced the markers of aging and induced an even skin tone. These findings indicate the utility of AA and Bet-based THEDES as novel transdermal delivery systems for AA. Furthermore, our approach also showed good extension to developing gluconolactone, a well-known natural antioxidant, and Bet-based THEDES, showing potential application in transdermal delivery systems.

Preparation of VC nanoliposomes by high pressure homogenization: Process optimization and evaluation of efficacy, transdermal absorption, and stability

Vitamin C (VC) possesses antioxidant and whitening effects. However, its effectiveness is hindered by challenges such as instability, impaired solubility, and limited bioavailability hinder. In this study, VC was encapsulated in nanoliposomes by primary emulsification and high-pressure homogenization. The VC nanoliposomes were comprehensively characterized for their microscopic morphology, particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), and encapsulation efficiency (EE). Orthogonal experiments were designed to optimize the optimal preparation process, and the antioxidant activity, whitening efficacy, transdermal absorption, and stability of VC nanoliposomes were evaluated based on this optimized process. The findings demonstrated the high reproducibility of the optimal process, with particle size, PDI, and EE values of 113.502 ± 4.360 nm, 0.104 ± 0.010, and 56.09 ± 1.01 %, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry analysis showed effective encapsulation of VC nanoliposomes with better thermal stability than aqueous VC solution. Besides, the VC nanoliposomes demonstrated excellent antioxidant and whitening effects in efficacy experiments, stronger skin permeability in transdermal experiments and fluorescence tracking. Furthermore, storage stability tests indicated that the VC in nanoliposomes remained relatively stable after 60 days of storage. These findings highlighted the potential use of VC nanoliposomes in a wide range of applications for the cosmetic market, especially in the development of ingredients for skin care products.

Enhanced Physical Stability of L-Ascorbic Acid in an Ionic Liquid

Ionic liquid (IL) technology was used to enhance the stability of L-ascorbic acid (AA). Pyridoxine was selected as the counter cation for anionic AA in IL. After AA was dissolved in water at 40 °C, its ratio decreased to 3.2% after 7 d. In contrast, the IL formulation showed negligible degradation, with almost no loss of AA even after 28 d. These results suggest that the use of IL enhances the stability of AA.

Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Vitamin C is a micronutrient present in high concentrations in normal skin and a highly prescribed cosmeceutical, well known for protecting against ultraviolet-induced pigmentation and regulating collagen production. However, there is a lack of studies evaluating the efficacy of topical vitamin C in photoaging and melasma, with this systematic review being the first to assess the existing evidence.

AIM

This systematic review aims to assess whether topical vitamin C could be effective in reversing photoaging signs and treating melasma.

METHODS

Prospective, randomized controlled trials assessing protocols with topically applied vitamin C in patients with melasma or photodamage were searched in Medline, CENTRAL, and Scopus databases until the 12th of May 2022. Risk of bias was conducted in accordance with Cochrane Collaboration's tool for assessing the risk of bias in randomized trials, using RevMan 5.0.

RESULTS

Seven publications were included, with 139 volunteers in total. Studies that evaluated the topography of skin indicated that the treated skin appeared smoother and less wrinkled, which was supported by biopsies data. On objective assessments of pigmentation, there was a significant lightening of the skin treated. Hydration improved equally in the vitamin C and placebo-treated sites.

CONCLUSIONS

This study revealed that vitamin C is effective in treating uneven, wrinkled skin and has depigmenting properties, but long-term use may be needed to achieve noticeable changes. Q-switched Nd:YAG laser-associated protocols appear beneficial in enhancing vitamin C effects. Topical vitamin C may be a suitable alternative for melasma and photoaging, but more studies are needed to confirm these results and assess the ideal vitamin C concentration.

Stabilization and strengthening of chromium(VI)-contaminated soil via magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and phytase addition

Cr(VI) contamination of soil threatens the environment and reduces soil strength. Therefore, both Cr(VI) stabilization and soil reinforcement should be considered in site remediation for future construction. This study investigated a biochemical treatment process using magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) and phytase. MAP was hydrolyzed via phytase catalysis to produce ascorbic acid (AA) and MgHPO₄·3H₂O precipitation. The AA reduced Cr(VI) into low-toxic Cr(III), which precipitated as Cr(OH)₃ and CrPO₄. More than 90% of the 500 mg/kg Cr(VI) in soil was reduced by 5% MAP (wt% of soil) and 1% phytase (vol/vol of soil water) doses at the geotechnically optimal soil moisture content of 16.8%. The MgHPO₄·3H₂O precipitates filled soil pores and enhanced the unconfined compression strength of treated soil by more than two times. This research reports a novel and practical enzymatically induced phosphate precipitation process for the remediation of Cr(VI)-contaminated soil.

Solid-in-oil nanodispersion as a novel topical transdermal delivery to enhance stability and skin permeation and retention of hydrophilic drugs l-ascorbic acid

l-ascorbic acid （Vitamin C, VC） is the most abundant antioxidant in human skin. But its poor penetration into the skin and unstability limit the application. The aim of the study was to promote the topical skin permeation and retention of VC, increase the stability as well as effectiveness by a novel solid in oil nanodispersion. In the nanodispersions system, nano-sized particles of hydrophilic molecules are dispersed in an oil vehicle with the assistance of hydrophobic surfactants. The optimized formula composed of O170 and S1570 (12.5:1, w/w) showed high EE% of 98% and good stability. FTIR analysis confirmed that there may be hydrogen bond between VC and surfactants. The results of DSC, and XRD revealed that the drug was successfully encapsulated in the surfactants, which maintained the stability of drug. By analyzing and fitting the release data in vitro, the drug release mechanism of SONDs was predicted as a multi-dynamic model. Skin permeation of VC was improved 3.43-fold for SONDs compared with VC aqueous solution, highlighting that the lipophilicity and nano size of the carrier more easily penetrated into the skin. Finally, the photoaging study revealed that topical application of VC-SONDs provided the highest skin protection compared UV and VC aqueous solution treated group which was evident by the normal thick epidermal morphology, no obvious melanocytes and the densely arranged dermal elastic fibers. These results demonstrated that the solid-in-oil nanodispersions may be a potential transdermal delivery system for hydrophilic bioactive ingredients.

Effect of liposomal formulation of ascorbic acid on corneal permeability

Ascorbic acid (AA) has a pivotal role in corneal wound healing via stimulating the biosynthesis of highly organized extracellular matrix components, but its rapid degradation and low corneal permeability limits its therapeutic effects. In this paper, we present the pharmacokinetic properties of a liposomal-based formulation of AA in terms of corneal permeation. Chemical stability, shelf-life, and drug release rate of lyophilized liposome (AA-LLipo) formulation was determined in comparison to free-form of AA solution using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and rapid equilibrium dialysis. In vitro transcorneal permeability was studied using a parallel artificial membrane permeability assay (PAMPA). Ex vivo permeation was examined on AA-LLipo-treated porcine cornea by determining the AA content on the ocular surface, in the cornea as well as in the aqueous humor using HPLC, and by Raman-mapping visualizing the AA-distribution. Our results showed that the liposomal formulation improved the chemical stability of AA, while drug release was observed with the same kinetic efficiency as from the free-form of AA solution. Both corneal-PAMPA and porcine corneal permeability studies showed that AA-LLipo markedly improved the corneal absorption kinetics of AA, thus, increasing the AA content in the cornea and aqueous humor. AA-LLipo formulation could potentially increase the bioavailability of AA in corneal tissues.

Kinetic spectrophotometric assay for the determination of vitamin C in cosmetics following ultrasound-assisted emulsification

In this work, a new analytical approach based on ultrasound-assisted emulsification followed by a photoreaction with methylene blue (MB) and kinetic analysis by UV-vis spectrophotometry has been developed for the determination of L-ascorbic acid (AA) in cosmetic samples. The emulsification of cosmetic samples results in a transparent solution that allows an easy and rapid quantitation by UV-vis spectrophotometry. The emulsified sample is mixed with a MB aqueous solution and this mixture is subjected to irradiation with a tungsten lamp for 5 min (fixed-time kinetic assay). A reduction in the MB absorbance intensity at 664 nm occurs as the concentration of AA increases. The observed change in absorbance intensity was used for calibration and further quantitation using the relationship of absorbance logarithm vs. AA concentration (μg mL^-1). In order to achieve an optimal response, different parameters involved in the reaction between AA and MB were fully investigated. Under optimal conditions, the limits of detection and quantification were 0.04 μg mL^-1 and 0.15 μg mL^-1, respectively. Repeatability and reproducibility, expressed as relative standard deviation, were in the range of 0.4-0.6% and 0.6-1.5%, respectively. Finally, the proposed method was applied to the analysis of 15 cosmetic samples, namely, (i) 12 samples without AA, which were used to carry out recovery studies, obtaining results in the range of 97.5-100.7%; (ii) 3 serum samples containing pure AA among their ingredients, which were used for AA stability studies.

Disorders of hyperpigmentation. Part II. Review of management and treatment options for hyperpigmentation

Key challenges in the management of pigmentary disorders such as melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are their resistance to treatment, tendency to recur after treatment, and the risk of exacerbating hyperpigmentation with many treatment modalities. The second article in this 2-part continuing medical education series on pigmentary disorders focuses on the evidence behind medical and procedural treatments of dyschromias, including photoprotection, topical lightening agents, oral agents, chemical peels, and laser therapy.

Antioxidant Activity, Stability in Aqueous Medium and Molecular Docking/Dynamics Study of 6-Amino- and N-Methyl-6-amino-L-ascorbic Acid

The antioxidant activity and chemical stability of 6-amino-6-deoxy-L-ascorbic acid (D1) and N-methyl-6-amino-6-deoxy-L-ascorbic acid (D2) were examined with ABTS and DPPH assays and compared with the reference L-ascorbic acid (AA). In addition, the optimal storing conditions, as well as the pH at which the amino derivatives maintain stability, were determined using mass spectrometry. Comparable antioxidant activities were observed for NH-bioisosteres and AA. Moreover, D1 showed higher stability in an acidic medium than the parent AA. In addition, AA, D1, and D2 share the same docking profile, with wild-type human peroxiredoxin as a model system. Their docking scores are similar to those of dithiothreitol (DTT). This suggests a similar binding affinity to the human peroxiredoxin binding site.

Antioxidants in Sunscreens: Which and What For?

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation promotes the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and nitrogen species (RNS), resulting in skin damage. Cosmetic industries have adopted a strategy to incorporate antioxidants in sunscreen formulations to prevent or minimize UV-induced oxidative damage, boost photoprotection effectiveness, and mitigate skin photoaging. Many antioxidants are naturally derived, mainly from terrestrial plants; however, marine organisms have been increasingly explored as a source of new potent antioxidant molecules. This work aims to characterize the frequency of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens. Photoprotective formulations currently marketed in parapharmacies and pharmacies were analyzed with respect to the composition described on the label. As a result, pure compounds with antioxidant activity were found. The majority of sunscreen formulations contained antioxidants, with vitamin E and its derivatives the most frequent. A more thorough analysis of these antioxidants is also provided, unveiling the top antioxidant ingredients found in sunscreens. A critical appraisal of the scientific evidence regarding their effectiveness is also performed. In conclusion, this work provides an up-to-date overview of the use of antioxidants in commercial sunscreens for a better understanding of the advantages associated with their use in photoprotective formulations.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy.

Efficient dermal delivery of ascorbic acid 2-glucoside with photoacoustic waves

OBJECTIVE

Ascorbic acid (i.e., vitamin C) is an important antioxidant present in skin. The protective role of vitamin C against photoaging motivated numerous attempts to promote its topical delivery, with a success limited by its chemical instability and poor skin permeability. Vitamin C precursors, such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), that are metabolized to vitamin C by enzymes present in the skin, solve the problem of stability but are limited by low skin permeability. We developed a 2% (w/v) gel formulation of AA2G application (viscosity 4.30 × 10⁴ Pa.s, pH 5.94) and compared its passive dermal delivery with the delivery promoted by photoacoustic waves that transiently perturb the skin barrier.

METHODS

Photoacoustic (PA) waves were generated by laser pulses absorbed by piezophotonic (light-to-pressure) transducers. Pig skin samples were exposed to the 2% AA2G formulation alone or combined with 5 minutes of PA waves. One hour later, AA2G was extracted from the skin and quantified by reverse-phase HPLC. AA2G transdermal fluxes using Franz cells with 760 μm thick pig skin samples were also measured.

RESULTS

PA waves transiently enhanced skin permeability and increased dermal delivery of AA2G. AA2G was released from the formulation nearly quantitatively (92.6 ± 6.2%) in 24 hours, showing a non-Fickian behaviour controlled by diffusion and swelling. AA2G dermal delivery with exposure for 5 minutes to PA waves was compared with passive delivery to pig skin. PA waves increased the delivery of AA2G to the skin by a factor of 15 fold with respect to passive delivery, as measured from skin extracts after 1 hour of contact of the formulation with the skin.

CONCLUSION

5 minutes of exposure to PA waves is a safe and effective method to deliver large quantities of AA2G to the skin.

In vivo evaluation of topical ascorbic acid application on skin aging by 50MHz ultrasound

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a powerful antioxidant capable of acting significantly both in the prevention and treatment of the skin aging process. One way to assess the in vivo efficacy of anti-aging treatments is by using the high-frequency ultrasound (HFUS) skin image analysis technique, a non-invasive approach that allows for a new level of evaluating the effectiveness of dermatological and cosmetic products. The aim of the present study was to assess the performance of a topical emulsion of liquid crystalline structures containing AA using the 50 MHz HFUS skin image analysis method. Twenty-five healthy female participants between 35 and 60 years old were included, all of whom randomly applied a placebo formulation and an AA-containing formulation to each forearm, once a day, for 30 days. HFUS measurements were performed before using the products (T0), two hours later (T2h), and after 30 days of use (T30d). The analyzed parameters included total skin, dermal, and epidermal echogenicity; variation and mean thickness of total skin, the epidermis and dermis; and surface roughness. Statistical analyses were performed using the Friedman test, followed by Dunn's test for comparisons of multiple means (α=0.05). A significant increase in total skin and dermal echogenicity was observed after topical AA application. Our findings suggest that collagen synthesis significantly increased after topical therapy with AA, which was responsible for the increment in dermal echogenicity. This study showed, through the HFUS technique, that the topical use of AA promoted dermal redensification after 30 days of application.

Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate vesicular carriers for topical delivery; preparation, in-vitro and ex-vivo evaluation, factorial optimization and clinical assessment in melasma patients

Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an antioxidant that is widely used in cosmetics in skincare products. Due to the excessive low stability of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations, the stabilized ascorbic acid derivative, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) was formulated as vesicular carriers; ethosomes and niosomes. The aim was to deliver MAP at the intended site of action, the skin, for sufficient time with enhanced permeation to get an effective response. Ethosomes were formulated using a full 3² factorial design to study ethanol and phospholipid concentration effect on ethosomes properties. Niosomes were formulated using 2³ factorial designs to study the effect of surfactant type, surfactant concentration and cholesterol concentration on niosomes properties. The prepared formulations were evaluated for their Entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and % drug permeated. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal formulations were incorporated into carbopol gel and evaluated for their permeation, skin retention and stability. A comparative split-face clinical study was done between the ethosomal and niosomal formulations for melasma treatment using Antera 3 D^® camera. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal gels showed comparable controlled permeation and higher skin retention over their ethosomes and niosomes formulations respectively. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ethosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after one month while MAP niosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after six months. A combination of MAP ethosomes and niosomes could be promising skincare formulations for melasma and hyperpigmentation short and long-term treatment.

A Mixture of Topical Forms of Polydeoxyribonucleotide, Vitamin C, and Niacinamide Attenuated Skin Pigmentation and Increased Skin Elasticity by Modulating Nuclear Factor Erythroid 2-like 2

It is well-known that increased oxidative stress caused by ultraviolet B (UV-B) radiation induces melanogenesis and activates metalloproteinases (MMPs), which degrade collagen and elastin fibers, leading to decreased skin elasticity. Various antioxidant agents, such as vitamin C and niacinamide, have been evaluated for use as treatments for photoaging or skin pigmentation. In this study, we evaluated the ability of a topical liquid formula of polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), vitamin C, and niacinamide (PVN) delivered via a microneedling therapy system (MTS) to attenuate photoaging and pigmentation by increasing nuclear factor erythroid 2-like 2 (NRF2)/heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and decreasing MMP expression in a UV-B-radiated animal model. The effects of the PVN were compared with those of individual PDRN and hydroquinone (HQ) compounds. The expression of NRF2/HO-1 significantly increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated animal skin. The activity of nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate hydrogen oxidase decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and the superoxide dismutase activity increased. The expression of tumor protein p53 and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor and tyrosinase activity decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN, and this decrease was accompanied by decreased melanin content in the skin. The expression of nuclear factor kappa-light-chain enhancer of activated B cells and MMP2/3/9 decreased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN in UV-B-radiated skin. However, the expression of collagen type I α1 chain and the amount of collagen fibers that were evaluated by Masson’s trichrome staining increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. The contents of elastin fibers, fibrillin 1/2 and fibulin 5 increased in response to HQ, PDRN, and PVN. In conclusion, PVN delivered via MTS led to decreased melanogenesis and destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by MMPs, and, thus, PVN decreased skin pigmentation and increased skin elasticity.

Rapid determination of L-ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to develop and validate a rapid, simple, accurate, and precise analytical method for the quantification of L-AA in vitamin C serums. Moreover, the developed method was further applied to determine L-AA in eight different brands of vitamin C serums. A complementary study was also carried out to evaluate the stability of L-AA in the vitamin C serum samples after 15, 30, 45, and 60 days of storage at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC).

METHODS

Ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) was applied.

RESULTS

Quantitative analyses were performed with a total chromatographic run time of 1.5 min by matrix-matched calibration, and the analytical curve was linear over the range of 1-1700 μg L^-1 with a correlation coefficient of 0.9998. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) were 0.3 and 1.0 μg L^-1 , respectively. Intra- and inter-assay precisions, expressed in terms of relative standard deviation (RSD), ranged from 0.3% and 2.2%, respectively, and recoveries in two concentration levels (1 and 5 µg L^-1 ) were 103.9% and 101.2%, respectively. The proposed analytical method was successfully applied to determine de L-AA content of eight commercial vitamin C serum samples. The stability of the target analyte in samples stored at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC) was evaluated throughout 60 days with a 15-day interval between analyses. At 0 days, L-AA content in samples ranged from 1.05 - 169.91 mg L^-1 , decreasing over time.

CONCLUSION

The proposed method could be powerful in routine analyses to ensure the quality of L-AA vitamin C serums since it proved a simple, reliable, fast, precise, accurate, and sensitive analytical method.

Detachable dissolvable microneedles: intra-epidermal and intradermal diffusion, effect on skin surface, and application in hyperpigmentation treatment

Delivering bioactive compounds into skin tissue has long been a challenge. Using ex vivo porcine and rat skins, here we demonstrate that a detachable dissolvable microneedle (DDMN) array, a special dissolvable microneedle that allows needle detachment from the base within 2 min post administration, can effectively embed a model compound into epidermis and dermis. Diffusion of the compound from the needle embedding sites to the nearby skin tissue is demonstrated at various post administration periods. The relationship between the time that a conventional dissolvable microneedle array is left on skin without needle detachment from the base and the degree of skin surface abrasion at each microneedle penetration spot is also demonstrated on skin of human volunteers. Co-loading glutathione with vitamin C (vitC) can stabilize vitC in the DDMN. DDMN loaded with vitC and glutathione can help erasing post-acne-hyperpigmentation spots.

Pharmacology of Aesthetic Medicines

The realm of aesthetic medicine is broad, and there are countless medications and topical agents used in the practice of aesthetic medicine. The most commonly used injectable medicines include botulinum toxin for mimetic lines and hyaluronic acid fillers for deeper facial rhytids and volume rejuvenation. Topical aesthetic medicines are useful adjuncts for facial rejuvenation and commonly include tretinoin, hydroquinone, growth factors, and vitamin C, as well as a wide range of chemical peels.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin

OBJECTIVE

Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.

METHODS

Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.

CONCLUSION

A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

A review of topical vitamin C derivatives and their efficacy

Vitamin C is a popular ingredient in over-the-counter cosmeceuticals due to its many biological functions in maintaining and improving skin health by treating UV damage, improving discoloration, and boosting collagen production. Several chemically modified derivatives of vitamin C have been developed in an attempt to increase the stability, percutaneous absorption, and overall activity of this ingredient in topical formulations. The goal of this review is to evaluate the differences between vitamin C derivatives that have been designed for cosmeceutical use and their efficacy.

The anti-melanogenic effects of 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid via Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes and autophagy induction in melanocytes

3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid (EAA) is an ether-derivative of ascorbic acid, known to inhibit tyrosinase activity, and is widely used in skincare formulations. Nevertheless, the molecular mechanisms underlying the EAA's effects are poorly understood. Here, the anti-melanogenic activity of EAA was demonstrated through Nrf2-mediated α-MSH inhibition in UVA-irradiated keratinocytes (HaCaT) and autophagy induction and inhibition of α-MSH-stimulated melanogenesis in melanocytes (B16F10). EAA pretreatment increased the HaCaT cell viability but suppressed ROS-mediated p53/POMC/α-MSH pathways in UVA-irradiated cells. Further, the conditioned medium from EAA-pretreated and UVA-irradiated HaCaT cells suppressed the MITF-CREB-tyrosinase pathways leading to the inhibition of melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells. EAA treatment increased nuclear Nrf2 translocation via the p38, PKC, and ROS pathways leading to HO-1, γ-GCLC, and NQO-1 antioxidant expression in HaCaT cells. However, Nrf2 silencing reduced the EAA-mediated anti-melanogenic activity, evidenced by impaired antioxidant gene expression and uncontrolled ROS (H₂0₂) generation following UVA irradiation. In B16F10 cells, EAA-induced autophagy was shown by enhanced LC3-II levels, AVO formation, Beclin-1 upregulation, and activation of p62/SQSTM1. Further, EAA-induced anti-melanogenic activity was substantially decreased in autophagy inhibitor (3-MA) pretreated or LC3 knockdown B16F10 cells. Notably, transmission electron microscopy data showed increased melanosome-engulfing autophagosomes in EAA-treated B16F10 cells. Moreover, EAA also down-regulated MC1R, TRP-1/-2, tyrosinase expressions, and melanin synthesis by suppressing the cAMP-CREB-mediated MITF expression in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-MSH. In vivo studies on the zebrafish model further confirmed that EAA inhibited tyrosinase expression/activity and endogenous pigmentation. In conclusion, 3-O-ethyl ascorbic acid is an effective skin-whitening agent and could be used as a topical agent for cosmetic purposes.

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) Degrades Rapidly under Oxidative Stress but Can Be Stabilized by Acetyl Zingerone to Enhance Collagen Production and Antioxidant Effects

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDC) is an L-ascorbic acid precursor with improved stability and ability to penetrate the epidermis. The stability and transdermal penetration of THDC, however, may be compromised by the oxidant-rich environment of human skin. In this study, we show that THDC is a poor antioxidant that degrades rapidly when exposed to singlet oxygen. This degradation, however, was prevented by combination with acetyl zingerone (AZ) as a stabilizing antioxidant. As a standalone ingredient, THDC led to unexpected activation of type I interferon signaling, but this pro-inflammatory effect was blunted in the presence of AZ. Moreover, the combination of THDC and AZ increased expression of genes associated with phospholipid homeostasis and keratinocyte differentiation, along with repression of MMP1 and MMP7 expression, inhibition of MMP enzyme activity, and increased production of collagen proteins by dermal fibroblasts. Lastly, whereas THDC alone reduced viability of keratinocytes exposed to oxidative stress, this effect was completely abrogated by the addition of AZ to THDC. These results show that AZ is an effective antioxidant stabilizer of THDC and that combination of these products may improve ascorbic acid delivery. This provides a step towards reaching the full potential of ascorbate as an active ingredient in topical preparations.

A split-face study evaluating the efficacy of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation

Background This study aimed to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a topical antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol after 1064-nm picosecond neodymium-doped yttrium aluminum garnet (Nd:YAG) laser treatment for environment-induced skin pigmentation.Methods A split-face study was conducted between December 2020 and March 2021 in 26 patients (25 women and one man) who were treated with a 1064-nm picosecond Nd:YAG laser. On the right side of the face, an antioxidant cream containing tocotrienol was applied after picosecond laser treatment, and on the left side, only picosecond laser treatment was performed. We compared the right and left sides of the face at 4 weeks after laser treatment using an automatic skin analysis device to investigate skin pigmentation. The melasma severity scores of the two sides were evaluated before and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment.Results The skin pigmentation score showed a significant difference between pretreatment and 4 weeks after picosecond laser treatment on both sides of the face (P<0.001), and there was a significant difference in skin pigmentation score improvement between the right and left sides (P<0.001). The melasma severity score showed a significant difference on the right side between pretreatment and 4 weeks after laser treatment (P<0.001), but there was no significant change on the left side (P>0.05).Conclusions Our results show that, for the treatment of environment-induced skin pigmentation, the application of a tocotrienol-containing antioxidant cream after 1064-nm picosecond laser treatment can provide good results without any complications.

Sustained effect of two antioxidants (oxothiazolidine and δ-tocopheryl glucoside) for immediate and long-term sun protection in a sunscreen emulsion based on their different penetrating properties

OBJECTIVE

We investigated the dermal bioavailability and antioxidative properties of a sunscreen formulation containing two antioxidants, oxothiazolidine (OTZ) and δ-tocopheryl glucoside (DTG). OTZ reacts directly with reactive oxygen species to form taurine, while DTG is metabolized in δ-tocopherol to achieve antioxidative activities.

METHODS

After topical application to a hair follicle-derived reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model, followed by solar-simulated radiation, kinetics of bioavailability and antioxidative responses were measured over 24 h. Markers for oxidative stress were malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase activities.

RESULTS

The two antioxidants had different bioavailability profiles: OTZ was rapidly and extensively absorbed, whereas DTG was slowly absorbed and converted to δ-tocopherol. Compared to OTZ alone, the protection against effects on MDA levels and SOD and catalase activities was higher when DTG was used alone or in combination with OTZ. When used in combination, the degree of protection increased over time and remained constant over 24 h with maximal protection 2 h post-irradiation. DTG slowly penetrated into the skin and was present in the skin at all post-irradiation timepoints, thus allowing a slow but constant supply of δ-tocopherol over at least 24 h. By contrast, the oxidative protection by OTZ was immediate but short-lived due to its rapid penetration through the RHE and into the receptor fluid.

CONCLUSION

These results indicate a complementary sunlight protective action of OTZ and DTG with an immediate delivery of OTZ just after topical application of the formulation, and a prolonged skin delivery of δ-tocopherol from the slower penetration and metabolism of DTG.

Facial Treatment with 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid for Improvement of Skin Texture: Uptake, Effectiveness, and In Vitro Carcinogenicity Assessment

Ascorbic acid (AA) is a water-soluble vitamin that is found at high concentrations in normal skin. The important and well-known benefits of using AA in skin health include the stimulation of collagen synthesis and the assistance of protection against photo-oxidative damages. To maintain stability and improve drug delivery to the active site, a variety of AA derivatives have been chemically synthesized. Among these compounds, we focus here on a lipophilic derivative, 3-O-cetyl ascorbic acid (3-CetylAA), which remains poorly characterized for cosmetic applications. Uptake analysis in three healthy human volunteers’ skin was conducted using a serial tape-stripping technique detecting 3-CetylAA (on average, 128 ± 27 pmol per µg) in the stratum corneum after a 5-h topical treatment when treated with 25 mM 3-CetylAA-containing cream for 13 days twice daily and continuously. Time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) imaging of vertical cryosections of pig skin revealed the presence of 3-CetylAA in the epidermal layer after topical treatment with 3-CetylAA-containing cream. In sun-exposed human skin, 3-CetylAA improved the texture after treatment with 25 mM 3-CetylAA-containing cream for 4 weeks or more when used twice daily or continuously. An in vitro transformation assay using BALB/c 3T3 A31-1-1 cells demonstrated that 10 µM 3-CetylAA, which is the same concentration exhibited in vitro biological activities in another lipophilic AA derivative, 2-O-octadecyl ascorbic acid, was non-carcinogenic and did not potentiate the UVC-induced transformation frequency when applied for 3 days after UVC irradiation. These results demonstrate that 3-CetylAA is a promising candidate as a lipophilic derivative of AA for cosmetic purposes.

The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.

The application of pharmaceutical quality by design concepts to evaluate the antioxidant and antimicrobial properties of a preservative system including desferrioxamine

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the present study was to investigate the antioxidant and antimicrobial activities of a conventional preservative system containing desferrioxamine mesylate (DFO) and optimize the composition of the system through mathematical models.

METHODS

Different combinations of ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), sodium metabisulfite (SM), DFO and methylparaben (MP) were prepared using factorial design of experiments. The systems were added to ascorbic acid (AA) solution and the AA content over time, at room temperature and at 40 °C was determined by volumetric assay. The systems were also evaluated for antioxidant activity by a fluorescence-based assay. Antimicrobial activity was assessed by microdilution technique and photometric detection against Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans and Aspergillus brasiliensis. A multi-criteria decision approach was adopted to optimize all responses by desirability functions.

RESULTS

DFO did not extend the stability of AA over time, but displayed a better ability than EDTA to block the pro-oxidant activity of iron. DFO had a positive interaction with MP in microbial growth inhibition. The mathematical models showed adequate capacity to predict the responses. Statistical optimization aiming to meet the quality specifications of the ascorbic acid solution indicated that the presence of DFO in the composition allows to decrease the concentrations of EDTA, SM and MP.

CONCLUSION

DFO was much more effective than EDTA in preventing iron-catalyzed oxidation. In addition, DFO improved the inhibitory response of most microorganisms tested. The Quality by Design concepts aided in predicting an optimized preservative system with reduced levels of conventional antioxidants and preservatives, suggesting DFO as a candidate for multifunctional excipient.

Vitamins and Uterine Fibroids: Current Data on Pathophysiology and Possible Clinical Relevance

Uterine fibroid (UF) is the most common benign tumor pathology of the female reproductive organs. UFs constitute the main reason for a hysterectomy and hospitalization due to gynecological conditions. UFs consist of uterine smooth muscle immersed in a large amount of extracellular matrix (ECM). Genetic studies have demonstrated that UFs are monoclonal tumors originating from the myometrial stem cells that have underwent specific molecular changes to tumor initiating stem cells which proliferate and differentiate later under the influence of steroid hormones. There is growing interest in the role of micronutrients, for example, vitamins, in UFs. This article is a comprehensive review of publications regarding the available data concerning the role of vitamins in the biology and management of UFs. In summary, the results showed that some vitamins are important in the biology and pathophysiology of UFs. For example, vitamins A and D deserve particular attention following studies of their influence on the treatment of UF tumors. Vitamins B3, C, and E have not been as widely studied as the abovementioned vitamins. However, more research could reveal their potential role in UF biology.

Comparative physicochemical stability and clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of transdermal emulgel preparations of 5% sodium ascorbyl phosphate and or ascorbic acid on human volunteers

OBJECTIVES

Antioxidant containing cosmeceuticals are commonly prescribed products in treating wrinkles and revitalizing the skin. The aim of this study was the comparative evaluation of physicochemical stability and clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of transdermal emulgel preparations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) and ascorbic acid (AA) on human volunteers.

METHODS

Emulgel preparations containing 5% of (SAP) and or (AA) were prepared. HPLC analysis was performed for stability evaluations. Clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of the formulations was examined on human healthy volunteers in crow's feet area. Elasticity and digital images were recorded before and after treatment.

RESULTS

Formulations with added antioxidants and kept in the refrigerator exhibited better stability characteristics. Two-sided blind study and placebo-controlled study showed that both actives were effective in wrinkles depth reduction and also elasticity enhancement but statistically significant difference in the efficacy of the products was not observed.

CONCLUSION

Formulations containing (AA) and or (SAP) both improved elasticity and wrinkles of the skin almost by the same extent, and it is necessary to add antioxidant stabilizing agents to both preparations to reach a desired stability.

Physical Properties of an Ionic Liquid Composed of Two Water-Soluble Vitamins and Enhanced Skin Permeation of Both Vitamins

: A highly viscous substance was prepared by evaporating an ethanol solution containing two hydrophilic vitamins; vitamin C, and vitamin B6. The viscous substance and physical mixture of the two vitamins were tested using a differential scanning calorimeter and an X-ray diffractometer. The highly viscous substance was found to be a liquid crystal (LC) made of these two hydrophilic vitamins. Determination by proton nuclear magnetic resonance measurement suggested that intramolecular hydrogen bonding in vitamin B6 was eliminated by the LC formation. This LC compound showed high solubility in 1,3-butanediol (almost 87%). Much higher skin permeation of both vitamin C and B6 was also observed from the LC compound than that from the physical mixture. The present LC compound containing vitamin C and vitamin B6 may be useful for pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications.

Paper-Based Electrochemical Devices for the Pharmaceutical Field: State of the Art and Perspectives

The current international pharmaceutical scenario encompasses several steps in drug production, with complex and extremely long procedures. In the last few decades, scientific research has been trying to offer valid and reliable solutions to replace or support conventional techniques, in order to facilitate drug development procedures. These innovative approaches may have extremely positive effects in the production chain, supplying fast, and cost-effective quality as well as safety tests on active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and their excipients. In this context, the exploitation of electrochemical paper-based analytical devices (ePADs) is still in its infancy, but is particularly promising in the detection of APIs and excipients in tablets, capsules, suppositories, and injections, as well as for pharmacokinetic bioanalysis in real samples.

PF-127 hydrogel plus sodium ascorbyl phosphate improves Wharton's jelly mesenchymal stem cell-mediated skin wound healing in mice

Background

Factors such as poor engraftment, retention, and survival of the transplanted stem cells are deemed to limit their therapeutic efficacy for wound regeneration. Hence, it is necessary to explore these issues in order to resolve them. In this study, we aim to investigate the role of Pluronic F-127 (PF-127) hydrogel plus antioxidant sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) in enhancing Wharton’s jelly mesenchymal stem cell (WJMSC)-mediated effectiveness on full-thickness skin wound healing in mice.

Methods

First, the cytotoxicity of PF-127 and the biological effect of SAP on the survival of WJMSCs were tested in vitro using cell viability and proliferation assays. Next, a cell suspension containing WJMSCs, PF-127, and SAP was topically administered onto an 8-mm diameter excisional full-thickness wound bed. Eight days after transplantation, the mice were sacrificed and the skin tissue was excised for histological and immunohistochemical analysis. Finally, in vivo distribution of transplanted WJMSCs was traced to investigate cell engraftment and the potential therapeutic mechanism.

Results

PF-127 was found to be cytotoxic to WJMSCs while SAP significantly improved the survival of PF-127-embedded WJMSCs. When this combination was topically transplanted onto the wound bed, wound healing was facilitated and dermis regeneration was achieved on the 8th day after surgery, as evidenced by an increase in dermal thickness, newly developed hair follicles, and collagen fiber deposition accompanied by a reduction in scar width. Further, immunohistochemical analysis demonstrated a higher number of anti-inflammatory M2 macrophages, proliferating cells, and newly formed blood vessels in the WJMSCs/PF-127/SAP group relative to all other groups. In addition, in vivo tracking results revealed a highly enhanced engraftment of WJMSCs accumulated in the dermis in the WJMSCs/PF-127/SAP group.

Conclusions

SAP significantly improves the survival of WJMSCs in PF-127 encapsulation. Further, PF-127 plus SAP is an effective combination that enhances WJMSC engraftment in the dermis, which then promotes full-thickness wound healing through potential M2 macrophage formation and angiogenesis.