Photoprotection of human skin beyond ultraviolet radiation

Predicting the evolution of clinical skin aging in a multi-ethnic population: Developing causal Bayesian networks using dermatological expertise

INTRODUCTION

Software to predict the impact of aging on physical appearance is increasingly popular. But it does not consider the complex interplay of factors that contribute to skin aging.

OBJECTIVES

To predict the +15-year progression of clinical signs of skin aging by developing Causal Bayesian Belief Networks (CBBNs) using expert knowledge from dermatologists.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Structures and conditional probability distributions were elicited worldwide from dermatologists with experience of at least 15 years in aesthetics. CBBN models were built for all phototypes and for ages ranging from 18 to 65 years, focusing on wrinkles, pigmentary heterogeneity and facial ptosis. Models were also evaluated by a group of independent dermatologists ensuring the quality of prediction of the cumulative effects of extrinsic and intrinsic skin aging factors, especially the distribution of scores for clinical signs 15 years after the initial assessment.

RESULTS

For easiness, only models on African skins are presented in this paper. The forehead wrinkle evolution model has been detailed. Specific atlas and extrinsic factors of facial aging were used for this skin type. But the prediction method has been validated for all phototypes, and for all clinical signs of facial aging.

CONCLUSION

This method proposes a skin aging model that predicts the aging process for each clinical sign, considering endogenous and exogenous factors. It simulates aging curves according to lifestyle. It can be used as a preventive tool and could be coupled with a generative AI algorithm to visualize aging and, potentially, other skin conditions, using appropriate images.

Skin Protection by Carotenoid Pigments

Sunlight, despite its benefits, can pose a threat to the skin, which is a natural protective barrier. Phototoxicity caused by overexposure, especially to ultraviolet radiation (UVR), results in burns, accelerates photoaging, and causes skin cancer formation. Natural substances of plant origin, i.e., polyphenols, flavonoids, and photosynthetic pigments, can protect the skin against the effects of radiation, acting not only as photoprotectors like natural filters but as antioxidant and anti-inflammatory remedies, alleviating the effects of photodamage to the skin. Plant-based formulations are gaining popularity as an attractive alternative to synthetic filters. Over the past 20 years, a large number of studies have been published to assess the photoprotective effects of natural plant products, primarily through their antioxidant, antimutagenic, and anti-immunosuppressive activities. This review selects the most important data on skin photodamage and photoprotective efficacy of selected plant carotenoid representatives from in vivo studies on animal models and humans, as well as in vitro experiments performed on fibroblast and keratinocyte cell lines. Recent research on carotenoids associated with lipid nanoparticles, nanoemulsions, liposomes, and micelles is reviewed. The focus was on collecting those nanomaterials that serve to improve the bioavailability and stability of carotenoids as natural antioxidants with photoprotective activity.

Thermodynamic and Vibrational Aspects of Peptide Bond Hydrolysis and Their Potential Relationship to the Harmfulness of Infrared Radiation

The primary physicochemical effect upon exposure to infrared radiation (IR) is the temperature increase of cells. The degradation of proteins via the hydrolysis of peptide bonds is related to cell malfunction. In this work, the degradation of proteins/peptides under the influence of IR radiation is theoretically studied. It is shown that the low value of enthalpy of peptide bond hydrolysis has two consequences: (a) the enthalpy of hydrolysis is sensitive to small variations in the bond strength, and the hydrolysis of weak peptide bonds is exothermic, while the hydrolysis of stronger bonds is endothermic; (b) the increase in temperature (e.g., due to IR exposure) changes the enthalpy of the reaction of some weak peptide bonds from exothermic to endothermic (that is, their hydrolysis will be favored upon further increase in temperature). Simple calculations reveal that the amount of absorbed energy during the overtone and hot band transitions of the H-O-H and C-N stretching vibrations is comparable to the activation energy of the (uncatalyzed) hydrolysis. A critical discussion is provided regarding the influence of different IR wavelengths on peptide bond hydrolysis.

Factors associated with older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice on skin cancer prevention

OBJECTIVES

to identify factors associated with older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice regarding skin cancer prevention.

METHODS

this is a cross-sectional study, carried out with 120 older adults from a Basic Health Unit in Quixadá, Ceará, from September to November 2018.

RESULTS

individuals aged 60 to 69 years and working were statistically associated with adequate knowledge (p=0.038). Having light skin, eyes and hair was associated with adequate attitude (p=0.030). Having skin problems, such as bleeding wounds, was associated with adequate practice (p=0.016). With regard to inappropriate behavior for skin cancer prevention, there was a statistically significant association between working or having worked under direct exposure to the sun, inadequate knowledge (p=0.036), inadequate attitude (p=0.010) and having incomplete primary education and inadequate practice (p<0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

sociodemographic and clinical factors influence older adults' knowledge, attitude and practice regarding skin cancer prevention.

[Skin aging exposome]

The skin is a barrier organ and thus exposed to environmental factors from birth, which essentially determine skin aging. In order to describe and understand this complex process exactly, we applied the concept of the "exposome" to the environmentally induced skin aging process. In this review, we summarize current knowledge on the skin aging exposome. In this context, we characterize the most important exposomal factors, address their relative importance for skin aging and also the relevance of their mutual interactions. Finally, we discuss the clinical consequences resulting from this concept for an effective prevention of skin aging.

Photoaging: Reversal of the Oxidative Stress Through Dietary Changes and Plant-Based Products

Redox flagging represents all life processes, and maintaining a physiological level of antioxidants is essential for the legitimate working of the cell. Genetics and environmental triggers are two major culminating factors for skin aging, both chronological and photoaging. The latter, however, relies principally upon the level of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and the skin phototype. Apart from causing DNA damage, UVR also stimulates the receptors present in keratinocytes as well as fibroblasts. This in turn leads to the breakdown of collagen and a breach in the generation of new collagen. It is speculated that the breakdown of collagen in the dermis is ensured by the defective restoration that ultimately hampers the structural integrity of skin, leading to wrinkled and atrophic skin. The skin has an admixture of various endogenous antioxidants that work synergistically with vitamins and minerals to maintain cellular equilibrium. Although, their role in safeguarding the cells against the detrimental effects induced by UVR is still questionable and requires further research. However, the advancement in the biology of skin has led to the development of strategies that aim at skin rejuvenation and retarding the progression of photoaging and its visible signs. Photoaging in this article is reviewed in light of current concepts in pathogenesis and its prevention. In addition, the article focuses on both prevailing and forthcoming treatment strategies primarily through plant-based products that will help slow down the process of photoaging.

Cotton Woven Fabrics as Protective Polymer Materials against Solar Radiation in the Range of 210-1200 nm

The proposed paper describes the influence of woven fabric constructional parameters (type of weave, relative fabric density) and colouration (obtained by eco-friendly dyeing) on the solar transmittance of cotton woven fabrics in the range of 210-1200 nm. The cotton woven fabrics in their raw state were prepared according to Kienbaum's setting theory, at three levels of relative fabric density and three levels of the weave factor, and then exposed to the dyeing process with natural dyestuffs (beetroot, walnut leaves). After ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV/VIS/IRA) solar transmittance and reflection in the range of 210-1200 nm were recorded, the influence of the fabric construction and colouration were analysed. The guidelines for fabric constructor were proposed. The results show that the walnut-coloured satin samples at the third level of relative fabric density provide the best solar protection in the whole solar spectrum. All the tested eco-friendly dyed fabrics offer good solar protection, while only raw satin fabric at the third level of relative fabric density can be classified as solar protective material with even better protection in IRA region than some coloured samples.

The neuroprotective and antidiabetic effects of trigonelline: A review of signaling pathways and molecular mechanisms

The global epidemic of diabetes has brought heavy pressure on public health. New effective anti-diabetes strategies are urgently needed. Trigonelline is the main component of fenugreek, which has been proved to have a good therapeutic effect on diabetes and diabetic complications. Trigonelline achieves amelioration of diabetes, the mechanisms of which include the modulation of insulin secretion, a reduction in oxidative stress, and the improvement of glucose tolerance and insulin resistance. Besides, trigonelline has been reported to be a neuroprotective agent against many neurologic diseases including Alzheimer's disease, Parkinson's disease, stroke, and depression. Concerning the potential therapeutic effects of trigonelline, comprehensive clinical trials are warranted to evaluate this valuable molecule.

Skin Aging Exposome in Skin of Color Populations: Review of the Literature

BACKGROUND

As life expectancy increases, the comorbidities related to aging require greater attention. Skin aging exposomes were only recently defined and need additional delineation, particularly in Skin of Color (SOC) populations.

OBJECTIVE

The primary objective is to shed the light and summarize the existing literature on skin aging exposome in SOC populations.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We performed an extensive search in the PubMed and Google Scholar databases. We included peer-reviewed studies in SOC populations around the world regarding one or more of the skin aging exposome factors, and we grouped and organized the studies under each factor of the skin aging exposome.

RESULTS

Some environmental exposome factors are preventable or modifiable, for example, by applying broad-spectrum sunscreens with visible light protection, improving nutrition, and smoking cessation. Other factors such as air pollution will require more complex solutions. Our search revealed a paucity of references on skin aging exposome factors in SOC populations.

CONCLUSION

We identified the need for more dedicated studies in SOC populations to advance knowledge on skin aging exposome factors. This knowledge will provide a better understanding of approaches to minimize extrinsic skin aging in these populations.

Handelin Reduces Ultraviolet A-Induced Photoaging by Inhibiting Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Enhancing Autophagy

Photoaging is mainly caused by the exposure of the skin to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Among them, damage to human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells caused by ultraviolet A (UVA) is the main cause of skin aging. Researchers have dedicated to identifying natural compounds from plants to fight against UV radiation-induced photoaging. We previously found that extracts from wild chrysanthemum could prevent acute damage and photoaging induced by UV irradiation. As one of the most abundant ingredients in wild chrysanthemum extract, handelin was hypothesized to have the potential to prevent UVA-induced photoaging of skin fibroblast. In the present study, we report the great potential of handelin in combating UVA-induced photoaging of fibroblasts. We firstly demonstrated that handelin was safe for skin fibroblast as high as a concentration of 0.0125 μM, showing no toxicity on the cells and improved cell viability. Furthermore, handelin can reduce UVA-induced cellular senescence, indicated by a reduced proportion of senescence-associated beta-galactose positive cells and the expression of P21. We then verified that handelin pretreatment markedly attenuated the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation after UVA irradiation. Meanwhile, we found that handelin enhances autophagy after UVA irradiation, and autophagy is involved in the quality control of intracellular proteins after UV-induced damage (partially indirectly via ROS). Therefore, these results suggest that handelin has a very high potential as an effective ingredient against UVA-induced skin aging. Moreover, this provides an important basis for further research on the photoprotective mechanism of handelin.

Rosmarinus officinalis extract-loaded emulgel prevents UVB irradiation damage to the skin

UVB-irradiation increases the risk of various skin disorders, therefore leading to inflammation and oxidative stress. In this sense, antioxidant-rich herbs such as Rosmarinus officinalis may be useful in minimizing the damage promoted by reactive oxygen species. In this work, we report the efficacy of a R. officinalis hydroethanolic extract (ROe)-loaded emulgel in preventing UVB-related skin damage. Total phenols were determined using Folin-Ciocalteu assay, and the main phytocomponents in the extract were identified by UHPLC-HRMS. Moreover, in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) value of ROe was also assessed, and we investigated the in vivo protective effect of an emulgel containing ROe against UVB-induced damage in an animal model. The ROe exhibited commercially viable SPF activity (7.56 ± 0.16) and remarkable polyphenolic content (24.15 ± 0.11 mg (Eq.GA)/g). HPLC-MS and UHPLC-HRMS results showcased that the main compounds in ROe were: rosmarinic acid, carnosic acid and carnosol. The evaluation of the in vitro antioxidant activity demonstrated a dose-dependent effect of ROe against several radicals and the capacity to reduce iron. Therefore, we demonstrated that topical application of the formulation containing ROe inhibited edema formation, myeloperoxidase activity, GSH depletion and maintained ferric reducing (FRAP) and ABTS scavenging abilities of the skin after UVB exposure.

The Mangosteen Peel Ethyl Acetate Extract-based Cream Inhibits Ultraviolet-B Radiation-induced Hyperpigmentation in Guinea Pig Skin

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is the main factor causing the aberrant melanin pigments leading to skin hyperpigmentation. Retinoic acid and hydroquinone are the primary preference for the skin whitening agents in preventing hyperpigmentation. However, these treatments could induce slight-to-severe irritation leading to skin cancer. Mangosteen peel possesses α-mangostin, the primary constituent of xanthones in mangosteen peel that has potency as an anti-tyrosinase for treating issues of skin hyperpigmentation. AIM: This study aims to demonstrate the capacity of mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract-based cream in inhibiting the UVB radiation-induced skin hyperpigmentation in guinea pig. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 25 female guinea pigs were used to produce UVB-irradiated skin hyperpigmentation model. Guinea pig skins were treated with 12% mangosteen ethyl acetate extract-based cream. Mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor activity was used to evaluate the capacity of mangosteen extract in inhibiting tyrosinase activity in vitro. The melanin index in guinea pig skin after treatments was analyzed using a mexameter. The percentage of epidermal melanin-contained keratinocytes of skin tissues were analyzed using masson fontana. Pmel17 expression in cell surface was determined using immunohistochemistry. The level of tyrosinase in tissue homogenates was analyzed using Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. RESULTS: Mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract showed potent inhibitory activity against the mushroom tyrosinase. Its-based cream decreased melanin index, epidermal melanin, Pmel17 expression, and tyrosinase level in hyperpigmentation skin tissues. CONCLUSION: Overall, our study demonstrates the capacity of mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract-based cream in inhibiting the UVB radiation-induced skin hyperpigmentation in guinea pig.

Smart biomaterials and their potential applications in tissue engineering

Smart biomaterials have been rapidly advancing ever since the concept of tissue engineering was proposed. Interacting with human cells, smart biomaterials can play a key role in novel tissue morphogenesis. Various aspects of biomaterials utilized in or being sought for the goal of encouraging bone regeneration, skin graft engineering, and nerve conduits are discussed in this review. Beginning with bone, this study summarizes all the available bioceramics and materials along with their properties used singly or in conjunction with each other to create scaffolds for bone tissue engineering. A quick overview of the skin-based nanocomposite biomaterials possessing antibacterial properties for wound healing is outlined along with skin regeneration therapies using infrared radiation, electrospinning, and piezoelectricity, which aid in wound healing. Furthermore, a brief overview of bioengineered artificial skin grafts made of various natural and synthetic polymers has been presented. Finally, by examining the interactions between natural and synthetic-based biomaterials and the biological environment, their strengths and drawbacks for constructing peripheral nerve conduits are highlighted. The description of the preclinical outcome of nerve regeneration in injury healed with various natural-based conduits receives special attention. The organic and synthetic worlds collide at the interface of nanomaterials and biological systems, producing a new scientific field including nanomaterial design for tissue engineering.

Ultraviolet Light Protection: Is It Really Enough?

Our current understanding of the pathogenesis of skin aging includes the role of ultraviolet light, visible light, infrared, pollution, cigarette smoke and other environmental exposures. The mechanism of action common to these exposures is the disruption of the cellular redox balance by the directly or indirectly increased formation of reactive oxygen species that overwhelm the intrinsic antioxidant defense system, resulting in an oxidative stress condition. Altered redox homeostasis triggers downstream pathways that contribute to tissue oxinflammation (cross-talk between inflammation and altered redox status) and accelerate skin aging. In addition, both ultraviolet light and pollution increase intracellular free iron that catalyzes reactive oxygen species generation via the Fenton reaction. This disruption of iron homeostasis within the cell further promotes oxidative stress and contributes to extrinsic skin aging. More recent studies have demonstrated that iron chelators can be used topically and can enhance the benefits of topically applied antioxidants. Thus, an updated, more comprehensive approach to environmental or atmospheric aging protection should include sun protective measures, broad spectrum sunscreens, antioxidants, chelating agents, and DNA repair enzymes.

Effects of Collagen Hydrolysate From Large Hybrid Sturgeon on Mitigating Ultraviolet B-Induced Photodamage

Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation leads to the excessive accumulation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which subsequently promote inflammation, degradation of the extracellular matrix, and photoaging in skin. Thus antioxidant activity is particularly important when screening for active substances to prevent or repair photodamage. Marine fish-derived bioactive peptides have become a trend in cosmetics and functional food industries owing to their potential dermatological benefits. In this study, 1-diphenyl- 2-pycryl-hydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging activity was selected to optimize the hydrolysis conditions of sturgeon skin collagen peptides with antioxidant activity. The optimal hydrolysis conditions for sturgeon skin collagen hydrolysate (SSCH) were determined by response surface methodology, which comprised an enzyme dosage of flavorzyme at 6,068.4 U/g, temperature of 35.5°C, pH of 7, and hydrolysis time of 6 h. SSCH showed good radical-scavenging capacities with a DPPH scavenging efficiency of 95%. Then, the effect of low-molecular-weight SSCH fraction (SSCH-L) on UVB irradiation-induced photodamage was evaluated in mouse fibroblast L929 cells and zebrafish. SSCH-L reduced intracellular ROS levels and the malondialdehyde content, thereby alleviating the oxidative damage caused by UVB radiation. Moreover SSCH-L inhibited the mRNA expression of genes encoding the pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-1β, IL-6, TNF-α, and Cox-2. SSCH-L treatment further increased the collagen Ⅰα1 content and had a significant inhibitory effect on matrix metalloproteinase expression. The phosphorylation level of JNK and the expression of c-Jun protein were significantly reduced by SSCH-L. Additionally, SSCH-L increased the tail fin area at 0.125 and 0.25 mg/ml in a zebrafish UVB radiation model, which highlighted the potential of SSCH-L to repair UVB-irradiated zebrafish skin damage. Peptide sequences of SSCH-L were identified by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry. Based on the 3D-QSAR modeling prediction, six total peptides were selected to test the UVB-protective activity. Among these peptides, DPFRHY showed good UVB-repair activity, ROS-scavenging activity, DNA damage-protective activity and apoptosis inhibition activity. These results suggested that DPFRHY has potential applications as a natural anti-photodamage material in cosmetic and functional food industries.

Incobotulinum Toxin Type A for Treatment of Ultraviolet-B-Induced Hyperpigmentation: A Prospective, Randomized, Controlled Trial

Incobotulinum toxin A (IncoBoNT-A) is effective in preventing ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced hyperpigmentation. This prospective, randomized, controlled study aimed to evaluate the effect of IncoBoNT-A on the treatment of UVB-induced hyperpigmentation in 15 volunteers. Five hyperpigmentation squares (2 × 2 cm) were induced by local UVB on the abdomen at baseline. At Day 7, each site was randomized to receive no treatment (control), normal saline, or intradermal IncoBoNT-A injection with 1:2.5, 1:5, and 1:7.5 dilutions (12, 6, and 4 units, respectively). The mean lightness index (L*), hyperpigmentation improvement score evaluated by blinded dermatologists, and participant satisfaction scores were obtained at Days 21, 28, and 35. At Day 21, improvements in mean L* of 1:2.5, 1:5, and 1:7.5 IncoBoNT-A-treated, saline-treated, and control sites were 14.30%, 12.28%, 6.62%, 0.32%, and 4.98%, respectively (p = 0.86). At Day 28, the improvement in mean L* in IncoBoNT-A-treated groups was superior to that in the other groups. In terms of the hyperpigmentation improvement score, 12 participants (80%) experienced better outcomes with the IncoBoNT-A-injected site compared with the other sites. IncoBoNT-A, especially at higher concentrations, showed some positive effects on the treatment of UVB-induced hyperpigmentation. This may serve as an adjuvant treatment for hyperpigmentary conditions that are aggravated by UVB.

Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine (TriAsorB), a new sunfilter protecting the skin against both UVB + UVA and blue light radiations

Sunlight induces actinic keratosis, skin cancers and photoaging. Photoprotection is thus a major issue in public health to prevent the harmful effects of solar ultraviolet (UV) radiations. Recent data have shown that the visible (VIS) and infrared (IR) radiations can lead to skin damage by oxidative stress, suggesting that a balanced protection across the entire spectrum of sunlight is necessary to prevent cutaneous alterations. In this context, we developed a new generation of sunfilter called Phenylene Bis-Diphenyltriazine or TriAsorB (CAS N°55514-22-2). The aim of the present study was to assess the photoprotective efficacy of TriAsorB from UV to IR light. Spectrophotometric assays were performed to measure absorption and reflectance of TriAsorB in the different spectral ranges of sunlight: UV, VIS including blue light or high energy visible (HEV) and IR. DNA damage was evaluated using reconstructed human epidermis (RHE): 8-hydroxy-2'-deoxyguanosine (8OHdG) in response to HEV exposure, pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and (6-4) photoproducts following solar-simulated radiation (SSR). TriAsorB is a broad spectrum UVB + UVA filter including long UVA. Interestingly, it also absorbs VIS radiations, especially in the HEV region. These radiations are also reflected. Protection in the IR spectral range is weak. Furthermore, the sunfilter specifically protects the skin against the oxidative lesions 8OHdG induced by HEV and prevents SSR-induced DNA damage. Thus, TriAsorB is an innovative sunfilter that might be used in sun care products for skin photoprotection from UV to VIS radiations. Finally, it prevents sunlight genotoxicity and protected the skin against solar radiations, especially blue light.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

A comprehensive topical antioxidant inhibits oxidative stress induced by blue light exposure and cigarette smoke in human skin tissue

OBJECTIVE

Skin damage from visible light predominantly results from exposure to the blue light spectrum (400-500 nm) which generates Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) causing a cascade of harmful effects to skin. Topical antioxidants reduce the effects of free radical damage caused by environmental exposures. This study evaluated a comprehensive topical antioxidant's ability to inhibit ROS production induced by blue light and cigarette smoke (CS) in human skin.

METHODS

Two experiments were conducted utilizing human skin (Fitzpatrick Skin Types III and V; N = 3, each). After confirmed reactivity of untreated tissues at 412 nm, 20J/cm2 , untreated and pretreated (WEL-DS, 2 mg/cm2 ) skin tissue was exposed to blue light and blue light plus CS and left overnight. A nonfluorescent probe (DCFH-DA) was added to skin and exposed to blue light (412 nm, 20J/cm2 ) and blue light plus CS. Fluorescent 2',7'-DCF was generated upon enzymatic reduction and subsequent oxidation by ROS.

RESULTS

ROS increased at least tenfold following initial exposure to blue light and blue light plus CS in untreated skin. Pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS in FST III exposed to blue light by 51% and 46% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (both, P < .001). In FST V, pretreatment with WEL-DS decreased ROS exposed to blue light by 54% (P < .001) and 50% in skin exposed to blue light plus CS vs. untreated skin (P < .0001).

CONCLUSION

WEL-DS demonstrated significant reduction in ROS induced by blue light and blue light in combination with CS compared with untreated, exposed skin.

Seven traditional Chinese herbal extracts fermented by Lactobacillus rhamnosus provide anti-pigmentation effects by regulating the CREB/MITF/tyrosinase pathway

Skin pigmentation is resulted from several processes, such as melanin synthesis transportation and abnormal melanin accumulation in keratinocytes. Various studies have suggested that seven traditional Chinese herbal extracts from Atractylodes macrocephala, Paeonia lactiflora, Bletilla striata, Poria cocos, Dictamnus dasycarpus, Ampelopsis japonica and Tribulus terrestris (which we collectively named ChiBai), show several protective effects toward skin-related diseases. Lactobacillus rhamnosus, a lactic acid bacterium, has been reported to treat skin inflammation and atopic dermatitis. In this study, the broth produced by the cofermentation of ChiBai with Lactobacillus rhamnosus was studied for its effects on skin pigmentation through in vitro and in vitro experiments. In the in vitro experiments, we found that the fermented broth of ChiBai (FB-ChiBai) suppressed alpha-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F0 murine melanoma cells without any cytotoxicity at a concentration of 0.5%. FB-ChiBai significantly attenuated melanin production, tyrosinase activities and melanogenesis-related signaling pathways. Treatment with FB-ChiBai also reduced the nuclear translocation and promoter binding activities of MITF. In the in vivo experiments, FB-ChiBai was topically applied to the dorsal skin of C57BL/6J nude mice and concurrently irradiated with UVB, three times a week for 8 weeks. The results indicated that FB-ChiBai alleviated UVB-induced hyperpigmentation by reducing epidermal hyperplasia and inhibiting the CREB/MITF/tyrosinase pathway. In conclusion, our data indicated that the anti-melanogenic effects of FB-ChiBai are mediated by the inhibition of CREB/MITF/tyrosinase signaling pathway. The findings suggest that FB-ChiBai can protect against UV-B irradiation and that it might be used as an agent in cosmetic products to protect against UVB-induced hyperpigmentation.

Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light

Cutaneous photobiology studies have focused primarily on the ultraviolet portion of the solar spectrum. Visible light (VL), which comprises 50% of the electromagnetic radiation that reaches the Earth's surface and, as discussed in Part I of this CME, has cutaneous biologic effects, such as pigment darkening and erythema. Photoprotection against VL includes avoiding the sun, seeking shade, and using photoprotective clothing. The organic and inorganic ultraviolet filters used in sunscreens do not protect against VL, only tinted sunscreens do. In the United States, these filters are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration as an over-the-counter drug and are subject to more stringent regulations than in Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are no established guidelines regarding VL photoprotection. Alternative measures to confer VL photoprotection are being explored. These novel methods include topical, oral, and subcutaneous agents. Further development should focus on better protection in the ultraviolet A1 (340-400 nm) and VL ranges while enhancing the cosmesis of the final products.

Environmentally-Induced (Extrinsic) Skin Aging: Exposomal Factors and Underlying Mechanisms

As a barrier organ, the skin is an ideal model to study environmentally-induced (extrinsic) aging. In this review, we explain the development of extrinsic skin aging as a consequence of skin exposure to specific exposomal factors, their interaction with each other, and the modification of their effects on the skin by genetic factors. We also review the evidence that exposure to these exposomal factors causes extrinsic skin aging by mechanisms that critically involve the accumulation of macromolecular damage and the subsequent development of functionally altered and/or senescent fibroblasts in the dermal compartment of the skin.

Cyanobacteria and Red Macroalgae as Potential Sources of Antioxidants and UV Radiation-Absorbing Compounds for Cosmeceutical Applications

In recent years, research on natural products has gained considerable attention, particularly in the cosmetic industry, which is looking for new bio-active and biodegradable molecules. In this study, cosmetic properties of cyanobacteria and red macroalgae were analyzed. The extractions were conducted in different solvents (water, ethanol and two combinations of water:ethanol). The main molecules with antioxidant and photoprotective capacity were mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin and phenolic compounds. The highest contents of scytonemin (only present in cyanobacteria) were observed in Scytonema sp. (BEA 1603B) and Lyngbya sp. (BEA 1328B). The highest concentrations of MAAs were found in the red macroalgae Porphyra umbilicalis, Gelidium corneum and Osmundea pinnatifida and in the cyanobacterium Lyngbya sp. Scytonema sp. was the unique species that presented an MAA with maximum absorption in the UV-B band, being identified as mycosporine-glutaminol for the first time in this species. The highest content of polyphenols was observed in Scytonema sp. and P. umbilicalis. Water was the best extraction solvent for MAAs and phenols, whereas scytonemin was better extracted in a less polar solvent such as ethanol:_dH₂O (4:1). Cyanobacterium extracts presented higher antioxidant activity than those of red macroalgae. Positive correlations of antioxidant activity with different molecules, especially polyphenols, biliproteins and MAAs, were observed. Hydroethanolic extracts of some species incorporated in creams showed an increase in the photoprotection capacity in comparison with the base cream. Extracts of these organisms could be used as natural photoprotectors improving the diversity of sunscreens. The combination of different extracts enriched in scytonemin and MAAs could be useful to design broad-band natural UV-screen cosmeceutical products.

[Sun-damaged skin (photoaging): what is new?]

Skin aging results from the interaction of genetic and nongenetic so-called exposomal, factors. Among the exposomal factors, chronic, life-long exposure to sunlight is of eminent importance for the development of skin aging characteristics. Importantly, photoaging of human skin is not only caused by ultraviolet (UV) B and A radiation, but is also the consequence of exposure to wavelengths beyond the UV spectrum. These include visible, i.e. blue light (400-440 nm) as well as the short part of infrared radiation, i.e. IRA (760-1200 nm). Here we summarize the scientific evidence supporting these conclusions and emphasize the resulting consequences for daily photoprotection of human skin. We also explain the clinical significance of the concept that is offered by the skin aging exposome, which e.g. takes into account the fact that sunlight interacts with other exposomal factors and that this interaction is important for photoaging of the skin.

Lycopene and Melatonin: Antioxidant Compounds in Cosmetic Formulations

BACKGROUND

The use of antioxidants has become a common practice in the development of antiaging cosmetics.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study was to evaluate the clinical efficacy of cosmetic formulations containing lycopene and melatonin antioxidants.

METHOD

Thirty-six healthy women from 32 to 65 years were enrolled in this study. The study was carried out for 10 weeks, 2 preconditioning weeks with a control cream without antioxidants, and 8-week test with creams containing antioxidants in study. A multifunctional skin physiology monitor (Courage &amp; Khazaka electronic GmbH®, Germany) was used to measure skin sebum content, hydration, elasticity, erythema index, and melanin index in 4 different regions of the face.

RESULTS

There were significant differences between them.

Autophagy: Multiple Mechanisms to Protect Skin from Ultraviolet Radiation-Driven Photoaging

Autophagy is an essential cellular process that maintains balanced cell life. Restriction in autophagy may induce degenerative changes in humans. Natural or pathological aging of susceptible tissues has been linked with reduced autophagic activity. Skin photoaging is an example of such pathological condition caused by ambient solar UV radiation exposure. The UV-induced production of reaction oxygen species (ROS) has been linked to the promotion and progression of the photoaging process in exposed tissues. Accordingly, it has been suggested that autophagy is capable of delaying the skin photoaging process caused by solar ultraviolet (UV), although the underlying mechanism is still under debate. This review highlights several plausible mechanisms by which UV-induced ROS activates the cellular signaling pathways and modulates the autophagy. More specifically, the UV-mediated regulation of autophagy and age-related transcription factors is discussed to pinpoint the contribution of autophagy to antiphotoaging effects in the skin. The outcome of this review will provide insights into design intervention strategies for delaying the phenomenon of sunlight-induced photodamage, photoaging, and other aging-related chronic diseases based on factors that activate the autophagy process in the skin.

Xanthophyll: Health benefits and therapeutic insights

Xanthophylls constitute a major part of carotenoids in nature. They are an oxidized version of carotenoid. Xanthophyll has widely drawn scientists' attentions in terms of its functionality, bioavailability and diversity. An assortment of xanthophyll varieties includes lutein, zeaxanthin, β-cryptoxanthin, capsanthin, astaxanthin, and fucoxanthin. Chemically, lutein and zeaxanthin are dipolar carotenoids with hydroxyl groups at both ends of their molecules that bestow hydrophilic properties to them. Hydrophilic affinity in lutein and zeaxanthin makes better bioavailability in reaction with singlet oxygen in water phase, whereas non-polar carotenoids have shown to have less efficiency in scavenging free radicals. Xanthophylls have been studied for their effects in a wide variety of diseases including neurologic, ophthalmologic, oral, allergic and immune diseases. This review highlights pharmaco-pharmaceutical applications of xanthophylls as well asits drug interactions with beta-carotene. Different types of xanthophylls have been shown to have neuroprotective effects. Fucoxanthin demonstrated potent antiplasmodial activity. Lutein and zeaxanthin prevent the progression of age related macular degeneration. They have also demonstrated promising effects on uveitis, retinitis pigmentosa, scleritis, cataracts, glaucoma, retinal ischemia and choroideremia. Astaxanthin showed to have skin protecting effects against ultraviolet light injury. Astaxanthin have anti-allergic activity against the contact dermatitis especially to treat the patients having adverse reactions induced by steroids. Astaxanthin has been reported to exert beneficial effects in preventing oral lichen planus and early stage cancers. β-cryptoxanthin has been considered a good candidate for prevention of bone loss via osteoblastic bone formation and inhibiting osteoclastic bone resorption. There is also some concern that higher dose of xanthophylls may be linked to increased risk of skin cancer and gastric adenocarcinoma. However this increased risk was not statistically significant when adjusted for confounding factors. Further researches including clinical studies are needed to better evaluate the efficacy and safety of xanthophylls in prevention and treatment of different diseases.

High-energy visible light at ambient doses and intensities induces oxidative stress of skin-Protective effects of the antioxidant and Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A in vitro and in vivo

BACKGROUND

Solar radiation causes skin damage through the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS). While UV filters effectively reduce UV-induced ROS, they cannot prevent VIS-induced (400-760 nm) oxidative stress. Therefore, potent antioxidants are needed as additives to sunscreen products.

METHODS

We investigated VIS-induced ROS formation and the photoprotective effects of the Nrf2 inducer Licochalcone A (LicA).

RESULTS

Visible spectrum of 400-500 nm dose-dependently induced ROS in cultured human fibroblasts at doses equivalent to 1 hour of sunshine on a sunny summer day (150 J/cm² ). A pretreatment for 24 hours with 1 µmol/L LicA reduced ROS formation to the level of unirradiated cells while UV filters alone were ineffective, even at SPF50+. In vivo, topical treatment with a LicA-containing SPF50 + formulation significantly prevented the depletion of intradermal carotenoids by VIS irradiation while SPF50 + control did not protect.

CONCLUSION

LicA may be a useful additive antioxidant for sunscreens.

The Protective Effect of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids (MAAs) from Porphyra yezoensis in a Mouse Model of UV Irradiation-Induced Photoaging

The objective of this research was to extract and prepare mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) and investigate the mechanism by which they act against UV-induced skin photoaging in Institute of Cancer Research (ICR ) mice. MAAs such as porphyra-334 and shinorine were extracted from Porphyra yezoensis, separated, and purified using column chromatography with SA-2 cation exchange resin. The effects of MAAs on the activity of endogenous antioxidant enzymes, namely total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD), glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), catalase (CAT), and malondialdehyde (MDA) were analyzed in mouse skin tissue. Pathological changes of skin tissue caused by ultraviolet radiation and the arrangement of collagen were observed by Hematoxylin-Eosin (HE) staining and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). Interleukin 1β (IL-1β), IL-6, and IL-10 were detected using the quantitative real-time reverse transcription-polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and Enzyme Linked Immunosorbent Assay (ELISA). The concentration and expression of these proinflammatory cytokines was associated with the presence of nuclear factor (NF)-κB. The results show that MAA compounds from Porphyra yezoensis could suppress UV-induced photoaging of skin by inhibiting the reduction of endogenous antioxidant enzymes. Compared to the control group, the concentrations of SOD, GSH-Px, and CAT increased significantly in skin tissue homogenate following the external administration of MAAs (p < 0.05, p < 0.01), while the content of MDA decreased significantly (p < 0.05). Meanwhile, the administration of MAAs was associated with down-regulations in the concentration and mRNA expression of NF-κB, IL-1β, IL-6, and IL-10. The results suggest that MAAs could protect skin from photodamage by increasing antioxidant enzyme activities and inhibiting inflammation.

Sesamol Inhibited Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Hyperpigmentation and Damage in C57BL/6 Mouse Skin

Melanin is synthesized through a series of oxidative reactions initiated with tyrosine and catalyzed by melanogenesis-related proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), dopachrome tautomerase (TRP-2), and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). Our previous study demonstrated that sesamol inhibited melanin synthesis through the inhibition of the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R)/MITF/tyrosinase pathway in B16F10 cells. In this study, sesamol was applied to C57BL/6 mouse skin to understand its activity with respect to skin pigmentation. The results indicated that ultraviolet (UV) B-induced hyperpigmentation in the C57BL/6 mouse skin was significantly reduced by topical application of sesamol for 4 weeks. Sesamol reduced the melanin index and melanin content of the skin. In addition, sesamol elevated the brightness (L* value) of the skin. Sesamol also reduced UVB-induced hyperplasia of epidermis and collagen degradation in dermis. In immunohistochemical staining, topical application of sesamol reduced UVB-induced tyrosinase, TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF expression in the epidermis of the skin. These results demonstrated that sesamol is a potent depigmenting agent in the animal model.

Isoorientin alleviates UVB-induced skin injury by regulating mitochondrial ROS and cellular autophagy

Ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation increases the risk of various skin disorders, resulting in apoptosis, autophagy and oxidative stress and thereby promoting the risk of skin photoaging and carcinogenesis. The use of photochemoprotectors including natural products with antioxidant properties represents an effective strategy for preventing UVB-induced skin injury. Isoorientin (Iso), as a flavonoid compound, could be extracted from several plant species and possesses multiple biological activities. However, its role in regulating UVB-induced skin damage is little to be reported. In the study, we found that Iso treatment could protect human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) against the effects of UVB irradiation by improving cell viability, suppressing MMP1 and MMP3 expression, inhibiting oxidative stress and inducing autophagy. In addition, Iso reduced UVB-triggered apoptosis, as evidenced by the decreased Caspase-3 activity in vitro. Furthermore, Iso was functioned as reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenger that markedly hindered c-Jun N-terminal kinases (JNK) signaling activation in UVB-treated HFDs. Importantly, promoting JNK activity restored matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1/3 expression in Iso-incubated cells with UVB stimulation. Meanwhile, UVB exposure to the skin of mice and subsequent topical application of Iso delayed the progression of skin damage, resulting in autophagy and blocking the JNK activation and ROS production. In conclusion, these results indicated the photoprotective role of Iso and demonstrated that Iso could also be potentially used as an agent against UVB-stimulated skin damage.

Antioxidant role on the protection of melanocytes against visible light-induced photodamage

Visible light can induce the generation of singlet oxygen and can cause oxidative stress, especially in melanocytes due to melanin photosensitization. Currently, there is no organic UV-filter that provide visible light protection. Previous studies showed that some antioxidants, such as apigenin (API), chrysin (CRI) and beta-carotene (BTC) besides neutralizing radical chain reactions can also quench singlet oxygen via physical or chemical quenching and exhibit potential for use in photoprotection. Therefore, the aim of this study is to evaluate the efficacy of API, CRI and BTC on the protection against cell death induced by melanin photosensitization and understand the underlying mechanisms that are involved in the protection. Precise protocols of melanogenesis and quantification of singlet oxygen generation were developed. Viability of B16-F10 cells with melanin basal levels and after melanogenesis induction was evaluated after visible light exposure in the presence and absence of API, CRI and BTC. Results showed that API and BTC protected cells from photoinduced cell death API exhibiting superior photoprotective effect. We noticed that the efficiency of cell protection and the rate of singlet oxygen suppression are not well correlated, at least for the studied series of antioxidants, indicating that the anti-radical capacity should be playing a major role in protecting cells against the damage induced by melanin photosensitization. In terms of sun care strategies, both API and BTC offer protection against visible light-induced damages and may be effective topical antioxidants to be added to sunscreens.

Water-Filtered Infrared Radiation Decreases the Generation of Photodermatoses Dependent on Ultraviolet and Visible Radiation

The potential role of infrared radiation in photodermatoses has received very little attention, even though the main sources of radiation used for photobiological studies (UVA, UVB and visible light) include infrared radiation. The objective of the work was to assess whether infrared radiation is involved in the development of skin lesions in patients with different types of photodermatoses. Twenty patients with different photodermatoses were exposed to UVA, UVB and visible radiation using a high-pressure mercury UVA lamp, a fluorescent broadband UVB lamp, a tungsten bulb and a slide projector for visible radiation. Part of the radiation emitted by these lamps was water-filtered to block infrared radiation above 1300 nm. All 20 patients developed lesions when exposed to different light sources used for phototest. When exposed to same sources without infrared radiation, 17 patients (85%) did not develop any lesions and the other three (15%) developed less severe lesions than in the area exposed to unfiltered light. Our results show that infrared radiation was necessary for the development of skin lesions in 85% of the patients with photodermatoses in our study. We believe that infrared radiation studies should be included in standard photobiology protocols.

Oral Photoprotection: Effective Agents and Potential Candidates

Electromagnetic radiation in the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared ranges produces biologic effects in humans. Where some of these effects are beneficial, others are harmful to the skin, particularly those stemming from ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Pharmacological photoprotection can be topical or systemic. Systemic photoprotection is often administered orally, complementing topical protection. New and classic oral agents (e.g., essential micronutrients as vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, carotenoids) are endowed with photoprotective and anti-photocarcinogenic properties. These substances bear the potential to increase systemic protection against the effects of electromagnetic radiation in the UV, visible, and infrared ranges. Protective mechanisms vary and include anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory effects. As such, they provide protection against UVR and prevent photo-induced carcinogenesis and aging. In this review, we present state of the art approaches regarding the photoprotective effects of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, dietary botanical, and non-botanical agents. A growing body of data supports the beneficial effects of oral photoprotection on the health of the skin. More studies will likely confirm and expand the positive impact of oral dietary botanicals as complementary measures for photoprotection.

Novel Means for Photoprotection

Due to changes in human lifestyle (expanded sunbathing, the use of solaria, etc.) and, most importantly, increasing lifetime and thus higher cumulative exposure to solar radiation, skin aging and skin cancer have become major health issues. As a consequence effective photoprotection is of outmost importance to humans. In this regard a lot has been learned in the past about the cellular and molecular basis underlying ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced skin damage and, based on this knowledge, numerous skin protective approaches including organic and inorganic UV-filters, but also topically applicable antioxidants, DNA repair enzymes and compatible solutes as well as oral photoprotective strategies based on nutritional supplements have been developed. A new aspect is here that sun protection of human skin might even be possible after solar radiation-induced skin damage has occurred. A second, very important development was prompted by the discovery that also wavelengths beyond the UV spectrum can damage human skin. These include the blue light region of visible light (VIS) as well as the near infrared range (IRA) and corresponding sunprotection strategies have thus recently been or are still being developed. In this article we will provide a state of the art summary of these two novel developments and, at the end, we will also critically discuss strengths and weaknesses of the current attempts, which mainly focus on the prevention of skin damage by selected wavelengths but greatly ignore the possibility that wavelengths might interfere with each other. Such combined effects, however, need to be taken into account if photoprotection of human skin is intended to be global in nature.

A Specific Melon Concentrate Exhibits Photoprotective Effects from Antioxidant Activity in Healthy Adults

Skin is the largest body organ and the first barrier to exogenous threats. This organ is constantly exposed to external factors such as ultraviolet radiation, which induces many adverse effects including sunburn, depigmentation, photo aging, photo immune suppression, and even skin cancer. Antioxidants seem to be good candidates in order to reduce ultraviolet-mediated damages and to prevent the health consequences of ultraviolet exposure. The present investigation aims to further characterize the potential skin photoprotective effects of a food supplementation and a topical administration of a melon concentrate alone or in combination. A clinical study assessing the Minimal Erythema Dose (MED) was first set up to evaluate photoprotection. Afterward, an independent in vitro study was performed on human skin explants from a donor to evaluate the effect of the melon concentrate at different levels including on the sunburn cells formation and on the endogenous antioxidant enzymes and its influence on melanin. Clinical study results demonstrate that melon concentrate application and/or supplementation increased MED. It also increased the endogenous antioxidant enzymes and reduced sunburn cells and melanin level on irradiated skin explants. Therefore, it is suggested that melon concentrate administration (oral and/or topical) could be a useful strategy for photoprotection due to its antioxidant properties.

Infrared radiation increases skin damage induced by other wavelengths in solar urticaria

BACKGROUND

Photodermatoses are typically investigated by analyzing the individual or combined effects of ultraviolet A (UVA), ultraviolet B (UVB), and visible light using light sources that simulate portions of the solar spectrum. Infrared radiation (IRR), however, accounts for 53% of incident solar radiation, but its effects are not taken into account in standard phototest protocols.

AIMS

The aim was to analyze the effects of IRR, alone and combined with UVA and visible light on solar urticaria lesions, with a distinction between infrared A (IRA) and infrared B (IRB).

METHODS

We performed standard phototests with UVA and visible light in four patients with solar urticaria and also tested the effects after blocking IRB with a water filter. To analyze the direct effect of IRR, we performed phototests with IRA and IRB.

RESULTS

Initial standard phototests that were all positive found the induction of erythema and whealing, while when IRR was blocked from the UVA and visible light sources, three of the patients developed no lesions, while the fourth developed a very small wheal.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that IRR has the potential to produce and exacerbate lesions caused by other types of radiation. Consideration of these effects during phototesting could help prevent diagnostic errors.

Infrared A radiation promotes survival of human melanocytes carrying ultraviolet radiation-induced DNA damage

The link between solar radiation and melanoma is still elusive. Although infrared radiation (IR) accounts for over 50% of terrestrial solar energy, its influence on human skin is not well explored. There is increasing evidence that IR influences the expression patterns of several molecules independently of heat. A previous in vivo study revealed that pretreatment with IR might promote the development of UVR-induced non-epithelial skin cancer and possibly of melanoma in mice. To expand on this, the aim of the present study was to evaluate the impact of IR on UVR-induced apoptosis and DNA repair in normal human epidermal melanocytes. The balance between these two effects is a key factor of malignant transformation. Human melanocytes were exposed to physiologic doses of IR and UVR. Compared to cells irradiated with UVR only, simultaneous exposure to IR significantly reduced the apoptotic rate. However, IR did not influence the repair of UVR-induced DNA damage. IR partly reversed the pro-apoptotic effects of UVR via modification of the expression and activity of proteins mainly of the extrinsic apoptotic pathway. In conclusion, IR enhances the survival of melanocytes carrying UVR-induced DNA damage and thereby might contribute to melanomagenesis.

Exposure and sun protection practices of university students

OBJECTIVE

to learn exposure and sun protection practices for university students.

METHOD

a descriptive, cross-sectional study performed at a university in São Paulo.

RESULTS

the sample consisted of 385 young and data collection conducted through a form. Of the total, 239 (62%) young people were classified as skin type III and IV and 69 (17.9%) affirmed to have a history of skin cancer in the family. Most affirmed exposure to the sun between 10 a.m and 04 p.m and for more than one hour; 112 (29.1%) informed not employ safeguards. Among those who use sunscreen, the minority does so regularly.

CONCLUSION

although the sample was made up of people with greater access to information, it was found exposure and sunscreen improperly. Education, individual and collective actions should be strengthened and prioritized given the incidence of skin cancer in the country.

N-(4-bromophenethyl) Caffeamide Protects Skin from UVB-Induced Inflammation Through MAPK/IL-6/NF-κB-Dependent Signaling in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Hairless Mouse Skin

Long-term exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes skin inflammation and aging. N-(4-bromophenethyl) caffeamide (K36H) possesses antioxidant and antimelanogenic properties. The present study investigated the effects of K36H on UVB-induced skin inflammation in human skin fibroblasts and hairless mice and evaluated the underlying mechanisms. The in vitro results indicated that K36H reduced UVB-induced mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAP kinase) expression. Furthermore, K36H treatment reduced cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) protein expression in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts by regulating IκB and nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB) expression. In the animal study, topically applied K36H markedly reduced inflammation and skin thickness and prevented photodamage to the skin of hairless mice. In addition, K36H inhibited the levels of UV-upregulated inflammation-related proteins levels such as IL-1, iNOS, and NF-κB in the dermis of hairless mice. Our findings demonstrated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of K36H in human skin fibroblasts and hairless mice. Therefore, K36H can be developed as an antiphotodamage and antiphotoinflammation agent.

Development of an in vitro Test Procedure to Determine the Direct Infrared A Protection of Sunscreens and Non-Cosmetic Samples

BACKGROUND

Every day human skin is exposed to infrared A (IRA) radiation as part of the natural sun rays. As IRA radiation accounts for around one third of the solar radiation, it has gained great attention concerning its effects on the human body and skin. In the past few years it has been discussed controversially whether IRA radiation (of solar origin) is harmful or not. Nonetheless, there are several sunscreens on the German market that claim IRA protection for themselves.

AIMS

The present study seeks to find an experimental set-up and a test procedure for the determination and quantification of direct IRA protection (realized via reflection or absorption of the IRA radiation), since to our knowledge these do not yet exist.

METHODS

In this study we proved the usability of a set-up consisting of a light source, an IRA-transmissible filter system and a sensor unit, for the determination and quantification of the IRA protection of cosmetic and non-cosmetic samples.

RESULTS/CONCLUSION

The applicability of the IRA emission of the light source, the spectral detector, transmissivity of the filter systems and the sample carriers could be validated. This experimental set-up can be used as an in vitro test procedure for the determination of direct IRA protection.

The Use of Directional Reflectance Measurement for in vivo Assessment of Protective Properties of Cosmetics in the Infrared Radiation Range

Photoprotection of skin is now focused on UV radiation. The aim of this study was to evaluate in vivo cosmetic products in terms of protection against infrared radiation (IR) and propose a methodology for conducting such measurements. The directional reflectance (DR) of 12 UV filters, six care creams and two preparations containing fumed silica applied on the forearm of 36 volunteers was examined in six spectral bands for two angles of incidence. SOC-410 Directional Hemispherical Reflectometer was used to measure DR. There is very little change in DR for all spectral bands for both incident angles for both UV filters, care creams and preparations containing fumed silica. For example, for 15% of fumed silica in glycerin for the spectral band of 0.9-1.1 μm and the incident angle of 20°, skin DR prior to application was 0.543; 5 min after application was 0.533 and 30 min after application was 0.559. Both UV filters, care creams and fumed silica do not protect skin against IR. The proposed method of in vivo measurements is superior to in vitro studies which have been conducted so far because it takes into account both the refractive index at the tissue/air interface and the absorption of IR by adipose tissue.

Biological effects and medical applications of infrared radiation

Infrared (IR) radiation is electromagnetic radiation with wavelengths between 760nm and 100,000nm. Low-level light therapy (LLLT) or photobiomodulation (PBM) therapy generally employs light at red and near-infrared wavelengths (600-100nm) to modulate biological activity. Many factors, conditions, and parameters influence the therapeutic effects of IR, including fluence, irradiance, treatment timing and repetition, pulsing, and wavelength. Increasing evidence suggests that IR can carry out photostimulation and photobiomodulation effects particularly benefiting neural stimulation, wound healing, and cancer treatment. Nerve cells respond particularly well to IR, which has been proposed for a range of neurostimulation and neuromodulation applications, and recent progress in neural stimulation and regeneration are discussed in this review. The applications of IR therapy have moved on rapidly in recent years. For example, IR therapy has been developed that does not actually require an external power source, such as IR-emitting materials, and garments that can be powered by body heat alone. Another area of interest is the possible involvement of solar IR radiation in photoaging or photorejuvenation as opposites sides of the coin, and whether sunscreens should protect against solar IR? A better understanding of new developments and biological implications of IR could help us to improve therapeutic effectiveness or develop new methods of PBM using IR wavelengths.

Radical-Scavenging Activity of a Sunscreen Enriched by Antioxidants Providing Protection in the Whole Solar Spectral Range

BACKGROUND/AIM

The main reason for extrinsic skin aging is the negative action of free radicals. The formation of free radicals in the skin has been associated with ultraviolet (UV) exposure and also to visible (VIS) and near-infrared (NIR) irradiations. The aim of the present study was to evaluate the efficacy of a sunscreen in the whole solar range.

METHODS

The radical-scavenging activity of a sunscreen in the UV, VIS, and NIR ranges was evaluated using electron paramagnetic resonance spectroscopy. Ex vivo penetration profiles were determined using confocal Raman microscopy on porcine ear skin at different time points after application.

RESULTS

Compared to the untreated skin, the sunscreen decreased the skin radical formation in the UV and VIS regions. Additional protection in the VIS and NIR ranges was observed for the sunscreen containing antioxidants (AO). The penetration depth of the cream was less than 11.2 ± 3.0 µm for all time points.

CONCLUSION

A sunscreen containing AO improved the photoprotection in the VIS and NIR ranges. The sunscreen was retained in the stratum corneum. Therefore, these results show the possibility of the development of effective and safer sunscreen products.

[New aspects in the development of sunscreening agents]

Sunlight is indispensable for life. Skin aging is determined not only by genetic factors but also by the influence of solar radiation which in all its spectral regions induces free radicals in the human skin. Below a critical concentration, free radicals are important for signaling processes in the human body. Exceeding a critical threshold value (FRTV), however, free radicals lead to cellular damage which, in turn, can induce skin aging, immunosuppression and even skin cancer. Recently it could be shown that 50% of the free radicals induced in the human skin by solar radiation were caused by the visible and infrared spectral regions. Taking into consideration that people who use sunscreen stay considerably longer in the sun than unprotected people, their skin could be exposed to free radical formation in the visible and infrared spectral regions, which far exceeds the critical threshold. Filter substances like those used in sunscreens for skin protection in the ultraviolet region are not available for the visible and infrared spectral regions. Using the natural protection mechanisms of the human skin as examples, however, the protective effect of sunscreens can be considerably enhanced by the addition of scattering and reflective pigments, such as titanium dioxide, as well as of antioxidants which neutralize the free radicals. Currently the focus of sunscreen development is shifting from mere UV protection to protection covering the entire solar spectrum.