Prevention of DNA damage in human skin by topical sunscreens

Nuclear and Urinary Measurements Show the Efficacy of Sun-Protection Factor 50+ Sunscreen against DNA Photoproducts upon Real-Life Recreational Exposure

Sunscreens have been shown to protect against UVR-induced DNA damage in human skin under laboratory conditions. We presently extended these observations to real-life conditions in volunteers after their ordinary exposure habits during summer holidays. Volunteers were randomly assigned to a control group and an educated group supplied with a SPF ≥50 sunscreen and receiving instructions for use. A questionnaire was used to determine the extent of exposure. No difference in average solar UVR exposure was found between the two groups. DNA photoprotection was first assessed by, to our knowledge, a previously unreported noninvasive assay on the basis of the quantification of pyrimidine dimers released by DNA repair in urine. Damage was also quantified in the nuclear DNA extracted from the roof of suction blisters collected after recreational exposure. The urinary concentration of photoproducts was significantly higher in the control than in the educated group. The same trend was observed for the level of photoproducts in the DNA from suction blisters. The unambiguous observation of an efficient photoprotection against DNA damage afforded by sunscreen under real-life conditions provides strong support for the efficiency of the sunscreens. In addition, the results validate the use of urinary DNA photoproducts as a noninvasive assay applicable to photoprotection.

Comparison between endocrine activity assessed using ToxCast/Tox21 database and human plasma concentration of sunscreen active ingredients/UV filters

Sunscreen products are composed of ultraviolet (UV) filters and formulated to reduce exposure to sunlight thereby lessening skin damage. Concerns have been raised regarding the toxicity and potential endocrine disrupting (ED) effects of UV filters. The ToxCast/Tox21 program, that is, CompTox, is a high-throughput in vitro screening database of chemicals that identify adverse outcome pathways, key events, and ED potential of chemicals. Using the ToxCast/Tox21 database, octisalate, homosalate, octocrylene, oxybenzone, octinoxate, and avobenzone, 6 commonly used organic UV filters, were found to have been evaluated. These UV filters showed low potency in these bioassays with most activity detected above the range of the cytotoxic burst. The pathways that were most affected were the cell cycle and the nuclear receptor pathways. Most activity was observed in liver and kidney-based bioassays. These organic filters and their metabolites showed relatively weak ED activity when tested in bioassays measuring estrogen receptor (ER), androgen receptor (AR), thyroid receptor, and steroidogenesis activity. Except for oxybenzone, all activity in the endocrine assays occurred at concentrations greater than the cytotoxic burst. Moreover, except for oxybenzone, plasma concentrations (Cmax) measured in humans were at least 100× lower than bioactive (AC50/ACC) concentrations that produced a response in ToxCast/Tox21 assays. These data are consistent with in vivo animal/human studies showing weak or negligible endocrine activity. In sum, when considered as part of a weight-of-evidence assessment and compared with measured plasma concentrations, the results show these organic UV filters have low intrinsic biological activity and risk of toxicity including endocrine disruption in humans.

Cosmeceutical formulations of pro-vitamin E phosphate: In-vitro release testing and dermal penetration into excised human skin

Long-term exposure to solar radiation can lead to skin damage such as photoageing, and photocarcinogenesis. This can be prevented by topically applying α-tocopherol phosphate (α-TP). The major challenge is that a significant amount of α-TP needs to reach viable skin layers for effective photoprotection. This study aims to develop candidate formulations of α-TP (gel-like, solution, lotion, and gel), and investigate formulation characteristics' effect on membrane diffusion and human skin permeation. All the formulations developed in the study had an appealing appearance and no signs of separation. All formulations had low viscosity and high spreadability except the gel. The flux of α-TP through the polyethersulfone membrane was the highest for lotion (6.63 ± 0.86 mg/cm²/h), followed by control gel-like (6.14 ± 1.76 mg/cm²/h), solution (4.65 ± 0.86 mg/cm²/h), and gel (1.02 ± 0.22 mg/cm²/h). The flux of α-TP through the human skin membrane was numerically higher for lotion compared to the gel-like (328.6 vs.175.2 µg/cm²/h). The lotion delivered 3-fold and 5-fold higher α-TP in viable skin layers at 3 h and 24 h, respectively, compared to that of the gel-like. The low skin membrane penetration rate and deposition of α-TP in viable skin layers were observed for the solution and gel. Our study demonstrated that dermal penetration of α-TP was influenced by characteristics of formulation such as formulation type, pH, and viscosity. The α-TP in the lotion scavenged higher DPPH free radicals compared to that of gel-like (almost 73% vs. 46%). The IC₅₀ of α-TP in lotion was significantly lower than that of gel-like (397.2 vs. 626.0 µg/mL). The preservative challenge test specifications were fulfilled by Geogard 221 and suggested that the combination of benzyl alcohol and Dehydroacetic Acid effectively preserved 2% α-TP lotion. This result confirms the suitability of the α-TP cosmeceutical lotion formulation employed in the present work for effective photoprotection.

Photo-repair effect of a bacterial Antarctic CPD-photolyase on UVC-induced DNA lesions in human keratinocytes

Exposure to ultraviolet radiation from sunlight induces oxidative DNA lesions and bipyrimidine photoproducts that can lead to photo-aging and skin carcinogenesis. CPD-photolyases are flavoproteins that repair cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers using blue light as an energy source. In the present work, we evaluated the photo-repair effect of the recombinant CPD-photolyase PhrAHym from the Antarctic bacterium Hymenobacter sp. UV11 on DNA lesions in human keratinocytes induced by UVC light. By performing immunochemistry assays we observed that PhrAHym repairs in a highly efficient way the CPD-photoproducts and reduces the γH2AX formation. Since this enzyme is non-cytotoxic and repairs UVC-induced DNA lesions in human keratinocytes, we propose that PhrAHym could be used as a biotherapeutic agent against UV-induced skin cancer, photoaging, and related diseases.

The dynamic behaviour of sunscreens under in-service conditions

Discussion continues over various aspects of sunscreen science: regulation, test methods, sun protection factor (SPF), labelling claims, potentially harmful components, among others. In this paper the UV transmission properties of a number of commercial sunscreens have been determined at constant sunscreen film thickness under different local UV Index conditions. The data demonstrate difficulties facing the public and the sunscreen industry as a whole, even though SPF values and other data stated on the sunscreen packaging are assumed to be correct according to standard testing methods. This work has shown that at realistic application rates the critical factors are the intensity of the incident solar radiation and the accumulated erythema UV dose transmitted over time. In one example, on 'Extreme' UV Index days, an SPF 30 sunscreen under test transmitted one minimal erythema dose (MED) of UV in only 35 min. In another example, although it should not, in theory, transmit one MED until several hours of exposure, this level was reached in 1 h by an SPF 50 sunscreen under these typical Australian summer conditions (UV Index 12) in Wollongong, NSW (34.4°S). Such properties could have severe consequnces if these sunscreens were used by individuals with Fitzpatrick Skin Type 1, organ transplant recipients or other immuno-compromised individuals.

"Repeatability of Repeatability": the stability of self-reported melanoma risk factors in two independent samples

OBJECTIVE

To determine the test-retest repeatability of a self-completed survey with items capturing skin cancer risk factors.

METHODS

We invited 238 randomly selected participants of the QSkin II cohort to complete the baseline survey a second time. Responses were compared using kappa statistics and intraclass correlation coefficients to quantify agreement for categorical and continuous variables, respectively. We compared the performance of key items with that observed in an earlier repeatability study using the same survey instrument in an independent cohort.

RESULTS

Measures of phenotypic characteristics had moderate to almost-perfect test-retest repeatability (e.g. eye colour weighted kappa (κ_w ) = 0.87, 95% confidence interval [CI]: 0.81, 0.92). Items measuring sun exposure showed lower agreement (κ_w range 0.36-0.54) compared with phenotypic characteristics (κ_w range 0.59-0.87). Items relating to treatment of skin cancers demonstrated almost-perfect test-retest repeatability (e.g. excisions for skin cancers κ_w 0.85, 95%CI: 0.80, 0.89). In aggregate, the repeatability of key items was very similar across the two independent repeatability samples.

CONCLUSION

Fair to almost-perfect repeatability for self-reported skin cancer risk factors was robust across independent and temporally distant cohorts. Implications for public health: These self-assessed risk factors for skin cancer are repeatable and suitable for use in clinical practice and research.

Chemical Composition and Protective Effect of Young Barley (Hordeum vulgare L.) Dietary Supplements Extracts on UV-Treated Human Skin Fibroblasts in In Vitro Studies

Young barley seems to be a promising material for use as nutricosmetic due to the presence of many biologically active compounds. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of Hordeum vulgare L. extracts on human skin fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation B (UVB) radiation. Analysis of the chemical composition showed a predominance of 9,12,15-octadecatrienoic acid. The quality assessment showed that young barley preparations have high total polyphenolic content (TPC) and favourable total antioxidant status (TAS). They also contain antioxidant elements such as zinc, copper, and selenium. Furthermore, the analyzed products were found to be safe in terms of toxic elements (lead, cadmium and mercury) and lack of cytotoxic effect of young barley extracts on cells. In vitro bioactivity assays showed that young barley extract increased the survival rate and accelerated the migration of fibroblasts in research models with UVB radiation. The application of both extracts caused an increase in DNA biosynthesis, and in the number of cells arrested in S phase. Moreover, an inhibitory effect of the tested extracts on the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP-2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP-9) was observed. The results indicate that young barley extracts, due to protective as well as restorative effect, could potentially be used in the production of nutricosmetics and skin care products.

In vitro skin model for characterization of sunscreen substantivity upon perspiration

OBJECTIVE

The resistance of sunscreens to the loss of ultraviolet (UV) protection upon perspiration is important for their practical efficacy. However, this topic is largely overlooked in evaluations of sunscreen substantivity due to the relatively few well-established protocols compared to those for water resistance and mechanical wear.

METHODS

In an attempt to achieve a better fundamental understanding of sunscreen behaviour in response to sweat exposure, we have developed a perspiring skin simulator, containing a substrate surface that mimics sweating human skin. Using this perspiring skin simulator, we evaluated sunscreen performance upon perspiration by in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) measurements, optical microscopy, ultraviolet (UV) reflectance imaging and coherent anti-Stokes Raman scattering (CARS) microscopy.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

Results indicated that perspiration reduced sunscreen efficiency through two mechanisms, namely sunscreen wash-off (impairing the film thickness) and sunscreen redistribution (impairing the film uniformity). Further, we investigated how the sweat rate affected these mechanisms and how sunscreen application dose influenced UV protection upon perspiration. As expected, higher sweat rates led to a large loss of UV protection, while a larger application dose led to larger amounts of sunscreen being washed-off and redistributed but also provided higher UV protection before and after sweating.

Assessing Sunscreen Protection Using UV Photography: Descriptive Study

BACKGROUND

Photography using a UV transmitting filter allows UV light to pass and can be used to illuminate UV blocking lotions such as sunscreens.

OBJECTIVE

The aim of this study is to compare currently available UV photography cameras and assess whether these devices can be used as visualization tools for adequate coverage of sun protection lotions.

METHODS

This study was conducted in 3 parts: in phase 1, 3 different UV cameras were tested; in phase 2, we explored whether UV photography could work on a range of sun protection products; and in phase 3, a UV webcam was developed and was field-tested in a beach setting. In phase 1, volunteers were recruited, and researchers applied 3 sun protection products (ranging from sun protection factor [SPF] 15 to 50+) to the participants' faces and arms. UV photography was performed using 3 UV cameras, and the subsequent images were compared. In phase 2, volunteers were recruited and asked to apply their own SPF products to their faces in their usual manner. UV photographs were collected in the morning and afternoon to assess whether the coverage remained over time. Qualitative interviews were conducted to assess the participants' level of satisfaction with the UV image. In phase 3, a small portable UV webcam was designed using a plug-and-play approach to enable the viewing of UV images on a larger screen. The developed webcam was deployed at a public beach setting for use by the public for 7 days.

RESULTS

The 3 UV camera systems tested during phase 1 identified the application of a range of sun protection lotions of SPF 15 to 50+. The sensitivity of the UV camera devices was shown to be adequate, with SPF-containing products applied at concentrations of 2 and 1 mg/cm2 clearly visible and SPF-containing products applied at a concentration of 0.4 mg/cm2 having lower levels of coverage. Participants in phase 2 reported high satisfaction with the UV photography images, with 83% (29/35) of participants likely to use UV photography in the future. During phase 2, it was noted that many participants used tinted SPF-containing cosmetics, and several tinted products were further tested. However, it was observed that UV photography could not identify the areas missed for all tinted products. During phase 3, the electrical components of the UV webcam remained operational, and the camera was used 233 times by the public during field-testing.

CONCLUSIONS

In this study, we found that UV photography could identify the areas missed by sun protection lotions with chemical filters, and participants were engaged with personalized feedback.

TRIAL REGISTRATION

Australian New Zealand Clinical Trials Registry (ANZCTR) ACTRN12619000975190; http://www.anzctr.org.au/Trial/Registration/TrialReview.aspx?id=377089 ; Australian New Zealand Clinical Trials Registry (ANZCTR) ACTRN12619000145101; https://www.anzctr.org.au/Trial/Registration/TrialReview.aspx?id=376672.

Photoprotection With Mineral-Based Sunscreens

BACKGROUND

Although chemical sunscreens have traditionally been at the forefront of sun protection, safety concerns and increasing awareness of the environmental impact of personal-care products have led to greater interest in the use of mineral blockers as photoprotective agents.

OBJECTIVE

To examine the safety and efficacy of mineral-based sunscreens to allow patients to make informed choices about ultraviolet (UV) protection.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A review of the literature was performed using the PubMed database.

RESULTS

This article provides an overview of physical blockers and focuses on the efficacy of mineral sunscreens in offering broad-spectrum UV protection and safety concerns, including the controversy surrounding the use of nanoparticles. Practical tips for application are also reviewed.

CONCLUSION

Mineral sunscreens are an attractive, efficacious option for consumers who prefer alternative choices in sun protection.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.

Promoting sunscreen use in adolescents playing outdoor sports using UV detection stickers

Sunscreen is a popular form of sun protection and when applied sufficiently (2 mg/cm²) has been shown to block the harmful molecular effects of ultraviolet radiation (UV). This field study tested the effectiveness of UV detection stickers to improve sunscreen use. During a rugby league two-day sporting event (28–29 February 2020) in Queensland, Australia interested players 14–18 years old were provided with access to free sunscreen on DAY-1 and during the subsequent day (DAY-2) were provided with a free UV detection sticker and access to sunscreen. On DAY-2, one UV detection sticker was handed out to 550 attendees. The sunscreen bottles were weighted periodically by research staff throughout both event days. Primary outcomes were sunscreen usage. Overall, 868 g of sunscreen was used across both DAY-1 and DAY-2, with 19% (167 g) of sunscreen used on DAY-1 and 81% (701 g) of sunscreen used on DAY-2. This resulted in a >3-fold improvement in sunscreen use on DAY-2 when the UV detection stickers were provided. We found UV detection stickers may improve use of sunscreen in adolescents during sporting events in high UV environments.

Apple Extract (Malus sp.) and Rutin as Photochemopreventive Agents: Evaluation of Ultraviolet B-Induced Alterations on Skin Biopsies and Tissue-Engineered Skin

The skin is exposed to the solar ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation, which leads to the formation of several types of skin damage responsible for cancer initiation and aging. Malus sp. is a genus of apples, which are a good source of polyphenolic compounds. Malus sp. and more precisely one of its components, rutin, have preventive effects on many diseases caused by reactive oxygen species. In addition, previous studies have suggested the topical usage of the extract as a cosmetic product to prevent skin damage caused by oxidative stress. In this study, we evaluated the efficacy of two topical formulations containing 1.25% of Malus sp. extract and the equivalent amount of rutin (0.75%). The photochemopreventive effect was assessed on two three-dimensional (3D) skin models, that is, ex vivo skin explants and 3D tissue-engineered skin to compare the models. Both formulations protected against the UVB-induced increase in sunburn cell formation, as well as caspase-3 activation and cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer formation in both skin models. Furthermore, the formulations inhibited the lipid peroxidation and the metalloproteinase formation induced by UVB radiation. The tissue-engineered skins and the skin explants provided effective tools to assess the UVB-induced damages. These results support use of the Malus sp. extract and rutin as skin photochemopreventive agents for topical application.

Ensuring the Safety of Sunscreens, and Their Efficacy in Preventing Skin Cancers: Challenges and Controversies for Clinicians, Formulators, and Regulators

When people think about sun-protection or prevention of skin cancer, sunscreens readily come to mind. Sunscreen effectiveness is tested in vivo by the ability to prevent erythema of skin, yet testing methods vary between markets, and many sunscreens fail to achieve their claims. This article discusses the mechanism of action of sunscreens, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), safety concerns and the challenges for regulators. Many sunscreens that prevent erythema do not provide adequate protection as they contain anti-inflammatory agents; others have ingredients whose risks have not been fully evaluated. This article reviews the imperfect science behind sunscreens and points out the gaps in knowledge regarding safety, efficacy, public knowledge, and perception. Regulations vary between countries and only adds to the confusion. To truly prevent skin cancer, clinicians, formulators and regulators need to come together to research more and improve public education.

Not part of my routine: a qualitative study of use and understanding of UV forecast information and the SunSmart app

Background

The Ultraviolet (UV) Index provides a reliable means of monitoring the strength of UV radiation at the Earth’s surface, which can be used to indicate the potential for skin damage. This qualitative study aims to examine public understanding of the UV Index among Australians who routinely use UV forecast information as well as those who do not.

Methods

Recent use of the SunSmart app (a popular mobile and tablet app that provides UV forecast information) served as a proxy for use of UV forecast information. Six focus groups were conducted with ‘new users’, who trialled the SunSmart app for the first time in the two weeks preceding the group discussion. In addition, 15 in-depth interviews were conducted with ‘existing users’, who routinely used the SunSmart app. Thematic discourse analysis was undertaken to compare views and experiences.

Results

Misperceptions about UV radiation were common. Participants learnt new information about UV radiation, the UV Index, and the times of the day that sun protection is recommended. Among adults who were using UV forecast information for the first time, this learning rarely translated to new behaviours; for these participants, the UV Index forecast information and recommendations were inconsistent with their own observation of the weather and subsequent judgement about their propensity to burn. Thus new users considered the UV forecast information to be overly cautious. In contrast, existing users recognised their inability to judge the UV Index level; for these participants, UV forecast information provided by the SunSmart app was incorporated into their daily routines and used to inform their sun protection behaviours.

Conclusions/implications

No matter how broadly UV forecast information is promoted, it is unlikely to improve sun protection behaviours across the Victorian population due to the low level of basic understanding of UV radiation. Public education strategies that correct the commonly held misperception that temperature and/or sunshine can reliably predict the potential for UV damage are required. Improved public awareness about UV radiation and how the UV Index can be used to prevent skin cancer may help Australians to develop more effective sun protection habits.

Sunscreen photoprotection and vitamin D status

Background

Global concern about vitamin D deficiency has fuelled debates on photoprotection and the importance of solar exposure to meet vitamin D requirements.

Objectives

To review the published evidence to reach a consensus on the influence of photoprotection by sunscreens on vitamin D status, considering other relevant factors.

Methods

An international panel of 13 experts in endocrinology, dermatology, photobiology, epidemiology and biological anthropology reviewed the literature prior to a 1‐day meeting in June 2017, during which the evidence was discussed. Methods of assessment and determining factors of vitamin D status, and public health perspectives were examined and consequences of sun exposure and the effects of photoprotection were assessed.

Results

A serum level of ≥ 50 nmol L⁻¹ 25(OH)D is a target for all individuals. Broad‐spectrum sunscreens that prevent erythema are unlikely to compromise vitamin D status in healthy populations. Vitamin D screening should be restricted to those at risk of hypovitaminosis, such as patients with photosensitivity disorders, who require rigorous photoprotection. Screening and supplementation are advised for this group.

Conclusions

Sunscreen use for daily and recreational photoprotection does not compromise vitamin D synthesis, even when applied under optimal conditions.

What's already known about this topic?

Knowledge of the relationship between solar exposure behaviour, sunscreen use and vitamin D is important for public health but there is confusion about optimal vitamin D status and the safest way to achieve this.

Practical recommendations on the potential impact of daily and/or recreational sunscreens on vitamin D status are lacking for healthy people.

What does this study add?

Judicious use of daily broad‐spectrum sunscreens with high ultraviolet (UV) A protection will not compromise vitamin D status in healthy people.

However, photoprotection strategies for patients with photosensitivity disorders that include high sun‐protection factor sunscreens with high UVA protection, along with protective clothing and shade‐seeking behaviour are likely to compromise vitamin D status.

Screening for vitamin D status and supplementation are recommended in patients with photosensitivity disorders.

Linked Comment: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.18126.

https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.18494 available online

UV detection stickers can assist people to reapply sunscreen

Sunscreen when applied at the recommended concentration (2 mg/cm²) has been shown to block the harmful molecular effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) in vivo. In real world conditions, however, sunscreen is often not applied/reapplied sufficiently to yield protection. This field study tested the effectiveness of UV detection stickers to prevent sunburn and improve reapplication of sunscreen. During the Ashes Cricket Test match event (November 2017) in Brisbane, Australia interested spectators were recruited into the control group on DAY-1 and during subsequent days (DAY-2, DAY-3, DAY-4) new participants were recruited into the UV-Sticker group. Participants in both groups were provided with free sunscreen and participants in the UV-Sticker group were additionally provided with a UV detection sticker. Primary outcomes were self-reported sunburns and reapplication of sunscreen. Secondary endpoints included satisfaction with the UV detection stickers. 813 participants enrolled in the study, and complete data is available for 428 participants (52.6% response rate, n = 369 UV detection sticker, n = 59 control). Participants provided with a UV detection sticker were more likely to re-apply sunscreen than controls (80% vs 68%, p = 0.04); but do not reduce sunburn rates. UV detection stickers may improve sunscreen re-application in a high UV-environment. Trial registration: Australian and New Zealand clinical trials register (ACTRN12617001572358).

Challenges in assessing the sunscreen-melanoma association

Whether sunscreen use affects melanoma risk has been widely studied with contradictory results. To answer this question we performed a systematic review of all published studies, accounting for sources of heterogeneity and bias. We searched for original articles investigating the sunscreen-melanoma association in humans to February 28, 2018. We then used random-effects meta-analysis to combine estimates of the association, stratified by study design. Stratified meta-analysis and meta-regression were used to identify sources of heterogeneity. We included 21,069 melanoma cases from 28 studies published 1979-2018: 23 case-control (11 hospital-based, 12 population-based), 1 ecological, 3 cohort and 1 randomised controlled trial (RCT). There was marked heterogeneity across study designs and among case-control studies but adjustment for confounding by sun exposure, sunburns and phenotype systematically moved estimates toward decreased melanoma risk among sunscreen users. Ever- vs. never-use of sunscreen was inversely associated with melanoma in hospital-based case-control studies (adjusted odds ratio (OR) = 0.57, 95%confidence interval (CI) 0.37-0.87, pheterogeneity < 0.001), the ecological study (rate ratio = 0.48, 95%CI 0.35-0.66), and the RCT (hazard ratio (HR) = 0.49, 95%CI 0.24-1.01). It was not associated in population-based case-control studies (OR = 1.17, 95%CI 0.90-1.51, pheterogeneity < 0.001) and was positively associated in the cohort studies (HR = 1.27, 95%CI 1.07-1.51, pheterogeneity = 0.236). The association differed by latitude (pinteraction = 0.042), region (pinteraction = 0.008), adjustment for naevi/freckling (pinteraction = 0.035), and proportion of never-sunscreen-users (pinteraction = 0·012). Evidence from observational studies on sunscreen use and melanoma risk was weak and heterogeneous, consistent with the challenges of controlling for innate confounding by indication. The only RCT showed a protective effect of sunscreen.

Optimal sunscreen use, during a sun holiday with a very high ultraviolet index, allows vitamin D synthesis without sunburn

Background

Sunlight contains ultraviolet (UV)A and UVB radiation. UVB is essential for vitamin D synthesis but is the main cause of sunburn and skin cancer. Sunscreen use is advocated to reduce the sun's adverse effects but may compromise vitamin D status.

Objectives

To assess the ability of two intervention sunscreens to inhibit vitamin D synthesis during a week‐long sun holiday.

Methods

The impact of sunscreens on vitamin D status was studied during a 1‐week sun holiday in Tenerife (28° N). Comparisons were made between two formulations, each with a sun protection factor (SPF) of 15. The UVA‐protection factor (PF) was low in one case and high in the other. Healthy Polish volunteers (n = 20 per group) were given the sunscreens and advised on the correct application. Comparisons were also made with discretionary sunscreen use (n = 22) and nonholiday groups (51·8° N, n = 17). Sunscreen use in the intervention groups was measured. Behaviour, UV radiation exposure, clothing cover and sunburn were monitored. Serum 25‐hydroxyvitamin D₃ [25(OH)D₃] was assessed by high‐performance liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry.

Results

Use of intervention sunscreens was the same (P = 0·60), and both equally inhibited sunburn, which was present in the discretionary use group. There was an increase (P < 0·001) in mean ± SD 25(OH)D₃ (28·0 ± 16·5 nmol L⁻¹) in the discretionary use group. The high and low UVA‐PF sunscreen groups showed statistically significant increases (P < 0·001) of 19·0 ± 14·2 and 13·0 ± 11·4 nmol L⁻¹ 25(OH)D₃, respectively with P = 0·022 for difference between the intervention sunscreens. The nonholiday group showed a fall (P = 0·08) of 2·5 ± 5·6 nmol L⁻¹ 25(OH)D₃.

Conclusions

Sunscreens may be used to prevent sunburn yet allow vitamin D synthesis. A high UVA‐PF sunscreen enables significantly higher vitamin D synthesis than a low UVA‐PF sunscreen because the former, by default, transmits more UVB than the latter.

What's already known about this topic?

Action spectra (wavelength dependence) for erythema and the cutaneous formation of vitamin D overlap considerably in the ultraviolet (UV)B region.

Theoretically, sunscreens that inhibit erythema should also inhibit vitamin D synthesis.

To date, studies on the inhibitory effects of sunscreens on vitamin D synthesis have given conflicting results, possibly, in part, because people typically apply sunscreen suboptimally.

Many studies have design flaws.

What does this study add?

Sunscreens (sun protection factor, SPF 15) applied at sufficient thickness to inhibit sunburn during a week‐long holiday with a very high UV index still allow a highly significant improvement of serum 25‐hydroxyvitamin D₃ concentration.

An SPF 15 formulation with high UVA protection enables better vitamin D synthesis than a low UVA protection product. The former allows more UVB transmission.

Linked Editorial: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.18273.

https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.18492 available online

https://www.bjdonline.com/article/optimal-sunscreen-use-during-a-sun-holiday-with-a-very-high-ultraviolet-index-allows-vitamin-d-synthesis-without-sunburn/

A series of in vitro and human studies of a novel lip cream formulation for protecting against environmental triggers of recurrent herpes labialis

Purpose

These studies describe the testing of a novel, daily-use lip cream designed for individuals with lips prone to recurrent herpes labialis (RHL) that protects against environmental triggers.

Subjects and methods

In vitro occlusive and in vitro and in vivo photoprotection analyses, a characterization of normal vs dry lips, and a randomized, evaluator-blinded, clinical trial that assessed the lip cream in healthy subjects with dry lips were conducted. In the clinical trial, subjects applied the lip cream or were untreated and evaluated using transepidermal water loss (TEWL), corneometry, visual assessments of lip dryness, expert photographic evaluations, and subject-rated outcomes.

Results

The lip cream’s in vitro water vapor transmission rate (84.1 g/(m² h)) indicated moderate occlusivity. The lip cream, but not placebo or control (water), reduced ultraviolet A (UVA)- and UVB-induced DNA damage, and tumor necrosis factor-α (EpiDerm^FT) and pros-taglandin E₂ release (EpiDerm^FT and EpiGingival™). The lip cream’s in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was 12.2 (lower confidence limit, 11.3) and SPF/UVA protection factor ratio was 0.9. The characterization of dry vs normal lips identified differences in moisturization. In the clinical trial, the lip cream significantly decreased TEWL (difference: −7.19 [95% CI: −11.41, −2.98]; P<0.01), increased corneometry (difference: 4.62 [95% CI: 1.05, 8.19]; P<0.05), and reduced visual dryness (difference: −1.48 [95% CI: 2.24, −0.71]; P<0.001) compared to untreated subjects. Significant benefits were also observed on expert photographic assessments of scaling (difference: −0.89 [95% CI: −1.75, −0.03]; P< 0.05), cupping (difference: −1.50 [95% CI: −2.30, −0.70]; P<0.001), and healthy appearance (difference: −1.44 [95% CI: −2.29, −0.58]; P<0.01); differences in overall healthy appearance were not significant (P=0.51). Subject-rated assessments indicated improvements in cracking, dryness, and flaking in the lip cream group but worsening in untreated subjects.

Conclusion

These studies indicate that this novel, daily-use lip cream protects against UV radiation, drying, and chapping, which are established environmental RHL triggers.

Human health in relation to exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation under changing stratospheric ozone and climate

The Montreal Protocol has limited increases in the UV-B (280-315 nm) radiation reaching the Earth's surface as a result of depletion of stratospheric ozone. Nevertheless, the incidence of skin cancers continues to increase in most light-skinned populations, probably due mainly to risky sun exposure behaviour. In locations with strong sun protection programs of long duration, incidence is now reducing in younger age groups. Changes in the epidemiology of UV-induced eye diseases are less clear, due to a lack of data. Exposure to UV radiation plays a role in the development of cataracts, pterygium and possibly age-related macular degeneration; these are major causes of visual impairment world-wide. Photodermatoses and phototoxic reactions to drugs are not uncommon; management of the latter includes recognition of the risks by the prescribing physician. Exposure to UV radiation has benefits for health through the production of vitamin D in the skin and modulation of immune function. The latter has benefits for skin diseases such as psoriasis and possibly for systemic autoimmune diseases such as multiple sclerosis. The health risks of sun exposure can be mitigated through appropriate sun protection, such as clothing with both good UV-blocking characteristics and adequate skin coverage, sunglasses, shade, and sunscreen. New sunscreen preparations provide protection against a broader spectrum of solar radiation, but it is not clear that this has benefits for health. Gaps in knowledge make it difficult to derive evidence-based sun protection advice that balances the risks and benefits of sun exposure.

When to apply sunscreen: a consensus statement for Australia and New Zealand

INTRODUCTION

Cancers of the skin are the most common cancers in humans, with Australia and New Zealand having the world's highest incidence. Primary prevention campaigns advise people to apply sunscreen to exposed body sites when outdoors. However, despite growing evidence that cumulative sub-erythemal exposures cause mutational damage, and trial data demonstrating benefit from daily sunscreen use, current policies do not consider the hazards of incidental (everyday) sun exposure. Thus, a Sunscreen Summit was convened to review the evidence and update the policies for people living in Australia and New Zealand.

RESULTS

After reviewing the benefits and risks of sunscreen application, the policy group concluded that people living in Australia and New Zealand should be advised to apply sunscreen to the face/head/neck and all parts of the body not covered by clothing on all days when the ultraviolet index is forecast to reach three or greater, irrespective of their anticipated activities. For planned outdoors activities, sunscreen should be used alongside other sun protection measures.

CONCLUSIONS

People living in Australia and New Zealand are now advised to apply sunscreen every day when the UV index is predicted to reach 3 or above. Implications for public health: Increased use of sunscreen as part of the daily routine to reduce incidental sun exposure will lead to decreased incidence of skin cancer in the future.

Formation of UV-induced DNA damage contributing to skin cancer development

UV-induced DNA damage plays a key role in the initiation phase of skin cancer. When left unrepaired or when damaged cells are not eliminated by apoptosis, DNA lesions express their mutagneic properties, leading to the activation of proto-oncogene or the inactivation of tumor suppression genes. The chemical nature and the amount of DNA damage strongly depend on the wavelength of the incident photons. The most energetic part of the solar spectrum at the Earth's surface (UVB, 280-320 nm) leads to the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs) and pyrimidine (6-4) pyrimidone photoproducts (64PPs). Less energetic but 20-times more intense UVA (320-400 nm) also induces the formation of CPDs together with a wide variety of oxidatively generated lesions such as single strand breaks and oxidized bases. Among those, 8-oxo-7,8-dihydroguanine (8-oxoGua) is the most frequent since it can be produced by several mechanisms. Data available on the respective yield of DNA photoproducts in cells and skin show that exposure to sunlight mostly induces pyrimidine dimers, which explains the mutational signature found in skin tumors, with lower amounts of 8-oxoGua and strand breaks. The present review aims at describing the basic photochemistry of DNA and discussing the quantitative formation of the different UV-induced DNA lesions reported in the literature. Additional information on mutagenesis, repair and photoprotection is briefly provided.

Photoprotection or photodamage: a direct observation of nonradiative dynamics from 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate sunscreen agent

Apart from being an analogue of the prototype for photoinduced intramolecular charge transfer (ICT), 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate (EHDMABA) is also one of the earliest patented and most commonly used sunscreen components. There is, however, little documented information about the photophysics and factors affecting the photophysics of this molecule. Such information is of importance for both the understanding of the ICT reaction and assessing the underlying process of photoprotection, especially in view of the "sunscreen controversy" that has arisen from the contrasting in vivo vs. in vitro photobiological results on this and related UV filters. We report herein a femtosecond broadband time-resolved fluorescence (fs-TRF), complemented by transient absorption (fs-TA) to allow a full probe of the excited state cascades for EHDMABA and two of its derivatives in solvents of varied properties. The results provide direct evidence for a nearly solvent independent inner sphere ICT reaction occurring on the sub-picosecond time scale, and an ensuing solvent dictated deactivation of the ICT state. The ICT state in the aprotic solvent acetonitrile decayed solely through the intrinsic intersystem crossing (ISC) to produce a potentially harmful triplet excited state. In the protic solvent, the solvation and formation of ICT-induced solute-solvent hydrogen (H)-bonding opened the originally inaccessible internal conversion (IC) channel of the ICT state, leading to the rapid reformation of the ground state molecule with a unitary efficiency in the aqueous solution. This H-bonding-mediated IC restrained or eliminated the intrinsic ISC, providing a mechanism at the molecular level for the benign dissipation of the electronic excitation. The precise rate of IC was observed to vary with the alkoxy substituent and its efficiency was affected by the H-bonding capacity of the solvent. The findings of this work demonstrate the pivotal role of the microenvironment and the direct participation of solvent molecules through H-bonding in drastically altering the nonradiative dynamics and promoting or inhibiting photostability and photoprotection. This may assist in developing next-generation UV filters and help in improving formulation design for the optimal efficacy of sunscreen products. The pronounced H-bonding-induced fluorescence quenching and variation in the fluorescence wavelength imply that these molecules may also serve as a sensitive fluorescence probe for the H-bonding properties of the microenvironment.

Roles of UVA radiation and DNA damage responses in melanoma pathogenesis

The growing incidence of melanoma is a serious public health issue that merits a thorough understanding of potential causative risk factors, which includes exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Though UVR has been classified as a complete carcinogen and has long been recognized for its ability to damage genomic DNA through both direct and indirect means, the precise mechanisms by which the UVA and UVB components of UVR contribute to the pathogenesis of melanoma have not been clearly defined. In this review, we therefore highlight recent studies that have addressed roles for UVA radiation in the generation of DNA damage and in modulating the subsequent cellular responses to DNA damage in melanocytes, which are the cell type that gives rise to melanoma. Recent research suggests that UVA not only contributes to the direct formation of DNA lesions but also impairs the removal of UV photoproducts from genomic DNA through oxidation and damage to DNA repair proteins. Moreover, the melanocyte microenvironment within the epidermis of the skin is also expected to impact melanomagenesis, and we therefore discuss several paracrine signaling pathways that have been shown to impact the DNA damage response in UV-irradiated melanocytes. Lastly, we examine how alterations to the immune microenvironment by UVA-associated DNA damage responses may contribute to melanoma development. Thus, there appear to be multiple avenues by which UVA may elevate the risk of melanoma. Protective strategies against excess exposure to UVA wavelengths of light therefore have the potential to decrease the incidence of melanoma. Environ. Mol. Mutagen. 59:438-460, 2018. © 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.

Fighting against Skin Aging: The Way from Bench to Bedside

As the most voluminous organ of the body that is exposed to the outer environment, the skin suffers from both intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors. Skin aging is characterized by features such as wrinkling, loss of elasticity, laxity, and rough-textured appearance. This aging process is accompanied with phenotypic changes in cutaneous cells as well as structural and functional changes in extracellular matrix components such as collagens and elastin. In this review, we summarize these changes in skin aging, research advances of the molecular mechanisms leading to these changes, and the treatment strategies aimed at preventing or reversing skin aging.

Environmental effects of ozone depletion, UV radiation and interactions with climate change: UNEP Environmental Effects Assessment Panel, update 2017

The Environmental Effects Assessment Panel (EEAP) is one of three Panels of experts that inform the Parties to the Montreal Protocol. The EEAP focuses on the effects of UV radiation on human health, terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems, air quality, and materials, as well as on the interactive effects of UV radiation and global climate change. When considering the effects of climate change, it has become clear that processes resulting in changes in stratospheric ozone are more complex than previously held. Because of the Montreal Protocol, there are now indications of the beginnings of a recovery of stratospheric ozone, although the time required to reach levels like those before the 1960s is still uncertain, particularly as the effects of stratospheric ozone on climate change and vice versa, are not yet fully understood. Some regions will likely receive enhanced levels of UV radiation, while other areas will likely experience a reduction in UV radiation as ozone- and climate-driven changes affect the amounts of UV radiation reaching the Earth's surface. Like the other Panels, the EEAP produces detailed Quadrennial Reports every four years; the most recent was published as a series of seven papers in 2015 (Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2015, 14, 1-184). In the years in between, the EEAP produces less detailed and shorter Update Reports of recent and relevant scientific findings. The most recent of these was for 2016 (Photochem. Photobiol. Sci., 2017, 16, 107-145). The present 2017 Update Report assesses some of the highlights and new insights about the interactive nature of the direct and indirect effects of UV radiation, atmospheric processes, and climate change. A full 2018 Quadrennial Assessment, will be made available in 2018/2019.

Review of the Global Solar UV Index 2015 Workshop Report

The Global Solar UV Index was developed as an easy-to-understand measure of the amount of biologically-effective ambient solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) at different locations on the earth's surface. Over the past few years, questions have been raised about the global applicability of the UV Index, about the evidence base for exposure risk thresholds and related protective measures, and about whether the overall impact of the UV Index could be improved with modifications. An international workshop was organized by several organizations, including the World Health Organization, to assess if current evidence was sufficiently strong to modify the UV Index and to discuss different ways it might be improved in order to influence sun-protective behavior. While some animal research suggests there may be no threshold effect, the relative importance of sub-erythemal doses of sunlight in causing skin cancer in humans remains unknown. Evidence suggests that regular use of sunscreen can prevent skin cancer and that sunglasses are an effective method of protecting the eyes from solar UVR. The UV Index as a risk communication tool continues to be useful for raising awareness and to support sun-protection behavior. Although there was agreement that guidance on the use of the UV Index could be improved, the workshop participants identified that strong health outcome-based human evidence would be needed as the basis for a revision. For the UV Index to be relevant in as many countries as possible, it should continue to be adapted to suit local conditions.

The use of suction blisters to measure sunscreen protection against UVR-induced DNA damage

The formation of DNA photoproducts caused by solar UVR exposure needs to be investigated in-vivo and in particular in order to assess sunscreens' level of protection against solar genotoxicity. The study's purposes were: i) to evaluate if the roof of suction blisters is an appropriate sampling method for measuring photoproducts, and ii) to measure in-vivo sunscreen protection against cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers. Skin areas on the interior forearms of eight healthy volunteers were exposed in-vivo to 2 MED of simulated solar radiation (SSR) and to 15 MED on a sunscreen protected area. After irradiation, six suction blisters were induced and the blister roofs were collected. Analysis of SSR-induced CPDs was performed by two independent methods: a chromatography coupled to mass spectroscopy (HPLC-MS/MS) approach and a 3D-imaging of CPD immunostaining by multiphoton microscopy on floating epidermal sheets. HPLC-MS/MS analyses showed that SSR-unexposed skin presented no CPD dimers, whereas 2 MED SSR-exposed skin showed a significant number of TT-CPD. The sunscreen covered skin exposed to 15 MED appeared highly protected from DNA damage, as the amount of CPD-dimers remained below the detection limit. The multiphoton-immunostaining analysis consistently showed that no CPD staining was observed on the non-SSR-exposed skin. A significant increase of CPD staining intensity and number of CPD-positive cells were observed on the 2 MED SSR-exposed skin. Sunscreen protected skin presented a very low staining intensity and the number of CPD-positive cells remained very close to non-SSR-exposed skin. This study showed that suction blister samples are very appropriate for measuring CPD dimers in-vivo, and that sunscreens provide high protection against UVR-induced DNA damage.

A new in vitro assay to test UVR protection of dermal extracellular matrix components by a flat spectrum sunscreen

The efficacy of topical sunscreens is currently assessed by crude, costly and time consuming in vivo assays. We have previously demonstrated that components of the dermal extracellular matrix (ECM), rich in UV-absorbing amino acids, are susceptible to damage by solar simulated radiation (SSR) in vitro. Here we developed an in vitro method to test the ability of sunscreens to protect fibrillin-rich microfibrils (FRM) and fibronectin, key components of the dermal ECM from UV-induced damage. Solutions of FRM or fibronectin were irradiated without protection, in the presence of a vehicle or a commercially-available flat-spectrum sunscreen. The effect of SSR on molecular structure was determined by atomic force microscopy (FRM) and SDS-PAGE (fibronectin). Following irradiation, FRM periodicity became bi-modally distributed (peaks: 40nm & 59nm) compared to the unimodal distribution in unexposed controls (peak: 50nm). Irradiation in the presence of flat-spectrum sunscreen protected against this change, maintaining the unimodal distribution. SSR induced significant aggregation of fibronectin (p=0.005), which was abrogated by sunscreen. These results demonstrate that this in vitro assay system is sufficiently sensitive to act as an initial/additional screen of sunscreen efficacy. We conclude that sunscreen can reduce UV-mediated damage of key dermal ECM in vitro and thereby prevent remodelling associated with photoageing.