Skin ageing: natural weapons and strategies

Radiofrequency Treatment Attenuates Age-Related Changes in Dermal-Epidermal Junctions of Animal Skin

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) is essential for maintaining skin structural integrity and regulating cell survival and proliferation. Thus, DEJ rejuvenation is key for skin revitalization, particularly in age-related DEJ deterioration. Radiofrequency (RF) treatment, known for its ability to enhance collagen fiber production through thermal mechanisms and increase heat shock protein (HSP) expression, has emerged as a promising method for skin rejuvenation. Additionally, RF activates Piezo1, an ion channel implicated in macrophage polarization toward an M2 phenotype and enhanced TGF-β production. This study investigated the impact of RF treatment on HSP47 and HSP90 expression, known stimulators of DEJ protein expression. Furthermore, using in vitro and aged animal skin models, we assessed whether RF-induced Piezo1 activation and the subsequent M2 polarization could counter age-related DEJ changes. The RF treatment of H2O2-induced senescent keratinocytes upregulated the expression of HSP47, HSP90, TGF-β, and DEJ proteins, including collagen XVII. Similarly, the RF treatment of senescent macrophages increased Piezo1 and CD206 (M2 marker) expression. Conditioned media from RF-treated senescent macrophages enhanced the expression of TGF-β and DEJ proteins, such as nidogen and collagen IV, in senescent fibroblasts. In aged animal skin, RF treatment increased the expression of HSP47, HSP90, Piezo1, markers associated with M2 polarization, IL-10, and TGF-β. Additionally, RF treatment enhanced DEJ protein expression. Moreover, RF reduced lamina densa replication, disrupted lesions, promoted hemidesmosome formation, and increased epidermal thickness. Overall, RF treatment effectively enhanced DEJ protein expression and mitigated age-related DEJ structural changes by increasing HSP levels and activating Piezo1.

Valorization of Citrus peels: GC/MS-based metabolites profiling, multivariate analysis, and antiaging potential

Aging and agro-waste are major challenges. Natural ingredients are preferred in skincare. This study intended to isolate the essential oils (EO) from the leftover peels obtained from three commonly edible Citrus species fruit peels, namely Citrus paradisi (grapefruit), Citrus sinensis (sweet orange), and Citrus deliciosa (mandarin). Gas chromatography/mass spectrometry analysis identified volatile constituents in EO and headspace aroma. Multivariate analysis distinguished between the three species. The antiaging effects of Citrus EO were assessed in vitro and in silico, studying volatile interactions with target enzymes. C. sinensis peels had the highest oil yield, rich in monoterpenes. C. paradisi and C. deliciosa contained sesquiterpenes. Limonene dominated the hydrodistilled EO: 94.50% in C. paradisi, 96.80% in C. sinensis, and 80.66% in C. deliciosa. Unsupervised multivariate analysis of Citrus species revealed that  d-limonene, γ-terpinene, and β-pinene are the key phytochemical markers contributing to their diverse chemical composition. C. paradisi exhibited the highest enzyme inhibitory activity, with IC50 values of 12.82, 27.58, and 18.16 µg/mL for tyrosinase, elastase, and collagenase, respectively. In silico studies showed that the volatiles can inhibit the tested antiaging enzymes. According to these findings, the investigated agro-waste might slow aging in skin care.

Study on the Skincare Effects of Red Rice Fermented by Aspergillus oryzae In Vitro

Red rice, a variety of pigmented grain, serves dual purposes as both a food and medicinal resource. In recent years, we have witnessed an increasing interest in the dermatological benefits of fermented rice extracts, particularly their whitening and hydrating effects. However, data on the skincare advantages derived from fermenting red rice with Aspergillus oryzae remain sparse. This study utilized red rice as a substrate for fermentation by Aspergillus oryzae, producing a substance known as red rice Aspergillus oryzae fermentation (RRFA). We conducted a preliminary analysis of RRFA's composition followed by an evaluation of its skincare potential through various in vitro tests. Our objective was to develop a safe and highly effective skincare component for potential cosmetic applications. RRFA's constituents were assessed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), Kjeldahl nitrogen determination, the phenol-sulfuric acid method, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). We employed human dermal fibroblasts (FB) to assess RRFA's anti-aging and antioxidative properties, immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and 3D epidermal models to examine its moisturizing and reparative capabilities, and human primary melanocytes (MCs) to study its effects on skin lightening. Our findings revealed that RRFA encompasses several bioactive compounds beneficial for skin health. RRFA can significantly promote the proliferation of FB cells. And it markedly enhances the mRNA expression of ECM-related anti-aging genes and reduces reactive oxygen species production. Furthermore, RRFA significantly boosts the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) mRNA, alongside elevating moisture levels in a 3D epidermal model. Increases were also observed in the mRNA expression of Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Involucrin (IVL), and Zonula Occludens-1 (ZO-1) in keratinocytes. Additionally, RRFA demonstrated an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. Collectively, RRFA contains diverse ingredients which are beneficial for skin health and showcases multifaceted skincare effects in terms of anti-aging, antioxidant, moisturizing, repairing, and whitening capabilities in vitro, highlighting its potential for future cosmetic applications.

Antiaging Strategies and Remedies: A Landscape of Research Progress and Promise

Aging is typified by a gradual loss of physiological fitness and accumulation of cellular damage, leading to deteriorated functions and enhanced vulnerability to diseases. Antiaging research has a long history throughout civilization, with many efforts put forth to understand and prevent the effects of aging. Multiple strategies aiming to promote healthy aging and extend the lifespan have been developed including lifestyle adjustments, medical treatments, and social programs. A multitude of antiaging medicines and remedies have also been explored. Here, we use data from the CAS Content Collection to analyze the publication landscape of recent research related to antiaging strategies and treatments. We review the recent advances and delineate trends in research headway of antiaging knowledge and practice across time, geography, and development pipelines. We further assess the state-of-the-art antiaging approaches and explore their correlations with age-related diseases. The landscape of antiaging drugs has been outlined and explored. Well-recognized and novel, currently evaluated antiaging agents have also been summarized. Finally, we review clinical applications of antiaging products with their development pipelines. The objective of this review is to summarize current knowledge on preventive strategies and treatment remedies in the field of aging, to outline challenges and evaluate growth opportunities, in order to further efforts to solve the problems that remain.

Assessment of in vitro anti-skin aging activities of Phyllanthus indofischeri Bennet extracts for dermatological and aesthetic applications

Giant Indian Gooseberry (GIG) or Phyllanthus indofischeri Bennet are commercially cultivated and commonly used herbs in Traditional medicine, especially in Thailand. The aim of this study was to assess the potential of the GIG extracts in anti-aging activities to be a dermatological application. The juice, meat residues, and seeds of GIG collected from Sra Kaeo Province, Thailand, were extracted by the Boiling method (B) and the Maceration process (M) by using 95% ethanol as a solvent. The GIG extracts gave the total phenolic, total flavonoid contents and quercetin contents, as well as exhibited anti-oxidative activities. The GIG-R-B extract inhibited tyrosinase activity and had the highest anti-melanogenesis activity on B16F10 cells at 31.63 ± 0.70%. The GIG-S-B, GIG-S-M, and GIG-R-M extracts demonstrated the highest collagen biosynthesis, which was comparable to vitamin C (p < 0.05), whereas the GIG-R-B extracts gave the highest stimulation of anti-aging genes (SIRT1 and FOXO1). All extracts at the concentration of 0.1 mg/mL showed no cytotoxicity on human skin fibroblasts. Therefore, the GIG-S-B extract was discovered to be a promising natural anti-aging agent for dermatological health and aesthetic applications that can be further developed in cosmetic, functional food and food supplement industries.

Poria cocos Lanostane Triterpenoids Extract Promotes Collagen and Hyaluronic Acid Production in D-Galactose-Induced Aging Rats

The global aging population is expanding at an increasingly rapid pace, with approximately one-fourth of the world's population expected to be composed of elderly individuals by 2050. Aging skin is one of the major characteristics expressed in the elderly. The study comprehensively utilizes both cell and animal experiments to confirm the skin anti-aging effects of Poria cocos (P. cocos), which is one of the most important traditional Chinese medicines classified as tonic Chinese medicine, commonly used to treat physical weakness and aging-associated diseases. We demonstrate in this study that P. cocos lanostane triterpenoids extract (Lipucan®) ameliorates aging skin and promotes collagen accumulation and hyaluronic acid production in galactose-induced aging rats. Purified lanostane triterpenoids were initially identified as active components in P. cocos, which significantly increased collagen and hyaluronic acid levels in cultured human skin cells.

Enhanced Natural Strength: Lamiaceae Essential Oils and Nanotechnology in In Vitro and In Vivo Medical Research

The Lamiaceae is one of the most important families in the production of essential oils known to have a wide spectrum of biological activity. Recent research has highlighted the dermatological capabilities of various Lamiaceae essential oils, which appear to offer potential in free radical scavenging and anti-inflammatory activity. Some have also been extensively studied for their tissue remodeling and wound-healing, anti-aging, anti-melanogenic, and anti-cancer properties. Certain Lamiaceae essential oils are promising as novel therapeutic alternatives for skin disorders. This potential has seen substantial efforts dedicated to the development of modern formulations based on nanotechnology, enabling the topical application of various Lamiaceae essential oils. This review provides a comprehensive summary of the utilization of various essential oils from the Lamiaceae family over the past decade. It offers an overview of the current state of knowledge concerning the use of these oils as antioxidants, anti-inflammatory agents, wound-healers, anti-aging agents, anti-melanogenic agents, and anticancer agents, both alone and in combination with nanoparticles. Additionally, the review explores their potential applicability in patents regarding skin diseases.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Thymus satureioides Coss.: Mineral Composition, Nutritional Value, Phytochemical Profiling, and Dermatological Properties

Zaitra, Thymus satureioides, is an aromatic plant with a long history of use in traditional medicine. In this study, we assessed the mineral composition, nutritional value, phytocontents, and dermatological properties of the aerial parts of T. satureioides. The plant contained high contents of calcium and iron, moderate levels of magnesium, manganese, and zinc, and low contents of total nitrogen, total phosphorus, total potassium, and copper. It is rich in several amino acids, including asparagine, 4-hydroxyproline, isoleucine, and leucine, and the essential amino acids account for 60.8%. The extract contains considerable amounts of polyphenols and flavonoids (TPC = 118.17 mg GAE/g extract and TFC = 32.32 mg quercetin/g extract). It also comprises 46 secondary metabolites, identified through LC-MS/MS analysis, belonging to phenolic acids, chalcones, and flavonoids. The extract elicited pronounced antioxidant activities, inhibited the growth of P. aeruginosa (MIC = 50 mg/mL), and reduced biofilm formation by up to 35.13% using the ¼ sub-MIC of 12.5 mg/mL. Moreover, bacterial extracellular proteins and exopolysaccharides were diminished by 46.15% and 69.04%, respectively. Likewise, the swimming of the bacterium was impaired (56.94% decrease) in the presence of the extract. In silico, skin permeability and sensitization effects revealed that out of the 46 identified compounds, 33 were predicted to be exempt from any skin sensitivity risk (Human Sensitizer Score ≤ 0.5), while extensive skin permeabilities were observed (Log K_p = -3.35--11.98 cm/s). This study provides scientific evidence about the pronounced activities of T. satureioides, supports its traditional uses, and promotes its utilization in the development of new drugs, food supplements, and dermatological agents.

Spontaneous Officinal Plants in the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park: Tradition, Protection, Enhancement, and Recovery

The aim of this study was to deepen our knowledge on the heritage and traditional uses of some medicinal plants of the Cilento, Vallo di Diano and Alburni National Park (Salerno province) and to evaluate their productive potential, in order to increase possible uses to recover and enhance the territory. Biometric surveys and biomass evaluation were carried out. Two types of aqueous extract were prepared using air-dried samples of six harvested species and tested for anti-germination activity on Lepidium sativum L. Hydrolates were recovered via steam distillation from aromatic species and the chemical-physical characteristics were determined. Historical evidence of industrial activity was collected in the territory of Sanza on Monte Cervati, where lavender essential oil has been distilled in the past century, and characterization of the essential oil components was carried out. The ethnobotanical uses detected mainly concerned traditional medicine and nutritional, ritual, or religious uses. The experimental results highlight that spontaneous medicinal plants could become potential sources of local economic development, with uses not only in the phytotherapeutic sector, but also in others, such as food and agriculture for weed control. Moreover, the evidence derived from industrial archeology could represent a further driving force for the enhancement of the territory's resources.

In Vitro and In Silico Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Ten Essential Oils from Aromatic Medicinal Plants from the Mascarene Islands

In this study, 10 essential oils (EOs), from nine plants (Cinnamomum camphora, Curcuma longa, Citrus aurantium, Morinda citrifolia, Petroselinum crispum, Plectranthus amboinicus, Pittosporum senacia, Syzygium coriaceum, and Syzygium samarangense) were assessed for their antimicrobial, antiaging and antiproliferative properties. While only S. coriaceum, P. amboinicus (MIC: 0.50 mg/mL) and M. citrifolia (MIC: 2 mg/mL) EOs showed activity against Cutibacterium acnes, all EOs except S. samarangense EO demonstrated activity against Mycobacterium smegmatis (MIC: 0.125-0.50 mg/mL). The EOs were either fungistatic or fungicidal against one or both tested Candida species with minimum inhibitory/fungicidal concentrations of 0.016-32 mg/mL. The EOs also inhibited one or both key enzymes involved in skin aging, elastase and collagenase (IC₅₀: 89.22-459.2 µg/mL; 0.17-0.18 mg/mL, respectively). Turmerone, previously identified in the C. longa EO, showed the highest binding affinity with the enzymes (binding energy: -5.11 and -6.64 kcal/mol). Only C. aurantium leaf, C. longa, P. amboinicus, P. senacia, S. coriaceum, and S. samarangense EOs were cytotoxic to the human malignant melanoma cells, UCT-MEL1 (IC₅₀: 88.91-277.25 µg/mL). All the EOs, except M. citrifolia EO, were also cytotoxic to the human keratinocytes non-tumorigenic cells, HaCat (IC₅₀: 33.73-250.90 µg/mL). Altogether, some interesting therapeutic properties of the EOs of pharmacological/cosmeceutical interests were observed, which warrants further investigations.

Anti-Aging, Anti-Acne, and Cytotoxic Activities of Houttuynia cordata Extracts and Phytochemicals Analysis by LC-MS/MS

Although many biological properties of Houttuynia cordata have been found, its anti-aging and anti-acne effects have not yet been investigated. This study was aimed to evaluate the in vitro anti-aging and anti-acne activities of H. cordata extracts and their cytotoxic activities and phytochemicals analyzed with liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Dried aerial parts of H. cordata were given different extractions. The aqueous and ethanolic extracts obtained were named HCA and HCE, respectively, and used to screen total phenolic and flavonoid contents. In vitro anti-aging, skin-related antimicrobial, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), in vitro cytotoxic, and LC-MS/MS analyses were performed. The total phenolic contents of the HCA and HCE were 5.11 ± 0.25 and 27.02 ± 1.07 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g dry extract while their total flavonoid contents were 104.94 ± 5.16 and 571.86 ± 2.86 mg quercetin equivalent (QE)/g dry extract, respectively. The HCA and HCE inhibited the activities of collagenase (28.33–46.00%), elastase (30.00–34.33%), and hyaluronidase (93.87–98.72%). The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) of the HCA against Cutibacterium acnes DMST14916 were 5.77 and 5.77 mg/mL while those of the HCE were 2.47 and 2.47 mg/mL, respectively. Cell collapses of C. acnes after treatment with the extracts were observed with SEM. The HCE was not toxic to macrophages, keratinocytes, and fibroblasts up to 400 mg/mL. The HCA showed toxicity against macrophages at 62.5 mg/mL and both skin cells at 250 mg/mL. The main phytochemicals in the extracts were identified with LC-MS/MS. Phenolic compounds, flavonoids, and flavonoid derivatives in H. cordata extracts could be major phytochemicals to possess a broad spectrum of biological activities including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-aging activities. The findings from this study showed that the HCE has potential anti-aging and anti-acne properties while having non-cytotoxic activities on the immune and skin cells. These results indicate that the extract is probably advantageous in the development of skincare cosmeceutics and beauty treatments.

2-O-β-d-Glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde Isolated from Morus alba (Mulberry) Fruits Suppresses Damage by Regulating Oxidative and Inflammatory Responses in TNF-α-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Human skin is composed of three layers, of which the dermis is composed of an extracellular matrix (ECM) comprising collagen, elastin, and other proteins. These proteins are reduced due to skin aging caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Among various internal and external factors related to aging, ultraviolet (UV) radiation is the main cause of photoaging of the skin. UV radiation stimulates DNA damage, reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, and pro-inflammatory cytokine production such as tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), and promotes ECM degradation. Stimulation with ROS and TNF-α upregulates mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB), and activator protein 1 (AP-1) transcription factors that induce the expression of the collagenase matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1). Moreover, TNF-α induces intracellular ROS production and several molecular pathways. Skin aging progresses through various processes and can be prevented through ROS generation and TNF-α inhibition. In our previous study, 2-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde (GDHBA) was isolated from the Morus alba (mulberry) fruits and its inhibitory effect on MMP-1 secretion was revealed. In this study, we focused on the effect of GDHBA on TNF-α-induced human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). GDHBA (50 μM) inhibited ROS generation (18.8%) and decreased NO (58.4%) and PGE₂ levels (53.8%), significantly. Moreover, it decreased MMP-1 secretion (55.3%) and increased pro-collagen type I secretion (207.7%). GDHBA (50 μM) decreased the expression of different MAPKs as per western blotting; p-38: 35.9%; ERK: 47.9%; JNK: 49.5%; c-Jun: 32.1%; NF-κB: 55.9%; and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2): 31%. This study elucidated a novel role of GDHBA in protecting against skin inflammation and damage through external stimuli, such as UV radiation.

Prospective Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Study of Oral Pomegranate Extract on Skin Wrinkles, Biophysical Features, and the Gut-Skin Axis

(1) Background: The pomegranate fruit (Punica granatum L.) has been widely used in traditional medicine and has increasingly gained popularity among consumers in order to manage different facets of health. The objective of this study was to evaluate the effects of the fruit extract of P. granatum L. on different parameters of skin health. (2) Methods: A prospective, double-blind placebo-controlled study was conducted on both healthy males and females aged 25−55 years. Subjects were supplemented with a standardized punicalagin enriched oral pomegranate extract [Pomella® (Verdure Science, Noblesville, IN, USA), PE group] or a placebo (control group) daily for four weeks. Changes in wrinkle severity, facial biophysical properties, skin microbiome, and the gut microbiome were assessed. (3) Results: The PE group had significant reductions in wrinkle severity (p < 0.01) and a decreasing trend in the forehead sebum excretion rate (p = 0.14). The participants in the PE group with a higher relative abundance of Eggerthellaceae in the gut had a decrease in their facial TEWL (p < 0.05) and wrinkle severity (p = 0.058). PE supplementation led to an increase in the Staphylococcus epidermidis species and the Bacillus genus on the skin. (4) Conclusions: Overall, the study demonstrated improvements in several biophysical properties, wrinkles, and shifts in the skin microbiome with oral PE supplementation in healthy subjects.

In silico study of natural antioxidants

Antioxidants are the body's defense system against the damage of reactive oxygen species, which are usually produced in the body through various physiological processes. There are various sources of these antioxidants such as endogenous antioxidants in the body and exogenous food sources. This chapter provides important information on methods used to investigate antioxidant activity and sources of plant antioxidants. Over the past two decades, numerous studies have demonstrated the importance of in silico research in the development of novel natural and synthesized antioxidants. In silico methods such as quantitative structure-activity relationships (QSAR), pharmacophore, docking, and virtual screenings are play critical roles in designing effective antioxidants that may be synthesized and tested later. This chapter introduces the available in silico approaches for different classes of antioxidants. Many successful applications of in silico methods in the development and design of novel antioxidants are thoroughly discussed. The QSAR, pharmacophore, molecular docking techniques, and virtual screenings process summarized here would help readers to find out the proper mechanism for the interaction between the free radicals and antioxidant compounds. Furthermore, this chapter focuses on introducing new QSAR models in combination with other in silico methods to predict antioxidants activity and design more active antioxidants. In silico studies are essential to explore largely unknown plant tissue, food sources for antioxidant synthesis, as well as saving time and money in such studies.

Mushroom β-Glucan Recovered from Antler-Type Fruiting Body of Ganoderma lucidum by Enzymatic Process and Its Potential Biological Activities for Cosmeceutical Applications

Mushrooms are incredibly valuable macro fungi that are an important and integral part of the ecosystem. In addition to being used as cuisine, mushrooms have been used for medicinal purposes for many centuries. This research applied a process for recovering β-glucan (BG) from the antler-type fruiting body of Ganoderma lucidum as well as tested the biological activities related to cosmeceutical applications. The characterization of complex structure was performed by fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and nuclear magnetic resonance (MNR) spectroscopies. The obtained extract contained 40.57% BG and 7.47% protein, with the detectable bioactivities of anti-tyrosinase and antioxidation. Consequently, it showed the activity that can be used to whiten the skin by reducing or inhibiting the process of skin pigmentation. The BG also showed moderate activities of anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, and anti-hyaluronidase. The test by the HET-CAM confirmed no skin irritation of the complex extract. Based on human peripheral blood mononuclear cell (PBMC) test, the BG had no significant inhibiting effect on cell viability. In addition, the obtained BG had functional properties higher than commercially available BG, especially oil-binding capacity. These findings provided new insights into the potential application of G. lucidum BG as a polymeric material in the cosmeceutical industries.

Oddioside A, a New Phenolic Glycoside Isolated from the Fruits of Morus alba (Mulberry), Protects TNF-α-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblast Damage

In our preliminary study, a hot water extract from the fruits of Morus alba (mulberry) inhibited the secretion of metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) against tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α)-stimulated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs), and therefore we researched its active compounds. In the present study, a new phenolic glycoside (oddioside A, 1) and 21 known compounds (2−22) were isolated from the hot water extract from the fruits of M. alba by repeated chromatography. The chemical structure of the new compound 1 was elucidated by its spectroscopic data (1D− and 2D−NMR and HRMS) measurement and by acidic hydrolysis. The presence of sargentodoside E (2), eugenyl glucoside (6), 2-O-β-d-glucopyranosyl-4,6-dihydroxybenzaldehyde (7), 7S,8R-erythro-7,9,9’-trihydroxy-3,3’-dimethoxy-8-O-4’-neolignan-4-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (11), pinoresinol-4-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (12), taxifolin-7-O-β-d-glucopyranoside (20), and pinellic acid (21) were reported from M. alba for the first time in this study. The new compound oddioside A (1) suppressed the secretion of MMP-1 and increased collagen in TNF-α-stimulated HDFs. In addition, the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) was inhibited by oddioside A. In conclusion, the extract from fruits of M. alba and its constituent oddioside A may be a potential agent to prevent inflammation-related skin aging and other skin disorders.

In Vitro Biological Activity and In Vivo Human Study of Porcine-Placenta-Extract-Loaded Nanovesicle Formulations for Skin and Hair Rejuvenation

Porcine placenta extract (PPE) contains many water-soluble macromolecular compounds, such as proteins and growth factors, which have limited transportation through the skin. This study aimed to assess the effect of porcine-placenta-extract (PPE)-loaded nano-transdermal systems for skin repair and hair growth promotion. The potentials of the nanoformulation for cytotoxicity, cell proliferation, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) reduction, lipoxygenase inhibition, intracellular inflammatory cytokine reduction, and cell aggregation were evaluated. PPE-entrapped niosome nanovesicles were produced by thin-film hydration and probe-sonication methods, followed by incorporation in a skin serum formulation. The physicochemical properties of the formulation were examined, and the efficacy of the serum formulation was elucidated in humans. The results showed that PPE had no toxicity and was able to induce cell growth and cell aggregation. In addition, PPE significantly decreased intracellular ROS, inhibited lipoxygenase activity, and reduced the production of intracellular tumor necrosis factor-α. In the in vivo human study, the PPE nanovesicles-loaded serum could improve skin properties by increasing skin hydration. Moreover, it was capable of promoting hair growth by increasing hair elongation and melanin index after application for one month. Consequently, the PPE nanovesicles-loaded serum was effective for skin anti-aging and hair rejuvenation.

High-Intensity Focused Ultrasound Induces Adipogenesis via Control of Cilia in Adipose-Derived Stem Cells in Subcutaneous Adipose Tissue

During skin aging, the volume of subcutaneous adipose tissue (sWAT) and the adipogenesis potential of adipose-derived stem cells (ASCs) decrease. It is known that the shortening of cilia length by pro-inflammatory cytokines is related to the decreased adipogenic differentiation of ASCs via increase in Wnt5a/β-catenin. High-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) is known to upregulate heat shock proteins (HSP), which decrease levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines. In this study, we evaluated whether HIFU modulates the cilia of ASCs by upregulating HSP70 and decreasing inflammatory cytokines. HIFU was applied at 0.2 J to rat skin, which was harvested at 1, 3, 7, and 28 days. All results for HIFU-applied animals were compared with control animals that were not treated. HIFU increased expression of HSP70 and decreased expression of NF-κB, IL-6, and TNF-α in sWAT. HIFU decreased the expression of cilia disassembly-related factors (AurA and HDAC9) in ASCs. Furthermore, HIFU increased the expression of cilia assembly-related factors (KIF3A and IFT88), decreased that of WNT5A/β-catenin, and increased that of the adipogenesis markers PPARγ and CEBPα in sWAT. HIFU increased the number of adipocytes in the sWAT and the thickness of sWAT. In conclusion, HIFU could selectively increase sWAT levels by modulating the cilia of ASCs and be used for skin rejuvenation.

Eriodictyol Attenuates H2O2-Induced Oxidative Damage in Human Dermal Fibroblasts through Enhanced Capacity of Antioxidant Machinery

Oxidative stress in dermal fibroblasts is strongly correlated with the aging process of the skin. The application of natural compounds that can increase the ability of dermal fibroblasts to counteract oxidative stress is a promising approach to promote skin health and beauty. Eriodictyol is a flavonoid that exerts several pharmacological actions through its antioxidant properties. However, its protective effects on dermal fibroblasts have not yet been investigated. In this study, we investigated whether eriodictyol protects human dermal fibroblasts (BJ fibroblasts) from the harmful effects of hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). Eriodictyol pretreatment significantly prevented necrotic cell death caused by H₂O₂ exposure. In addition, the level of 2′,7′-dichloro-dihydro-fluorescein oxidation was decreased, and that of glutathione was maintained, indicating that the beneficial effects of eriodictyol against H₂O₂ were closely associated with oxidative-stress attenuation. Eriodictyol mediates its antioxidant effects on dermal fibroblasts against H₂O₂ through (i) the direct neutralization of reactive oxygen species; (ii) the enhancement of the activities of H₂O₂-detoxifying enzymes, including catalase and glutathione peroxidase; and (iii) the induction of the expressions of catalase and glutathione peroxidase 1 via the activation of the Nrf2 signaling system. These results support the potential application of eriodictyol as an ingredient in skincare products for cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical purposes.

In vitro antiaging activity of polyphenol rich Polyalthia longifolia (Annonaceae) leaf extract in Saccharomyces cerevisiae BY611 yeast cells

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Polyalthia longifolia var. angustifolia Thw. (Annonaceae) is commonly used in traditional medicine as a tonic for rejuvenation and exhibiting good antioxidant activities.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To evaluate P. longifolia methanolic leaf extract (PLME) antiaging activity at 1 mg/mL in Saccharomyces cerevisiae BY611 yeast.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The antiaging effect of PLME was studied via replicative lifespan assay, antioxidative stress assays, reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination, reduced glutathione (GSH) determination, superoxide dismutase (SOD) and Sirtuin 1 (SIRT1) genes regulation studies and SOD and SIRT1 proteins activities.

RESULTS

The PLME treatment increased the growth and prolonged the lifespan of the yeast significantly (p < 0.05) compared to the untreated yeast group. Besides, the PLME also protected the yeast from oxidative stress induced by 4-mM-H₂O₂ via decreasing (p < 0.05) the ROS from 143.207 to 127.223. The antioxidative action of PLME was proved by spot assay. Phloxine B staining was further confirmed the PLME antioxidative action of PLME, where more whitish-pink live yeast cells were observed. In addition, the PLME also enhanced GSH content significantly (p < 0.05) in yeast treated with PLME from 16.81 to 25.31 μmol. Furthermore, PLME increased the SOD and SIRT1 genes expression significantly (p < 0.05) with ΔCt values of 1.11 and 1.15, respectively. The significantly (p < 0.05) elevated SOD and SIRT1 protein activities were recorded as 51.54 U/mg Prot and 1716 ng/mL, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

PLME exhibited good antiaging activities in S. cerevisiae, by modulating oxidative stress, enhancing GSH content, and increasing SOD and SIRT1 genes expression.

A Comprehensive Review on the Therapeutic Potential of Curcuma longa Linn. in Relation to its Major Active Constituent Curcumin

Curcuma longa Linn. (C. longa), popularly known as turmeric, belongs to the Zingiberaceae family and has a long historical background of having healing properties against many diseases. In Unani and Ayurveda medicine, C. longa has been used for liver obstruction and jaundice, and has been applied externally for ulcers and inflammation. Additionally, it is employed in several other ailments such as cough, cold, dental issues, indigestion, skin infections, blood purification, asthma, piles, bronchitis, tumor, wounds, and hepatic disorders, and is used as an antiseptic. Curcumin, a major constituent of C. longa, is well known for its therapeutic potential in numerous disorders. However, there is a lack of literature on the therapeutic potential of C. longa in contrast to curcumin. Hence, the present review aimed to provide in-depth information by highlighting knowledge gaps in traditional and scientific evidence about C. longa in relation to curcumin. The relationship to one another in terms of biological action includes their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, anticancer, hepatoprotective, cardioprotective, immunomodulatory, antifertility, antimicrobial, antiallergic, antidermatophytic, and antidepressant properties. Furthermore, in-depth discussion of C. longa on its taxonomic categorization, traditional uses, botanical description, phytochemical ingredients, pharmacology, toxicity, and safety aspects in relation to its major compound curcumin is needed to explore the trends and perspectives for future research. Considering all of the promising evidence to date, there is still a lack of supportive evidence especially from clinical trials on the adjunct use of C. longa and curcumin. This prompts further preclinical and clinical investigations on curcumin.

Overcoming Skin Damage from Pollution via Novel Skincare Strategies

Urban pollution is one of the main problems encountered worldwide with major impact on public health as well as the environment. Health impact of urban pollution is not limited to respiratory conditions but also encompasses major skin problems including irritation, skin ageing, and skin cancer. Toxic gases and particulate matter are the main pollutants and exhibit extensive local variability. The aforementioned pollutants are small particles that attach to the skin or penetrate into it, enhancing free radicals' production inside the inner skin layers. This urges the need to propose cosmetic products that help prevent and/or minimise pollutants' effects on the skin whether irritation, ageing and cancer. Furthermore, intrinsic and extrinsic factors contributed to skin irritation and ageing. Intrinsic factors are within skin factors and include genetic and physiological characteristics of individuals. Moreover, extrinsic factors comprise environmental factors such as humidity, temperature, and smoke. Subsequently active ingredients with antipollutant properties addressed the intrinsic and extrinsic factors by four mechanisms being: free radical neutralisation, film-forming ability, skin barrier enhancement and fortification. Such ingredients include vitamin A derivatives, vitamin C derivatives, carbohydrates, and plant-based products. Yet, very limited studies have evaluated the effectiveness of the aforementioned active ingredients against irritation or ageing and this should be considered in future work.

Phytocosmetic Emulsion Containing Extract of Morus nigra L. (Moraceae): Development, Stability Study, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities

Morus nigra L. is a species popularly known in the Northeast of Brazil as “amora miúra”. This species is a source of flavonoids with antioxidant activity. Antioxidants play an important role in the preservation of cosmetic formulations, and they neutralize free radicals. The objective of this study was to develop a topical emulsion containing leaf extract of Morus nigra L., as well as to evaluate the stability, antioxidant and antibacterial activities of the formulations. A crude hydroalcoholic (70%) extract of M. nigra leaves (MnCE) was submitted to high-performance liquid chromatography with diode-array detection (HPLC–DAD) analysis and incorporated into an anionic base emulsion. Antioxidant activity was evaluated according to the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) method, and the stability of the formulation was assessed for 90 days, submitting the emulsion to storage at 4, 20, and 37 °C. Microdilution techniques evaluated the antibacterial activity and a challenge test assessed the microbiological stability. Analysis by HPLC–DAD identified the flavonoids rutin and isoquercetin in the M. nigra extract. The emulsion and plant extract presented antioxidant activity, and the stability of the emulsion was preserved in terms of pH value and viscosity—which did not show significant changes, except for the spreadability, which was affected by the temperature. The antioxidant activity did not change significantly, except for the sample under 4 °C, which showed a considerable decrease in activity. The crude hydroalcoholic extract and formulation showed antimicrobial activity and the emulsion was considered stable in terms of organoleptic, physicochemical, and microbiological properties.

Dietary Supplements and the Skin: Focus on Photoprotection and Antioxidant Activity—A Review

Skin health is not only significantly affected by ageing, but also by other lifestyle-related factors, such as sun exposure, exercise and eating habits, smoking or alcohol intake. It is known that the cutaneous tissue can exhibit visible signs of senescence, in the form of, for example, dull complexion, loss of firmness, or changes in pigmentation. Consumers attempt to improve skin health and appearance not only by cosmetic products, but also with the consumption of food supplements. Recently, there has been an increase in the amount of food supplements with claims that are related to skin and hair health. Nevertheless, the literature is still scarce in evidence of the efficacy of this type of products. Considering this scenario, we aim in this review to assemble studies and methodologies that are directed at the substantiation of the cutaneous health claims of food supplements. For example, we reviewed those that were indicative of antioxidant properties, improvement in pigmentation disorders, increased hydration or protection against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Combined Treatment of Monopolar and Bipolar Radiofrequency Increases Skin Elasticity by Decreasing the Accumulation of Advanced Glycated End Products in Aged Animal Skin

It is well known that skin aging is related to the destruction of collagen and elastin fibers by metalloproteinases (MMPs). Aged fibroblasts have a decreased ability to synthesize collagen and elastin. Nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (NRF2) involves glyoxalase (GLO) activation, which inhibits the production of advanced glycated end products (AGE) and the expression of its receptor (RAGE). RAGE increases nuclear transcription factor-kappa B (NF-κB), which upregulates MMPs and decreases skin elasticity. NRF2 also decreases M1 macrophages, which secrete tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), thereby decreasing AGE production. It is well known that radiofrequency (RF) decreases skin elasticity by increasing collagen synthesis. We evaluated whether RF increases skin elasticity via NRF2/GLO and whether they decrease AGE and RAGE expression in aged animal skin. We also compared the effects of RF based on the modes (monopolar or bipolar) or the combination used. In aged skin, NRF2, GLO-1, and M2 macrophage expression was decreased, and their expression increased when RF was applied. M1 and TNF-α demonstrated increased expression in the aged skin and decreased expression after RF application. AGE accumulation and RAGE, NF-κB, and MMP2/3/9 expression were increased in the aged skin, and they were decreased by RF. The papillary and reticular fibroblast markers showed decreased expression in young skin and increased expression in aged skin. The densities of collagen and elastin fiber in the aged skin were low, and they were increased by RF. In conclusion, RF leads to increased collagen and elastin fibers by increasing NRF2/GLO-1 and modulating M1/M2 polarization, which leads to decreased AGE and RAGE and, consequently, decreased NF-κB, which eventually slows collagen and elastin destruction. RF also leads to increased collagen and elastin fiber synthesis by increasing papillary and reticular fibroblast expression.

Ethanolic Fenugreek Extract: Its Molecular Mechanisms against Skin Aging and the Enhanced Functions by Nanoencapsulation

Fenugreek, or Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (family Leguminosae) seeds, are typically used as food supplements to increase postnatal lactation. Fenugreek extract displays antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, but its mechanisms against skin aging have not been exploited. In this research, we are the first to define an in vitro collagenase inhibitory activity of fenugreek extract (IC₅₀ = 0.57 ± 0.02 mg/mL), which is 2.6 times more potent than vitamin C (IC₅₀ = 1.46 mg/mL). Nanoencapsulation has been applied to improve the extract stability, and subsequently enhanced its bioactivities. Liponiosome encapsulating fenugreek extract (LNF) was prepared using a high-speed homogenizer, resulting in homogeneous spherical nanoparticles with sizes in the range of 174.7 ± 49.2 nm, 0.26 ± 0.04 in PdI, and 46.6 ± 7.4% of entrapment efficiency. LNF formulation significantly facilitated a sustained release and significantly enhanced skin penetration over the extracts, suggesting a potential use of LNF for transdermal delivery. The formulated LNF was highly stable, not toxic to human fibroblast, and was able to enhance cell viability, collagen production, and inhibit MMP1, MMP9, IL-6, and IL-8 secretions compared to the extract in the co-cultured skin model. Therefore, ethanolic fenugreek extract and its developed LNF display molecular mechanisms against skin aging and could potentially be used as an innovative ingredient for the prevention of skin aging.

Intsia bijuga Heartwood Extract and Its Phytosome as Tyrosinase Inhibitor, Antioxidant, and Sun Protector

Intsia bijuga (Colebr.) wood (Indonesian: Merbau) is commercial wood with high economic value and is most commonly found in Indonesia. Intsia wood extractives have biological activities related to their potential as natural active ingredients for antiaging cosmetics This study aimed to select the best extraction solvent and phytosome formulation of I. bijuga heartwood extract as an active ingredient for topical antiaging cosmetics. There were five and three variations on extraction solvent and phytosome formulation, respectively. Three main antiaging activity parameters, namely antioxidant, antityrosinase, and sun protection factor (SPF) values, were considered in selecting the best extract and phytosome formula. The results showed that 50% ethanol possessed good antioxidant and antityrosinase activity, but was lower in SPF value, which was significantly different than in other extracts. The phytochemical profile revealed robidanol and robinetin as the main constituent in five I. bijuga extracts. Phytosome F3 possessed high antioxidant, antityrosinase, and SPF values compared to other 50% ethanol phytosome extracts. It could be concluded that I. bijuga ethanol extracts and its phytosome are potent enough to be developed as an antiaging active ingredient in topical use cosmetics.

The Potentials of Methylene Blue as an Anti-Aging Drug

Methylene blue (MB), as the first fully man-made medicine, has a wide range of clinical applications. Apart from its well-known applications in surgical staining, malaria, and methemoglobinemia, the anti-oxidative properties of MB recently brought new attention to this century-old drug. Mitochondrial dysfunction has been observed in systematic aging that affects many different tissues, including the brain and skin. This leads to increaseding oxidative stress and results in downstream phenotypes under age-related conditions. MB can bypass Complex I/III activity in mitochondria and diminish oxidative stress to some degree. This review summarizes the recent studies on the applications of MB in treating age-related conditions, including neurodegeneration, memory loss, skin aging, and a premature aging disease, progeria.

Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight

OBJECTIVE

Sensitive skin is characterized by self-reported sensory perceptions in response to stimuli that should not provoke unpleasant sensations. Cosmetic products for sensitive skin are designed to minimize these symptoms. This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

METHODS

A pool of products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel whose label included the expressions 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin' were analysed. The active ingredients were identified from product compositions and ranked in descending order of occurrence. The scientific evidence regarding the mechanism of action and efficacy of each ingredient was also compiled.

RESULTS

Eighty-eight products from 19 multinational brands were included. Niacinamide leads the top, followed by Avena sativa, allantoin, glycyrrhetinic acid and derivatives and Laminaria ochroleuca. Ingredients that can reduce skin inflammation and act on the skin barrier were used in more than half of the products analysed. The clinical studies regarding the active ingredients used in these products remain sparse and lack methodological quality. Among the top ingredients, niacinamide, panthenol and acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester were the only ones studied on volunteers having sensitive skin, while acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester and palmitoyl tripeptide-8 were designed to act on the molecular targets involved in this condition.

CONCLUSION

This study reveals the most used active ingredients in cosmetic products for sensitive skin, as well as the scientific evidence supporting their efficacy and the mechanisms of action. This insight is meaningful for dermatologists and other health professionals to provide customized advice based on the symptomatology of individuals with sensitive skin, and for the formulation of cosmetic products and design of new active ingredients.

Development of a skin microbiome diagnostic method to assess skin condition in healthy individuals: Application of research on skin microbiomes and skin condition

OBJECTIVE

Skin microbiomes vary across individuals. They are known to play essential roles in maintaining homeostasis and preventing infectious pathogens. In recent years, cosmetic product development has begun to focus on the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin conditions. However, the statistical methods used in many studies include the standard t-test and small-scale correlation analysis, which do not take into account the internal correlation structure in data on skin microbiomes and skin features. In this study, we aimed to understand the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features by analysing complex microbiomes and skin data.

METHODS

We obtained data on 19 skin characteristics and skin microbiomes based on 16s ribosomal RNA (16S rRNA) gene analysis of 276 healthy Japanese women. We then performed the principal component analysis (PCA), a method that takes into account the internal correlation structure, on 234 panels of them that did not contain outliers or missing values. We confirmed the relationship between skin microbiomes and skin features with principal component regression analysis and hierarchical clustering analysis (HCA).

RESULTS

The principal component regression analysis showed strong relationships between skin microbiomes and sebum-related skin characteristics and skin pH. In the HCA, the female panel was classified into two major groups based on the skin microbiome. Furthermore, there were significant differences in sebum-related skin characteristics and the way skin condition changes with ageing between those groups, suggesting the possibility of measuring skin condition and age-related skin risk based on microbiome data. In addition, sebum-related characteristics differed significantly among middle-aged participants, suggesting a strong relationship between skin microbiomes and sebum-related characteristics.

CONCLUSION

Analysis of skin condition and skin microbiome in Japanese women, taking into account the correlation between variables, showed that skin microbiome was significantly related to the number of pores and the amount of sebum. Furthermore, it was suggested that the skin condition and the way the skin condition changes with ageing may differ depending on the type of skin microbiome. The finding of a relationship between skin condition and skin microbiome suggests the possibility of proposing a new beauty method focusing on the skin microbiome in the future.

A Review on Therapeutic Effects of Labisia pumila on Female Reproductive Diseases

The Labisia pumila (LP) is a traditional plant that is locally known as Kacip Fatimah, Selusuh Fatimah, or Pokok Ringgang by the Malaysian indigenous people. It is believed to facilitate their childbirth, treating their postchild birth and menstrual irregularities. The water extract of LP has shown to contain bioactive compounds such as flavonoids, ascorbic acid, β-carotene, anthocyanin, and phenolic acid, which contribute extensive antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antifungal. The LP ethanolic extract exhibits significant estrogenic effects on human endomentrial adenocarcinoma cell in estrogen-free basal medium and promoting an increase in secretion of alkaline phosphate. Water based has been used for many generations, and studies had reported that it could displace in binding the antibodies and increase the estradiol production making it similar to esterone and estradiol hormone. LP extract poses a potential and beneficial aspect in medical and cosmeceutical applications. This is mainly due to its phytoestrogen properties of the LP. However, there is a specific functionality in the application of LP extract, due to specific functional group in phytoconstituent of LP. Apart from that, the extraction solvent is important in preparing the LP extract as it poses some significant and mild side effects towards consuming the LP extracts. The current situation of women reproductive disease such as postmenopausal syndrome and polycystic ovary syndrome is increasing. Thus, it is important to find ways in alternative treatment for women reproductive disease that is less costly and low side effects. In conclusion, these studies proven that LP has the potential to be an alternative way in treating female reproductive related diseases such as in postmenopausal and polysystic ovarian syndrome women.

Fermented pomegranate extracts protect against oxidative stress and aging of skin

BACKGROUND

Punica granatum (pomegranate) potentially ameliorates skin inflammation and pain, including herpetic stromal keratitis. Fermentation is a biotechnological technique that may naturally induce health benefits by producing antioxidants. However, the anti-aging effect of fermented pomegranate extracts (FPE) on the skin is still unclear.

AIM

This investigation evaluates the effects of fermented pomegranate as a functional supplement (FPE drink, FPE-D) and a cosmetic ingredient (FPE serum, FPE-S) in vitro and in vivo.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The effects of FPE products for anti-oxidation, anti-tyrosinase, anti-inflammation, and anti-aging were examined. Forty subjects were randomly allocated to FPE-D or placebo drink groups (50 ml of a FPE-D /placebo drink daily for 8 weeks for each subject), and another 40 subjects were recruited to FPE-S or placebo serum groups (about 3 ml of a FPE-S /placebo serum daily and nightly/daily for 4 weeks for each subject) in a double-blind study.

RESULTS

The effects of FPE products on the DPPH, ABTS⁺ , and NO· free radical scavenging activities, their inhibiting of tyrosinase activity and their enhancement of the skin health of healthy subjects, were investigated. FPE-D improved the moisture, brightness, elasticity, and collagen density of the skin of most subjects at 8 weeks relative to the baseline without treatment (p < 0.05). After 4 weeks of FPE-S serum consumption, the moisture, brightness, elasticity, spots, UV spots, and collagen density of skin were slightly better than those at week 0 (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The daily consumption of fermented pomegranate extracts can protect the skin against oxidative stress and slow skin aging.

Gastroprotective effects of diosgenin against HCl/ethanol-induced gastric mucosal injury through suppression of NF-κβ and myeloperoxidase activities

Gastric mucosal injury is caused by an imbalance between the mucosal defense and gastro-irritants, leading to gastroenteritis. Diosgenin is a steroidal sapogenin found in the wild Yam plant that has been reported with several pharmacological properties. The aim of this study is to explore the gastroprotective role of diosgenin on gastric mucosal damage caused by HCl/ethanol in rats. Male Sprague-Dawley rats were intragastrically administered with diosgenin (20 mg/kg) before HCl/ethanol (0.15 M HCl in 98 % ethanol) administration. Omeprazole was used as a positive control. Diosgenin-attenuated oxidative stress by enhancing (p < 0.05) antioxidant enzymes, reducing lipid peroxidation (MDA), and modulating nitric oxide (NO) levels. Anti-inflammatory effects of diosgenin were observed by a reduction in pro-inflammatory cytokines (p < 0.05), decreased myeloperoxidase (MPO) activities (p < 0.05), and histopathological observation of gastric mucosal damage. Western blot analysis provided evidence on the downregulation of NF-κβ by diosgenin. The findings showed that diosgenin has a significant protective role on gastric injury caused by HCl/ethanol, through its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory role, and suppression of NF-κβ and MPO activities.

The Protective Effects of a Combination of an Arginine Silicate Complex and Magnesium Biotinate Against UV-Induced Skin Damage in Rats

The purpose of this study was to observe the effects of a novel combination of inositol-stabilized arginine silicate complex (ASI) and magnesium biotinate (MgB) on the prevention of skin damage after UVB exposure in rats. Forty-nine Sprague-Dawley rats were randomized into one of the following groups: (1) NC, normal control, (2) SC, shaved control, (3) UVB (exposed to UVB radiation), (4) ASI+MgB-L (Low Dose), (5) ASI+MgB-H (High Dose), (6) ASI+MgB-L+MgB cream, (7) ASI+MgB-H+MgB cream. The results showed that ASI+MgB treatment alleviated the macroscopic and histopathological damages in the skin of rats caused by UVB exposure. Skin elasticity evaluation showed a similar trend. ASI+MgB increased serum Mg, Fe, Zn, Cu, Si, biotin, and arginine concentrations and skin hydroxyproline and biotinidase levels while decreasing skin elastase activity (p < 0.05) and malondialdehyde (MDA) concentration (p < 0.001). Moreover, ASI+MgB treatment increased skin levels of biotin-dependent carboxylases (ACC1, ACC2, PC, PCC, MCC) and decreased mammalian target of rapamycin (mTOR) pathways and matrix metalloproteinase protein levels by the regulation of the activator protein 1 (AP-1), and mitogen activated protein kinases (MAPKs) signaling pathways. In addition, ASI+MgB caused lower levels of inflammatory factors, including TNF-α, NFκB, IL-6, IL-8, and COX-2 in the skin samples (p < 0.05). The levels of Bax and caspase-3 were increased, while anti-apoptotic protein Bcl-2 was decreased by UVB exposure, which was reversed by ASI+MgB treatment. These results show that treatment with ASI and MgB protects against skin damage by improving skin appearance, elasticity, inflammation, apoptosis, and overall health.

Trends in the Use of Botanicals in Anti-Aging Cosmetics

Botanical ingredients have been used for thousands of years in skincare for their convenience as well as the diversity and abundance in compounds with biological activity. Among these, polyphenols and especially flavonoids have gained increasing prominence due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. In this study, the most used botanical preparations in anti-aging products marketed in 2011 were determined. The analysis was repeated in 2018 for new and reformulated products. The scientific evidence for their application as active ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics and their flavonoid content was also compiled by searching in online scientific databases. Overall, in 2018, there was a noticeable increase in the use of botanical preparations in anti-aging cosmetics. However, the top three botanical species in both years were Vitis vinifera, Butyrospermum parkii, and Glycine soja, which is consistent with the greater amount of scientific evidence supporting their efficacy. Regarding the function of botanical preparations, there is a clear preference for DNA-protecting ingredients. The most prevalent flavonoids were flavan-3-ols, proanthocyanidins, and anthocyanins. This study provided an updated overview of the market trends regarding the use of botanicals in anti-aging products and documented the state of the art of scientific evidence for the most used plants.

The Protective Effect of Polyherbal Formulation, Harak Formula, on UVA-Induced Photoaging of Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Mouse Skin via Promoting Nrf2-Regulated Antioxidant Defense

Polyherbal formulation combining multiple herbs is suggested to achieve enhanced therapeutic effects and reduce toxicity. Harak herbal formula (HRF) extracts were proposed to regulate skin responses to UVR through their ability to suppress UVA-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and pigmentation via promoting antioxidant defenses in in vitro models. Therefore, natural products targeting Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2)-regulated antioxidant response might represent promising anti-photoaging candidates. Hesperetin (HSP) was suggested as a putative bioactive compound of the HRF, as previously shown by its chemical profiling using the liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-QTOF-MS). In this study, we explored the anti-photoaging effects of HRF extracts and HSP on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) and mouse skin exposed to UVA irradiation. Pretreatment of NHDFs with HRF extracts and HSP protected against UVA (8 J/cm²)-mediated cytotoxicity and reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation. The HRF and HSP pretreatment also attenuated the UVA-induced MMP-1 activity and collagen depletion concomitant with an upregulation of Nrf2 activity and its downstream genes (GST and NQO-1). Moreover, our findings provided the in vivo relevance to the in vitro anti-photoaging effects of HRF as topical application of the extracts (10, 30 and 100 mg/cm²) and HSP (0.3, 1, and 3 mg/cm²) 1 h before UVA exposure 3 times per week for 2 weeks (a total dose of 60 J/cm²) mitigated MMP-1 upregulation, collagen loss in correlation with enhanced Nrf2 nuclear accumulation and its target protein GST and NQO-1 as well as reduced 8-hydroxy-2′-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) in irradiated mouse skin. Thus, our findings revealed that HRF extracts and HSP attenuated UVA-induced photoaging via upregulating Nrf2, together with their abilities to reduce ROS formation and oxidative damage. Our study concluded that the HRF and its bioactive ingredient HSP may represent potential candidates for preventing UVA-induced photoaging via restoration of redox balance.

A Unique Acylated Flavonol Glycoside from Prunus persica (L.) var. Florida Prince: A New Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Cosmeceutical Formulation for Skincare

Polyphenols are known dietary antioxidants. They have recently attracted considerable interest in uses to prevent skin aging and hyperpigmentation resulting from solar UV-irradiation. Prunus persica (L.) leaves are considered by-products and were reported to have a remarkable antioxidant activity due to their high content of polyphenols. This study aimed at the development of a cosmeceutical anti-aging and skin whitening cream preparation using ethanol leaves extract of Prunus persica (L.) (PPEE) loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to enhance the skin delivery. Chemical investigation of PPEE showed significantly high total phenolic and flavonoids content with notable antioxidant activities (DPPH, ABTS, and β-carotene assays). A unique acylated kaempferol glycoside with a rare structure, kaempferol 3-O-β-⁴C₁-(6″-O-3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetyl glucopyranoside) (KDPAG) was isolated for the first time and its structure fully elucidated. It represents the first example of acylation with 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl acetic acid in flavonoid chemistry. The in-vitro cytotoxicity studies against a human keratinocytes cell line revealed the non-toxicity of PPEE and PPEE-SLNs. Moreover, PPEE, PPEE-SLNs, and KDPAG showed good anti-elastase activity, comparable to that of N-(Methoxysuccinyl)-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone. Besides, PPEE-SLNs and KDPAG showed significantly (p < 0.001) higher anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities in comparison to EDTA and kojic acid, respectively. Different PPEE-SLNs cream formulae (2% and 5%) were evaluated for possible anti-wrinkle activity against UV-induced photoaging in a mouse model using a wrinkle scoring method and were shown to offer a highly significant protective effect against UV, as evidenced by tissue biomarkers (SOD) and histopathological studies. Thus, the current study demonstrates that Prunus persica leaf by-products provide an interesting, valuable resource for natural cosmetic ingredients. This provides related data for further studying the potential safe use of PPEE-SLNs in topical anti-aging cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin permeation properties.

Fatty acid composition and antioxidant activity of Angelica glauca and Chenopodium album seed extracts from Kashmir

Angelica glauca Edgew. and Chenopodium album Linn. are medicinally important plants with aromatic, nutritious and flavor-enhancing properties. In this study the fatty acid composition of petroleum ether seed extracts (PE) of processed plants were analyzed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The PE consisted mainly of unsaturated fatty acids, such as petroselinic acid 74.26% and oleic acid 7.37% for A. glauca and linoleic acid 53.05% and oleic acid 20.74% for C. album. The de-fatted seed extracts were screened for their antioxidant activities using 2,2-di-phenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitroblue tetrazolium (NBT), hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assay. Almost all the assays resulted in defatted seed extracts showing powerful radical scavenging activity. These findings suggest that the processed plants could be used as ingredients (as a source of natural antioxidants and unsaturated fatty acids) for the formulation of functional foods.

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing.

Further assessment of Salvia haenkei as an innovative strategy to counteract skin photo-aging and restore the barrier integrity

Skin is the essential barrier of the human body which performs multiple functions. Endogenous factors, in concert with external assaults, continuously affect skin integrity, leading to distinct structural changes that influence not only the skin appearance but also its various physiological functions. Alterations of the barrier functions lead to an increased risk of developing disease and side reactions, thus the importance of maintaining the integrity of the epidermal barrier and slowing down the skin aging process is evident.

Salvia haenkei (SH) has been recently identified as a potential anti-senescence agent; its extract is able to decrease the level of senescent cells by affecting the IL1α release and reducing reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation.

In this study, SH extract was tested on human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) exposed to stress factors related to premature aging of cells such as free radicals and ultraviolet B radiation. We confirmed that SH acts as scavenger of ROS and found its ability to restore the skin barrier integrity by reinforcing the cytoskeleton structure, sealing the tight junctions and increasing the migration rate of cells.

Given these results, this work becomes relevant, identifying Salvia haenkei as a compound useful for anti-aging skin treatment in clinical performance.

Enhanced Cellular Uptake and Sustained Transdermal Delivery of Collagen for Skin Regeneration

The present study reports a method for transporting high molecular weight collagen for skin regeneration. An independent engineered enzymatic vehicle that has the ability for efficient transdermal delivery of regenerative biomaterial was developed for tissue regeneration. Collagen has been well recognized as a skin regeneration molecule due to its interaction with the extracellular matrix to stimulate skin cell growth, proliferation, and differentiation. However, the transdermal delivery of collagen poses a significant challenge due to its high molecular weight as well as a lack of efficient approaches. Here, to improve the transdermal delivery efficiency, α-1,4-glycosidic hydrolase was engineered with genetically encoded 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine, which enhanced its biological activity as revealed by microscale thermophoresis. The remodeled catalytic pocket resulted in enhanced substrate binding activity of the enzyme with a predominant glycosaminoglycan (chondroitin sulfate) present in the extracellular matrix of the skin. The engineered enzyme rapidly opened up the skin extracellular matrix fiber (15 min) to ferry collagen across the wall, without disturbing the cellular bundle architecture. Confocal microscopy indicated that macromolecules had diffused three times deeper into the engineered enzyme-treated skin than the native enzyme-treated skin. Gene expression, histopathology, and hematology analysis also supported the penetration of macromolecules. Cytotoxicity (mammalian cell culture) and in vivo (Caenorhabditis elegans and Rattus noryegicus) studies revealed that the congener enzyme could potentially be used as a penetration enhancer, which is of paramount importance for the multimillion cosmetic industries. Hence, it offers promise as a pharmaceutical enzyme for transdermal delivery bioenhancement and dermatological applications.

Aloe barbadensis: A Plant of Nutricosmetic Interest

Aloe barbadensis Miller (Aloe Vera Linne) products have long been employed in health foods and for medical purposes. It has anti-inflammatory, antifungal, antioxidant properties, which indicates excellent potential in antiaging cosmetic and skin protection products. The objective of this study is to evaluate the antiaging efficacy of dermocosmetic formulations containing A. barbadensis extract on young and mature skin using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. Twenty healthy adult volunteers participated in the study, aged between 20 and 65. The cream formulation, with 10% (w/w) of A. barbadensis extract, and placebo, were applied to the face of the volunteers. The effects were evaluated in terms of skin hydration and barrier effect by the measurement of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), derma firmness, and elasticity. The formulation containing A. barbadensis extract significantly improves water contained in the stratum corneum, firmness, elasticity of the skin, and decreased TEWL.

Sweet Cherry Byproducts Processed by Green Extraction Techniques as a Source of Bioactive Compounds with Antiaging Properties

In the cosmetic industry, there is a continuous demand for new and innovative ingredients for product development. In the context of continual renovation, both cosmetic companies and customers are particularly interested in compounds derived from natural sources due to their multiple benefits. In this study, novel and green-extractive techniques (pressurized solvent, supercritical CO₂, and subcritical water extractions) were used to obtain three new extracts from sweet cherry stems, a byproduct generated by the food industry. The extracts were characterized by high-performance liquid chromatography coupled to quadrupole-time-of-flight mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS), and 57 compounds, mainly flavonoids but also organic and phenolic acids, fatty acids, and terpenes, were identified. After analytical characterization, a multistep screening approach, including antioxidant, enzymatic, and photoprotective cellular studies, was used to select the best extract according to its benefits of interest to the cosmetics industry. The extract obtained with supercritical CO₂ presented the best characteristics, including a wide antioxidant capacity, especially against lipid peroxyl and ^•OH free radicals, as well as relevant photoprotective action and antiaging properties, making it a potential new ingredient for consideration in the development of new cosmetics.

Depigmentation and Anti-aging Treatment by Natural Molecules

Natural molecules are becoming more accepted choices as cosmetic agents, many products in the market today claim to include natural components. Plants include many substances that could be of a value in the whitening of the skin and working as anti-aging agents. A wide range of articles related to natural skin whitening and anti-aging agents have been reviewed. Many plant-derived and natural molecules have shown to affect melanin synthesis by different mechanisms, examples include Arbutin, Ramulus mori extract, Licorice extract, Glabridin, Liquiritin, Kojic acid, Methyl gentisate, Aloesin, Azelaic acid, Vitamin C, Thioctic acid, Soya bean extracts, Niacinamide, α and β-hydroxy acids, Lactic acid, Chamomile extract, and Ellagic acid. Some of the widely used natural anti-aging products as natural antioxidants, collagen, hyaluronic acid, and coenzyme Q can counteract the effects of reactive oxygen species in skin cells and have anti-aging properties on the skin. It was concluded that many natural products including antioxidants can prevent UV-induced skin damage and have whitening and anti-aging effects. It is very important to develop and stabilize appropriate methods for the evaluation of the whitening and anti-aging capacity of natural products and their exact mechanism of action to ensure real efficacy based on evidence-based studies. The attention should be oriented on the formulations and the development of an appropriate vehicle to ensure suitable absorption of these natural products in addition to evaluating the suitable concentration of these molecules required having the desired effects without causing harmful side effects.

Phytosterols of marine algae: Insights into the potential health benefits and molecular pharmacology

BACKGROUND

Marine algae are rich in some unique biologically active secondary metabolites having diverse pharmacological benefits. Of these, sterols comprise a group of functional lipid compounds that have attracted much attention to natural product scientists.

PURPOSE

This review was aimed to update information on the health effects of algae-derived phytosterols and their molecular interactions in various aspects of human health and diseases and to address some future perspectives that may open up a new dimension of pharmacological potentials of algal sterols.

METHODS

A literature-based search was carried out to retrieve published research information on the potential health effects of algal phytosterols with their pharmacological mechanisms from accessible online databases, such as Pubmed, Google Scholar, Web of Science, and Scopus, using the key search terms of 'marine algae sterol' and 'health potentials such as antioxidant or anti-inflammatory or anti-Alzheimer's or anti-obesity or cholesterol homeostasis or hepatoprotective, antiproliferative, etc.'

RESULTS

Phytosterols of marine algae, particularly fucosterol, have been investigated for a plethora of health benefits, including anti-diabetes, anti-obesity, anti-Alzheimer's, antiaging, anticancer, and hepatoprotection, among many others, which are attributed to their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, immunomodulatory and cholesterol-lowering properties, indicating their potentiality as therapeutic leads. These sterols interact with enzymes and various other proteins that are actively participating in different cellular pathways, including antioxidant defense system, apoptosis and cell survival, metabolism, and homeostasis.

CONCLUSION

In this review, we briefly overview the chemistry, pharmacokinetics, and distribution of algal sterols, and provide critical insights into their potential health effects and the underlying pharmacological mechanisms, beyond the well-known cholesterol-lowering paradigm.

Chemical Compositions and Anti-Skin-Ageing Activities of Origanum vulgare L. Essential Oil from Tropical and Mediterranean Region

Origanum vulgare L. has been used as a culinary ingredient worldwide. This study revealed the cosmeceutical potential of O. vulgare essential oil as a skin-ageing retardant. The O. vulgare essential oil from a highland area of a tropical country (HO), obtained by hydrodistillation was investigated and compared to a commercial oil from the Mediterranean region (CO). Their chemical compositions were investigated by gas chromatography–mass spectrometry. Antioxidant activities were investigated by ferric reducing antioxidant power, 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl, and ferric thiocyanate assay. Anti-skin-ageing activities were determined by means of collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase inhibition. Carvacrol was the major component in both oils, but a higher amount was detected in HO (79.5%) than CO (64.6%). HO possessed comparable radical scavenging activity to CO (IC₅₀ = 1.8 ± 0.8 mg/mL) but significantly higher lipid peroxidation inhibition (38.0 ± 0.8%). Carvacrol was remarked as the major compound responsible for the reducing power of both oils. Interestingly, HO possessed significant superior anti-skin-ageing activity than ascorbic acid (P < 0.01), with inhibition against collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase of 92.0 ± 9.7%, 53.1 ± 13.3%, and 16.7 ± 0.3%, at the concentration of 67, 25, and 4 µg/mL, respectively. Since HO possessed comparable anti-hyaluronidase activity to CO and superior anti-collagenase and anti-elastase (P < 0.01), HO was suggested to be used as a natural skin-ageing retardant in a cosmetic industry.