Skin photoaging and the role of antioxidants in its prevention

Chronic ultraviolet irradiation induces memory deficits via dysregulation of the dopamine pathway

The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation on brain function have previously been investigated; however, the specific neurotransmitter-mediated mechanisms responsible for UV radiation-induced neurobehavioral changes remain elusive. In this study, we aimed to explore the mechanisms underlying UV radiation-induced neurobehavioral changes. In a mouse model, we observed that UV irradiation of the skin induces deficits in hippocampal memory, synaptic plasticity, and adult neurogenesis, as well as increased dopamine levels in the skin, adrenal glands, and brain. Chronic UV exposure altered the expression of genes involved in dopaminergic neuron differentiation. Furthermore, chronic peripheral dopamine treatments resulted in memory deficits. Systemic administration of a dopamine D1/D5 receptor antagonist reversed changes in memory, synaptic plasticity, adult neurogenesis, and gene expression in UV-irradiated mice. Our findings provide converging evidence that chronic UV exposure alters dopamine levels in the central nervous system and peripheral organs, including the skin, which may underlie the observed neurobehavioral shifts, such as hippocampal memory deficits and impaired neurogenesis. This study underscores the importance of protection from UV exposure and introduces the potential of pharmacological approaches targeting dopamine receptors to counteract the adverse neurological impacts of UV exposure.

Intra-Individual Paired Mass Spectrometry Dataset for Decoding Solar-Induced Proteomic Changes in Facial Skin

Photoaging is the premature aging of the skin caused by prolonged exposure to solar radiation. The visual alterations manifest as wrinkles, reduced skin elasticity, uneven skin tone, as well as other signs that surpass the expected outcomes of natural aging. Beyond these surface changes, there is a complex interplay of molecular alterations, encompassing shifts in cellular function, DNA damage, and protein composition disruptions. This data descriptor introduces a unique dataset derived from ten individuals, each with a minimum of 18 years of professional experience as a driver, who are asymmetrically and chronically exposed to solar radiation due to their driving orientation. Skin samples were independently collected from each side of the face using a microdermabrasion-like procedure and analyzed on an Exploris 240 mass spectrometer. Our adapted proteomic statistical framework leverages the sample pairing to provide robust insights. This dataset delves into the molecular differences in exposed skin and serves as a foundational resource for interdisciplinary research in photodermatology, targeted skincare treatments, and computational modelling of skin health.

Knowledge, attitude, and practice toward photoaging in the Chinese population: a cross-sectional study

To investigate the knowledge, attitude, and practice (KAP) of photoaging in the Chinese population. This web-based cross-sectional study was conducted between January 2023 and March 2023 among the Chinese population aged 18-80 years old. Participants' knowledge, attitude, and practice toward photoaging were collected through a self-administered questionnaire. A total of 830 questionnaires were collected, with 826 valid questionnaires and an efficiency rate of 99.52%. There were 274 (33.17%) males and 532 (64.41%) aged 31-51 years old. The average knowledge, attitude, and practice scores were 7 (4, 9) (possible range 0-12), 31.5 (28, 34) (possible range 8-40), and 33 (24, 42) (possible range 11-55), respectively, indicating poor knowledge, good attitude, and moderate practice. Spearman correlation analysis showed that knowledge was negatively correlated with attitude (r = - 0.111, P < 0.05) and practice (r = - 0.113, P < 0.05), and attitude was positively correlated with practice (r = 0.992, P < 0.05). The multivariable linear regression model showed that for each point increase in attitude score, the practice score increased by 2.96 points (β = 2.96, 95% CI 2.91-3.01, P < 0.001). The Chinese population has poor knowledge, good attitude, and moderate practice toward photoaging. A good attitude toward photoaging would lead to good practice, and more outreach and education for the Chinese population might be needed.

Skin healthcare protection with antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activity of polysaccharide purification from Bletilla striata

In this study, we investigated the structural characterization and biological activities of Bletilla striata polysaccharides (BSPs) for their role as antioxidants and anti-melanogenesis agents in skin healthcare protection. Three neutral polysaccharides (BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3) with molecular weights of 269.121 kDa, 57.389 kDa, and 28.153 kDa were extracted and purified. Their structural characteristics were analyzed by ion chromatography, GC-MS, and 1D/2D NMR. The results showed that BSP-1, which constitutes the major part of BSPs, was composed of α-D-Glcp, β-D-Glcp, β-D-Manp, and 2-O-acetyl-β-D-Manp, with the branched-chain accompanied by β-D-Galp and α-D-Glcp. BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 can enhance the total antioxidant capacity of skin fibroblasts with non-toxicity. Meanwhile, BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 could significantly inhibit the proliferative activity of melanoma cells. Among them, BSP-1 and BSP-2 showed more significance in anti-melanogenesis, tyrosinase inhibition activity, and cell migration inhibition. BSPs have effective antioxidant capacity and anti-melanogenesis effects, which should be further emphasized and developed as skin protection components.

Skin benefits of postbiotics derived from Micrococcus luteus derived from human skin: an untapped potential for dermatological health

BACKGROUND

The skin microbiome, a diverse community of microorganisms, plays a crucial role in maintaining skin health. Among these microorganisms, the gram-positive bacterium Micrococcus luteus exhibits potential for promoting skin health. This study focuses on postbiotics derived from M. luteus YM-4, a strain isolated from human skin.

OBJECTIVE

Our objective is to explore the beneficial effects of YM-4 culture filtrate on dermatological health, including enhancing barrier function, modulating immune response, and aiding recovery from environmental damage.

METHODS

The effects of the YM-4 culture filtrate were tested on human keratinocytes and fibroblasts under various conditions using real-time PCR for gene expression analysis and fibroblast migration assays. A dehydration-simulated model was employed to prepare RNA-Seq samples from HaCaT cells treated with the YM-4 culture filtrate. Differentially expressed genes were identified and functionally classified through k-means clustering, gene ontology terms enrichment analyses, and protein-protein interactions mapping.

RESULTS

The YM-4 culture filtrate enhanced the expression of genes involved in skin hydration, hyaluronic acid synthesis, barrier function, and cell proliferation. It also reduced inflammation markers in keratinocytes and fibroblasts under stress conditions. It mitigated UVB-induced collagen degradation while promoted collagen synthesis, suggesting anti-aging properties, and accelerated wound healing processes by promoting cell proliferation and migration. RNA sequencing analysis revealed that the YM-4 culture filtrate could reverse dehydration-induced transcriptional changes towards a state similar to untreated cells.

CONCLUSION

M. luteus YM-4 culture filtrate exhibits significant therapeutic potential for dermatological applications.

Fisetin Inhibits UVA-Induced Expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 through the NOX/ROS/MAPK Pathway in Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Human Epidermal Keratinocytes

Fisetin is a flavonoid found in plants and has been reported to be effective in various human diseases. However, the effective mechanisms of ultraviolet-A (UVA)-mediated skin damage are not yet clear. In this study, we investigated the protective mechanisms of fisetin regarding UVA-induced human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) and human epidermal keratinocytes (HEKs) damages. Fisetin showed a cytoprotective effect against UVA irradiation and suppressed matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), MMP-1, and MMP-3 expression. In addition, fisetin was rescued, which decreased mRNA levels of pro-inflammatory cytokines, reactive oxygen species production, and the downregulation of MAPK/AP-1 related protein and NADPH oxidase (NOX) mRNA levels. Furthermore, UVA-induced MMP-1 and MMP-3 were effectively inhibited by siRNAs to NOX 1 to 5 in HDFs and HEKs. These results indicate that fisetin suppresses UVA-induced damage through the NOX/ROS/MAPK pathway in HDFs and HEKs.

Green Synthesis of Zein-Based Nanoparticles Encapsulating Lupulone: Antibacterial and Antiphotoaging Agents

Prolonged skin exposure to UV radiation may result in sunburn, with possible inflammatory and oxidative stress to the skin, skin photoaging, photocarcinogenesis, even DNA damage, and apoptosis if sunscreen protection is not used. Due to the advantages that they offer, high encapsulation capability, increased stability of encapsulated bioactive agents, and release control, nanoparticulate materials have been used in sunscreens despite the hazard that they present: their capacity to penetrate the skin causing toxic side effects (especially the chemical sunscreens). The present study reports the preparation of nanoparticulate composites containing only GRAS substances and using an eco-friendly, inexpensive procedure. The ingredients used have properties that are beneficial to the skin. Zein (Z), a prolamin-rich protein from corn, is biodegradable and biocompatible, is a moisture attractor, and shows effective absorption by cells. Lupulone (L), extracted from hops, is an antibacterial and antioxidant agent that has a stimulating effect on the collagen production in the body due to its content of phytohormones. Gum arabic (GA) is a natural glycoprotein used in beverages and cosmetics as an emulsifier/stabilizer. Composite matrices containing Z/GA/L were prepared using a simple method (antisolvent), which replaces the flammable solvent ethanol with aqueous propylene glycol. The nanocomposites were characterized by FTIR, composition, encapsulation efficiency, and loading capacity for L, size, zeta potential, and morphology (SEM). Their biological activity was investigated as well. The zein-based nanoparticles showed antioxidant and antimicrobial effects (even some synergistic, unexpected behavior) and modulatory activity on the matrix metalloproteinase MMP-1. Due to their properties, the nanoparticles discussed herein show potential for use in formulations for the skin, especially for mature skin, replacing chemical substances with potential side effects used typically in topical delivery systems.

Research on Circular RNA Expression Profiles in the Photoaging Mouse Model

Background

Nude mouse has been widely used to study photoaging induced by long-term chronic UV exposure. Circular RNAs (circRNAs) have been previously identified in several diseases. However, the roles of circRNAs in photoaging and potential regulatory mechanisms remain unclear.

Objectives

To identify specific circRNAs differentially expressed in photoaged skin and investigate their potential role in aging.

Materials and Methods

In this study, we screened out the microarray data to profile the expression of circRNAs. The circRNAs were analyzed by Gene Ontology (GO) and Kyoto Encyclopedia of Genes and Genomes (KEGG) biological pathway.

Results

36 circRNAs were identified to be differentially expressed between the UV group and control group (fold change > 1.5; P < 0.05), including 6 upregulated and 30 downregulated circRNAs. GO and KEGG biological pathway analyses indicated that the changes in circRNAs were associated with cancer, inflammation, oxidative stress, and metabolism.

Conclusions

This present study revealed a circRNAs expression profiling in vivo. These findings not only provide a new possibility to prevent the occurrence of photoaging but also have therapeutic values for photoaging and associated skin diseases.

Safety evaluation and effects of cascara pulp Gayo Arabica coffee cream as anti-photoaging in animal model

Prolonged sunlight and ultraviolet (UV) exposure causes premature skin aging called photoaging and coffee-derived topical antioxidants may help to reduce this process. Since a significant amount of antioxidant-rich cascara pulp are wasted in coffee processing, this study aimed to evaluate the safety of cascara extract cream of Gayo Arabica coffee pulp (CECGACP) as anti-photoaging in male Wistar rats (Rattus norvegicus) by assessing the skin primary irritation index (PII), skin macroscopic changes and the level of tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α). Twenty-five rats were randomly divided into five different groups: negative control (base cream only), positive control containing L-ascorbic acid 3%, and three treatment groups treated with cream containing 5%, 7.5% and 10% of CECGACP. The CECGACP was extracted, formulated into cream as a topical treatment and applied on the backs of the rats two times a day, once before the UV exposure and four hours after the exposure. After four weeks, the skins were macroscopically examined, and the TNF-α levels were measured. The PII was assessed after applying the cream 24 hours before UX exposure. Our data suggested that CECGACP was considered safe because there were no erythema and edema formation on the skin of the rats with PII score of 0 (classified as no irritation or negligible). After UV exposure, all rats had visible wrinkles and erythema on the skin in particular in the first week. After administration of CECGACP, both wrinkles and erythema were decreased. The levels of TNF-α varied from 0.15±0.02 ng/mL in the negative control and CECGACP 7.5% rat groups to 0.19±0.03 in the positive control group; however, there was no significant difference among all the groups. Our study suggests that CECGACP is safe to use in Wistar rats and able to reduce the erythema and edema due to UV exposure. However, the application of CECGACP does not provide a significant reduction of TNF-α levels.

Development and Evaluation of an Innovative Approach Using Niosomes Based Polymeric Microneedles to Deliver Dual Antioxidant Drugs

Ascorbic acid (AA) and caffeine (CAFF) work to protect cells from ultraviolet (UV) radiation and slow down the photoaging process of the skin. However, cosmetic application of AA and CAFF is limited due to poor penetration across the skin and rapid oxidation of AA. The aim of this study was to design and evaluate the dermal delivery of dual antioxidants utilizing microneedles (MNs) loaded with AA and CAFF niosomes. The niosomal nanovesicles were prepared using the thin film method and had particle sizes ranging from 130.6-411.2 nm and a negative Zeta potential of around -35 mV. The niosomal formulation was then combined with polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and polyethylene glycol 400 (PEG 400) to create an aqueous polymer solution. The best skin deposition of AA and CAFF was achieved with the formulation containing 5% PEG 400 (M3) and PVP. Furthermore, the role of AA and CAFF as antioxidants in preventing cancer formation has been well-established. Here we validated the antioxidant properties of ascorbic acid (AA) and caffeine (CAFF) in a novel niosomal formulation referred to as M3 by testing its ability to prevent H₂O₂-indued cell damage and apoptosis in MCF-7 breast cancer cells. Results showed that M3 was able to shield MCF-7 cells from H₂O₂ induced damage at concentrations below 2.1 µg/mL for AA and 1.05 µg/mL for CAFF, and also exhibited anticancer effects at higher concentrations of 210 µg/mL for AA and 105 µg/mL. The formulations were stable for two months at room temperature in terms of moisture and drug content. The use of MNs and niosomal carriers could be a promising approach for dermal delivery of hydrophilic drugs like AA and CAFF.

Human hair proteins as natural reactive oxygen species scavengers for in vitro applications

Human hair proteins are recognized for their intrinsically high cysteine content. They can be solubilized while preserving their highly reductive thiol groups for free radical scavenging applications. The presence of aromatic and nucleophilic amino acids such as methionine, serine, phenylalanine, and threonine further contribute to the antioxidative potential of this material. Herein, utilizing the DPPH (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl) and acellular 2',7'-dichlorodihydrofluorescein diacetate (H₂ DCFDA) assays, keratins are demonstrated to possess the highest radical scavenging activity among the studied hair proteins. Consequently, protection against hydrogen peroxide-induced oxidative stress in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) cultured in human hair keratin supplemented media is demonstrated. Quenching of reactive oxygen species in the HDF is observed using the CellROX Green dye and the expression levels of antioxidant (HMOX1, SOD2, GPX1) and tumor suppressor (TP53) genes is analyzed using qPCR. Collectively, this study presents further evidence and demonstrates the in vitro application potential of hair proteins, especially keratins, as an antioxidizing supplement.

Photoaging: Reversal of the Oxidative Stress Through Dietary Changes and Plant-Based Products

Redox flagging represents all life processes, and maintaining a physiological level of antioxidants is essential for the legitimate working of the cell. Genetics and environmental triggers are two major culminating factors for skin aging, both chronological and photoaging. The latter, however, relies principally upon the level of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) exposure and the skin phototype. Apart from causing DNA damage, UVR also stimulates the receptors present in keratinocytes as well as fibroblasts. This in turn leads to the breakdown of collagen and a breach in the generation of new collagen. It is speculated that the breakdown of collagen in the dermis is ensured by the defective restoration that ultimately hampers the structural integrity of skin, leading to wrinkled and atrophic skin. The skin has an admixture of various endogenous antioxidants that work synergistically with vitamins and minerals to maintain cellular equilibrium. Although, their role in safeguarding the cells against the detrimental effects induced by UVR is still questionable and requires further research. However, the advancement in the biology of skin has led to the development of strategies that aim at skin rejuvenation and retarding the progression of photoaging and its visible signs. Photoaging in this article is reviewed in light of current concepts in pathogenesis and its prevention. In addition, the article focuses on both prevailing and forthcoming treatment strategies primarily through plant-based products that will help slow down the process of photoaging.

Photoprotective Effect of Fermented and Aged Mountain-Cultivated Ginseng Sprout (Panax ginseng) on Ultraviolet Radiation-Induced Skin Aging in a Hairless Mouse Model

Interest in foods that promote inner beauty increases with increases in exposure to ultraviolet (UV) rays and with improvements in quality of life. This study was performed to evaluate the efficacy of fermented and aged mountain-cultivated ginseng sprouts (FAMCGSs), which have higher anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects compared to mountain-cultivated ginseng sprouts (MCGSs), as an inner beauty enhancing food. The effect of orally administered FAMCGSs on UV type B (UVB) radiation-induced skin aging was investigated in a hairless mouse model through analyzing skin parameters including epidermal thickness, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), roughness, moisture, elasticity, and collagen contents. The mice exposed to UVB had markedly greater epidermal thickness, TEWL, and skin roughness than those of the normal control (NC) group. In addition, the levels of collagen, skin moisture, and dermal elasticity were lower in the UVB radiation group than the NC group. These UVB-induced skin aging parameters were significantly lower in the groups administered FAMCGSs than in the groups not administered FAMCGSs (p < 0.05). These results show that FAMCGSs exhibit a photoprotective effect in mice exposed to UVB and suggest that FAMCGSs can be used as a food that promotes inner beauty and protects skin from UVB-induced photoaging.

Marine Natural Products as Innovative Cosmetic Ingredients

Over the course of the last 20 years, numerous studies have identified the benefits of an array of marine natural ingredients for cosmetic purposes, as they present unique characteristics not found in terrestrial organisms. Consequently, several marine-based ingredients and bioactive compounds are under development, used or considered for skin care and cosmetics. Despite the multitude of cosmetics based on marine sources, only a small proportion of their full potential has been exploited. Many cosmetic industries have turned their attention to the sea to obtain innovative marine-derived compounds for cosmetics, but further research is needed to determine and elucidate the benefits. This review gathers information on the main biological targets for cosmetic ingredients, different classes of marine natural products of interest for cosmetic applications, and the organisms from which such products can be sourced. Although organisms from different phyla present different and varied bioactivities, the algae phylum seems to be the most promising for cosmetic applications, presenting compounds of many classes. In fact, some of these compounds present higher bioactivities than their commercialized counterparts, demonstrating the potential presented by marine-derived compounds for cosmetic applications (i.e., Mycosporine-like amino acids and terpenoids’ antioxidant activity). This review also summarizes the major challenges and opportunities faced by marine-derived cosmetic ingredients to successfully reach the market. As a future perspective, we consider that fruitful cooperation among academics and cosmetic industries could lead to a more sustainable market through responsible sourcing of ingredients, implementing ecological manufacturing processes, and experimenting with inventive recycling and reuse programs.

Effects of probiotics supplementation on skin photoaging and skin barrier function: A systematic review and meta-analysis

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is one of the major causes of skin aging. To date, there remains limited evidence on using oral probiotics for skin anti-photoaging.

OBJECTIVES

This systematic review and meta-analysis aims to assess the effects of probiotics on skin photoaging.

METHODS

We searched the PubMed and Embase databases for studies published until August 31, 2021, and included randomized controlled trials, murine randomized controlled experiments, and in vitro studies. Skin barrier function was compared between UV irradiated probiotics and controls.

RESULTS

After given oral probiotics supplements, a significant reduction was shown in all types of measured MMPs in both murine and in vitro studies. Oral probiotics supplementation significantly reversed UV-induced increase of epidermal thickness (standardized mean differences [SMD] = -1.76; 95% confidence interval [CI] = -3.04 to -0.49; p = .007; I²  = 81%), UV-induced increase trans-epidermal water loss (SMD = -1.72; 95% CI = -2.76 to -0.67; p = .001; I²  = 57%), and UV-induced skin dehydration (SMD = 1.85; 95% CI = 1.16 to 2.55; p < .00001; I²  = 4%).

CONCLUSIONS

Probiotics are effective against skin photoaging in terms of MMP pathways and reversing skin barrier function from murine randomized data. Further randomized controlled trials on humans are required to warrant these results.

Antiaging properties of antioxidant photoprotective polymeric nanoparticles loaded with coenzyme-Q10

Skin is the most extensive organ within our body. It is continually subjected to stress factors, among which ultraviolet irradiation, a key factor responsible in skin aging since it leads to reactive oxygen species production. In order to fight against these oxidative species, the human body has an innate robust antioxidant mechanism composed of several different substances, one of which is coenzyme Q₁₀. Its capacity to increase cellular energy production and excellent antioxidant properties have been proved, as well as its antiaging properties being able to attenuate cellular damage induced by ultraviolet irradiation in human dermal fibroblasts. However, its high hydrophobicity and photolability hampers its therapeutic potential. In this context, the objective of this work consists of the preparation of chitosan-rosmarinic acid conjugate-based nanoparticles to encapsulate coenzyme Q10 with high encapsulation efficiencies in order to improve its bioavailability and broaden its therapeutic use in skin applications. Hyaluronic acid coating was performed giving stable nanoparticles at physiological pH with 382 ± 3 nm of hydrodynamic diameter (0.04 ± 0.02 polydispersity) and - 18 ± 3 mV of surface charge. Release kinetics studies showed a maximum of 82 % mass release of coenzyme Q₁₀ after 40 min, and radical scavenger activity assay confirmed the antioxidant character of chitosan-rosmarinic acid nanoparticles. Hyaluronic acid-coated chitosan-rosmarinic acid nanoparticles loaded with coenzyme Q₁₀ were biocompatible in human dermal fibroblasts and exhibited interesting photoprotective properties in ultraviolet irradiated cells. In addition, nanoparticles hindered the production of reactive oxygen species, interleukin-6 and metalloproteinase-1, as well as caspase-9 activation maintaining high viability values upon irradiation of dermal fibroblasts. Overall results envision a great potential of these nanovehicles for application in skin disorders or antiaging treatments.

Effect of Secretome-Hypoxia Mesenchymal Stem Cells on Regulating SOD and MMP-1 mRNA Expressions in Skin Hyperpigmentation Rats

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is the main factor causing hyperpigmentation. MSC secretome contains bioactive soluble molecules such as cytokines and growth factors that can accelerate skin regeneration. However, the molecular role of the secretome in hyperpigmentation is still unclear. AIM: This study aimed to determine the effect of secretome hypoxia mesenchymal stem cells (S-HMSC) gel on the expression of superoxide dismutase (SOD) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1) genes in skin tissue of hyperpigmented rats induced by UVB light exposure. MATERIALS AND METHODS: Experimental research with post-test only control group. The control, base gel, T1 and T2 groups were UVB irradiated 6 times in 14 days at 302 nm with an minimal erythema dose of 390 mJ/cm2, respectively, while sham group did not receive UVB exposure. T1 was given 100 uL of S-HMSC gel and T2 was given 200 uL of S-HMSC gel every day for 14 days, while base gel received base gel. On day 15, skin tissue was isolated and analyzed for SOD and MMP-1 expression using qRT-PCR. RESULTS: The relative expression of the SOD gene in the treatment group (P1 = 0.47 ± 0.20, P2 = 1.22 ± 0.47) increased with increasing dose compared to the control group (UVB = 0.05 ± 0.01, Base gel = 0.05 ± 0.02). The relative expression of the MMP-1 gene in the treatment group (T1 = 5.82 ± 1.16, T2 = 2.86 ± 1.57) decreased with increasing dose compared to the control group (Control = 10.10 ± 2.31, and Base gel = 9.55 ± 1.29). CONCLUSION: Administration of S-HMSC gel can increase SOD gene expression and decrease MMP-1 gene expression in skin tissue of hyperpigmented rats model induced by UVB light.

Limonene protects human skin keratinocytes against UVB-induced photodamage and photoaging by activating the Nrf2-dependent antioxidant defense system

Long term exposure to solar ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is one of the primary factors of premature skin aging and is referred to as photoaging. Also, mammalian skin exposed to UVB triggers an increase in production of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), which is critically involved in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentary skin diseases. This study investigated the protective effect of limonene on UVB-induced photodamage and photoaging in immortalized human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT) in vitro. Initially, we determined cell viability and levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Pretreatment with limonene increased cell viability followed by inhibition of intracellular ROS generation in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Interestingly, the antioxidative activity of limonene was directly correlated with an increase in expression of endogenous antioxidants, including heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H:quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO-1), and γ-glutamylcysteine synthetase (γ-GCLC), which was associated with enhanced nuclear translocation and activation of NF-E2-related factor-2 (Nrf2). Indeed, Nrf2 knockdown reduced limonene's protective effects. Additionally, we observed that limonene treatment inhibited UVB-induced α-MSH secretion followed by inhibition of proopiomelanocortin (POMC) via suppression of p53 transcriptional activation. Moreover, limonene prevented UVB-mediated depletion of tight junction regulatory proteins, including occludin and zonula occludens-1. On the other hand, limonene treatment significantly decreased matrix metalloproteinase-2 levels in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Based on these results, limonene may have a dermato-protective effect in skin cells by activating the Nrf2-dependent cellular antioxidant defense system.

The Mangosteen Peel Ethyl Acetate Extract-based Cream Inhibits Ultraviolet-B Radiation-induced Hyperpigmentation in Guinea Pig Skin

BACKGROUND: Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is the main factor causing the aberrant melanin pigments leading to skin hyperpigmentation. Retinoic acid and hydroquinone are the primary preference for the skin whitening agents in preventing hyperpigmentation. However, these treatments could induce slight-to-severe irritation leading to skin cancer. Mangosteen peel possesses α-mangostin, the primary constituent of xanthones in mangosteen peel that has potency as an anti-tyrosinase for treating issues of skin hyperpigmentation. AIM: This study aims to demonstrate the capacity of mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract-based cream in inhibiting the UVB radiation-induced skin hyperpigmentation in guinea pig. MATERIALS AND METHODS: A total of 25 female guinea pigs were used to produce UVB-irradiated skin hyperpigmentation model. Guinea pig skins were treated with 12% mangosteen ethyl acetate extract-based cream. Mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor activity was used to evaluate the capacity of mangosteen extract in inhibiting tyrosinase activity in vitro. The melanin index in guinea pig skin after treatments was analyzed using a mexameter. The percentage of epidermal melanin-contained keratinocytes of skin tissues were analyzed using masson fontana. Pmel17 expression in cell surface was determined using immunohistochemistry. The level of tyrosinase in tissue homogenates was analyzed using Enzyme-linked immunosorbent assays. RESULTS: Mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract showed potent inhibitory activity against the mushroom tyrosinase. Its-based cream decreased melanin index, epidermal melanin, Pmel17 expression, and tyrosinase level in hyperpigmentation skin tissues. CONCLUSION: Overall, our study demonstrates the capacity of mangosteen peel ethyl acetate extract-based cream in inhibiting the UVB radiation-induced skin hyperpigmentation in guinea pig.

On the Potential Role of the Antioxidant Couple Vitamin E/Selenium Taken by the Oral Route in Skin and Hair Health

The relationship between oxidative stress and skin aging/disorders is well established. Many topical and oral antioxidants (vitamins C and E, carotenoids, polyphenols) have been proposed to protect the skin against the deleterious effect induced by increased reactive oxygen species production, particularly in the context of sun exposure. In this review, we focused on the combination of vitamin E and selenium taken in supplements since both molecules act in synergy either by non-enzymatic and enzymatic pathways to eliminate skin lipids peroxides, which are strongly implicated in skin and hair disorders.

Gut Microbiota-Assisted Synthesis, Cellular Interactions and Synergistic Perspectives of Equol as a Potent Anticancer Isoflavone

It is well known that, historically, plants have been an important resource of anticancer agents, providing several clinically approved drugs. Numerous preclinical studies have shown a strong anticancer potential of structurally different phytochemicals, including polyphenolic constituents of plants, flavonoids. In this review article, suppressing effects of equol in different carcinogenesis models are unraveled, highlighting the mechanisms involved in these anticancer activities. Among flavonoids, daidzein is a well-known isoflavone occurring in soybeans and soy products. In a certain part of population, this soy isoflavone is decomposed to equol under the action of gut microflora. Somewhat surprisingly, this degradation product has been shown to be more bioactive than its precursor daidzein, revealing a strong and multifaceted anticancer potential. In this way, it is important to bear in mind that the metabolic conversion of plant flavonoids might lead to products that are even more efficient than the parent compounds themselves, definitely deserving further studies.

Photoprotective effect of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives against ultra violet (UV)-B-Induced skin aging

Excessive exposure to sun can harm the skin, causing sunburn, photo-aging, and even skin cancer. Different benzylidene derivatives (A02-A18 and A19-A34) of 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid (A01) were designed and synthesized in an effort to discover photo-protective compounds against UV-B -induced skin aging. The synthesized derivatives were subjected to cellular viability test using MTT assay in primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDFs). The results indicate A01, A05, A15, A22, A23, A25, A26, A28, A29, A32, A33, and A34 significantly enhanced cell viability of HDFs. Compound A33 at 10 and 25 μM showed a significant photo-protective effect against UV-B (10 mJ/cm²) -induced damage in HDFs. A33 at 25 μM significantly restored the UV-B -induced damage via its potent anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic effects and ability to prevent collagen degradation. These findings pave the way for further development of A33 as a photo-protective skin agent.

Beneficial Effect of Gastrodia elata Blume and Poria cocos Wolf Administration on Acute UVB Irradiation by Alleviating Inflammation through Promoting the Gut-Skin Axis

Bioactive compounds in some herbs can, directly and indirectly, protect against photoaging. We evaluated the effects of Gastrodia elata Blume (GE) and Poria cocos Wolf (PC) water extracts on ultraviolet (UV) B-induced skin lesions by acute UVB exposure in ICR mice and explored their mechanism of action. After removing the hair on the back of the mice, UVB (280–310 nm) was exposed to the back for 30 min to induce skin damage. Four UVB exposure groups were divided into the following according to the local application (1,3-butanediol extract) on the dorsal skin and oral intake (0.3 g water extract/kg body weight/day): 1,3-butanediol and cellulose(control; UV-Con), retinoic acid (positive-control; UV-Positive), PC extracts (UV-PC), and GE extracts (UV-GE). The fifth group had no UVB exposure with the same treatment as the UV-Con (Normal-control). The erythema, burns, erosion, and wounds of the UV-PC and UV-PC groups were alleviated, and the most significant improvements occurred in the UV-PC group. PC and GE reduced the thickness of the dorsal skin tissue, the penetration of mast cells, and malondialdehyde contents. The mRNA expression of TNF-α, IL-13, and IL-4, inflammatory factors, were also reduced significantly in the dorsal skin of the UV-PC and UV-GE groups. UV-PC, UV-GE, and UV-Positive showed improvements in UV-induced intestinal tissue inflammation. UV-Con deteriorated the intestinal morphology, and PC and GE alleviated it. The α-diversity of the fecal microbiota decreased in the UV-control, and UV-PC and UV-GE prevented the decrease. Fecal metagenome analysis revealed increased propionate biosynthesis in the UV-PC group but decreased lipopolysaccharide biosynthesis in the UV-PC and UV-GE groups compared to UV-Con. In conclusion, the local application and intake of PC and GE had significant therapeutic effects on acute UV-induced skin damage by reducing oxidative stress and proinflammatory cytokines, potentially promoting the gut-microbiota-gut-skin axis.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

Modulation of autophagy, apoptosis and oxidative stress: a clue for repurposing metformin in photoaging

Long-term sun exposure is the commonest cause of photoaging, where mutual interplay between autophagy, oxidative stress, and apoptosis is incriminated. In combating photoaging, pharmacological approaches targeted to modulate autophagy are currently gaining more ground. This study aimed to examine repurposing metformin use in such context with or without the antioxidant coenzyme Q10 (coQ10) in ultraviolet A (UVA) irradiation-induced skin damage. The study was conducted on 70 female CD1 mice that were randomly assigned into seven groups (10/group): normal control, vehicle-treated-UVA-exposed mice, three metformin UVA-exposed groups (Topical 1 and 10%, and oral 300 mg/kg), topical coQ10 (1%)-treated mice, and combined oral metformin with topical coQ10-treated UVA-exposed mice. After UVA-exposure for 10 weeks (3 times/week), macroscopic signs of photoaging were evaluated. Mice were then euthanized, and the skin was harvested for biochemical estimation of markers for oxidative stress, inflammation, matrix breakdown, and lysosomal function. Histopathological signs of photoaging were also evaluated with immunohistochemical detection of associated changes in autophagic and apoptotic markers. Metformin, mainly by topical application, improved clinical and histologic signs of photoaging. This was associated with suppression of the elevated oxidative stress, IL-6, matrix metalloproteinase 1, and caspase, with induction of cathepsin D and subsequent change in anti-LC3 and P62 staining in skin tissue. In addition to metformin antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antiapoptotic activities, its anti-photoaging effect is mainly attributed to enhancing autophagic flux by inducing cathepsin D. Its protective effect is boosted by coQ10, which supports their potential use in photoaging.

Open-Label Study to Evaluate the Efficacy of a Topical Anhydrous Formulation with 15% Pure Ascorbic Acid and Ginger as a Potent Antioxidant

Vitamin C is one of the naturally occurring antioxidants capable of reducing or preventing skin photoaging. Achieving a stable formulation with the optimal dose of ascorbic acid to ensure a biologically significant antioxidant effect is a challenge when developing cosmetic formulations. The objective of this study was to develop a stable formula in a non-aqueous media with 15% pure vitamin C supplemented with ginger and to study its efficacy, skin tolerance, and cosmetic assessment in 33 women. Vitamin C stability over time was determined via a high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) technique versus an aqueous option. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) determination was quantified to provide antioxidant effect. A 56-day in vivo study was performed to evaluate skin luminosity and hyperpigmentation reduction. Skin acceptability was verified by a dermatologist. The HPLC studies demonstrated a high stability of the anhydrous formula compared to an aqueous option. The in vitro studies showed a reduction in ROS of 93% (p-value < 0.0001). In vivo, luminosity increased by 17% (p-value < 0.0001) and skin tone became 10% more uniform (p-value < 0.007). Moreover, very good skin tolerance was determined as the dermatologist did not determine any clinical signs, and the subjects did not report any feelings of discomfort. We were able to develop an anhydrous formula of pure vitamin C that combines very good stability, consumer acceptance, and skin tolerance with a high level of efficacy.

Explore the Multitarget Mechanism of Tetrahydrocurcumin preventing on UV-Induced Photoaging mouse skin

UV induced photoaging is the main external factor of skin aging. In this study, we tested the protective effects of tetrahydrocurcumin on UV-induced skin photoaging of KM mice and researched the multi-target mechanism through RNA sequencing technology. Mouse experiments show that tetrahydrocurcumin strongly changed in skin appearance, epidermal thickness, and wrinkle-related parameters in UV-irradiated mice. RNA-seq result show that we found 29 differentially expressed mRNA transcripts in UV mice relative to Ctrl rats (18 up-regulated and 11 down-regulated) and 7 significantly dysregulated mRNAs were obtained in the THC group compared to the UV group (1 up-regulated and 6 down-regulated), respectively. Spink7, Edn3, Stab2 may be the key target genes of tetrahydrocurcumin in preventing aging. Bioinformatics analysis shows that the response to muscle contraction and melanin biosynthetic GO term and Inflammation related pathway such as PPAR, MAPK would involve in effects of tetrahydrocurcumin. The results of this study indicated that tetrahydrocurcumin can improve the appearance through anti-inflammatory, improving extracellular matrix and inhibiting melanin production. It could be suggested as a protective measure in the prevention of UV-induced photoaging.

Bacterially Converted Oat Active Ingredients Enhances Antioxidative and Anti-UVB Photoaging Activities

Oat (Avena sativa L.) is one of the most widely consumed cereal grains worldwide and is considered as an important cereal crop with high nutritional value and potential health benefits. With different bacterial strains, fermented oat extracts were examined for the antioxidant and antiaging effects on the skin after optimization of extraction conditions. Fermented oats contained high avenanthramides, and its function was investigated on matrix metalloproteinase-1 and collagen expression with human dermal fibroblast cells. After fractionation, butanol layers showed the highest avenanthramides contents. Therefore, the microbial fermentation of oats enhances the quality and content of functional ingredients of oats, which provide natural dietary supplements, antioxidants, and antiaging agents.

The Prospects of Swietenia macrophylla King in Skin Care

The importance of cosmetics in our lives is immeasurable. Covering items from daily personal hygienic products to skincare, it has become essential to consumers that the items that they use are safe and effective. Since natural products are from natural sources, and therefore considered “natural” and “green” in the public’s eyes, the rise in demand for such products is not surprising. Even so, factoring in the need to remain on trend and innovative, cosmetic companies are on a constant search for new ingredients and inventive new formulations. Based on numerous literature, the seed of Swietenia macrophylla has been shown to possess several potential “cosmetic-worthy” bioproperties, such as skin whitening, photoprotective, antioxidant, antimicrobial, etc. These properties are vital in the cosmetic business, as they ultimately contribute to the “ageless” beauty that many consumers yearn for. Therefore, with further refinement and research, these active phytocompounds may be a great contribution to the cosmetic field in the near future.

Exploring the Role and Mechanism of Adipose Derived Mesenchymal Stem Cells on Reversal of Pigmentation Model Effects

Interventions for extrinsic aging can be implemented, but these must address photoaging, which is the primary cause of extrinsic aging. Pigmentation due to photoaging depends on the duration and intensity of sun exposure. This study investigated the relationship between adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (ASCs) and photoaging pigmentation, and the underlying mechanism of action by establishing a photoaging pigmentation model using various treatments and exposure options in a guinea pigs. The energy dose of each UVB irradiation was 120 mJ/cm² and the total dose of irradiation was 360 mJ/cm². After successfully establishing the photoaging model, ASCs (1×10⁶) in an balanced salt solution (0.9 ml), balanced salt solution (0.9 ml), and bFGF (9 μg) mixed with an balanced salt solution (0.9 ml) were injected intradermally in ten guinea pigs. ELISA, macroscopic skin and histological observations, and Masson-Fontana staining were done. At 2 and 4 weeks post-injection, noticeable changes were observed. Guinea pigs receiving ASCs injections displayed significantly lower visible skin scores while the melanin content continued to decrease. Somewhat improved histopathological morphology, including epidermal thinning, dermal thickening, and little inflammatory cell infiltration was observed immediately after and up to 4 weeks of ASCs injection. Melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) and alpha-melanocyte test hormone (alpha-MSH) levels reduced significantly, and basic fibroblast growth factor (bFGF) levels increased significantly immediately after and up to 4 weeks of ASCs injection. The MC1R and alpha-MSH levels reduced significantly immediately after and up to 4 weeks of bFGF injection. Briefly, intradermal ASCs injection can notably eliminate pigmentation in a guinea pig photoaging pigmentation model. This may be related to the fact that bFGF secreted by ASCs lowers MC1R and alpha-MSH levels, blocks the cAMP signalling pathway, and inhibits melanin synthesis. This finding may present new options for treating photoaging pigmentation.Level of Evidence: N/A.

Coffee by-products as the source of antioxidants: a systematic review

Background: Solid waste from coffee depulping process threatens the organism in environment as it produces organic pollutants. Evidence suggested that coffee by-product could valorize owing to its potential as antioxidant sources. The aim of this systematic review was to evaluate antioxidant activity of coffee by-products obtained from different coffee variants (arabica and robusta) and processing methods.

Methods: The systematic review was conducted as of May 29, 2021 for records published within the last ten years (2011–2021) using seven databases: Embase, Medline, BMJ, Web of Science, Science Direct, Cochrane, and PubMed. Data on type of specimen, processing methods, and antioxidant activities were collected based on PRISMA guidelines.

Results: Our data suggested that aqueous extract was found to be the most common processing method used to obtain the antioxidant from various coffee by-products, followed by methanol and ethanol extract. A variety of antioxidant properties ranging from strong to low activity was found depending on the variety, type of coffee by-products (cascara, pulp, husk, silverskin, and parchment), and processing technique. Fermentation employing proper bacteria was found effective in improving the yield of bioactive compounds resulting in higher antioxidant capacity. Applications in feedstuffs, foods, beverages, and topical formulation are among the potential utilization of coffee by-products.

Conclusion: Coffee by-products contain bioactive compounds possessing antioxidant properties which could be used as additives in foods, beverages, and cosmetics. In particular, their benefits in skin care products require further investigation.

Ethanolic Fenugreek Extract: Its Molecular Mechanisms against Skin Aging and the Enhanced Functions by Nanoencapsulation

Fenugreek, or Trigonella foenum-graecum L. (family Leguminosae) seeds, are typically used as food supplements to increase postnatal lactation. Fenugreek extract displays antioxidative and anti-inflammatory properties, but its mechanisms against skin aging have not been exploited. In this research, we are the first to define an in vitro collagenase inhibitory activity of fenugreek extract (IC₅₀ = 0.57 ± 0.02 mg/mL), which is 2.6 times more potent than vitamin C (IC₅₀ = 1.46 mg/mL). Nanoencapsulation has been applied to improve the extract stability, and subsequently enhanced its bioactivities. Liponiosome encapsulating fenugreek extract (LNF) was prepared using a high-speed homogenizer, resulting in homogeneous spherical nanoparticles with sizes in the range of 174.7 ± 49.2 nm, 0.26 ± 0.04 in PdI, and 46.6 ± 7.4% of entrapment efficiency. LNF formulation significantly facilitated a sustained release and significantly enhanced skin penetration over the extracts, suggesting a potential use of LNF for transdermal delivery. The formulated LNF was highly stable, not toxic to human fibroblast, and was able to enhance cell viability, collagen production, and inhibit MMP1, MMP9, IL-6, and IL-8 secretions compared to the extract in the co-cultured skin model. Therefore, ethanolic fenugreek extract and its developed LNF display molecular mechanisms against skin aging and could potentially be used as an innovative ingredient for the prevention of skin aging.

Skin Changes and Safety Profile of Topical Products During Pregnancy

OBJECTIVE

We sought to know the efficacy and safety profile of topical products for use during pregnancy.

METHODS

We used PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane Library to review literature on topical products and pregnancy.

RESULTS

A majority of pregnant women develop skin changes, including physiological or hormonal changes, worsening of preexisting skin conditions, or the appearance of new dermatoses during pregnancy. Most pregnant women are concerned about the availability of treatments options with good safety profiles, especially for skin and hair treatments, to maintain their appearance and health. Although most of the treatments are recommended to be used after delivery, there are some alternatives to prevent and treat skin lesions during pregnancy.

CONCLUSION

The most current and comprehensive information about the efficacy and safety profile of topical products in pregnancy are necessary.

Polyphenol derived bioactive carbon quantum dots incorporated multifunctional hydrogel as oxidative stress attenuator for antiaging and in vivo wound-healing applications

Upregulation of certain enzymes, such as collagenase, tyrosinase, and elastase, is triggered by several extrinsic environmental factors, such as temperature, UV radiation, humidity, and stress, and leads to elasticity loss...

Herbal products as skincare therapeutic agents against ultraviolet radiation-induced skin disorders

This paper aims to highlight the pharmacological aspects of listed herbal skincare products used for the treatment of various disorders caused due to ultraviolet radiation. The pharmacological aspects include safety and efficacy validation as per regulatory guidelines following internationally accepted scientific principles for their development of skincare products. Herbal products have always been used traditionally for the treatment of various skin ailments and have become more prevalent because of their safety and high efficacy benefits. The incorporation of synthetic molecules and chemical substances in the different medicinal and pharmaceutical formulations is the leading cause of the dermal toxicity. Therefore, the developments of herbal skincare products containing scientifically validated herbal ingredients have better acceptance, respect, and belief in the society. The listed herbal products in this review can help take forward the commercial development of skincare products for therapeutic as well as beauty care purposes from such plants.

Methoxy-Monobenzoylmethane Protects Skin from UV-Induced Damages in a Randomized, Placebo Controlled, Double-Blinded Human In Vivo Study and Prevents Signs of Inflammation While Improving the Skin Barrier

Introduction

Sun protection is important in skin care and requires special attention as inefficient protection might trigger skin pathologies including polymorphic light eruption (PLE). The reduce-improve-protect (RIP) concept to avoid the onset of ultraviolet (UV) irradiation-induced diseases or damage to human skin is important. Methoxy-monobenzoylmethane (MeO-MBM), which is neither a UVB nor a UVA filter, converts to the UV filter avobenzone under UV irradiation and further acts as a photoantioxidant during its conversion process and initially as an antioxidant material. The aim of this study was to understand the mechanisms by which MeO-MBM improves the condition of UV-stressed skin through its photoantioxidant properties. The improvement of the skin condition by the activity of MeO-MBM as active ingredient was also investigated.

Methods

Potential molecular targets were identified by in silico docking to numerous cellular membrane receptors on the cell surface or nuclear membrane, followed by microarray analysis of 164 genes after MeO-MBM treatment of normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK). We conducted randomized, double-blinded, intra-individual comparison vs. placebo studies on ten volunteers, aged between 34 and 65 years, to assess the effect of MeO-MBM in vivo. The effect after UV-induced inflammation was assessed in a protective and curative set-up with 2% MeO-MBM vs. 1% hydrocortisone and placebo based on the change in blood flow. The barrier function of the skin was assessed by the change in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin scaling and skin thickness after the treatment with MeO-MBM. Additionally, the effect of MeO-MBM after UV-induced stress on the activation of ferritin in human explants was determined ex vivo.

Results

A docking simulation of MeO-MBM showed a potential interaction with the retinoic acid receptor gamma and further revealed downregulation of proteins related to inflammation. In the protective treatment set-up, after 24 h MeO-MBM significantly reduced the delta blood flow compared to placebo, while this reduction was more prominent with hydrocortisone. In the curative treatment set-up, a greater reduction in delta blood flow was also observed with MeO-MBM compared to placebo and similar to hydrocortisone. Treatment with MeO-MBM revealed an improvement in skin barrier function as a result of decreased TEWL, reduced skin scaling and increased skin thickness. Immunohistochemistry staining of ferritin on human skin explants further showed that the treatment with MeO-MBM reduced the ferritin expression.

Conclusion

Based on these results, MeO-MBM is capable of exerting an anti-aging activity via the retinoic acid receptor gamma. Its anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activity manifested via the downregulation of multiple anti-inflammatory genes as well as the reduction of ferritin in skin tissue. This study shows that the multidimensional functionality of MeO-MBM offers an effective approach to combat acute and chronic deleterious effects of oxidative UV damage while simultaneously enhancing the skin barrier function.

Structural and Functional Changes and Possible Molecular Mechanisms in Aged Skin

Skin aging is a complex process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Together, these factors affect the structure and function of the epidermis and dermis. Histologically, aging skin typically shows epidermal atrophy due to decreased cell numbers. The dermis of aged skin shows decreased numbers of mast cells and fibroblasts. Fibroblast senescence contributes to skin aging by secreting a senescence-associated secretory phenotype, which decreases proliferation by impairing the release of essential growth factors and enhancing degradation of the extracellular matrix through activation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs). Several molecular mechanisms affect skin aging including telomere shortening, oxidative stress and MMP, cytokines, autophagic control, microRNAs, and the microbiome. Accumulating evidence on the molecular mechanisms of skin aging has provided clinicians with a wide range of therapeutic targets for treating aging skin.

Amino acid complex (AAComplex) benefits in cosmetic products: In vitro and in vivo clinical studies

Background

Amino acids are major components of skin's natural moisturizing factors and play a role in regulating skin hydration and skin pH.

Objective

This research examines a proprietary amino acid complex technology (AAComplex) designed to help reduce skin irritation and repair skin damage.

Methods

In‐ vitro Scratch Assay

HaCaT cells are scratched, and the wounds are imaged at different time points until the closure of the scratch wound is detected.

Results

In‐ vitro Scratch Assay

The AAComplex demonstrated a strong cell renewal benefit in the HaCaT (human) cells scratch assay.

Conclusion

The in vitro and in vivo clinical studies demonstrated that the AAComplex technology formulated in the commercially available Skin Recovery System effectively reduced skin irritation and redness as well as accelerating the skin repair process.

Anti-Photoaging and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Ginsenoside Rk3 During Exposure to UV Irradiation

Ginseng is a widely cultivated perennial plant in China and Korea. Ginsenoside Rk3 is one of the major active components of ginseng and is a promising candidate to regulate skin pigments and exert anti-photoaging effects on skin physiology. Ginsenoside Rk3 was mixed with a cream (G-Rk3 cream) and smeared on the skin of mice. Then, the mice were exposed to ultraviolet (UV) A (340 nm and 40 W) and UVB (313 nm and 40 W) radiation. Special attention was given to the anti-photoaging and anti-inflammatory effects of ginsenoside Rk3 on the mouse skin. Macroscopic evaluation indicated that the mouse dorsal skin looked smooth and plump even under UV irradiation for 12 weeks. Pathological analysis indicated that there was no obvious photoaging or inflammation in the mouse skin that was treated with the G-Rk3 cream. More healthy, intact, and neat collagen fibers were observed in mice treated with the G-Rk3 cream than in untreated mice. Further analysis proved that ginsenoside Rk3 could inhibit the decrease in water and hydroxyproline levels in skin tissues and the loss of superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase activities in the blood. Moreover, ginsenoside Rk3 slowed or halted increases in malondialdehyde, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, and MMP-3 levels in the blood and levels of interleukin 1, interleukin 6, and tumor necrosis factor α in skin tissues. In conclusion, ginsenoside Rk3 plays a significant role in inhibiting photoaging and inflammation to protect skin health.

Modulation of Photoaging-Induced Cutaneous Elastin: Evaluation of Gene and Protein Expression of Markers Related to Elastogenesis Under Different Photoexposure Conditions

INTRODUCTION

Photoaging is the process by which ultraviolet rays gradually induce clinical and histological changes in the skin through the production and organization of biological molecules, such as elastin, which is critical to skin strength and elasticity. After exposure to radiation, elastin may undergo alternative mRNA splicing, resulting in modified proteins that contribute to the formation of aging characteristics, such as solar elastosis. The present work aimed to study two different forms of elastin under these conditions: normal elastin and elastin that had been altered in exon 26A.

METHODS

These different forms of elastin were characterized for gene expression by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) and for protein expression by immunohistochemistry of ex vivo skins (from photoexposed and non-photoexposed areas) and in vitro reconstituted skin. In addition, up- and downstream molecules in the elastin signaling cascade were evaluated.

RESULTS

As a result, a significant increase in the gene expression of elastin 26A was observed in both ex vivo photoexposed skin tissues and the in vitro photoexposed reconstituted skins. Additionally, significant increases in the gene expression levels of matrix metalloproteinase-12 (MMP12) and lysyl oxidase (LOX) were observed in the ex vivo skin model. The evaluation of protein expression levels of some photoaging markers on the reconstituted skin revealed increased tropoelastin and fibrillin-1 expression after photoexposure.

CONCLUSION

This work contributes to a better understanding of the biological mechanisms involved in photoaging, making it possible to obtain new strategies for the development of dermocosmetic active ingredients to prevent and treat skin aging.

Thin-layer hydration method to prepare a green tea extract niosomal gel and its antioxidant performance

This study aimed to prepare a niosomal gel of green tea (Camellia sinensis) extract containing catechins, mostly epigallocatechin-3-gallate (ECGC), as a potent antioxidant. Niosomes can increase EGCG's stability and penetration into the skin for a better therapeutic effect. Niosomes were prepared by a thin-layer hydration method, were evaluated for their vesicle shape, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and entrapment efficiency, and then incorporated into gels using sodium alginate as a gelling agent. Three niosomal gel formulations were prepared with different concentrations of niosomes green tea extract. Afterwards, organoleptic properties, chemical and physical characteristics, antioxidant activity, and stability and irritability of the niosomal gels were investigated. The different concentrations of green tea extract had a significant effect on the physical characteristics, but not on the chemical ones. Its antioxidant activity was determined using the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) scavenging method. The 50% extract green tea niosomes gel showed the highest inhibition value (25.13%). The stability was determined by freeze–thaw and real-time methods; they showed a decrease in pH, but still within the pH range of skin. The irritability test used was the Hen's Egg Test-Chorioallantoic Membrane (HET-CAM) method, which showed no irritation for all formulas. In conclusion, 50% green tea extract niosomes gel results showed it to be the best formulation with optimal antioxidant results.

Study of Carnosine's effect on nude mice skin to prevent UV-A damage

The skin is an important barrier against external attacks from bacteria, radicals, or radiations. UV-A radiations cause significant impairment of this barrier, inducing inflammation, oxidative stress, and wrinkle formation, thereby promoting photoaging. Previous studies reported that carnosine, a potent antioxidant, and carbonyl scavenger agent, may prevent photoaging features in the skin of hairless mice exposed to UV-A radiations. In the present study, we used a quantitative proteomic approach to analyze the changes evoked by carnosine in the skin proteome of hairless mice exposed to UV-A. This approach allowed to quantify more than 2480 proteins, among them consistent differences were observed for 89 proteins in UV-A exposed vs control unexposed skins, and 252 proteins in UV-A-exposed skin preventively treated by carnosine (UVAC) vs UV-A. Several functional pathways were altered in the skins of UV-A exposed hairless mice, including the integrin-linked kinase, calcium signaling, fibrogenesis, cell migration and filament formation. An impairment of mitochondrial function and metabolism was observed, with an up-regulation of cytochrome C oxidase 6B1 and NADH: ubiquinone oxidoreductase S8. Skins pre-treated by carnosine were prevented from UV-A induced proteome alterations. In conclusion, our study emphasizes the potency of a proteomic approach to identify the consequences of UV radiations in the skins, and points out the capacity of carnosine to prevent the alterations of skin proteome evoked by UV-A.

Antioxidant Activity and Anti-Photoaging Effects on UVA-Irradiated Human Fibroblasts of Rosmarinic Acid Enriched Extract Prepared from Thunbergia laurifolia Leaves

The current study investigated the inhibiting effect on reactive oxygen species (ROS), reactive nitrogen species (RNS), and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production in a cell-based study of standardized rosmarinic acid enriched extract (SRAEE) prepared from Thunbergia laurifolia leaves. HPLC chromatogram revealed that rosmarinic acid is a major component in prepared SRAEE, followed by caffeic acid. SRAEE exhibited antioxidant activity both in vitro and cell-based studies. SRAEE showed scavenging effects on nitric oxide and superoxide anion and inhibition effects on lipid peroxidation in vitro. SRAEE also inhibited ROS and MMP-1 production in normal human dermal fibroblast cells induced by H₂O₂ and UVA, respectively, without exerted cytotoxicity. Additionally, collagen degradation was protected by SRAEE induced by UVA. Nitric oxide and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) productions were also inhibited by SRAEE in RAW264.7 mouse macrophage cells induced by combined lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-interferon-γ (IFN-γ). The results indicated that SRAEE is a potential candidate as a natural pharmaceutical active ingredient for cosmeceutical product application.

Drug-induced photosensitivity: culprit drugs, potential mechanisms and clinical consequences

Drug‐induced photosensitivity, the development of phototoxic or photoallergic reactions due to pharmaceuticals and subsequent exposure to ultraviolet or visible light, is an adverse effect of growing interest. This is illustrated by the broad spectrum of recent investigations on the topic, ranging from molecular mechanisms and culprit drugs through epidemiological as well as public health related issues to long‐term photoaging and potential photocarcinogenic consequences. The present review summarizes the current state of knowledge on the topic while focusing on culprit drugs and long‐term effects. In total, 393 different drugs or drug compounds are reported to have a photosensitizing potential, although the level of evidence regarding their ability to induce photosensitive reactions varies markedly among these agents. The pharmaceuticals of interest belong to a wide variety of drug classes. The epidemiological risk associated with the use of photosensitizers is difficult to assess due to under‐reporting and geographical differences. However, the widespread use of photosensitizing drugs combined with the potential photocarcinogenic effects reported for several agents has major implications for health and safety and suggests a need for further research on the long‐term effects.

Antioxidant and anti-aging carbon quantum dots using tannic acid

Overexpression of collagenase, elastase, and tyrosinase is caused by external factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and stress, resulting in wrinkle formation and freckles through the loss of skin elasticity and skin pigmentation. In this study, we developed novel carbon quantum dots (CQDs) with antioxidant and anti-aging properties using tannic acid as a carbon source through a simple microwave-assisted pyrolysis method. The synthesized tannic acid-derived CQDs (T-CQDs) showed bright blue fluorescence (QY = 28.2 ± 4.0%), exhibiting maximum emission at 430 nm under 350 nm excitation. Even though small amount of the T-CQDs (3μg ml^-1) was used, they exhibited excellent free radical scavenging ability (82.8 ± 4.3%). Also, the T-CQDs (10μg ml^-1) revealed remarkable inhibitory activity against skin aging-related collagenase (77.6 ± 4.8%), elastase (52.6 ± 1.0%), and tyrosinase (44.2 ± 1.3%), demonstrating their antioxidant and anti-aging effects. Furthermore, their antioxidant and anti-aging properties were superior to those of tannic acid, L-ascorbic acid, and quercetin used as positive controls. Finally, the T-CQDs effectively suppressed UV-induced reactive oxygen species generation by 30% at the cellular levels and showed high cell viability (99.7 ± 0.8%) even at 500μg ml^-1. These results demonstrate that the T-CQDs with superior antioxidant, anti-aging properties, and low cytotoxicity can be utilized as novel anti-aging materials in cosmetic and nanomedicine fields.

Corneal Cross-Linking: The Evolution of Treatment for Corneal Diseases

Corneal cross-linking (CXL) using riboflavin and ultraviolet A (UVA) light has become a useful treatment option for not only corneal ectasias, such as keratoconus, but also a number of other corneal diseases. Riboflavin is a photoactivated chromophore that plays an integral role in facilitating collagen crosslinking. Modifications to its formulation and administration have been proposed to overcome shortcomings of the original epithelium-off Dresden CXL protocol and increase its applicability across various clinical scenarios. Hypoosmolar riboflavin formulations have been used to artificially thicken thin corneas prior to cross-linking to mitigate safety concerns regarding the corneal endothelium, whereas hyperosmolar formulations have been used to reduce corneal oedema when treating bullous keratopathy. Transepithelial protocols incorporate supplementary topical medications such as tetracaine, benzalkonium chloride, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and trometamol to disrupt the corneal epithelium and improve corneal penetration of riboflavin. Further assistive techniques include use of iontophoresis and other wearable adjuncts to facilitate epithelium-on riboflavin administration. Recent advances include, Photoactivated Chromophore for Keratitis-Corneal Cross-linking (PACK-CXL) for treatment of infectious keratitis, customised protocols (CurV) utilising riboflavin coupled with customised UVA shapes to induce targeted stiffening have further induced interest in the field. This review aims to examine the latest advances in riboflavin and UVA administration, and their efficacy and safety in treating a range of corneal diseases. With such diverse riboflavin delivery options, CXL is well primed to complement the armamentarium of therapeutic options available for the treatment of a variety of corneal diseases.

Coffee pulp supplement affects antioxidant status and favors anti-aging of skin in healthy subjects

BACKGROUND

Coffee and coffee products are known potentially to reduce levels of oxidative stress biomarkers in humans.

OBJECTIVE

This investigation evaluates the effects of coffee pulp extract as a functional supplement (in coffee pulp drink, CPD) and a cosmetic ingredient (coffee pulp serum, CPS).

PATIENTS/METHODS

The effects of CPD and CPS for anti-oxidation and anti-aging were investigated. Forty subjects were randomly allocated to CPD or placebo drink groups (50 ml of a CPD/placebo drink daily for 8 weeks for each subject), and another 40 subjects were recruited to CPS or placebo serum groups (about 3 ml of a CPS/placebo serum day and night/daily for 4 weeks for each subject) in a double-blind study.

RESULTS

The CPD and CPS (20%) can increase free radical scavenging activities by 93.3% and 85% (p < 0.001) for DPPH, 94.5% and 61.3% (p < 0.01) for ABTS·⁺ , 43.8% and 15.3% (p < 0.05) for NO· than placebo. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity was increased by 91.6% and 51.0% (p < 0.05) after CPD and CPS application. The CPD comprehensively improved the moisture, brightness, elasticity, spotting, texture, and collagen content of skin for most subjects after 8 weeks, relative to the baseline without treatment (p < 0.05). After 4 weeks of CPS serum consumption, the brightness, elasticity, spotting, UV spots, and collagen content of skin were slightly better than those at week 0 (p < 0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The daily consumption of coffee pulp extract products can slow the skin aging process and improve skin health.