Natural personal care products-analysis of ingredient lists and legal situation

Non-Target Screening of Chemicals in Selected Cotton Products by GC/MS and Their Safety Assessment

Cotton is used for the production of textiles, hygiene and cosmetic materials. During cultivation and technological processes, various types of substances (surfactants, softeners, lubricants, etc.) penetrate cotton, which can have a harmful effect on both the human body and the environment. The aim of this study was to analyze selected cotton products in order to identify the substances contained and to describe the potential possibilities of inducing textile contact dermatitis (CD). The impact of the identified compounds on the aquatic environment was also taken into account. Nine samples of cotton clothing and seven samples of cotton pads from various manufacturers were tested. Samples after extraction using the FUSLE (Focused Ultrasonic Liquid Extraction) technique were analyzed with GC/MS. Qualitative analysis was based on comparing mass spectra with library spectra using the following mass spectra deconvolution programs: MassHunter (Agilent), AMDIS (NIST), and PARADISE (University of Copenhagen). The parameter confirming the identification of the substance was the retention index. Through the non-target screening process, a total of 36 substances were identified, with an average AMDIS match factor of approximately 900 ("excellent match"). Analyzing the properties of the identified compounds, it can be concluded that most of them have potential properties that can cause CD, also due to the relatively high content in samples. This applies primarily to long-chain alkanes (C25-C31), saturated fatty acids, fatty alcohols (e.g., oleyl alcohol), and fatty acid amides (e.g., oleamide). However, there are not many reports describing cases of cotton CD. Information on the identified groups of compounds may be helpful in the case of unexplained sources of sensitization when the skin comes into contact with cotton materials. Some of the identified compounds are also classified as dangerous for aquatic organisms, especially if they can be released during laundering.

Inhalation of VOCs from facial moisturizers and the influence of dose proximity

Volatile organic compound (VOC) emissions from personal care products (PCPs) contribute to poor indoor air quality. Exposure to indoor VOCs is typically determined through ambient concentration measurements; however, for some PCPs the proximity of use to the nose and mouth may lead to disproportionately large inhaled doses. In this paper, we quantify emission factors for six common PCP ingredient VOCs (ethanol, 2-propanol, benzyl alcohol, 1,3-butanediol, t-butyl alcohol, and the grouping of monoterpenes as limonene) from 16 facial day-moisturizers using headspace analysis and selected ion flow-tube mass spectrometry. A wide range of emissions rates were observed across the range of products tested (e.g., ethanol 3.3-6.9 × 10²  µg s^-1  g_[product]^-1 , limonene 1.3 × 10^-1 -4.1 × 10^-1  µg s^-1  g_[product]^-1 ). We use a mannequin head with reconstructed nose and mouth airways to sample VOCs from facial application at typical respiration volumes. A single facial application of moisturizer can lead to a much larger inhaled VOC dose than would be inhaled from typical indoor ambient air over 24 h (e.g., limonene up to ~×16 greater via facial application, ethanol up to ~×300). Emissions from facially applied PCPs typically decayed to background concentrations over periods ranging from 5 to 150 min.

Fragrance, Sunscreens, Botanicals, and Potential Allergens in Bestseller 'Fairness' Creams in the Indian Market: A Consumer Exposure Study

Background

The skin lightening industry has seen exponential growth in India. Consumers often present to the dermatologist with adverse cutaneous reactions to these 'fairness' (skin lightening) creams. The composition of these creams has not received sufficient attention.

Objective

To identify fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens in the bestseller 'fairness' creams available in the Indian market.

Methods

Twenty fairness (or whitening or lightening) creams were selected based on the 'bestseller' creams of one of the largest electronic commerce websites in India, and availability in local stores and unlabelled brands were excluded. Fragrance, sunscreens, botanicals and potential allergens were identified from the ingredient labels.

Results

Twenty bestseller fairness creams were included. The number of the listed ingredients in the fairness creams ranged from 6 to 49 (mean = 32.2). The most frequently listed ingredients included water, fragrance or parfum, glycerin, tocopherol/tocopherylacetate and titanium dioxide. Hydroquinone, monobenzyl hydroquinone, corticosteroids, tretinoin and mercury were not listed in any of the creams. Unspecified fragrance was listed in 19 (95%) creams and linalool (8,40%) was the most frequent specified fragrance. Titanium dioxide (14, 70 %) was the most common inorganic sunscreen and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 creams or 60% of creams) was the most common organic sunscreen. Twenty-seven botanicals were identified. Eight ingredients were potential allergens according to the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. The cost of the creams ranged from 95 to 1,095 in Indian rupees (mean 300.5).

Conclusions

Consumers are exposed to a vast range of compounds in the quest for a lighter skin tone. Several potential allergens, particularly fragrance allergens, are present in addition to the eight allergens that were identified with the Indian Cosmetic and Fragrance Series. Increased awareness of the composition of skin lightening creams available in the market and strict regulation of these creams is needed.

Potential health risks of metals in skin care products used by Chinese consumers aged 19-29 years

Metal contamination of skin care products that occurs during their production poses potential health risks, which are of increasing concern, to consumers. Here, we collected 570 responses to an online survey to analyze the usage pattern of skin care products across China. Then a total of 30 commonly used skin care products with various prices and applications were purchased. The concentrations of metals (Al, Zn, Cu, Ni, Cr, Pb, Hg, and Cd) and metalloid As, were determined. Next, we improved the frequency calculation method and used the weighted exposure frequency to calculate the dermal absorption dose (DAD). The amounts of Zn, Cr, and Al that were assimilated by the human body via uptake were approximately 2 orders of magnitude greater than those of Pb, Hg, Cd, Ni and metalloid As. In addition, younger consumers were at higher risk of metals exposure than older consumers because of their higher frequency of use of skin care products. Al and Zn posed higher risk to consumers because of its high DAD. There was no significant chronic non-carcinogenic health risk (hazard index < 1) posed by skincare product use.

Ubiquity, Hazardous Effects, and Risk Assessment of Fragrances in Consumer Products

Purpose of review

The main aims of fragrances are to create pleasing scents or to mask unpleasant odors. We hereby review their main exposure sources, presumed benefits, and unwanted effects, with special attention to allergic contact dermatitis (prevalence, regulatory environment, risk assessment methodology, and preventive measures).

Recent findings

Fragrances elicit positive emotions and presumably have therapeutic benefits related to stress reduction and memory enhancement. However, they also cause detrimental health or environmental effects including contact dermatitis (irritant and/or allergic), non-eczematous contact reactions, photosensitivity, photo-allergy, and immediate contact reactions, which can negatively impact the quality of life. Fragrances are the most frequent chemicals causing contact dermatitis. Their main sources are cosmetics, household products, industrial substances, food flavorings, oral hygiene products, and topical medications. It is difficult for sensitized patients to avoid contact with fragrances, due to their ubiquity and because manufacturers are not willing to volunteer information regarding fragrance ingredients.

Summary

The treatment of contact dermatitis relies on allergens avoidance which does not “cure” the disease (sensitization persists for life) but prevents disabling illness. The patient should understand that avoiding perfume means to avoid all scented goods and not just perfumes.

Labeling fragrances is key in primary prevention (by giving the healthy individual the chance to make an informed choice to avoid risky substances), diagnosis (by helping the practitioner to plan and interpret patch tests), secondary prevention, and prognosis (by allowing the sensitized patient to follow the avoidance instructions). However, only 26 fragrances are mandatory to be declared in cosmetics. The vague labeling of other fragrance ingredients as “perfume” or “fragrance” hampers the diagnostic and preventive approaches. Therefore, in our opinion, declaration should be mandatory for all fragrance ingredients as well as straightforward so most consumers can understand it. Moreover, legislation should be improved to prevent inappropriately high exposures by forbidding stronger allergens, restricting maximum concentrations in the finished product or fields of application, delivering information regarding the risks to the general public, and controlling the compliance of manufacturers with the regulations. Besides, manufacturers should share information regarding the composition in the final products and provide physicians with samples of all fragrance chemicals whenever needed for patch test investigations.

Seaweeds Compounds: An Ecosustainable Source of Cosmetic Ingredients?

Seaweed-based cosmetics are being gradually used by consumers as a substitute of synthetic equivalent products. These seaweed-based products normally contain purified compounds or extracts with several compounds. Several seaweeds’ molecules already demonstrated a high potential as a cosmetic active ingredient (such as, mycosporine-like amino acids, fucoidan, pigments, phenolic compounds) or as a key element for the products consistency (agar, alginate, carrageenan). Moreover, seaweeds’ compounds present important qualities for cosmetic application, such as low cytotoxicity and low allergens content. However, seaweeds’ biochemical profile can be variable, and the extraction methods can cause the loss of some of the biomolecules. This review gives a general look at the seaweed cosmetics benefits and its current application in the cosmetic industry. Moreover, it focuses on the ecological and sustainable scope of seaweed exploitation to guarantee a safe source of ingredients for the cosmetic industry and consumers.

Inhibition of melanogenesis by Aster yomena callus pellet extract in melanoma cells and patients with skin pigmentation

Plant tissue culture holds immense potential for the production of secondary metabolites with various physiological functions. We recently established a plant tissue culture system capable of producing secondary metabolites from Aster yomena. This study aimed to uncover the mechanisms underlying the potential therapeutic effects of Aster yomena callus pellet extract (AYC-P-E) on photoaging-induced skin pigmentation. Excessive melanogenesis was induced in B16F10 melanoma cells using α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH). The effects of AYC-P-E treatment on melanin biosynthesis inducers and melanin synthesis inhibition were assessed. Based on the results, a clinical study was conducted in subjects with skin pigmentation. AYC-P-E inhibited melanogenesis in α-MSH-treated B16F10 cells, accompanied by decreased mRNA and protein expression of melanin biosynthesis inducers, including cyclic AMP response element-binding protein (CREB), tyrosinase, microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. This anti-melanogenic effect was mediated by mitogen-activated protein kinase (MEK)/extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and protein kinase B (AKT) phosphorylation. Treatment of subjects with skin pigmentation with AYC-P-E-containing cream formulations resulted in 3.33%, 7.06%, and 8.68% improvement in the melanin levels at 2, 4, and 8 weeks, respectively. Our findings suggest that AYC-P-E inhibits excessive melanogenesis by activating MEK/ERK and AKT signaling, potentiating its cosmetic applications in hyperpigmentation treatment.

Risk communication for labeling all ingredients in consumer products

The labeling of all ingredients contained in consumer products has been requested by consumers concerned regarding their safety. Consequently, regulatory agencies have set guidelines for industries on how to provide safety information regarding the ingredients in their products. However, discordant opinions were raised from stakeholders, resulting in the formation of a risk communication forum among industries, regulatory agencies, consumer groups, and academia. There are several methods that might be utilized to provide ingredient information to consumers: (1) listing all ingredients on the label of products, (2) providing major ingredients on the label of products, (3) presenting all ingredients on the websites of each manufacturer, and (4) listing major ingredients on the label of products and the remainder of ingredients (not on the label) on the websites. Each method might have its own advantages and disadvantages with respect to providing the information regarding the names of the ingredients used in consumer products to the consumers. A continuous risk communication forum might be an effective tool to facilitate an improved understanding of chemical information, toxicological science, regulatory guidelines, labeling methods, and consumers' concern. This study suggests that risk communication efforts may be helpful and a good opportunity for stakeholders to exchange opinions and reach a harmonious conclusion on labeling of consumer products ingredients.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Development of Multifunctional Cosmetic Cream Using Bioactive Materials from Streptomyces sp. T65 with Synthesized Mesoporous Silica Particles SBA-15

Various cosmetics having a single function are increasingly being used, but cosmetics having multifunctional activities remain limited. We aimed to develop a multifunctional cosmetic cream having antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging and antimicrobial activities. Antimicrobial activities were performed by disc-diffusion method. Cell toxicity and cell proliferations were evaluated in a 96-well plate with different cell lines such as HaCaT, RAW264.7, CCD-986Sk, B16F1, and B16F10. Mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, elastase inhibition, and 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activities were evaluated and IC₅₀ was calculated. Mesoporous silica particle was synthesized using Pluronic P123 and tetraethyl ortho-silicate (TEOS). Facial pictures were captured by VISIA-CR (Facial Imaging System for Clinical Research). Roughness of image was analysed by PRIMOS software and brightness of image was analyzed by Chromameter CR-400. The crude product of strain T65 inhibited the different human pathogenic bacteria such as Bacillus subtilis, Escherichia coli, Propionibacterium acnes, Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Staphylococcus epidermidis. The IC₅₀ of T65 crude product for mushroom tyrosinase, elastase, and DPPH radical scavenging activities were 58.73, 14.68, and 6.31 µg/mL, respectively. T65 crude product proliferated collagen type I in CCD-986Sk cell up to 145.91% ± 9.11% (mean ± SD; mean of 24, 48, and 72 h) at 250 pg/mL. Synthesized mesoporous particles (SBA-15) confirmed the sustainable performance by control-release for three days. Formulated functional cosmetic cream containing T65 embedded SBA-15, significantly decreased the skin roughness by 4.670% and increased the skin brightness by 0.472% after application of 4 weeks. T65 crude product inhibited both Gram-positive and Gram-negative pathogens. Synthesized mesoporous particle, SBA-15, confirmed the physiologically active substance was released in sustainable release condition. T65 crude product showed impeccable antimicrobial, antioxidant, anti-aging, and whitening activities with non-cytotoxic effects to different cell lines related to the human skin.

Interested consumers' awareness of harmful chemicals in everyday products

BACKGROUND

Everyday products can contain a multitude of harmful substances unnoticed by most consumers, because established risk communication channels reach only part of the society. The question is, whether at least interested and informed consumers are able to use risk communication tools and assess harmful chemicals in products.

RESULTS

An online survey investigated the awareness of 1030 consumers on harmful substances in everyday items. Participating consumers' education level, knowledge in chemistry, and motivation were above society's average. Although a large number of responses showed that survey participants were familiar with several aspects of the issue, the results revealed that knowledge in chemistry helped, but was not enough. Many participants assumed that products with an eco-label, natural personal care products, products without hazard pictograms or products produced in the European Union would not contain harmful substances. Most participants indicated to use hazard pictograms, information on the packaging, reports in the media, and environmental and consumer organizations as information sources, while information by authorities and manufacturers were not named frequently and did not receive high confidence. Smartphone applications were not indicated by many participants as information sources. The information sources most trusted were environmental and consumer organizations, hazard pictograms, and lists of ingredients on the containers. The declared confidence in certain risk communication instruments did not always correspond to the use frequencies indicated. Nearly all participants considered legislators as responsible for the reduction of harmful substances in consumer products.

CONCLUSIONS

Misconceptions about harmful substances in products can be dangerous for the personal health and the environment. The survey indicates that motivation, educational level, and chemical expertise do not automatically provide an appropriate understanding of harmful substances in products. If well-informed consumers are not sufficiently capable to use risk information elements as revealed in this study, then this will be even more the case for the general public. Consumer awareness should be stipulated by an improved information strategy about chemical risks in consumer products with an extensive participation of the target groups and by more efforts by authorities and manufactures to build trust and to provide easily understandable information.