Photostability and interaction of ascorbic acid in cream formulations

Prospective randomized double-blind comparative study of topical acetyl zingerone with tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate versus tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate alone on facial photoaging

BACKGROUND

Tetrahexydecyl ascorbate (THDA) is a lipophilic precursor to ascorbic acid that may be stabilized by acetyl zingerone (AZ). Studies have shown that the topical application of THDA may have photoprotective effects. Similarly, AZ has been shown to mitigate oxidative and inflammatory stress, thereby improving the appearance of photoaging.

AIMS

To examine the effects of THDA and AZ (THDA-AZ) on skin photoaging compared to THDA alone.

PATIENTS/METHODS

In this double-blind, randomized controlled trial, healthy individuals aged 30 to 65 were included and 44 participants were randomized to receive either THDA-AZ (THDA 5% + AZ 1%) or THDA only (THDA 5%) for 8 weeks. Facial photographs were taken at 0, 4, and 8 weeks to analyze wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and redness intensity. A skin colorimeter was used to assess infraorbital pigmentation and erythema. Self-perception of skin and tolerability were assessed through questionnaires.

RESULTS

Average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 0.75% (p = 0.023) and 3.72% (p = 0.048), respectively, compared to the THDA group where wrinkle severity at Weeks 4 and 8 was increased by 7.88% and 4.48%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was significantly decreased in the THDA-AZ group by 4.10% (p = 0.0002) at Week 8 compared to a 0.69% decrease in the THDA group. Facial redness intensity was decreased in the THDA-AZ group at Weeks 4 and 8 by 3.73% (p = 0.0162) and 14.25% (p = 0.045), respectively, compared to the THDA group where at Weeks 4 and 8 erythema increased by 27.5% and 8.34%, respectively. There were no significant differences in either group for infraorbital pigmentation or erythema.

CONCLUSIONS

Daily use of combined THDA and AZ may improve facial wrinkle severity, pigment intensity, and erythema to a greater extent than THDA. While THDA alone increases facial wrinkle severity and erythema, the addition of AZ reduces both.

Formulation of Ascorbic Acid and Betaine-based Therapeutic Deep Eutectic System for Enhanced Transdermal Delivery of Ascorbic Acid

L-ascorbic acid (AA), a potent antioxidant, is commonly used topically in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. However, the incorporation of AA into topical formulations is difficult because of its highly unstable nature and relatively poor skin permeability. In this study, we propose an alternative strategy for improving the solubility and topical delivery of AA through its conversion to a therapeutic deep eutectic system (THEDES). AA and betaine (Bet)-based THEDESs were prepared at certain molar ratios and characterized using polarized optical microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry. Solubility tests showed that AA in the form of THEDES was readily soluble in various polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-propanediol) at a high concentration (approximately 40%). Furthermore, compared to AA alone or the physical mixture of AA and Bet, AA-based THEDES significantly enhanced AA delivery through porcine skin. In an in vivo human study, THEDES-containing serum reduced the markers of aging and induced an even skin tone. These findings indicate the utility of AA and Bet-based THEDES as novel transdermal delivery systems for AA. Furthermore, our approach also showed good extension to developing gluconolactone, a well-known natural antioxidant, and Bet-based THEDES, showing potential application in transdermal delivery systems.

Riboflavin (vitamin B2) sensitized photooxidation of ascorbic acid (vitamin C): A kinetic study

Ascorbic acid (AH2) photoxidation sensitized by riboflavin (RF) has been studied between pH 2.0 and 12.0 in ambient air and anaerobic environment using UV and visible irradiation sources. The kinetics of AH2 degradation in aqueous medium along with RF is found to be first-order for its photodegradation. AH2 photolysis rate constants in aerobic and anaerobic conditions with RF (1.0-5.0 × 10-5 M) are 0.14-3.89 × 10-2 and 0.026-0.740 × 10-2 min-1, respectively. The rate constants (k2) of second-order kinetics for AH2 and RF photochemical interaction in aerobic and anaerobic conditions are in the range of 0.24-3.70 to 0.05-0.70 × 10-3 M-1 min-1, respectively, which manifests that increasing the RF concentration also increases the rate of photodegradation (photooxidation) of AH2. The k2 versus pH graph is bell-shaped which indicates that increasing the pH increases photolytic degradation rate of AH2 with RF. Increasing the pH results in the increased ionization of AH2 (ascorbyl anion, AH-) and redox potential which leads to the higher rates of photodegradation of AH2. Two-component spectrophotometric (243 and 266 nm, AH2 and RF, respectively) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) methods have been used to determine the concentration of AH2 and RF in pure and degraded solutions. The results obtained from these two methods are compared using a student t-test which showed no noteworthy difference between them.

Enhanced Physical Stability of L-Ascorbic Acid in an Ionic Liquid

Ionic liquid (IL) technology was used to enhance the stability of L-ascorbic acid (AA). Pyridoxine was selected as the counter cation for anionic AA in IL. After AA was dissolved in water at 40 °C, its ratio decreased to 3.2% after 7 d. In contrast, the IL formulation showed negligible degradation, with almost no loss of AA even after 28 d. These results suggest that the use of IL enhances the stability of AA.

Polyphenols: Natural Preservatives with Promising Applications in Food, Cosmetics and Pharma Industries; Problems and Toxicity Associated with Synthetic Preservatives; Impact of Misleading Advertisements; Recent Trends in Preservation and Legislation

The global market of food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical products requires continuous tracking of harmful ingredients and microbial contamination for the sake of the safety of both products and consumers as these products greatly dominate the consumer's health, directly or indirectly. The existence, survival, and growth of microorganisms in the product may lead to physicochemical degradation or spoilage and may infect the consumer at another end. It has become a challenge for industries to produce a product that is safe, self-stable, and has high nutritional value, as many factors such as physical, chemical, enzymatic, or microbial activities are responsible for causing spoilage to the product within the due course of time. Thus, preservatives are added to retain the virtue of the product to ensure its safety for the consumer. Nowadays, the use of synthetic/artificial preservatives has become common and has not been widely accepted by consumers as they are aware of the fact that exposure to preservatives can lead to adverse effects on health, which is a major area of concern for researchers. Naturally occurring phenolic compounds appear to be extensively used as bio-preservatives to prolong the shelf life of the finished product. Based on the convincing shreds of evidence reported in the literature, it is suggested that phenolic compounds and their derivatives have massive potential to be investigated for the development of new moieties and are proven to be promising drug molecules. The objective of this article is to provide an overview of the significant role of phenolic compounds and their derivatives in the preservation of perishable products from microbial attack due to their exclusive antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties and the problems associated with the use of synthetic preservatives in pharmaceutical products. This article also analyzes the recent trends in preservation along with technical norms that regulate the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical products in the developing countries.

Preparation and Spectroscopic Characterization of Ternary Inclusion Complexes of Ascorbyl Palmitate and Urea with γ-Cyclodextrin

A three-component inclusion complex of ascorbyl palmitate (ASCP), urea (UR), and γ-cyclodextrin (γCD) with a molar ratio of 1/12 has been prepared for the first time using the evaporation method (EVP method) and the grinding and mixing method (GM method). Also, we investigated changes in the physicochemical properties of the three-component complexes. The powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD) measurements showed ASCP, UR, and γCD characteristic peaks in the physical mixture (PM) (AU (ASCP/UR = 1/12)/γCD = 1/2). In GM (AU (ASCP/UR = 1/12)/γCD = 1/1), new diffraction peaks were observed around 2θ = 7.5° and 16.6°, while characteristic peaks derived from EVP (ASCP/UR = 1/12) were observed at 2θ = 23.4° and 24.9°. On the other hand, new diffraction peaks at 2θ = 7.4° and 16.6° were observed in GM (1/2). In the differential scanning calorimeter (DSC) measurement, an endothermic peak at around 83 °C was observed in the GM (1/1) sample, which is thought to originate from the phase transition of urea from the hexagonal to the tetragonal form. An endothermic peak around 113.9 °C was also observed for EVP (ASCP/UR = 1/12). However, no characteristic phase transition-derived peak or EVP (ASCP/UR = 1/12)-derived endothermic peak was observed in GM (1/2). Near infrared (NIR) spectroscopy of GM (1/2) showed no shift in the peak derived from the CH group of ASCP. The peaks derived from the NH group of UR shifted to the high and low wavenumber sides at 5032 cm−1 and 5108 cm−1 in EVP (ASCP/UR = 1/12). The peak derived from the OH group of γCD shifted, and the peak derived from the OH group of ASCP broadened at GM (1/2). These results suggest that AU (ASCP/UR = 1/12)/γCD prepared by the mixed grinding method formed inclusion complexes at the molar ratio (1/2).

Development of Emulsions Containing L-Ascorbic Acid and α-Tocopherol Based on the Polysaccharide FucoPol: Stability Evaluation and Rheological and Texture Assessment

The main function of vitamin C, as an antioxidant, is to combat free radicals and prevent premature aging, smoothing wrinkles and expression lines. In addition, it acts directly on depigmentation and prevention of blemishes on the skin. In this study, natural oils (30 wt.%) and α-tocopherol (2.5 wt.%) containing oil-in-water (O/W) emulsions stabilized with the bacterial fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol were formulated, adding L-ascorbic acid as an antioxidant. The optimized formulations were obtained with 8.0 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Olea europaea oil formulation (C1) with a ƞ value of 2.71 Pa.s (measured at shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 96% and with 15 wt.% L-ascorbic acid for the Prunus amygdalus dulcis formulation (C2) with a ƞ value of 5.15 Pa.s (at a shear rate of 2.3 s−1) and E24 = 99%. The stability of the FucoPol-based formulations was investigated over 45 days at 4 °C, 20 °C, and 30 °C. The results showed that all formulations maintained the organoleptic characteristics, with pH variations (5.7–6.8 for C1, and 5.5–6.03 for C2) within the regulations for cosmetic products (4 ≤ pH ≤ 7). The accelerated stability tests proved the formulations’ stability at 4 °C with EI = 95% for C1 and EI = 100% for C2. The rheological assessment demonstrated that the formulation presents a shear-thinning and liquid-like behavior. Regarding textural parameters, formulations C1 and C2 displayed an increase in firmness and consistency with similar spreadability during the shelf life. These findings further demonstrate FucoPol’s functional properties, acting as an emulsifier and stabilizer polysaccharide in cosmetic formulations containing L-ascorbic acid.

Design of Novel Tricaprylin-Incorporated Multi-Layered Liposomal System for Skin Delivery of Ascorbic Acid with Improved Chemical Stability

L-ascorbic acid (Vit C) possesses a variety of dermatological functions in maintaining skin health and anti-aging properties. However, its topical application is challenging owing to its liability to light, oxygen, or heat. Therefore, in this study, a novel liposomal system, including a lipophilic neutral oil named a lipo-oil-some (LOS), was designed to improve the chemical stability and aid the skin absorption of Vit C. The vesicular systems were prepared using the ethanol injection method, employing phosphatidylcholine, cholesterol, dipalmitoyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoglycerol, and tricaprylin as neutral oil. The optimized LOS was characterized as follows: shape, multi-layered sphere; size, 981 nm; zeta potential, -58 mV; and Vit C encapsulation efficiency, 35%. The encapsulation of the labile compound into the novel system markedly enhanced photostability, providing over 10% higher Vit C remaining compared to Vit C solution or Vit C-loaded conventional liposome under a light intensity of 20,000 lx. On the other hand, the ex vivo skin permeation and accumulation of Vit C with the LOS system were comparable to those of smaller conventional liposomes (198 nm) in a Franz diffusion cell model mounted with porcine skin. Based on these findings, we concluded that the novel liposomal system could be utilized for skin delivery of Vit C with enhanced chemical stability.

Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) as a Cosmeceutical to Increase Dermal Collagen for Skin Antiaging Purposes: Emerging Combination Therapies

Ascorbic acid (AA) is an essential nutrient and has great potential as a cosmeceutical that protects the health and beauty of the skin. AA is expected to attenuate photoaging and the natural aging of the skin by reducing oxidative stress caused by external and internal factors and by promoting collagen gene expression and maturation. In this review, the biochemical basis of AA associated with collagen metabolism and clinical evidence of AA in increasing dermal collagen and inhibiting skin aging were discussed. In addition, we reviewed emerging strategies that have been developed to overcome the shortcomings of AA as a cosmeceutical and achieve maximum efficacy. Because extracellular matrix proteins, such as collagen, have unique amino acid compositions, their production in cells is influenced by the availability of specific amino acids. For example, glycine residues occupy 1/3 of amino acid residues in collagen protein, and the supply of glycine can be a limiting factor for collagen synthesis. Experiments showed that glycinamide was the most effective among the various amino acids and amidated amino acids in stimulating collagen production in human dermal fibroblasts. Thus, it is possible to synergistically improve collagen synthesis by combining AA analogs and amino acid analogs that act at different stages of the collagen production process. This combination therapy would be useful for skin antiaging that requires enhanced collagen production.

The human lens: An antioxidant-dependent tissue revealed by the role of caffeine

Cataract is the leading cause of blindness worldwide and surgery is the only option to treat the disease. Although the surgery is considered to be relatively safe, complications may occur in a subset of patients and access to ophthalmic care may be limited. Due to a growing and ageing population, an increase in cataract prevalence is expected and its management will become a socioeconomic challenge. Hence, there is a need for an alternative to cataract surgery. It is well known that oxidative stress is one of the main pathological processes leading to the generation of the disease. Antioxidant supplementation may, therefore, be a strategy to delay or to prevent the progression of cataract. Caffeine is a widely consumed high-potency antioxidant and may be of interest for the prevention of the disease. This review aims to give an overview of the anatomy and function of the lens, its antioxidant and reactive oxygen species (ROS) composition, and the role of oxidative stress in cataractogenesis. Also, the pharmacokinetics and -dynamics of caffeine will be described and the literature will be reviewed to give an overview of its anti-cataract potential and its possible role in the prevention of the disease.

Rapid determination of L-ascorbic acid content in vitamin C serums by ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to develop and validate a rapid, simple, accurate, and precise analytical method for the quantification of L-AA in vitamin C serums. Moreover, the developed method was further applied to determine L-AA in eight different brands of vitamin C serums. A complementary study was also carried out to evaluate the stability of L-AA in the vitamin C serum samples after 15, 30, 45, and 60 days of storage at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC).

METHODS

Ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (UHPLC-MS/MS) was applied.

RESULTS

Quantitative analyses were performed with a total chromatographic run time of 1.5 min by matrix-matched calibration, and the analytical curve was linear over the range of 1-1700 μg L^-1 with a correlation coefficient of 0.9998. The limits of detection (LOD) and quantification (LOQ) were 0.3 and 1.0 μg L^-1 , respectively. Intra- and inter-assay precisions, expressed in terms of relative standard deviation (RSD), ranged from 0.3% and 2.2%, respectively, and recoveries in two concentration levels (1 and 5 µg L^-1 ) were 103.9% and 101.2%, respectively. The proposed analytical method was successfully applied to determine de L-AA content of eight commercial vitamin C serum samples. The stability of the target analyte in samples stored at ambient temperature (15 ºC to 35 ºC) was evaluated throughout 60 days with a 15-day interval between analyses. At 0 days, L-AA content in samples ranged from 1.05 - 169.91 mg L^-1 , decreasing over time.

CONCLUSION

The proposed method could be powerful in routine analyses to ensure the quality of L-AA vitamin C serums since it proved a simple, reliable, fast, precise, accurate, and sensitive analytical method.

Preparation and Characterization of a Hybrid Complex of Cyclodextrin-Based Metal-Organic Frameworks-1 and Ascorbic Acid Derivatives

Cyclodextrin-based metal–organic frameworks-1 (CD-MOF-1) prepared using potassium hydroxide, ethanol, and γ-cyclodextrin (γ-CD) has been reported as a new type of MOF for the development of pharmaceutical formulations. The present study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of ascorbic acid derivatives (L-ascorbyl 6-palmitate (ASCP); L-ascorbyl 2,6-palmitate (ASCDP)) complexed with CD-MOF-1 by a solvent evaporation method. Powder X-ray diffraction revealed that the crystal diffraction pattern of CD-MOF-1 changed from α-type to β-type when prepared by a solvent evaporation method. For ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2 and ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4 evaporated samples, the crystal diffraction peaks derived from ASCP and ASCDP disappeared, indicating a β-like behavior. Differential scanning calorimetry results revealed that the endothermic peaks of evaporated samples (ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2 and ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4) were not detected due to melting. Furthermore, intermolecular interactions were observed in the hydrogen bonds between the CH groups of the side chains of ASCP and ASCDP and the OH group of CD-MOF-1 in (ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2) and EVP (ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4), based on the near-infrared absorption spectroscopy analysis. CD-MOF-1 did not form inclusion complexes with the lactone rings of ASCP and ASCDP, but with the lipophilic side chains. These results suggested that CD-MOF-1 may be useful in preparing novel drug carriers for ASCP and ASCDP.

Optimisation of food grade mixed surfactant-based l-ascorbic acid nanoemulsions using response surface methodology

Co‐surfactant free l‐ascorbic acid (LAA) nanoemulsions were prepared using mixed surfactants (Soya lecithin and Tween 80). Response surface methodology (RSM) was used to optimise the emulsifying conditions for LAA nanoemulsions. The effects of water proportion (6%–14% w/w), homogenisation pressure (80–160 MPa), surfactant concentrations (4%–12% w/w) and laa concentration (0.5–1.3 w/w) on responses (size of droplets and nanoemulsion stability) were investigated. RSM results showed that the values of responses can be successfully predicted through second‐order polynomial model. The coefficients of determinations for droplet size and nanoemulsion stability were 0.9375 and 0.9027, respectively. The optimum preparation conditions for l‐LAA nanoemulsion were 9.04% water proportion, 114.48 MPa homogenisation pressure, 7.36% surfactant concentration and 1.09% LAA concentration. At the end of one month storage study, the retention of LAA in optimised nanoemulsions stored at 4°C and 25°C were 74.4% and 66.7%, respectively. These results may provide valuable contributions for food and pharmaceutical industry to develop delivery system for food additives and nutraceutical components.

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside: An ascorbic acid pro-drug with longer-term antioxidant efficacy in skin

OBJECTIVE

Deleterious effects of pollutants and ultraviolet radiation on the skin can be attenuated using formulations containing antioxidants. However, these have disadvantages, including chemical instability, photodegradation, poor bioavailability or biological activity. Here, two commercial formulations were evaluated: one optimized to stabilize and deliver ascorbic acid (AA) at 15% and the other containing a glucoside form of AA, namely ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (AA2G), at 1.8% and at a physiological pH. We compared the skin delivery, antioxidative effects and chemical stability of AA2G with AA in their respective formulations.

METHODS

Skin delivery was measured using fresh viable human skin explants, and oxidative stress was measured using a human reconstructed epidermal (RHE) model according to levels of malondialdehyde (MDA), superoxide dismutase (SOD) and catalase.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid 2-glucoside was completely metabolized to AA by the skin before entering the receptor compartment. The skin contained parent and AA, indicating a reserve of AA2G was present for further metabolism. For AA2G and AA, maximum flux of AA-equivalents was at 12 h, with continued absorption over 24 h. The absolute amount in µg was higher in the skin after application of AA than after application of AA2G. This may suggest a greater antioxidative effect; however, according to all three measurements of oxidative stress, the protective effect of AA and AA2G was similar. Unlike AA, AA2G was chemically stable under storage conditions.

CONCLUSION

A lower concentration of AA2G is as effective as the active metabolite, AA, in terms of antioxidant effects. AA2G was chemically stable and can be applied at a lower concentration than AA, thus avoiding the need for an acidic formulation with a pH below 3.5.

Highly branched corn starch: Preparation, encapsulation, and release of ascorbic acid

The aim of this study was to prepare a supporting carrier, namely highly branched corn starch (HBCS), and to investigate its encapsulation property with ascorbic acid (AA). High amylose corn starch was converted into HBCS via dual enzymatic modification by successively using α-amylase and glycogen branching enzyme. The results showed that the ratio of α-1, 6 linkage of HBCS increased by 1.93%, and a short-to-medium chain length distribution with a compact branched conformation was formed, which suggested HBCS could be a potential highly branched carrier. The HBCS-AA inclusion complex was formed as confirmed by differential scanning calorimetry. The release of AA conformed to the pseudo-Fickian diffusion mechanism and followed the first-order kinetics. Meanwhile, the photostability and thermostability of the embedded AA were moderately enhanced. These findings suggest that HBCS provides new insights into the preparation of wall materials and can be potentially used to deliver AA into food systems.

Evolution of the use of antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics

OBJECTIVE

Skin health and beauty are a cornerstone of general well-being in humans. Anti-ageing cosmetics are used to provide a healthy and youthful appearance. Among the different cosmetic actives, antioxidants are incorporated in anti-ageing products due to their beneficial effects in preventing and minimizing the signs of skin ageing. This work aims to understand how anti-ageing formulations changed in the past 7 years regarding pure antioxidants composition.

METHODS

Data were collected from anti-ageing formulations commercialized in main stores and pharmacies in the Portuguese market. The study started on 2011 and was updated with products launched or whose composition has been renewed on 2013, 2015 or 2018.

RESULTS

Ascorbic acid and tocopherol and their derivatives were consistently the most used antioxidants in anti-ageing formulations; followed by niacinamide and retinyl palmitate. Seven ascorbic acid derivatives are currently used in anti-ageing formulations while only three tocopherol derivatives were identified in this study. Several combinations of antioxidants were routinely found, mainly tocopherol (or tocopherol derivatives) with other antioxidants and tocopherol with tocopherol derivatives. We have not identified emerging antioxidants with great impact in anti-ageing formulations even though niacinamide and retinyl palmitate exhibited over 10% more usage in 2018.

CONCLUSION

This insight is relevant to the cosmetic industry providing a better understanding of the scientific-based formulation of modern cosmetics and supports the need for innovative antioxidants in anti-ageing cosmetics.

Vitamin C: One compound, several uses. Advances for delivery, efficiency and stability

Vitamin C (Vit C) is a potent antioxidant with several applications in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical fields. However, the biggest challenge in the utilization of Vit C is to maintain its stability and improve its delivery to the active site. Several strategies have been developed such as: controlling the oxygen levels during formulation and storage, low pH, reduction of water content in the formulation and the addition of preservative agents. Additionally, the utilization of derivatives of Vit C and the development of micro and nanoencapsulated delivery systems have been highlighted. In this article, the multiple applications and mechanisms of action of vitamin C will be reviewed and discussed, as well as the new possibilities of delivery and improvement of stability.

Molecular photoprotection of human keratinocytes in vitro by the naturally occurring mycosporine-like amino acid palythine

Background

Solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) induces molecular and genetic changes in the skin, which result in skin cancer, photoageing and photosensitivity disorders. The use of sunscreens is advocated to prevent such photodamage; however, most formulations contain organic and inorganic UVR filters that are nonbiodegradable and can damage fragile marine ecosystems. Mycosporine‐like amino acids (MAAs) are natural UVR‐absorbing compounds that have evolved in marine species for protection against chronic UVR exposure in shallow‐water habitats.

Objectives

To determine if palythine, a photostable model MAA, could offer protection against a range of UVR‐induced damage biomarkers that are important in skin cancer and photoageing.

Methods

HaCaT human keratinocytes were used to assess the photoprotective potential of palythine using a number of end points including cell viability, DNA damage (nonspecific, cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and oxidatively generated damage), gene expression changes (linked to inflammation, photoageing and oxidative stress) and oxidative stress. The antioxidant mechanism was investigated using chemical quenching and Nrf2 pathway activation assays.

Results

Palythine offered statistically significant protection (P < 0·005) against all end points tested even at extremely low concentrations (0·3% w/v). Additionally, palythine was found to be a potent antioxidant, reducing oxidatively generated stress, even when added after exposure.

Conclusions

Palythine is an extremely effective multifunctional photoprotective molecule in vitro that has potential to be developed as a natural and biocompatible alternative to currently approved UVR filters.

What's already known about this topic?

Mycosporine‐like amino acids (MAAs) are photoprotective molecules found in marine organisms but there are few data on their ability to protect skin cells from the adverse effects of solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR).

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is concerned about the potential adverse health and ecotoxic effects of eight of 16 commonly used sunscreen filters in Europe. The Environmental Effects Assessment Panel (EEAP) of the United Nations Environment Programme has expressed similar concerns.

What does this study add?

Palythine, an MAA extracted from an edible seaweed, affords photoprotection against a wide range of adverse effects in HaCaT keratinocytes exposed to solar simulating and ultraviolet A radiation. Of note is protection against two types of DNA photolesions; cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers and 8‐oxo‐7,8‐dihydroguanine.

Palythine is also a potent antioxidant that offers protection even when added after UVR exposure.

What is the translational message?

MAAs should be considered for development as natural biocompatible sunscreens that may address the concerns of the ECHA and EEAP.

Linked Comment: https://doi.org/10.1111/bjd.16598.

https://goo.gl/Uqv3dl

Photostability Issues in Pharmaceutical Dosage Forms and Photostabilization

Photodegradation is one of the major pathways of the degradation of drugs. Some therapeutic agents and excipients are highly sensitive to light and undergo significant degradation, challenging the quality and the stability of the final product. The adequate knowledge of photodegradation mechanisms and kinetics of photosensitive therapeutic entities or excipients is a pivotal aspect in the product development phase. Hence, various pharmaceutical regulatory agencies, across the world, mandated the industries to assess the photodegradation of pharmaceutical products from manufacturing stage till storage, as per the guidelines given in the International Conference on Harmonization (ICH). Recently, numerous formulation and/or manufacturing strategies has been investigated for preventing the photodegradation and enhancing the photostability of photolabile components in the pharmaceutical dosage forms. The primary focus of this review is to discuss various photodegradation mechanisms, rate kinetics, and the factors that influence the rate of photodegradation. We also discuss light-induced degradation of photosensitive lipids and polymers. We conclude with a brief note on different approaches to improve the photostability of photosensitive products.

Usefulness of Urea as a Means of Improving the Solubility of Poorly Water-Soluble Ascorbyl Palmitate

The aim of this study was to evaluate complexes of L-ascorbyl palmitate (ASCP) and urea (UR). This evaluation involved differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR), a solubility test, a 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging test, and a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay. Physicochemical evaluation revealed that ASCP/UR complexes form at a molar ratio of 1/12. The solubility test revealed that ASCP/UR complexes had increased solubility compared to ASCP. The DPPH radical scavenging test and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay revealed that the activity of ASCP/UR complexes was not impaired by complex formation. These results are probably due to the tetragonal crystal system of UR changing to a hexagonal crystal system and interaction with the alkyl group of ASCP.

The role of the antioxidant ascorbic acid in the elicitation of contact allergic reactions to p-phenylenediamine

BACKGROUND

An allergic contact reaction is accompanied by high oxidative stress in the skin. Pretreatment of the skin with antioxidative substances could reduce the elicitation reaction.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate, in a proof-of-principle study, whether pretreatment of the skin with the antioxidant ascorbic acid reduces the elicitation reaction to a p-phenylenediamine (PPD)-containing hair dye in sensitized subjects.

METHODS

Twelve subjects with contact allergy to PPD, a documented skin reaction to a hair dye simulation exposure model and a history of hair dye-related skin complaints were included in this study. Skin areas on the forearms were, in a left versus right design, exposed to an emulsion with ascorbic acid and an emulsion without ascorbic acid, and then to a 2% PPD-containing hair dye testing formulation. In addition, control areas were exposed to the emulsions and to the PPD-containing hair dye formulation without pretreatment. Skin reactions were graded on day (D)2 and D3.

RESULTS

Pretreatment with ascorbic acid emulsion resulted in a reduction in the elicitation reaction in 7 of 12 subjects at D3 (p = 0.046). No statistically significant difference was observed at D2.

CONCLUSIONS

Pretreatment of the skin with the antioxidant ascorbic acid had an attenuating effect on the elicitation reaction to PPD in sensitized individuals.

Photochemical Mechanism of Riboflavin-Induced Degradation of Famotidine and a Suggested Pharmaceutical Strategy for Improving Photostability

The present study aimed to clarify the mechanism of photodegradation of famotidine with riboflavin (FMT/RF), and to develop a photochemically stabilized formulation of FMT/RF. Photochemical properties of RF were characterized by UV-VIS spectral analysis, reactive oxygen species (ROS) assay, and photostability testing. Pharmacokinetic study was conducted in rats after intravenous administration of FMT (1 mg/kg) formulation containing RF (0.01 mg/kg). The UV-VIS spectral pattern of RF partly overlapped with the sunlight spectrum, and ROS generation from photoirradiated RF was remarkable; thus, RF had high photoreactive potential. In the photostability testing, after irradiation (250 W/m(2)), degradation rate for FMT in FMT/RF was ca. 11-fold higher than that in FMT alone. The addition of radical scavengers to FMT/RF led to attenuated photodegradation of FMT/RF; in particular, the addition of L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C; VC) to FMT/RF showed ca. 86% inhibition of the photodegradation of FMT/RF. The pharmacokinetic study on FMT indicated that the addition of VC (1 mg/kg) to FMT/RF had no significant impact on the pharmacokinetic behavior of FMT. These findings suggest that ROS-mediated photochemical reaction would be involved in the photodegradation pathway of FMT/RF, and the complementary use of VC might be an attractive approach to improve the photostability of FMT/RF.

A synergistic approach of adapalene-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers, and vitamin C co-administration for treating acne

The present study documents the fabrication and characterization of a topically applicable gel loaded with nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) of adapalene (ADA) and vitamin C (ascorbyl-6-palmitate [AP]). The NLCs were prepared by high pressure homogenization (HPH) method followed by incorporation into AP loaded gel. The fabricated system was characterized for size, poly dispersity index, entrapment efficiency (EE) and in vitro drug release properties, and was further investigated for skin compliance, skin transport characteristics (skin permeation and bio-distribution), rheological behavior, texture profile analysis and anti-acne therapeutic potential against testosterone-induced acne in male Wistar rats. The NLC-based formulation improved targeting of the skin epidermal layer and reducing systemic penetration. The co-administration of vitamin C led to an adjunct effect in acne therapy in physiological conditions. In brief, the present results suggest the potential of NLCs as a novel carrier for the dermal delivery of ADA and also the synergistic effect of vitamin C in topical therapeutics.

Development and In Vitro Evaluation of Vitamin E-Enriched Nanoemulsion Vehicles Loaded with Genistein for Chemoprevention Against UVB-Induced Skin Damage

There is a great need for effective protection against cutaneous pathologies arising from chronic exposure to harmful solar UVB radiations. A promising pharmaceutical strategy to improve the efficacy of chemotherapeutic/preventative natural compounds (e.g., soy isoflavone Genistein, Gen) is to enhance their dermal delivery using nanoemulsion (NE) formulations. This report investigates the development of nanoemulsified tocotrienol(T3)-rich fraction of red palm oil (Tocomin®), to yield an optimal NE delivery system for dermal photoprotection (z-average size <150 nm, ζ-potential ≈ -30 mV, polydispersity index < 0.25). Physicochemical characterization and photostability studies indicate NE formulations utilizing surfactant mixture (Smix) of Solutol® HS-15 (SHS15) blended with vitamin E TPGS (TPGS) as cosurfactant was significantly superior to formulations that utilized Lutrol® F68 (LF68) as the cosurfactant. A ratio of 60:40 of SHS15-TPGS-NE was further identified as lead Tocomin® NE topical platform using in vitro pharmaceutical skin reactivity studies that assess cutaneous irritancy and cytotoxicity. Prototype Tocomin® NE loaded with the antiphotocarcinogenic molecule Gen (Gen-Tocomin® NE) showed slow-release profile in both liquid and cream forms. Gen-Tocomin® NE also showed excellent biocompatibility, and provided substantial UVB protection to cultured subcutaneous L929 fibroblasts, indicating the great potential of our Tocomin® NE warranting further prototype development as topical pharmaceutical platform for skin photoprotection applications.

Photo, thermal and chemical degradation of riboflavin

Riboflavin (RF), also known as vitamin B₂, belongs to the class of water-soluble vitamins and is widely present in a variety of food products. It is sensitive to light and high temperature, and therefore, needs a consideration of these factors for its stability in food products and pharmaceutical preparations. A number of other factors have also been identified that affect the stability of RF. These factors include radiation source, its intensity and wavelength, pH, presence of oxygen, buffer concentration and ionic strength, solvent polarity and viscosity, and use of stabilizers and complexing agents. A detailed review of the literature in this field has been made and all those factors that affect the photo, thermal and chemical degradation of RF have been discussed. RF undergoes degradation through several mechanisms and an understanding of the mode of photo- and thermal degradation of RF may help in the stabilization of the vitamin. A general scheme for the photodegradation of RF is presented.

Stability, transdermal penetration, and cutaneous effects of ascorbic acid and its derivatives

Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals and over-the-counter cosmeceuticals incorporating antioxidants are among the most popular anti-aging products available. One potent antioxidant of particular note, vitamin C, has been extensively utilized because it possesses a variety of other cutaneous benefits including photoprotection from UV A & B, neocollagenesis, inhibition of melanogenesis and improvement of a variety of inflammatory skin disorders. However, the instability of this water-soluble vitamin, together with difficulties associated with its topical delivery, has presented issues for the formulation chemist. This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies that underpin the stability, percutaneous absorption, and cutaneous effects of vitamin C together with its commonly utilized, commercially available derivatives.

Photodegradation and stabilization of betamethasone-17 valerate in aqueous/organic solvents and topical formulations

The effects of solvent [acetonitrile, methanol, and acetonitrile/water mixture (20:80, v/v)], buffer concentration (phosphate buffer, pH 7.5), ionic strength and commonly employed adjuvants on the photodegradation of betamethasone-17 valerate in cream and gel formulations have been studied on exposure to UV light (300-400 nm). A validated high-performance liquid chromatography method has been used to determine the parent compound and its photodegraded products. The photodegradation data in the studied solvents showed greater decomposition of the drug in solvents with a lower dielectric constant. A comparatively higher rate of photodegradation was observed in the cream formulation compared to that for the gel formulation. The kinetic treatment of the photodegradation data revealed that the degradation of the drug follows first-order kinetics and the apparent first-order rate constants for the photodegradation reactions, in the media studied, range from 1.62 to 11.30×10(-3) min(-1). The values of the rate constants decrease with increasing phosphate concentration and ionic strength which could be due to the deactivation of the excited state and radical quenching. The second-order rate constant (k') for the phosphate ion-inhibited reactions at pH 7.5 has been found to be 5.22×10(-2) M(-1) s(-1). An effective photostabilization of the drug has been achieved in cream and gel formulations with titanium dioxide (33.5-42.5%), vanillin (21.6-28.7%), and butyl hydroxytoluene (18.2-21.6%).

Photostabilization of ascorbic acid with citric acid, tartaric acid and boric acid in cream formulations

This study involves the evaluation of the effect of certain stabilizers, that is, citric acid (CT), tartaric acid (TA) and boric acid (BA) on the degradation of ascorbic acid (AH(2) ) in oil-in-water cream formulations exposed to the UV light and stored in the dark. The apparent first-order rate constants (0.34-0.95 × 10(-3) min(-1) in light, 0.38-1.24 × 10(-2) day(-1) in dark) for the degradation reactions in the presence of the stabilizers have been determined. These rate constants have been used to derive the second-order rate constants (0.26-1.45 × 10(-2) M(-1) min(-1) in light, 3.75-8.50 × 10(-3) M(-1) day(-1) in dark) for the interaction of AH(2) and the individual stabilizers. These stabilizers are effective in causing the inhibition of the rate of degradation of AH(2) both in the light and in the dark. The inhibitory effect of the stabilizers is in the order of CT > TA > BA. The rate of degradation of AH(2) in the presence of these stabilizers in the light is about 120 times higher than that in the dark. This could be explained on the basis of the deactivation of AH(2) -excited triplet state by CT and TA and by the inhibition of AH(2) degradation through complex formation with BA. AH(2) leads to the formation of dehydroascorbic acid (A) by chemical and photooxidation in cream formulations.

Benefits of combinations of vitamin A, C and E derivatives in the stability of cosmetic formulations

Chemically stable ester derivatives of vitamins A, C and E have become a focus of interest for their role in the satisfactory results in skin aging treatments. Accordingly, the aim of this study was to evaluate the physical and chemical stability of a cosmetic formulation containing 1% retinyl palmitate, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and tocopheryl acetate, alone or in combination. In the studies of physical stability, a Brookfield rheometer was used to determine rheological behavior of formulations containing the vitamins. Chemical stability was determined by HPLC on a Shimadzu system with UV detection. Results showed that formulations had pseudoplastic behavior and that vitamins did not alter their apparent viscosity and thixotropy. In the chemical stability studies, first-order reaction equations were used for determinations of the shelf-life of vitamins derivatives considering a remaining concentration of 85%. Combined vitamins in a single formulation had a slightly lower degradation rate as compared to different preparations containing only one of the vitamins. Considering that many cosmetic formulations contain vitamin combinations it is suggested that the present study may contribute to the development of more stable formulations containing liposoluble vitamins.