Current Advances of Nanocarrier Technology-Based Active Cosmetic Ingredients for Beauty Applications

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Formulation and Characterization of Ethosomes for Transdermal Delivery of Prinsepia Utilis Rogle Seed Oil with Ameliorative Effects against UVB-Induced Skin Damage

Prinsepia utilis seed oil (PUSO) is a natural medication obtained from Prinsepia utilis Rogle seed, which has been used for the treatment of skin diseases. The study aims to prepare ethosomes with high drug loading as a water-soluble transdermal vehicle to enhance the transdermal delivery of PUSO. PUSO-loaded ethosomes (PEs) were prepared using a cold method, and optimized by an orthogonal experimental design with entrapment efficiency (EE) as the dependent variable. The PEs prepared with the optimized formulation showed good stability, with a spherical shape under transmission electron microscopy (TEM), average particle size of 39.12 ± 0.85 nm, PDI of 0.270 ± 0.01, zeta potential of -11.3 ± 0.24 mV, and EE of 95.93 ± 0.43%. PEs significantly increased the skin deposition of PUSO compared to the PUSO suspension (P < 0.001). Moreover, the optimum formula showed significant ameliorative effects on ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation-associated macroscopic and histopathological changes in mice skin. Therefore, PEs represent a promising therapeutic approach for the treatment of UVB-induced skin inflammation, with the potential for industrialization.

Rigid-flexible nanocarriers loaded with active peptides for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory applications in skin

Peptides are recognized as highly effective and safe bioactive ingredients. However, t their practical application is limited and hampered by harsh conditions for practical drug delivery. Hence, a novel peptide nanocarrier of copper peptide (GHK-Cu) encapsulation developed by liposome technology combined with the classical Chinese concept of rigidity and flexibility. Different polyols were selected as modification ligands for phospholipid bilayers to construct a nano drug-carrying system with high loading rate, good stability and biocompatibility. In vitro, this complex not only significantly retarded the release ability of copper peptides, but also enabled copper peptides to be effectively resistant to enzymatic degradation. Furthermore, cellular experiments showed that this system mainly regulates Nrf2, SIRT1, and PEG2/COX-2-related signaling pathways, thus effectively counteracting cellular inflammation, senescence, and apoptosis from oxidative damage. Interestingly, a green, non-toxic, efficient and convenient antioxidant system was developed for the prevention and deceleration of skin aging.

Current approaches in tissue engineering-based nanotherapeutics for osteosarcoma treatment

Osteosarcoma (OS) is a malignant bone neoplasm plagued by poor prognosis. Major treatment strategies include chemotherapy, radiotherapy, and surgery. Chemotherapy to treat OS has severe adverse effects due to systemic toxicity to healthy cells. A possible way to overcome the limitation is to utilize nanotechnology. Nanotherapeutics is an emerging approach in treating OS using nanoparticulate drug delivery systems. Surgical resection of OS leaves a critical bone defect requiring medical intervention. Recently, tissue engineered scaffolds have been reported to provide physical support to bone defects and aid multimodal treatment of OS. These scaffolds loaded with nanoparticulate delivery systems could also actively repress tumor growth and aid new bone formation. The rapid developments in nanotherapeutics and bone tissue engineering have paved the way for improved treatment efficacy for OS-related bone defects. This review focuses on current bifunctional nanomaterials-based tissue engineered (NTE) scaffolds that use novel approaches such as magnetic hyperthermia, photodynamic therapy, photothermal therapy, bioceramic and polymeric nanotherapeutics against OS. With further optimization and screening, NTE scaffolds could meet clinical applications for treating OS patients.

Comparable Toxicity of Surface-Modified TiO2 Nanoparticles: An In Vivo Experimental Study on Reproductive Toxicity in Rats

Nanoparticles (NPs), a distinct class of particles ranging in size from 1 to 100 nm, are one of the most promising technologies of the 21st century, and titanium dioxide NPs (TiO2 NPs) are among the most widely produced and used NPs globally. The increased application of TiO2 NPs raises concerns regarding their global safety and risks of exposure. Many animal studies have reported the accumulation of TiO2 NPs in female reproductive organs; however, evidence of the resultant toxicity remains ambiguous. Since the surface area and chemical modifications of NPs can significantly change their cytotoxicity, we aimed to compare the toxic effects of pristine TiO2 powder with surface-modified TiO2 powders with salicylic acid (TiO2/SA) and 5-aminosalicylic acid (TiO2/5-ASA) on the ovaries, oviducts, and uterus on the 14th day following acute oral treatment. The results, based on alterations in food and water intake, body mass, organ-to-body mass ratio, hormonal status, histological features of tissues of interest, and antioxidant parameters, suggest that the modification with 5-ASA can mitigate some of the observed toxic effects of TiO2 powder and encourage future investigations to create NPs that can potentially reduce the harmful effects of TiO2 NPs while preserving their positive impacts.

Facile Fabrication of Sandalwood Oil-Based Nanoemulsion to Intensify the Fatty Acid Composition in Burned and Rough Skin

The restoration process of burned and rough skin takes a long time and remains a critical challenge. It can be repaired through a combination of proper care, hydration, and topical therapies. In this study, a novel nanoemulsion was synthesized through the high-energy ultrasonication method. A total of five nanoemulsions (NE1-5) were prepared with varying concentrations of sandalwood oil, a nonionic surfactant (polysorbate 80), and water. Among them, NE3 had a number of appropriate physicochemical characteristics, such as physiological pH (5.58 ± 0.09), refractive index (∼1.34), electrical conductivity (115 ± 0.23 mS cm-1), and transmittance (∼96.5%), which were suitable for skin care applications. The NE3 had a strong surface potential of -18.5 ± 0.15 mV and a hydrodynamic size of 61.99 ± 0.22 nm with a polydispersity index of 0.204. The structural integrity and a distinct droplet size range between 50 and 100 nm were confirmed by transmission electron microscopic analysis. The skin regeneration and restoration abilities of synthesized nanoemulsions were examined by conducting an in vivo study on Sprague-Dawley rats. Exposure to NE3 significantly increased the healing process in burned skin as compared to untreated control and nonemulsified sandalwood oil. In another set of experiments, the NE3-treated rough skin became softer, smoother, and less scaly than all other treatments. Enhanced fatty acids, i.e., palmitic acid, stearic acid, and cholesterol, were recorded in NE3-supplemented burned and rough skin compared to the untreated control. The NE3 had outstanding compatibility with key components of skincare products without any stability issues. Its biocompatibility with the cellular system was established by the negligible generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and a lack of genotoxicity. Considering these results, NE3 can be used in cosmetic products such as creams, lotions, and serums, allowing industries to achieve improved product formulations and provide better healthcare benefits to humanity.

Enzymatic hydrolysis allows an integral valorization of Nannochloropsis oceanica resulting in the production of bioactive peptide extracts and an eicosapentaenoic acid enriched fraction

Nannochloropsis oceanica is a microalga with relevant protein content, making it a potential source of bioactive peptides. Furthermore, it is also rich in fatty acids, with a special focus on eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), an omega-3 fatty acid mainly obtained from marine animal sources, with high importance for human health. N. oceanica has a rigid cell wall constraining protein extraction, thus hydrolyzing it may help increase its components' extractability. Therefore, a Box-Behnken experimental design was carried out to optimize the hydrolysis. The hydrolysate A showed 67% ± 0.7% of protein, antioxidant activity of 1166 ± 63.7 μmol TE g-1 of protein and an ACE inhibition with an IC50 of 379 μg protein mL-1 . The hydrolysate B showed 60% ± 1.8% of protein, antioxidant activity of 775 ± 13.0 μmol TE g-1 of protein and an ACE inhibition with an IC50 of 239 μg protein mL-1 . The by-product showed higher yields of total fatty acids when compared to "raw" microalgae, being 5.22% and 1%, respectively. The sustainable developed methodology led to the production of one fraction rich in bioactive peptides and another with interesting EPA content, both with value-added properties with potential to be commercialized as ingredients for different industrial applications, such as functional food, supplements, or cosmetic formulations.

Inorganic nanoparticles in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products: Properties, formulation development, toxicity, and regulatory issues

The use of nanotechnology strategies is a current hot topic, and research in this field has been growing significantly in the cosmetics industry. Inorganic nanoparticles stand out in this context for their distinctive physicochemical properties, leading in particular to an increased refractive index and absorption capacity giving them a broad potential for cutaneous applications and making them of special interest in research for dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic purposes. This performance is responsible for its heavy inclusion in the manufacture of skin health products such as sunscreens, lotions, beauty creams, skin ointments, makeup, and others. In particular, their suitable bandgap energy characteristics allow them to be used as photocatalytic semiconductors. They provide excellent UV absorption, commonly known as UV filters, and are responsible for their wide worldwide use in sunscreen formulations without the undesirable white residue after consumer application. In addition, cosmetics based on inorganic nanoparticles have several additional characteristics relevant to formulation development, such as being less expensive compared to other nanomaterials, having greater stability, and ensuring less irritation, itching, and propensity for skin allergies. This review will address in detail the main inorganic nanoparticles used in dermopharmaceutical and cosmetic products, such as titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, silicon dioxide, silver, gold, copper, and aluminum nanoparticles, nanocrystals, and quantum dots, reporting their physicochemical characteristics, but also their additional intrinsic properties that contribute to their use in this type of formulations. Safety issues regarding inorganic nanoparticles, based on toxicity studies, both to humans and the environment, as well as regulatory affairs associated with their use in dermopharmaceuticals and cosmetics, will be addressed.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Hyaluronic Acid-Extraction Methods, Sources and Applications

In this review, a compilation of articles in databases on the extraction methods and applications of hyaluronic acid (HA) was carried out. HA is a highly hydrated component of different tissues, including connective, epithelial, and neural. It is an anionic, linear glycosaminoglycan (GAG) primarily found in the native extracellular matrix (ECM) of soft connective tissues. Included in the review were studies on the extraction methods (chemical, enzymatical, combined) of HA, describing advantages and disadvantages as well as news methods of extraction. The applications of HA in food are addressed, including oral supplementation, biomaterials, medical research, and pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry applications. Subsequently, we included a section related to the structure and penetration routes of the skin, with emphasis on the benefits of systems for transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers as promoters of percutaneous absorption. Finally, the future trends on the applications of HA were included. This final section contains the effects before, during, and after the application of HA-based products.

Systematic Study of Paeonol/Madecassoside Co-Delivery Nanoemulsion Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Barrier Repair and Anti-Inflammatory Efficacy

Sensitive skin is defined as skin with low tolerance and high reactivity. Natural products, such as paeoniflorin and madecassoside, have unique skin care functionality. However, because they are hampered by the skin barrier, paeoniflorin and madecassoside have difficulty penetrating the stratum corneum, resulting in weakened skin barrier repair and anti-inflammatory effects. In addition, there is a lack of detailed studies on the efficacy of paeonol and madecassic in human skin, especially in 3D skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we developed nanoemulsions (PM-NEs) loaded with paeonol and madecassoside to improve their delivery efficiency and promote sensitive skin repair and anti-inflammation effects. Furthermore, systematic evaluations of the efficacy in cell line models, 3D skin models, and clinical trials were conducted. The PM-NEs effectively improved the efficacy of paeonol and madecassoside glucoside transdermal penetration and retention and enhanced cellular uptake. Cellular assays and 3D epidermal models showed that the PM-NEs significantly promoted the secretion of filamentous protein, aquaporin 3, Claudin-1, and hyaluronic acid, and considerably inhibited the secretion of interleukin 1α, interleukin 6, tumor necrosis factor-α, and prostaglandin E₂ compared to free components. Notably, clinical trial data showed that the PM-NEs significantly reduced transepidermal water loss, a* values, erythropoietin, the amount of non-inflammatory acne, and the amount of inflammatory acne in the facial skin. Three levels of systematic studies suggest that co-delivery of paeoniflorin and madecassoside via nanoemulsions is a promising strategy to improve topical delivery efficiency and anti-inflammatory repair efficacy in sensitive skin.

Label-Free Quantification of Nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters in Cosmetic Hydrogels Using Raman Spectroscopy

Raman spectroscopy is a well-established technique for the molecular characterisation of samples and does not require extensive pre-analytical processing for complex cosmetic products. As an illustration of its potential, this study investigates the quantitative performance of Raman spectroscopy coupled with partial least squares regression (PLSR) for the analysis of Alginate nanoencapsulated Piperonyl Esters (ANC-PE) incorporated into a hydrogel. A total of 96 ANC-PE samples covering a 0.4% w/w-8.3% w/w PE concentration range have been prepared and analysed. Despite the complex formulation of the sample, the spectral features of the PE can be detected and used to quantify the concentrations. Using a leave-K-out cross-validation approach, samples were divided into a training set (n = 64) and a test set, samples that were previously unknown to the PLSR model (n = 32). The root mean square error of cross-validation (RMSECV) and prediction (RMSEP) was evaluated to be 0.142% (w/w PE) and 0.148% (w/w PE), respectively. The accuracy of the prediction model was further evaluated by the percent relative error calculated from the predicted concentration compared to the true value, yielding values of 3.58% for the training set and 3.67% for the test set. The outcome of the analysis demonstrated the analytical power of Raman to obtain label-free, non-destructive quantification of the active cosmetic ingredient, presently PE, in complex formulations, holding promise for future analytical quality control (AQC) applications in the cosmetics industry with rapid and consumable-free analysis.

Barrier function and ultrastructure characteristics of epidermis in patients with primary cutaneous amyloidosis

Previous studies on primary cutaneous amyloidosis (PCA) have mainly focused on exploring genetic mutation and components of amyloid in patients with PCA. However, studies on skin barrier function in PCA patients are scarce. Here, we detected the skin barrier function in PCA patients and healthy people by using noninvasive techniques and characterized ultrastructural features of PCA lesions compared with healthy people using transmission electron microscopy (TEM). The expression of proteins related to skin barrier function was examined by immunohistochemistry staining. A total of 191 patients with clinically diagnosed PCA and 168 healthy individuals were enrolled in the study. Our analysis revealed that all investigated lesion areas displayed higher transepidermal water loss and pH values, and lower Sebum levels and stratum corneum hydration levels in PCA patients compared with the same site area in healthy individuals. The TEM results showed that the intercellular spaces between the basal cells were enlarged and the number of hemidesmosomes decreased in PCA lesions. Immunohistochemical staining showed that the expression of integrin α6 and E-cadherin in PCA patients was less than that in healthy controls, while no differences in the expression of loricrin and filaggrin were observed. Our study revealed that individuals with PCA displayed skin barrier dysfunction, which may be related to alterations in epidermal ultrastructure and a decrease in the skin barrier-related protein E-cadherin. However, the molecular mechanisms underlying skin barrier dysfunction in PCA remain to be elucidated.

Food Peptides for the Nutricosmetic Industry

In recent years, numerous reports have described bioactive peptides (biopeptides)/hydrolysates produced from various food sources. Biopeptides are considered interesting for industrial application since they show numerous functional properties (e.g., anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties) and technological properties (e.g., solubility, emulsifying, and foaming). Moreover, they have fewer side effects than synthetic drugs. Nevertheless, some challenges must be overcome before their administration via the oral route. The gastric, pancreatic, and small intestinal enzymes and acidic stomach conditions can affect their bioavailability and the levels that can reach the site of action. Some delivery systems have been studied to avoid these problems (e.g., microemulsions, liposomes, solid lipid particles). This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted on biopeptides isolated from plants, marine organisms, animals, and biowaste by-products, discusses their potential application in the nutricosmetic industry, and considers potential delivery systems that could maintain their bioactivity. Our results show that food peptides are environmentally sustainable products that can be used as antioxidant, antimicrobial, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory agents in nutricosmetic formulations. Biopeptide production from biowaste requires expertise in analytical procedures and good manufacturing practice. It is hoped that new analytical procedures can be developed to simplify large-scale production and that the authorities adopt and regulate use of appropriate testing standards to guarantee the population's safety.

Systematic Study of Resveratrol Nanoliposomes Transdermal Delivery System for Enhancing Anti-Aging and Skin-Brightening Efficacy

Due to the stratum corneum barrier, resveratrol is difficult to be absorbed transdermally, limiting its anti-aging and skin-brightening effects. Furthermore, there is a lack of systematic studies on the efficacy of resveratrol in human skin, especially in three-dimensional skin models and clinical trials. To overcome the low transdermal delivery issue, we encapsulated resveratrol into nanoliposomes using the high-pressure homogenization method to develop an efficient transdermal drug delivery system, and systematically evaluated its anti-aging and skin-brightening efficacy via cell line models, a three-dimensional skin model and human skin. The resveratrol nanoliposomes effectively improved the transdermal penetration and retention of resveratrol and enhanced cellular uptake. In addition, compared to free resveratrol, resveratrol nanoliposomes remarkably enhanced the skin-care effects by promoting the antioxidant capacity and collagen synthesis, inhibiting the secretion of matrix metalloproteinases, tyrosine activity and melanin synthesis. Notably, human clinical trials proved the anti-wrinkle and skin-brightening effectiveness of resveratrol nanoliposomes. Three levels of systematic studies indicated that resveratrol nanoliposomes could be a promising transdermal drug delivery system to enhance the anti-aging and skin-brightening effects of resveratrol.

Co-Encapsulation of Drugs for Topical Application-A Review

Achieving the best possible outcome for the therapy is the main goal of a medicine. Therefore, nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies were invented to meet this need, as they can benefit many diseases. This approach was applied specifically for cancer treatment, with some success. However, these strategies may benefit many other clinical issues. Skin is the largest and most exposed organ of the human body, with physiological and psychological properties. Due to its exposition and importance, it is not difficult to understand how many skin diseases may impact on patients' lives, representing an important burden for society. Thus, this review aims to summarize the state of the art in research concerning nanocarriers and co-delivery strategies for topical agents' applications targeting skin diseases. The challenge for the medicine of the future is to deliver the drug with spatial and temporal control. Therefore, the co-encapsulation of drugs and the appropriate form of administration for them are so important and remain as unmet needs.

Global Trends of Cosmeceutical in Nanotechnology: A Review

Nanotechnology suggests different innovative solutions to augment the worth of cosmetic products through the targeted delivery of content that manifests scientific innovation in research and development. Different nanosystems, like liposomes, niosomes, microemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, nanoform lipid carriers, nanoemulsions, and nanospheres, are employed in cosmetics. These nanosystems exhibit various innovative cosmetic functions, including site-specific targeting, controlled content release, more stability, improved skin penetration and enhanced entrapment efficiency of loaded compounds. Thus, cosmeceuticals are assumed as the highest-progressing fragment of the personal care industries that have progressed drastically over the years. In recent decades, cosmetic science has widened the origin of its application in different fields. Nanosystems in cosmetics are beneficial in treating different conditions like hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, dandruff, photoaging and hair damage. This review highlights the different nanosystems used in cosmetics for the targeted delivery of loaded content and commercially available formulations. Moreover, this review article has delineated different patented nanocosmetic formulation nanosystems and future aspects of nanocarriers in cosmetics.

Fabrication of High-Resolution Fine Microneedles Derived from Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Gels in Vacuum Environment Imprinting Using Water Permeable Mold

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid high-resolution fine microneedles of 13 µm in diameter and 24 µm in height were fabricated from hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid gels made in mixtures of water using vacuum environment imprint lithography processes with a water permeable mold. The gas traps of water and volatile solvents in the imprint materials cause transfer failure in the conventional water impermeable molds of quartz and metal. However, the water permeable mold allows the use of 67 wt% dilution water with high solubility to increase the fluidity of the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid during the patterning of high-resolution fine microneedles for cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. This demonstration sets a new paradigm of functional pure gels for high-resolution nano-patterning applications with various cosmetic and pharmaceutical materials containing dilution water using a water permeable mold.

An Update on Photodynamic Therapy of Psoriasis—Current Strategies and Nanotechnology as a Future Perspective

Psoriasis (PS) is an immune-mediated skin disease with substantial negative effects on patient quality of life. Despite significant progress in the development of novel treatment options over the past few decades, a high percentage of patients with psoriasis remain undertreated and require new medications with superior long-term efficacy and safety. One of the most promising treatment options against psoriatic lesions is a form of phototherapy known as photodynamic therapy (PDT), which involves either the systemic or local application of a cell-targeting photosensitizing compound, followed by selective illumination of the lesion with visible light. However, the effectiveness of clinically incorporated photosensitizers in psoriasis treatment is limited, and adverse effects such as pain or burning sensations are frequently reported. In this study, we performed a literature review and attempted to provide a pooled estimate of the efficacy and short-term safety of targeted PDT in the treatment of psoriasis. Despite some encouraging results, PDT remains clinically underutilized. This highlights the need for further studies that will aim to evaluate the efficacy of a wider spectrum of photosensitizers and the potential of nanotechnology in psoriasis treatment.

Beneath the Skin: A Review of Current Trends and Future Prospects of Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems

The ideal drug delivery system has a bioavailability comparable to parenteral dosage forms but is as convenient and easy to use for the patient as oral solid dosage forms. In recent years, there has been increased interest in transdermal drug delivery (TDD) as a non-invasive delivery approach that is generally regarded as being easy to administer to more vulnerable age groups, such as paediatric and geriatric patients, while avoiding certain bioavailability concerns that arise from oral drug delivery due to poor absorbability and metabolism concerns. However, despite its many merits, TDD remains restricted to a select few drugs. The physiology of the skin poses a barrier against the feasible delivery of many drugs, limiting its applicability to only those drugs that possess physicochemical properties allowing them to be successfully delivered transdermally. Several techniques have been developed to enhance the transdermal permeability of drugs. Both chemical (e.g., thermal and mechanical) and passive (vesicle, nanoparticle, nanoemulsion, solid dispersion, and nanocrystal) techniques have been investigated to enhance the permeability of drug substances across the skin. Furthermore, hybrid approaches combining chemical penetration enhancement technologies with physical technologies are being intensively researched to improve the skin permeation of drug substances. This review aims to summarize recent trends in TDD approaches and discuss the merits and drawbacks of the various chemical, physical, and hybrid approaches currently being investigated for improving drug permeability across the skin.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Clinical Anti-aging Efficacy of Propolis Polymeric Nanoparticles Prepared by a Temperature-induced Phase Transition Method

BACKGROUND

Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti-aging efficacy.

METHODS & RESULTS

Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature-induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75 nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy-terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase-1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%-24.59% compared to blank (p < 0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%-31.52% compared to blank (p < 0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents.

Encapsulated Activated Grape Seed Extract: A Novel Formulation with Anti-Aging, Skin-Brightening, and Hydration Properties

Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. AGSE is a purple-colored powder, with limited solubility restricting its use in a broad range of formulations. Our aim was to develop a formulation that reduced the color and increased the solubility of AGSE, allowing its skin-health-enhancing properties to be utilized in a wider array of products, and to test it clinically. Encapsulation was performed utilizing a liposome and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, (HPCD)-based approach to produce Encapsulated AGSE (E-AGSE). Human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were used to determine expression levels of aging and dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) markers. EpiDerm™ was UVB-irradiated to measure the effects against cytokine release, DNA damage, apoptosis, and skin barrier. Human melanocytes were used to determine melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase was used for inhibitory activity. A 4-week, 31-subject sensitive-skin clinical was performed with 2% E-AGSE Essence to assess its activity on human skin. We demonstrated that E-AGSE inhibits PP2A demethylation, increases key anti-aging (collagen I, III, elastin) and DEJ markers, protects against UVB-induced DNA damage, reduces inflammation, and promotes filaggrin in vitro. Moreover, E-AGSE reduces melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. Clinical assessment of E-AGSE showed that it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens the skin, and boosts hydration. E-AGSE is a novel grape seed extract formulation enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids that is clinically effective in sensitive skin, providing several benefits.

Skin Care Formulations and Lipid Carriers as Skin Moisturizing Agents

Skin care formulations have evolved as the interaction of health and beauty products for the skin. Their benefits are based on the combination of cosmetic active ingredients and targeted application. Cosmetic actives have been used in novel formulations for decades (sunscreens, anti-aging treatments, etc.), but the problems with their low solubility, low penetration, and physicochemical instability when applied to the skin have yet to be solved. One way to circumvent these shortcomings is to use lipid carriers, which are known to play an important role in the solubility of poorly soluble compounds by facilitating skin permeation and improving stability. This review addresses recent advances in skin care products that use novel nanotechnology-based lipid systems (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc.) to deliver moisturizing cosmetic actives and improve product efficacy.

Nanosystems in Cosmetic Products: A Brief Overview of Functional, Market, Regulatory and Safety Concerns

Nanosystems exhibit various innovative physico-chemical properties as well as a range of cosmetic functions, including increased skin retention for loaded compounds. The worldwide nano-market has therefore been consistently extensive in recent decades. This review summarizes the most important properties of nanosystems that are employed in cosmetics, including composition, functions and interactions with skin, with particular attention being paid to marketed products. Moreover, the worldwide regulatory landscape of nanomaterials used as cosmetic ingredients is considered, and the main safety concerns are indicated. In general, advanced physico-chemical characterization is preliminarily needed to assess the safety of nanomaterials for human health and the environment. However, there is currently a shortfall in global legislation as a universally accepted and unambiguous definition of a nanomaterial is still lacking. Therefore, each country follows its own regulations. Anyhow, the main safety concerns arise from the European context, which is the most restrictive. Accordingly, the poor dermal permeation of nanomaterials generally limits their potential toxic effects, which should be mainly ascribed to unwanted or accidental exposure routes.