Skin Whitening Cosmetics: Feedback and Challenges in the Development of Natural Skin Lighteners

Bee pollen peptides as potent tyrosinase inhibitors with anti-melanogenesis effects in murine b16f10 melanoma cells and zebrafish embryos

One important functional food ingredient today, valued for its health properties and ability to prevent disease, is bee pollen, which comprises a combination of nectar, pollen from plants, and the secretions of bees. In this research, the tyrosinase (TYR) inhibiting abilities of the peptides derived from bee pollen protein hydrolysates are investigated. Various proteases were utilized to generate these peptides, followed by testing at different concentrations. Tyrosinase inhibition activity was detected in all cases, while the hydrolysate drawn from 5.0% w/v neutrase exhibited the best IC50 value and was thus investigated further via ultrafiltration to separate the active fractions. The highest potential for tyrosinase inhibition was recorded for the fractions below 0.65 kDa. Subsequent purification steps via SEC and RP-HPLC led to the identification of the VDGYPAAGY (named VY-9) peptide via LC-Q-TOF-MS/MS in fraction F1-2, known for its non-toxic and hydrophobic characteristics albeit poor water solubility. The synthesized VY-9 peptide demonstrated competitive inhibition, with IC50 values of 0.55 ± 0.03 µM for mono-phenolase and 2.54 ± 0.06 µM for di-phenolase activities, as confirmed by molecular docking analysis revealing dominant hydrogen bond interactions with TYR. Effective concentrations of 0.2-1.6 µM of VY-9 showed negligible cytotoxicity in B16F10 cells. Melanin synthesis suppression was examined via qRT-PCR, and western blot in MITF, TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2. Cell death in zebrafish embryos was evaluated in vivo using a toxicity assay which revealed no significant influence from VY-9, while anti-melanogenic effects were observed when the concentration was 4 µM, suggesting bee pollen-derived peptides' potential in cosmetic and pharmaceutical depigmentation applications.

The dark side of beauty: an in-depth analysis of the health hazards and toxicological impact of synthetic cosmetics and personal care products

Over the past three decades, the popularity of cosmetic and personal care products has skyrocketed, largely driven by social media influence and the propagation of unrealistic beauty standards, especially among younger demographics. These products, promising enhanced appearance and self-esteem, have become integral to contemporary society. However, users of synthetic, chemical-based cosmetics are exposed to significantly higher risks than those opting for natural alternatives. The use of synthetic products has been associated with a variety of chronic diseases, including cancer, respiratory conditions, neurological disorders, and endocrine disruption. This review explores the toxicological impact of beauty and personal care products on human health, highlighting the dangers posed by various chemicals, the rise of natural ingredients, the intricate effects of chemical mixtures, the advent of nanotechnology in cosmetics, and the urgent need for robust regulatory measures to ensure safety. The paper emphasizes the necessity for thorough safety assessments, ethical ingredient sourcing, consumer education, and collaboration between governments, regulatory bodies, manufacturers, and consumers. As we delve into the latest discoveries and emerging trends in beauty product regulation and safety, it is clear that the protection of public health and well-being is a critical concern in this ever-evolving field.

Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein inhibits melanogenesis through PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways

OBJECTIVE

Hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) derived from pearl and nacre extracts exerts skin-lightening effects; however, the underlying molecular mechanisms are not fully understood. Herein, we investigated the effect of HCP on melanogenesis and the signalling pathways involved.

METHODS

B16F10 cells and PIG cells were treated with HCP to verify its ability to inhibit melanin. Western Blot, immunofluorescence, and flow cytometry methods were performed to investigate the effect of HCP on melanogenesis signalling pathway proteins. The inhibitors were used to further validate the effect of HCP on PKA/CREB and MEK/ERK signalling pathways. To further evaluate the whitening ability of HCP, changes in melanin were detected using 3D melanin skin model and zebrafish model.

RESULTS

HCP was found to significantly inhibit melanin synthesis and decrease the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, in a dose-dependent manner. Additionally, we revealed that HCP suppresses melanogenesis via the regulation of the PKA/cAMP response element-binding (CREB) and MEK/extracellular signalling-regulated kinase (ERK) signalling pathways. Using 3D melanin skin models, we demonstrated that HCP can achieve skin-lightening effects by improving apparent chroma, increasing apparent brightness, and inhibiting melanin synthesis. Furthermore, HCP exhibits skin-whitening effects in a zebrafish model.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that HCP suppresses the melanogenesis signalling cascade by inhibiting the PKA/CREB, MEK/ERK signalling pathway and downregulating MITF and its downstream signalling pathways, resulting in decreased melanin synthesis. In summary, HCP is a potential anti-pigmentation agent with promising applications in cosmetics and pharmaceutical products.

Melanin Inhibitory Effect of Tuber himalayense Isolated in Incheon, Korea

There has been a growing interest in skin beauty and antimelanogenic products. Melanogenesis is the process of melanin synthesis whereby melanocytes are activated by UV light or hormone stimulation to produce melanin. Melanogenesis is mediated by several enzymes, such as tyrosinase (TYR), microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2. In this study, we investigated the effect of Tuber himalayense extract on melanin synthesis in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-treated B16F10 melanoma cells. We confirmed that T. himalayense extract was not toxic to α-MSH-treated B16F10 melanoma cells and exhibited a significant inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis at concentrations of 25, 50, and 100 μg/ml. Additionally, the T. himalayense extract inhibited melanin, TRP-1, TRP-2, tyrosinase, and MITF, which are enzymes involved in melanin synthesis, in a concentration-dependent manner. Furthermore, T. himalayense extract inhibited the mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) pathways, such as extracellular signal-regulated kinase-1/2 (ERK), c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and p38. Therefore, we hypothesized that various components of T. himalayense extract affect multiple factors involved in melanogenesis in B16F10 cells. Our results indicate that T. himalayense extract could potentially be used as a new material for preparing whitening cosmetics.

Assessing the Chemical Composition, Antioxidant and enzyme Inhibitory Effects of Pentapleura subulifera and Cyclotrichium glabrescens Extracts

The Lamiaceae family, encompassing diverse plant species, holds significant value in food, medicine, and cosmetics. Within this family, Pentapleura subulifera and Cyclotrichium glabrescens, relatively unexplored species, were investigated for their chemical composition, antioxidant capacity, and enzyme-inhibiting effects. The chemical composition of hexane, methanolic, and aqueous extracts from P. subulifera and C. glabrescens were analyzed using LC-ESI-MS/MS and the non-polar hexane fraction was investigated via GC-MS. The antioxidant potential of the extracts was determined through radical scavenging, reducing power and metal chelating assays. Additionally, inhibitory activity against six enzymes - acetylcholinesterase (AChE), butyrylcholinesterase (BChE), tyrosinase, amylase, and glucosidase - was examined. The aqueous extract of P. subulifera and the methanolic extract of C. glabrescens exhibited elevated phenolic content at 129.47 mg gallic acid equivalent (GAE)/g and 55.97 mg GAE/g, respectively. Chemical profiling of the constituents of the two plant species resulted in the identification of a total of twenty compounds. The majority of which belonged to flavonoids and quinic acid derivatives, primarily concentrated in the methanol and aqueous extracts. Among all antioxidant assays, the aqueous extracts of P. subulifera demonstrated superior antioxidant activity, with the highest recorded activity of 404.93 mg trolox equivalent (TE)/g in the cupric reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC) test. Meanwhile, the hexane extract of C. glabrescens exhibited the highest AChE inhibitory activity at 2.71 mg galanthamine equivalent (GALAE)/g, followed by the methanol extract of P. subulifera at 2.41 mg GALAE/g. These findings unequivocally establish the notable antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activity of P. subulifera and C. glabrescens extracts, underscoring their potential as a source of valuable natural antioxidants.

Heavy metal and microbial testing of selected cosmetic products in the Palestinian market

Excessive and continuous use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals can lead to harmful effects. International regulations mandate limited quantities of heavy metals contamination in cosmetic preparations to ensure consumer safety. This research aims to evaluate heavy metal and microbial contamination levels in selected cosmetic products available in the Palestinian market. We collected 35 samples randomly from 23 companies, representing four product types, and analyzed them for the presence of seven heavy metals: zinc (Zn), cadmium (Cd), lead (Pb), chromium (Cr), iron (Fe), copper (Cu), and arsenic (As) using an atomic absorption spectrometer. We also interviewed pharmacists who sold these cosmetics to assess their knowledge of allowed limits and toxic effects associated with increased heavy metal content in cosmetics. The results indicated that all tested products exceeded the allowed limit for Cd (9.5 ± 2.3 ppm), Cu (33.8 ± 9.2 ppm), and Zn (151.0 ± 7.4 ppm). However, none of the tested samples showed microbial contamination. These findings underscore the significant heavy metal contamination of cosmetics present in the Palestinian market. Thus, there is a pressing need to register and quality-test all cosmetic products sold in the Palestinian market and to raise the pharmacists' awareness and knowledge regarding heavy metals in cosmetics.

Assessment and computational bioevaluation of heavy metals from selected cosmetic products

Heavy metal toxicity in environment has been an increasing issue for last decades, though now the attention has diverted to presence of heavy metals in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to determine the concentration of selected heavy metals in cosmetic products (lipsticks and foundations) using ICP-OES. Health risk assessment was done by using hazard quotient (HQ) and hazard index (HI). HQ for lipsticks was below the safe limit (HQ = < 1) while for foundations it exceeded the safe limit (HQ = >1). Mostly, mercury (Hg) and iron (Fe) were found to be exceeding the permissible limit, the allowed limits are Hg, 1 ppm; Fe, 10 ppm; Cd, 0.3 ppm; and Cr, 1 ppm. Iron was found to be highest in lipsticks (123.86 ± 1.05 ppm) as well as in foundations (34.52 ± 0.08 ppm). Health risk assessment was done by using hazard quotient (HQ) and hazard index (HI). HQ for lipsticks was below the safe limit (HQ = < 1) while for foundations it exceeded the safe limit (HQ = >1). To understand the binding pattern of heavy metals to skin targets, molecular docking studies were carried out. This revealed the potentially harmful behavior of these heavy metals on the skin. This will provide new direction for the structural changes of consistence and activity of macromolecules in our body. Research proved that prolonged use of cosmetic products containing heavy metals can be harmful and sometimes fatal to human life as these heavy metals can penetrate through the skin and target the skin enzymes, disrupting their normal function leading to various skin related issues such as dermatitis (itching, redness, burning) hence the monitoring of cosmetic products is necessary for safety of human being.

The effect of low-intensity cold atmospheric plasma jet on photoaging-induced hyperpigmentation in mouse model

BACKGROUND

Cold atmospheric plasma (CAP) produces reactive oxygen/nitrogen species (RONS) in the target and can induce cytoprotective effects by activating hormesis-related pathways when its intensity is in the low range.

OBJECTIVES

The aim of this study is to evaluate the effect of low-intensified CAP (LICAP) on skin with photoaging-induced hyperpigmentation in an animal model.

METHODS

Changes in cell viability and RONS production following LICAP treatment were measured. For the in vivo study, 30 hairless mice underwent antecedent photoaging induction followed by the allocated therapy (i.e., LICAP, topical ascorbic acid (AA), or both). During the first 4 weeks of the treatment period (8 weeks), ultraviolet (UV)-B irradiation was concurrently administered. Visual inspection and measurement of the melanin index (MI) were performed to assess the change in skin pigmentation at Weeks 0, 2, 4, 6, and 8.

RESULTS

RONS production increased linearly until the saturation point. Cell viability was not significantly affected by LICAP treatment. At Week 8, MI was significantly decreased in every treatment group compared with the values at Week 0 and Week 4. The treatment effect of the concurrent therapy group was superior to that of the LICAP and AA groups.

CONCLUSION

LICAP appears to be a novel modality for photoprotection and pigment reduction in photodamaged skin. LICAP treatment and topical AA application seem to exert a synergistic effect.

The in vitro effects of black soldier fly larvae (Hermitia illucens) oil as a high-functional active ingredient for inhibiting hyaluronidase, anti-oxidation benefits, whitening, and UVB protection

Objective: Larvae of Hermitia illucens, or black soldier fly larvae (BSFL), have been recognized for their high lipid yield with a remarkable fatty acid profile. BSFL oil (SFO) offers the added value of a low environmental footprint and a sustainable product. In this study, the characteristics and cosmetic-related activities of SFO were investigated and compared with rice bran oil, olive oil and krill oil which are commonly used in cosmetics and supplements. Methods: The physicochemical characteristics were determined including acid value, saponification value, unsaponifiable matter and water content of SFO. The fatty acid composition was determined using GC-MS equipped with TR-FAME. The in vitro antioxidant properties were determined using DPPH, FRAP and lipid peroxidation inhibition assays. Antihyaluronidase (anti-HAase) activity was measured by detecting enzyme activity and molecular docking of candidate compounds toward the HAase enzyme. The safety assessment towards normal human cells was determined using the MTT assay and the UVB protection upon UVB-irradiated fibroblasts was determined using the DCF-DA assay. The whitening effect of SFO was determined using melanin content inhibition. Results: SFO contains more than 60% polyunsaturated fatty acids followed by saturated fatty acids (up to 37%). The most abundant component found in SFO was linoleic acid (C18:2 n-6 cis). Multiple anti-oxidant mechanisms of SFO were discovered. In addition, SFO and krill oil prevented hyaluronic acid (HA) degradation via strong HAase inhibition comparable with the positive control, oleanolic acid. The molecular docking confirmed the binding interactions and molecular recognition of major free fatty acids toward HAase. Furthermore, SFO exhibited no cytotoxicity on primary human skin fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes and PBMCs (IC50 values > 200 μg/mL). SFO possessed significant in-situ anti-oxidant activity in UVB-irradiated fibroblasts and the melanin inhibition activity as effective as well-known anti-pigmenting compounds (kojic acid and arbutin, p < 0.05). Conclusion: This study provides scientific support for various aspects of SFO. SFO can be considered an alternative oil ingredient in cosmetic products with potential implications for anti-skin aging, whitening and UVB protection properties, making it a potential candidate oil in the cosmetic industry.

Concern on Skin Lightening Product Safety: Level of Awareness and Associated Factors Among Female Users in Bahir Dar City, Ethiopia

Background

Most skin lightening products are composed of some toxic chemicals such as mercury and hydroquinone which are classified under critical ingredients which need evaluation. Consumption without sufficient awareness may lead to toxicities endangering skin health.

Objective

The aim of this study was to assess the level of awareness towards the side effects of skin lightening products and associated factors among females in Bahir Dar city, Ethiopia.

Methods

An institutional-based cross-sectional study design was conducted in Bahir Dar city from June 28 to August 28, 2022 among females that had been using skin whitening. Samples of 362 females were selected by using multistage sampling technique from selected drug retail outlets. The data was coded, cleaned, and analyzed by using SPSS version 26. The variables were analyzed through multiple regression in order to identify the associated factors towards the level of awareness on the side effects of skin lightening products.

Results

Only 42.7% of the respondents had a favorable level of awareness. The highly influencing factors for using skin lightening products were peer pressure (39.9%) and social media (37.4%). Nearly half of the users experienced side effects. Only 8.9% of the respondents know the active ingredients of the products. Level of education was found to have significant association with level of awareness (AOR = 7.66, 95% CI: (1.23, 47.59); P = 0.029).

Conclusion

Only less than half of women have favorable awareness towards skin lightening products they use. The significant association between educational level and level of awareness should be considered as an alternative intervention in addition to regulatory restrictions.

Azelaic Acid Versus Hydroquinone for Managing Patients With Melasma: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Melasma, a commonly acquired hyperpigmentation skin condition, is usually treated with topical agents as the first line of management. This systematic review and meta-analysis aimed to assess the efficacy and safety of azelaic acid versus hydroquinone in treating melasma patients. We conducted a comprehensive search across four online databases (PubMed, Scopus, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library) from the time of their creation until May 28, 2023. We considered randomized controlled studies comparing hydroquinone with azelaic acid for the treatment of melasma patients. We used the Cochrane Risk of Bias tool 2 to evaluate the risk of bias. The mean difference (MD) for continuous variables and the risk ratio (RR) for categorical variables, with a 95% confidence interval (CI) were pooled. Six studies were included, with a total of 673 patients with melasma. The azelaic acid had a lower mean change in melasma area severity index (MASI) than the hydroquinone group [MD= -1.23, 95% CI (-2.05, -0.40), P=0.004]. No difference was observed regarding the improvement via the objective response scale, the reduction in pigmentation, or the adverse events reported. However, despite not being statistically significantly different, there was a trend towards having more good responses in the azelaic acid group. Azelaic acid may be better than hydroquinone in reducing melasma severity (measured by MASI). However, larger studies with long-term follow-up are needed to validate these findings.

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic' beneficial effects.

Biopigments of Microbial Origin and Their Application in the Cosmetic Industry

Along with serving as a source of color, many microbial pigments have gained attention as interesting bioactive molecules with potential health advantages. These pigments have several applications in the food, agrochemical, medicine, and cosmetic industries. They have attracted the attention of these industries due to their high production value, low cost, stability, and biodegradability. Recently, many consumers worldwide have noted the impact of synthetic dyes; thus, natural pigments are more in demand than synthetic colors. On the other hand, the cosmetic industry has been moving toward greener manufacturing, from the formulation to the packaging material. Microbial pigments have several applications in the field of cosmetics due to their photoprotection, antioxidant, and antiaging properties, including inhibiting melanogenesis and acting as natural colorants for cosmetics, as some microorganisms are rich in pigments. More investigations are required to estimate the safety and efficacy of employing microbial pigments in cosmetic products. Furthermore, it is necessary to obtain information about DNA sequencing, metabolic pathways, and genetic engineering. In addition, unique habitats should be explored for novel pigments and new producing strains. Thus, new microbial pigments could be of consideration to the cosmetic industry, as they are ideal for future cosmetics with positive health effects.

Benefits of skin application of piceatannol-A minireview

The skin is the largest organ of the human body and has several functions such as barrier against external agents, the maintenance of temperature and homeostatic functions. Skin ageing is a natural process that can be influenced by environmental factors, intrinsic skin factors and lifestyle. UV light plays an important role in skin ageing and can cause spots, requiring the use of depigmenting agents. Nowadays, there is a great demand for ingredients that prevent skin ageing, with natural agents occupying a promising position. Among the natural agents, polyphenols, such as resveratrol and piceatannol, found in grapes, passion fruits and other fruits, have a huge relevance. Great benefits of piceatannol have been reported, so thus, this work focuses specifically on a review of the literature regarding the application of this polyphenol in skin care products. This polyphenol can be used in a wound-healing, or as anti-ageing, antioxidant, anti-acne and skin whitening, among other effects.

Melanin Treatment Effect of Vacuoles-Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles Combined with Ascorbic Acid

Currently, ascorbic acid (AA) is widely used as a skin whitening material, but, AA, an unstable hydrophilic molecule, cannot penetrate the skin easily, due to the hydrophobic character of the stratum corneum. Therefore, we conjugated AA with hydrated zinc oxide-an inorganic matrix with positive surface charge, to improve the stability of AA. The metal-conjugated-ascorbic acid (ZnAA) was then combined with yeast vacuole through the vacuolar membrane proteins that relate to metal transportation to create an enhanced vacuole that contained ZnAA. The characteristics of vacuole with ZnAA (ZnAA_Vac) were next examined by various tests that included X-ray diffraction (XRD), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), Field emission scanning electron microscopy (FE-SEM), and energy-dispersive X-ray (EDX) analysis. Furthermore, the ability of ZnAA_Vac to degrade melanin was confirmed in both melanoma cell line B16F10, and the artificial human skin MelanoDerm. The results showed that ZnAA_Vac possessed a higher depigmenting effect than the wild-type vacuole or ascorbic acid by reducing 75% of melanin color. Interestingly, ZnAA_Vac was found to be harmless, and did not cause any cytotoxicity to the cells. Overall, ZnAA_Vac is expected to provide a robust, harmless, and effective whitening agent for the skin.

Review on the Use of Kojic Acid—A Skin-Lightening Ingredient

This article reviews the use of Kojic Acid (KA) as a skin-lightening ingredient in the cosmetics industry. In 1907, Saito discovered KA, a natural product; it has since become one of the most investigated skin-lightening agents. This paper highlights the findings of the research conducted on this agent. It has been found that KA has certain disadvantages, and researchers have attempted to mitigate these disadvantages by designing new equivalents of KA that are more efficient in tyrosinase inhibition. These equivalents are also safe to use and have improved properties and solubility. The Cosmeceutical Ingredient Review (CIR) indicates that this ingredient can be safely used at a concentration not higher than 1% due to its cytotoxicity. Other scientific data also support its safety at a concentration of 2% or less. It was shown to be helpful in the treatment of hyper pigmentary disorders, such as freckles, age spots, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and melasma, which has been proven clinically.

Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

As the market size of the cosmetics industry increases, the safety and effectiveness of new products face higher requirements. The marine environment selects for species of micro-organisms with metabolic pathways and adaptation mechanisms different from those of terrestrial organisms, resulting in their natural products exhibiting unique structures, high diversity, and significant biological activities. Natural products are usually safe and non-polluting. Therefore, considerable effort has been devoted to searching for cosmetic ingredients that are effective, safe, and natural for marine micro-organisms. However, marine micro-organisms can be difficult, or impossible, to culture because of their special environmental requirements. Metagenomics technology can help to solve this problem. Moreover, using marine species to produce more green and environmentally friendly products through biotransformation has become a new choice for cosmetic manufacturers. In this study, the natural products of marine micro-organisms are reviewed and evaluated with respect to various cosmetic applications.

Ozonized glycerin (OG)‐based cosmetic products lighten age spots on human facial skin

Background

Aims

Methods

Results

Conclusion

Spreading of Dangerous Skin-Lightening Products as a Result of Colourism: A Review

The use of bleaching products can have a medical or cosmetic purpose; in the latter case, skin whitening is most widespread in countries where darker skin tones prevail and can be driven by psychosocial, cultural and economic reasons. Skin-whitening products containing highly toxic active ingredients (in particular mercury derivatives, hydroquinone and corticosteroids) are easily found on the market; the use of these depigmenting agents can be followed by a variety of adverse effects, with very serious and sometimes fatal complications, and is currently an emerging health concern in many countries. This article concisely discusses the reasons for the current prevalence of skin lightening products and provides an overview of the skin lightening agents that pose a threat to human health. The review also reports market surveillance data on the circulation of banned skin lighteners in Europe, obtained through the Safety Gate system.

Inhibitory effects and underlying mechanisms of Artemisia capillaris essential oil on melanogenesis in the B16F10 cell line

The present study investigated the anti-melanogenic activity of 10 essential oils using the B16F10 cell model. Initially, a wide range of concentrations of these essential oils were screened in order to determine their toxicity levels. The assigned non-toxic concentrations of the tested essential oils were then used to evaluate their effects on melanogenesis. The effects of the essential oils with potent anti-melanogenic activity on cell proliferation, protection against H₂O₂-induced cell death and the expression of certain melanogenesis-related genes, including MITF, tyrosinase, tyrosinase related protein (TRP)-1 and TRP-2 were also evaluated. The results revealed that the essential oils extracted from Citrus unshiu, Juniperus chinensis L., Zanthoxylum piperitum and Artemisia capillaris (A. capillaris) inhibited melanogenesis. However, among these four extracts, only A. capillaris extract enhanced cell proliferation, exhibited anti-H₂O₂ activities and decreased the expression level of TRP-1. It was demonstrated that A. capillaris extract inhibited melanin synthesis via the downregulation of the TRP-1 translational level. These essential oil extracts, particularly that of A. capillaris, may thus be used as natural anti-melanogenic agents for therapeutic purposes and in the cosmetic industry for skin whitening effects with beneficial proliferative properties. However, further studies using in vivo models are required to validate these findings and to examine the effects of these extracts on various molecular pathways.

Determination of potentially toxic metals in depilatory products in the Iranian markets: human health risk assessment

This study aimed to investigate the concentrations of heavy metals, including lead (Pb), cadmium (Cd), chromium (Cr), zinc (Zn), cobalt (Co), and arsenic metalloid (As), to assess their health risks in the popular depilatory products of the Iranian markets. Twenty-one samples of 7 popular brands of depilatory products, inclusive of cream and powder, were examined. Selected elements were measured by inductively coupled plasma optical emission spectrometry (ICP-OES) using the appropriate procedure for acid digestion and the measurement of heavy metal contents. The differences in heavy metal concentrations were investigated according to the type of product, brand, country of production, and product price using t test and one-way analysis of variance and post hoc Tukey test. Finally, carcinogenic and non-carcinogenic risk assessments were calculated for the studied elements. The results showed that Pb (5.46±2.30 mg/kg) and Co (0.16±0.69 mg/kg) had the highest and lowest concentrations in these products, respectively. In general, the concentration of heavy metals in depilatory creams was less than the concentration of elements in depilatory powders and less than the maximum allowable limits as defined by the Institute of Standards and Industrial Research of Iran (ISIRI). There was a direct and significant relationship between the concentration of heavy metals in depilatory powders and the product's price. Moreover, the amount of As in one of the brands of depilatory powder was determined to exceed the standard value (2 mg/kg). Also, hazard index (HI) and lifetime cancer risk (LCR) were below 1 and 10-6, respectively, which indicated that this mentioned heavy metal had no probable non-carcinogenic and carcinogenic risks for consumers. According to this study, it was evident that the chances of cancer and non-cancer risk using depilatory products were unlikely, but continuous use can be harmful due to the excessive accumulation of these heavy metals.

Analysis of factors influencing skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants: Results from a large-scale patch test dataset in China

BACKGROUND

Cosmetic products are widely used in daily life and can cause skin reactions. However, to date, few studies have investigated the prevalence and associated factors of skin reactions to different types of cosmetic products using patch test results.

OBJECTIVES

To investigate the frequency and associated factors of skin reactions to sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants using patch test results in China.

METHODS

This cross-sectional analysis used data collected during 2004-2017 at the Shanghai Skin Disease Hospital, China. Skin reactions were measured using patch tests following internationally standardized protocols.

RESULTS

In total, 151 280 patch tests comprising 16 477 cosmetic products conducted in 4029 healthy volunteers were analyzed. The frequencies of skin reactions to different cosmetic products were 1.07%, 1.28%, and 4.41% for sunscreens, skin whitening products, and deodorants, respectively. With increasing age, a higher frequency of reactions to sunscreens in women (p < 0.001) and a lower frequency of reactions to skin whitening products in men (p < 0.05) were observed. In addition, men were more likely to develop skin reactions to deodorants compared to women (p < 0.05). Skin reactions were more frequent in winter (p < 0.05), which was true for different types of cosmetic products.

CONCLUSIONS

The frequency of patch testing for different cosmetic products was 1.07-4.41%. The effects of age, sex, and season vary among the different types of cosmetic products. We hope that these findings can offer guidance for a healthy skincare concept.

Anti-Melanogenic Activity of Calocedrus formosana Wood Essential Oil and Its Chemical Composition Analysis

Calocedrus formosana (Cupressaceae) is one of the five precious woods of Taiwan. In this study, we investigated the anti-melanogenic activity of C. formosana wood essential oil (CFEO) and its bioactive components in vitro. Initially, CFEO exhibited strong mushroom tyrosinase activity in the cell-free mushroom tyrosinase assay system with an IC₅₀ value of 2.72 µg/mL. Next, treatment with CFEO significantly as well as dose-dependently reduced a combination of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone and forskolin (α-MSH-FSK)-induced melanin synthesis in B16-F10 cells. Indeed, 80 μg/mL CFEO completely inhibited melanin production, which is similar to that of control cells. Further studies revealed that treatment with CFEO significantly inhibited melanogenesis regulatory proteins, including TRP-1, TRP-2, and MITF, whereas tyrosinase was unaffected by either α-MSH-FSK or CFEO. In addition, the composition of the CFEO was characterized. The major components of CFEO were α-terpineol (23.47%), shonanic acid (10.45%), terpinen-4-ol (12.23%), thymol (5.3%), piperitone (3.44%), berbenone (2.81%), thujic acid (1.65%), and chaminic acid (0.13%). Among them, shonanic acid (1), thujic acid (2), and chaminic acid (3) were uncommon constitutes in essential oils, which could be the index compounds of CFEO, and the structure of these compounds were confirmed by spectral analysis. Furthermore, we found that thymol is an active ingredient responsible for CFEO's anti-melanogenic activity. Based on these results, we suggest that CFEO or thymol could be a potential candidate for the development of skin whitening products for cosmetic purposes.

Light makeup decreases receivers' negative emotional experience

Makeup is widely used in modern society and has a positive effect on perceived attractiveness. However, little is known about the other possible outcomes of makeup use. In this study, we investigated whether makeup enhances a receiver's emotional experience. Dynamic faces with or without makeup are presented in Experiments 1 and 2. Participants were asked to imagine themselves video chatting with a target person (expresser) with different expressions: neutral, angry, sad, or happy, and then to appraise their own subjective emotional experience. Emotional valence, arousal, and willingness to communicate were also assessed in Experiment 2. The results showed that makeup improved perceived facial attractiveness and increased the willingness to communicate. More importantly, it revealed that wearing makeup could weaken receivers' negative experiences arising from the angry and sad conditions, which is not the case for the non-makeup condition, but could not affect the happy contagion. Furthermore, incremental changes in the amount of makeup were not accompanied by incremental changes in emotional appraisal (valence and arousal). Overall, we found that makeup may affect emotional contagion and interpersonal communication. Whether the alleviated negative experience due to makeup is adaptive may need further discussion.

Black Bean (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) Polyphenolic Extract Exerts Antioxidant and Antiaging Potential

Phenolic compounds present in common beans (Phaseolus vulgaris L.) have been reported to possess antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and ultraviolet radiation (UVR) protective properties. UVR from sunlight, which consists of UV-B and UV-A radiations, induces reactive oxygen species (ROS) and free radical formation, consequently activating proteinases and enzymes such as elastase and tyrosinase, leading to premature skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterize and evaluate the antioxidant and antiaging potential of polyphenols from a black bean endemic variety. The polyphenolic extract was obtained from black beans by supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) using CO₂ with a mixture of water–ethanol as a cosolvent and conventional leaching with a mixture of water–ethanol as solvent. The polyphenolic extracts were purified and characterized, and antioxidant potential, tyrosinase and elastase inhibitory potentials were measured. The extract obtained using the SFE method using CO₂ and H₂O–Ethanol (50:50 v/v) as a cosolvent showed the highest total phenolic compounds yield, with 66.60 ± 7.41 mg GAE/g coat (p > 0.05) and 7.30 ± 0.64 mg C3GE/g coat (p < 0.05) of anthocyanins compared to conventional leaching. Nineteen tentative phenolic compounds were identified in leaching crude extract using ESI-QTOF. Quercetin-3-D-galactoside was identified in crude and purified extracts. The purified SFC extract showed IC₅₀ 0.05 ± 0.002 and IC₅₀ 0.21 ± 0.008 mg/mL for DPPH and ABTS, respectively. The lowest IC₅₀ value of tyrosinase inhibition was 0.143 ± 0.02 mg/mL and 0.005 ± 0.003 mg/mL of elastase inhibition for leaching purified extract. Phenolic compounds presented theoretical free energy values ranging from −5.3 to −7.8 kcal/mol for tyrosinase and −2.5 to −6.8 kcal/mol for elastase in molecular docking (in silico) studies. The results suggest that the purified extracts obtained by SFE or conventional leaching extraction could act as antioxidant and antiaging ingredients for cosmeceutical applications.

Di (Isoquinolin-1-Yl) Sulfane (DIQS) Inhibits Melaninogenesis by Modulating PKA/CREB and MAPK Signaling Pathways

The novel synthetic compound Di (isoquinolin-1-yl) sulfane (DIQS) was identified by zebrafish larva screening during the development of an agent to inhibit abnormal hyperpigmentation. In this study, we investigated the inhibitory effect of DIQS on melanogenesis and its underlying mechanism. DIQS inhibited melanin production and tyrosinase activity in B16F10 cells stimulated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), as well as zebrafish embryos and reconstituted human skin tissue containing melanocytes. DIQS decreased the mRNA and protein expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) and tyrosinase at a concentration of 10 μM. DIQS also inhibited the phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and p-p38 and p-JNK stimulated by α-MSH. These results suggest that DIQS attenuates hyperpigmentation via inhibition of the cAMP/PKA/CREB/MITF/tyrosinase axis and MAPK pathways. Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry analysis revealed that DIQS blocked the conversion of tyrosine to L-3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine (L-DOPA) in zebrafish embryos. Finally, we confirmed that DIQS was non-toxic in reconstituted human tissues such as the epidermis, used to test skin sensitization, and the cornea, used to test eye irritation. In summary, the results of this study suggest the potential of DIQS as a small-molecule agent for skin-whitening cosmetics and the treatment of hyperpigmentation disorders without biological toxicity.

Evaluation of Anti-Melanogenesis Activity of Enriched Pueraria lobata Stem Extracts and Characterization of Its Phytochemical Components Using HPLC-PDA-ESI-MS/MS

The root of Pueraria lobata (Willd.) is a widely used herbal medicine worldwide, whereas the stem of the plant is discarded or used as feed for livestock. To reuse and exploit the stem of P. lobata as a resource, we investigated its potential as a skin-whitening agent. We found that the developed, enriched P. lobata stem (PLS) extract significantly inhibited melanin production in the 3-isobutyl-1-methylxanthine-induced B16/F10 cells at a concentration of 50 μg/mL. To further confirm the mechanism of the antimelanogenic effect of the enriched PLS extracts, we examined the mRNA expression of tyrosinase, which was suppressed by the extracts. To standardize and implement effective quality control of the enriched PLS extracts, its major chemical constituents were identified by high-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array-electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry. In total, 12 constituents were identified. In silico analysis showed that the main constituents, puerarin and daidzin, had excellent binding affinities for human tyrosinase. Collectively, our results suggest that the PLS extracts could be used as anti-pigmentation agents.

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.

Anti-Pigmentary Natural Compounds and Their Mode of Action

Hyper-activated melanocytes are the major cause of skin hyper-pigmentary disorders, such as freckles and melasma. Increasing efforts have been made to search for materials with depigmenting activity to develop functional cosmetics. As a result, numerous materials have been reported to have depigmenting activity but some of them are known to cause unwanted side effects. Consequently, anti-pigmentary natural compounds without concern of toxicity are in great demand. Virtually all sorts of natural sources have been investigated to find anti-pigmentary natural compounds. This review summarizes recently reported anti-pigmentary natural compounds and their mode of action from the ocean, plants, and bacteria.

Oleamide in Ipomoea and Dillenia Species and Inflammatory Activity Investigated through Ion Channel Inhibition

BACKGROUND

Oleamide is an essential substance for human health. So, the plants with high oleamide content are great sources for health care products.

OBJECTIVE

This study is conducted to investigate the quality of oleamide in plants and test the bioactivity in the selected two studied species.

METHODS

The three Ipomoea and five Dillenia species including Ipomoea alba, Ipomoea aquatica and Ipomoea pes-caprae, and Dillenia indica, Dillenia obovata, Dillenia ovata, Dillenia parviflora and Dillenia pentagyna were investigated for the quantity of oleamide by high-performance liquid chromatography. The biological activity test was conducted on the powder formulation of the chosen plants, Dillenia ovata and Dillenia parviflora at a ratio of 30:70, for anti-inflammatory activity ex vivo on a panel of molecular targets through ion channel inhibition including voltage-gated sodium channel, voltage-gated potassium channel, and the cardiac ion as human ether-a-go-go related gene.

RESULTS

The results showed that the leaf extracts of I. aquatica and D. ovata gave the highest and subsequent oleamide quantity i.e. 7.52 and 5.17 mg/g, respectively. Out of the Dillenia formulation which contained various compounds, oleamide showed the highest percentages of inhibition at 8.0-20.0%, and 6.2-14.2% in voltage-gated sodium channel, and voltage-gated potassium channel which had slightly lower values than the oleamide standard, and no effect as 0.0% value inhibition in the cardiac ion channel.

CONCLUSION

The Dillenia formulation exhibits anti-inflammatory activity without affecting the heart. Accordingly, the three studied Ipomoea and three studied Dillenia species may be used for the same activity as a single component or formulation with effective solvent for disease treatments.

Protocatechuic Aldehyde Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells via PKA/CREB-Associated MITF Downregulation

Protocatechuic aldehyde (PA) is a naturally occurring phenolic compound that is a potent inhibitor of mushroom tyrosinase. However, the molecular mechanisms of the anti-melanogenesis activity of PA have not yet been reported. The aim of the current study was to clarify the melanogenesis inhibitory effects of PA and its molecular mechanisms in murine melanoma cells (B16F10). We first predicted the 3D structure of tyrosinase and used a molecular docking algorithm to simulate binding between tyrosinase and PA. These molecular modeling studies calculated a binding energy of -527.42 kcal/mol and indicated that PA interacts with Cu400 and 401, Val283, and His263. Furthermore, PA significantly decreased α-MSH-induced intracellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. PA also inhibited key melanogenic proteins such as tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and TRP-2 in α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, PA decreased MITF expression levels by inhibiting phosphorylation of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and cAMP-dependent protein kinase A (PKA). These results demonstrate that PA can effectively suppress melanin synthesis in melanoma cells. Taken together, our results show that PA could serve as a potential inhibitor of melanogenesis, and hence could be explored as a possible skin-lightening agent.

Antifungal and Antiaging Evaluation of Aerial Part Extracts of Thymelaea hirsuta (L.) Endl

In western Algeria, Thymelaea hirsuta aerial parts are traditionally used topically for the treatment of human skin infections. For a better knowledge of its biological activities, this study aimed at evaluating the in vitro antifungal activity and antiaging properties of several extracts of the aerial parts by in vitro assays. Antifungal activity was investigated by using the reference microbroth dilution method (National Committee for Clinical Laboratory Standards) against the dermatophytes ( Microsporum audouinii, Nannizzia gypsea, Trichophyton interdigitale, and Trichophyton rubrum) and the yeast ( Candida albicans). Antiaging (inhibition of 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhyorazyl radical scavenging and tyrosinase, lipoxygenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activities) assays were performed in 96-well plates. All the extracts of T. hirsuta exhibited antifungal activity against M. audouinii, T. rubrum, and C. albicans, while no activity was found against N. gypsea and T. interdigitale. The highest activity was observed on M. audouinii for the aqueous leaf (minimum inhibitory concentration [MIC] of 8 µg/mL) and stem extracts (MIC = 31 µg/mL) and the methanolic leaf extract (MIC = 8 µg/mL). Additionally, some marked morphological alterations were observed on M. audouinii hyphae with all aqueous extracts. Concerning antiage bioassays, the major activity was found against hyaluronidase for the aqueous and methanolic extracts from leaves and the methanolic extract from flowers. Analysis of this last extract by high-performance liquid chromatography, electrospray ionization-mass spectrometry, and nuclear magnetic resonance, allowed us to identify daphnoretin and daphnetin as major components of this extract, and, therefore, responsible for the antiaging activity. In conclusion, this study provides additional experimental data supporting the traditional use of T. hirsuta extracts on some cutaneous dermatophytosis, as well as new perspectives on the potential use of T. hirsuta to ensure better healing of the skin.

Personal-Care Cosmetic Practices in Pakistan: Current Perspectives and Management

To look superior and acceptable in society, people from all over the world use various types of cosmetic products to enhance or alter their facial appearance and body texture. In recent times, an exponential surge in cosmetic use has been observed in Pakistan, and hence spending money on personal-care products is high. However, there are many reported facts about high loads of lead, mercury, copper, and others hazardous and cancerous elements in local Pakistani cosmetic brands. Consumers of these brands are at high risk of many clinical issues, including cancer. As such, it is a necessity to make people aware of the devastating harmful effects related to cosmetic use. The aim of this study was to provide information for stakeholders and raise awareness in the general public about the use of these local unauthorized personal-care cosmetic products, along with government strategies to stop this cosmetic blight on human health.

Advances in the Design of Genuine Human Tyrosinase Inhibitors for Targeting Melanogenesis and Related Pigmentations

Human tyrosinase (hsTYR) is the key enzyme ensuring the conversion of l-tyrosine to dopaquinone, thereby initiating melanin synthesis, i.e., melanogenesis. Although the protein has long been familiar, knowledge about its three-dimensional structure and efficient overexpression protocols emerged only recently. Consequently, for decades medicinal chemistry studies aiming at developing skin depigmenting agents relied almost exclusively on biological assays performed using mushroom tyrosinase (abTYR), producing a plethoric literature, often of little useful purpose. Indeed, several recent reports have pointed out spectacular differences in terms of interaction patterns and inhibition values between hsTYR and abTYR, including for widely used standard tyrosinase inhibitors. In this review, we summarize the last developments regarding the potential role of hsTYR in human pathologies, the advances in recombinant expression systems and structural data retrieving, and the pioneer generation of true hsTYR inhibitors. Finally, we present suggestions for the design of future inhibitors of this highly attractive target in pharmacology and dermocosmetics.

Isolindleyin exerts anti-melanogenic effects in human epidermal melanocytes via direct binding to tyrosinase

To overcome dermatological concerns causing abnormally excessive melanin synthesis, highly effective and safe skin depigmentation compounds have been identified in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. Among several methods used to achieve skin depigmentation, inhibition of tyrosinase is one of the most effective, since tyrosinase is a crucial enzyme in melanogenesis. Herein, isolindleyin, a novel inhibitor of human tyrosinase, was introduced and evaluated for its anti-melanogenic effects in human epidermal melanocytes. The results revealed that isolindleyin was directly bound to tyrosinase and it suppressed melanin synthesis. The binding mode between isolindleyin and the active sites of human tyrosinase was investigated using computational molecular docking at the atomic level. Isolindleyin binding was found to be stabilized by hydrophobic interactions between His 367 and Val 377 and by hydrogen bonds between Ser 380 and Asn 364. The results of this study revealed the anti-melanogenic effects of isolindleyin that could contribute toward overcoming dermatological concerns that cause abnormally excessive melanin synthesis.

Identification of a Proanthocyanidin from Litchi Chinensis Sonn. Root with Anti-Tyrosinase and Antioxidant Activity

This work follows an ethnobotanical study that took place in the island of Mayotte (France), which pointed out the potential properties of Litchi chinensis Sonn. roots when used to enhance skin health and appearance. Through in vitro testing of a crude methanolic extract, high anti-tyrosinase (skin whitening effect) and antioxidant activities (skin soothing effect) could be measured. HPLC successive bio-guided fractionation steps allowed the purification of one of the compounds responsible for the biological activities. The isolated compound was characterized by UV, IR, MS and 2D-NMR, revealing, for the first time in Litchi chinensis Sonn. roots, an A-type proanthocyanidin and thus revealing a consensus among the traditional use shown by the ethnobotanical study, in vitro biological activities and chemical characterization.

Food-derived bioactive compounds with anti-aging potential for nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products

Besides providing essential nutrients for humans, food contains bioactive compounds that exert diverse biological activities such as anti-microbial, anti-cancerogenic, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant. The cosmetic industry is interested in natural bioactive compounds for their use in nutricosmetic and cosmeceutical products. These products aimed to reduce skin aging, inflammation or provide photoprotection against UV radiation. As a result, nutricosmetics and cosmeceuticals are becoming innovative self-care products in the beauty market. These products contain phytochemicals as active compounds obtained from fruits, vegetables, legumes, medicinal herbs and plants with anti-aging potential. This review summarizes the information within the last 5 years related to bioactive compounds present in fruits, vegetables, herbs and spices commonly used for human consumption. Their antioxidant and biological potential for modulating molecular markers involved in the aging process, as well as their mechanism of action. Diverse natural foods and their byproducts could be used as a source of bioactive compounds for developing cosmeceutical and nutricosmetic products.

Two Cosmetic Properties of an Ethanol Extract of a Cultured and Edible Red Macroalga, Bangia fuscopurpurea: Moisturizing and Whitening Effects

Previous studies have focused on the role of a cultured red macroalga Bangia fuscopurpurea as a functional food; however, except for antioxidant activity, there are no reports directly regarding the potential cosmetic properties of this alga. Our present study explored the moisturizing effect of its ethanol extract (BFH1) and used the tyrosinase activity inhibition assay to evaluate its in vitro whitening effect. The in vitro moisture-retention ability of BFH1 was similar to that of glycerol (positive control), but its moisture-absorption ability was significantly higher. The overall in vivo moisturizing effect of topical application of BFH1 in mice was similar to that of glycerol, but BFH1 did not cause significant changes in the oil content of the skin, and there were no obvious side effects regarding skin appearance and external behavior during treatment. BFH1 exerted in vitro tyrosinase inhibitory activity with a half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of 48.3 μg/mL (IC50 of positive control, vitamin C: 19.6 μg/mL). The total phenolic content of BFH1 was determined as 10.8 % ± 0.07 %. Thus, BFH1 has high potential to be turned into a cosmetic ingredient with moisturizing and whitening effects.

Valorisation of Ribes nigrum L. Pomace, an Agri-Food By-Product to Design a New Cosmetic Active

The ethical and ecological concerns of today’s consumers looking for both sustainable and efficient ingredients in finished products, put a lot of pressure on the cosmetic market actors who are being driven to profoundly modify the strategies adopted to innovate in terms of actives while notably being urged to switch from petroleum- to plant-based ingredients. To produce such natural cosmetic ingredients, agri-food by-products are advocated as raw material due to their reduced carbon footprint as they actively contribute to the worldwide improvement of waste management. The process to transform plant waste materials into such powerful and objectified “green” cosmetic actives in compliance with circular economy principles is a long-term integrated process. Such a development is thoroughly exemplified in the present paper through the description of the design of liquid anti-age ingredients based on Ribes nigrum L. extract. This was obtained by maceration of blackcurrant pomace. and the embodiment of this extract following its phytochemical analysis notably by HPLC-DAD-ELSD and its bioguided fractionation using in vitro bioassays.

New topical tranexamic acid derivative for the improvement of hyperpigmentation and inflammation in the sun-damaged skin

BACKGROUND

Skin-lightening products are used worldwide to treat persistent pigmentation disorders that impact our quality of life and self-confidence. However, consumers of cosmetic and over-the-counter skin lighteners struggle to find products that perform to their expectations. New, safe, and effective bioactives are needed to fill this gap.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate the safety and skin-lightening performance of a new topical tranexamic acid derivative, that is, cetyl tranexamate mesylate.

METHODS

The test material was a facial serum containing 2.0% (w/w) of the new bioactive. Safety was evaluated by a modified Human Repeat Insult Patch Test with 54 subjects of either sex. Performance was objectively assessed based on the improvement of melanin and erythema indexes through time, and also subjectively by photographs and self-perception questionnaires. Thirty-five female subjects applied the serum twice a day for 8 weeks.

RESULTS

No questionable adverse reactions were observed. Melanin and erythema indexes improved significantly and continuously from the baseline to the end of the study (-16.9% and -34.3%, respectively). Photographs further support instrumental data. On average, after 2 weeks, the subjects already noticed an improvement in skin tone (79.3%), a reduction in dark spots (78.6%), and an improvement in facial redness (77.1%).

CONCLUSION

A topical serum containing cetyl tranexamate mesylate was well-tolerated and successfully improved the overall facial skin tone, as well as the appearance of dark spots and redness.

Evaluation of heavy metals in cosmetic products and their health risk assessment

Heavy metals’ contamination in cosmetic products is a serious threat. Present study was conducted to evaluate the concentrations of heavy metals (HMs) in various brands of cosmetic products with special emphasis on their health risk assessment. Five heavy metals including Cd, Cr, Fe, Ni and Pb were quantified in different brands of lotions, foundations, whitening creams, lipsticks, hair dyes and sunblock creams using atomic absorption spectrometry. Risk to the consumer’s health was determined using systemic exposure dosage (SED), margin of safety (MoS), hazard quotient (HQ), hazard index (HI) and lifetime cancer risk (LCR).

On comparative basis, different brands of sunblock creams depicted highest concentration of Ni, Pb and Cr (7.99 ± 0.36, 6.37 ± 0.05 and 0.43 ± 0.01 mg/kg, respectively), whereas lipsticks had elevated levels of Fe at 12.0 ± 1.8 mg/kg, and Cd was maximum in lotions (0.26 ± 0.02 mg/kg). Multivariate analysis revealed strong associations among Cr, Ni and Pb, while Cd and Fe showed disparity in distribution and sources of contamination. MoS, HQ and HI values were within the permissible limit apart from for lotions and sunblock creams, while LCR value was higher than the permissible limit in all cosmetic products except lipsticks. Regular use of these products can cause serious threat to human health, particularly skin cancer on long time exposure. Therefore, continuous monitoring of cosmetic products, particularly with reference to HMs adulteration should be adopted to ensure the human safety and security.

Marine-Derived Compounds with Potential Use as Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs).

Acremonidin E produced by Penicillium sp. SNF123, a fungal endophyte of Panax ginseng, has antimelanogenic activities

Background

Ginseng extracts and ginseng-fermented products are widely used as functional cosmetic ingredients for their whitening and antiwrinkle effects. Recently, increasing attention has been given to bioactive metabolites isolated from endophytic fungi. However, little is known about the bioactive metabolites of the fungi associated with Panax ginseng Meyer.

Methods

An endophytic fungus, Penicillium sp. SNF123 was isolated from the root of P. ginseng, from which acremonidin E was purified. Acremonidin E was tested on melanin synthesis in the murine melanoma cell line B16F10, in the human melanoma cell line MNT-1, and in a pigmented 3D-human skin model, Melanoderm.

Results

Acremonidin E reduced melanogenesis in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells with minimal cytotoxicity. qRT–PCR analysis demonstrated that acremonidin E downregulated melanogenic genes, including tyrosinase and tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), while their enzymatic activities were unaffected. The antimelanogenic effects of acremonidin E were further confirmed in MNT-1 and a pigmented 3D human epidermal skin model, Melanoderm. Immunohistological examination of the Melanoderm further confirmed the regression of both melanin synthesis and melanocyte activation in the treated tissue.

Conclusion

This study demonstrates that acremonidin E, a bioactive metabolite derived from a fungal endophyte of P. ginseng, can inhibit melanin synthesis by downregulating tyrosinase, illuminating the potential utility of microorganisms associated with P. ginseng for cosmetic ingredients.

Effectiveness of a new cosmetic treatment for melasma

BACKGROUND

Melasma treatment is difficult due to extended treatment periods, suboptimal adherence, inconsistent results, and frequent relapses. Kojic acid has been shown to be effective in reducing melasma severity and is now increasingly used in cosmetic treatments.

AIMS

The purpose of the present study was to evaluate the effectiveness of a new cosmetic treatment for melasma at 45 and 90 days.

METHODS

Multicenter prospective study across 20 dermatology clinics/ambulatories. One hundred patients with mild-to-moderate melasma were evaluated. The primary endpoints were changes in mean modified melasma area and severity index (mMASI) score and patient-reported satisfaction at 45 and 90 days.

RESULTS

The mean age of patients was 45.19 ± 11.5 years. Most patients were female and Caucasian. Patients presented mixed (65%), epidermal (26%), and dermal (4%) types of melasma. Triggering factors were hormonal contraception (33%), pregnancy (31%), and pharmacological treatment (11%); mean disease duration was 6.7 ± 6.8 years. Overall, a statistically significant decrease in mean mMASI scores was seen at 45 (2.19 ± 0.182 vs 3.29 ± 0.267, P < .0001) and 90 days (1.27 ± 0.128 vs 3.29 ± 0.267, P < .00001). The highest reduction in mMASI scores was observed in patients with dermal melasma. IGA scores showed a statistically significant improvement in pigmentation at 90 days (P < .00001).

CONCLUSION

The novel cosmetic treatment was associated with the improvement of melasma, as assessed by mMASI.

Forgotten Perfumery Plants - Part I: Balm of Judea

Perfumes have always been products of great importance, mainly composed of natural, valuable and vegetal raw materials. Today, some of them have completely disappeared in perfumery, even though they are part of our cultural heritage and were commonly used in the past. Balm of Judea is one of the most noble, rare and fascinating ingredient long used in perfumery and medicine, that is missing today. After years of research, we collected a resin and an essential oil (steam distillation of fresh aerial parts) from Commiphora gileadensis (L.) C.Chr. native from Saudi Arabia and cultivated in Israel. The aims of this study were to i) identify the main reasons of the loss of the balm of Judea, ii) characterize the volatile composition of the resin and the essential oil and iii) evaluate their olfactory profile and assess their biological activity. Eighty-three compounds were identified in the resin, by a combination of GC-MS and GC/FID techniques, using direct injection and HS-SPME. α-Pinene (24.0 %), sabinene (43.8 %), β-pinene (6.3 %) and cymene (3.6 %) were the main identified compounds, giving an intense, terpenic and lemony smell to the resin. Anti-inflammatory, wound-healing and whitening activities were highlighted. Sabinene (22.7 %), terpinen-4-ol (18.7 %), α-pinene (14.4 %) and cymene (13.6 %) were identified as the main components of the essential oil, giving a spicy, woody and lemony fragrance. Anti-inflammatory and whitening activities were emphasized.

Design Methodology for the Development of a New Cosmetic Active Based on Prunus domestica L. Leaves Extract

When it comes to the development of new active ingredients for cosmetics, biodiversity is a rich source for inspiration that must be tapped in a sustainable manner to cause no social nor ecological damage. Agri-food by-products are therefore more and more considered as available biomass that can be reused to extract their maximum value to produce new cosmetic ingredients before returning to the biosphere. The process to transform plant waste materials into powerful cosmetic actives is thoroughly described in the present paper via the example of the design of a liquid anti-aging ingredient based on a Prunus domestica L. extract obtained by maceration of plums’ dried leaves in propylene glycol. The subsequent development of an SPE (solid-phase extraction) methodology used to remove the propylene glycol to get access to the extracted molecules is thoroughly described as a means to follow the stability of the ingredient over time once formulated into a finished product.

Kinetic, spectroscopic and computational docking study of the inhibitory effect of the pesticides 2,4,5-T, 2,4-D and glyphosate on the diphenolase activity of mushroom tyrosinase

The inhibitory effect of 2,4,5-T, 2,4-D, glyphosate and paraquat on the diphenolase activity of mushroom tyrosinase for oxidation of L-DOPA has been investigated by kinetic measurements, fluorescence spectroscopy and computational docking analysis. 2,4,5-T and 2,4-D inhibit the diphenolase activity of the enzyme following a competitive mechanism, while glyphosate is a mixed inhibitor according to Lineweaver-Burk kinetic analysis. The inhibitory activity follows the order glyphosate >2,4,5-T > 2,4-D with IC50 values of 65, 90 and 106 μM, respectively. Intrinsic tyrosinase fluorescence quenching and computational docking analysis suggest that 2,4,5-T and 2,4-D interact with the active site of the enzyme through hydrophobic interactions, while glyphosate also interacts with external residues of the active site of the enzyme by hydrogen bonding and hydrophilic interactions inducing conformational changes in the protein structure.

Skin Anti-aging Assays of Proanthocyanidin Rich Red Rice Extract, Oryzanol and Other Phenolic Compounds

Red rice is a variety of rice that has more nutritious than white or brown rice. It is also a good source of many potent anti-aging phytochemicals. However, the compounds in red rice extract that exhibit skin anti-aging properties have not been investigated. In this study, the main bioactive compounds in red rice extract (RRE) including proanthocyanidin, catechin, hydroxybenzoic acid, vanillic acid and oryzanol were studied in order to determine their anti-skin aging properties. The effects on skin degradation were assessed by inhibitory enzymatic activity against collagenase and matrixmetalloproteinase-2 (MMP-2). The production levels of collagen and hyaluronic acid obtained from human skin fibroblasts were determined by ELISA. Anti-melanogenesis activity of the bioactive compounds were investigated in B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. The activity of collagenase and MMP-2 was strongly inhibited by proanthocyanidin and catechin, while hydroxybenzoic acid, vanillic acid and oryzanol had no effect. Moreover, proanthocyanindin and catechin significantly induced collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis in human fibroblast cells. Proanthocyanidin and oryzanol reduced the melanin content in B16-F10 mouse melanoma cells. Proanthocyanidin, but not oryzanol, significantly decreased cellular tyrosinase activity. However, the bioactive compounds obtained from red rice extract had no effect on mushroom tyrosinase activity. In addition, proanthocynidin and catechin, exhibited strong DPPH radical scavenging activity, whereas oryzanol slightly inhibited this action. Taken together, these results suggest that proanthocyanidin, catechin, and oryzanol are the bioactive compounds in red rice that exhibit the greatest levels of anti-skin aging properties.