Anti-Wrinkling and Anti-Melanogenic Effect of Pradosia mutisii Methanol Extract

Systemic comparison of molecular characteristics in different skin fibroblast senescent models

BACKGROUND

Senescent human skin primary fibroblast (FB) models have been established for studying aging-related, proliferative, and inflammatory skin diseases. The aim of this study was to compare the transcriptome characteristics of human primary dermal FBs from children and the elderly with four senescence models.

METHODS

Human skin primary FBs were obtained from healthy children (FB-C) and elderly donors (FB-E). Senescence models were generated by ultraviolet B irradiation (FB-UVB), D-galactose stimulation (FB-D-gal), atazanavir treatment (FB-ATV), and replication exhaustion induction (FB-P30). Flow cytometry, immunofluorescence staining, real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction, co-culturing with immune cells, and bulk RNA sequencing were used for systematic comparisons of the models.

RESULTS

In comparison with FB-C, FB-E showed elevated expression of senescence-related genes related to the skin barrier and extracellular matrix, proinflammatory factors, chemokines, oxidative stress, and complement factors. In comparison with FB-E, FB-UVB and FB-ATV showed higher levels of senescence and expression of the genes related to the senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP), and their shaped immune microenvironment highly facilitated the activation of downstream immune cells, including T cells, macrophages, and natural killer cells. FB-P30 was most similar to FB-E in terms of general transcriptome features, such as FB migration and proliferation, and aging-related characteristics. FB-D-gal showed the lowest expression levels of senescence-related genes. In comparisons with the single-cell RNA sequencing results, FB-E showed almost complete simulation of the transcriptional spectrum of FBs in elderly patients with atopic dermatitis, followed by FB-P30 and FB-UVB. FB-E and FB-P30 showed higher similarity with the FBs in keloids.

CONCLUSIONS

Each senescent FB model exhibited different characteristics. In addition to showing upregulated expression of natural senescence features, FB-UVB and FB-ATV showed high expression levels of senescence-related genes, including those involved in the SASP, and FB-P30 showed the greatest similarity with FB-E. However, D-galactose-stimulated FBs did not clearly present aging characteristics.

Synergistic delivery of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants has inhibitory effects on UVB-induced skin photoaging

Ultraviolet B (UVB) light exposure accelerates skin photoaging. Human adipose-derived stem cell exosomes (hADSC-Exos) and some antioxidants may have anti-photoaging effects. However, it is unknown whether the combination of hADSC-Exos and antioxidants plays a synergistic role in anti-photoaging. In cellular and 3D skin models, we showed that vitamin E (VE) and hADSC-Exos were optimal anti-photoaging combinations. In vivo, VE and hADSC-Exos increased skin tightening and elasticity in UVB-induced photoaging mice Combined treatment with VE and hADSC-Exos inhibited SIRT1/NF-κB pathway. These findings contribute to the understanding of hADSC-Exos in conjunction with other antioxidants, thereby providing valuable insights for the future pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries.

Wrinkle Reduction Using Tetrapeptide-68 Contained in an O/W Formulation: A Randomized Double-Blind Placebo-Controlled Study

Peptides, composed of 2-50 amino acids, have gained attention in anti-aging treatments due to their high safety, low irritation, and cost-effective production. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of Tetrapeptide-68, derived from the skin structural protein Loricrin, on periorbital wrinkles in women aged 30-65 years. A 12-week, double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted with 25 participants who applied the Tetrapeptide-68 (100 ppm) O/W formulation around the eyes. Skin physiological parameters were assessed at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Participants also completed efficacy and usability questionnaires. Significant improvements in wrinkle reduction were observed with Tetrapeptide-68 cream treatment, as measured by various skin roughness parameters and 3D imaging analysis. Participants reported positive changes in skin texture and moisture levels, with no adverse reactions noted. Tetrapeptide-68 cream demonstrates promising anti-wrinkle effects, highlighting its potential as an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further studies are recommended to explore its long-term benefits and underlying mechanisms.

Molecular understanding of the therapeutic potential of melanin inhibiting natural products

With the development of society and the improvement of people's living standards, there is an increasing demand for melanin-inhibiting products that prioritize health, safety, and efficacy. Therefore, the development of natural products that can safely and efficiently inhibit melanin synthesis is of great social significance and has significant market potential. In this paper, by reviewing the literature reported in recent years, we summarized the natural products with inhibition of melanin synthesis effects that have been put into or not yet put into the market, and classified them according to the chemical groups of their compounds or the extraction methods of the natural products. Through the summary analysis, we found that these compounds mainly include terpenoids, phenylpropanoids, flavonoids and so on, while the natural product extracts mainly include methanol extracts, ethanol extracts, and aqueous extracts. Their main inhibition of melanin synthesis mechanisms include: (1) direct inhibition of tyrosinase activity; (2) down-regulation of the α-MSH-MC1R, Wnt, NO, PI3K/Akt and MAPK pathways through the expression of MITF and its downstream genes TYR, TRP-1, and TRP-2; (3) antioxidant; (4) inhibition of melanocyte growth through cytotoxicity; (5) inhibition of melanosome production and transport. This paper provides an in-depth discussion on the research progress of whitening natural products and their market value. The aim is to offer guidance for future research and development of natural skin whitening products.

Sustainable Utilization of Food Biowaste (Papaya Peel) Extract for Gold Nanoparticle Biosynthesis and Investigation of Its Multi-Functional Potentials

Papaya contains high amounts of vitamins A, C, riboflavin, thiamine, niacin, ascorbic acid, potassium, and carotenoids. It is confirmed by several studies that all food waste parts such as the fruit peels, seeds, and leaves of papaya are potential sources of phenolic compounds, particularly in the peel. Considering the presence of numerous bioactive compounds in papaya fruit peels, the current study reports a rapid, cheap, and environmentally friendly method for the production of gold nanoparticles (AuNPs) employing food biowaste (vegetable papaya peel extract (VPPE)) and investigated its antioxidant, antidiabetic, tyrosinase inhibition, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and photocatalytic degradation potentials. The phytochemical analysis gave positive results for tannins, saponins, steroids, cardiac steroidal glycoside, protein, and carbohydrates. The manufactured VPPE-AuNPs were studied by UV-Vis scan (with surface plasmon resonance of 552 nm), X-ray diffraction analysis (XRD) (with average crystallite size of 44.41 nm as per the Scherrer equation), scanning electron microscopy-energy-dispersive X-ray (SEM-EDS), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), particle size, zeta potential, etc. The mean dimension of the manufactured VPPE-AuNPs is 112.2 d.nm (PDI-0.149) with a -26.1 mV zeta potential. The VPPE-AuNPs displayed a significant antioxidant effect (93.24% DPPH scavenging and 74.23% SOD inhibition at 100 µg/mL); moderate tyrosinase effect (with 30.76%); and substantial α-glucosidase (95.63%) and α-amylase effect (50.66%) at 100 µg/mL. Additionally, it was found to be very proficient in the removal of harmful methyl orange and methylene blue dyes with degradation of 34.70% at 3 h and 24.39% at 5 h, respectively. Taken altogether, the VPPE-AuNPs have been proven to possess multiple biopotential activities, which can be explored by the food, cosmetics, and biomedical industries.

Anti-oxidative, anti-apoptotic, and anti-inflammatory activities of Connarus semidecandrus Jack ethanol extract in UVB-irradiated human keratinocytes

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Connarus semidecandrus Jack (Family: connaraceae) is a medicinal plant known for its wide distribution throughout Southeast Asia. Renowned for its diverse therapeutic properties, it has been traditionally used for treating fever, skin irritation, and colic.

AIM OF THE STUDY

Numerous individuals suffer from skin issues, including wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and inflammation, due to environmental factors. Although many drugs are available to treat skin problems, chemical drugs have many shortcomings and side effects. Therefore, natural products are attractive potential medicines for alleviating skin troubles. We recently showed that Connarus semidecandrus Jack ethanol extract (Cs-EE) has anti-alopecia potential. This paper aims to explore the potential skin-protective effects and underlying molecular mechanisms of Connarus semidecandrus Jack in UVB-induced human keratinocytes (HaCaT).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Before utilization, Cs-EE was dissolved in dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) and was preserved at a temperature of -20 °C. The phytochemical constituents of Cs-EE were detected by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis (GC-MS). Sequentially, HaCaT cells were exposed to varying concentrations of Cs-EE prior to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation. Evaluations of cellular responses in HaCaT cells, including assessments of cell viability, deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) damage, and gene and protein expressions, were carried out. To explore the specific signaling pathway involved, we conducted a luciferase assay in addition to validating these pathways using Western blot analysis.

RESULTS

Nitric oxide (NO) and intracellular reactive oxygen species were decreased. Melanin production through the activation of melanocytes by α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (MSH) was also inhibited by Cs-EE. Furthermore, the mRNA expression levels of key factors such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), interleukin 6 (IL-6), MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9 exhibited a remarkable decrease. In addition, the phosphorylation of TAK1 within the signaling cascade exhibited a decline, and the activities of the transcription factor AP-1 were decreased according to a luciferase reporter assay.

CONCLUSIONS

Taken together, these findings suggest that the anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and anti-apoptotic effects of Cs-EE indicate the compound's potential usefulness as a natural component in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Amazonian useful plants described in the book "Le Pays des Amazones" (1885) of the Brazilian propagandist Baron de Santa-Anna Nery: a historical and ethnobotanical perspective

BACKGROUND

Frederico José de Santa-Anna Nery (1848-1901) was a Brazilian Baron who referred to himself as a "volunteer propagandist" for Brazil in Europe, serving as an immigration agent to publicize the living conditions in the Amazon region, advocating for its development and modernization at the end of the nineteenth century. Santa-Anna Nery's most famous book is "Le Pays des Amazones" (The Lands of the Amazons), first published in 1885, which the author dedicated a chapter to introduce and report on the Amazonian useful plant species and its relationship with humans. The aim of this work is to understand the historical context and ethnobotanical value of the plant species in the Brazilian Amazon at the end of the nineteenth century through an analysis of the book "Le Pays des Amazones" (1885) by Baron de Santa-Anna Nery, as well as to bring to light the historical importance of this very influential propagandist, who has been forgotten nowadays.

METHODS

The original book "Le Pays des Amazones" (1885), as well as the original 3rd edition and its translated version into Portuguese, was carefully analyzed and all information about plants was systematized, with botanical names being updated. Finally, using the scientific name of medicinal plants alone or in combination with their traditional use, a search was carried out in databases in order to indicate current pharmacological studies that provide evidence about the described traditional uses.

RESULTS

A total of 156 plant species were identified in the book, although 132 species had their scientific names updated. These species belong to 45 different families, with Fabaceae and Arecaceae the most represented, and 109 plants are Brazilian native. Considering only the 36 medicinal plants, the main medicinal indications reported were astringent, purgative/laxative, stimulant and tonic, vermifuge, febrifuge, sudorific, emetic, diuretic and antidysenteric. Regarding other useful plants (non-medicinal), 97 species were cited for food, constructions and buildings, spices and condiments, ornaments and objects, carpentry, textile fibers, gums, oils, balms and essences, pigments and tanning, hunting and fishing.

CONCLUSIONS

When the book "Le Pays des Amazones" is analyzed from a timeless perspective, with a particular focus on historical ethnobotany, it is possible to observe the economic, social, and political importance of many useful plants for the Amazon at the end of the nineteenth century and how the relationship between local people, indigenous communities, and immigrants was established with plant biodiversity.

The extract from Portulaca oleracea L. rehabilitates skin photoaging via adjusting miR-138-5p/Sirt1-mediated inflammation and oxidative stress

Photoaging is the main form of external skin aging, and ultraviolet radiation is the main cause. Long-term ultraviolet radiation can cause oxidative stress, inflammation, immune responses, and skin cell apoptosis. Therefore, it is necessary to explore active products from plants to treat skin photoaging. C57BL/6J mice were randomly divided into control, model, and purslane (Portulaca oleracea L.) extract-treated groups (150, 300, and 600 mg/kg). Ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces skin photoaging. Histopathological changes in the skin were observed by hematoxylin and eosin (H&E), Masson's trichrome, and toluidine staining. Levels of hydroxyproline (HYP), hyaluronic acid (HA), collagen I (COL1), catalase (CAT), malondialdehyde (MDA), and total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD) were measured. UVB-induced BJ and HaCaT cells were used to evaluate the effects of the crude extract. The effects of the purslane extract on miR-138-5p/Sirt1 signaling were then tested. The results showed that the purslane extract significantly increased cell viability in UVB-induced cells and decreased oxidative damage and inflammation. In addition, the extract affected the miR-138-5p levels in vivo and in vitro, and increased the levels of the target gene Sirt1. In UVB-induced cells, purslane extract significantly altered the expression levels of genes or proteins associated with miR-138-5p/Sirt1 signaling. Inflammation and oxidative damage were significantly enhanced when miR-138-5p was overexpressed, and the expression levels of the genes and proteins were reversed by the extract. Co-transfection with the miR-138-5p inhibitor and si-Sirt1 showed the same effects as the extract on the signal. Similar results have been observed in mice. In summary, purslane extract showed potent protective effects against skin photoaging by regulating the miR-138-5p/Sirt1 axis and should be used as a natural product for skin care.

Scalp bacterial species influence SIRT1 and TERT expression in keratinocytes

Scalp bacteria on the human scalp and scalp hair comprise distinct community structures for sites and individuals. To evaluate their effect on human keratinocyte cellular activity, including that of the hair follicular keratinocytes, the expression of several longevity genes was examined using HaCaT cells. A screening system that uses enhanced green fluorescent protein (EGFP) fluorescence was established to identify scalp bacteria that enhance silent mating type information regulation 2 homolog-1 (SIRT1) promoter activity in transformed HaCaT cells (SIRT1p-EGFP). The results of quantitative polymerase chain reaction revealed that several predominant scalp bacteria enhanced (Cutibacterium acnes and Pseudomonas lini) and repressed (Staphylococcus epidermidis) the expressions of SIRT1 and telomerase reverse transcriptase (TERT) genes in HaCaT cells. These results suggest that the predominant scalp bacteria are related to the health of the scalp and hair, including repair of the damaged scalp and hair growth, by regulating gene expression in keratinocytes.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Chlorin E6-Curcumin-Mediated Photodynamic Therapy Promotes an Anti-Photoaging Effect in UVB-Irradiated Fibroblasts

Skin photoaging due to ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure generates reactive oxygen species (ROS) that increase matrix metalloproteinase (MMP). Chlorin e6-photodynamic therapy (Ce6-PDT), in addition to being the first-line treatment for malignancies, has been shown to lessen skin photoaging, while curcumin is well known for reducing the deleterious effects of ROS. In the current study, PDT with three novel Ce6-curcumin derivatives, a combination of Ce6 and curcumin with various linkers, including propane-1,3-diamine for Ce6-propane-curcumin; hexane-1,6-diamine for Ce6-hexane-curcumin; and 3,3'-((oxybis(ethane-2,1-diyl))bis(oxy))bis(propan-1-amine) for Ce6-dipolyethylene glycol (diPEG)-curcumin, were studied for regulation of UVB-induced photoaging on human skin fibroblast (Hs68) and mouse embryonic fibroblast (BALB/c 3T3) cells. We assessed the antiphotoaging effects of Ce6-curcumin derivatives on cell viability, antioxidant activity, the mechanism of matrix metalloproteinase-1 and 2 (MMP-2) expression, and collagen synthesis in UVB-irradiated in vitro models. All three Ce6-curcumin derivatives were found to be non-phototoxic in the neutral red uptake phototoxicity test. We found that Ce6-hexane-curcumin-PDT and Ce6-propane-curcumin-associated PDT exhibited less cytotoxicity in Hs68 and BALB/c 3T3 fibroblast cell lines compared to Ce6-diPEG-curcumin-PDT. Ce6-diPEG-curcumin and Ce6-propane-curcumin-associated PDT showed superior antioxidant activity in Hs68 cell lines. Further, in UVB-irradiated in vitro models, the Ce6-diPEG-curcumin-PDT greatly attenuated the expression levels of MMP-1 and MMP-2 by blocking mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), activator protein 1 (AP-1), and tumor necrosis factor-α (NF-κB) signaling. Moreover, Ce6-diPEG-curcumin effectively inhibited inflammatory molecules, such as cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNOS) expression, while accelerating collagen synthesis. These results demonstrate that Ce6-diPEG-curcumin may be a potential therapy for treating skin photoaging.

The elastase and melanogenesis inhibitory and anti-inflammatory activities of phosvitin phosphopeptides produced using high-temperature and mild-pressure (HTMP) pretreatment and enzyme hydrolysis combinations

This study aimed to determine the skin protective effect of egg yolk phosvitin phosphopeptides (PPPs). Phosvitin was separated from the egg yolk, and PPPs were produced using high-temperature and mild-pressure (HTMP) pretreatment and enzyme-sterilization hydrolysis combinations. The elastase and melanogenesis inhibitory activities and anti-inflammatory effects of egg yolk PPPs were determined. All PPPs significantly inhibited elastase activity, but the PPPs prepared with HTMP pretreatment and trypsin-sterilization (HTMP-T-S) combination suppressed the tyrosinase activity the most. PPPs (3 mg/mL) inhibited the α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin production in B16F10 melanoma cells by 31.18 to 38.58%. In addition, PPPs effectively inhibited nitric oxide (NO) production in the LPS (lipopolysaccharide)-stimulated RAW 264.7 macrophages, and the PPPs from HTMP-T-S exhibited the highest inhibitory activity. The protein expressions of pro-inflammatory enzymes, inducible nitric oxide synthase, and cyclooxygenase-2 were down-regulated by the PPPs from the HTMP-T-S. Therefore, PPPs could be used as an anti-melanogenic, anti-elastase, and anti-inflammatory agent for humans and skin care products.

β-Cyclodextrin/chitosan-based (polyvinyl alcohol-co-acrylic acid) interpenetrating hydrogels for oral drug delivery

Gallic acid is an important phenolic compound with extensive applications in the food and pharmaceutical industries due to its health-promoting properties. However, due to its poor solubility and bioavailability, it is rapidly excreted from the body. Therefore, β-cyclodextrin/chitosan-based (polyvinyl alcohol-co-acrylic acid) interpenetrating controlled release hydrogels were developed to improve its dissolution and bioavailability. pH, polymer ratios, dynamic and equilibrium swelling, porosity, sol-gel, FTIR, XRD, TGA, DSC, SEM and structural parameters like an average molecular weight between crosslinks, solvent interaction parameters, and diffusion coefficient affecting release behavior were investigated. The highest swelling and release were observed at pH 7.4. Furthermore, hydrogels showed good antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Hydrogels improved the bioavailability of gallic acid in a pharmacokinetics study in rabbits. In vitro biodegradation showed that hydrogels were more stable in blank PBS than lysozyme and collagenase. Hydrogels were safe for rabbits (3500 mg/kg) without causing hematological or histopathological changes. The hydrogels showed good biocompatibility, and no adverse reactions were observed. Moreover, the developed hydrogels can be used to improve the bioavailability of various other drugs.

Evaluation of Antibacterial Mechanism of Action, Tyrosinase Inhibition, and Photocatalytic Degradation Potential of Sericin-Based Gold Nanoparticles

In recent times, numerous natural materials have been used for the fabrication of gold nanoparticles (AuNPs). Natural resources used for the synthesis of AuNPs are more environment friendly than chemical resources. Sericin is a silk protein that is discarded during the degumming process for obtaining silk. The current research used sericin silk protein waste materials as the reducing agent for the manufacture of gold nanoparticles (SGNPs) by a one-pot green synthesis method. Further, the antibacterial effect and antibacterial mechanism of action, tyrosinase inhibition, and photocatalytic degradation potential of these SGNPs were evaluated. The SGNPs displayed positive antibacterial activity (8.45-9.58 mm zone of inhibition at 50 μg/disc) against all six tested foodborne pathogenic bacteria, namely, Enterococcus feacium DB01, Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 13565, Listeria monocytogenes ATCC 33090, Escherichia coli O157:H7 ATCC 23514, Aeromonas hydrophila ATCC 7966, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa ATCC 27583. The SGNPs also exhibited promising tyrosinase inhibition potential, with 32.83% inhibition at 100 μg/mL concentration as compared to 52.4% by Kojic acid, taken as a reference standard compound. The SGNPs also displayed significant photocatalytic degradation effects, with 44.87% methylene blue dye degradation after 5 h of incubation. Moreover, the antibacterial mode of action of the SGNPs was also investigated against E. coli and E. feacium, and the results show that due to the small size of the nanomaterials, they could have adhered to the surface of the bacterial pathogens, and could have released more ions and dispersed in the bacterial cell wall surrounding environment, thereby disrupting the cell membrane and ROS production, and subsequently penetrating the bacterial cells, resulting in lysis or damage to the cell by the process of structural damage to the membrane, oxidative stress, and damage to the DNA and bacterial proteins. The overall outcome of the current investigation concludes the positive effects of the obtained SGNPs and their prospective applications as a natural antibacterial agent in cosmetics, environmental, and foodstuff industries, and for the management of environmental contagion.

Ellagic Acid Inclusion Complex-Loaded Hydrogels as an Efficient Controlled Release System: Design, Fabrication and In Vitro Evaluation

Oxidants play a crucial role in the development of oxidative stress, which is linked to disease progression. Ellagic acid is an effective antioxidant with applications in the treatment and prevention of several diseases, since it neutralizes free radicals and reduces oxidative stress. However, it has limited application due to its poor solubility and oral bioavailability. Since ellagic acid is hydrophobic, it is difficult to load it directly into hydrogels for controlled release applications. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to first prepare inclusion complexes of ellagic acid (EA) with hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin and then load them into carbopol-934-grafted-2-acrylamido-2-methyl-1-propane sulfonic acid (CP-g-AMPS) hydrogels for orally controlled drug delivery. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), thermogravimetric analysis (TGA), and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were used to validate ellagic acid inclusion complexes and hydrogels. There was slightly higher swelling and drug release at pH 1.2 (42.20% and 92.13%) than at pH 7.4 (31.61% and 77.28%), respectively. Hydrogels had high porosity (88.90%) and biodegradation (9.2% per week in phosphate-buffered saline). Hydrogels were tested for their antioxidant properties in vitro against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS). Additionally, the antibacterial activity of hydrogels was demonstrated against Gram-positive bacterial strains (Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli) and Gram-negative bacterial strains (Pseudomonas aeruginosa).

Sericin mediated gold/silver bimetallic nanoparticles and exploration of its multi-therapeutic efficiency and photocatalytic degradation potential

The current investigation aimed at bimetallic gold-silver nanoparticles (Au/Ag NPs), here called BM-GS NPs, synthesis using sericin protein as the reducing agent in an easy, cost-effective, and sustainable way. The obtained BM-GS NPs were characterized by UV-Visible spectroscopy, Transmission electron microscopy (TEM), energy dispersive X-ray analysis (EDS), atomic force microscopy (AFM), Dynamic light scattering (DLS) and Zeta potential, X-ray Powder Diffraction (XRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), and Thermogravimetric analysis followed by evaluation of its multitherapeutic and photocatalytic degradation potentials. The TEM analysis revealed its spherical nature and the EDS result displayed the presence of both Ag and Au elements, confirming the synthesis of BM-GS NPs. The XRD pattern verified the crystalline nature of the nanoparticles (NPs). The DLS analysis showed an average size of 86.08 d nm and the zeta potential showed a highly negative value (-26.3 mV) which specifies that the generated bimetallic NPs are stable. The BM-GS NPs exhibited positive wound healing potential (with 63.38% of wound closure rate at 25 μg/ml, as compared to 54.42% by the untreated control) with very negligible toxicity effect on the cell viability of the normal keratinocyte cells. It also demonstrated promising antioxidant properties with 65.00%, 69.23%, and 63.03% activity at 100 μg/ml concentration for ABTS (2, 2-azinobis) (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid)), DPPH (1, 1 diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) and SOD (superoxide dismutase enzyme) assays respectively, antidiabetic potential (with a significantly high α-glucosidase inhibition potential of 99.69% at 10μg/ml concentration and 62.11% of α-amylase enzyme inhibition at 100 μg/ml concentration) and moderate tyrosinase inhibitory potential (with 17.09% at 100 μg/ml concentration). Besides, it displayed reasonable antibacterial potential with the diameter of zone of inhibition ranging between 10.89 and 12.39 mm. Further, its antibacterial mode of action reveals that its effects could be due to being very smaller, the NPs could have penetrated inside the cellular membrane thereby causing rupture and damage to the interior materials leading to cellular lysis. The photocatalytic evaluation showed that synthesized BM-GS NPs have the efficiency of degrading methylene blue dye by 34.70% within 3 h of treatment. The above findings revealed the multi-therapeutic efficacy of the sericin globular protein-mediated BM-GS NPs and its potential future applications in the cosmetics and food sector and environmental contamination management industries.

Study of Hydroxypropyl β-Cyclodextrin and Puerarin Inclusion Complexes Encapsulated in Sodium Alginate-Grafted 2-Acrylamido-2-Methyl-1-Propane Sulfonic Acid Hydrogels for Oral Controlled Drug Delivery

Puerarin has been reported to have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, immunity enhancement, neuroprotective, cardioprotective, antitumor, and antimicrobial effects. However, due to its poor pharmacokinetic profile (low oral bioavailability, rapid systemic clearance, and short half-life) and physicochemical properties (e.g., low aqueous solubility and poor stability) its therapeutic efficacy is limited. The hydrophobic nature of puerarin makes it difficult to load into hydrogels. Hence, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-βCD)-puerarin inclusion complexes (PIC) were first prepared to enhance solubility and stability; then, they were incorporated into sodium alginate-grafted 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-1-propane sulfonic acid (SA-g-AMPS) hydrogels for controlled drug release in order to increase bioavailability. The puerarin inclusion complexes and hydrogels were evaluated via FTIR, TGA, SEM, XRD, and DSC. Swelling ratio and drug release were both highest at pH 1.2 (36.38% swelling ratio and 86.17% drug release) versus pH 7.4 (27.50% swelling ratio and 73.25% drug release) after 48 h. The hydrogels exhibited high porosity (85%) and biodegradability (10% in 1 week in phosphate buffer saline). In addition, the in vitro antioxidative activity (DPPH (71%), ABTS (75%), and antibacterial activity (Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa) indicated the puerarin inclusion complex-loaded hydrogels had antioxidative and antibacterial capabilities. This study provides a basis for the successful encapsulation of hydrophobic drugs inside hydrogels for controlled drug release and other purposes.

Effect and mechanism of fish scale extract natural hydrogel on skin protection and cell damage repair after UV irradiation

Skin lesions caused by ultraviolet radiation exposure seriously reduce people's life quality, safe natural products development to prevent and repair ultraviolet damage is an effective strategy. We investigated the protective and reparative effects of the natural composite gel (SE-gel) derived from fish scales on UV-irradiated skin by inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS) -mediated oxidative stress and inflammatory responses. Our results showed that SE-gel rich in glycine and proline had good ultraviolet absorption, water absorption, moisturizing and free radical scavenging abilities. In vitro, SE-gel could improve UV-irradiated L929 cell viability by 1.24 times via inhibiting 50% ROS production and malondialdehyde, and improving superoxide dismutase activity to reduce oxidative stress caused by UV irradiation. In UV-irradiated mouse skin damage model, SE-gel prevent UV-induced skin erythema, epidermal thickening, collagen fiber degradation and disruption, and reduced UV-induced inflammatory response via NF-κB signaling pathway, showing potential application in UV-irradiated skin damage prevention and repair.

Synthesis and Evaluation of Rutin–Hydroxypropyl β-Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes Embedded in Xanthan Gum-Based (HPMC-g-AMPS) Hydrogels for Oral Controlled Drug Delivery

Oxidants play a significant role in causing oxidative stress in the body, which contributes to the development of diseases. Rutin—a powerful antioxidant—may be useful in the prevention and treatment of various diseases by scavenging oxidants and reducing oxidative stress. However, low solubility and oral bioavailability have restricted its use. Due to the hydrophobic nature of rutin, it cannot be easily loaded inside hydrogels. Therefore, first rutin inclusion complexes (RIC) with hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin (HP-βCD) were prepared to improve its solubility, followed by incorporation into xanthan gum-based (hydroxypropyl methylcellulose-grafted-2-acrylamido -2-methyl-1-propane sulfonic acid) hydrogels for controlled drug release in order to improve the bioavailability. Rutin inclusion complexes and hydrogels were validated by FTIR, XRD, SEM, TGA, and DSC. The highest swelling ratio and drug release occurred at pH 1.2 (28% swelling ratio and 70% drug release) versus pH 7.4 (22% swelling ratio, 65% drug release) after 48 h. Hydrogels showed high porosity (94%) and biodegradation (9% in 1 week in phosphate buffer saline). Moreover, in vitro antioxidative and antibacterial studies (Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, and Escherichia coli) confirmed the antioxidative and antibacterial potential of the developed hydrogels.

Structural Optimization of Cannabidiol as Multifunctional Cosmetic Raw Materials

Cannabidiol (CBD), derived from the plant cannabis, can be used in the cosmetics industry for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. However, CBD is purified from the hemp plant extract, its source is very limited and under strict control. So in this study, computational and experimental methods were combined to search for novel CBD substitutes with high biology potencies. The action mode between CBD and target protein cannabidiol receptor 1 was studied to find the key skeleton, which was used to virtually screen a natural products database to search for compounds with 70% similarity. The hit compounds with high docking scores were selected for the ABTS and DPPH free radical scavenging experiments for antioxidant evaluation. The effects on the expressions of nitric oxide (NO), interleukin-6 (IL-6), COX-2 and iNOS in RAW264.7 cell line were detected to demonstrate their anti-inflammatory abilities. The effect of anti-wrinkle ability were evaluated by detecting the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in HFF-1. The effects on melanin production and tyrosinase activity in Bb16F10 were also detected. As a result, two compounds were found to be superior to cannabidiol, in terms of antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening efficacy with a lower cytotoxicity.

Skin Improvement with Antioxidant Effect of Yuja (Citrus junos) Peel Fractions: Wrinkles, Moisturizing, and Whitening

Yuja (Citrus junos) has been cultivated and used for food and medicinal purposes in China and Korea. Its antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and whitening effects were evaluated in HaCaT, HDF, and B16F10 cells. UVB has been known to cause cellular stress and the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Ambivalence of oxidative stress has been reported; however, excessive levels of ROS contribute to skin aging through the loss of elasticity and collagen fibers of connective tissue in the dermis. Skin aging is one of the biological processes that is affected by various factors, including UVB. Pro-Collagen I and hyaluronic acid contents were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT and HDF cells to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of Yuja-peel (YJP) fractions in -EA (ethyl acetate), -Hex (hexane), and -BuOH (butanol). The expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) involved in collagen degradation was confirmed to be inhibited by YJP fractions at both the protein and mRNA levels. Filaggrin and serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), which are moisturizing factors, were induced by YJP fractions. B16F10 cells were treated with α-MSH to induce hyperpigmentation, and then the whitening efficacy of YJP fractions was verified by observing a decrease in melanin content. Overall, our results contribute to the development of various novel skin-improving cosmetics and pharmaceuticals with YJP fractions as active ingredients.

Synthesis of Gallic Acid-Loaded Chitosan-Grafted-2-Acrylamido-2-Methylpropane Sulfonic Acid Hydrogels for Oral Controlled Drug Delivery: In Vitro Biodegradation, Antioxidant, and Antibacterial Effects

In this study, chitosan (CS) and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS)-based hydrogels were formulated by the free radical polymerization technique for the controlled release of gallic acid. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) confirmed the successful preparation and loading of gallic acid within the hydrogel network. Differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) confirmed the increased thermal stability of the hydrogels following the crosslinking and polymerization of chitosan and AMPS. In X-ray diffraction analysis (XRD), the crystallinity of the raw materials decreased, indicating strong crosslinking of the reagents and the formation of a new polymeric network of hydrogels. Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed that the hydrogel had a rough, dense, and porous surface, which is consistent with the highly polymerized composition of the hydrogel. After 48 h, the hydrogels exhibited higher swelling at pH 1.2 (swelling ratio of 19.93%) than at pH 7.4 (swelling ratio of 15.65%). The drug release was analyzed using ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) spectrophotometer and demonstrated that after 48 h, gallic acid release was maximum at pH 1.2 (85.27%) compared to pH 7.4 (75.19%). The percent porosity (78.36%) and drug loading increased with the increasing concentration of chitosan and AMPS, while a decrease was observed with the increasing concentration of ethylene glycol dimethyl methacrylate (EGDMA). Crosslinking of the hydrogels increased with concentrations of chitosan and EGDMA but decreased with AMPS. In vitro studies demonstrated that the developed hydrogels were biodegradable (8.6% degradation/week) and had antimicrobial (zone of inhibition of 21 and 16 mm against Gram-positive bacteria Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus as well as 13 mm against Gram-negative bacteria Pseudomonas aeruginosa, respectively) and antioxidant (73% DPPH and 70% ABTS) properties. Therefore, the prepared hydrogels could be used as an effective controlled drug delivery system.

The melanin inhibitory effect of plants and phytochemicals: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin, while excessive synthesis of melanin can cause abnormal pigmentation and induce skin diseases. Long-term use of commercial whitening agents in managing skin melanin such as kojic acid and arbutin can lead to some negative effects such as dermatitis and liver cancer. Although past studies have researched the melanin inhibitory effect of plant extracts, the effective dose and mechanisms are not well summarized and discussed. This study aims to explore the melanin inhibitory property of phytochemicals and tries to answer the following research questions: (1) Which plant extracts and phytochemicals could inhibit melanin biosynthesis in the skin? what is the mechanism of action? (2) Have human trials been conducted to confirm their melanin inhibitory effect? (3) If not, which phytochemicals are recommended for further human trials? This article would provide information for future research to develop natural and safe skin whitening products.

METHODS

A preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) systematic review method and OHAT risk-of-bias tool were applied to screen literature from 2000 to 2021 and 50 research articles met the selection criteria.

RESULTS

Flavonoids, phenolic acids, stilbenes and terpenes are main classes of phytochemicals responsible for the melanin inhibitory effects. The in vitro/in vivo melanin inhibitory effects of these plant extracts/phytochemicals are achieved via three main mechanisms: (1) the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv., and phytochemicals such as galangin and origanoside could manage melanin biosynthesis through competitive inhibition, non-competitive inhibition or mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase; (2) phytochemicals such as ginsenoside F1, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde could inhibit melanogenesis through down-regulating microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF) gene expression via different signalling pathways; (3) the ethanolic extracts of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius have a good ultraviolet absorption ability and high sun protective factor (SPF) values, thereby inhibiting UV induced melanogenesis in the skin.

CONCLUSION

Although many plant extracts and phytochemicals have been found to inhibit melanin production, most of the results were only proved in cellular and/or animal models. Only the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv. panicle, and ginsenoside F1 were proved effective in human trials. Animal studies proved the effectiveness of galangin, origanoside, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde with effective dose below 3 mM, and therefore recommended for future human trial. In addition, cellular studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of oxyresveratrol, mulberroside A, kurarinol, kuraridinol, plumbagin, (6aR,11aR)-3,8-dihydroxy-9‑methoxy pterocarpan, ginsenoside Rh4, cardamonin, nobiletin, curcumin, β-mangostin and emodin in inhibiting melanin synthesis at low concentrations of 20 µM and proved the low SPF values of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius extracts, and therefore recommended for further animal and human trials.

Protective Function of Malus baccata (L.) Borkh Methanol Extract against UVB/Hydrogen Peroxide-Induced Skin Aging via Inhibition of MAPK and NF-κB Signaling

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation induces ROS production, which activates activator protein (AP)-1 and nuclear factor (NF)-κB signaling and downstream molecules, ultimately triggering the generation of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and degradation of collagen. The aim of this study was to investigate the protective effect of methanol extract from Malus baccata (L.) Borkh (Mb-ME) against aging. DPPH and ABTS assays showed that Mb-ME had a significant antioxidant capacity. Flow cytometry results indicated that Mb-ME attenuated UVB and H₂O₂-stimulated apoptosis and reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. RT-PCR analysis in HaCaT and HDF cells suggested that Mb-ME treatment blocked the expression of MMPs, COX-2, IL-1β, IL-6, HYALs, and p53 while promoting the levels of TGM1, FLG, HASs, Sirt1, and Col1A1. Mechanically, Mb-ME inhibited the phosphorylation of MAP kinases and NF-κB signaling. Overall, these results strongly suggest that Mb-ME can be developed as an antiaging therapy.

In Vitro Anti-Photoaging and Skin Protective Effects of Licania macrocarpa Cuatrec Methanol Extract

The Licania genus has been used in the treatment of dysentery, diabetes, inflammation, and diarrhea in South America. Of these plants, the strong anti-inflammatory activity of Licania macrocarpa Cuatrec (Chrysobalanaceae) has been reported previously. However, the beneficial activities of this plant on skin health have remained unclear. This study explores the protective activity of a methanol extract (50-100 μg/mL) in the aerial parts of L. macrocarpa Cuatrec (Lm-ME) and its mechanism, in terms of its moisturizing/hydration factors, skin wrinkles, UV radiation-induced cell damage, and radical generation (using RT/real-time PCR, carbazole assays, flowcytometry, DPPH/ABTS, and immunoblotting analysis). The anti-pigmentation role of Lm-ME was also tested by measuring levels of melanin, melanogenesis-related genes, and pigmentation-regulatory proteins. Lm-ME decreased UVB-irradiated death in HaCaT cells by suppressing apoptosis and inhibited matrix metalloproteinases 1/2 (MMP1/2) expression by enhancing the activity of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK), c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), and p38. It was confirmed that Lm-ME displayed strong antioxidative activity. Lm-ME upregulated the expression of hyaluronan synthases-2/3 (HAS-2/3) and transglutaminase-1 (TGM-1), as well as secreted levels of hyaluronic acid (HA) via p38 and JNK activation. This extract also significantly inhibited the production of hyaluronidase (Hyal)-1, -2, and -4. Lm-ME reduced the melanin expression of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase, and tyrosinase-related protein-1/2 (TYRP-1/2) in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-treated B16F10 cells via the reduction of cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB) and p38 activation. These results suggest that Lm-ME plays a role in skin protection through antioxidative, moisturizing, cytoprotective, and skin-lightening properties, and may become a new and promising cosmetic product beneficial for the skin.

Repetitive Bathing and Skin Poultice with Hydrogen-Rich Water Improve Wrinkles and Blotches Together with Modulation of Skin Oiliness and Moisture

Hydrogen-rich warm water (HW) has not been verified yet for skin anti-aging effects. Daily 10 min HW (dissolved hydrogen: 338–682 μg/mL, 41 °C) bathing and skin poultice with HW-impregnated towels for 11–61 days were demonstrated to improve wrinkle degrees (29 skin-loci) from 3.14 ± 0.52 to 1.52 ± 0.74 (p < 0.001) and blotch degrees (23 loci) from 3.48 ± 0.67 to 1.74 ± 0.86 (p < 0.001) in five healthy subjects (49–66 years old), by densito-/planimetrically evaluating with an Image-J software, and ranked into six hierarchies (0, 1–5). Meanwhile, skin oiliness was evaluated to increase for the oil-poor skins, but inversely decrease for excessively oily skins, suggesting the HW’s function as skin-oiliness modulation, with an appreciably negative correlation in prior oiliness contents versus change after HW application (r = −0.345, 23 loci). Skin moisture increased upon HW application, with a negative correlation (r = −0.090, 23 loci) in prior moisture contents versus post-HW-application moisture-changing rates, meaning that HW application compensated moisture for water-deficient skins (27.5–40% moisture), but not for wet skins (>41% moisture). Thus, the HW bath together with HW poultice exerted beneficial effects on skin appearances such as wrinkles, blotches and moisture/oiliness, some of which might ensue from enhanced antioxidant ability in blood, as was previously demonstrated for the HW bath.

Antioxidant Capacity of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. and Its Beneficial Effects Related to Anti-Aging in HaCaT and B16F10 Cells

Skin aging is a natural process influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, and many skin anti-aging strategies have been developed. Plants from the genus Potentilla has been used in Europe and Asia to treat various diseases. Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. has been used as a traditional medicinal herb in China and has recently been shown to have anti-inflammatory effects. Despite the biological and pharmacological potential of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt., its skin anti-aging effects remain unclear. Therefore, this study evaluated the free radical scavenging, moisturizing, anti-melanogenic, and wound-healing effects of an ethanol extract of Potentilla paradoxa Nutt. (Pp-EE). Pp-EE was found to contain phenolics and flavonoids and exhibits in vitro antioxidant activities. α-Linolenic acid was found to be a major component of Pp-EE on gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. Pp-EE promoted the expression of hyaluronic acid (HA) synthesis-related enzymes and suppressed the expression of HA degradation-related enzymes in keratinocytes, so it may increase skin hydration. Pp-EE also showed inhibitory effects on the production and secretion of melanin in melanocytes. In a scratch assay, Pp-EE improved skin wound healing. Taken together, Pp-EE has several effects that may delay skin aging, suggesting its potential benefits as a natural ingredient in cosmetic or pharmaceutical products.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

In Vitro Photoprotective, Anti-Inflammatory, Moisturizing, and Antimelanogenic Effects of a Methanolic Extract of Chrysophyllum lucentifolium Cronquist

UVB exposure causes DNA mutation and ROS generation, which lead to skin photoaging, skin wrinkling, skin sagging, and uneven skin pigmentation. ROS activate the NF-κB and MAPK signaling pathways leading to production of inflammatory molecules such as COX-2, collagen-degrading proteins such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), and moisture-deficiency-related proteins such as hyaluronidases (HYALs). UVB exposure also induces irregular skin pigmentation though melanin overproduction, related to CREB transcription factor activity and transcription of melanogenesis genes. Here, we demonstrate that Chrysophyllum lucentifolium methanol extract (Cl-ME) has antioxidant activity; it dose-dependently decreased the expression of COX-2, MMP-1, MMP-9, HYAL-1, and HYAL-4 by downregulating the NF-κB (IKKα/β, IκBα) and MAPK (ERK, JNK, and p38) pathways and increased the expression of Col1a1, which encodes a protein important for maintaining skin elasticity. Cl-ME also showed promising antimelanogenic activity by decreasing the expression of CREB, a transcription factor, which in turn inhibited the expression of genes encoding tyrosinase, MITF, TYRP1, and TYRP2. In summary, a methanol extract of C. lucentifolium exhibited antiphotoaging and antimelanogenic activity and could be useful in the cosmeceutical industry.

Eisenia bicyclis Extract Repairs UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging In Vitro and In Vivo: Photoprotective Effects

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is a major cause of skin aging. The aim of the present study was to determine the photoprotective effect of a 30% ethanol extract of Eisenia bicyclis (Kjellman) Setchell (EEB) against UVB-induced skin aging. By treating human dermal fibroblasts (Hs68) with EEB after UVB irradiation, we found that EEB had a cytoprotective effect. EEB treatment significantly decreased UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) production by suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK)/activator protein 1 (AP-1) signaling and enhancing the protein expression of tissue inhibitors of metalloproteinases (TIMPs). EEB was also found to recover the UVB-induced degradation of pro-collagen by upregulating Smad signaling. Moreover, EEB increased the mRNA expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and loricrin in UVB-irradiated human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT). EEB decreased UVB-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation by upregulating glutathione peroxidase 1 (GPx1) and heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) expression via nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2) activation in Hs68 cells. In a UVB-induced HR-1 hairless mouse model, the oral administration of EEB mitigated photoaging lesions including wrinkle formation, skin thickness, and skin dryness by downregulating MMP-1 production and upregulating the expression of pro-collagen type I alpha 1 chain (pro-COL1A1). Collectively, our findings revealed that EEB prevents UVB-induced skin damage by regulating MMP-1 and pro-collagen type I production through MAPK/AP-1 and Smad pathways.

Exploring the Potential of Nannochloropsis sp. Extract for Cosmeceutical Applications

Recently, there has been emerging interest in various natural products with skin protective effects as they are recognized as safe and efficient. Microalgae have developed chemical defense systems to protect themselves against oxidative stress caused by UV radiation by producing various bioactive compounds including a number of secondary metabolites, which have potential for cosmeceutical applications. In addition, microalgae have various advantages as a sustainable source for bioactive compounds with diverse functions due to their rapid growth rate, high productivity, and use of non-arable land. In this study, we aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential of ethanol extract from Nannochloropsis sp. G1-5 (NG15) isolated from the southern West Sea of the Republic of Korea. It contained PUFAs (including EPA), carotenoids (astaxanthin, canthaxanthin, β-carotene, zeaxanthin, violaxanthin), and phenolic compounds, which are known to have various skin protective functions. We confirmed that the NG15 extract showed various skin protective functions with low cytotoxicity, specifically anti-melanogenic, antioxidant, skin-moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkling, and UV protective function, by measuring tyrosinase inhibition activity; melanin content; DPPH radical scavenging activity; expression of HAS-2, MMP-1, and Col1A1 genes; and elastase inhibition activity as well as cell viability after UV exposure. Our results indicated that the NG15 extract has the potential to be used for the development of natural cosmetics with a broad range of skin protective functions.

Antioxidant Effect of Lactobacillus fermentum CQPC04-Fermented Soy Milk on D-Galactose-Induced Oxidative Aging Mice

The aim of this study is to evaluate the changes in soy isoflavones and peptides in soy milk after lactic acid bacterial fermentation, and explore the positive effects of fermented soy milk on an oxidative aging mouse model induced with D-galactose. We found that free soybean isoflavones and peptides increased after soy milk was fermented by Lactobacillus fermentum CQPC04. The in vivo results indicated that L. fermentum CQPC04-fermented soy milk enhanced the organ index of the liver and spleen, and improved the pathological morphology of the liver, spleen, and skin. L. fermentum CQPC04-fermented soy milk increased the enzymatic activity of glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px), total superoxide dismutase (T-SOD), and catalase (CAT), increased glutathione (GSH), but decreased the levels of nitric oxide (NO) and malondialdehyde (MDA) in serum, liver, and brain tissues of oxidative aging mice. The above mentioned fermented soy milk also increased the levels of collagen I (Col I), hyaluronic acid (HA), and collagen III (Col III), and decreased the levels of advanced glycation End products (AGEs) and hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂). The RT-qPCR results showed that L. fermentum CQPC04-fermented soy milk upregulated the mRNA expression of nuclear factor erythroid 2?related factor (Nrf2), heme oxygenase-1 (HMOX1), quinone oxido-reductase 1 (Nqo1), neuronal nitric oxide synthase (NOS1), endothelial nitric oxide synthase (NOS3), Cu/Zn–superoxide dismutase (Cu/Zn-SOD), Mn–superoxide dismutase (Mn-SOD), and CAT, but downregulated the expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (NOS2) and glutamate cysteine ligase modifier subunit (Gclm) in liver and spleen tissues. Lastly, the fermented soy milk also increased the gene expression of Cu/Zn-SOD, Mn-SOD, CAT, GSH-Px, matrix metalloproteinases 1 (TIMP1), and matrix metalloproteinases 2 (TIMP2), and decreased the expression of matrix metalloproteinase 2 (MMP2) and matrix metalloproteinase 9 (MMP9) in skin tissue. In conclusion, L. fermentum CQPC04-fermented soy milk was able to satisfactorily delay oxidative aging effects, and its mechanism may be related to the increase in free soy isoflavones and peptides.

Antimelanogenesis Effects of Theasinensin A

Theasinensin A (TSA) is a major group of catechin dimers mainly found in oolong tea and black tea. This compound is also manufactured with epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG) as a substrate and is refined after the enzyme reaction. In previous studies, TSA has been reported to be effective against inflammation. However, the effect of these substances on skin melanin formation remains unknown. In this study, we unraveled the role of TSA in melanogenesis using mouse melanoma B16F10 cells and normal human epidermal melanocytes (NHEMs) through reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-PCR), Western blotting analysis, luciferase reporter assay, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay analysis. TSA inhibited melanin formation and secretion in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 cells and NHEMs. TSA down-regulated the mRNA expression of tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (Tyrp1), and Tyrp2, which are all related to melanin formation in these cells. TSA was able to suppress the activities of certain proteins in the melanocortin 1 receptor (MC1R) signaling pathway associated with melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells: cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) response element-binding protein (CREB), protein kinase A (PKA), tyrosinase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF). We also confirmed α-MSH-mediated CREB activities through a luciferase reporter assay, and that the quantities of cAMP were reduced by TSA in the enzyme linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) results. Based on these findings, TSA should be considered an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation.

Determination of Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Tyrosinase Inhibitory Effects of Functional Cosmetic Creams Available on the Thailand Market

Recently, the global trend toward the use of natural extracts and antioxidant agents in the cosmetic cream industry to produce whitening effects has been increasing. This has also been a persistent trend in Thailand. In this study, samples of commercial cosmetic creams on the Thai market were assessed for a functional evaluation of their antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibitory effects, and phenolic contents. Samples were extracted using hot water and sonication extraction method to obtain the functional cream extracts. Total phenolic contents in all samples were within the range of 0.46-47.92 mg GAE/30 g cream. Antioxidant activities of the cream extracts were within the range of 3.61-43.98 mg Trolox equivalent/30 g cream, while tyrosinase inhibition activities were within the range of 2.58-97.94% of inhibition. With regard to the relationship between the total phenolic content and the antioxidant activity of the cosmetic creams, Pearson's correlation coefficient revealed a moderately positive relationship with an r value of 0.6108. Furthermore, the relationship between the antioxidant activity and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the cosmetic creams was highly positive with an r value of 0.7238. Overall, this study demonstrated that the total phenolic contents in the functional cosmetic creams could play a role in antioxidant activity and anti-tyrosinase activities. The findings indicate how the whitening and antioxidant effects of cosmetic creams could be maintained after the products have been formulated, as this concern can affect the consumer's decision when purchasing cosmetic products.

Ethanol Extract of Yak-Kong Fermented by Lactic Acid Bacteria from a Korean Infant Markedly Reduces Matrix Metallopreteinase-1 Expression Induced by Solar Ultraviolet Irradiation in Human Keratinocytes and a 3D Skin Model

Yak-Kong is a type of black soybean that is colloquially referred to as the "medicinal bean" and it elicits several beneficial effects that are relevant to human health, including attenuating the formation of skin wrinkles. It has previously been shown that soybean extracts elicit additional bioactivity that is fermented by lactic acid bacteria. In this study of lactic acid bacteria strains that were isolated from the stools of breast-feeding infants (<100 days old), we selected Bifidobacterium animalis subsp. Lactis LDTM 8102 (LDTM 8102) as the lead strain for the fermentation of Yak-Kong. We investigated the effects of LDTM 8102-fermented Yak-Kong on solar-ultraviolet irradiation (sUV)-induced wrinkle formation. In HaCaT cells, the ethanol extract of LDTM 8102-fermented Yak-Kong (EFY) effectively reduced sUV-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) secretion. The effect of EFY was superior to that of unfermented (UFY)- and Lactis KCTC 5854 (another Bifidobacterium animalis species)-fermented Yak-Kong. Additionally, EFY reduced sUV-induced MMP-1 mRNA expression and promoter activity, as well as the transactivation of AP-1 and phosphorylation of ERK1/2 and JNK1/2. Furthermore, EFY alleviated sUV-induced MMP-1 secretion, the destruction of the epidermis, and degradation of collagen in a three-dimensional (3D) skin culture model. EFY had a higher total polyphenol content and anti-oxidative activity than UFY. Twelve metabolites were significantly (≥2-fold) increased in Yak-Kong extract after fermentation by LDTM 8102. Among them, the metabolites of major isoflavones, such as 6,7,4'-trihydroxyisoflavone (THIF), exerted the reducing effect of MMP-1, which indicated that the isoflavone metabolites contributed to the effect of EFY on MMP-1 expression as active compounds. These findings suggest that EFY is a potent natural material that can potentially prevent sUV-induced wrinkle formation.

Impact of circadian disruption on health; SIRT1 and Telomeres

Circadian clock is a biochemical oscillator in organisms that regulates the circadian rhythm of numerous genes over 24 h. The circadian clock is involved in telomere homeostasis by regulating the diurnal rhythms of telomerase activity, TERT mRNA level, TERRA expression, and telomeric heterochromatin formation. Particularly, CLOCK and BMAL1 deficiency contribute to telomere shortening by preventing rhythmic telomerase activity and TERRA expression, respectively. Telomere shortening increases the number of senescent cells with impaired circadian rhythms. In return, telomerase reconstitution improves impaired circadian rhythms of senescent cells. SIRT1 that is an NAD+-dependent deacetylase positively regulates circadian clock and telomere homeostasis. SIRT1 contributes to the circadian clock by mediating CLOCK/BMAL1 complex formation, BMAL1 transcription and PER2 disruption. On the other hand, SIRT1 ensures telomere homeostasis by inducing telomerase and shelterin protein expression and regulating telomere heterochromatin formation. SIRT1 inhibition leads to both circadian clock and telomeres dysfunction that inhibit its activity. In light of this current evidence, we could suggest that the BMAL1/CLOCK complex regulates the telomere homeostasis in SIRT1 dependent manner, and also telomere dysfunction inhibits circadian clock function by suppressing SIRT1 activity to induce age-related diseases. We consider that increasing SIRT1 activity can prevent age-related diseases and help healthy aging by protecting telomere integrity and circadian clock function for individuals subjected to circadian rhythm disruption such as shift works, individuals with sleep disorders, and in the elderly population.

Rose Petal Extract (Rosa gallica) Exerts Skin Whitening and Anti-Skin Wrinkle Effects

We sought to investigate the effect of extracts from Rosa gallica petals (RPE) on skin whitening and anti-wrinkle activity. Tyrosinase activity was attenuated by RPE treatment, concomitant with the reduction of melanin accumulation in human B16F10 melanoma. Treatment of the facial skin of volunteers in a clinical trial with an RPE-containing formulation enhanced skin brightness (L* value) significantly. The underlying mechanism responsible was determined to be associated with mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) activation. In addition, RPE exhibited anti-wrinkle formation activity of human dermal fibroblasts by suppressing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 level. In vivo study, RPE also inhibited solar ultraviolet-stimulated MMP-1 level by c-Jun regulation. Overall, our findings indicate that RPE evokes skin whitening and anti-wrinkle formation activity by regulating intracellular signaling, supporting its utility as an ingredient for skin whitening and anti-wrinkle cosmetic products.

Antiwrinkle and Antimelanogenesis Effects of Tyndallized Lactobacillus acidophilus KCCM12625P

UVB irradiation can induce generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause skin aging or pigmentation. Lactobacillus acidophilus is a well-known probiotic strain that regulates skin health through antimicrobial peptides and organic products produced by metabolism and through immune responses. In this study, we investigated the antioxidative, antiwrinkle, and antimelanogenesis effects of tyndallized Lactobacillus acidophilus KCCM12625P (AL). To analyze the effects of AL on UV irradiation-induced skin wrinkle formation in vitro, human keratinocytes and human dermal fibroblasts were exposed to UVB. Subsequent treatment with AL induced antiwrinkle effects by regulating wrinkle-related genes such as matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), SIRT-1, and type 1 procollagen (COL1AL). In addition, Western blotting assays confirmed that regulation of MMPs by AL in keratinocytes was due to regulation of the AP-1 signaling pathway. Furthermore, we confirmed the ability of AL to regulate melanogenesis in B16F10 murine melanoma cells treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH). In particular, AL reduced the mRNA expression of melanogenesis-related genes such as tyrosinase, TYRP-1, and TYRP-2. Finally, we used Western blotting assays to confirm that the antimelanogenesis role of AL was due to its regulation of the cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) signaling pathway. Collectively, these results indicate that AL has an antiwrinkle activity in damaged skin and can inhibit melanogenesis. Thus, AL should be considered an important substance for potential use in anti-aging drugs or cosmetics.

Anti-Wrinkle Benefits of Peptides Complex Stimulating Skin Basement Membrane Proteins Expression

The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) provides a physical and biological interface between the epidermis and the dermis. In addition to providing a structural integrity, the DEJ also acts as a passageway for molecular transport. Based on the recently reported importance of the DEJ in skin aging, novel peptide derivatives have been tested for their effects on basement membrane (BM) protein expressions in cultured human epidermal keratinocytes. As a result, protein expressions of collagen XVII, laminin and nidogen were stimulated by the test peptide and peptides complex. Further ex vivo evaluation using excised human skin, confirmed that the topical application of the peptides complex significantly increased dermal collagen expression, as well as expressions of collagen XVII and laminin. Interestingly, while the origin of the laminin protein is epidermal keratinocytes, the immunohistochemical staining of skin showed that laminin was only detected in the uppermost layer of the dermis, which suggests a tight assembly of laminin protein onto the dermal side of the DEJ. These results suggest that a peptide complex could improve the structural properties of the DEJ through its ability to stimulate BM proteins. In order to evaluate the anti-wrinkle benefits of the peptide complex in vivo, a clinical study was performed on 22 healthy Asian female volunteers older than 40 years. As a result, significant improvements in skin wrinkles for all of the five sites were observed after two weeks, as assessed by skin topographic measurements. Collectively, these results demonstrate the anti-aging efficacy of the peptides complex.

Functional Analysis of Macromolecular Polysaccharides: Whitening, Moisturizing, Anti-Oxidant, and Cell Proliferation

In this research we utilized extracts from two different nature products, Achatina fulica and Heimiella retispora, to enhance skin moisturizing abilities, anti-oxidative properties, and cell proliferations. It was observed that two polysaccharides with anti-oxidative effects by chelating metal ions reduced oxidative stress and further blocked the formation of reactive oxygen species syntheses. To detect whether there was a similar effect within the cellular mechanism, a flow cytometry was applied for sensing the oxidative level and it was found that both materials inhibited the endogenous oxidative stress, which was induced by phorbol-12-myristate-13-acetate (PMA). Both polysaccharides also stimulated the production of collagen to maintain skin tightness and a moisturizing effect. In summary, we developed two macromolecular polysaccharides with potential applications in dermal care.

Heparin-poloxamer hydrogel-encapsulated rhFGF21 enhances wound healing in diabetic mice

Wound healing, especially for diabetic wounds, is a lengthy and complicated process involving interactions and responses at the protein, cell, and tissue levels. Loading of growth factors into a hydrogel to construct a sustained-release system is considered a promising approach to improve wound healing. The present study investigates the effect of thermosensitive heparin-poloxamer (HP) hydrogel-encapsulated recombinant human fibroblast growth factor 21 (rhFGF21) on wound healing in mice with streptozotocin-induced diabetes mellitus. First, we studied the in vitro release of rhFGF21 from the rhFGF21-HP coacervate. The results showed that HP might control the release of rhFGF21. Next, we examined the effect of rhFGF21-HP on skin wound healing in diabetic mice. Our data showed that rhFGF21-HP significantly improved wound closure; promoted granulation, collagen deposition, and re-epithelialization; and enhanced the expression of CD31. Moreover, rhFGF21-HP had obvious advantages in diabetic wound healing. Therefore, the results suggest that the rhFGF21-HP hydrogel polymer plays an important role in skin wound healing. This work provides a suitable sustained-release delivery system that can continuously release rhFGF21 and presents a promising therapeutic strategy for wound healing in patients with diabetes.-Liu, H., Zhao, Y., Zou, Y., Huang, W., Zhu, L., Liu, F., Wang, D., Guo, K., Hu, J., Chen, J., Ye, L., Li, X., Lin, L. Heparin-poloxamer hydrogel-encapsulated rhFGF21 enhances wound healing in diabetic mice.

p-Coumaric Acid as An Active Ingredient in Cosmetics: A Review Focusing on its Antimelanogenic Effects

Controlling unwanted hyperpigmentation is a major challenge in dermatology and cosmetology, and safe and efficacious antimelanogenic agents are deemed useful for this purpose. p-Coumaric acid is a natural metabolite contained in many edible plants, and its antioxidant activities in reducing oxidative stress and inflammatory reactions have been demonstrated in various experimental models. p-Coumaric acid has the optimal structure to be a competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase that catalyzes key reactions in the melanin biosynthetic pathway. Experimental evidence supports this notion as it was found to be a more potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, especially toward human enzymes, than other well-known tyrosinase inhibitors such as arbutin and kojic acid. p-Coumaric acid inhibited melanin synthesis in murine melanoma cells, human epidermal melanocytes, and reconstituted three-dimensional human skin models. Ex-vivo skin permeation experiments and in-vivo efficacy tests for p-coumaric acid confirmed its efficient transdermal delivery and functional efficacy in reducing erythema development and skin pigmentation due to ultraviolet radiation exposure. Human studies further supported its effectiveness in hypopigmentation and depigmentation. These findings suggest that p-coumaric acid has good potential to be used as a skin-lightening active ingredient in cosmetics. Future studies are needed to extensively examine its safety and efficacy and to develop an optimized cosmetic formulation for the best performance in skin lightening.

Efficiency of Skin Whitening Cream Containing Etlingera elatior Flower and Leaf Extracts in Volunteers

Our previous research demonstrated that Etlingera elatior possesses whitening and anti-aging properties and also contains bioactive ingredients for cosmeceuticals. Therefore, this research work aimed to evaluate the efficiency of whitening cream containing both the flower and leaf extracts of E. elatior in human volunteers and their degree of skin irritation. Both the flower and leaf extracts were formulated as a cosmetic called “FL1 cream”, which was assessed for its physical properties and underwent an accelerated stability test. The FL1 cream was also evaluated for skin irritation and its skin whitening effect among 24 healthy volunteers who used it for four weeks. The FL1 cream demonstrated good physical stability under the various conditions for three months, along with six cycles of heating/cooling. The irritation analysis showed that irritation reactions were absent in all volunteers. The efficiency of FL1 cream in improving the appearance of skin whitening was demonstrated by a significant (p < 0.05) and continuous decrease in melanin content compared with the initial value. Additionally, the L* value was significantly and continuously increased after application of the FL1 cream. The highest melanin reduction was 6.67%. The FL1 cream containing E. elatior extracts can be used as a whitening cream in cosmetics.