Antioxidative, Anti-Inflammatory, and Anti-Aging Properties of Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids: Molecular and Cellular Mechanisms in the Protection of Skin-Aging

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Antiaging properties of chlorogenic acid through protein and gene biomarkers in human skin fibroblast cells as photoaging model

Background and purpose

Chlorogenic acid (CA) is a natural chemical that promises antiaging activity against photoaging skin damage. This research examined CA activities in mitigating skin photoaging.

Experimental approach

UV-exposed human skin fibroblast cells were subjected to CA at 6.25, 12.5, and 25 μg/mL. The protein levels of cell secretion, such as cyclooxygenase (COX)-2, nitric oxide (NO), and interleukin (IL)-6 were measured using ELISA and colorimetry methods. Meanwhile, the mRNA expressions of glutathione peroxidase (GPX)-1, tissue inhibitor metalloproteinase (TIMP)-1, matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1, caspase (CASP)-3, CASP-8, and fibroblast growth factor (FGF)-2 were quantified using the qRT-PCR method.

Findings/Results

CA treatment reduced inflammatory and aging biomarkers. CA at 6.25 μg/mL lowered NO, COX-2, and IL-6 levels to 89.44 μmol/L, 8.10 ng/mL, and 62.75 pg/mL, respectively. CA at 25 μg/mL resulted in the most significant down-regulation of MMP-1, CASP-3, and CASP-8 genes' expression (3.27, 1.25, and 3.59, respectively). Furthermore, treatment with CA at 25 µg/mL demonstrated the most notable activity in up-regulating antioxidant markers, specifically GPX-1, and extracellular matrix (ECM) integrity markers, including TIMP-1 and FGF-2 genes' expression.

Conclusion and implications

CA imposes its anti-aging activity by decreasing inflammatory and aging biomarkers, and increasing cellular antioxidant and ECM integrity.

Sustainable Production of Shinorine from Agricultural Wastes Using Engineered Saccharomyces cerevisiae Expressing Novel d-Alanine-d-alanine Ligase from Pseudonocardia pini

Shinorine, a compound known for its protective properties against UV radiation, is widely used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. Despite the construction of various recombinant Saccharomyces cerevisiae strains for shinorine production, achieving industrial-scale yields remains a challenge. In this study, genes encoding enzymes (DDGS, O-MT, and ATP-grasp enzyme) from Actinosynnema mirum were introduced into S. cerevisiae DXdT to enable the heterologous conversion of sedoheptulose 7-phosphate to mycosporine-glycine─the direct biosynthetic precursor of shinorine. Subsequently, a novel d-alanine-d-alanine ligase from Pseudonocardia pini was introduced to produce shinorine. The engineered strain (DXdT-MG-mi89-PP.ddl) produced 267.9 mg/L shinorine with a 48.6 mg/g dry cell weight (DCW) content in a medium supplemented with lignocellulosic hydrolysate derived from rice straw. Notably, the recombinant strain produced 1.7 g/L shinorine with a 79.1 mg/g DCW content from a corn steep liquor medium with a mixture of glucose and xylose. These results support the idea that sustainable shinorine production from agricultural wastes holds significant promise for industrial applications.

Potential anti-aging applications of microbial-derived surfactantsin cosmetic formulations

The skin aging process is a complex interaction of genetic, epigenetic, and environmental factors, such as chemical pollution and UV radiation. There is growing evidence that biosurfactants, especially those of microbial origin, have distinct age-supportive effects through different mechanisms, such as stimulation of fibroblast growth, high antioxidant capacities, and favorable anti-inflammatory properties. With a growing financial contribution of more than 15 m€per year, microbial surfactants (MSs) display unique biological effects on the skin including improved cell mobility, better nutrient access, and facilitated cellular growth under harsh conditions. Their biodegradable nature, unusual surface activity, good safety profile and tolerance to high temperature and pH variations widen their potential spectrum in biomedical and pharmaceutical applications. MSs typically have lower critical micelle concentration (CMC) levels than chemical surfactants enhancing their effectiveness. As natural surfactants, MSs are considered possible "green" alternatives to synthetic surfactants with better biodegradability, sustainability, and beneficial functional properties. This review therefore aims to explore the potential impacts of MSs as anti-aging ingredients.

Decoding the photoprotection strategies and manipulating cyanobacterial photoprotective metabolites, mycosporine-like amino acids, for next-generation sunscreens

The most recent evaluation of the impacts of UV-B radiation and depletion of stratospheric ozone points out the need for effective photoprotection strategies for both biological and nonbiological components. To mitigate the disruptive consequences of artificial sunscreens, photoprotective compounds synthesized from gram-negative, oxygenic, and photoautotrophic prokaryote, cyanobacteria have been studied. In a quest to counteract the harmful UV radiation, cyanobacterial species biosynthesize photoprotective metabolites named as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). The investigation of MAAs as potential substitutes for commercial sunscreen compounds is motivated by their inherent characteristics, such as antioxidative properties, water solubility, low molecular weight, and high molar extinction coefficients. These attributes contribute to the stability of MAAs and make them promising candidates for natural alternatives in sunscreen formulations. They are effective at reducing direct damage caused by UV radiation and do not lead to the production of reactive oxygen radicals. In order to better understand the role, ecology, and its application at a commercial scale, tools like genome mining, heterologous expression, and synthetic biology have been explored in this review to develop next-generation sunscreens. Utilizing tactical concepts of bio-nanoconjugate formation for the development of an efficient MAA-nanoparticle conjugate structure would not only give the sunscreen complex stability but would also serve as a promising tool for the production of analogues. This review would provide insight on efforts to produce MAAs by diversifying the biosynthetic pathways, modulating the precursors and stress conditions, and comprehending the gene cluster arrangement for MAA biosynthesis and its application in developing effective sunscreen.

Marine Pharmacology in 2019-2021: Marine Compounds with Antibacterial, Antidiabetic, Antifungal, Anti-Inflammatory, Antiprotozoal, Antituberculosis and Antiviral Activities; Affecting the Immune and Nervous Systems, and Other Miscellaneous Mechanisms of Action

The current 2019-2021 marine pharmacology literature review provides a continuation of previous reviews covering the period 1998 to 2018. Preclinical marine pharmacology research during 2019-2021 was published by researchers in 42 countries and contributed novel mechanism-of-action pharmacology for 171 structurally characterized marine compounds. The peer-reviewed marine natural product pharmacology literature reported antibacterial, antifungal, antiprotozoal, antituberculosis, and antiviral mechanism-of-action studies for 49 compounds, 87 compounds with antidiabetic and anti-inflammatory activities that also affected the immune and nervous system, while another group of 51 compounds demonstrated novel miscellaneous mechanisms of action, which upon further investigation, may contribute to several pharmacological classes. Thus, in 2019-2021, a very active preclinical marine natural product pharmacology pipeline provided novel mechanisms of action as well as new lead chemistry for the clinical marine pharmaceutical pipeline targeting the therapy of several disease categories.

Optimizing the Extraction of Bioactive Compounds from Porphyra linearis (Rhodophyta): Evaluating Alkaline and Enzymatic Hydrolysis for Nutraceutical Applications

Porphyra sensu lato is one of the most economically significant and widely cultured and consumed algae in the world. Porphyra species present excellent nutraceutic properties due to their bioactive compounds (BACs). This research aimed to find the most efficient aqueous extraction method for BACs by examining alkaline and enzymatic hydrolysis. Alkaline hydrolysis with 2.5% sodium carbonate (SC) and at 80 °C proved optimal for extracting all BACs (phycobiliproteins, soluble proteins, polyphenols, and carbohydrates) except mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), which were best extracted with water only, and at 80 °C. Enzymatic hydrolysis, particularly with the 'Miura' enzymatic cocktail (cellulase, xylanase, glycoside hydrolase, and β-glucanase), showed superior results in extracting phycoerythrin (PE), phycocyanin (PC), soluble proteins, and carbohydrates, with increases of approximately 195%, 510%, 890%, and 65%, respectively, compared to the best alkaline hydrolysis extraction (2.5% SC and 80 °C). Phenolic content analysis showed no significant difference between the 'Miura' cocktail and 2.5% SC treatments. Antioxidant activity was higher in samples from alkaline hydrolysis, while extraction of MAAs showed no significant difference between water-only and 'Miura' treatments. The study concludes that enzymatic hydrolysis improves the efficiency of BACs extraction in P. linearis, highlighting its potential for the nutraceutical industry, and especially with respect to MAAs for topical and oral UV-photoprotectors.

Reversing the directionality of reactions between non-oxidative pentose phosphate pathway and glycolytic pathway boosts mycosporine-like amino acid production in Saccharomyces cerevisiae

BACKGROUND

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of strongly UV-absorbing compounds produced by cyanobacteria, algae and corals and are promising candidates for natural sunscreen components. Low MAA yields from natural sources, coupled with difficulties in culturing its native producers, have catalyzed synthetic biology-guided approaches to produce MAAs in tractable microbial hosts like Escherichia coli, Saccharomyces cerevisiae and Corynebacterium glutamicum. However, the MAA titres obtained in these hosts are still low, necessitating a thorough understanding of cellular factors regulating MAA production.

RESULTS

To delineate factors that regulate MAA production, we constructed a shinorine (mycosporine-glycine-serine) producing yeast strain by expressing the four MAA biosynthetic enzymes from Nostoc punctiforme in Saccharomyces cerevisiae. We show that shinorine is produced from the pentose phosphate pathway intermediate sedoheptulose 7-phosphate (S7P), and not from the shikimate pathway intermediate 3-dehydroquinate (3DHQ) as previously suggested. Deletions of transaldolase (TAL1) and phosphofructokinase (PFK1/PFK2) genes boosted S7P/shinorine production via independent mechanisms. Unexpectedly, the enhanced S7P/shinorine production in the PFK mutants was not entirely due to increased flux towards the pentose phosphate pathway. We provide multiple lines of evidence in support of a reversed pathway between glycolysis and the non-oxidative pentose phosphate pathway (NOPPP) that boosts S7P/shinorine production in the phosphofructokinase mutant cells.

CONCLUSION

Reversing the direction of flux between glycolysis and the NOPPP offers a novel metabolic engineering strategy in Saccharomyces cerevisiae.

Rosarugosides A and D from Rosa rugosa Flower Buds: Their Potential Anti-Skin-Aging Effects in TNF-α-Induced Human Dermal Fibroblasts

This present study investigated the anti-skin-aging properties of Rosa rugosa. Initially, phenolic compounds were isolated from a hot water extract of Rosa rugosa's flower buds. Through repeated chromatography (column chromatography, MPLC, and prep HPLC), we identified nine phenolic compounds (1-9), including a previously undescribed depside, rosarugoside D (1). The chemical structure of 1 was elucidated via NMR, HR-MS, UV, and hydrolysis. Next, in order to identify bioactive compounds that are effective against TNF-α-induced NHDF cells, we measured intracellular ROS production in samples treated with each of the isolated compounds (1-9). All isolates reduced the level of ROS at a concentration of 10 μM. Particularly, two depsides-rosarugosides A and D (2 and 1)-significantly inhibited ROS expression in TNF-α-induced NHDFs compared to the other phenolic compounds. Subsequently, the production of MMP-1 and procollagen type Ι α1 by these two depsides was examined. Remarkably, rosarugoside A (2) significantly decreased MMP-1 secretion at all concentrations. In contrast, rosarugoside D (1) regulated the expression of procollagen type Ι α1. These findings collectively suggest that Rosa rugosa extracts and their isolated compounds, rosarugosides A (2) and D (1), hold significant potential for protecting against aging and skin damage. Overall, these findings suggest that Rosa rugosa extracts and their isolated compounds, rosarugosides A (2) and D (1), have the potential to prevent and protect against aging and skin damage, although more specific quantitative analysis is needed.

Mycosporine-Like Amino Acids as a Potential Inhibitor of Tyrosinase-Related Protein 1: Computational Screening, Pharmacokinetics, and Molecular Dynamics Simulation

Melanin is the major pigment responsible for the coloring of mammalian skin, hair, and eyes to defend against ultraviolet radiation. However, excessive melanin production has resulted in numerous types of hyperpigmentation disorders. Tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1) is a transmembrane glycoprotein enzyme found in many organisms, including humans, that plays an important role in melanogenesis. Thus, controlling the enzyme activity of TYRP1 with tyrosinase inhibitors is a vital step in the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems in humans. In the present investigation, virtual screening, pharmacokinetics, drug docking, and molecular dynamics (MD) simulation were used to find the most potent drug as an inhibitor of TYRP1 to effectively treat hyperpigmentation disorder. The 3D structure of TYRP1 was retrieved from the Protein Data Bank (PDB) database (PDB ID: 5M8M) and validated by the Ramachandran plot. Pharmacokinetics and drug-likeness showed that mycosporine 2 glycine (M2G) and shinorine (SHI) were the best compounds over other ligands in the same (P-1) structural pose. However, MD simulations of the M2G showed the highest CDOCKER interaction energy (-45.182 kcal/mol) and binding affinity (-65.0529 kcal/mol) as compared to SHI and reference drugs. The molecular binding modes RMSD and RMSF plots have exhibited more relevance to the M2G ligand in comparison to other drug ligands. The bioactivity and ligand efficiency profiles revealed that M2G is the most effective compound as a TYRP1 inhibitor. Thus, M2G could be used as a most effective drug for developing valuable sunscreen products to cure hyperpigmentation-related diseases.

The efficacy of antiaging cream with Oxalis dehradunensis R. ethanolic extract as skin aging care among woman agriculture workers

Skin damage and aging are potential health problems for woman agriculture workers. This study aimed to test the efficacy of Oxalis dehradunensis ethanol extract formulated in antiaging cream preparations as an aging treatment in women agriculture workers. The method carried out was an experimental study on woman agriculture workers who were willing to volunteer. The experimental scenario conducted related to the physical quality of antiaging cream products and the efficacy of creams on the skin as an antiaging treatment. Physical quality parameters of antiaging cream include organoleptic assessment, cream emulsion, homogeneity, viscosity, pH, distribution, and skin irritation test to evaluate potential side effects. Skin aging efficacy assessments were conducted on 12 subjects divided into four formula concentration groups. The physical skin identification parameters measured are moisture, pore size, pigmentation or spots, and wrinkles using a skin analyzer. The results found that O. dehradunensis leaf extract formulated as an antiaging cream can neutralize free radicals and is an effective countermeasure against premature skin aging. There were significant differences in the skin characteristics of woman agriculture workers who participated as samples. The formula with 5% concentrate and 7% extract of O. dehradunensis has provided a reaction and is more effective in continuous treatment. It provides skin moisture changes of more than 300%, disguises pore size and good pigmentation, and reduces wrinkles of farmers who are constantly exposed to chemicals and free radicals in their agricultural activities. The leaf extracts antiaging cream showed more significant changes in moisture and skin pigmentation. It was concluded that the use of O. dehradunensis leaf extract as the core ingredient of antiaging cream can be an innovation that is beneficial to the health of the farming community, especially among women agriculture workers.

Photoprotective effects of Lithospermum erythrorhizon and Pueraria lobata extracts on UVB-induced photoaging: A study on skin barrier protection

AIM

Lithospermum erythrorhizon and Pueraria lobata exhibit promising potential as cosmetic additives for mitigating skin barrier impairment induced by photoaging. Despite their potential, the precise mechanisms underlying their protective and ameliorative effects remain elusive. This study sought to assess the reparative properties of Lithospermum erythrorhizon and Pueraria lobata extracts (LP) on UVB-irradiated human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and explore the therapeutic potential of LP as a skin barrier protection agent.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Antioxidant activities were gauged through 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), and reactive oxygen species (ROS) assays. The expression levels of skin barrier-related markers, encompassing metalloproteinases (MMPs) and hyaluronidase (HYAL) were scrutinized using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA), reverse transcriptase (RT)-PCR, and Western blotting, with a particular focus on the involvement of the transforming growth factor (TGF)-β/Smad and nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) signaling pathways.

RESULTS

The study revealed that LP effectively scavenges free radicals, diminishes ROS production in a dose-dependent manner, and significantly attenuates UVB-induced expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 through modulation of the hyaluronan synthase (HAS)2/HYAL1 signaling axis in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Additionally, LP demonstrated enhanced TGF-β signaling activation, fostering procollagen type I synthesis, and concurrently exhibited mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK)/NF-κB signaling inactivation, thereby mitigating pro-inflammatory cytokine release and alleviating UVB-induced cellular damage.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the observed protective effects of LP on skin cellular constituents highlight its substantial biological potential for shielding against UVB-induced skin photoaging, positioning it as a promising candidate for both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Melanin Synthesized by the Endophytic Aureobasidium Pullulans AKW: A Multifaceted Biomolecule with Antioxidant, Wound Healing, and Selective Anti-Cancer Activity

INTRODUCTION

This study explores the potential of the endophytic fungus Aureobasidium pullulans AKW for melanin production and its anticancer activity.

METHOD

We report a significant achievement: A. pullulans AKW synthesized 4.89 g/l of melanin in a simple fermentation medium devoid of tyrosine, a precursor typically required for melanin biosynthesis. This suggests a potentially novel pathway for melanin production compared to previous studies relying on complex media and tyrosine. Furthermore, the isolated and characterized melanin exhibited promising selectivity as an anti-cancer agent. It triggered apoptosis in A431 cancer cells, demonstrating some selectivity compared to normal cells. This selectivity was confirmed by IC50 values and further supported by gene expression changes in A431 cells. Melanin treatment downregulated the anti-apoptotic Bcl2 gene while upregulating pro-apoptotic Bax and p53 genes, indicating its ability to induce programmed cell death in cancer cells.

RESULT

Our results demonstrate that A. pullulans AKW-derived melanin exhibits cytotoxic effects against A431, HEPG2, and MCF7 cell lines. Interestingly, the present fungal strain synthesized melanin in a simple medium without requiring precursors.

CONCLUSION

The selective activity of the current melanin towards cancer cells, its ability to induce apoptosis, and its relatively low toxicity towards normal cells warrant further investigation for its development as a novel therapeutic option.

Predicting Anti-inflammatory Peptides by Ensemble Machine Learning and Deep Learning

Inflammation is a biological response to harmful stimuli, aiding in the maintenance of tissue homeostasis. However, excessive or persistent inflammation can precipitate a myriad of pathological conditions. Although current treatments such as NSAIDs, corticosteroids, and immunosuppressants are effective, they can have side effects and resistance issues. In this backdrop, anti-inflammatory peptides (AIPs) have emerged as a promising therapeutic approach against inflammation. Leveraging machine learning methods, we have the opportunity to accelerate the discovery and investigation of these AIPs more effectively. In this study, we proposed an advanced framework by ensemble machine learning and deep learning for AIP prediction. Initially, we constructed three individual models with extremely randomized trees (ET), gated recurrent unit (GRU), and convolutional neural networks (CNNs) with attention mechanism and then used stacking architecture to build the final predictor. By utilizing various sequence encodings and combining the strengths of different algorithms, our predictor demonstrated exemplary performance. On our independent test set, our model achieved an accuracy, MCC, and F1-score of 0.757, 0.500, and 0.707, respectively, clearly outperforming other contemporary AIP prediction methods. Additionally, our model offers profound insights into the feature interpretation of AIPs, establishing a valuable knowledge foundation for the design and development of future anti-inflammatory strategies.

Biotechnological Potential of Macroalgae during Seasonal Blooms for Sustainable Production of UV-Absorbing Compounds

Marine macroalgae (seaweeds) are important primary global producers, with a wide distribution in oceans around the world from polar to tropical regions. Most of these species are exposed to variable environmental conditions, such as abiotic (e.g., light irradiance, temperature variations, nutrient availability, salinity levels) and biotic factors (e.g., grazing and pathogen exposure). As a result, macroalgae developed numerous important strategies to increase their adaptability, including synthesizing secondary metabolites, which have promising biotechnological applications, such as UV-absorbing Mycosporine-Like Amino Acid (MAAs). MAAs are small, water-soluble, UV-absorbing compounds that are commonly found in many marine organisms and are characterized by promising antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and photoprotective properties. However, the widespread use of MAAs by humans is often restricted by their limited bioavailability, limited success in heterologous expression systems, and low quantities recovered from the natural environment. In contrast, bloom-forming macroalgal species from all three major macroalgal clades (Chlorophyta, Phaeophyceae, and Rhodophyta) occasionally form algal blooms, resulting in a rapid increase in algal abundance and high biomass production. This review focuses on the bloom-forming species capable of producing pharmacologically important compounds, including MAAs, and the application of proteomics in facilitating macroalgal use in overcoming current environmental and biotechnological challenges.

Exosomes derived from human dermal fibroblasts protect against UVB‑induced skin photoaging

Exosomes are used as innovative treatment options for repairing skin defects, such as aging, atopic dermatitis and wounds. However, the effects of exosomes obtained from human foreskin fibroblasts BJ‑5ta (BJ‑5ta Exo) on ultraviolet B (UVB)‑mediated photoaging have not been previously reported, at least to the best of our knowledge. Therefore, the present study aimed to investigate the anti‑photoaging effects of BJ‑5ta Exo on UVB radiation in human skin fibroblasts and SKH‑1 hairless mice. The results revealed that BJ‑5ta Exo decreased the production of reactive oxygen species and inhibited the decrease in the expression levels of superoxide dismutase 1 and 2, glutathione peroxidase and catalase following UVB exposure. In addition, BJ‑5ta Exo attenuated the decrease in nuclear factor erythroid 2‑related factor 2 levels induced by UVB rays, indicating its scavenging activity against oxidative stress. Moreover, BJ‑5ta Exo inhibited the UVB‑induced increase in the levels of γH2AX, p53/21 and cleaved PARP, whereas it promoted DNA double‑strand break repair through radiation sensitive 52 and effectively activated the TGF‑β1/Smad pathway. BJ‑5ta Exo also protected against UVB‑induced senescence, as indicated by the downregulation in the levels of senescence‑associated β‑galactosidase and p16. In a mouse model of photoaging, BJ‑5ta Exo prevented the UVB‑induced increase in transepidermal water loss, wrinkle formation and MMP‑1 expression, while also suppressing the UVB‑mediated decrease in collagen type I and elastin levels in the dorsal skin. Overall, the findings of the present study suggest that BJ‑5ta Exo represent an effective anti‑photoaging agent, which can be used as a component in cosmetic products.

Applications of mycosporine-like amino acids beyond photoprotection

Recent years have seen a lot of interest in mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) because of their alleged potential as a natural microbial sunscreen. Since chemical ultraviolet (UV) absorbers are unsafe for long-term usage, the demand for natural UV-absorbing substances has increased. In this situation, MAA is a strong contender for an eco-friendly UV protector. The capacity of MAAs to absorb light in the UV-A (320-400 nm) and UV-B (280-320 nm) range without generating free radicals is potentially relevant in photoprotection. The usage of MAAs for purposes other than photoprotection has now shifted in favor of medicinal applications. Aside from UV absorption, MAAs also have anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound-healing, anti-photoaging, cell proliferation stimulators, anti-cancer agents, and anti-adipogenic properties. Recently, MAAs application to combat SARS-CoV-2 infection was also investigated. In this review article, we highlight the biomedical applications of MAAs that go beyond photoprotection, which can help in utilizing the MAAs as promising bioactive compounds in both pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications.

Identification of Desiccation Stress-Inducible Antioxidative and Antiglycative Ultraviolet-Absorbing Oxylipins, Saclipin A and Saclipin B, in an Edible Cyanobacterium Aphanothece sacrum

Aphanothece sacrum, a freshwater cyanobacterium, is an edible cyanobacterial strain. We identified two compounds belonging to the oxylipin family that possess UV-absorbing abilities and accumulate in the dried sample of A. sacrum. The compounds, named saclipin A and saclipin B, exhibited strong UV-absorption properties with the absorption maxima at 316 and 319 nm, respectively, and the molar extinction coefficients of 26,454 and 30,555 M-1 cm-1, respectively. The chemical structures of saclipins A and B have been elucidated, revealing that they have an all-E and a 12Z isomeric relationship within the triene structure. The saclipins could be isomerized by photoirradiation, with the cis-form saclipin B proving to be more stable in methanol, ethanol, or acetonitrile. Under drought stress conditions, the accumulation of saclipins A and B in A. sacrum was found to be increased 20- and 10-fold, respectively. Purified saclipins from A. sacrum showed biocompatibility and valuable bioactivities. Specifically, saclipins exhibited radical scavenging activity, maintaining their activity even 40 min after the reaction began. Additionally, they demonstrated inhibitory activity against glycation of elastin and collagen, which are constituents of dermal tissue. Notably, saclipins showed higher activity than the well-known glycation inhibitor aminoguanidine against collagen glycation.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

New developments in sunscreens

Topical sunscreen application is one of the most important photoprotection tool to prevent sun damaging effects in human skin at the short and long term. Although its efficacy and cosmeticity have significantly improved in recent years, a better understanding of the biological and clinical effects of longer wavelength radiation, such as long ultraviolet A (UVA I) and blue light, has driven scientists and companies to search for effective and safe filters and substances to protect against these newly identified forms of radiation. New technologies have sought to imbue sunscreen with novel properties, such as the reduction of calorific radiation. Cutaneous penetration by sunscreens can also be reduced using hydrogels or nanocrystals that envelop the filters, or by binding filters to nanocarriers such as alginate microparticles, cyclodextrins, and methacrylate polymers. Finally, researchers have looked to nature as a source of healthier products, such as plant products (e.g., mycosporines, scytonemin, and various flavonoids) and even fungal and bacterial melanin, which could potentially be used as substitutes or enhancers of current filters.

Resilience and Mitigation Strategies of Cyanobacteria under Ultraviolet Radiation Stress

Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) tends to damage key cellular machinery. Cells may adapt by developing several defence mechanisms as a response to such damage; otherwise, their destiny is cell death. Since cyanobacteria are primary biotic components and also important biomass producers, any drastic effects caused by UVR may imbalance the entire ecosystem. Cyanobacteria are exposed to UVR in their natural habitats. This exposure can cause oxidative stress which affects cellular morphology and vital processes such as cell growth and differentiation, pigmentation, photosynthesis, nitrogen metabolism, and enzyme activity, as well as alterations in the native structure of biomolecules such as proteins and DNA. The high resilience and several mitigation strategies adopted by a cyanobacterial community in the face of UV stress are attributed to the activation of several photo/dark repair mechanisms, avoidance, scavenging, screening, antioxidant systems, and the biosynthesis of UV photoprotectants, such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), scytonemin (Scy), carotenoids, and polyamines. This knowledge can be used to develop new strategies for protecting other organisms from the harmful effects of UVR. The review critically reports the latest updates on various resilience and defence mechanisms employed by cyanobacteria to withstand UV-stressed environments. In addition, recent developments in the field of the molecular biology of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids and scytonemin and the possible role of programmed cell death, signal perception, and transduction under UVR stress are discussed.

Metagenomic insights into the effects of cosmetics containing complex polysaccharides on the composition of skin microbiota in females

Introduction

The use of cosmetics has become a habit for women. However, their influence on the microbial diversity of the skin has rarely been studied.

Methods

Herein, the effect of cosmetics containing complex polysaccharides on the skin bacterial microbiota of female forehead and cheek areas was analyzed. Eighty volunteers were recruited and split into two groups (40 people each); one group was treated with cosmetics containing complex polysaccharides and the other with basic cream for 28 days. Skin samples were collected using sterilized cotton swabs, and 16S rDNA high-throughput sequencing was used to analyze the changes in skin bacterial microbiota composition before and after the intervention.

Results and discussion

A total of twenty-four phyla were detected in the forehead and cheek skin samples of 80 volunteers, the top three of which were Proteobacteria, Firmicutes, and Actinobacteria. The main genera of the forehead skin bacterial microbiota were Cutibacterium (11.1%), Acinetobacter (10.4%), Enterococcus (8.9%), Ralstonia (8.8%), and Staphylococcus (8.7%), while those of the cheek skin bacterial microbiota were Staphylococcus (20.0%), Ralstonia (8.7%), Propionibacterium (7.9%), Acinetobacter (7.2%), and Bifidobacterium (6.0%). Compared with basic cream, the use of cosmetics containing complex polysaccharides significantly increased the relative abundance of Staphylococcus and Bacillus in the forehead and cheek and reduced the relative abundance of Propionibacterium and Bifidobacterium. Thus, cosmetics containing complex polysaccharides could modify the composition of skin bacterial microbiota, which may help to maintain stable conditions of the skin.

Halotolerance mechanisms in salt‑tolerant cyanobacteria

Cyanobacteria are ubiquitously distributed in nature and are the most abundant photoautotrophs on Earth. Their long evolutionary history reveals that cyanobacteria have a remarkable capacity and strong adaptive tendencies to thrive in a variety of conditions. Thus, they can survive successfully, especially in harsh environmental conditions such as salty environments, high radiation, or extreme temperatures. Among others, salt stress because of excessive salt accumulation in salty environments, is the most common abiotic stress in nature and hampers agricultural growth and productivity worldwide. These detrimental effects point to the importance of understanding the molecular mechanisms underlying the salt stress response. While it is generally accepted that the stress response mechanism is a complex network, fewer efforts have been made to represent it as a network. Substantial evidence revealed that salt-tolerant cyanobacteria have evolved genomic specific mechanisms and high adaptability in response to environmental changes. For example, extended gene families and/or clusters of genes encoding proteins involved in the adaptation to high salinity have been collectively reported. This chapter focuses on recent advances and provides an overview of the molecular basis of halotolerance mechanisms in salt‑tolerant cyanobacteria as well as multiple regulatory pathways. We elaborate on the major protective mechanisms, molecular mechanisms associated with halotolerance, and the global transcriptional landscape to provide a gateway to uncover gene regulation principles. Both knowledge and omics approaches are utilized in this chapter to decipher the mechanistic insights into halotolerance. Collectively, this chapter would have a profound impact on providing a comprehensive understanding of halotolerance in salt‑tolerant cyanobacteria.

Recent Advances and Future Prospects of Mycosporine-like Amino Acids

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are a class of water-soluble active substances produced by various aquatic organisms. However, due to the limitations of low accumulation of MAAs in organisms, the cumbersome extraction process, difficult identification, and high cost, MAAs have not yet been widely used in human life. Recently, there has been an emergence of heterologous synthesis for MAAs, making increasing yield the key to the quantification and application of MAAs. This review summarizes the latest research progress of MAAs, including: (1) introducing the biodistribution of MAAs and the content differences among different species to provide a reference for the selection of research subjects; (2) elaborating the species and molecular information of MAAs; (3) dissecting the synthesis mechanism and sorting out the synthesis pathways of various MAAs; (4) summarizing the methods of extraction and identification, summarizing the advantages and disadvantages, and providing a reference for the optimization of extraction protocols; (5) examining the heterologous synthesis method; and (6) summarizing the physiological functions of MAAs. This paper comprehensively updates the latest research status of MAAs and the various problems that need to be addressed, especially emphasizing the potential advantages of heterologous synthesis in the future production of MAAs.

Panax notoginseng alleviates oxidative stress through miRNA regulations based on systems biology approach

BACKGROUND

Herbal medicine Sanqi (SQ), the dried root or stem of Panax notoginseng (PNS), has been reported to have anti-diabetic and anti-obesity effects and is usually administered as a decoction for Chinese medicine. Alternative to utilizing PNS pure compound for treatment, we are motivated to propose an unconventional scheme to investigate the functions of PNS mixture. However, studies providing a detailed overview of the transcriptomics-based signaling network in response to PNS are seldom available.

METHODS

To explore the reasoning of PNS in treating metabolic disorders such as insulin resistance, we implemented a systems biology-based approach with RNA sequencing (RNA-seq) and miRNA sequencing data to elucidate key pathways, genes and miRNAs involved.

RESULTS

Functional enrichment analysis revealed PNS up-regulating oxidative stress-related pathways and down-regulating insulin and fatty acid metabolism. Superoxide dismutase 1 (SOD1), peroxiredoxin 1 (PRDX1), heme oxygenase-1 (Hmox1) and glutamate cysteine ligase (GCLc) mRNA and protein levels, as well as related miRNA levels, were measured in PNS treated rat pancreatic β cells (INS-1). PNS treatment up-regulated Hmox1, SOD1 and GCLc expression while down-regulating miR-24-3p and miR-139-5p to suppress oxidative stress. Furthermore, we verified the novel interactions between miR-139-5p and miR-24-3p with GCLc and SOD1.

CONCLUSION

This work has demonstrated the mechanism of how PNS regulates cellular molecules in metabolic disorders. Therefore, combining omics data with a systems biology strategy could be a practical means to explore the potential function and molecular mechanisms of Chinese herbal medicine in the treatment of metabolic disorders.

Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of rape bee pollen after fermentation and their correlation with chemical components by ultra-performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time of flight mass spectrometry-based untargeted metabolomics

As a common food processing technology, microbial fermentation is becoming increasingly popular to promote the bioactivity of materials. This study aims to enhance rape bee pollen bioactivity through fermentation and trace the potential components associated with its bioactivity. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities of unfermented bee pollen and fermented bee pollen were evaluated, and their correlation with differential metabolites was analyzed. The results indicated that fermentation significantly (p < 0.05) improved the antioxidant (>2.3-fold) and anti-inflammatory (>1.36-fold) activities of bee pollen, and increased the contents of total phenolics and flavonoids by 1.99 and 1.53 folds. Moreover, the correlation analysis results indicated that 15 components, including three phenolamides, one flavonoid aglycone, seven fatty acids, three amino acids and one ketone compound, were positively correlated with bee pollen antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. These results suggest that fermentation is a promising approach to increase the bioactivity of bee pollen.

Therapeutic Potential of Polyphenols and Other Micronutrients of Marine Origin

Polyphenols are compounds found in various plants and foods, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Recently, researchers have been exploring the therapeutic potential of marine polyphenols and other minor nutrients that are found in algae, fish and crustaceans. These compounds have unique chemical structures and exhibit diverse biological properties, including anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial and antitumor action. Due to these properties, marine polyphenols are being investigated as possible therapeutic agents for the treatment of a wide variety of conditions, such as cardiovascular disease, diabetes, neurodegenerative diseases and cancer. This review focuses on the therapeutic potential of marine polyphenols and their applications in human health, and also, in marine phenolic classes, the extraction methods, purification techniques and future applications of marine phenolic compounds.

Enzymatic Deglycation of Damaged Skin by Means of Combined Treatment of Fructosamine-3-Kinase and Fructosyl-Amino Acid Oxidase

The consensus in aging is that inflammation, cellular senescence, free radicals, and epigenetics are contributing factors. Skin glycation through advanced glycation end products (AGEs) has a crucial role in aging. Additionally, it has been suggested that their presence in scars leads to elasticity loss. This manuscript reports fructosamine-3-kinase (FN3K) and fructosyl-amino acid oxidase (FAOD) in counteracting skin glycation by AGEs. Skin specimens were obtained (n = 19) and incubated with glycolaldehyde (GA) for AGE induction. FN3K and FAOD were used as monotherapy or combination therapy. Negative and positive controls were treated with phosphate-buffered saline and aminoguanidine, respectively. Autofluorescence (AF) was used to measure deglycation. An excised hypertrophic scar tissue (HTS) (n = 1) was treated. Changes in chemical bonds and elasticity were evaluated using mid-infrared spectroscopy (MIR) and skin elongation, respectively. Specimens treated with FN3K and FAOD in monotherapy achieved an average decrease of 31% and 33% in AF values, respectively. When treatments were combined, a decrease of 43% was achieved. The positive control decreased by 28%, whilst the negative control showed no difference. Elongation testing of HTS showed a significant elasticity improvement after FN3K treatment. ATR-IR spectra demonstrated differences in chemical bounds pre- versus post-treatment. FN3K and FAOD can achieve deglycation and the effects are most optimal when combined in one treatment.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

Protective Effect of Sargassum fusiforme Fucoidan against Ethanol-Induced Oxidative Damage in In Vitro and In Vivo Models

Our previous studies have evaluated the bioactivities of a fucoidan isolated from Sargassum fusiforme (SF-F). To further investigate the health benefit of SF-F, in the present study, the protective effect of SF-F against ethanol (EtOH)-induced oxidative damage has been evaluated in in vitro and in vivo models. SF-F effectively improved the viability of EtOH-treated Chang liver cells by suppressing apoptosis. In addition, the in vivo test results indicate that SF-F significantly and dose-dependently increased the survival rate of zebrafish treated with EtOH. Further research results show that this action works through decreasing cell death via reduced lipid peroxidation by scavenging intracellular reactive oxygen species in EtOH-stimulated zebrafish. These results indicate that SF-F effectively protected Chang liver cells and zebrafish against EtOH-induced oxidative damage and suggest the potential of SF-F to be used as an ingredient in the functional food industry.

Essential Oil Compounds of Andaliman (Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC.) Fruit Varieties and Their Utilization as Skin Anti-Aging Using Molecular Docking

Exposure to UV/infrared (IR) radiation is the main extrinsic factor that changes skin morphology and affects the increase in reactive oxygen species (ROS) in skin aging. Ten varieties of andaliman (Zanthoxylum acanthopodium DC.) fruit are presumed to have skin anti-aging compounds via an enzyme-inhibition mechanism. This study aims to compare ten essential oils (EOs) of andaliman fruit varieties, group them according to their varieties, and obtain the chemical components that can be used as potential skin anti-aging agents using molecular docking. EOs were isolated by hydrodistillation, and the determination of the chemical compounds was performed using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). Using the Orange data mining software, a heatmap was used for grouping and showing the abundance of the compounds of ten varieties. Finally, molecular docking was conducted using the software AutoDockTools 1.5.7. There were 97 chemical components in the ten EOs of andaliman fruit varieties, with the main chemical components being geranyl acetate (29.87%) and D-limonene (26.49%), and they were grouped into three clusters. The chemical components that are prospective candidates as skin anti-aging agents are geranyl acetate and D-limonene, found in abundance in the Sihalus variety of andaliman fruit. These can be developed for applications in the pharmaceutical industry.

Immunomodulatory effects of graded levels of docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) in common carp (Cyprinus carpio) - In vitro and in vivo approaches

The D-series resolvins formed from docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) work as anti-inflammatory mediators indicating the role of this long-chain polyunsaturated fatty acid in the immune system of mammals. However, such information is still limited in fish. The current study was conducted to evaluate the immunomodulatory effects of graded levels of DHA in common carp Cyprinus carpio by in vitro and in vivo approaches. In the in vitro experiment, the head kidney leukocytes isolated from common carp (body weight = 120.3 ± 12.4 g) were exposed to DHA at 0, 15, and 75 μM (corresponding to DHA0, DHA15, and DHA75) for 1 h; the cells were then immediately exposed to lipopolysaccharides (LPS) at a dose of 10 μg/ml for 4 or 24 h to stimulate the pro-inflammatory responses. The expression of several target genes involved in the inflammatory response (tlr4, nfkb, il-1, il-6, pge2, pla2, nf-kbi, il-10, and tgf-β1) and cytoprotection (hsp70, gpx1, and prdx3) was then assessed by RT-qPCR. Results showed that the pro-inflammatory response induced by LPS was confirmed through the upregulations of il-1 and il-6 expressions in the DHA0 group after 4 h of LPS exposure. The downregulations of il-6 in DHA15 and DHA75 cells after 4 h of LPS exposure compared to DHA0 indicated that the free DHA supplementation in the cell culture medium induced an anti-inflammatory response. Decreases of il-10 and nf-kbi expression were also observed in DHA-treated groups and the highest expression of hsp70 in DHA75 cells. In the in vivo experiment, common carp juveniles (21.7 ± 0.9 g) were fed to apparent satiation with a diet supplemented with DHA at 0, 6, and 20 g/kg for 8 weeks. After the feeding trial, the fish were challenged with Aeromonas veronii at 2.1 × 10⁷ CFU/ml and the fish mortality was then recorded during 14 days. At the end of the feeding trial and the second day of bacterial infection, fish blood samples were collected for haematological parameters while liver and head kidney were used for assaying different immune variables. Results showed that the DHA supplementation in fish diet did not influence the fish growth and other husbandry parameters. The lowest value of fish mortality was recorded in DHA20-fed fish. The positive effects of DHA-supplemented diets were also found in myeloperoxidase (MPO), glutathione (GSH), and catalase (CAT) activities. In conclusion, the results suggest that DHA is able to modulate the inflammatory response in the immune celsl at a dose of 75 μM/mL and to boost disease resistance in common carp fed on a diet supplemented with DHA at 20 g/kg of feed.

Lamprey Wound Healing and Regenerative Effects: The Collaborative Efforts of Diverse Drivers

Skin is a natural barrier between the body and the external environment, and this important multifunctional organ plays roles in body temperature regulation, sensory stimulation, mucus secretion, metabolite excretion and immune defense. Lampreys, as ancient vertebrates, rarely experience infection of damaged skin during farming and efficiently promote skin wound healing. However, the mechanism underlying these wound healing and regenerative effects is unclear. Our histology and transcriptomics results demonstrate that lampreys regenerate a nearly complete skin structure in damaged epidermis, including the secretory glands, and will almost not be infected, even if experiencing full-thickness damage. In addition, ATGL, DGL and MGL participate in the lipolysis process to provide space for infiltrating cells. A large number of red blood cells migrate to the site of injury and exert proinflammatory effects, upregulating the expression of proinflammatory factors such as IL-8 and IL-17. Based on a lamprey skin damage healing model, adipocytes and red blood cells in the subcutaneous fat layer can promote wound healing, which provides a new approach for the study of skin healing mechanisms. Transcriptome data reveal that mechanical signal transduction pathways are mainly regulated by focal adhesion kinase and that the actin cytoskeleton plays an important role in the healing of lamprey skin injuries. We identified RAC1 as a key regulatory gene that is necessary and partially sufficient for wound regeneration. Insights into the mechanisms of lamprey skin injury and healing will provide a theoretical basis for overcoming the challenges associated with chronic healing and scar healing in the clinic.

Seaweed for climate mitigation, wastewater treatment, bioenergy, bioplastic, biochar, food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics: a review

The development and recycling of biomass production can partly solve issues of energy, climate change, population growth, food and feed shortages, and environmental pollution. For instance, the use of seaweeds as feedstocks can reduce our reliance on fossil fuel resources, ensure the synthesis of cost-effective and eco-friendly products and biofuels, and develop sustainable biorefinery processes. Nonetheless, seaweeds use in several biorefineries is still in the infancy stage compared to terrestrial plants-based lignocellulosic biomass. Therefore, here we review seaweed biorefineries with focus on seaweed production, economical benefits, and seaweed use as feedstock for anaerobic digestion, biochar, bioplastics, crop health, food, livestock feed, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Globally, seaweeds could sequester between 61 and 268 megatonnes of carbon per year, with an average of 173 megatonnes. Nearly 90% of carbon is sequestered by exporting biomass to deep water, while the remaining 10% is buried in coastal sediments. 500 gigatonnes of seaweeds could replace nearly 40% of the current soy protein production. Seaweeds contain valuable bioactive molecules that could be applied as antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiviral, antifungal, anticancer, contraceptive, anti-inflammatory, anti-coagulants, and in other cosmetics and skincare products.

Sustainable Production of Shinorine from Lignocellulosic Biomass by Metabolically Engineered Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) have been used in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The purpose of this work was to develop yeast strains for sustainable and economical production of MAAs, especially shinorine. First, genes involved in MAA biosynthetic pathway from Actinosynnema mirum were introduced into Saccharomyces cerevisiae for heterologous shinorine production. Second, combinatorial expression of wild and mutant xylose reductase was adopted in the engineered S. cerevisiae to facilitate xylose utilization in the pentose phosphate pathway. Finally, the accumulation of sedoheptulose 7-phosphate (S7P) was attempted by deleting transaldolase-encoding TAL1 in the pentose phosphate pathway to increase carbon flux toward shinorine production. In fed-batch fermentation, the engineered strain (DXdT-M) produced 751 mg/L shinorine in 71 h. Ultimately, 54 mg/L MAAs was produced by DXdT-M from rice straw hydrolysate. The results suggest that shinorine production by S. cerevisiae might be a promising process for sustainable production and industrial applications.

Dieckol Isolated from Eisenia bicyclis Ameliorates Wrinkling and Improves Skin Hydration via MAPK/AP-1 and TGF-β/Smad Signaling Pathways in UVB-Irradiated Hairless Mice

Repetitive exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) is one of the main causes of skin photoaging. We previously reported that dieckol isolated from Eisenia bicyclis extract has potential anti-photoaging effects in UVB-irradiated Hs68 cells. Here, we aimed to evaluate the anti-photoaging activity of dieckol in a UVB-irradiated hairless mouse model. In this study, hairless mice were exposed to UVB for eight weeks. At the same time, dieckol at two doses (5 or 10 mg/kg) was administered orally three times a week. We found that dieckol suppressed UVB-induced collagen degradation and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs)-1, -3, and -9 expression by regulating transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β)/Smad2/3 and mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs)/activator protein-1 (AP-1) signaling. In addition, dieckol rescued the production of hyaluronic acid (HA) and effectively restored the mRNA expression of hyaluronan synthase (HAS)-1/-2 and hyaluronidase (HYAL)-1/-2 in UVB-irradiated hairless mice. We observed a significant reduction in transepidermal water loss (TEWL), epidermal/dermal thickness, and wrinkle formation in hairless mice administered dieckol. Based on these results, we suggest that dieckol, due to its anti-photoaging role, may be used as a nutricosmetic ingredient for improving skin health.

Cosmeceutical Effects of Ishige okamurae Celluclast Extract

Sulfated polysaccharides extracted from brown algae are unique algal polysaccharides and potential ingredients in the cosmeceutical, functional food, and pharmaceutical industries. Therefore, the present study evaluated the cosmeceutical effects, including antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammation, and photoprotective activities, of Ishige okamurae Celluclast extract (IOC). The IOC was abundant in sulfated polysaccharides (48.47%), polysaccharides (44.33%), and fucose (43.50%). Moreover, the IOC effectively scavenged free radicals, and its anti-inflammatory properties were confirmed in lipopolysaccharide-induced RAW 264.7 macrophages; therefore, the IOC may produce auxiliary effects by inhibiting reactive oxygen species (ROS). In vitro (Vero cells) and in vivo (zebrafish) studies further confirmed that the IOC produced a protective effect against hydrogen-peroxide-induced oxidative stress in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, the IOC suppressed intracellular ROS and apoptosis and enhanced HO-1 and SOD-1 expression through transcriptional activation of Nrf2 and downregulation of Keap1 in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, the IOC exhibited a potent protective effect against ultraviolet-B-induced skin damage and photoaging. In conclusion, the IOC possesses antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective activities, and can, therefore, be utilized in the cosmeceutical and functional food industries.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

Bioassay-Guided Characterization, Antioxidant, Anti-Melanogenic and Anti-Photoaging Activities of Pueraria thunbergiana L. Leaf Extracts in Human Epidermal Keratinocytes (HaCaT) Cells

Although the roots and flowers of P. thunbergiana are known to have various physiologically active effects, studies on the anti-melanin production and anti-photoaging effects of its leaf extracts and cellular mechanisms are still lacking. In this study, we evaluated the possibility of using Pueraria thunbergiana leaves as a natural material for skin whitening and anti-aging-related functional cosmetics. The 30% ethyl alcohol (EtOH) extract from P. thunbergiana leaves was fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate (EtOAc), butanol, and aqueous solution to measure their whitening, and anti-aging effects. The EtOAc fraction contained a high content of phenolic and flavonoids and showed higher 1,1-diphenyl-2-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS) radical scavenging activities than the other fractions. It was also confirmed that the EtOAc fraction markedly inhibited α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanogenesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. In addition, the EtOAc fraction showed a protective effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) in HaCaT cells and increased the collagen synthesis that was decreased due to UVB exposure. Matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) activity and MMP-1 protein expression were reduced in human epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells. These results indicate that the EtOAc fraction has superior antioxidant activity, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-photoaging effects compared to the other fractions. Therefore, in this study, we confirmed the potential of P. thunbergiana leaf extract as a functional cosmetic ingredient, and it can be used as basic data for the physiological activity of P. thunbergiana leaf extracts.

Two Laminaria japonica Fermentation Broths Alleviate Oxidative Stress and Inflammatory Response Caused by UVB Damage: Photoprotective and Reparative Effects

UVB radiation can induce oxidative stress and inflammatory response in human epidermal cells. We establish a UVB-induced damage model of human immortalized epidermal keratinocytes (HaCaT) to explore the protective and reparative effects of Laminaria japonica on UVB-damaged epidermal inflammation after fermentation by white Ganoderma lucidum (Curtis) P. Karst and Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Compared with unfermented Laminaria japonica, fermented Laminaria japonica possesses stronger in vitro free radical scavenging ability. Laminaria japonica white Ganoderma lucidum fermentation broth (LJ-G) and Laminaria japonica rice wine yeast fermentation broth (LJ-Y) can more effectively remove excess reactive oxygen species (ROS) in cells and increase the content of the intracellular antioxidant enzymes heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and NAD(P)H quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO-1). In addition, fermented Laminaria japonica effectively reduces the content of pro-inflammatory factors ILs, TNF-α and MMP-9 secreted by cells. The molecular research results show that fermented Laminaria japonica activates the Nrf2 signaling pathway, increases the synthesis of antioxidant enzymes, inhibits the gene expression levels of pro-inflammatory factors, and alleviates cellular oxidative stress and inflammatory response caused by UVB radiation. Based on the above results, we conclude that fermented Laminaria japonica has stronger antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity than unfermented Laminaria japonica, possesses good safety, and can be developed and used as a functional inflammation reliever. Fermented Laminaria japonica polysaccharide has a more slender morphological structure and more rockulose, with better moisturizing and rheological properties.

Natural Compounds and Products from an Anti-Aging Perspective

Aging is a very complex process that is accompanied by a degenerative impairment in many of the major functions of the human body over time. This inevitable process is influenced by hereditary factors, lifestyle, and environmental influences such as xenobiotic pollution, infectious agents, UV radiation, diet-borne toxins, and so on. Many external and internal signs and symptoms are related with the aging process and senescence, including skin dryness and wrinkles, atherosclerosis, diabetes, neurodegenerative disorders, cancer, etc. Oxidative stress, a consequence of the imbalance between pro- and antioxidants, is one of the main provoking factors causing aging-related damages and concerns, due to the generation of highly reactive byproducts such as reactive oxygen and nitrogen species during the metabolism, which result in cellular damage and apoptosis. Antioxidants can prevent these processes and extend healthy longevity due to the ability to inhibit the formation of free radicals or interrupt their propagation, thereby lowering the level of oxidative stress. This review focuses on supporting the antioxidant system of the organism by balancing the diet through the consumption of the necessary amount of natural ingredients, including vitamins, minerals, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), essential amino acids, probiotics, plants' fibers, nutritional supplements, polyphenols, some phytoextracts, and drinking water.

Therapeutic Antiaging Strategies

Aging constitutes progressive physiological changes in an organism. These changes alter the normal biological functions, such as the ability to manage metabolic stress, and eventually lead to cellular senescence. The process itself is characterized by nine hallmarks: genomic instability, telomere attrition, epigenetic alterations, loss of proteostasis, deregulated nutrient sensing, mitochondrial dysfunction, cellular senescence, stem cell exhaustion, and altered intercellular communication. These hallmarks are risk factors for pathologies, such as cardiovascular diseases, neurodegenerative diseases, and cancer. Emerging evidence has been focused on examining the genetic pathways and biological processes in organisms surrounding these nine hallmarks. From here, the therapeutic approaches can be addressed in hopes of slowing the progression of aging. In this review, data have been collected on the hallmarks and their relative contributions to aging and supplemented with in vitro and in vivo antiaging research experiments. It is the intention of this article to highlight the most important antiaging strategies that researchers have proposed, including preventive measures, systemic therapeutic agents, and invasive procedures, that will promote healthy aging and increase human life expectancy with decreased side effects.

Premna microphylla Turcz pectin protected UVB-induced skin aging in BALB/c-nu mice via Nrf2 pathway

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation is one of the major risk factors for skin photoaging. The aim of this study was to investigate the protective effect of Premna microphylla Turcz pectin (PMTP) against UVB-induced skin aging in BALB/c-nu mice. PMTP was characteristic of a low methoxyl RG-I pectin with Mw was 26.60 kDa, mainly composed of galacturonic acid. PMTP-containing cream efficiently inhibited the water loss, epidermal hyperplasia, matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1), and collagen destruction in UVB-induced skin injury mice. Additionally, topical administration of PMTP-containing cream significantly increased protein levels of the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), Kelch-like ECH-associated protein 1 (Keap1), macrophage-activating factor (Maf), and heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), and the expression of antioxidant enzymes including superoxide dismutase (SOD), catalase (CAT), and glutathione peroxidase (GSH-Px). In contrast, application of PMTP-containing cream on mice skin decreased the protein levels of nuclear factor-kappa B (NF-κB), inhibitor kappa B kinase β (IKKβ), and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2), and pro-inflammatory cytokines. Taken togethmier, these findings suggest that PMTP might protect UVB-induced skin aging via activating Nrf2 pathway and suppressing NF-κB pathway.

Targeted Isolation of Two New Anti-inflammatory and UV-A Protective Dipyrroloquinones from the Sponge-associated Fungus Aspergillus tamarii MCCF102

In following up on observed in vitro anti-inflammatory activity of the organic extract of the marine sponge-derived fungus Aspergillus tamarii MCCF102, two new dipyrrolobenzoquinones, terreusinone B and C (1: and 2: ), were discovered along with the known analogue, terreusinone (3: ). The structures of 1: -3: were determined by spectroscopic and spectrometric analyses, along with chemical inter-conversion. In vitro testing on lipopolysaccharide (LPS) stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells revealed that 1: -3: exhibit anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting nitric oxide production in a dose-dependent manner (IC₅₀ < 1 µM) without any cytotoxicity observed at the same concentrations. Due to this and the UV-A absorptive properties imparted by the highly conjugated structures of these molecules, the potential for using 1: -3: or related analogues as natural sunscreen components is suggested. Gene sequencing and informatics biosynthetic gene cluster comparisons were insufficient to confidently elucidate the biosynthetic origins of these compounds, possibly suggesting the occurrence of a gene cluster not detected in the initial sequencing or a non-canonical pathway that should be further investigated.

Genome Mining as an Alternative Way for Screening the Marine Organisms for Their Potential to Produce UV-Absorbing Mycosporine-like Amino Acid

Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) are small molecules with robust ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing capacities and a huge potential to be used as an environmentally friendly natural sunscreen. MAAs, temperature, and light-stable compounds demonstrate powerful photoprotective capacities and the ability to capture light in the UV-A and UV-B ranges without the production of damaging free radicals. The biotechnological uses of these secondary metabolites have been often limited by the small quantities restored from natural resources, variation in MAA expression profiles, and limited success in heterologous expression systems. Overcoming these obstacles requires a better understanding of MAA biosynthesis and its regulatory processes. MAAs are produced to a certain extent via a four-enzyme pathway, including genes encoding enzymes dehydroquinate synthase, enzyme O-methyltransferase, adenosine triphosphate grasp, and a nonribosomal peptide synthetase. However, there are substantial genetic discrepancies in the MAA genetic pathway in different species, suggesting further complexity of this pathway that is yet to be fully explored. In recent years, the application of genome-mining approaches allowed the identification of biosynthetic gene clusters (BGCs) that resulted in the discovery of many new compounds from unconventional sources. This review explores the use of novel genomics tools for linking BGCs and secondary metabolites based on the available omics data, including MAAs, and evaluates the potential of using novel genome-mining tools to reveal a cryptic potential for new bioproduct screening approaches and unrevealing new MAA producers.