Natural phenolics in the prevention of UV-induced skin damage. A review

Naringenin, a flavanone constituent from Sea buckthorn pulp extract, prevents ultraviolet (UV)-B radiation-induced skin damage via alleviation of impaired mitochondrial dynamics mediated inflammation in human dermal fibroblasts and Balb/c mice models

Ultraviolet-B (UV-B) irradiation has been reported to cause oxidative stress and inflammation-mediated skin photo-damage. Furthermore, mitochondrial dynamics have been implicated to play a critical role in these processes. For the first time, we describe in this study how UVB-induced aberrant mitochondrial dynamics and inflammation interact in primary human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). Our findings demonstrated that UV-B irradiation induced -impairment in mitochondrial dynamics by increasing mitochondrial fragmentation in HDFs. Imbalanced mitochondrial dynamics lead to the activation of NFкB and pro-inflammatory cytokines. The current study further aimed to investigate the protective effect of Naringenin (a naturally occurring flavonoid isolated from Sea buckthorn fruit pulp) against UV-B-induced mitochondrial fragmentation and inflammation in HDFs and Balb/c mice. Although Naringenin has been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant potential, its effects and mechanisms of action on UVB-induced inflammation remained unclear. We observed that Naringenin restored the UV-B-induced imbalance in mitochondrial fission and fusion in HDFs. It also inhibited the phosphorylation of NFкB and reduced the generation of pro-inflammatory cytokines. Naringenin also alleviated UV-B-induced oxidative stress by scavenging the reactive oxygen species and up-regulating the cellular antioxidant enzymes (Catalase and Nrf2). Topical application of Naringenin to the dorsal skin of Balb/c mice exposed to UV-B radiation prevented mitochondrial fragmentation and progression of inflammatory responses. Naringenin treatment prevented neutrophil infiltration and epidermal thickening in mice's skin. These findings provide an understanding for further research into impaired mitochondrial dynamics as a therapeutic target for UV-B-induced inflammation. Our findings imply that Naringenin could be developed as a therapeutic remedy against UVB-induced inflammation.

Comparison of five retinoids for anti-photoaging therapy: Evaluation of anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidative activities in vitro and therapeutic efficacy in vivo

Over the past decades, increasing evidences have demonstrated that five retinoids, including retinol (ROL), retinol acetate (RAc), retinol propionate (RP), retinol palmitate (RPalm), and hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), can be potential therapeutic agents for skin photoaging. However, therapeutic efficacies and biosafety have never been compared to these compounds. This study aimed to determine the optimal retinoid type(s) for anti-photoaging therapy both in vitro and in vivo. Our data demonstrated that four retinoids (RPalm, RP, HPR and ROL) but not RAc were effective for anti-photoaging treatment at 5 μg/mL in vitro, with action mechanisms associated with antioxidative, anti-inflammatory and anti-skin ECM degradation activities. Notably, both RPalm and RP appeared superior to HPR and ROL for those activities. Importantly, both RPalm and RP were shown to be optimal for anti-photoaging therapy when topically applied at 5 mg/kg in a UVB-induced mice model of photoaging, which is consistent with their high anti-photoaging activities in vitro. Additionally, topical application of these five retinoids showed satisfactory biosafety without causing significant apoptosis in animal organs, although RP application led to a slight decline in animal body weights. Collectively, these data have laid a good foundation for the next development of the clinical application of these retinoids for skin healthcare.

Mitigation effect of hesperidin on X-ray radiation-induced intestinal barrier dysfunction in Caco-2 cell monolayers

The tight junctions (TJs) and barrier function of the intestinal epithelium are highly sensitive to radiation. However, polyphenols can be used to reverse the effects of radiation. Here, we investigated the effects of hesperidin (hesperetin-7-rhamnoglucoside) on X-ray-induced intestinal barrier dysfunction in human epithelial Caco-2 monolayers. To examine whether hesperidin mitigated the effects of X-ray exposure (2 Gy), cell survival was evaluated and intestinal barrier function was assessed by measuring the transepithelial flux, apparent permeability coefficient (Papp), and barrier integrity. Hesperidin improved the survival of Caco-2 cell monolayers and attenuated X-ray exposure-induced intestinal barrier dysfunction. For fluorescein transport experiments, transepithelial flux and Papp of fluorescein in control group were significantly elevated by X-ray, but were restored to near control by 10 μM hesperidin pretreatment. Further, X-ray exposure decreased the barrier integrity and TJ interruption by reducing TJ-related proteins occludin and claudin-4, whereas cell monolayers pretreated with hesperidin before X-ray exposure were reinstated to control level. It was concluded that hesperidin treatment before X-ray exposure alleviated X-ray-induced intestinal barrier dysfunction through regulation of TJ-related proteins. These results indicate that hesperidin prevents and mitigates X-ray-induced intestinal barrier dysfunction.

The Promising Role of Polyphenols in Skin Disorders

The biochemical characteristics of polyphenols contribute to their numerous advantageous impacts on human health. The existing research suggests that plant phenolics, whether consumed orally or applied directly to the skin, can be beneficial in alleviating symptoms and avoiding the development of many skin disorders. Phenolic compounds, which are both harmless and naturally present, exhibit significant potential in terms of counteracting the effects of skin damage, aging, diseases, wounds, and burns. Moreover, polyphenols play a preventive role and possess the ability to delay the progression of several skin disorders, ranging from small and discomforting to severe and potentially life-threatening ones. This article provides a concise overview of recent research on the potential therapeutic application of polyphenols for skin conditions. It specifically highlights studies that have investigated clinical trials and the use of polyphenol-based nanoformulations for the treatment of different skin ailments.

Bionic artificial skin with a fully implantable wireless tactile sensory system for wound healing and restoring skin tactile function

Tactile function is essential for human life as it enables us to recognize texture and respond to external stimuli, including potential threats with sharp objects that may result in punctures or lacerations. Severe skin damage caused by severe burns, skin cancer, chemical accidents, and industrial accidents damage the structure of the skin tissue as well as the nerve system, resulting in permanent tactile sensory dysfunction, which significantly impacts an individual's daily life. Here, we introduce a fully-implantable wireless powered tactile sensory system embedded artificial skin (WTSA), with stable operation, to restore permanently damaged tactile function and promote wound healing for regenerating severely damaged skin. The fabricated WTSA facilitates (i) replacement of severely damaged tactile sensory with broad biocompatibility, (ii) promoting of skin wound healing and regeneration through collagen and fibrin-based artificial skin (CFAS), and (iii) minimization of foreign body reaction via hydrogel coating on neural interface electrodes. Furthermore, the WTSA shows a stable operation as a sensory system as evidenced by the quantitative analysis of leg movement angle and electromyogram (EMG) signals in response to varying intensities of applied pressures.

A Review of Anti-Inflammatory Phytoconstituents Used in Herbal Cosmeceuticals for the Treatment of Atopic Dermatitis

Skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis affect babies, children, and adults and are characterized by red skin/spots, severe itching that appears on the face, head, legs, neck, and hands, and various causes of illness caused by various external and internal factors. AD is a type IIgE-mediated hypersensitivity reaction. Herbal preparations treat various dermatological diseases like dry skin, melasma, acne, and eczema. Cosmeceuticals are the connection between cosmetics and medicine, one of the world's most used forms of medicine. Cosmeceuticals products are beneficial in treating AD. Herbal cosmetics play a major role in curing various skin diseases. Today, various herbs used in cosmeceuticals have anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antibacterial, and antiseptic effects. Compared to synthetic preparations, herbal preparations have fewer side effects. This review paper introduces Atopic dermatitis, cosmeceutical, and various phytoconstituents like gallic acid, ferulic acid, boswellic acid, quercetin, and naringenin tetra hydroxyl flavanol glycoside, glycyrrhizic acid, epigallocatechin gallate, etc., used in atopic dermatitis.

Anthraquinones from Rhamnus alaternus L.: A Phytocosmetic Ingredient with Photoprotective and Antimelanogenesis Properties

The purpose of the present work was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant activity and an anti-melanogenic effect, containing an anthraquinone-enriched extract of Rhamnus alaternus (A.E.). Our findings demonstrated that A.E. decreased the levels of reactive oxygen species, DNA damage, and malondialdehyde induced by UVA in human keratinocytes and melanocytes. Furthermore, the calculated SPF value in vitro of the cream containing A.E. was 14.26±0.152. Later, it was shown that A.E. extract had an inhibitory effect on the amount of melanin. This extract could also reduce B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase activity. Besides, docking studies were carried out to provide a logical justification for the anti-tyrosinase potential. The findings showed that, A.E. may provide protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress and could be thought of as a viable treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Antioxidant and photoprotective role of latex C-serum from Hevea brasiliensis during 15-week UVB irradiation in male hairless SKH-1 mice

It is known that UVB radiation induces several adverse skin alterations starting from simple photoaging to skin cancer. In addition, it was demonstrated that reactive oxygen species (ROS) were found to be related to cancer development and progression. The aim of study was to examine whether male hairless (SKH-1) mice (Mus musculus) that were subchronically exposed to UVB radiation presented with actinic keratosis (AK) and squamous cell carcinoma lesions, and that treatment with latex C-serum cream significantly prevented abnormal skin development. Data demonstrated for the first time the photoprotective activity of latex C-serum extracted from the rubber tree Hevea brasiliensis var. subconcolor Ducke. Latex C-serum prevented the progression of AK to squamous cell carcinoma in SKH-1 mice, indicating that mice topically treated with latex C-serum presented only AK lesions and treatment with the highest concentration (10%) significantly reduced epidermal thickness, suggesting diminished cell proliferation. Latex C-serum protected the skin of mice against oxidative stress damage, increasing catalase (CAT) activity, regenerating glutathione (GSH) levels, lowering thiobarbituric acid-reactive species (TBARS) production and regenerating the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) of the skin. Evidence that UV radiation in skin induced systemic alterations and erythrocytic analysis indicated that latex C-serum increased CAT activity and GSH levels. Taken together these data indicate that latex C-serum plays an important antioxidant and photoprotective role, preventing serious damage to the skin following exposure to UVB radiation.

Novel Hydrogenated Derivatives of Chemically Modified Curcumin CMC2.24 Are Potent Inhibitors of Melanogenesis in an In Vitro Model: Influence of Degree of Hydrogenation

Chemically modified curcumin, CMC2.24, is a promising therapeutic that has shown efficacy in ameliorating excessive pigmentation in our previous studies. However, its inherent disadvantages of color, stability, solubility, and cytotoxicity to melanocytes and keratinocytes at concentrations > 4 µg/mL posed challenges in its use in cosmetic formulations. To overcome these limitations, chemical reduction by hydrogenation of CMC2.24 (compound 1) was developed to yield products at different time points of hydrogenation (1 h, 2 h, 4 h, and 24 h) referred to as partially (2, 3, 4) or fully hydrogenated (5) products, and the effects of the degree of hydrogenation on melanogenesis in vitro were explored. Compound 1 and products 2-5 were evaluated using mushroom tyrosinase activity assays with two substrates (L-tyrosine and L-DOPA), then cellular assays using B16F10 mouse melanoma cells, MNT-1 human melanoma cells, and physiological normal human melanocytes (HEMn-DP cells). The cytotoxicity, melanin contents, cellular tyrosinase activities, and cellular oxidative stress were evaluated. Moreover, the recovery of melanin contents in HEMn-DP cells was also studied. Our results provide novel insights into the role of the degree of hydrogenation of compound 1 on the biological effects of melanogenesis, which were dependent on cell type. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first study to show that in HEMn-DP cells, the anti-melanogenic efficacy of the yellow-colored CMC2.24 is retained as early as 1 h after its hydrogenation; this efficacy is enhanced with longer durations of hydrogenation, with a robust efficacy achieved for the 24 h hydrogenated product 5 at the lowest concentration of 4 µg/mL. A similar potency could be achieved for product 4 at higher concentrations, although interestingly, both differ only by a minor amount of dihydro-CMC2.24. Our results indicate promise for using products 4 & 5 as a skin-lightener in cosmetic formulations with the advantages of lack of color combined with a potency much greater than that of the parent compound 1 at lower concentrations and reversibility of the effects on melanocytes. This, along with the easy synthesis and scale-up of the hydrogenation method for CMC2.24 and the documented higher solubility, stability, and bioavailability of tetrahydrocurcumin, provides further impetus to incorporating these derivatives in cosmetic formulations. The results of this study can help to extend the therapeutic window of the lead compound CMC2.24 by providing options for selecting partially or fully hydrogenated derivatives for cosmetic applications where a trade-off between color and efficacy is needed. Thus, the degree of hydrogenation can be tuned for desired biological effects. Further studies are warranted to evaluate the efficacy of products 4 & 5 at suppressing pigmentation in 3D skin-tissue equivalents and in vivo models.

Melatonin inhibits senescence-associated melanin pigmentation through the p53-TYR pathway in human primary melanocytes and the skin of C57BL/6 J mice after UVB irradiation

UVB exposure accelerates skin aging and pigmentation. Melatonin effectively regulates tyrosinase (TYR) activity and aging. The purpose of this study was to determine the association between premature senescence and pigmentation, and the mechanism of melanin synthesis effected by melatonin. Primary melanocytes were extracted and identified from the male foreskin. To inhibit TYR expression, primary melanocytes were transduced with the lentivirus pLKD-CMV-EGFP-2A-Puro-U6-TYR. The wild-type TYR^(+/+) and TYR^(-/-) or TYR^(+/-) knockout C57BL/6 J mice were used to determine the role of TYR on melanin synthesis in vivo. Results showed that UVB-induced melanin synthesis is dependent on TYR in primary melanocytes and mice. Furthermore, in primary melanocytes pretreated with Nutlin-3 or PFT-α to up or downregulate p53, results showed that premature senescence and melanin synthesis increased in primary melanocytes after UVB irradiation at 80 mJ/cm², and further increased after being treated with Nutlin-3, while significantly decreased with PFT-α. In addition, melatonin inhibited UVB-induced premature senescence associated with inactivation of p53 and phosphorylation of p53 on Ser15 (ser-15), a decrease of melanin synthesis accompanied by reduced TYR expression. Moreover, skin erythema and pigmentation induced by UVB were reduced in the dorsal and ear skin of mice topically pretreated with 2.5% melatonin. These indicate that melatonin inhibits UVB-induced senescence-associated pigmentation via the p53-TYR pathway in primary melanocytes and prevents pigmentation obviously in the dorsal and ear skin of C57BL/6 J mice after UVB irradiation. KEY MESSAGES: P53 links UVB irradiation-induced senescence and senescence-associated pigmentation and regulates TYR in primary melanocytes after UVB irradiation. Melatonin inhibits senescence-associated pigmentation through the p53-TYR pathway in primary melanocytes. Melatonin prevents skin erythema and melanin pigmentation induced by UVB irradiation in the dorsal and ear skin of C57BL/6J mice.

Therapeutic and cosmeceutical role of glycosylated natural products in dermatology

Natural products (NPs) remain the primary source of pharmacologically active candidates for drug discovery. Since time immemorial, NPs have attracted considerable attention because of their beneficial skin effects. Moreover, there has been a great interest in using such products for the cosmetics industry in the past few decades, bridging the gap between modern and traditional medicine. Terpenoids, Steroids, and Flavonoids having glycosidic attachment have proven biological effects with a positive impact on human health. NPs derived glycosides are mainly found in fruits, vegetables, and plants, and most of them have a special reverence in traditional and modern medicine for disease prevention and treatment. A literature review was performed using scientific journals, Google scholar, Scifinder, PubMED, and Google patents. These scientific articles, documents, and patents establish the significance of glycosidic NPs in the areas of dermatology. Considering the human inclination to the usage of NPs rather than synthetic or inorganic drugs (especially in the area of skin care), in the present review we have discussed the worth of NP glycosides in beauty care and skin-related therapeutics and the mechanistic pathways involved.

Kinkéliba (Combretum micranthum) Leaf Extract Alleviates Skin Inflammation: In Vitro and In Vivo Study

Kinkéliba (Combretum micranthum, Seh-Haw in Wolof) is a popular bush tea in West African countries. Although the kinkéliba plant's leaves have been widely consumed for its nutritional and medicinal properties, its benefits on skin health potential have been practically untouched. In human epidermal primary keratinocytes, vitexin and isovitexin-rich kinkéliba extract treatment significantly (p < 0.001) enhanced up to 39.6% of the cell survival rate decreased by UV radiation irritation. The treatment of kinkéliba leaf extracts also reduced the production of UV-induced pro-inflammatory cytokines IL-6 and IL-8 by 57.6% and 42.5%, respectively (p < 0.001), which cause skin redness and skin barrier dysfunction, as well as wrinkles and collagen degradation. The anti-inflammation efficacy of kinkéliba leaf extracts might involve significant inhibition on the levels of cellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) (-70.8%, p < 0.001) and nitrotyrosine (-56.9%, p < 0.05). Further topical applications of kinkéliba leaf extract gel were found to reduce sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-induced skin inflammation: at D7, the skin trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin redness (a* value) were both reduced by 59.81% (p < 0.001) and 22.4% (p < 0.001), compared with D0. In vitro and in vivo data support a new topical application of the kinkéliba leaf as an effective active ingredient for the treatment of skin inflammation, as well as subsequent barrier dysfunction and inflammaging.

Survival of Nematode Larvae Strongyloides papillosus and Haemonchus contortus under the Influence of Various Groups of Organic Compounds

Many chemically synthesized xenobiotics can significantly inhibit the vitality of parasitic nematodes. However, there is yet too little research on the toxicity of such contaminating compounds toward nematodes. Compounds that are present in plants are able to inhibit the vitality of parasitic organisms as well. According to the results of our laboratory studies of toxicity, the following xenobiotics caused no decrease in the vitality of the larvae of Strongyloides papillosus and Haemonchus contortus: methanol, propan-2-ol, propylene glycol-1,2, octadecanol-1, 4-methyl-2-pen-tanol, 2-ethoxyethanol, butyl glycol, 2-pentanone, cyclopentanol, ortho-dimethylbenzene, dibutyl phthalate, succinic anhydride, 2-methylfuran, 2-methyl-5-nitroimidazole. Strong toxicity towards the nematode larvae was exerted by glutaraldehyde, 1,4-diethyl 2-methyl-3-oxobutanedioate, hexylamine, diethyl malonate, allyl acetoacetate, tert butyl carboxylic acid, butyl acrylate, 3-methyl-2-butanone, isobutyraldehyde, methyl acetoacetate, ethyl acetoacetate, ethyl pyruvate, 3-methylbutanal, cyclohexanol, cyclooctanone, phenol, pyrocatechin, resorcinol, naphthol-2, phenyl ether, piperonyl alcohol, 3-furoic acid, maleic anhydrid, 5-methylfurfural, thioacetic acid, butan-1-amine, dimethylformamide, 1-phenylethan-1-amine, 3-aminobenzoic acid. Widespread natural compounds (phytol, 3-hydroxy-2-butanone, maleic acid, oleic acid, hydroquinone, gallic acid-1-hydrate, taurine, 6-aminocaproic acid, glutamic acid, carnitine, ornithine monohydrochloride) had no negative effect on the larvae of S. papillosus and H. contortus. A powerful decrease in the vitality of nematode larvae was produced by 3,7-dimethyl-6-octenoic acid, isovaleric acid, glycolic acid, 2-oxopentanedioic acid, 2-methylbutanoic acid, anisole, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxybenzyl alcohol, furfuryl alcohol. The results of our studies allow us to consider 28 of the 62 compounds we studied as promising for further research on anti-nematode activity in manufacturing conditions.

The role of Gentiana lutea extracts in reducing UV-induced DNA damage

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation can result in DNA damage, mainly through direct formation of pyrimidine dimers and generation of reactive oxygen species, which can lead to the skin disorders including cancer. In accordance with this, the use of natural antigenotoxins and/or antioxidants could contribute to human health protection. Considering that plants are rich in both, the aim of this study was to investigate UV-protective and antioxidative properties of yellow gentian (Gentiana lutea), being well established in pharmacopeias and traditional medicine. Tested extracts were derived from root and shoot of the in vitro cultivated plants. Prescreening of the genotoxic properties of UVC, UVA, and the extracts, as well as the extracts' antigenotoxicity were estimated by applying alkaline comet assay on normal fetal lung fibroblast (MRC-5) and human melanoma cells (Hs 294T). Antioxidant potential was tested in ferrous ions chelating ferric reducing antioxidant power and cupric reducing antioxidant capacity assays. Genotoxicity testing, which revealed moderate DNA-damaging potential of root extract on MRC-5 cells and high genotoxicity of shoot extract on both cell lines, pointed out nongenotoxic concentrations that could be used in antigenotoxicity assay. Doses of 63 and 3 J/cm2 for UVC and UVA, respectively, were established for antigenotoxicity study, since they induced sufficient DNA damage without notable cytotoxicity. Results of antigenotoxicity revealed strong protective effect of both extracts against UVC (the highest inhibitions 58% and 47%) and UVA (the highest inhibitions 69% and 60%), in Hs 294T and MRC-5 cells, respectively. Study of the antioxidative properties demonstrated stronger activity of shoot extract. Results obtained proved to be encouraging but further research of the UV-protective role of Gentiana lutea extracts and underlying molecular mechanisms is recommended.

Trigonelline, a plant derived alkaloid prevents ultraviolet-B-induced oxidative DNA damage in primary human dermal fibroblasts and BALB/c mice via modulation of phosphoinositide 3-kinase-Akt-Nrf2 signalling axis

BACKGROUND

DNA is the main target for UV-B-irradiation-induced skin photodamage and accounts for 90 % of all the non-melanoma skin cancers.

PURPOSE

In this study, we explored the mechanistic basis of photoprotective effect of Trigonelline, a naturally occurring alkaloid from the Trigonella foenum-graecum, against UV-B-induced oxidative DNA Damage Response using Primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDFs) and BALB/C mice as models of skin photodamage.

METHODS

Primary HDFs were subjected to UV-B exposure (10 mJ/cm²) with or without TG for 24 h. Effect of UV-B exposure and TG treatment was evaluated by analyzing the cell survival, cellular morphology, oxidative stress & DNA damage response markers by performing biochemical studies, florescent microscopy & protein expression studies. In in-vivo study, TG pre-treated BALB/c mice were -irradiated with 180 mJ/cm² of UV-B dose thrice a week on alternative days for four months, followed by topical application of different concentrations of TG. The photodamage caused by UV-B exposure and its ameleoriation by topical treatment of TG was studied by physical and morphological appearance and analyzing the oxidative stress & DNA damage response markers from skin.

RESULTS

We found that TG significantly alleviates UV-B-induced cell death effects in HDFs. TG protects HDF cells and BALB/c mice from UV-B-induced DNA damage by regulating the expression profile of key protein markers of DNA damage which include P53, ATM, ATR, ϒH₂AX, Chk1 and Chk2. We found that TG offers geno-protection to UV-B-irradiated HDFs by alleviating CPD induction, reducing the number of TUNEL positive cells and by decreasing the expression levels of DNA damage marker protein ϒH₂AX in immunocytochemistry. Further, we found that TG prevents the UVB induced oxidative stress by activating the PI3K-AKT-Nrf2 signalling pathway. On employing PI3K inhibitor, LY294002, we found the expression of ϒH₂AX and p-P53 is significantly increased compared to UV-B treated only, indicating that TG mediates the geno-protection against UV-B irradiation via PI3K-AKT-Nrf2 signalling pathway.

CONCLUSION

Current study presents for the first time the photo-protective role of TG against UV-B-induced oxidative DNA damage and provides its mechanistic insights also and provide strong evidence for TG to be carried forward as a potential remedial and cosmeceutical agent against UV-B-induced skin photodamage disorders.

Mulberroside F from In Vitro Culture of Mulberry and the Potential Use of the Root Extracts in Cosmeceutical Applications

Mulberry (Morus spp.) is primarily used in sericulture, and its uses also extend to the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Mulberry extracts are rich in many bioactive compounds that exhibit a wide range of biological properties. Mulberroside F (Moracin M-6, 3'-di-O-β-D-glucopyranoside), one of the bioactive compounds found in mulberry, has previously been reported as a whitening agent by inhibiting melanin synthesis and exhibiting antioxidant effects. However, there is still limited information on the presence of this compound in plants cultured in vitro. In this study, the mulberroside F content, biochemical, and cytotoxic properties of the extracts from mulberry cultured in vitro were determined. The results revealed that both root and callus were found to be a potential source of mulberroside F. Furthermore, the mulberroside F content was positively correlated with the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity. Cell viability assay also revealed that crude extract of the mulberry root has no cytotoxicity in both human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and Vero cells. Taken together, mulberry tissue culture represents a possible alternative and continuous production of mulberroside F, which could be further utilized in cosmeceutical applications.

Limonene protects human skin keratinocytes against UVB-induced photodamage and photoaging by activating the Nrf2-dependent antioxidant defense system

Long term exposure to solar ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is one of the primary factors of premature skin aging and is referred to as photoaging. Also, mammalian skin exposed to UVB triggers an increase in production of α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), which is critically involved in the pathogenesis of hyperpigmentary skin diseases. This study investigated the protective effect of limonene on UVB-induced photodamage and photoaging in immortalized human skin keratinocytes (HaCaT) in vitro. Initially, we determined cell viability and levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Pretreatment with limonene increased cell viability followed by inhibition of intracellular ROS generation in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Interestingly, the antioxidative activity of limonene was directly correlated with an increase in expression of endogenous antioxidants, including heme oxygenase 1 (HO-1), NAD(P)H:quinone oxidoreductase 1 (NQO-1), and γ-glutamylcysteine synthetase (γ-GCLC), which was associated with enhanced nuclear translocation and activation of NF-E2-related factor-2 (Nrf2). Indeed, Nrf2 knockdown reduced limonene's protective effects. Additionally, we observed that limonene treatment inhibited UVB-induced α-MSH secretion followed by inhibition of proopiomelanocortin (POMC) via suppression of p53 transcriptional activation. Moreover, limonene prevented UVB-mediated depletion of tight junction regulatory proteins, including occludin and zonula occludens-1. On the other hand, limonene treatment significantly decreased matrix metalloproteinase-2 levels in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Based on these results, limonene may have a dermato-protective effect in skin cells by activating the Nrf2-dependent cellular antioxidant defense system.

Identification and Comparison of Bioactive Components of Two Dryopteris sp. Extract Using LC-QTOF-MS

Dryopteris sp. is known for its various pharmacological effects and is used as a traditional medicine in Asia. The present study investigated the chemical composition and antimicrobial activity of Dryopteris sp. distributed in Korea. The chemical compounds in the ethanolic extracts of Dryopteris lacera and Dryopteris bissetiana were investigated by ultra-high performance liquid chromatography-quadrupole time-of-flight-mass spectrometry analysis and identified by exploring the UNIFI traditional medicine library. Flavonoids such as juglanin, 6-hydroxyluteolin 7-O-laminaribioside, peltatoside, kaempferitrin, hyperoside, and astragalin were identified in both D. lacera and D. bissetiana. Neochlorogenic acid was identified as a caffeoylquinic acid in D. bissetiana. Both extracts of D. lacera and D. bissetiana exhibited antibacterial activity against Gram-positive pathogens, Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus mutans. The minimum inhibitory concentration of D. bissetiana against S. aureus was less than 625 ppm. The antibacterial activity was attributed to the identified phenolic compounds, juglanin, 6-hydroxyluteolin 7-O-laminaribioside, kaempferitrin, astragalin, and neochlorogenic acid. Therefore, D. lacera and D. bissetiana can be used as Gram-positive selective antibiotics for further investigation.

The nutritional functions of dietary sphingomyelin and its applications in food

Sphingolipids are common structural components of cell membranes and are crucial for cell functions in physiological and pathophysiological conditions. Sphingomyelin and its metabolites, such as sphingoid bases, ceramide, ceramide-1-phosphate, and sphingosine-1-phosphate, play signaling roles in the regulation of human health. The diverse structures of sphingolipids elicit various functions in cellular membranes and signal transduction, which may affect cell growth, differentiation, apoptosis, and maintain biological activities. As nutrients, dietary sphingomyelin and its metabolites have wide applications in the food and pharmaceutical industry. In this review, we summarized the distribution, classifications, structures, digestion, absorption and metabolic pathways of sphingolipids, and discussed the nutritional functioning of sphingomyelin in chronic metabolic diseases. The possible implications of dietary sphingomyelin in the modern food preparations including dairy products and infant formula, skin improvement, delivery system and oil organogels are also evaluated. The production of endogenous sphingomyelin is linked to pathological changes in obesity, diabetes, and atherosclerosis. However, dietary supplementations of sphingomyelin and its metabolites have been shown to maintain cholesterol homeostasis and lipid metabolism, and to prevent or treat these diseases. This seemly paradoxical phenomenon shows that dietary sphingomyelin and its metabolites are candidates for food additives and functional food development for the prevention and treatment of chronic metabolic diseases in humans.

Bioassay-Guided Skin-Beneficial Effects of Fractionated Sideritis raeseri subsp. raeseri Extract

This study aimed to evaluate the potentials for skin-beneficial effects of the hydroethanolic extract of the aerial parts of ironwort (Sideritis raeseri Boiss. & Heldr. subsp. raeseri) and its fractions (petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, n-butanol and water). For these purposes, chemical analysis and in vitro antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial assays, as well as determination of sun protection factor (SPF), were performed. The highest total phenolic content and quantity of individual flavonoids, chlorogenic acid and verbascoside were determined in the n-butanol fraction, which is in line with results obtained for antioxidant activity. The greatest antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, the most common causative agents of the skin infections in humans, was exhibited by the ethyl acetate fraction. The strongest anti-tyrosinase activity was shown by the hydroethanolic extract (52.64% of inhibition at 100 μg/mL). Almost all tested samples showed photoprotective activity with SPF higher than 6 obtained at a low concentration of 0.1 mg/mL, which was more than 15 for the butanol fraction. These findings revealed that the hydroethanolic extract of S. raeseri aerial parts could be a valuable ingredient in the formulation of cosmetic and medicinal products intended to overcome various skin disorders.

Photoprotective effect of 18β-glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives against ultra violet (UV)-B-Induced skin aging

Excessive exposure to sun can harm the skin, causing sunburn, photo-aging, and even skin cancer. Different benzylidene derivatives (A02-A18 and A19-A34) of 18β-Glycyrrhetinic acid (A01) were designed and synthesized in an effort to discover photo-protective compounds against UV-B -induced skin aging. The synthesized derivatives were subjected to cellular viability test using MTT assay in primary Human Dermal Fibroblasts (HDFs). The results indicate A01, A05, A15, A22, A23, A25, A26, A28, A29, A32, A33, and A34 significantly enhanced cell viability of HDFs. Compound A33 at 10 and 25 μM showed a significant photo-protective effect against UV-B (10 mJ/cm²) -induced damage in HDFs. A33 at 25 μM significantly restored the UV-B -induced damage via its potent anti-oxidant, anti-apoptotic effects and ability to prevent collagen degradation. These findings pave the way for further development of A33 as a photo-protective skin agent.

Potential Natural Biomolecules Targeting JAK/STAT/SOCS Signaling in the Management of Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic inflammatory skin disease caused by the dysregulation of cytokines and other immune mediators. JAK/STAT is a classical signal transduction pathway involved in various biological processes, and its dysregulation contributes to the key aspects of AD pathogenesis. Suppressor of cytokine signaling (SOCS) proteins negatively regulate the immune-related inflammatory responses mediated by the JAK/STAT pathway. JAK/STAT-mediated production of cytokines including IL-4, IL-13, IL-31, and TSLP inhibits the expression of important skin barrier proteins and triggers pruritus in AD. The expression of SOCS proteins regulates the JAK-mediated cytokines and facilitates maintaining the skin barrier disruptions seen in AD. STATs are crucial in dendritic-cell-activated Th2 cell differentiation in the skin, releasing inflammatory cytokines, indicating that AD is a Th2-mediated skin disorder. SOCS proteins aid in balancing Th1/Th2 cells and, moreover, regulate the onset and maintenance of Th2-mediated allergic responses by reducing the Th2 cell activation and differentiation. SOCS proteins play a pivotal role in inflammatory cytokine-signaling events that act via the JAK/STAT pathway. Therapies relying on natural products and derived biomolecules have proven beneficial in AD when compared with the synthetic regimen. In this review, we focused on the available literature on the potential natural-product-derived biomolecules targeting JAK/STAT/SOCS signaling, mainly emphasizing the SOCS family of proteins (SOCS1, SOCS3, and SOCS5) acting as negative regulators in modulating JAK/STAT-mediated responses in AD pathogenesis and other inflammatory disorders.

Profiling the Volatile and Non-Volatile Compounds along with the Antioxidant Properties of Malted Barley

In this work, the stability of antioxidant compounds in malting barley seeds before and after the production of the final products is reported. In this reflection, the findings revealed that the process of fermentation had a significant impact on antioxidant activity. In vitro, antioxidant capacities were evaluated using DPPH free radical scavenging assay. The results obtained from the spectrophotometric analysis showed that the lowest inhibition value was observed in the samples that were obtained by the classical fermentation process (ABC) and the samples of non-alcoholic beer obtained by the thermal process (NABT), with free radical inhibition capacity values of 8.50% and 5.50%, respectively. The samples of hopped wort (HW) and malted barley seeds extract (BSE) showed very high antioxidant activity with free radical inhibition capacity of 14% and 12.60%, respectively. The obtained extracts were analyzed by gas chromatography and high-performance liquid chromatography, both combined with mass spectrometry detection (GC–MS, HPLC–MS). GC–MS analysis of the SPME extraction showed the presence of 29 compounds with isopentyl alcohol in major concentration (18.19%) in the alcoholic beer; on the other hand, the HPLC–DAD–ESI/MS analysis of the ethyl acetate extract showed the presence of 13 phenolic compounds. Interestingly, the degradation of 3-Hydroxyphloretin 2′-O-glucoside in the final products of the non-alcoholic beers was found. Finally, the FTIR analysis was also employed in order to detect the type of efficient groups present in the extracts.

Resveratrol Treats UVB-Induced Photoaging by Anti-MMP Expression, through Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant, and Antiapoptotic Properties, and Treats Photoaging by Upregulating VEGF-B Expression

UVB exposure is one of the primary factors responsible for the development of photoaging, and the aim of this study was to investigate the mechanism involved in the photoprotective properties of resveratrol (RES) in UVB-induced photoaging. Photoaging models of Hacat cells and ICR mice were established by UVB irradiation. The effect of RES on cell viability was then assessed using the MTT assay. The effect of RES on reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was detected through a fluorescent probe assay. The effect of RES on oxidized glutathione (GSSH) content, and superoxide dismutase (SOD) activity in photoaging Hacat cells, were measured separately, using kits. An enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA) was used to measure the effect of RES on IL-6 secretion. The effect of VEGF-B on RES photoprotection was examined through the RT-qPCR method, after silencing VEGF-B through siRNA transfection. For animal experiments, the relative water content of the skin of ICR mice was determined using the Corneometer CM825 skin moisture tester. Starting from the third week of the study, the back skin of photoaging ICR mice was photographed weekly using the TIVI700 camera, and the depth of skin wrinkles in photoaging ICR mice was also analyzed. The thickness of the epidermis in photoaging ICR mice was assessed by the hematoxylin-eosin (HE) staining method. The content of collagen fibers in the skin dermis of photoaging ICR mice was measured by the Masson trichrome staining method. The content of collagen III in the dermis of the skin in photoaging ICR mice was measured through immunohistochemistry (IHC) techniques. The effect of RES on the mRNA expression levels of MMP-1, MMP-9, HO-1, GPX-4, IL-6, TNF-α, VEGF-B, caspase9, and caspase3 in photoaging Hacat cells, and that of MMP-3, Nrf2, HO-1, NQO1, SOD1, GPX-4, caspase9, caspase3, and IL-6 in the skin of photoaging ICR mice, was measured by RT-qPCR. The effects of RES on caspase3, Nrf2 (intranuclear), COX-2, P-ERK1/2, ERK1/2, P-P38MAPK, and P38MAPK in photoaging Hacat cells, and on MMP-9, caspase3, COX-2, P-JNK, P-ERK1/2, and P-P38MAPK protein expression in the skin of photoaging ICR mice, were assayed by the WB method. The results of this study, therefore, show that RES has a protective effect against UVB-induced photoaging in both Hacat cells and ICR mice. Its mechanism of action may include reducing the expression of MMPs and the secretion of collagen and inflammatory factors by inhibiting the ROS-mediated MAPK and COX-2 signaling pathways, balancing oxidative stress in the skin of Hacat cells and ICR mice by promoting the Nrf2 signaling pathway, inducing antiapoptotic effects by inhibiting caspase activation, and exerting antioxidant and antiapoptotic effects by targeting the VEGF-B, demonstrating its photoprotective effects against UVB irradiation-induced photoaging.

Effect of Ultraviolet B Irradiation on Melanin Content Accompanied by the Activation of p62/GATA4-Mediated Premature Senescence in HaCaT Cells

Objective

To explore the effect and mechanism of ultraviolet B (UVB) on melanin synthesis and premature senescence in human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) cells.

Methods

HaCaT cells were irradiated with 0, 20, 50, 80, 100, 150, and 200 mJ/cm2 of UVB. NaOH method was used for melanin content assay, cellular tyrosinase (TYR) activity was determined by 3,4-Dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine (L-DOPA) oxidation to dopachrome, premature senescence was analyzed by senescence-associated beta-galactosidase (SA-β-gal) staining kit, and the levels of p21, p16, p62, and GATA4 proteins were detected by Western blotting. Premature senescence was inhibited by the inhibitors of ataxia telangiectasia mutated (ATM) or ataxia telangiectasia and Rad3–related (ATR), and the p53 signaling pathway was activated by Nutlin-3. The mRNA levels of senescence-associated secretory phenotype (SASP) factors including tumor necrosis factor alpha (TNF-α), vascular endothelial growth factor A (VEGF-A), and interleukin-8 (IL-8) were measured by real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction in HaCaT cells after 80 mJ/cm2 of UVB irradiation.

Results

The melanin level increased significantly with the elevation of irradiation dose ( F = 28.19, 43.82, 143.60, P < .05), reaching the peak at the dose of 80 mJ/cm2. The tyrosinase activity increased significantly ( F = 84.50, P < .05), the percentage of premature senescence increased ( F = 16.31, P < .05), the levels of p62 decreased, and the level of GATA4 increased obviously with the increase of UVB dose after irradiation. The UVB-induced promotion of GATA4 level was significantly inhibited by being treated with ATM or ATR inhibitor. However, this did not occur in the Nutlin-3-treated group. The mRNA and protein expression of TNF-α increased significantly at 72 h at 80 mJ/cm2 of UVB irradiation.

Conclusions

Melanin contents increased first and decreased afterward with the increasing of UVB irradiation. The decrease of p62-mediated selective autophagy was accompanied by the accumulation of GATA4 after different doses of UVB irradiation. Activation of this p62/GATA4 pathway depends on the ATM and ATR but is independent of p53, and the SASP factor was activated in HaCaT cells at 80 mJ/cm2 of UVB irradiation.

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Carotenoids from Persimmon (Diospyros kaki Thunb.) Byproducts Exert Photoprotective, Antioxidative and Microbial Anti-Adhesive Effects on HaCaT

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki Thunb.) fruits are a remarkable source of carotenoids, which have shown protective effects against UV radiation in bacteria, fungi, algae, and plants. The aim of this study was to analyze the photoprotection provided by an acetone extract, rich in carotenoids and obtained from byproducts derived from the persimmon juice industry, against UV-induced cell death in the keratinocyte HaCaT cell line. For this purpose, the cytotoxicity and phototoxicity of carotenoid extract, as well as its intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging and anti-adhesive activities towards HaCaT cells, were evaluated. The in vitro permeation test provided information about the permeability of the carotenoid extract. Persimmon extracts, rich in carotenoids (PEC), were absorbed by HaCaT keratinocyte cells, which reduced the UV-induced intracellular ROS production in treated cells. Thus, PEC exerted a photoprotective and regenerative effect on UV-irradiated HaCaT cells, and this protection was UV dose-dependent. No cytotoxic effect was observed in HaCaT cultures at the concentration tested. PEC treatment also stimulated the adhesion capacity of skin microbiome to HaCaT cells, while exhibiting a significant anti-adhesive activity against all tested pathogens. In conclusion, PEC showed potential for use as a functional ingredient in skin-care products.

Novel UV filters from Pentacalia pulchella extracts with photoprotective properties and antioxidant activity

Most of the plant species found in the high mountain ecosystems of the tropics is unique and exceptional, because they have developed complex adaptations to survive in extreme environmental conditions, such as high levels of UVR and low temperatures of these ecological environments. In an exploratory study carried out on some plants of this ecosystem, we found that one of the most promising species was the Pentacalia pulchella (Kunth) Cuatrec. (Asteraceae) an endemic plant of Colombia, which grows between 2500 and 3500 m.a.s.l. Therefore, the objective of this work was to evaluate the photoprotective, antioxidant, and chemical composition of extracts from the leaves of P. pulchella. Extracts showed good absorption coefficients in UVA-UVB, high content of total phenols, with antioxidant activity comparable to that obtained with butylhydroxytoluene (BHT). Finally, the formulation labeled "7" with 10% extract presented adequate sensory characteristics for topical use, good in vitro photoprotection values in the UVA-UVB range (SPF (Sun Protection Factor): 7.3 ± 0.9, UVAPF (Ultraviolet A Protection Factor): 5.3 ± 0.6, λ_c 376), and antioxidant activity. Results obtained allow us to suggest that the extract of P. pulchella has a high potential as a source of new natural solar filters.

Antioxidant Bioactivity of Extracts from Beach Cast Leaves of Posidonia oceanica (L.) Delile

The marine environment is a generous source of biologically active compounds useful for human health. In 50 years, about 25,000 bioactive marine compounds have been identified, with an increase of 5% per year. Peculiar feature of algae and plants is the production of secondary metabolites, such as polyphenols, synthesized as a form of adaptation to environmental stress. Posidonia oceanica is a Mediterranean endemic and dominant seagrass and represents a biologically, ecologically and geologically important marine ecosystem. Within this study, methanolic and ethanolic extracts were generated from fresh and dried Posidonia oceanica leaves, with the aim to employ and valorize the beach cast leaves. The best yield and antioxidant activity (polyphenols content equal to 19.712 ± 0.496 mg GAE/g and DPPH IC50 of 0.090 µg/µL.) were recorded in 70% ethanol extracts (Gd-E4) obtained from leaves dried for two days at 60 °C and ground four times. HPLC analyses revealed the presence of polyphenols compounds (the most abundant of which was chicoric acid) with antioxidant and beneficial properties. Bioactive properties of the Gd-E4 extracts were evaluated in vitro using fibroblast cells line (HS-68), subjected to UV induced oxidative stress. Pre-treatment of cells with Gd-E4 extracts led to significant protection against oxidative stress and mortality associated with UV exposure, thus highlighting the beneficial properties of antioxidants compounds produced by these marine plants against photo damage, free radicals and associated negative cellular effects. Beach cast leaves selection, processing and extraction procedures, and the in vitro assay results suggested the potentiality of a sustainable approach for the biotechnological exploitation of this resource and could serve a model for other marine resources.

Exogenous Stilbenes Improved Tolerance of Arabidopsis thaliana to a Shock of Ultraviolet B Radiation

Excessive ultraviolet B (UV-B) irradiation is one of the most serious threats leading to severe crop production losses. It is known that secondary metabolite biosynthesis plays an important role in plant defense and forms a protective shield against excessive UV-B irradiation. The contents of stilbenes and other plant phenolics are known to sharply increase after UV-B irradiation, but there is little direct evidence for the involvement of stilbenes and other plant phenolics in plant UV-B protection. This study showed that foliar application of trans-resveratrol (1 and 5 mM) and trans-piceid (5 mM) considerably increased tolerance to a shock of UV-B (10 min at 1800 µW cm⁻² of irradiation intensity) of four-week-old Arabidopsis thaliana plants that are naturally incapable of stilbene production. Application of trans-resveratrol and trans-piceid increased the leaf survival rates by 1–2%. This stilbene-induced improvement in UV-B tolerance was higher than after foliar application of the stilbene precursors, p-coumaric and trans-cinnamic acids (only 1–3%), but less than that after treatment with octocrylene (19–24%), a widely used UV-B absorber. Plant treatment with trans-resveratrol increased expression of antioxidant and stress-inducible genes in A.thaliana plants and decreased expression of DNA repair genes. This study directly demonstrates an important positive role of stilbenes in plant tolerance to excessive UV-B irradiation, and offers a new approach for plant UV-B protection.

Olive Oil/Pluronic Oleogels for Skin Delivery of Quercetin: In Vitro Characterization and Ex Vivo Skin Permeability

The main objective of this study was to prepare and characterize oleogel as potential carrier for quercetin skin delivery. The formulations were prepared by adding olive oil (5-30%) to Pluronic F127 hydrogel and were evaluated for particle size, zeta potential, viscosity in vitro quercetin release and stability, and were compared with that of Pluronic F127 hydrogel. The selected formulation was characterized for its interaction possibility, ex vivo skin permeation and skin histological changes and safety. The particle sizes ranged from 345.3 ± 5.3 nm to 401.5 ± 2.8 nm, and possessed negative charges. The viscosities of the formulations were found in the range of 6367-4823 cps with inverse proportionality to olive oil percentage while the higher percentages showed higher quercetin release. Percentages of 25% and 30% olive oil showed instability pattern under the conditions of accelerated stability studies. Differential scanning calorimetry verified the existence of quercetin in micellar aggregation and the network in the case of hydrogel and oleogel respectively. Ex vivo skin permeation showed an improved skin permeation of quercetin when 20% olive oil containing oleogel was used. Skin histology after 10 days of application showed stratum corneum disruption and good safety profile. Based on these findings, the proposed oleogel containing 20% olive oil denotes a potential carrier for topical delivery of quercetin.

Anti-photoaging activities of Sorbaria kirilowii ethanol extract in UVB-damaged cells

Sorbaria kirilowii (Regel) Maxim, a plant found in China, Korea, Japan, and east of Europe, is a common herb used for traditional medicinal purposes. However, its ability to prevent photoaging has not been studied. In this study, we investigated the anti-photoaging functions of an ethanol extract (Sk-EE) of S. kirilowii (Regel) Maxim using human keratinocytes exposed to UVB. First, we analyzed the cytotoxicity of Sk-EE. Then, we determine the expression of genes related to inflammation, collagen degradation, and moisture retention. We also explored the anti-photoaging mechanism of Sk-EE by determining correlated signaling pathways and target molecules using reporter gene assays and immunoblotting analyses. Sk-EE treatment of cells increased hyaluronic acid synthase (HAS), filaggrin (FLG), and collagen type I alpha 1 (COL1A1) expression. Sk-EE dose-dependently inhibited the UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) 1, 2, 9 and cyclooxygenase (COX)-2 by blocking the activator protein (AP)-1 signaling pathway, in particular the phosphorylation of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), p38, and extracellular response kinase (ERK). In addition, c-Fos and c-Jun were targeted by Sk-EE. Our results indicate that Sk-EE has anti-inflammatory and skin-protective properties, and could be a candidate to treat signs of photoaging.

Tannic acid, a promising anti-photoaging agent: Evidences of its antioxidant and anti-wrinkle potentials, and its ability to prevent photodamage and MMP-1 expression in L929 fibroblasts exposed to UVB

Chronic and unprotect UV exposure leads to skin oxidative stress, following accumulation of damaged cellular components and downstream activation of specific signaling pathways, culminating in premature skin aging (photoaging). In this concern, polyphenols have been proposed for the prevention of skin disorders UV-generated. In the present study, we compared gallic acid (GA) and tannic acid (TA) regarding their potentials in prevent photoaging, using cell-free assays. The most promising compound was further investigated for its photoprotection abilities in UVB-irradiated L929 fibroblasts. TA was more efficient in scavenging radicals DPPH^•, superoxide anion, peroxyl, nitric oxide and peroxynitrite, and to reduce ferric ions. Although GA and TA exhibited similar inhibitory activity towards collagenase, TA was more potent in inhibit elastase. In addition, TA presented a broader UV absorption spectrum. Furthermore, TA treatment in UVB-irradiated cells attenuated redox imbalance, as observed by its ability to inhibit ROS production, NADPH oxidase activation and depletion of endogenous antioxidant defense system. Moreover, TA treatment prevented cellular photodamage and subsequently photoaging, by inhibiting lipid peroxidation, depolarization of mitochondrial transmembrane potential, DNA damage, and MMP-1 expression, a protein closely related to the structural degeneration of the dermis extracellular matrix. In conclusion, the results indicate the potential of TA in act as anti-photoaging agent, due to its potent antioxidant, anti-collagenase and anti-elastase activities, and UV-absorption effects, and its ability in prevent oxidative stress, oxidative damages and MMP-1 induction in UVB-irradiated L929 fibroblasts.

The beneficial role of functional food components in mitigating ultraviolet-induced skin damage

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation can chemically alter biological molecules and is one of the major environmental health risks with potential to damage the structure and function of the skin. Numerous dietary supplements are known to optimize the skin's defenses against radiation exposure. Several studies in which the beneficial roles of functional food components, that can protect against UV-induced skin damage, have been demonstrated. Supplemental dietary sphingomyelin maintains covalently bound ω-hydroxy ceramides to avert skin barrier defects after UVB irradiation. The oral administration of collagen hydrolysates has been shown to limit decreases in skin elasticity via increases in the dermal hyaluronic acid content. Milk fermented with lactic acid bacteria has been shown to augment DNA repair mechanisms and improve skin immunity in the aftermath of UVB damage. Furthermore, long-term ingestion of fermented milk containing lactic acid bacteria, collagen hydrolysates and sphingomyelin increases the minimal erythema dose (MED) in human subjects with moderate sunburn or redness and tanned skin after exposure to UV solar radiation. Thus, products containing these functional food components are one means by which the adverse effects of UV radiation on the skin can be mitigated.

Fabrication of polyvinyl alcohol hydrogels with excellent shape memory and ultraviolet-shielding behavior via the introduction of tea polyphenols

Shape-memory hydrogels are expected to be used not only in an ordinary environment, but also in some special environments, such as under ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. Developing novel shape-memory polyvinyl alcohol (PVA)/tea polyphenol (TP) hydrogels with UV shielding performance is realistically important in application fields. Herein, we designed functional PVA/TP hydrogels with excellent UV-shielding ability and improved the shape memory on hot water stimuli. This study shows that the abundant hydrogen bonds between PVA and TP are the source of shape memory. The PVA hydrogels with 8 wt% TP loading could approximately recover their original shape after deformation when immersed in water at 50 °C for 30 s. Meanwhile, the hydrogels also had excellent UV shielding capacity. After ageing under UV for 16 days, the observed shape of the hydrogel with 8 wt% TP loading retained 74.7% of the original, and the hydrogel could effectively protect the skin of mice from damage under 10 mW cm-2 UV irradiation. With the understanding of the UV-shielding behavior of hydrogels, this study has been able to generate biomedical materials for human skin protection, specifically skin covering the joint areas, where shape memory of the applied materials is essential.

Effect of Konjac Glucomannan (KGM) on the Reconstitution of the Dermal Environment against UVB-Induced Condition

Skin layers serve as a barrier against unexpected critical changes in the body due to environmental factors. Excessive ultraviolet (UV) B exposure increases the levels of age-related factors, leading to senescent cells and damaged skin tissues. Widely used as a dietary supplement, konjac (Amorphophallus konjac) glucomannan (KGM) has shown skin regeneration potential in patch or sheet form with anti-inflammatory or immunosuppressive effects. However, the ability of KGM to reconstitute senescent/damaged skin following UV radiation has not been explored. Here, we demonstrate that KGM alleviates skin damage by increasing the proportion of young cell populations in UVB-exposed senescent human epidermal primary melanocytes. Young cell numbers increased depending on KGM dosage, but the senescent cells were not removed. Real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR) and Western blot analysis showed that mRNA and protein levels of age- and pigmentation-related factors decreased in a manner dependent on the rate at which new cells were generated. Moreover, an analysis of mRNA and protein levels indicated that KGM facilitated youth by increasing cell proliferation in UVB-damaged human fibroblasts. Thus, KGM is a highly effective natural agent for maintaining skin homeostasis by promoting the reconstitution of the dermal environment against UVB-induced acute senescence or skin damage.

Topical Over-the-Counter Antiaging Agents: An Update and Systematic Review

Over-the-counter antiaging formulations aim to prevent or minimize the signs of aging skin, and to maintain the benefits obtained from different cosmetic procedures. Even though a huge selection of such products is available on the market, evidence and good clinical practice of the data supporting their use are oftentimes lacking. In this systematic review, the authors reviewed scientific data available in the published literature on the most common ingredients used in antiaging cosmetics, with a particular focus on in vivo studies.

Emerging Strategies to Protect the Skin from Ultraviolet Rays Using Plant-Derived Materials

Sunlight contains a significant amount of ultraviolet (UV) ray, which leads to various effects on homeostasis in the body. Defense strategies to protect from UV rays have been extensively studied, as sunburn, photoaging, and photocarcinogenesis are caused by excessive UV exposure. The primary lines of defense against UV damage are melanin and trans-urocanic acid, which are distributed in the stratum corneum. UV rays that pass beyond these lines of defense can lead to oxidative damage. However, cells detect changes due to UV rays as early as possible and initiate cell signaling processes to prevent the occurrence of damage and repair the already occurred damage. Cosmetic and dermatology experts recommend using a sunscreen product to prevent UV-induced damage. A variety of strategies using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory agents have also been developed to complement the skin's defenses against UV rays. Researchers have examined the use of plant-derived materials to alleviate the occurrence of skin aging, diseases, and cancer caused by UV rays. Furthermore, studies are also underway to determine how to promote melanin production to protect from UV-induced skin damage. This review provides discussion of the damage that occurs in the skin due to UV light and describes potential defense strategies using plant-derived materials. This review aims to assist researchers in understanding the current research in this area and to potentially plan future studies.

Simplified modeling of E. coli mortality after genome damage induced by UV-C light exposure

UV light is a group of high-energy waves from the electromagnetic spectrum. There are three types of UV radiations: UV-A, -B and -C. UV-C light are the highest in energy, but most are retained by the ozone layer. UV-A and -B reach the earth's surface and cause damage on living organisms, being considered as mutagenic physical agents. Numerous test models are used to study UV mutagenicity; some include special lamps, cell cultures and mathematical modeling. Mercury lamps are affordable and useful sources of UV-C light due to their emission at near the maximum absorption peak of nucleic acids. E. coli cultures are widely used because they have DNA-damage and -repairing mechanisms fairly similar to humans. In here we present two simple models that describe UV-C light incidence on a genome matrix, using fundamental quantum-mechanical concepts and considering light as a particle with a discontinuous distribution. To test the accuracy of our equations, stationary phase cultures of several E. coli strains were exposed to UV-C light in 30 s-intervals. Surviving CFUs were counted and survival/mortality curves were constructed. These graphs adjusted with high goodness of fit to the regression predictions. Results were also analyzed using three main parameters: quantum yield, specific speed and time of mortality.

Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes

Phytochemicals from functional foods are common ingredients in dietary supplements and cosmetic products for anti-skin aging effects due to their antioxidant activities. A proprietary red maple (Acer rubrum) leaf extract (Maplifa™) and its major phenolic compound, ginnalin A (GA), have been reported to show antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-glycation effects but their protective effects against oxidative stress in human skin cells remain unknown. Herein, we investigated the cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and methylglyoxal (MGO)-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). H2O2 and MGO (both at 400 μM) induced toxicity in HaCaT cells and reduced their viability to 59.2 and 61.6%, respectively. Treatment of Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) increased the viability of H2O2- and MGO-treated cells by 22.0 and 15.5%, respectively. Maplifa™ and GA also showed cytoprotective effects by reducing H2O2-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by 8.0 and 7.2%, respectively. The anti-apoptotic effect of Maplifa™ was further supported by the decreased levels of apoptosis associated enzymes including caspases-3/7 and -8 in HaCaT cells by 49.5 and 19.0%, respectively. In addition, Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) reduced H2O2- and MGO-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 84.1 and 56.8%, respectively. Furthermore, flow cytometry analysis showed that Maplifa™ and GA reduced MGO-induced total cellular ROS production while increasing mitochondria-derived ROS production in HaCaT cells. The cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA in human keratinocytes support their potential utilization for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Efficacy, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of New Polyphenolic Xanthones Towards Identification of Bioactive Compounds to Fight Skin Photoaging

Antioxidants have long been used in the cosmetic industry to prevent skin photoaging, which is mediated by oxidative stress, making the search for new antioxidant compounds highly desirable in this field. Naturally occurring xanthones are polyphenolic compounds that can be found in microorganisms, fungi, lichens, and some higher plants. This class of polyphenols has a privileged scaffold that grants them several biological activities. We have previously identified simple oxygenated xanthones as promising antioxidants and disclosed as hit, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1). Herein, we synthesized and studied the potential of xanthones with different polyoxygenated patterns as skin antiphotoaging ingredients. In the DPPH antioxidant assay, two newly synthesized derivatives showed IC₅₀ values in the same range as ascorbic acid. The synthesized xanthones were discovered to be excellent tyrosinase inhibitors and weak to moderate collagenase and elastase inhibitors but no activity was revealed against hyaluronidase. Their metal-chelating effect (FeCl₃ and CuCl₂) as well as their stability at different pH values were characterized to understand their potential to be used as future cosmetic active agents. Among the synthesized polyoxygenated xanthones, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was reinforced as the most promising, exhibiting a dual ability to protect the skin against UV damage by combining antioxidant/metal-chelating properties with UV-filter capacity and revealed to be more stable in the pH range that is close to the pH of the skin. Lastly, the phototoxicity of 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was evaluated in a human keratinocyte cell line and no phototoxicity was observed in the concentration range tested.

Protective Effect of a Fucose-Rich Fucoidan Isolated from Saccharina japonica against Ultraviolet B-Induced Photodamage In Vitro in Human Keratinocytes and In Vivo in Zebrafish

A fucose-rich fucoidan was purified from brown seaweed Saccharina japonica, of which the UVB protective effect was investigated in vitro in keratinocytes of HaCaT cells and in vivo in zebrafish. The intracellular reactive oxygen species levels and the viability of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells were determined. The results indicate that the purified fucoidan significantly reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species levels and improved the viability of UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Furthermore, the purified fucoidan remarkably decreased the apoptosis by regulating the expressions of Bax/Bcl-xL and cleaved caspase-3 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells in a dose-dependent manner. In addition, the in vivo UV protective effect of the purified fucoidan was investigated using a zebrafish model. It significantly reduced the intracellular reactive oxygen species level, the cell death, the NO production, and the lipid peroxidation in UVB-irradiated zebrafish in a dose-dependent manner. These results suggest that purified fucoidan has a great potential to be developed as a natural anti-UVB agent applied in the cosmetic industry.