Microparticles based on natural and synthetic polymers for cosmetic applications

Microplastic label in microencapsulation field - Consequence of shell material selection

Plastics make our lives easier in many ways; however, if they are not appropriately disposed of or recycled, they may end up in the environment where they stay for centuries and degrade into smaller and smaller pieces, called microplastics. Each year, approximately 42000 tonnes of microplastics end up in the environment when products containing them are used. According to the European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) one of the significant sources of microplastics are microcapsules formulated in home care and consumer care products. As part of the EU's plastics strategy, ECHA has proposed new regulations to ban intentionally added microplastics starting from 2022. It means that the current cross-linked microcapsules widely applied in consumer goods must be transformed into biodegradable shell capsules. The aim of this review is to provide the readers with a comprehensive and in-depth understanding of recent developments in the art of microencapsulation. Thus, considering the chemical structure of the capsule shell's materials, we discuss whether microcapsules should also be categorized as microplastic and therefore, feared and avoided or whether they should be used despite the persisting concern.

Formulation and Evaluation of Insulin-Loaded Sodium-Alginate Microparticles for Oral Administration

The development of oral insulin drug delivery systems is still an ongoing challenge for pharmaceutical technology researchers, as the formulation process has to overcome a number of obstacles due to the adverse characteristics of peptides. The aim of this study was to formulate different sodium-alginate microparticles as a possible method for oral insulin administration. In our previous studies, the method has been successfully optimized using a small model peptide. The incorporation of insulin into alginate carriers containing nonionic surfactants has not been described yet. In order to enhance the absorption of insulin through biological barriers, Labrasol ALF and Labrafil M 2125 CS were selected as permeation-enhancing excipients. They were applied at a concentration of 0.10% (v/v%), along with various combinations of the two, to increase oral bioavailability. Encapsulation efficiency showed sufficient drug incorporation, as it resulted in over 80% in each composition. In vitro dissolution and enzymatic stability test results proved that, as a pH-responsive polymer, alginate bead swelling and drug release occur at higher pH, thus protecting insulin against the harsh environment of the gastrointestinal tract. The remaining insulin content was 66% due to SIF degradation after 120 min. Permeability experiments revealed the impact of permeation enhancers and natural polymers on drug absorption, as they enhanced drug transport significantly through Caco-2 cells in the case of alginate microparticle formulations, as opposed to the control insulin solution. These results suggest that these formulations are able to improve the oral bioavailability of insulin.

Trends in biopolymer science applied to cosmetics

The term biopolymer refers to materials obtained by chemically modifying natural biological substances or producing them through biotechnological processes. They are biodegradable, biocompatible and non-toxic. Due to these advantages, biopolymers have wide applications in conventional cosmetics and new trends and have emerged as essential ingredients that function as rheological modifiers, emulsifiers, film-formers, moisturizers, hydrators, antimicrobials and, more recently, materials with metabolic activity on skin. Developing approaches that exploit these features is a challenge for formulating skin, hair and oral care products and dermatological formulations. This article presents an overview of the use of the principal biopolymers used in cosmetic formulations and describes their sources, recently derived structures, novel applications and safety aspects of the use of these molecules.

Acoustofluidics-Assisted Coating of Microparticles

Microparticles have been applied in many areas, ranging from drug delivery, diagnostics, cosmetics, personal care, and the food industry to chemical and catalytic reactions, sensing, and environmental remediation. Coating further provides additional functionality to the microparticles, such as controlled release, surface modification, bio-fouling resistance, stability, protection, etc. In this study, the conformal coating of microparticles with a positively charged polyelectrolyte (polyallylamine hydrochloride, PAH) by utilizing an acoustofluidic microchip was proposed and demonstrated. The multiple laminar streams, including the PAH solution, were formed inside the microchannel, and, under the traveling surface acoustic wave, the microparticles traversed through the streams, where they were coated with PAH. The results showed that the coating of microparticles can be achieved in a rapid fashion via a microfluidic approach compared to that obtained by the batch method. Moreover, the zeta potentials of the microparticles coated via the microfluidic approach were more uniform. For the unfunctionalized microparticles, the charge reversal occurred after coating, and the zeta potential increased as the width of the microchannel or the concentration of the PAH solution increased. As for the carboxylate-conjugated microparticles, the charge reversal again occurred after coating; however, the magnitudes of the zeta potentials were similar when using the microchannels with different widths or different concentrations of PAH solution.

Structural and mechanical analysis on mannuronate-rich alginate gels and xerogels beads based on Calcium, Copper and Zinc as crosslinkers

Beads based on a mannuronate(M)-rich alginate (86 % M units) were prepared by adding the polysaccharide solution to a crosslinking bath containing different concentrations (0.5, 2 and 10 wt%) of XCl2 where X = Ca, Cu or Zn. Primarily focus was on Zn, due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial capabilities. The beads were characterized by Field-Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FESEM), Fourier-Transform Infra-Red spectroscopy (FT-IR), Thermogravimetric Analysis (TGA), Small-Angle X-ray Scattering (SAXS) and compression tests. The crosslinking agent significantly influenced the properties of the resulting beads. Specifically, Ca-based beads exhibited a smoother surface, while Cu- and Zn-based beads appeared rougher. Interestingly, Zn-based beads displayed a core-shell structure. Young moduli ranged from 3500 and 7000 MPa, with the highest values observed for Zn-beads. SAXS investigation at 0.5 wt% XCl2 suggested increase in the densely packed domains amount in the order: Ca < Cu < Zn. Extended X-ray Absorption Fine Structure (EXAFS) showed that the coordination number was 4.3 ± 0.4 for Cu, and 4.0 ± 0.2 and 1.1 ± 0.1 for Zn in 0.5 wt% XCl2 alginate xerogels, in agreement with reported Density Functional Calculations on Cu2+- and Zn2+-MM complexes. The results from FT-IR, compositional analysis and EXAFS collectively suggested a bridging coordination for these systems.

Stability Studies, Biodegradation Tests, and Mechanical Properties of Sodium Alginate and Gellan Gum Beads Containing Surfactant

The excessive presence of single-use plastics is rapidly degrading our natural environment on a global scale due to their inherent resistance to decomposition. Wet wipes used for personal or household purposes contribute significantly to the accumulation of plastic waste. One potential solution to address this problem involves developing eco-friendly materials that possess the ability to degrade naturally while retaining their washing capabilities. For this purpose, the beads from sodium alginate, gellan gum, and a mixture of these natural polymers containing surfactant were produced using the ionotropic gelation method. Stability studies of the beads by observing their appearance and diameter were performed after incubation in solutions of different pH values. The images showed that macroparticles were reduced in size in an acidic medium and swelled in solution of pH-neutral phosphate-buffered saline. Moreover, all the beads first swelled and then degraded in alkaline conditions. The beads based on gellan gum and combining both polymers were the least sensitive to pH changes. The compression tests revealed that the stiffness of all macroparticles decreased with the increasing pH of the solutions in which they were immersed. The studied beads were more rigid in an acidic solution than in alkaline conditions. The biodegradation of macroparticles was assessed using a respirometric method in soil and seawater. It is important to note that the macroparticles degraded more rapidly in soil than in seawater.

Adsorption of highly toxic chlorophenylacetonitriles on typical microplastics in aqueous solutions: Kinetics, isotherm, impact factors and mechanism

Microplastics (MPs) widely exist in all kinds of water bodies. The physical and chemical properties of MPs make them easy to become the carrier of pollutants, but the interaction between disinfection by-products (DBPs) and MPs has not been studied yet. In this study, the occurrence of emerging high-toxic chlorophenylacetonitriles (CPANs) in wastewater treatment plant (WWTP) effluents was determined. CPANs ubiquitously existed in WWTP effluents, and the concentration ranged from 88 ± 5 ng/L to 219 ± 16 ng/L. The typical MPs (i.e., polyethylene (PE), polyethylene terephthalate (PET), and polystyrene (PS)) were selected to study their adsorption of CPANs. Adsorption kinetics and isotherm analysis were carried out. The maximum Langmuir adsorption capacities were 8.602 ± 0.849 to 9.833 ± 0.946 μg/g for PE, 13.340 ± 1.055 to 29.405 ± 5.233 μg/g for PET, and 20.537 ± 1.649 to 43.597 ± 1.871 for PS. Dichloro-CPANs had higher adsorption capacity than monochloro-CPANs. After that, the specific surface area, contact angle, FTIR spectrum, crystallinity, and glass transition temperature (Tg) of MPs were measured. Based on the analysis of the properties of both MPs and CPANs, the mechanism of adsorption was studied. The adsorption of CPANs on PE was mainly affected by pore-filling and van der Waals force. In addition to these two factors, the adsorption of PET was also affected by hydrophobic interaction. Due to the substituents on the benzene ring, there was π-π interaction between PS and CPANs, which might be the reason why PS had the highest adsorption capacity for CPANs. Finally, the effects of pH and dissolved organic matter were studied, and their effects were relatively limited. The results indicated that MPs may adsorb CPANs in actual WWTP effluents, and special attention should be paid to the possible impacts on the aquatic environment caused by the transfer of CPANs on MPs.

Alginate-Based Materials Loaded with Nanoparticles in Wound Healing

Alginate is a naturally derived polysaccharide widely applied in drug delivery, as well as regenerative medicine, tissue engineering and wound care. Due to its excellent biocompatibility, low toxicity, and the ability to absorb a high amount of exudate, it is widely used in modern wound dressings. Numerous studies indicate that alginate applied in wound care can be enhanced with the incorporation of nanoparticles, revealing additional properties beneficial in the healing process. Among the most extensively explored materials, composite dressings with alginate loaded with antimicrobial inorganic nanoparticles can be mentioned. However, other types of nanoparticles with antibiotics, growth factors, and other active ingredients are also investigated. This review article focuses on the most recent findings regarding novel alginate-based materials loaded with nanoparticles and their applicability as wound dressings, with special attention paid to the materials of potential use in the treatment of chronic wounds.

Current research trends on cosmetic microplastic pollution and its impacts on the ecosystem: A review

Since the advent of microplastics, it has become a vital component, directly or indirectly, in our daily lives. With advancements in their use, microplastics have become an integral part of personal care, cosmetics, and cleaning products (PCCPs) and emerged as a domestic source of environmental pollution. Over the years, researchers have ascertained the harmful effects of microplastics on the environment. In this context, the assessment and monitoring of microplastics in PCCPs require considerable attention. In addition, it raises concern regarding the need to develop innovative, sustainable, and environmentally safe technologies to combat microplastic pollution. Therefore, this review is an endeavor to uncover the fate, route and degradation mechanism of cosmetic microplastics. In addition, the major technological advancement in cosmetic microplastic removal and the steps directed toward mitigating cosmetic microplastic pollution are also discussed.

Ex vivo UV-vis and FTIR photoacoustic spectroscopy of natural nanoemulsions from cellulose nanocrystals and saponins topically applied into the skin: Diffusion rates and physicochemical evaluation

Nanoemulsions are increasingly gaining importance in the development of topically applied medicine and cosmetic products because their small droplets favor the penetration rates of active compounds into the body. In this scenario, the measurements of their diffusion rates as well as eventual physicochemical changes in the target tissues are of utmost importance. It is also recognized that the use of natural surfactants can avoid allergic reactions as frequently observed for synthetic products. The natural saponins extracted from Sapindus Saponaria have the property of forming foam and are exploited as biocompatible and biodegradable, while cellulose nanocrystals are known to increase the stability of a formulation avoiding the coalescence of drops at the interface. Therefore, nanoemulsions combining natural saponins and cellulose nanocrystals are promising systems that may facilitate greater diffusion rates of molecules into the skin, being candidates to substitute synthetic formulations. This study applied the Photoacoustic Spectroscopy technique to measure the diffusion rates and the physicochemical properties of nanoemulsified formulations containing saponins and cellulose nanocrystals topically applied to the skin. The ex vivo study combined the first-time photoacoustic measurements performed in both ultraviolet-visible and mid-infrared spectral regions. The toxicity of these formulations in L929 cells was also evaluated. The results showed that the formulations were able to propagate throughout the skin to a depth of approximately 756 μm, reaching the dermal side. The non-observation of absorbing band shifting or new bands in the FTIR spectra suggests that there were no structural changes in the skin as well as in the formulations after the nanoemulsions administration. The cytotoxicity results showed that the increase of cellulose nanocrystals concentration decreased cellular toxicity. In conclusion, the results demonstrated the advantage of combining photoacoustic methods in the ultraviolet-visible and mid-infrared spectral regions to analyze drug diffusion and interaction with the skin tissues. Both methods complement each other, allowing the confirmation of the nanoemulsion diffusion through the skin and also suggesting there were no detectable physicochemical changes in the tissues. Formulations stabilized with saponins and cellulose nanocrystals showed great potential for the development of topically administered cosmetics and drugs.

Salicylic Acid Co-Precipitation with Alginate via Supercritical Atomization for Cosmetic Applications

Alginate-based microparticles were produced via supercritical assisted atomization (SAA) with the aim of obtaining a biocompatible and low-cost carrier for the delivery of active compounds in cosmetic applications. Salicylic acid was selected as an active model compound, and it was co-precipitated with alginate via SAA, operating at 82 bar and 80 °C. In particular, the drug-to-polymer weight ratio was fixed at 1/4, whereas polymer concentration was varied from 5 to 20 mg/mL in the starting aqueous solution. Operating in this way, alginate-salicylic acid microparticles were characterized by a mean diameter of 0.72 ± 0.25 µm, and the active compound became amorphous after processing. A salicylic acid encapsulation efficiency close to 100% was reached, and the drug release time from the biopolymeric microparticles was prolonged up to nine times with respect to untreated salicylic acid powder.

Recent developments in biorefining of macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications - A circular economy approach

The macroalgal industry is expanding, and the quest for novel ingredients to improve and develop innovative products is crucial. Consumers are increasingly looking for natural-derived ingredients in cosmetic products that have been proven to be effective and safe. Macroalgae-derived compounds have growing popularity in skincare products as they are natural, abundant, biocompatible, and renewable. Due to their high biomass yields, rapid growth rates, and cultivation process, they are gaining widespread recognition as potentially sustainable resources better suited for biorefinery processes. This review demonstrates macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications in moisturizers, anti-aging, skin whitening, hair, and oral care products. These chemicals can be obtained in combination with energy products to increase the value of macroalgae from an industrial perspective with a zero-waste approach by linking multiple refineries. The key challenges, bottlenecks, and future perspectives in the operation and outlook of macroalgal biorefineries were also discussed.

Recent Progress in Microalgal Squalene Production and Its Cosmetic Application

Squalene, [oxidized form squalane] is a terpenoid with biological activity that produced by animals and plants. In the human body, a significant excretion named as sebum includes squalene in 12 percent. This bioactive compound shows anti-inflammatory, detoxifying, moisturizing and antioxidant effects on the human body. In addition to having these properties, it is known that squalene production decreases as less sebum is produced with age. Because of that, the need for supplementation of squalene through products has arisen. As a result, squalene production has been drawn attention due to its many application possibilities by cosmetic, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical fields. At this point, approximately 3,000 of sharks, the major and the most popular source of squalene must be killed to obtain 1 ton of squalene. These animals are on the verge of extinction. This situation has caused to focus on finding microalgae strains, which are sustainable producers of squalene as alternative to sharks. This review paper summarizes the recent progresses in the topic of squalene. For this purpose, it contains information on squalene producers, microalgal squalene production and cosmetic evaluation of squalene.

Polyhedral Particles with Controlled Concavity by Indentation Templating

Current methods for fabricating microparticles offer limited control over size and shape. Here, we demonstrate a droplet microfluidic method to form polyhedral microparticles with controlled concavity. By manipulating Laplace pressure, buoyancy, and particle rheology, we generate microparticles with diverse shapes and curvatures. Additionally, we demonstrate the particles provide increased capture efficiency when used for particle-templated emulsification. Our approach enables microparticles with enhanced chemical and biological functionality.

Backscattering-Based Discrimination of Microparticles Using an Optofluidic Multiangle Scattering Chip

In this research, we designed and fabricated an optofluidic chip for the detection and differentiation of single particles via the combination of backscattered (BSC) and forward-scattered (FSC) or side-scattered (SSC) light intensity. The high sensitivity of BSC light to the refractive index of the particles enabled an effective approach for the differentiation of individual particles based on the type of material. By recording BSC as well as FSC and SSC light intensities from single particles, transiting through the illumination zone in a microfluidic channel, the size and type of material could be detected simultaneously. The analysis of model samples of polystyrene (PS), as a primary microplastic particle, and silica microspheres showed substantially higher BSC signal values of PS because of a larger refractive index compared to the silica. The scatter plots correlating contributions of BSC (FSC-BSC and SSC-BSC) allowed a clear differentiation of PS and silica particles. To demonstrate the great potential of this methodology, two "real-life" samples containing different types of particles were tested as application examples. Commercial toothpaste and peeling gel products, as primary sources of microplastics into effluents, were analyzed via the optofluidic chip and compared to results from scanning electron microscopy. The scattering analysis of the complex samples enabled the detection and simultaneous differentiation of particles such as microplastics according to their differences in the refractive index via distinctive areas of high and low BSC signal values. Hence, the contribution of BSC light measurements in multiangle scattering of single particles realized in an optofluidic chip opens the way for the discrimination of single particles in a liquid medium in manifold fields of application ranging from environmental monitoring to cosmetics.

Algal Polysaccharides-Based Hydrogels: Extraction, Synthesis, Characterization, and Applications

Hydrogels are three-dimensional crosslinked hydrophilic polymer networks with great potential in drug delivery, tissue engineering, wound dressing, agrochemicals application, food packaging, and cosmetics. However, conventional synthetic polymer hydrogels may be hazardous and have poor biocompatibility and biodegradability. Algal polysaccharides are abundant natural products with biocompatible and biodegradable properties. Polysaccharides and their derivatives also possess unique features such as physicochemical properties, hydrophilicity, mechanical strength, and tunable functionality. As such, algal polysaccharides have been widely exploited as building blocks in the fabrication of polysaccharide-based hydrogels through physical and/or chemical crosslinking. In this review, we discuss the extraction and characterization of polysaccharides derived from algae. This review focuses on recent advances in synthesis and applications of algal polysaccharides-based hydrogels. Additionally, we discuss the techno-economic analyses of chitosan and acrylic acid-based hydrogels, drawing attention to the importance of such analyses for hydrogels. Finally, the future prospects of algal polysaccharides-based hydrogels are outlined.

Microplastic consumption induces inflammatory signatures in the colon and prolongs a viral arthritis

Global microplastic (MP) contamination and the effects on the environment are well described. However, the potential for MP consumption to affect human health remains controversial. Mice consuming ≈80 μg/kg/day of 1 μm polystyrene MPs via their drinking water showed no weight loss, nor were MPs detected in internal organs. The microbiome was also not significantly changed. MP consumption did lead to small transcriptional changes in the colon suggesting plasma membrane perturbations and mild inflammation. Mice were challenged with the arthritogenic chikungunya virus, with MP consumption leading to a significantly prolonged arthritic foot swelling that was associated with elevated Th1, NK cell and neutrophil signatures. Immunohistochemistry also showed a significant increase in the ratio of neutrophils to monocyte/macrophages. The picture that emerges is reminiscent of enteropathic arthritis, whereby perturbations in the colon are thought to activate innate lymphoid cells that can inter alia migrate to joint tissues to promote inflammation.

Electrostatic loading and photoredox-based release of molecular cargo from oligoviologen-crosslinked microparticles

Although on-demand cargo release has been demonstrated in a wide range of microparticle platforms, many existing methods lack specific loading interactions and/or undergo permanent damage to the microparticle to release...

Oral Bioavailability Enhancement of Melanin Concentrating Hormone, Development and In Vitro Pharmaceutical Assessment of Novel Delivery Systems

The rapid progress in biotechnology over the past few decades has accelerated the large-scale production of therapeutic peptides and proteins, making them available in medical practice. However, injections are the most common method of administration; these procedures might lead to inconvenience. Non-invasive medications, such as oral administration of bio-compounds, can reduce or eliminate pain and increase safety. The aim of this project was to develop and characterize novel melanin concentrating hormone (MCH) formulations for oral administration. As a drug delivery system, penetration enhancer combined alginate beads were formulated and characterized. The combination of alginate carriers with amphiphilic surfactants has not been described yet. Due to biosafety having high priority in the case of novel pharmaceutical formulations, the biocompatibility of selected auxiliary materials and their combinations was evaluated using different in vitro methods. Excipients were selected according to the performed toxicity measurements. Besides the cell viability tests, physical properties and complex bioavailability assessments were performed as well. Our results suggest that alginate beads are able to protect melanin concentrating hormones. It has been also demonstrated that penetration enhancer combined alginate beads might play a key role in bioavailability improvement. These formulations were found to be promising tools for oral peptide delivery. Applied excipients and the performed delivery systems are safe and highly tolerable; thus, they can improve patients’ experience and promote adherence.

Freeze-Dried Matrices Composed of Degradable Polymers with Surfactant-Loaded Microparticles Based on Pectin and Sodium Alginate

Gelatin/polyvinylpyrrolidone/hydroxyethyl cellulose/glycerol porous matrices with microspheres made of sodium alginate or pectin and sodium alginate were produced. A surfactant was loaded into these microparticles. The microspheres were characterized using optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy SEM, and laser diffraction particle size analyzer. For the matrices, the density, porosity, swelling capacity, dissolution in phosphate saline buffer were determined and SEM, mechanical, and thermogravimetric studies were applied. The results showed that the size of the two-component microspheres was slightly larger than that of single-ingredient microparticles. The images confirmed the spherical shape of the microparticles. The prepared matrices had high water uptake ability and porosity due to the presence of hydrophilic polymers. The presence of microparticles in the matrices caused a decrease in these parameters. Degradation of the composites with the microspheres was significantly faster than the matrix without them. The addition of microparticles increased the stiffness and toughness of the prepared materials. The efficiency of the thermal decomposition main stage was reduced in the samples with microspheres, whereas a char residue increased in these composites.

The Preparation and Characterization of Chitosan-Based Hydrogels Cross-Linked by Glyoxal

In this study, hydrogels based on chitosan cross-linked by glyoxal have been investigated for potential medical applications. Hydrogels were loaded with tannic acid at different concentrations. The thermal stability and the polyphenol-releasing rate were determined. For a preliminary assessment of the clinical usefulness of the hydrogels, they were examined for blood compatibility and in the culture of human dental pulp cells (hDPC). The results showed that after immersion in a polyphenol solution, chitosan/glyoxal hydrogels remain nonhemolytic for erythrocytes, and we also did not observe the cytotoxic effect of hydrogels immersed in tannic acid (TA) solutions with different concentration. Tannic acid was successfully released from hydrogels, and its addition improved material thermal stability. Thus, the current findings open the possibility to consider such hydrogels in clinics.

Development of Chitosan Microspheres through a Green Dual Crosslinking Strategy Based on Tripolyphosphate and Vanillin

Microencapsulation procedures have recently focused attention on designing novel microspheres via green synthesis strategies. The use of chitosan (CS) as an encapsulating material has increased interest due to its unique bioactive properties and the various crosslinking possibilities offered by their functional groups. The consolidation of the microspheres by physical crosslinking using sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP) combined with chemical crosslinking using vanillin (VA) open new opportunities in the framework of green dual crosslinking strategies. The developed strategy, a straightforward technique based on an aqueous medium avoiding complex separation/washing steps, offers advantages over the processes based on VA, mostly using water-in-oil emulsion approaches. Thus, in this work, the combination of TPP crosslinking (3, 5, and 10 wt.%) via spray-coagulation technique with two VA crosslinking methods (in situ and post-treatment using 1 wt.% VA) were employed in the preparation of microspheres. The microspheres were characterized concerning morphology, particle size, physicochemical properties, thermal stability, and swelling behavior. Results revealed that the combination of 5 wt.% TPP with in situ VA crosslinking led to microspheres with promising properties, being an attractive alternative for natural bioactives encapsulation due to the green connotations associated with the process.

Lyophilized Emulsions in the Form of 3D Porous Matrices as a Novel Material for Topical Application

Researchers are constantly searching for innovations that can be applied to the cosmetic industry. Production of porous materials stored in a lyophilized form and swollen directly before use may be beneficial considering their facilitated packaging, transport and storage. In this study, we propose porous materials based on sodium alginate, gelatin, glycerol and lipids (cottonseed oil and beeswax) obtained by freeze-drying and cross-linking. Material composition with the most promising properties was modified by the addition of PLA microparticles with Calendula officinalis flower extract. The structure and properties of obtained porous materials were analyzed. ATR-FTIR, mechanical properties, residual moisture content, porosity and density were assessed, as well as swelling properties and degradation after their cross-linking. The loading capacity and in vitro release of Calendula officinalis flower extract were performed for samples with incorporated PLA microparticles containing plant extract. The modification of the composition and fabrication method of materials significantly influenced their physicochemical properties. The selected plant extract was successfully incorporated into polymeric microparticles that were subsequently added into developed materials. Prepared materials may be considered during designing new cosmetic formulations.

Adsorption mechanism of cadmium on microplastics and their desorption behavior in sediment and gut environments: The roles of water pH, lead ions, natural organic matter and phenanthrene

Microplastics (MPs) in aquatic systems can act as a vector for various toxic contaminants, such as metal ions. Although some studies have investigated the adsorption characteristics of metal ions on MPs, the desorption behaviors of metal ions from MPs in different environments are largely unknown. Here, the adsorption of cadmium (Cd(II)) onto five different types of MPs were compared to examine the relationship between the surface characteristics and the adsorption properties of MPs. Our results showed that polyamide had the highest Cd(II) adsorption capability with a value of 1.70 ± 0.04 mg/g, followed by polyvinyl chloride (1.04 ± 0.03 mg/g), polystyrene (0.76 ± 0.02 mg/g), acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (0.65 ± 0.02 mg/g) and polyethylene terephthalate (0.25 ± 0.01 mg/g). The specific surface area and total pore volume were closely correlated with the adsorption capacity of the MPs, and the π-π interaction, electrostatic interaction and oxygen-containing functional groups played crucial roles in the adsorption of Cd(II) onto the MPs. The sorption capabilities of Cd(II) onto the MPs first increased and then decreased with increasing solution pH from 2.0 to 9.0. In addition, the adsorption capacities were suppressed with the presence of lead ions (20-80 mg/L), while the coexistence of phenanthrene had a minor impact. Interestingly, the presence of humic acid promoted the desorption of Cd(II) from the MPs both in the synthetic earthworm gut and in the sediment system. A higher desorption rate was observed in the simulated gut environment, suggesting that metal-contaminated MPs would pose higher ecological risks to macroinvertebrates. Overall, our findings provide a better understanding of the sorption mechanism of Cd(II) onto MPs and the desorption behavior under different environmental conditions in aquatic ecosystems.

A novel glucomannan incorporated functionalized carbon nanotube films: Synthesis, characterization and antimicrobial activity

A novel nanocomposite film was developed by incorporating functionalized carbon nanotube (PCNT) and gallic acid (GA) into carboxymethyl konjac glucomannan (CKGM) and gelatin (GL) matrix. The influences of the PCNT content on the structural, morphological, mechanical, barrier, thermal and antimicrobial properties of CKGM/GL nanocomposite film were discussed. The structure of PCNT@CKGM/GL nanocomposite film was characterized by FT-IR, SEM, and AFM. The crystal structure and thermal ability of the film were generated by XRD and TGA-DTG. The analyses of FT-IR revealed that the amide linkage and strong hydrogen bonding were formed between CKGM, GL, and PCNT. Moreover, the characterization of mechanical properties, moisture barrier, and antimicrobial activities indicated the benefits of adding PCNT into CKGM/GL films. The results suggested that the PCNT@CKGM/GL films exhibited antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. Therefore, such antimicrobial nanocomposite films have the potential of maintaining the quality and prolong the shelf life of food products.

Aliphatic Polyester-Based Biodegradable Microbeads for Sustainable Cosmetics

Marine pollution stemming from plastic microbeads (MBs) in personal care products has been substantially increased because of their nonbiodegradability and high adsorption capacity against persistent organic pollutants (POPs) in seawater. Moreover, the manufacturing process of MBs has been based on wet processes, such as emulsification, microfluidics, and precipitation. Therefore, a green process for obtaining biodegradable MBs is urgently necessary. Aliphatic polyesters, such as poly(lactic acid) (PLA, radiation-degradable) and poly(ε-caprolactone) (PCL, radiation-cross-linkable), have biodegradability and melt processability. The eco-friendly melt electrospraying process is a simple and cost-effective method for the preparation of MBs without the need for organic reagents. In this study, the PLA and PCL MBs were obtained by adjusting the main processing parameters during the melt electrospraying process. The weight losses of PLA and PCL MBs in aqueous environments occurred faster than those of positive controls, and the thermal transition parameters were decreased with the hydrolytic degradation of MBs. In the POP adsorption test, the biodegradable MBs showed poor adsorption because of their low specific surface area. The results of the cleansing efficiency test indicated that biodegradable MBs have great potential as more sustainable cosmetics to replace nondegradable MBs.

Surfactant-free and rinsing-resistant biodegradable nanoparticles with high adsorption on natural fibers for the long-lasting release of fragrances

Synthetic polymers are attracting growing attention as additives for laundry and personal care products. In particular, the high volatility of many common fragrances requires the development of polymeric particles for their encapsulation and controlled release. Unfortunately, the vast majority of these carriers is made from polymers that are not biodegradable. This poses severe concerns about the accumulation of nano- and microplastics. Hence, such particles are expected to be banned from the market in the coming years. Therefore, biodegradable particles enabling a long-lasting release of the fragrances are urgently needed. In this work, we produced biodegradable nanoparticles (NPs) that are structurally composed of lactones, i.e. well known perfumes that occur naturally and that are already considered safe by regulatory agencies. We polymerized these lactones via ring opening polymerization (ROP) using an ionizable tertiary amine as initiator to produce in a single step amphiphilic oligoesters able to directly self-assemble into NPs once nanoprecipitated in water. In this way, we can produce biodegradable NPs with a perfume loading up to 85 % w/w without the need for additional surfactants. Subsequently we show that the ionizable group is able to confer a positive charge to our nanoparticles and, in turn, a high adsorption capacity on natural fibers (i.e. hairs and cotton fabric). Finally, we demonstrate the nanoparticle resistance to rinsing and their ability to confer a long-lasting fragrance perception to treated hair swatches for at least 3 weeks.

Microwave Hydrodiffusion and Gravity (MHG) Extraction from Different Raw Materials with Cosmetic Applications

Microwave hydrodiffusion and gravity (MHG) and ethanolic solid-liquid extraction were compared using selected plant sources. Their bioactive profile, color features, and proximate chemical characterization were determined. MHG extracts, commercial antioxidants, and three distinct types of thermal spring water were used in a sunscreen cream formulation. Their bioactive capacity, chemical and rheological properties were evaluated. MHG Cytisus scoparius flower extract provided the highest bioactive properties. Pleurotus ostreatus MHG liquor exhibited the highest total solid extraction yield. The Brassica rapa MHG sample stood out for its total protein content and its monosaccharide and oligosaccharide concentration. Quercus robur acorns divided into quarters supplied MHG extract with the lowest energy requirements, highest DPPH inhibition percentage, total lipid content and the highest enzyme inhibition. The chemical and bioactive capacities stability of the sunscreen creams elaborated with the selected MHG extracts and the thermal spring waters showed a similar behavior than the samples containing commercial antioxidants.