Feeding the skin: A new trend in food and cosmetics convergence

Marine cosmetics and the blue bioeconomy: From sourcing to success stories

As the global population continues to grow, so does the demand for longer, healthier lives and environmentally responsible choices. Consumers are increasingly drawn to naturally sourced products with proven health and wellbeing benefits. The marine environment presents a promising yet underexplored resource for the cosmetics industry, offering bioactive compounds with the potential for safe and biocompatible ingredients. This manuscript provides a comprehensive overview of the potential of marine organisms for cosmetics production, highlighting marine-derived compounds and their applications in skin/hair/oral-care products, cosmeceuticals and more. It also lays down critical safety considerations and addresses the methodologies for sourcing marine compounds, including harvesting, the biorefinery concept, use of systems biology for enhanced product development, and the relevant regulatory landscape. The review is enriched by three case studies: design of macroalgal skincare products in Iceland, establishment of a microalgal cosmetics spin-off in Italy, and the utilization of marine proteins for cosmeceutical applications.

Determination of the Major Bioactive Component of Silybum marianum in Nutricosmetics by a HPLC Method With Amperometric Detection and UAE Pretreatment

INTRODUCTION

Nutricosmetics derived from Silybum marianum, known for their anti-inflammatory and hepatoprotective properties, necessitate accurate quantification of silybin, a key bioactive component.

OBJECTIVES

This study aims to develop a novel high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method with amperometric detection (HPLC-ECD) for the precise determination of silybin. An ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) procedure is also established for solid sample preparation prior to chromatographic analysis.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Chromatographic separation of silybin was performed on a C18 column and using methanol-0.035 M potassium phosphate (pH 4.0) at 1.0 mL min-1 flow rate as mobile phase in gradient mode. The electrochemical detection (ECD) of silybin was carried out on a glassy carbon electrode (GCE) at +1.10 V versus Ag/AgCl. The UAE procedure for silybin extraction from solid samples was performed by 15 min sonication in an ultrasonic bath (80 kHz and 100% power) at room temperature.

RESULTS

Under the optimal chromatographic conditions, silybin diastereoisomers (silybin A and silybin B) can be separated from other S. marianum flavonolignans in less than 20 min, with a detection limit (LOD) of 0.060 mg L-1 and a reproducibility (RSD) of 5%. This method was successfully applied to analyze silymarin-containing products with recoveries close to 100%.

CONCLUSIONS

This work presents the first HPLC method for silybin determination using an amperometric detector with a GCE. The LOD is competitive in comparison with previously published HPLC-DAD methods. This HPLC-ECD method allows silybin diastereoisomers identification without interferences of other flavonolignans present in silymarin extracts.

Recombinant Fibrous Protein Gels as Rheological Modifiers in Skin Ointments

Rheological modifiers are an important component in the development of skin cream (SC) chassis for personal skin care products (PSCPs). The viscous behavior of a PSCP is critical to its effectiveness where its uniformity and material strength impact its processing, storage, and delivery of active ingredients. Due to the mildly acidic environment of the skin, PSCPs require a SC that will assist in maintaining their material strength at low pHs. We have investigated a coiled-coil protein hydrogel system for the ability to possess pH-responsiveness, where physical cross-linking and material strength is controlled by pH relative to the isoelectric point (pI) of the protein. We recently designed a coiled-coil protein hydrogel variant, Q5, which possesses a relatively low pI that we hypothesized to have improved supramolecular assembly into a hydrogel at acidic conditions. We demonstrate that Q5 can retain a partial solution-to-gel transition at pH 6.0 and acts as a soft hydrogel by rheology. We further tested Q5 to act as a rheological modifier in a standard SC at pH 6.0 and pH 8.0 to test conditions mediated by pH changes in the skin environment. Q5 reveals the ability to uniquely increase material strength at low pH in comparison to a standard rheological modifier like hydroxyethyl cellulose (HEC), suggesting modular protein-based coiled-coil rheological modifiers can be used in PSCPs.

Extracts from Wheat, Maize, and Sunflower Waste as Natural Raw Materials for Cosmetics: Value-Added Products Reaching Sustainability Goals

Agricultural waste is underutilized, and sometimes burning them has a negative impact on the environment and human health. This research investigates the untapped potential of extracts from maize, wheat and sunflower waste as natural materials for cutaneous, specifically, cosmetic application. The possibility of incorporating lipid and ethanol extracts from wheat, maize, and sunflower into creams was investigated together with their potential contribution to the structural and functional properties of the topical formulations. Results of the physicochemical characterization show that investigated extracts can be successfully incorporated into creams with satisfactory stability. All extracts showed a desirable safety profile and good antimicrobial activity against various microorganisms. Lipid extracts have proven to be promising structural ingredients of the oil phase, contributing to the spreadability, occlusivity, and emollient effect. Ethanol extracts influenced washability and stickiness of the formulation and could be considered as prospective ingredients in self-preserving formulations. The extracts affected the sensory properties of the creams, mainly the smell and color. These results suggest that the extracts from wheat, maize, and sunflower waste could be used as multifunctional natural ingredients for cosmetic formulations which can replace less sustainable raw materials. This also represents a valorization of waste and is in line with broader sustainability goals.

Predisposing factors of using cosmetics in Iranian female students: application of prototype willingness model

Background and aim

The use of cosmetics among Iranian teenagers and youths has increased more than ever before. This study investigated the predisposing factors of cosmetic use in female students of Ardabil University of Medical Sciences by using the prototype willingness model (PWM).

Methods

This cross-sectional study was conducted with 384 students, selected based on multistage sampling. Data were collected using a two-part questionnaire that included demographic variables and PWM questions. Then multiple regression analysis was used in SPSS (version 20).

Results

There was a significant difference in the frequency of daily cosmetic use based on the education levels (F = 3.845, p-value = 0.034). The average daily use of cosmetics was higher in students whose use of cosmetics was high in their family (p = 0.024) and friends (p-value = 0.023). Prototypes were the strongest predictor of using cosmetics (OR = 1.317, p-value <0.001), followed by attitude (OR = 1.241, p-value <0.001).

Conclusion

Prototypes (social imagination) and attitudes were the main predictors of using cosmetics among female students. To be effective in targeting cosmetic use, interventions must target both social and individual paths.

Enzyme-assisted ultrasonic extraction of total flavonoids and extraction polysaccharides in residue from Abelmoschus manihot (L)

Abelmoschus manihot (L) is a traditional chinese herb and the present study focused on its comprehensive development and utilization. Enzyme-assisted ultrasonic extraction (EUAE) was investigated for the extraction and qualitative and quantitative analysis of flavonoids from Abelmoschus manihot (L) using a combination of ultra-performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array (UPLC-PDA), polysaccharides was extracted from residues and compared with directly extracted from raw materials. The optimal yield of 3.46±0.012 % (w/w) was obtained when the weight ratio of cellulase to pectinase was 1:1, the enzyme concentration was 3 %, the pH was 6.0, the solvent was a mixture of 70 % ethanol (v/v) and 0.1 mol/L NaH2PO4 buffer solution, the ultrasonic power was 500 W, the extraction time was 40 min, and the temperature of the extraction was 50 °C. The individual concentrations of interested flavonoids (rutin, neochlorogenic acid, nochlorogenic acid, lsoquercitrin, quercitrin, gossypin, quercetin) were effectively increased with the using of EUAE, compared with ultrasonic extraction (UE) method. Polysaccharides were extracted from each residue, respectively, the Polysaccharides yield in residue from EUAE was higher than that from UE, and closed to the yield from direct extraction in raw materials. The above results shown that the experimental process had the potential to be environmentall, friendly, straightforward and efficient.

Dietary Isoeugenol Supplementation Attenuates Chronic UVB-Induced Skin Photoaging and Modulates Gut Microbiota in Mice

Photoaging, the primary cause of skin aging damage, results from chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure, leading to dryness and wrinkle formation. Nutritional intervention has emerged as a practical approach for preventing and addressing the effect of skin photoaging. The primary aromatic compound isolated from clove oil, isoeugenol (IE), has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant qualities that work to effectively restrict skin cancer cell proliferation. This investigation delved into the advantages of IE in alleviating skin photoaging using UVB-irradiated skin fibroblasts and female SKH-1 hairless mouse models. IE alleviated UVB-induced photodamage in Hs68 dermal fibroblasts by inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase secretion and promoting extracellular matrix synthesis. In photoaged mice, dietary IE reduced wrinkles, relieved skin dryness, inhibited epidermal thickening, and prevented collagen loss. Additionally, the intestinal dysbiosis caused by prolonged UVB exposure was reduced with an IE intervention. The results of Spearman's analysis showed a strong correlation between skin photoaging and gut microbiota. Given the almost unavoidable UVB exposure in contemporary living, this research demonstrated the efficacy of dietary IE in reversing skin photoaging, presenting a promising approach to tackle concerns related to extrinsic skin aging.

Revitalizing Photoaging Skin through Eugenol in UVB-Exposed Hairless Mice: Mechanistic Insights from Integrated Multi-Omics

Chronic ultraviolet (UV) exposure causes photoaging, which is primarily responsible for skin damage. Nutritional intervention is a viable strategy for preventing and treating skin photoaging. Eugenol (EU) presents anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, promotes wound healing, and provides contact dermatitis relief. This study explored the ability of EU to mitigate skin photoaging caused by UVB exposure in vitro and in vivo. EU alleviated UVB-induced skin photodamage in skin cells, including oxidative stress damage and extracellular matrix (ECM) decline. Dietary EU alleviated skin photoaging by promoting skin barrier repair, facilitating skin tissue regeneration, and modulating the skin microenvironment in photoaged mice. The transcriptome sequencing results revealed that EU changed the skin gene expression profiles. Subsequent pathway enrichment analyses indicated that EU might reverse the pivotal ECM-receptor interaction and cytokine-cytokine receptor interaction signaling pathways. Furthermore, EU alleviated the intestinal dysbiosis induced by chronic UVB exposure. Spearman analysis results further revealed the close connection between gut microbiota and skin photoaging. Considering the near-inevitable UVB exposure in modern living, the findings showed that the EU effectively reverted skin photoaging, offering a potential strategy for addressing extrinsic skin aging.

Nutritionally Important Pro-Health Active Ingredients and Antioxidant Properties of Fruits and Fruit Juice of Selected Biennial Fruiting Rubus idaeus L. Cultivars

Raspberry fruits are an important source of many biologically active chemical compounds exerting nutritional and pro-health effects. The study presents a comparative analysis of nutritionally important bioactive chemical compounds-polyphenols; flavonoids, including anthocyanins; vitamin C; amino acids; fatty acids; and primary metabolites-contained in the fruits of three biennial fruiting cultivars, R. idaeus 'Glen Ample', 'Laszka', and 'Radziejowa', i.e., common cultivars in Poland and Europe. The antioxidant activity of fresh fruits and juice was determined with five methods. The analyses revealed the strong free radical scavenging potential of the fruits and juice, confirmed by the high concentration of nutrients, e.g., polyphenols, anthocyanins, vitamin C, amino acids, and fatty acids. The antioxidant activity of the juice determined with the ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) and OH radical methods was from 2.5 to 4.0 times higher than that of the fruits. The following orders of total polyphenol contents were established in the analyzed cultivars: 'Glen Ample' < 'Laszka' < 'Radziejowa' in the fruits and 'Glen Ample' < 'Radziejowa' < 'Laszka' in the juice. The highest antioxidant activity was exhibited by the 'Radziejowa' fruits. Given their high content of dietary fiber, the fruits of the analyzed raspberry cultivars can be consumed by dieting subjects. The concentrations of vitamin C (28-34 mg/100 g) and anthocyanins (20-34 mg/100 g) indicate the biological and pharmacological activity of these fruits. The main unsaturated fatty acids in the fruits were gamma-linoleic acid (C18:2n6c) and alpha-linolenic acid (C18:3n3), which neutralize excess free radicals. The amino acids nutritionally essential to humans were dominated by leucine, arginine, and phenylalanine. This is the first comparative analysis of the antioxidant activity of fruits and juice and the contents of selected active compounds in the fruits of biennial fruiting cultivars of R. idaeus, i.e., a highly commercialized crop in Europe.

Biopolymer- and Natural Fiber-Based Biomimetic Tissues to Realize Smart Cosmeceuticals and Nutraceuticals Using an Innovative Approach

More sustainable and smart cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals are necessary due to the ecological transition. In this study, a pullulan-based water solution containing chitin nanofibril-nano-lignin (CN-LG) complexes that encapsulate fish collagen polypeptide, allantoin and nicotinamide was electrospun onto a nonwoven substrate made of bamboo fibers to obtain a smart nanostructured bilayer system for releasing active molecules onto the skin or other body tissues. Infrared spectroscopy was used to characterize the composition of the bilayer system before and after rapid washing of the sample with distilled water and liquids mimicking physiological fluids. The viability of keratinocytes was studied as well as the antioxidant activity, protective activity towards UV light, metalloproteinase release of aged fibroblasts and the inhibitor activity against collagen degradation. Immunomodulatory tests were performed to investigate the anti-inflammatory activity of the bilayer system as well as its indirect antimicrobial activity. The results indicate that the bilayer system can be used in the production of innovative sustainable cosmeceuticals. In general, the adopted strategy can be extended to several smart treatments for fast release that can be commercialized as solid products, thus avoiding the use of preservatives and water.

Enhancing Skin Anti-Aging through Healthy Lifestyle Factors

Lifestyle health has been recognized as an evidence-based innovation that defines how everyday behaviors and routines influence the avoidance and therapy of illness and provides an important adjunctive component to overall health. Specifically, an approach with small changes over time can have a dramatic impact on the health and well-being of individuals not only, in general, but also can be applied to skin health. However, lifestyle health factors to improve skin well-being have not been discussed extensively and/or well promulgated. The narrative for this overview focuses on providing a summary for topic background information, but more importantly, presents four lifestyle factors that can improve dermal health [i.e., factor 1: nutrition—diet; factor 2: rest (sleep); factor 3: movement/physical exercise, and factor 4: social and community associations]. This was accomplished by identifying preceding journal reports/reviews covering especially the last five years (January 2018 to July 2023; 164 out of 205 references cited or 80%) using scientific search databases. The main conclusions of this overview encourage the concept that lifestyle health factors such as nutrition/diet, rest/sleep, movement/physical exercise, and community/social interactions support enhanced skin health and well-being with aging. Plus, social media interventions that aim to promote dietary, sleep and physical activity changes might be an application to improve skin health in the future.

Photoprotective Effects of Processed Ginseng Leaf Administration against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

Although ginseng leaves contain a larger amount of ginsenosides than the roots, studies on the protective effect of oral administration of ginseng leaves against photoaging are lacking. Processed ginseng leaves (PGL) prepared by acid reaction to increase effective ginsenoside content showed higher levels of Rg3 (29.35 mg/g) and Rk1 (35.16 mg/g) than ginseng leaves (Rg3 (2.14 mg/g) and Rk1 (ND)), and ginsenosides Rg3 and Rk1 were evaluated as active ingredients that protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced cell damage by increasing cell proliferation and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and 9 secretion. Herein, the effect of oral PGL administration (50, 100, or 200 mg/kg, daily) against photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice was assessed by measuring wrinkle depth, epidermal thickness, and trans-epidermal water loss for 16 weeks. The PGL treatment group showed reduced skin wrinkles, inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression, and decreased IL-6 and cyclooxygenase-2 levels. These data suggest that oral PGL administration inhibits photoaging by inhibiting the expression of MMPs, which degrade collagen, and inhibiting cytokines, which induce inflammatory responses. These results reveal that ginseng leaves processed by acid reaction may serve as potential functional materials with anti-photoaging activities.

Hyaluronic Acid-Extraction Methods, Sources and Applications

In this review, a compilation of articles in databases on the extraction methods and applications of hyaluronic acid (HA) was carried out. HA is a highly hydrated component of different tissues, including connective, epithelial, and neural. It is an anionic, linear glycosaminoglycan (GAG) primarily found in the native extracellular matrix (ECM) of soft connective tissues. Included in the review were studies on the extraction methods (chemical, enzymatical, combined) of HA, describing advantages and disadvantages as well as news methods of extraction. The applications of HA in food are addressed, including oral supplementation, biomaterials, medical research, and pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry applications. Subsequently, we included a section related to the structure and penetration routes of the skin, with emphasis on the benefits of systems for transdermal drug delivery nanocarriers as promoters of percutaneous absorption. Finally, the future trends on the applications of HA were included. This final section contains the effects before, during, and after the application of HA-based products.

Effects of oral intake fruit or fruit extract on skin aging in healthy adults: a systematic review and Meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials

Background

In recent years, oral various fruits or supplements of fruits natural extracts have been reported to have significant anti-aging effects on the skin (1, 2), However, despite many studies on this topic, there is often no clear evidence to support their efficacy and safety. In this paper, we present a comprehensive review and Meta-analysis of the evidence for the safety and efficacy of oral fruits and fruits extracts in improving skin aging.

Methods

Four databases, Pubmed, Embase, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL), were searched for relevant literature from 2000-01 to 2023-03. Seven randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of fruit intake or fruit extracts associated with anti-skin aging were screened for Meta-analysis.

Results

Compared to placebo, oral intake of fruit or fruit extracts showed significant statistical differences in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), with a significant improvement in skin hydration and a significant decrease in TEWL. No significant statistical difference was observed in minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity (R2), or wrinkle depth, and no evidence of significant improvement in skin condition was observed.

Conclusion

Meta-analysis results suggest that consume administration of fruits or fruit extracts significantly enhances skin hydration and reduces transcutaneous water loss, but there is insufficient evidence to support other outcome recommendations, including minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity(R2), and wrinkle depth.

Systematic Review Registration

PROSPERO (york.ac.uk), identifier CRD42023410382.

Ethanol organosolv lignin as a substitute for commercial antioxidants, focusing on the structural properties and synergistic effect with myricetin

Lignin has potential as a substitute for natural antioxidants in cosmetics and food industries due to its radical scavenging ability and price competitiveness. The antioxidant activity of lignin depends on its structural properties, and they accordingly have synergy with natural antioxidants. Based on the structural characteristics, the antioxidant activity of ethanol organosolv lignin (EOL) and synergy with myricetin were investigated. The phenolic-OH content was a predominant factor in the antioxidant activity of EOL, and EOL-H with a higher phenolic-OH content and lower IC₅₀ value (0.17 mg/mL) covered a wide synergy range of 1:32-2:1 (EOL:myricetin). The synergistic effect was verified by comparing predicted and actual values based on ESR analysis, and the phenolic-OH ratio (>0.4) of myricetin and EOL for the synergy was suggested. In this respect, the results highlight the potential of lignin with high phenolic-OH content as a substitute for commercial antioxidants with superior activity and broad synergy ranges.

Up-Cycling of Olea europaea L. Ancient Cultivars Side Products: Study of a Combined Cosmetic-Food Supplement Treatment Based on Leaves and Olive Mill Wastewater Extracts

In recent years, a reversal of the global economic framework has been taking place: from the linear model, there has been a gradual transition to a circular model where by-products from the agri-food industry are taken and transformed into value products (upcycling) rather than being disposed of. Olive tree pruning represents an important biomass currently used for combustion; however, the leaf part of the olive tree is rich in phenolic substances, including hydroxytyrosol. Mill wastewater is also discarded, but it still contains high amounts of hydroxytyrosol. In this study, cosmetic and food supplement formulations were prepared using biophenols extracted from leaves and wastewater and were tested in a placebo-controlled study on healthy volunteers using a combined cosmetic and food supplement treatment. A significant improvement in skin health indicators (collagen density, elasticity, etc.) and a 17% improvement against Photo-induced Irritative Stimulus was observed.

Interaction between Dietary Fibre and Bioactive Compounds in Plant By-Products: Impact on Bioaccessibility and Bioavailability

In Europe, around 31 million tonnes of food by-products are generated during primary production and trade. The management of these by-products may cause a negative impact, both at the economic and environmental levels, for both industry and society. In this regard, taking into consideration that these by-products retain the dietary fibre compositions and the bioactive compounds of the starting materials, plant food agro-industries have an interest in taking advantage of them, from a nutritional point of view. Therefore, this review evaluates the role of dietary fibre and bioactive compounds in these by-products as well as the potential interactions of both components and their implications for health, since the bioactive compounds associated with fibre may reach the colon, where they can be metabolised into postbiotic compounds, providing important health benefits (prebiotic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.). Consequently, this aspect, on which there are few studies, is very relevant and must be considered in the revaluation of by-products to obtain new ingredients for food processing with improved nutritional and technological properties.

Regulatory Effects of Thai Rice By-Product Extracts from Oryza sativa L. cv. Bue Bang 3 CMU and Bue Bang 4 CMU on Melanin Production, Nitric Oxide Secretion, and Steroid 5α-Reductase Inhibition

Alopecia and gray hair are common hair abnormalities affecting physical appearance and causing psychological problems. Chemical treatments partially restore hair disorders but have distressing side effects. Bioactive plant compounds constitute promising sources of potential medicinal substances instead of chemical agents, producing high side effects. In this study, we focused on the waste of local rice cultivars: Bue Bang 3 CMU (BB3CMU) and Bue Bang 4 CMU (BB4CMU) from the north of Thailand. The rice bran oil (RBO), defatted rice bran extract (DFRB), and rice husk (H) were determined for in vitro hair revitalization in melanin production, nitric oxide (NO) secretion, and steroid 5α-reductase inhibition. The results indicated that BB4CMU-RBO with high contents of iron, zinc, and free fatty acids showed a comparable induction of melanin production on melanocytes (130.18 ± 9.13% of control) to the standard drug theophylline with no significant difference (p > 0.05). This promising melanin induction could be related to activating the NO secretion pathway, with the NO secretion level at 1.43 ± 0.05 µM. In addition, BB4CMU-RBO illustrated a significant inhibitory effect on both steroid 5α-reductase genes (SRD5A) type 1 and type 2, which relates to its primary source of tocopherols. Hence, rice bran oil from the Thai rice variety BB4CMU could be applied as a promising hair revitalizing candidate, from natural resources, to help promote hair growth and re-pigmentation effects.

TPP-chitosomes as potential encapsulation system to protect carotenoid-rich extract obtained from carrot by-product: A comparison with liposomes and chitosomes

The objectives of this study were to extract bioactive compounds from carrot by-products and evaluate their chemical stability after encapsulation in liposomes (L) coated either with chitosan (Ch) or using sodium tripolyphosphate for chitosan complexation (TPP-Ch). The main compounds quantified in this study were carotenoids and total phenolic compounds, which reached encapsulation efficiencies higher than 75%. The TPP-Ch charged with carrot extract showed greater particle size (90.5 nm) and zeta potential (+22 mV) than vesicles without coating (68.0 nm and -2 mV, respectively), indicating that liposomes were successfully coated with chitosan. Regarding results of the carotenoid's encapsulated stability, TPP-Ch particles were more efficient preventing their degradation in all the experimental conditions studied (40 and 70 °C). It is significant that loaded TPP-Ch particles demonstrated similar results for the stability of carotenoid-rich extracts in ethanol, which would therefore be suitable for application in food industry or any aqueous matrices.

Dermocosmetic evaluation of a nutricosmetic formulation based on Curcuma

Endogenous and exogenous factors can alter the skin layer and appearance, determining skin aging. The extracts and isolated molecules from food matrixes can be used to formulate "healthy" antiaging cosmetics. Two different cosmetic approaches can be used to achieve the antiaging effect. It is possible to use topical products based on food extract (cosmeceutical approach) or take a food supplement and apply a topical cosmetic product based on food extract on the surface to be treated (nutricosmetic approach). This work evaluated in vivo the antiaging potential of a nutricosmetic formulation (cream + food supplement) and a cosmeceutical cream based on Curcuma. The choice of the commercial Curcuma extract to be used for experimental purposes was based on the curcuminoid content determined by an HPLC test. Curcuminoids are the bioactive compounds responsible for Curcuma's antioxidant and antiinflammatory properties. Their levels in Curcuma extracts vary according to the storage condition, variety, and pedoclimatic cultivation conditions. The Tewameter® TM300 was used to evaluate the Trans Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the Corneometer® CM 825 to determine the moisturizing effect, the Cutometer® to estimate the skin firmness and elasticity, the Dermascan to assess the collagen index, and the Visioface® 1000D to evaluate the wrinkles. The nutricosmetic product showed potential as moisturizing, anti-age, and anti-wrinkle action better than the cosmeceutical product alone.

Characterization of Bioactive Compounds Having Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Liliaceae Family Flower Petal Extracts

Beneficial natural products utilized in cosmetics formulation and pharmaceutical applications are of enormous interest. Lily (Lilium) serves as an essential edible and medicinal plant species with wide classification. Here, we have performed the screening of various extracts that were prepared from flower petals grown from the bulbs of eight Lilium varieties, with a viewpoint to their applicability as a viable source of natural anti-inflammatory and antioxidants agent. Interestingly, our findings indicated that all ethanol and water extracts exhibited a substantially differential spectrum of antioxidant as well as anti-inflammatory properties. Specifically, Serrano showed a close similarity among ethanol and water extracts among all tested lily petal extracts. Therefore, to obtain a detailed analysis of chemical compounds, liquid chromatography-mass spectroscopy was performed in ethanolic and water extracts of Serrano petals. Together, our preliminary results indicated that lily petals extracts used in this study could serve as a basis to develop a potential new whitening agent with powerful antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties for medicinal, functional food, and cosmetic applications.

Red Raspberry Seed Oil Low Energy Nanoemulsions: Influence of Surfactants, Antioxidants, and Temperature on Oxidative Stability

The aim of this study was to assess and improve the oxidative stability of red raspberry seed oil−RO, a potential topical ingredient derived from food industry by-products, on its own and when incorporated in low energy nanoemulsion (NE). The RO’s oxidative stability was assessed at 5, 25, and 40 °C during one month of storage and expressed in: peroxide value, p-anisidine, and thiobarbituric reactive substances—TBARS value, while for NEs, lipid hydroperoxides and TBARS values were monitored. Both synthetic (butylated hydroxytoluene—BHT and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid—EDTA), and natural (oregano essential oil—ORE and oak fruit extract—OAK) antioxidants were used. Pure RO and RO with BHT or ORE were stable at 5 °C and 25 °C, but at 40 °C BHT showed only moderate protection, while ORE was prooxidant. NEs prepared with new biodegradable polyglycerol esters-based surfactants, with droplet sizes of < 50 nm and narrow size distribution, showed improved physicochemical stability at room temperature, and especially at 40 °C, compared to NEs with polysorbate 80, which required the addition of antioxidants to preserve their stability. Natural antioxidants ORE and OAK were compatible with all NEs; therefore, their use is proposed as an effective alternative to synthetic antioxidants.

A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.

Optimization of the ultrasonic-assisted extraction process to obtain total phenolic and flavonoid compounds from watermelon (Citrullus lanatus) rind

This context presents the study of ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) to obtain phenolic and flavonoid compounds from watermelon rind powder (WRP). The antioxidant activity of the extracts was investigated using DPPH and ABTS⁺ assays. One-factor experiments were conducted to examine the effect of each factor (solid-to-liquid ratio (SLR), acetone concentration (AC), temperature, and time) on the UAE of WRP. Box-Behnken Design (BDD) model was employed to optimize the UAE conditions based on total phenolic contents (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and their antioxidant activities. The optimal conditions were 1:30.50 SLR, 70.71% AC, 29.78 °C, and 10.65 min extraction time. There were no significant differences between predicted and experimental results (less than 6.0%), recommending a feasible and innovative process of deploying UAE to extract phenolics and flavonoids effectively from watermelon rind.

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Sonication increases the extraction of total phenolic and flavonoid contents.

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Sonication increases the antioxidant activity of watermelon rind extracts.

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Box-Behnken Design model is used to optimize ultrasonic-assisted extraction conditions.

The fourth industrial revolution in the food industry-part II: Emerging food trends

The food industry has recently been under unprecedented pressure due to major global challenges, such as climate change, exponential increase in world population and urbanization, and the worldwide spread of new diseases and pandemics, such as the COVID-19. The fourth industrial revolution (Industry 4.0) has been gaining momentum since 2015 and has revolutionized the way in which food is produced, transported, stored, perceived, and consumed worldwide, leading to the emergence of new food trends. After reviewing Industry 4.0 technologies (e.g. artificial intelligence, smart sensors, robotics, blockchain, and the Internet of Things) in Part I of this work (Hassoun, Aït-Kaddour, et al. 2022. The fourth industrial revolution in the food industry-Part I: Industry 4.0 technologies. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 1-17.), this complimentary review will focus on emerging food trends (such as fortified and functional foods, additive manufacturing technologies, cultured meat, precision fermentation, and personalized food) and their connection with Industry 4.0 innovations. Implementation of new food trends has been associated with recent advances in Industry 4.0 technologies, enabling a range of new possibilities. The results show several positive food trends that reflect increased awareness of food chain actors of the food-related health and environmental impacts of food systems. Emergence of other food trends and higher consumer interest and engagement in the transition toward sustainable food development and innovative green strategies are expected in the future.

Potential Applications of Lilium Plants in Cosmetics: A Comprehensive Review Based on Research Papers and Patents

The application of cosmetics is indispensable in our current society. In recent years, with an increasing awareness of the long-term health benefits of naturally sourced ingredients, plant-based cosmetic products have gained increasing attention. Lilium belongs to the Liliaceae family, which is one of the main plant families used in cosmetics for skin care treatment. A large number of studies have shown that Lilium plants are rich in components such as phenolic acids, flavonoids, and polysaccharides, with high potential for cosmetic applications. However, the application of lilies in cosmetics has not been systematically reported. This knowledge gap can easily lead to the neglect of its application in cosmetics because lilies are most familiar as ornamental plants. Integrating academic papers and patent publications, we analyzed the potential cosmetic application ingredients in lily, as well as their applications in cosmetics and related efficacy. Patent analysis showed that applications for lily-related cosmetic patents are mainly concentrated in East Asia, including China, Korea, and Japan. The application of lilies involves all aspects of cosmetics, such as sunscreens, facial cleansers, facial masks, conditioners, and so on. Its functions are also rich and diverse, including antiaging, radiation protective, whitening, moisturizing, freckle removal, acne treatment, and hair regeneration promotion. In addition, lilies are compatible with the application of other herbs. Moreover, with a change in people’s consumption concepts and the consideration of long-term health benefits, lily-based food and medicine innovation with health care and beautification effects may be a promising direction.

Effectiveness of Dietary Supplement for Skin Moisturizing in Healthy Adults: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Background

The dietary supplement industry offers many oral cosmetics that purportedly assist in skin moisturization often with unclear evidence supporting efficacy and safety. To update the accessible proofs pertaining to the safety and effectiveness of oral dietary supplements to facilitate skin moisturizing via an all-around review and meta-analysis.

Methods

Three on-line databases [Pubmed, Embase, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL)] were retrieved from January 2000 to November 2021. An overall 66 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of skin care were recognized. Meta-analysis was performed for dietary supplements with four or more available research.

Results

Oral collagen or ceramide resulted in a statistically significant increase in skin hydration and a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to placebo. No benefits regarding the improvement of skin conditions in terms of water content and TEWL were observed for lactic acid bacteria or Lactobacillus fermented foods. A statistically significant and positive effect on skin hydration was observed for both hyaluronan and procyanidin, with an unknown effect on TEWL due to insufficient RCTs. There was a non-significant improvement in the water content of stratum corneum for astaxanthin based on subgroup analyses. Among the dietary supplements trialed in ≤ 3 RCTs, the judgment regarding their effects on skin moisturizing was prevented by inconsistent conclusions as well as insufficient research. All food supplements were safe throughout the research (normally ≤ 24 weeks).

Conclusion

Oral dietary supplements, including collagen, ceramides, hyaluronan, and procyanidin, were proven to be effective for skin moisturization. At present, for skin moisturization, the proofs supporting the recommendation of other dietary supplements, such as lactic acid bacteria and astaxanthin, are insufficient.

Systematic Review Registration

http://www.crd.york.ac.uk/PROSPERO/ identifier CRD42021290818.

Tyrosinase inhibitory mechanism and the anti-browning properties of piceid and its ester

Different mechanisms for inhibiting tyrosinase can be exploited to avoid quality losses caused by the enzymatic browning of fruits and vegetables. Piceid (PI) and piceid 6″-O- azelaic acid ester (PIA) are oxidized by tyrosinase; however, their oxidation products may have inhibitory effects on tyrosinase. This notion is because l-DOPA oxidation was inhibited after the pre-incubation of PI/PIA with tyrosinase, however, l-DOPA oxidation was not affected if this pre-incubation was not performed. Circular dichroism analysis indicated a conformational change in the secondary structure of tyrosinase after pre-incubation. Further, molecular docking and enzyme reaction kinetics assays were employed to reveal the mechanism underlying the effects of PI/PIA on tyrosinase in the absence of pre-incubation with tyrosinase. PI/PIA had anti-browning effects in the potato models. The increased rate of A₄₂₀ in PI/PIA groups at 24 h were 281% and 279%, which were approximately 2.4- and 2.5-fold lower than that of control (668%).

Contribution of Nanoscience Research in Antioxidants Delivery Used in Nutricosmetic Sector

Nanoscience applications in the food and cosmetic industry offer many potential benefits for consumers and society. Nanotechnologies permit the manipulation of matter at the nanoscale level, resulting in new properties and characteristics useful in food and cosmetic production, processing, packaging, and storage. Nanotechnology protects sensitive bioactive compounds, improves their bioavailability and water solubility, guarantees their release at a site of action, avoids contact with other constituents, and masks unpleasant taste. Biopolymeric nanoparticles, nanofibers, nanoemulsions, nanocapsules, and colloids are delivery systems used to produce food supplements and cosmetics. There are no barriers to nanoscience applications in food supplements and cosmetic industries, although the toxicity of nano-sized delivery systems is not clear. The physicochemical and toxicological characterization of nanoscale delivery systems used by the nutricosmeceutic industry is reviewed in this work.

Dietary Supplements and the Skin: Focus on Photoprotection and Antioxidant Activity—A Review

Skin health is not only significantly affected by ageing, but also by other lifestyle-related factors, such as sun exposure, exercise and eating habits, smoking or alcohol intake. It is known that the cutaneous tissue can exhibit visible signs of senescence, in the form of, for example, dull complexion, loss of firmness, or changes in pigmentation. Consumers attempt to improve skin health and appearance not only by cosmetic products, but also with the consumption of food supplements. Recently, there has been an increase in the amount of food supplements with claims that are related to skin and hair health. Nevertheless, the literature is still scarce in evidence of the efficacy of this type of products. Considering this scenario, we aim in this review to assemble studies and methodologies that are directed at the substantiation of the cutaneous health claims of food supplements. For example, we reviewed those that were indicative of antioxidant properties, improvement in pigmentation disorders, increased hydration or protection against the damages caused by ultraviolet radiation.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

Sustainable Valorization of Tomato By-Products to Obtain Bioactive Compounds: Their Potential in Inflammation and Cancer Management

Tomato producing and processing industries present undoubted potential for industrial discarded products valorization whether due to the overproduction of fresh tomatoes or to the loss during processing. Although tomato by-products are not yet considered a raw material, several studies have suggested innovative and profitable applications. It is often referred to as "tomato pomace" and is quite rich in a variety of bioactive compounds. Lycopene, vitamin C, β-carotene, phenolic compounds, and tocopherol are some of the bioactives herein discussed. Tomato by-products are also rich in minerals. Many of these compounds are powerful antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties besides modulating the immune system. Several researchers have focused on the possible application of natural ingredients, especially those extracted from foods, and their physiological and pharmacological effects. Herein, the effects of processing and further applications of the bioactive compounds present in tomato by-products were carefully reviewed, especially regarding the anti-inflammatory and anti-cancer effects. The aim of this review was thus to highlight the existing opportunities to create profitable and innovative applications for tomato by-products in health context.

Current and potential trends in the bioactive properties and health benefits of Prunus mume Sieb. Et Zucc: a comprehensive review for value maximization

Prunus mume Sieb. Et Zucc (P. mume) is an acidic fruit native to China (named Chinese Mei or greengage plum). It is currently cultivated in several Asian countries, including Japan ("Ume"), Korea (Maesil), and Vietnam (Mai or Mo). Due to its myriad nutritional and functional properties, it is accepted in different countries, and its characteristics account for its commercialization. In this review, we summarize the information on the bioactive compounds from the fruit of P. mume and their structure-activity relationships (SAR); the pulp has the highest enrichment of bioactive chemicals. The nutritional properties of P. mume and the numerous uses of its by-products make it a potential functional food. P. mume extracts exhibit antioxidant, anticancer, antimicrobial, and anti-hyperuricaemic properties, cardiovascular protective effects, and hormone regulatory properties in various in vitro and in vivo assays. SAR shows that the water solubility, molecular weight, and chemical conformation of P. mume extracts are closely related to their biological activity. However, further studies are needed to evaluate the fruit's potential nutritional and functional therapeutic mechanisms. The industrial process of large-scale production of P. mume and its extracts as functional foods or nutraceuticals needs to be further optimized.

Virgin coconut oil abrogates depression-associated cognitive deficits by modulating hippocampal antioxidant balance, GABAergic and glutamatergic receptors in mice

OBJECTIVES

GABA and glutamate neurotransmission play critical roles in both the neurobiology of depression and cognition; and Virgin coconut oil (VCO) is reported to support brain health. The present study investigated the effect of VCO on depression-associated cognitive deficits in mice.

METHODS

Thirty male mice divided into five groups were either exposed to chronic unpredicted mild stress (CUMS) protocol for 28 days or pre-treated with 3 mL/kg b. wt. of VCO for 21 days or post-treated with 3 mL/kg b. wt. of VCO for 21 days following 28 days of CUMS exposure. Mice were subjected to behavioural assessments for depressive-like behaviours and short-term memory, and thereafter euthanised. Hippocampal tissue was dissected from the harvested whole brain for biochemical and immunohistochemical evaluations.

RESULTS

Our results showed that CUMS exposure produced depressive-like behaviours, cognitive deficits and altered hippocampal redox balance. However, treatment with VCO abrogated depression-associated cognitive impairment, and enhanced hippocampal antioxidant concentration. Furthermore, immunohistochemical evaluation revealed significant improvement in GABA_A and mGluR1a immunoreactivity following treatment with VCO in the depressed mice.

CONCLUSIONS

Therefore, findings from this study support the dietary application of VCO to enhance neural resilience in patients with depression and related disorders.

Photoprotective Effect of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart Essential Oil Against UVB-induced Photoaging in Mice

Photoaging refers to the extrinsic aging resulting from ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, which impacts skin appearance and is accompanied by the risk of skin carcinoma. Developing natural products as photoprotective agents is of great interest in cosmetic industry nowadays. The present study aimed at investigating the possible use of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart essential oil (AEO) for the prevention of photoaging induced by UVB. AEO was characterized by chamazulene, which accounted for 38.92% among total 51 identified compounds. In in vitro assays, AEO was found to be a moderate antioxidant and good UVB filter with photostability. A UVB-induced photoaging mice model was established with three AEO formulations (0.1%, 0.5% and 1.5%, w/w) topically applied prior to UVB irradiation. The activities of catalase, particularly superoxide dismutase of skin increased, while malondialdehyde content decreased in AEO groups as compared with model controls. The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and depletion of hydroxyproline in skin were inhibited by AEO in a dose-dependent manner. Histological evaluation indicated that AEO decreased epidermal thickness, inflammatory cell infiltration, collagen degradation and elastin aberrance. These findings indicated that AEO could be a promising sunscreen agent in protecting the skin against photoaging.

Health Effects of Dyes, Minerals, and Vitamins Used in Cosmetics

The average woman uses 12 different cosmetic products every day, but they can have a negative effect on human health. Therefore, in recent years, consumer preferences have changed towards buying natural or ecological cosmetics free from preservatives or unnecessary dyes. The aim of this work is to discuss the use of dyes, minerals, and vitamins in cosmetics in terms of their safety and impact on human health. These substances are very important in the cosmetics industry. Most of them are of natural origin. Some minerals used in the production of face masks or creams are recommended to work against inflammations such as ulcers and acne. Clay minerals have exceptional qualities, among others, low or no toxicity and high bio-compatibility. However, some of them may be harmful. For example, the safety of using talc has been widely debated in recent years. Cosmetic-grade talc cannot contain detectable fibrous asbestos minerals. Moreover, talc should not be applied to the skin when the epidermal barrier is missing or significantly disrupted. The use of talc in cosmetic products in the European Union is restricted. Vitamins are one of the most commonly used, biologically active, and easily accessible components in cosmetics. For example, provitamin B5 (D-panthenol) is a bioactive substance. In cosmetic preparations, it has a softening, repairing, and anti-inflammatory effect and is responsible for regulating sebum secretion. However, some vitamins may be harmful to human health. For example, the use of skin-whitening cosmetics containing vitamin C causes allergic contact dermatitis, whereas the most common adverse effect of topical use of vitamin A is skin irritation, erythema, and peeling. Dyes, which are used to color cosmetics, do not improve the condition of the skin, hair, or nails. Some of them may be harmful to human health. For example, the dye CI 60730 (Acid Violet 43) is prohibited for use in eye products and cosmetics that have contact with mucous membranes. In conclusion, some of the popular cosmetic ingredients discussed in this paper may exert a negative influence on human health, and many of these harmful effects have been discovered recently. Therefore, there is a need for further studies on the possible negative effects of dyes, minerals, and vitamins used in cosmetic products.

Dermocosmetic applications of microalgal pigments

Among photosynthetic microorganisms, Cyanobacteria and Microalgae species have been highly studied thank to their high value-added compounds for several industrial applications. Thus, their production is increasing in the last decade to produce raw material for cosmetics. In fact, the daily routine includes the use of cosmetics and sunscreens to protect against the environmental changes, mainly the increment of ultraviolet (UV) radiation rate with a consequent skin damage and premature aging due to this overexposure. As it is well discussed, chemical UV filters are extensively incorporated into sunscreens formulas; however, they can induce allergenic reactions as well. For these reasons, some pigments derived from microalgae, such as astaxanthin, lutein, β-carotene as well as other biocompounds are now well described in the literature as well as biotechnologically manufactured as natural ingredients to be incorporated into skin care products with multifunctional benefits even for sunscreen purposes. Hence, this investigation summarizes the recent studies about the main pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms' biomasses as well as their uses in dermocosmetics with novel attributes, such as anti-aging agents, makeups, skin lightening and whitening, among others.

Phytoestrogens (Resveratrol and Equol) for Estrogen-Deficient Skin-Controversies/Misinformation versus Anti-Aging In Vitro and Clinical Evidence via Nutraceutical-Cosmetics

The overarching theme for this review is perspective. Superfoods (a marketing term for fruits and vegetables, etc.) have a positive connotation, while many superfoods contain phytoestrogens, a term that is alarming to the public and has a negative connotation because phytoestrogens are endocrine-disruptors, even though they are strong antioxidants that have many health benefits. To understand phytoestrogens, this paper provides a brief summary of the characteristics of: (a) estrogens, (b) estrogen receptors (ER), (c) estrogen-deficient skin, (d) how perspective(s) get off track, (e) phytoestrogen food sources, and (f) misconceptions of phytoestrogens and food safety, in general, that influence person(s) away from what is true. Finally, a brief history of cosmetics to nutraceuticals is covered plus the characteristics of phytoestrogens, resveratrol and equol on: (g) estrogen receptor binding, (h) topical and oral dosing, and (i) in vitro, molecular mechanisms and select clinical evidence, where both phytoestrogens (resveratrol and equol) demonstrate promising applications to improve skin health is presented along with future directions of nutraceuticals. Perspective is paramount in understanding the controversies associated with superfoods, phytoestrogens, and endocrine-disruptors because they have both positive and negative connotations. Everyone is exposed to and consumes these molecules everyday regardless of age, gender, or geographic location around the world, and how we understand this is a matter of perspective.

Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

The interest in seaweeds for cosmetic, cosmeceutics, and nutricosmetics is increasing based on the demand for natural ingredients. Seaweeds offer advantages in relation to their renewable character, wide distribution, and the richness and versatility of their valuable bioactive compounds, which can be used as ingredients, as additives, and as active agents in the formulation of skin care products. Bioactive compounds, such as polyphenols, polysaccharides, proteins, peptides, amino acids, lipids, vitamins, and minerals, are responsible for the biological properties associated with seaweeds. Seaweed fractions can also offer technical features, such as thickening, gelling, emulsifying, texturizing, or moistening to develop cohesive matrices. Furthermore, the possibility of valorizing industrial waste streams and algal blooms makes them an attractive, low cost, raw and renewable material. This review presents an updated summary of the activities of different seaweed compounds and fractions based on scientific and patent literature.

The beauty of biocatalysis: sustainable synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics

Covering: 2015 up to July 2021The market for cosmetics is consumer driven and the desire for green, sustainable and natural ingredients is increasing. The use of isolated enzymes and whole-cell organisms to synthesise these products is congruent with these values, especially when combined with the use of renewable, recyclable or waste feedstocks. The literature of biocatalysis for the synthesis of ingredients in cosmetics in the past five years is herein reviewed.

Sustainable use of tropical fruits? Challenges and opportunities of applying the waste-to-value concept to international value chains

Agriculture and food science literature on waste-to-value applications that allow upcycling of by-product ingredients is increasing. However, this stream of research rarely takes an international trade and sustainability systems perspective. This focused review defines the term of waste-to-value and the sustainable development goals connected to it, and points to the tensions and questions arising when international trade is involved. Further, it exemplifies the challenges and opportunities of waste-to-value in tropical fruit trade through five cases of tropical fruit from South America: Green coconut, açaí, maracujá, cambuci, and jabuticaba. We present a model of the international supply chain that indicates where the opportunities of waste-to-value applications in international tropical fruit trade are situated, and discuss which future research questions need to be addressed to tackle the challenges of waste-to-value in global tropical fruit chains. Establishing the waste-to-value approach in the export of yet-underused tropical fruits can amongst others improve local employment, preserve natural resources, allow favorable use of side-streams in local energy production, environmentally friendly packaging material for transport, and add health functionalities to the end-consumer products, but challenges have to be solved in order to ensure these environmental and social benefits materialize.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.