Terminal epidermal differentiation of human keratinocytes grown in chemically defined medium on inert filter substrates at the air-liquid interface

Development of 3D gingival in vitro models using primary gingival cells

Since March 2013, animal testing for toxicity evaluation of cosmetic ingredients is banned in Europe. This directive applies to all personal care ingredients including oral ingredients. Gingival in vitro 3D models are commercially available. However, it is essential to develop "in house model" to modulate several parameters to study oral diseases, determine the toxicity of ingredients, test biocompatibility, and evaluate different formulations of cosmetic ingredients. Our expertise in tissue engineering allowed us to reconstruct human oral tissues from normal human gingival cells (fibroblasts and keratinocytes). Indeed, isolation from surgical leftover was performed to culture these gingival cells. These cells keep their endogenous capacity to proliferate allowing reconstruction of equivalent tissue close to in vivo tissue. Reconstruction of gingival epithelium, chorion equivalent, and the combination of these two tissues (full thickness) using primary gingival cells displayed all characteristics of an in vivo gingival model.

Research progress in the development of 3D skin models and their application to in vitro skin irritation testing

Toxicological assessment of chemicals is crucial for safeguarding human health and the environment. However, traditional animal experiments are associated with ethical, technical, and predictive limitations in assessing the toxicity of chemicals to the skin. With the recent development of bioengineering and tissue engineering, three-dimensional (3D) skin models have been commonly used as an alternative for toxicological studies. The skin consists of the subcutaneous, dermis, and epidermis. All these layers have crucial functions such as physical and biological protection and thermoregulation. The epidermis is the shallowest layer protecting against external substances and media. Because the skin is the first contact point for many substances, this organ is very significant for assessing local toxicity following skin exposure. According to the classification of the United Nations Global Harmonized System, skin irritation is a major potentially hazardous characteristic of chemicals, and this characteristic must be accurately assessed and classified for enhancing chemical safety management and preventing and reducing chemical accidents. This review discusses the research progress of 3D skin models and introduces their application in assessing chemical skin irritation.

Exploring the Functions of Mutant p53 through TP53 Knockout in HaCaT Keratinocytes

Approximately 50% of tumors carry mutations in TP53; thus, evaluation of the features of mutant p53 is crucial to understanding the mechanisms underlying cell transformation and tumor progression. HaCaT keratinocytes represent a valuable model for research in this area since they are considered normal, although they bear two gain-of-function mutations in TP53. In the present study, transcriptomic and proteomic profiling were employed to examine the functions of mutant p53 and to investigate the impact of its complete abolishment. Our findings indicate that CRISPR-mediated TP53 knockout results in significant changes at the transcriptomic and proteomic levels. The knockout of TP53 significantly increased the migration rate and altered the expression of genes associated with invasion, migration, and EMT but suppressed the epidermal differentiation program. These outcomes suggest that, despite being dysfunctional, p53 may still possess oncosuppressive functions. However, despite being considered normal keratinocytes, HaCaT cells exhibit oncogenic properties.

A Comprehensive Comparison of Tissue Processing Methods for High-Quality MALDI Imaging of Lipids in Reconstructed Human Epidermis

Matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization (MALDI) mass spectrometry imaging (MSI) has become an important tool for skin analysis, as it allows the simultaneous detection and localization of diverse molecular species within a sample. The use of in vivo and ex vivo human skin models is costly and presents ethical issues; therefore, reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models, which mimic the upper part of native human skin, represent a suitable alternative to investigate adverse effects of chemicals applied to the skin. However, there are few publications investigating the feasibility of using MALDI MSI on RHE models. Therefore, the aim of this study was to investigate the effect of sample preparation techniques, i.e., substrate, sample thickness, washing, and matrix recrystallization, on the quality of MALDI MSI for lipids analysis of the SkinEthic RHE model. Images were generated using an atmospheric pressure MALDI source coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer with a pixel size of 5 μm. Masses detected in a defined region of interest were analyzed and annotated using the LipostarMSI platform. The results indicated that the combination of (1) coated metallic substrates, such as APTES-coated stainless-steel plates, (2) tissue sections of 6 μm thickness, and (3) aqueous washing before HCCA matrix spraying (without recrystallization), resulted in images with a significant signal intensity as well as numerous m/z values. This refined methodology using AP-MALDI coupled to a high-resolution mass spectrometer should improve the current sample preparation workflow to evaluate changes in skin composition after application of dermatocosmetics.

Human Epidermal Keratinocytes in Culture: A Story of Multiple Recipes for a Single Cell Type

BACKGROUND

For one half-century, cultures of human epidermal keratinocytes have opened new paths of research in skin biology and dermatology. Either performed with serum and feeder layer, in serum-free conditions, or in autocrine conditions, cells cultured as monolayers became research materials for basic science and dermatology, as well as a source for grafting, particularly to treat severely burned patients. More recently, tissue reconstruction at air-liquid interface has opened new perspectives for in vitro toxicology, studies of epidermal barrier, and modeling skin diseases.

SUMMARY

This review presents a brief retrospective of the emergence of keratinocyte-based culture techniques. It also presents opportunities and eventual problems that researchers might encounter when exploring the skin using such procedures.

KEY MESSAGES

While methodologies in tissue culture evolve, the multiplicity of procedures concomitantly increases, requiring to make some selective but difficult choice. Keeping tracks of technological evolution in epidermal cell culture should help choosing the adequate methodology for a specific investigation or innovating with new, more dedicated ones.

Human epidermis organotypic cultures, a reproducible system recapitulating the epidermis in vitro

The translatability of research is highly dependent on models that recapitulate human tissues and organs. Here, we describe a procedure for the generation of human epidermis organotypic cultures (HEOCs) from primary keratinocytes isolated from foreskin and adult skin as well as from an immortalized keratinocyte cell line (KerTr). We tested several media conditions to develop a defined HEOC growing and expansion media. We characterized the HEOCs and show that in optimal culture conditions they express the proliferation marker Ki67, the basement membrane protein collagen 17 (col17) and the epidermal differentiation markers keratin 15 (K15), keratin 14 (K14), keratin 5 (K5), keratin 10 (K10), keratin 1 (K1), transglutaminase 1 (TGM1), transglutaminase 3 (TGM3) and filaggrin (FLG). Thus, they recapitulate the human epidermis and are stratified from the basal layer to the stratum corneum. These HEOC can be generated reproducibly on a large scale, making it an invaluable model for screening therapeutic compounds and also for the study of pathologies affecting the epidermis.

Modelling the Complexity of Human Skin In Vitro

The skin serves as an important barrier protecting the body from physical, chemical and pathogenic hazards as well as regulating the bi-directional transport of water, ions and nutrients. In order to improve the knowledge on skin structure and function as well as on skin diseases, animal experiments are often employed, but anatomical as well as physiological interspecies differences may result in poor translatability of animal-based data to the clinical situation. In vitro models, such as human reconstructed epidermis or full skin equivalents, are valuable alternatives to animal experiments. Enormous advances have been achieved in establishing skin models of increasing complexity in the past. In this review, human skin structures are described as well as the fast evolving technologies developed to reconstruct the complexity of human skin structures in vitro.

Wnt-activating human skin organoid model of atopic dermatitis induced by Staphylococcus aureus and its protective effects by Cutibacterium acnes

A recently developed human PSC-derived skin organoid model has opened up new avenues for studying skin development, diseases, and regeneration. The current model has limitations since the generated organoids are enclosed, circular aggregates with an inside-out morphology with unintended off-target development of cartilage. Here, we first demonstrated that Wnt signaling activation resulted in larger organoids without off-target cartilage. We optimized further using an air-liquid interface (ALI) culture method to recapitulate structural features representative of human skin tissue. Finally, we used the ALI-skin organoid platform to model atopic dermatitis by Staphylococcus aureus (SA) colonization and infection. SA infection led to a disrupted skin barrier and increased production of epidermal- and dermal-derived inflammatory cytokines. Additionally, we found that pre-treatment with Cutibacterium acnes had a protective effect on SA-infected organoids. Thus, this ALI-skin organoid platform may be a useful tool for modeling human skin diseases and evaluating the efficacy of novel therapeutics.

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Wnt signaling activation results in larger organoids without off-target cartilage

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Air-liquid interface culture is used to recapitulate human skin tissue structure

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S. aureus infection damaged the skin barrier and elevated inflammatory cytokines

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Pre-treated Cutibacterium acnes had a protective effect on Staphylococcus aureus-infected organoids

A Bioengineering Approach for the Development of Fibroblast Growth Factor-7-Functionalized Sericin Biomaterial Applicable for the Cultivation of Keratinocytes

Growth factors, including fibroblast growth factor-7 (FGF-7), are a group of proteins that stimulate various cellular processes and are often used with carriers to prevent the rapid loss of their activities. Sericin with great biocompatibility has been investigated as a proteinaceous carrier to enhance the stability of incorporated proteins. The difficulties in obtaining intact sericin from silkworm cocoons and the handling of growth factors with poor stability necessitate an efficient technique to incorporate the protein into a sericin-based biomaterial. Here, we report the generation of a transgenic silkworm line simultaneously expressing and incorporating FGF-7 into cocoon shells containing almost exclusively sericin. Growth-factor-functionalized sericin cocoon shells requiring simple lyophilization and pulverization processes were successfully used to induce the proliferation and migration of keratinocytes. Moreover, FGF-7 incorporated into sericin-cocoon powder exhibited remarkable stability, with more than 70% of bioactivity being retained after being stored as a suspension at 25 °C for 3 months. Transgenic sericin-cocoon powder was used to continuously supply biologically active FGF-7 to generate a three-dimensionally cultured keratinocyte model in vitro. The outcomes of this study propound a feasible approach to producing cytokine-functionalized sericin materials that are ready to use for cell cultivation.

A 3D Printed Device for In Vitro Generation of Stratified Epithelia at the Air-Liquid Interface

Air-liquid interface (ALI) cultures are used to produce stratified epithelial tissues in vitro, notably for the production of oral mucosal equivalents. Currently, there are few purpose-built devices which aim to enhance the ease and reproducibility of generating such tissue. Most ALI cultures utilise stainless steel grids or cell culture inserts to elevate the matrix or scaffold to the surface of the culture media. Here, a novel buoyant epithelial culture device (BECD) was designed to both contain a fibroblast-seeded collagen hydrogel and float in culture media, thereby automatically maintaining the ALI without further user intervention. BECDs aim to mitigate several issues associated with ALI culture; reducing the chance of media flooding the epithelial layer from physical disturbance, reducing technique-sensitivity for less experienced users, and improving the reproducibility of the epithelia generated. H400 oral squamous cell carcinoma cells cultured in BECDs for 7, 14 and 21 days showed continuous increase in epithelial tissue thickness with expected localisation of epithelial differentiation markers: cytokeratin 5, involucrin and E-cadherin. Fused filament fabrication 3D printing with polypropylene used in BECD production allows for rapid turnover and design iteration, presenting a versatile, adaptable and useful tool for application in in vitro cell culture.

Design of an Integrated Microvascularized Human Skin-on-a-Chip Tissue Equivalent Model

Tissue-engineered skin constructs have been under development since the 1980s as a replacement for human skin tissues and animal models for therapeutics and cosmetic testing. These have evolved from simple single-cell assays to increasingly complex models with integrated dermal equivalents and multiple cell types including a dermis, epidermis, and vasculature. The development of micro-engineered platforms and biomaterials has enabled scientists to better recreate and capture the tissue microenvironment in vitro, including the vascularization of tissue models and their integration into microfluidic chips. However, to date, microvascularized human skin equivalents in a microfluidic context have not been reported. Here, we present the design of a novel skin-on-a-chip model integrating human-derived primary and immortalized cells in a full-thickness skin equivalent. The model is housed in a microfluidic device, in which a microvasculature was previously established. We characterize the impact of our chip design on the quality of the microvascular networks formed and evidence that this enables the formation of more homogenous networks. We developed a methodology to harvest tissues from embedded chips, after 14 days of culture, and characterize the impact of culture conditions and vascularization (including with pericyte co-cultures) on the stratification of the epidermis in the resulting skin equivalents. Our results indicate that vascularization enhances stratification and differentiation (thickness, architecture, and expression of terminal differentiation markers such as involucrin and transglutaminase 1), allowing the formation of more mature skin equivalents in microfluidic chips. The skin-on-a-chip tissue equivalents developed, because of their realistic microvasculature, may find applications for testing efficacy and safety of therapeutics delivered systemically, in a human context.

The proliferative and multipotent epidermal progenitor cells for human skin reconstruction in vitro and in vivo

OBJECTIVES

The skin exhibits tremendous regenerative potential, as different types of progenitor and stem cells regulate skin homeostasis and damage. However, in vitro primary keratinocytes present with several drawbacks, such as high donor variability, short lifespan, and limited donor tissue availability. Therefore, more stable primary keratinocytes are needed to generate multiple uniform in vitro and in vivo skin models.

RESULTS

We identified epidermal progenitor cells from primary keratinocytes using Integrin beta 1 (ITGB1) an epidermal stem cell marker markedly decreased after senescence in vitro. Epidermal progenitor cells exhibited unlimited proliferation and the potential for multipotent differentiation capacity. Moreover, they could completely differentiate to form an organotypic skin model including conversed mesenchymal cells in the dermis and could mimic the morphologic and biochemical processes of human epidermis. We also discovered that proliferation and the multipotent differentiation capacity of these cells relied on ITGB1 expression. Eventually, we examined the in vitro and in vivo wound healing capacity of these epidermal progenitor cells.

CONCLUSIONS

Overall, the findings suggest that these stable and reproducible cells can differentiate into multiple lineages, including human skin models. They are a potentially powerful tool for studying skin regeneration, skin diseases, and are an alternative for in vivo experiments.

ISO 10993-23 In vitro irritation testing for medical devices: Substantiating applicability to mild irritants and non-extractables

Irritation testing is an integral part of the biocompatibility assessment of medical devices and has historically been conducted on animals, either by direct contact or with polar and non-polar solvent extracts. In 2018 an ISO-sponsored interlaboratory validation study demonstrated that two reconstituted human epidermis (RhE) based assays, which were adapted from validated methods used for industrial chemicals, produced results essentially equivalent to those obtained with in vivo tests. This led to the publication of the ISO 10993-23:2021 standard on irritation testing, which states that RhE-based assays are now the preferred method. The 2018 validation study evaluated strong irritants, so we tested nine mild irritants (GHS Category 3), neat and spiked at different concentrations into medical device extracts, per ISO 10993-23:2021. The results substantiated the applicability of RhE-based assays for evaluating mild irritants in medical device extracts. Moreover, the 2018 validation study tested solid extractable medical device materials but did not consider non-extractable medical device materials (e.g., creams, gels, or sprays). By testing nine marketed non-extractable materials, either neat or spiked with irritants, we also confirmed that RhE-based assays are readily applicable to such medical device materials.

Development of an Aged Full-Thickness Skin Model Using Flexible Skin-on-a-Chip Subjected to Mechanical Stimulus Reflecting the Circadian Rhythm

The skin is subject to both intrinsic aging caused by metabolic processes in the body and extrinsic aging caused by exposure to environmental factors. Intrinsic aging is an important obstacle to in vitro experimentation as its long-term progression is difficult to replicate. Here, we accelerated aging of a full-thickness skin equivalent by applying periodic mechanical stimulation, replicating the circadian rhythm for 28 days. This aging skin model was developed by culturing a full-thickness, three-dimensional skin equivalent with human fibroblasts and keratinocytes to produce flexible skin-on-a-chip. Accelerated aging associated with periodic compressive stress was evidenced by reductions in the epidermal layer thickness, contraction rate, and secretion of Myb. Increases in β-galactosidase gene expression and secretion of reactive oxygen species and transforming growth factor-β1 were also observed. This in vitro aging skin model is expected to greatly accelerate drug development for skin diseases and cosmetics that cannot be tested on animals.

Investigation of mouse amniotic fluid for stimulating ability of keratinocyte differentiation depending on the fetal stage

During fetal development, the barrier function of the fetal skin is developed under specific conditions for epidermis formation. In keratinocyte differentiation, the well-orchestrated production and modification of various structural proteins are induced. We assessed the epidermal barrier function in different fetal stages by evaluating the enzymatic activity of cross-linking proteins, transglutaminases, and the permeation of fluorescence dye in the stained epidermal sections. During days 15.5-17.5 in gestation, the enzymatic activities in the epidermis appeared to increase significantly; meanwhile, dye permeation was substantially decreased, suggesting the formation of a protective barrier. For the fetal epidermis formation in the earlier stage, unclarified stimulating factors in the amniotic fluid (AF) are possible to promote barrier function by stimulating keratinocyte differentiation. Thus, we performed proteomic spectrometric (MS) analysis on the components in the AF at different fetal stages. Also, we investigated the promotive ability of the components using a cultured keratinocyte differentiation system. According to the MS analysis, the AF components appeared to exhibit stage-specific variations, where possible unique functions have been identified. We also found that adding the AF from each stage to the medium for cultured keratinocytes specifically enhanced the levels of the differentiation markers. These results provide information on the possible role of AF that contains regulatory factors on keratinocyte differentiation.

Human Skin Permeation Enhancement Using PLGA Nanoparticles Is Mediated by Local pH Changes

The steady improvement and optimization of transdermal permeation is a constant and challenging pharmaceutical task. In this study the influence of poly(lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) nanoparticles on the dermal permeation of the anti-inflammatory drug flufenamic acid (FFA) was investigated. For this aim, different vehicles under non-buffered and buffered conditions and different skin models (human heat separated epidermis and reconstructed human epidermis equivalents) were tested. Permeation experiments were performed using static Franz diffusion cells under infinite dosing conditions. Already the presence of drug-free nanoparticles increased drug permeation across the skin. Drug permeation was even enhanced when applying drug-loaded nanoparticles. In contrast, buffered vehicles with different pH values (pH 5.4–7.4) revealed the influence of the pH on the permeation of FFA. The change of the surrounding pH of the biodegradable nanoparticulate system was demonstrated and visualized using pH-sensitive fluorescent probes. While a potential contribution of hair follicles could be ruled out, our data suggest that the enhanced permeation of FFA through human skin in the presence of PLGA nanoparticles is mediated by a locally decreased pH during hydrolytic degradation of this polymer. This hypothesis is supported by the observation that skin permeation of the weak base caffeine was not affected.

The Keratinocyte as a Crucial Cell in the Predisposition, Onset, Progression, Therapy and Study of the Atopic Dermatitis

The keratinocyte (KC) is the main functional and structural component of the epidermis, the most external layer of the skin that is highly specialized in defense against external agents, prevention of leakage of body fluids and retention of internal water within the cells. Altered epidermal barrier and aberrant KC differentiation are involved in the pathophysiology of several skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis (AD). AD is a chronic inflammatory disease characterized by cutaneous and systemic immune dysregulation and skin microbiota dysbiosis. Nevertheless, the pathological mechanisms of this complex disease remain largely unknown. In this review, we summarize current knowledge about the participation of the KC in different aspects of the AD. We provide an overview of the genetic predisposing and environmental factors, inflammatory molecules and signaling pathways of the KC that participate in the physiopathology of the AD. We also analyze the link among the KC, the microbiota and the inflammatory response underlying acute and chronic skin AD lesions.

Construction of a high fidelity epidermis-on-a-chip for scalable in vitro irritation evaluation

3D skin equivalents have been increasingly used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, but the troublesome operation procedure and low throughput restricted their applications as in vitro safety evaluation models. Organ-on-a-chip, an emerging powerful tool in tissue/organ modeling, could be utilized to improve the function of the skin model compared with that of traditional static skin models, as well as innovate an automatic and modular way for construction or detection. In this research, we grew and differentiated human keratinocytes within a microfluidic chip to construct an integrated epidermis-on-a-chip (iEOC) system, which is specially designed to integrate multi-culture units with integrated bubble removal structures as well as trans-epithelial electrical resistance (TEER) electrodes for barrier function detection in situ. After 14 days of culture at the air-liquid interface (ALI), the constructed epidermis-on-a-chip demonstrated histological features similar to those observed in normal human epidermis: a proliferating basal layer and differentiating spinous, granular, and cornified layers, especially the TEER value reached 3 kΩ cm² and prevented more than 99% of Cascade Blue-607 Da permeation owing to the enhanced barrier function. Further immunofluorescence analysis also indicated typical keratin expression including keratin-14, keratin-10, loricrin, involucrin, and filaggrin. With the TEER monitoring integration in the chip, it could be convenient for scale-up high-quality epidermis-on-chip fabrication and correlated investigation. Additionally, the iEOC can distinguish all the 10 known toxins and non-toxins in irritation measurement by MTT assay, which is consistent with animal testing according to the OECD. Preliminarily detection of irritation responses like inflammatory cytokines also predicted different irritation reactions. This high fidelity epidermis-on-a-chip could be a potential alternative in in vitro skin irritation evaluation. This microchip and automated microfluidic systems also pave the way for scalable testing in multidisciplinary industrial applications.

Ex Vivo Human Skin: An Alternative Test System for Skin Irritation and Corrosion Assays

Native human skin has been reported in the literature as being an important experimental model for studying skin biology. Studies performed by our group have shown that ex vivo skin, from elective plastic surgery, maintains the biological characteristics of native skin under specific culture conditions. As such, it might be a feasible model for the safety and efficacy testing of topical substances. While Brazil is at the forefront of global regulation implementation, Brazilian researchers are not always able to transfer certain widely used protocols to their laboratories, particularly protocols that involve the use of reconstructed tissues with limited viability, such as those for skin corrosion (OECD TG 431) and irritation testing (OECD TG 439). In this study, we investigated the applicability of the ex vivo skin model to the evaluation of irritation and corrosion potential of a number of proficiency substances described in TG 431 and TG 439. The skin fragments were standardised in size and diameter, and placed into cell culture inserts. The experimental protocol was conducted according to TG 431 and TG 439. The results obtained show that ex vivo skin could represent a promising tool for the evaluation of irritation and corrosion potential of substances (subject to inclusion and exclusion criteria), as recommended by OECD guidelines. While this is a proof-of-concept study, the use of ex vivo skin should be considered for such testing.

Characterization of a New Full-Thickness In Vitro Skin Model

Since 30 years, bioengineering allowed to reconstruct human tissues using normal human cells. Skin is one of the first organ to be reconstructed thanks to the development of specific cell culture media and supports favoring the culture of human skin cells, such as fibroblasts, keratinocytes, or melanocytes. Skin models have evolved from epidermis to complex models including a dermis. The purpose of the present study was to design a reconstructed full-thickness (FT) skin suitable to perform in vitro testing of both molecules and plant extracts. First, we reconstructed epidermis with normal human keratinocytes displaying the expected multilayered morphology and expressing specific epidermal proteins (e-cadherin, claudin-1, p63, Ki67, Keratin 10, filaggrin, and loricrin). Then, a dermal equivalent was developed using a collagen matrix allowing the growth of fibroblasts. The functionality of the dermis was demonstrated by the measurement of skin parameters such as rigidity or elasticity with Ballistometer^® and other parameters such as the contraction over time and the expression of dermal proteins. The combination of these two compartments (dermis and epidermis) allowed to reconstruct an FT model. This study model allowed to study the communication between compartments and with the establishment of a dermoepidermal junction showing the expression of specific proteins (collagen XVII, laminin, and collagen IV). Impact statement The objective of our research project was to design a three-dimensional human full-thickness (FT) skin suitable to perform in vitro testing of molecules and plant ingredients. The combination of these two reconstructed compartments (dermis and epidermis) allowed to reconstruct an FT model. This study model allowed to study the communication between compartments and with the establishment of a dermoepidermal junction showing the expression of specific proteins (collagen XVII, laminin, and collagen IV). This in vitro model can be use by cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries to study the effect of chemical or natural compounds on the skin.

A novel organ-chip system emulates three-dimensional architecture of the human epithelia and the mechanical forces acting on it

Successful translation of in vivo experimental data to human patients is an unmet need and a bottleneck in the development of effective therapeutics. Organ-on-Chip technology aims to address this need by leveraging recent significant advancements in microfabrication and biomaterials, which enable modeling of organs and their functionality. These microengineered chips offer researchers the possibility to recreate critical elements of native tissue architecture such as in vivo relevant tissue-tissue interface, air-liquid interface, and mechanical forces, including mechanical stretch and fluidic shear stress, which are crucial to recapitulate tissue level functions. Here, we present the development of a new, comprehensive 3D cell-culture system, where we combined our proprietary Organ-Chip technology with the advantages offered by three-dimensional organotypic culture. Leveraging microfabrication techniques, we engineered a flexible chip that consists of a chamber containing an organotypic epithelium, surrounded by two vacuum channels that can be actuated to stretch the hydrogel throughout its thickness. Furthermore, the ceiling of this chamber is a removable lid with a built-in microchannel that can be perfused with liquid or air and removed as needed for direct access to the tissue. The bottom part of this chamber is made from a porous flexible membrane which allows diffusive mass transport to and from the microfluidic channel positioned below the membrane. This additional microfluidic channel can be coated with endothelial cells to emulate a blood vessel and recapitulate endothelial interactions. Our results show that the Open-Top Chip design successfully addresses common challenges associated with the Organs-on-Chip technology, including the capability to incorporate a tissue-specific extracellular matrix gel seeded with primary stromal cells, to reproduce the architectural complexity of tissues by micropatterning the gel, and to extract the gel for H&E staining. We also provide proof-of-concept data on the feasibility of using the system with primary human skin and alveolar epithelial cells.

Validation study of a new reconstructed human epidermis model EPiTRI for in vitro skin irritation test according to OECD guidelines

Following the global trend of reducing animal testing, various reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) models for skin irritation test (SIT) have been developed, verified, validated and included in OECD TG 439. We developed a new RHE called EPiTRI and a SIT method using EPiTRI (EPiTRI-SIT model) following the OECD guidelines. EPiTRI possesses morphological, biochemical and physiological properties similar to human epidermis with well-differentiated multilayered viable cells with barrier function. The EPiTRI-SIT model was tested for 20 reference chemicals in Performance Standard of OECD TG 439 (GD 220), showing good predictive capacity with 100% sensitivity, 70% specificity and 85% accuracy. EPiTRI had sensitivity in detecting di-n-propyl disulphate, as an irritant chemical (UN GHS Category 2), whereas most validated reference methods detected it as a non-irritant. An international validation study of EPiTRI-SIT was conducted in four laboratories to confirm the within- and between-laboratory reproducibility, as well as predictive capacity. The phase I/II within-laboratory and between-laboratory reproducibility was 100%/95% and 95%, respectively. The overall sensitivity, specificity and accuracy of EPiTRI-SIT was 96%, 70% and 83%, respectively, which fulfilled the OECD criteria. Thus, EPiTRI, meets the criteria of Performance Standards of OECD TG 439 (GD 220) and is suitable for screening irritating chemicals in vitro.

Influence of the environmental relative humidity on the inflammatory response of skin model after exposure to various environmental pollutants

The skin is an essential barrier, protecting the body against the environment and its numerous pollutants. Several environmental pollutants are known to affect the skin, inducing premature aging through mechanisms including oxidative stress, inflammation, and impairment of skin functions. Even climate conditions can impact the skin. Therefore, using a Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE), we tested the effect of two samples of fine particulate matters (PM_0.3-2.5 - one metals-rich sample and the other organic compounds-rich), two Volatile Organic Compounds mixtures (VOCs - from a solvent-based paint and a water-based paint) and Tobacco Smoke (TS). All pollutants affected cellular functionality, but to a lesser extent for the water-based paint VOC. This effect was enhanced when RHE were preconditioned for 2 h by a semi-dry airflow (45% relative humidity) before pollutants application, compared to preconditioning by a humid airflow (90% relative humidity). In the absence of preconditioning, IL-1α, IL-6, IL-8, and RANTES were almost systematically induced by pollutants. When RHE were preconditioned by a semi-dry or humid airflow before being subjected to pollutants, the increase of IL-1α, IL-8, and RANTES falls into two groups. Similarly to RHE not treated with pollutants, RHE treated with VOCs after preconditioning by a semi-dry airflow showed increased IL-1α, IL-8, and RANTES release. On the contrary, RHE treated with PM or TS after preconditioning by a semi-dry airflow show a lower increase in IL-1α, IL-8, and RANTES compared to preconditioning by a humid airflow. The effect of real environmental relative humidity conditions of the air, combined with acute exposure to various environmental pollutants, seemed to relate mainly to structural changes of the skin, determining the outcome of the inflammatory response depending on the physicochemical characteristics of pollutants.

The Anti-Ageing and Whitening Potential of a Cosmetic Serum Containing 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic Acid

Skin ageing has many manifestations such as wrinkles, dryness, hyperpigmentation, and uneven skin tone. Extrinsic and intrinsic factors, especially solar ultraviolet light (UVB), contribute to skin ageing; its main features are brown spots, alterations in melanin pigmentation, and a decrease in collagen and hyaluronic acid linked to oxidative stress. Several studies showed that topical products containing ingredients with antioxidant activity can reduce oxidative damage; to provide a maximum anti-ageing effect to the skin, topical products can combine various ingredients. C-SHOT SERUM contains a combination of two molecules with a proven anti-ageing activity: a high percentage (30%) of a more stable vitamin C derivative, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid, and lactic acid (1%). The product showed a high biocompatibility, assessed through an MTT assay on keratinocytes and on Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE, SkinEthic); the anti-ageing activity was demonstrated on human dermal fibroblasts and keratinocytes by a statistically significant increase in collagen production and a reduction of a UVB-induced DNA damage marker (γ-H2AX histone), indicating DNA protection. Moreover, a depigmenting activity, shown by a highly significant decrease in melanin content on treated Reconstructed Human Pigmented Epidermis (RHPE), was assessed. According to the data of our study, the tested product contrasts the effect of skin ageing and irregular pigmentation due to the physiological decline of the skin.

3D skin models in domestic animals

The skin is a passive and active barrier which protects the body from the environment. Its health is essential for the accomplishment of this role. Since several decades, the skin has aroused a strong interest in various fields (for e.g. cell biology, medicine, toxicology, cosmetology, and pharmacology). In contrast to other organs, 3D models were mostly and directly elaborated in humans due to its architectural simplicity and easy accessibility. The development of these models benefited from the societal pressure to reduce animal experiments. In this review, we first describe human and mouse skin structure and the major differences with other mammals and birds. Next, we describe the different 3D human skin models and their main applications. Finally, we review the available models for domestic animals and discuss the current and potential applications.

Self-Assembled Thermoresponsive Nanogel from Grafted Hyaluronic Acid as a Biocompatible Delivery Platform for Curcumin with Enhanced Drug Loading and Biological Activities

A hyaluronic acid-grafted poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) (HA-pNIPAM) was synthesized as a polymeric nanogel platform for encapsulation and delivery of hydrophobic bioactive compounds using curcumin as a model drug. As demonstrated by transmission electron microscopy and dynamic light scattering techniques, the HA-pNIPAM was simply assembled into spherical nano-sized particles with the thermoresponsive behavior. The success of curcumin aqueous solubilization was confirmed by fluorescent spectroscopy. The resulting nanogel formulation enhanced the aqueous solubility and uptake into NIH-3T3 cells of curcumin. This nanogel formulation also demonstrates cytocompatibility against NIH-3T3 cells, which deems it safe as a delivery vehicle. Moreover, the formulation has a slight skin-protection effect using an artificial skin equivalence model. The curcumin-loaded HA-pNIPAM nanogel showed an anti-proliferative activity against MDA-MB-231, Caco-2, HepG2, HT-29, and TNF-α-induced hyperproliferation of keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells. The thermoresponsive HA-pNIPAM nanogel reported here could be further optimized as a platform for controlled-release systems to encapsulate pharmaceuticals for therapeutic applications.

Skin Disease Models In Vitro and Inflammatory Mechanisms: Predictability for Drug Development

Investigative skin biology, analysis of human skin diseases, and numerous clinical and pharmaceutical applications rely on skin models characterized by reproducibility and predictability. Traditionally, such models include animal models, mainly rodents, and cellular models. While animal models are highly useful in many studies, they are being replaced by human cellular models in more and more approaches amid recent technological development due to ethical considerations. The culture of keratinocytes and fibroblasts has been used in cell biology for many years. However, only the development of co-culture and three-dimensional epidermis and full-skin models have fundamentally contributed to our understanding of cell-cell interaction and cell signalling in the skin, keratinocyte adhesion and differentiation, and mechanisms of skin barrier function. The modelling of skin diseases has highlighted properties of the skin important for its integrity and cutaneous development. Examples of monogenic as well as complex diseases including atopic dermatitis and psoriasis have demonstrated the role of skin models to identify pathomechanisms and drug targets. Recent investigations have indicated that 3D skin models are well suitable for drug testing and preclinical studies of topical therapies. The analysis of skin diseases has recognized the importance of inflammatory mechanisms and immune responses and thus other cell types such as dendritic cells and T cells in the skin. Current developments include the production of more complete skin models comprising a range of different cell types. Organ models and even multi-organ systems are being developed for the analysis of higher levels of cellular interaction and drug responses and are among the most recent innovations in skin modelling. They promise improved robustness and flexibility and aim at a body-on-a-chip solution for comprehensive pharmaceutical in vitro studies.

Pre-validation of SENS-IS assay for in vitro skin sensitization of medical devices

According to ISO 10993-1:2018, the skin sensitization potential of all medical devices must be evaluated, and for this endpoint ISO 10993-10:2010 recommends the use of in vivo assays. The goal of the present study was to determine if the in vitro SENS-IS assay could be a suitable alternative to the current in vivo assays. The SENS-IS assay uses the Episkin Large and SkinEthic RHE reconstructed human epidermis models to evaluate marker genes. In our study, the SENS-IS assay correctly identified 13 sensitizers spiked in a non-polar solvent. In a subsequent analysis six medical device silicone samples previously impregnated with sensitizers were extracted with polar and non-polar solvents. The SENS-IS assay correctly identified five of these extracts, while a sixth extract, which contained the weak sensitizer phenyl benzoate, was classified as negative. However, when this extract was concentrated, or a longer exposure time was used, the assay was able to detect phenyl benzoate. The SENS-IS assay was transferred to a naïve laboratory which correctly identified sensitizers in six blinded silicone samples, including the one containing phenyl benzoate. In light of these results, we conclude that the SENS-IS assay is able to correctly identify the presence of sensitizers in medical devices extracts.

Role of Jagged1-mediated Notch Signaling Activation in the Differentiation and Stratification of the Human Limbal Epithelium

The Notch signaling pathway plays a key role in proliferation and differentiation. We investigated the effect of Jagged 1 (Jag1)-mediated Notch signaling activation in the human limbal stem/progenitor cell (LSC) population and the stratification of the limbal epithelium in vitro. After Notch signaling activation, there was a reduction in the amount of the stem/progenitor cell population, epithelial stratification, and expression of proliferation markers. There was also an increase of the corneal epithelial differentiation. In the presence of Jag1, asymmetric divisions were decreased, and the expression pattern of the polarity protein Par3, normally present at the apical-lateral membrane of basal cells, was dispersed in the cells. We propose a mechanism in which Notch activation by Jag1 decreases p63 expression at the basal layer, which in turn reduces stratification by decreasing the number of asymmetric divisions and increases differentiation.

Reconstructed Human EpidermisIn Vitro:An Alternative to Animal Testing

Various three-dimensional human skin models, in which the epidermis exhibits in vivo-like morphological and functional characteristics, have recently been developed. Such models are currently being used to study the development and physiology of the skin, the processes involved in wound healing, and the reactivity of skin to environmental and chemical insults. Since these models reproduce to a large extent the barrier function properties of normal human skin, they can be used for screening potential skin irritants. These substances can be applied topically and their irritant potential can be evaluated using various endpoints, such as the induction of tissue damage or the release of various pro-inflammatory mediators. Studies with human skin equivalents can therefore contribute to our knowledge of the basic biochemical mechanisms underlying irritant reactions, and can be used to understand the structural features of molecules which may be responsible for eliciting an irritant reaction. In addition”, the generation of epidermal equivalents populated with melanocytes, as well as keratinocytes, makes it possible to study the regulation of melanogenesis, melanocyte–keratinocyte interactions, and how these are affected by UV irradiation. Such a model can also be used for testing the phototoxic or photoprotective potentials of various compounds and sunscreens.

Alternative Methods for Skin Irritation Testing: The Current Status

The ECVAM Skin Irritation Task Force was established in November 1996, primarily to prepare a report on the current status of the development and validation of alternative tests for skin irritation and corrosion and, in particular, to identify any appropriate non-animal tests for predicting human skin irritation which were sufficiently well-developed to warrant ECVAM supporting their prevalidation/validation. The task force based its discussions around the proposed testing strategy for skin irritation/corrosion emanating from an OECD workshop held in January 1996. The following have been reviewed: a) structure-activity and structure-property relationships for skin corrosion and irritation; b) the use of pH and acid/alkaline reserve measurements in predicting skin corrosivity; c) in vitro tests for skin corrosion; d) in vitro tests for skin irritation (keratinocyte cultures, organ cultures, and reconstituted human skin models); and e) human patch tests for skin irritation. It was apparent that, although several promising candidate in vitro tests for skin irritation (for example, reconstituted human skin methods, and human and animal skin organ culture methods) were under development and evaluation, a test protocol, a preliminary prediction model and supporting data on different types of chemicals were only available for a method employing EpiDerm™. Thus, it is proposed that this EpiDerm test undergoes prevalidation during 1998. In addition, since it was felt preferable to be able to include other in vitro tests in such a prevalidation study, it is recommended that a “challenge” be set to anyone interested in taking part. This involves submitting data on ten test chemicals selected by the task force, obtained according to a standard protocol with a preliminary prediction model, for review by the task force by 31 May 1998.

Toxicological evaluation of exosomes derived from human adipose tissue-derived mesenchymal stem/stromal cells

Several studies report that the therapeutic mechanism of action of mesenchymal stem/stromal cells (MSCs) is mainly mediated by paracrine factors that are released from MSCs such as exosomes. Exosomes are nano-sized extracellular vesicles that are transferred to target cells for cell-to-cell communication. Although MSC-derived exosomes (MSC-exosomes) are suggested as novel cell-free therapeutics for various human diseases, evaluation studies for the safety and toxicity of MSC-exosomes are limited. The purpose of our study was to evaluate the toxicological profile, including skin sensitization, photosensitization, eye and skin irritation, and acute oral toxicity using exosomes derived from human adipose tissue-derived MSCs (ASC-exosomes) in accordance with the OECD guidelines and the principles of Good Laboratory Practice. The ASC-exosomes were classified as a potential non-sensitizer in the skin sensitization test, UN GHS no category in the eye irritation test, and as a skin non-irritant in the skin irritation test, and did not induce any toxicity in the phototoxicity test or in acute oral toxicity testing. Our findings are the first to suggest that ASC-exosomes are safe for use as a topical treatment, with no adverse effects in toxicological testing, and have potential application as a therapeutic agent, cosmetic ingredient, or for other biological uses.

Monitoring calcium-induced epidermal differentiation in vitro using multiphoton microscopy

SIGNIFICANCE

Research in tissue engineering and in vitro organ formation has recently intensified. To assess tissue morphology, the method of choice today is restricted primarily to histology. Thus novel tools are required to enable noninvasive, and preferably label-free, three-dimensional imaging that is more compatible with futuristic organ-on-a-chip models.

AIM

We investigate the potential for using multiphoton microscopy (MPM) as a label-free in vitro approach to monitor calcium-induced epidermal differentiation.

APPROACH

In vitro epidermis was cultured at the air-liquid interface in varying calcium concentrations. Morphology and tissue architecture were investigated using MPM based on visualizing cellular autofluorescence.

RESULTS

Distinct morphologies corresponding to epidermal differentiation were observed. In addition, Ca2  +  -induced effects could be distinguished based on the architectural differences in stratification in the tissue cultures.

CONCLUSIONS

Our study shows that MPM based on cellular autofluorescence enables visualization of Ca2  +  -induced differentiation in epidermal skin models in vitro. The technique has potential to be further adapted as a noninvasive, label-free, and real-time tool to monitor tissue regeneration and organ formation in vitro.

Structural and Biomechanical Characterization of a Scaffold-Free Skin Equivalent Model via Biophysical Methods

AIMS

Among in vitro skin models, the scaffold-free skin equivalent (SFSE), without exogenous material, is interesting for pharmacotoxicological studies. Our aim was to adapt in vivo biophysical methods to study the structure, thickness, and extracellular matrix of our in vitro model without any chemical fixation needed as for histology.

METHODS

We evaluated 3 batches of SFSE and characterized them by histology, transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and immunofluorescence. In parallel, we investigated 3 biophysical methods classically used for in vivo evaluation, optical coherence tomography (OCT), and laser scanning microscopy (LSM) imaging devices as well as the cutometer suction to study the biomechanical properties.

RESULTS

OCT allowed the evaluation of SFSE total thickness and its different compartments. LSM has a greater resolution enabling an evaluation at the cell scale and the orientation of collagen fibers. The viscoelasticity measurement by cutometry was possible on our thin skin model and might be linked with mature collagen bundles visible in TEM and LSM and with elastic fibers seen in immunofluorescence.

CONCLUSION

Our data demonstrated the simplicity and sensitivity of these different in vivo biophysical devices on our thin skin model. These noninvasive tools allow to study the morphology and the biomechanics of in vitro models.

Skin Toxicity Assessment of Silver Nanoparticles in a 3D Epidermal Model Compared to 2D Keratinocytes

Introduction

Increased use of silver nanoparticles (AgNPs) has raised concerns that AgNPs may induce toxic effects. In vitro studies of cell monolayers and in vivo studies have produced conflicting results. The inconsistency of these results has been mainly due to limitations of two-dimensional (2D) monolayer cell systems.

Methods

A three-dimensional (3D) epidermal model called EpiKutis^®, which exhibits good tissue viability and barrier function was developed. The cytotoxicity of AgNPs against EpiKutis was compared to that against 2D keratinocytes at equivalent AgNPs doses (0.035, 0.07, 0.14, 0.28, and 0.56 ng per cell). The amount and distribution of AgNPs in the 3D EpiKutis and 2D keratinocytes after exposure were determined. The toxic mechanisms of AgNPs, such as oxidative stress and production of pro-inflammatory cytokines, were investigated.

Results

The results demonstrated that cell viability was greater than 80% and lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) release did not increase even at the highest dose of AgNPs in EpiKutis. In contrast, treatment of 2D keratinocytes with AgNPs resulted in dose-dependent decrease in cell viability from 63% to 11%, and a dose-dependent increase in LDH release from 8% to 16%. Cytotoxicity of AgNPs in 2D keratinocytes was related to oxidative damage and inflammation, as evidenced by increased levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS), malondialdehyde (MDA), IL-1α, IL-6, and IL-8. In addition, levels of superoxide dismutase (SOD) were decreased. EpiKutis treated with AgNPs did not exhibit increased oxidative damage or inflammation, which may have been due to the barrier properties of the 3D structure, resulting in reduced penetration of AgNPs. At equivalent per cell doses, total silver penetration into EpiKutis was 0.9 ± 0.1%, and total silver penetration into 2D keratinocytes was 8.8 ± 0.6% detected by ICP-MS. The penetration and distribution of AgNPs in 2D keratinocytes were confirmed by the TEM-EDS analysis, which was not found in the 3D EpiKutis. These results showed that AgNPs penetrated EpiKutis to a lesser degree than they penetrated 2D keratinocytes, which suggested that EpiKutis exhibited significant barrier function.

Discussion

The results of this study showed that AgNP toxicity should be evaluated using 3D epidermal models, which may provide better estimates of in vivo conditions than 2D models. The EpiKutis model may be an ideal model for assessment of nanotoxicity.

Exogenous Keratinocyte Growth Factor Is Not Required for Pigmentation of Skin Substitutes with Three Isogeneic Cell Types

Engineered skin substitutes (ESS) containing human fibroblasts (hF) and human keratinocytes (hK) provide significant medical benefits for treatment of acute and chronic skin wounds, including, but not limited to, burns, burn scars, congenital skin lesions, and cutaneous ulcers. However, anatomic deficiencies, such as lack of pigment, can contribute to long-term morbidity, including hypopigmentation and reduced solar protection. To address the deficiency of hypopigmentation, ESS were populated sequentially with cultured hF, human melanocytes (hM), and hK to generate ESS with pigment (ESS-P). Constructs were incubated in media containing 0.0, 1.5, or 5.0 ng/mL keratinocyte growth factor (KGF), which promotes survival and differentiation of hM in ESS-P, and had media changed at 24 or 48 h intervals. ESS-P were evaluated in vitro for surface hydration, surface color, and distribution of hM. Proliferation was assessed by measuring incorporation of 5-bromo-2'-deoxyuridine into replicating DNA in basal epidermal cells. ESS-P from test conditions were grafted to immunodeficient mice, and were assessed over 12 weeks for pigmented area, pigment density, and distribution of hM in healed human grafts. The in vitro data showed differences among test groups, including increase in hydration of the epidermal surface with higher KGF, increase of surface pigmentation with 24 h media changes, increase of hM density with higher KGF and 24 h media changes, and time-dependent decrease of proliferation. At 12 weeks after grafting, differences among groups were found for pigment density, but not for distribution of hM or percentage of pigmented area. These differences demonstrate that a higher concentration of KGF (5 ng/mL) in the maturation medium of ESS-P and more frequent media changes (24 h interval) promote higher viability and hM differentiation of ESS-P before grafting, but are not required for full pigmentation (pigmented area, pigment density, hM distribution) of grafted wounds. Based on these results, reductions of the concentration of KGF (i.e., 1.5 ng/mL) in the maturation medium, and of the frequency of medium changes (48 h intervals) would be expected to support survival, continued replication, and restoration of skin color by hM in therapeutic transplantation of ESS-P. Impact Statement Restoration of skin color after traumatic injury affects personal identity and provides protection from exposure to solar radiation. Keratinocyte growth factor (KGF) and nutrient supply are known to regulate survival of melanocytes before transplantation in engineered skin substitutes with pigment (ESS-P). This report demonstrates that exogenous KGF is not required to restore skin color and that replacement of the nutrient medium at lower frequency (48 versus 24 h) does not inhibit development of skin color after melanocyte transplantation. These results offer new alternatives to conserve resources in fabrication of ESS-P and to maintain efficacy for restoration of skin color.

Notch Inhibition Prevents Differentiation of Human Limbal Stem/Progenitor Cells in vitro

Notch signaling has been shown to regulate the homeostasis and wound healing of the corneal epithelium. We investigated the effect of Notch inhibition in the human limbal stem/progenitor cells (LSCs) in vitro by using small molecules. Treatment of the LSCs with DAPT and SAHM1 reduced the proliferation rate and maintained the undifferentiated state of the LSCs in a concentration dependent manner. Stratification and differentiation of the corneal epithelium were not reduced after Notch inhibition, indicating that the function of the corneal basal cells is retained. Our findings suggest that Notch signaling plays a role in the proliferation and maintenance of LSCs.

Skin toxicology and 3Rs-Current challenges for public health protection

Driven by the fast paced development of complex test systems in vitro, mass spectrometry and omics, we finally have the tools to unravel the molecular events that underlie toxicological adversity. Yet, timely regulatory adaptation of these new tools continues to pose major challenges even for organs readily accessible such as skin. The reasons for this encompass a need for conservatism as well as the need of tests to serve an existing regulatory framework rather than to produce scientific knowledge. It is important to be aware of this in order to align regulatory skin toxicity with the 3R principles more readily. While most chemical safety testing is still based on animal data, regulatory frameworks have seen a strong push towards non-animal approaches. The endpoints corrosion, irritation, sensitisation, absorption and phototoxicity, for example, can now be covered in vitro with the corresponding test guidelines (TGs) being made available by the OECD. However, in vitro approaches tend to be more reductionist. Hence, a combination of several tests is usually preferable to achieve satisfying predictivity. Moreover, the test systems and their combined use need to be standardised and are therefore subject not only to validation but also to the ongoing development of so-called integrated approaches to testing and assessment (IATAs). Concomitantly, skin models are being refined to deliver the complexity required for increased applicability and predictivity. Given the importance of regulatory applicability for 3R-derived approaches to have a long-lasting impact, this review examines the state of regulatory implementation and perspectives, respectively.

The Use of Reconstructed Human Epidermis EPISKIN™ in the Assessment of Local Tolerance of Cosmetics and Chemicals

Models of reconstructed human skin provide useful tools for both basic research and evaluation of the safety and efficacy of dermato-cosmetological products. They can provide alternative models to replace human and animal experiments. However, their use requires confidence in their reproducibility and similarity of the results obtained as compared to in vivo experiments. Their morphology, architecture and properties must be as close as possible to human skin. The present paper reviews the results obtained on the EPISKIN™ model through characterisation of the model, reproducibility studies and multicentre studies or (pre)validations.

Depilatory chemical thioglycolate affects hair cuticle and cortex, degrades epidermal cornified envelopes and induces proliferation and differentiation responses in keratinocytes

Thioglycolate is a potent depilatory agent. In addition, it has been proposed to be useful as a penetration enhancer for transepidermal drug delivery. However, the effects on hair structure and stress responses it elicits in epidermal keratinocytes have not been fully characterised. We have used label-free confocal and fluorescence lifetime imaging supported by electron microscopy to demonstrate how thioglycolate damages hair cuticle cells by generating breakages along the endocuticle and leading to swelling of cortex cells. Maleimide staining of free SH-groups and a decrease in the average fluorescence lifetime of endogenous fluorophores demonstrate a specific change in protein structure in both hair cuticle and cortex. We found that the thioglycolate damages cornified envelopes isolated from the stratum corneum of the epidermis. However, thioglycolate-treated epidermal equivalent cultures recover within 48 hours, which highlights the reversibility of the damage. HaCaT keratinocytes respond to thioglycolate by increased proliferation, onset of differentiation and expression of the chaperone protein Hsp 70, but not Hsp 27. Up-regulation of involucrin can be blocked by an application of c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK) inhibitor, but the up-regulation of Hsp 70 takes place regardless of the presence of the JNK inhibitor.

Property characterization of reconstructed human epidermis equivalents, and performance as a skin irritation model

In recent years, in vitro skin models combining cell biology and tissue engineering have been developed in order to replace animal models for toxicological studies and to serve as research support to better understand skin biology. This study reports the development and characterization of a epidermal tissue equivalent meant to be used to develop and to evaluate the effect of applied cosmetic ingredients, and for alternative toxicological testing. This epidermis equivalent model was characterized relative to the morphological characteristics of short- and long-term maintained tissues by performing histological studies. We also studied the integrity of the epidermal barrier. Finally, with the goal of validating its use as a skin irritation test, we studied the irritation potential of 20 chemical references listed in OECD Test Guideline N°439 (In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method). In 2015, OECD officially published the updated version of the Validated Reference Method (VRM) that uses reconstructed human epidermis models for irritation testing, thus offering the possibility for proposed putative similar test methods to obtain a validation agreement through Performance Standards-based validation. In this study, we observed that the epidermal equivalent we developed showed similarities to human in vivo skin, based on the analyzed parameters. Moreover, its performances as a skin irritation test were similar to the ones described in the OECD Test Guideline N°439.