The science behind skin care: Moisturizers

Short-term skin reactions and changes in stratum corneum following different ways of facial sheet mask usage

BACKGROUND

The global facial mask market grows steadily at 8.5 % annually. However, prolonged use may lead to skin inflammation.

OBJECTIVE

To investigate how various mask types and wearing durations impact skin physiology and aquaporins3 (AQP3) expression in healthy subjects.

METHODS

We used a randomized controlled design to investigate the effects of three types of facial masks (pure water, hyaluronan, and bifida ferment lysate) and four different duration(5, 15, 25, and 40 min) on various skin parameters in volunteers, assessing moisture content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum, corneocyte size, and AQP3 expression before and after mask application, while also evaluating adverse reactions, discomfort, and noncompliance.

RESULT

Hydration and TEWL increased at first, then decreased. Sebum increased with all types of masks, particularly after 40 min. Vasodilation and AQP3 expression were linked to mask duration. Corneocyte sizes remained constant. The main adverse reactions were redness (10.71 %, n = 28) and dryness (57.14 %, n = 28), especially with pure water masks lasting over 25 min.

CONCLUSION

Short-term use of facial sheet masks (<25 min) benefits skin with improved hydration, reduced redness, and AQP3 activation, while prolonged use can lead to increased dryness and redness.

Liquid collagen from freshwater fish skin ameliorates hydration, roughness and elasticity in photo-aged skin: a randomized, controlled, clinical study

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Collagen is commonly used in diverse forms as a functional component in skincare products. On the other hand, the effects of collagen on human skin are controversial. Dietary collagen hydrolysates from freshwater Pangasius hypophthalmus fish skin ameliorated photo-aged skin of hairless mice. This study conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial to determine if liquid fish collagen (Collagen-Tripep20™, Tripep20) as a drink strengthens skin health and quality.

SUBJECTS/METHODS

In this clinical trial, 85 subjects aged 35-60 yrs were diagnosed with photo-aged skin. Eighty-five subjects were randomized to receive either Tripep20 (n = 44) or placebo (n = 41). Seventy-eight subjects fully participating for a 12-week period consumed 1,000 mg of Tripep20 (n = 41) or placebo (n = 37) in a 50-mL bottle as a daily drink. The intend-to-treat and per-protocol populations were 85 and 78, respectively. Skin hydration, wrinkles, and elasticity were assessed at 0 (baseline), 6, and 12 weeks during the study period.

RESULTS

Skin hydration in the Tripep20 group was significantly higher from 6 weeks (P < 0.001) than the baseline. After 12 weeks, the Crow's-feet visual score and skin roughness (Ra, Rq, and Rmax) were significantly improved in the Tripep20 group than in the placebo group (P < 0.05). Consuming liquid collagen Tripep20 greatly enhanced skin elasticity (Gross R2, Net R5, and Biological elasticity R7) in 6 weeks compared to the placebo group. The Tripep20 group showed a significant increase in skin elasticity from the baseline after 6 and 12 weeks (P < 0.001). Neither abnormal symptoms nor adverse events were encountered during the study period in subjects ingesting Tripep20 or placebo. The changes in parameters related to hematology and clinical chemistry were within the normal ranges.

CONCLUSION

Oral consumption of liquid collagen Tripep20 was safe and well-tolerated. The results of this study show that freshwater fish-derived liquid collagen Tripep20 can be used as a healthy functional food ingredient to improve skin moisturizing, anti-wrinkling, and elasticity in an aging population.

Indian Gooseberry and Barley Sprout Complex Prevent Oxidative Stress and Photoaging of the Skin in Ultraviolet B-Irradiated SHK-I Mice

This study investigated the protective effects of a complex of Indian gooseberry and barley sprout (IB complex) on oxidative stress and skin damage caused by ultraviolet B irradiation in SHK-I hairless mice. The study examined the impact of IB complex on skin hydration, wrinkle formation, and melanogenesis using enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay, real-time polymerase chain reaction, and western blot analysis. The IB complex reduced skin hydration loss and wrinkle formation, while also demonstrating enhanced antioxidant activities. The IB complex maintained skin hydration via upregulation of hyaluronic acid and ceramide synthesis, including the regulation of hyaluronic acid synthase, long-chain ceramide formation, dihydroceramide desaturase 1 activity, and type I collagen production. The IB complex prevented wrinkle formation via downregulating JNK and upregulating TGF-β pathways. Moreover, IB complex blocked melanin production via inhibition of protein kinase A, cAMP response element-binding protein, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor pathways. These results suggest that IB complex is a potential agent to protect the skin against photodamage caused by exposure to UVB radiation. The research protocols underwent approval from the Institutional Animal Care and Use Committee of Kyung Hee University (KHGASP-21-577), ensuring compliance with ethical standards.

Deep Learning Model for Cosmetic Gel Classification Based on a Short-Time Fourier Transform and Spectrogram

Cosmetics and topical medications, such as gels, foams, creams, and lotions, are viscoelastic substances that are applied to the skin or mucous membranes. The human perception of these materials is complex and involves multiple sensory modalities. Traditional panel-based sensory evaluations have limitations due to individual differences in sensory receptors and factors such as age, race, and gender. Therefore, this study proposes a deep-learning-based method for systematically analyzing and effectively identifying the physical properties of cosmetic gels. Time-series friction signals generated by rubbing the gels were measured. These signals were preprocessed through short-time Fourier transform (STFT) and continuous wavelet transform (CWT), respectively, and the frequency factors that change over time were distinguished and analyzed. The deep learning model employed a ResNet-based convolution neural network (CNN) structure with optimization achieved through a learning rate scheduler. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model outperforms the CWT-based 2D and 1D CNN models. The optimized STFT-based 2D CNN model also demonstrated robustness and reliability through k-fold cross-validation. This study suggests the potential for an innovative approach to replace traditional expert panel evaluations and objectively assess the user experience of cosmetics.

Development of solid lipid microparticles (SLMs) containing asiatic acid for topical treatment of acne: Characterization, stability, in vitro and in vivo anti-acne assessment

Solid lipid microparticles (SLMs) represent a promising approach for drug delivery in anti-acne applications. In this study, asiatic acid-loaded SLMs (AASLMs) were prepared by melt emulsification method in conjunction with freeze-drying. Comprehensive evaluations comprised particle size, %entrapment efficiency (%EE), %labeled amount (%LA), surface morphology, stability, %release, %skin permeation, and anti-acne activity. The AASLMs exhibited an average particle size ranging from 7.46 to 38.86 µm, with %EE and %LA falling within the range of 31.56 to 100.00 and 90.43 to 95.38, respectively. The AASLMs demonstrated a spherical shape under scanning electron microscopy, and maintained stability over a 3-month period. Notably, formulations with 10 % and 15 % cetyl alcohol stabilized with poloxamer-188 (specifically F6 and F12) displayed a minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) value of 75 mg/ml against Cutibacterium acnes. Furthermore, F12 exhibited a higher %release and %skin permeation compared to F6 over 24 h. In a single-blind clinical trial involving fifteen participants with mild-to-moderate acne, F12 showcased its potential not only in reducing porphyrin intensity and enhancing skin barriers but also in significantly improving skin hydration and brightness. However, further investigations with larger subject cohorts encompassing diverse age groups and genders are necessary to thoroughly establish the performance of the developed AASLMs.

Petroleum jelly: A comprehensive review of its history, uses, and safety

Petrolatum, also known as petroleum jelly, is a widely used topical agent, with a variety of uses in dermatology. Despite its popularity, many myths surround this ubiquitous dermatologic staple. This review details the history of petrolatum and how it is manufactured as well as how its biologic properties make it a great moisturizer. Additionally, data on its potential for flammability, allergenicity, and comedogenicity are detailed, dispelling misconceptions about petrolatum use around oxygen and as a cause of acne. The uses and benefits of petrolatum in dermatology are wide-ranging-a patch test instrument, a vehicle for medicated ointments, and a wound care essential. Given its ubiquitous presence, it is important for dermatologists to understand the history, safety profile, and myths surrounding this humble skincare staple.

Preparation and efficacy verification of three-dimensional printed partitioned multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask

OBJECTIVE

A partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask conforming to facial skin characteristics was prepared using three-dimensional (3D) printing technology.

METHODS

First, the hydrogel matrix and humectant of a 3D-printed gel for facial masks were screened, and three 3D-printed gels of arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid were prepared with whitening, wrinkle removal, and oil control functions, respectively. Skin irritation tests were performed on the gels. Physicochemical properties such as pH, heat and cold tolerance were evaluated. The efficacy of three 3D-printed gels was assessed by measuring melanin value, wrinkle depression score, and oil secretion. Finally, the facial mask model design and printing parameters were studied, and a partition multi-effect precision-care gel facial mask was printed in line with facial skin characteristics.

RESULTS

For the 3D-printed facial mask, the gel prescription with 2% hydroxyethyl cellulose gel as matrix and 7% glycerol as humectant was the best. The prepared 3D-printed gel did not irritate the human skin, and its physicochemical properties met the Chinese facial mask industry standard (QB/T2872-2017). We showed that three types of 3D-printed gels containing arbutin, hexapeptide, and salicylic acid could be applied to the corresponding parts of the face to solve different problems, such as facial skin dullness, wrinkles, and oil secretion. Therefore, according to facial physiological characteristics, the facial mask model was designed for the forehead and nasolabial fold, which needs to be anti-wrinkled; the cheek, which needs to be whitened; and the nose and chin, which need oil control. The optimal printing parameters were 0.26 mm nozzle diameter, 90 mm/s printing speed, 30% filling density, 140% wire extrusion ratio, and 0.25 mm layer height. Different skin care effects can be achieved using a three-nozzle printer to print arbutin, hexapeptide, or salicylic acid gel on the mask's forehead and nasolabial fold, cheek, and nose and chin, respectively.

CONCLUSION

The 3D-printed partition multi-effect care gel facial mask prepared according to the skin features of different parts of the face can overcome the problem of the single skincare effect of the mass-produced facial masks.

Current Approaches to Wound Repair in Burns: How far Have we Come From Cover to Close? A Narrative Review

Burn injuries are a significant global health concern, with more than 11 million people requiring medical intervention each year and approximately 180,000 deaths annually. Despite progress in health and social care, burn injuries continue to result in socioeconomic burdens for victims and their families. The management of severe burn injuries involves preventing and treating burn shock and promoting skin repair through a two-step procedure of covering and closing the wound. Currently, split-thickness/full-thickness skin autografts are the gold standard for permanent skin substitution. However, deep burns treated with split-thickness skin autografts may contract, leading to functional and appearance issues. Conversely, defects treated with full-thickness skin autografts often result in more satisfactory function and appearance. The development of tissue-engineered dermal templates has further expanded the scope of wound repair, providing scar reductive and regenerative properties that have extended their use to reconstructive surgical interventions. Although their interactions with the wound microenvironment are not fully understood, these templates have shown potential in local infection control. This narrative review discusses the current state of wound repair in burn injuries, focusing on the progress made from wound cover to wound closure and local infection control. Advancements in technology and therapies hold promise for improving the outcomes for burn injury patients. Understanding the underlying mechanisms of wound repair and tissue regeneration may provide new insights for developing more effective treatments in the future.

Skin Barrier Function Assessment: Electrical Impedance Spectroscopy Is Less Influenced by Daily Routine Activities Than Transepidermal Water Loss

BACKGROUND

Skin barrier function assessment is commonly done by measuring transepidermal water loss (TEWL). An important limitation of this method is the influence of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Electrical impedance spectroscopy (EIS) is a lesser-established method for skin barrier function assessment. Some influential factors have been described, but no guidelines exist regarding the standardization of these measurements.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the effect size of daily routine activities on TEWL and EIS, as well as their correlation with age and anatomical differences.

METHODS

Healthy participants (n=31) were stratified into three age groups (18-29, 30-49, and ≥50 years). In a climate-controlled room, EIS and TEWL measurements were performed on the left and right volar forearm and abdomen.

RESULTS

Body cream application decreased TEWL and EIS values after 15 and 90 minutes. Skin washing decreased TEWL for 15 minutes and EIS values for at least 90 minutes. TEWL was increased 5 minutes after moderate to intense exercise. Coffee intake increased TEWL on the abdomen after 60 minutes. TEWL and EIS values did not correlate with participants' age and no anatomical differences were observed. No correlation was observed between TEWL and EIS.

CONCLUSION

Body cream application and skin washing should be avoided at least 90 minutes prior to measurements of TEWL and EIS. Exercise and coffee intake should also be avoided prior to TEWL measurements. EIS may be a promising tool for skin barrier function assessment as it is less affected by daily routine activities than TEWL.

Effects of 1,3-propanediol associated, or not, with butylene glycol and/or glycerol on skin hydration and skin barrier function

OBJECTIVE

This study aimed to assess the effect of 1,3-propanediol at different concentrations (5%, 10%, or 15%), either applied alone or in combination with butylene glycol (BG) (5%) and/or glycerol (5%), on skin hydration and skin barrier function. The measurements were conducted using capacitance to determine skin hydration and trans epidermal water loss (TEWL) rates to evaluate skin barrier function.

METHODS

A total of 30 healthy female subjects participated in the study. Capacitance and TEWL measurements were conducted at multiple time points, including before application and at 15 min, 2 and 8 h after the humectants were applied to the forearms of the subjects. All the subjects provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The 1,3-propanediol in all concentrations and in all combinations (with BG and/or glycerol) increased skin hydration and improved skin barrier function 15 min, 2 and 8 h after application. Glycerol increased the hydration performance of 1,3-propanediol. The application of 1,3-propanediol at a concentration of 15%, either alone or in combination with other humectants, reduced the TEWL to a greater extent than lower concentrations of 1,3-propanediol. Furthermore, the addition of glycerol to 1,3-propanediol 15% improved the skin barrier and reduced TEWL when compared with 1,3-propanediol alone and with the combination of 1,3-propanediol + BG.

CONCLUSION

The humectants significantly improved skin hydration and reduced TEWL throughout the 8-h time course. The increase in 1,3-propanediol concentration, as well as its combination with glycerol, provided a greater benefit to the skin, improving both hydration and the skin barrier function.

Development and Evaluation of a Novel Anti-Ageing Cream Based on Hyaluronic Acid and Other Innovative Cosmetic Actives

The importance of incorporating hyaluronic acid (HA) as a cosmetic ingredient in skin care formulations emerged lately because the amount of HA naturally found in the epidermis decreases with age, and when applied to the skin through cosmetic products, it confers hydration and reduces the appearance of wrinkles. Currently, the diversity of cosmetic products for mature skin and the use of various and innovative active ingredients supporting their anti-ageing effect represent ample proof that the cosmetic industry is currently relying on these actives. The main objective of this study was the development of an anti-ageing formulation, incorporating HA and different other active ingredients. The developed formulation contains a novel complex of natural waxes, with an essential role in the restoration of the skin's hydro-lipid barrier, in combination with innovative active ingredients-like low-molecular hyaluronic acid (LMW-HA), sodium hyaluronate (NaHA), ectoin, gold, and an anti-ageing botanical complex-contributing to optimal skin hydration specifically designed to reduce the visible signs of ageing. An important objective was represented by the skin compatibility and topography assessment after 28 days (D28) of regular application of the developed cream. Stability testing, physicochemical characteristics, and microbiological control, including efficacy testing of the used preservative (challenge test) were performed for the cosmetic formulation. In silico approaches were applied to demonstrate the safety of cosmetic-related substances and the risk assessment of the cosmetic formulation. Safety and instrumental evaluation were performed to demonstrate the skin tolerance-the compatibility and the efficacy, respectively-of the developed anti-ageing cream. As result, quality control of the developed cosmetic formulation evidenced an appropriate cosmetic preparation with desirable aspect and adequate physicochemical characteristics. The concentrations of restricted ingredients like preservatives and UV filters were in accordance with those recommended by the Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 and so were considered to be safe. Additionally, according to the margin of safety (MoS) calculation, cosmetic ingredients incorporated in the developed formulation could be considered safe. The developed formulation was very well tolerated, and wrinkle depth and length in the periorbital area were significantly reduced after 28-day cosmetic treatment. Subjects' assessment questionnaires revealed self-perceived benefits referring to the cosmetic qualities and efficacy of the anti-ageing cream. This study confirmed the skin tolerance and efficacy of the new complex anti-ageing cream incorporating HA, microencapsulated sodium hyaluronate, ectoin, and a botanical extract. The formulated cosmetic product could serve as a daily care for mature skin to alleviate the effects of skin ageing.

Lipopeptides development in cosmetics and pharmaceutical applications: A comprehensive review

Lipopeptides are surface active, natural products of bacteria, fungi and green-blue algae origin, having diverse structures and functionalities. In analogy, a number of chemical synthesis techniques generated new designer lipopeptides with desirable features and functions. Lipopetides are self-assembly guided, supramolecular compounds which have the capacity of high-density presentation of the functional epitopes at the surface of the nanostructures. This feature contributes to their successful application in several industry sectors, including food, feed, personal care, and pharmaceutics. In this comprehensive review, the novel class of ribosomally synthesized lipopeptides is introduced alongside the more commonly occuring non-ribosomal lipopeptides. We highlight key representatives of the most researched as well as recently described lipopeptide families, with emphasis on structural features, self-assembly and associated functions. The common biological, chemical and hybrid production routes of lipopeptides, including prominent analogues and derivatives are also discussed. Furthermore, genetic engineering strategies aimed at increasing lipopeptide yields, diversity and biological activity are summarized and exemplified. With respect to application, this work mainly details the potential of lipopeptides in personal care and cosmetics industry as cleansing agents, moisturizer, anti-aging/anti-wrinkling, skin whitening and preservative agents as well as the pharmaceutical industry as anitimicrobial agents, vaccines, immunotherapy, and cancer drugs. Given that this review addresses human applications, we conclude on the topic of safety of lipopeptide formulations and their sustainable production.

Nanomedicine-fortified cosmeceutical serums for the mitigation of psoriasis and acne

Cosmetics have a long history of use for regenerative and therapeutic purposes that are appealing to both genders. The untapped potential of nanotechnology in cosmeceuticals promises enhanced efficacy and addresses the issues associated with conventional cosmetics. In the field of cosmetics, the incorporation of nanomedicine using various nanocarriers such as vesicle and solid lipid nanoparticles significantly enhances product effectiveness and promotes satisfaction, especially in tackling prevalent skin diseases. Moreover, vesicle-fortified serum is known for high skin absorption with the capacity to incorporate and deliver various therapeutics. Additionally, nano-embedded serum-based cosmeceuticals hold promise for treating various skin disorders, including acne and psoriasis, heralding potential therapeutic advancements. This review explores diverse nanotechnology-based approaches for delivering cosmetics with maximum benefits.

Vaginal Laser Treatment for the Genitourinary Syndrome of Menopause in Breast Cancer Survivors: A Narrative Review

Vulvovaginal atrophy (VVA) is a chronic condition resulting from reduced estrogen levels during menopause. The North American Menopause Society and the International Society for the Study of Women's Sexual Health suggested the term "genitourinary syndrome of menopause" (GSM) to indicate the broader aspects of VVA. Breast cancer treatments, such as chemotherapy and endocrine therapy, can induce early and abrupt menopausal symptoms, including GSM, which negatively affects sexual function and the quality of life of the survivors. Vaginal laser therapy has emerged as a safe and effective option for the management of GSM in breast cancer survivors (BCSs). Two main types of lasers, the non-ablative erbium:YAG laser and fractional microablative CO2 vaginal laser, have been evaluated for GSM treatment. While there are few randomized controlled trials (RCTs) on the subject of BCSs, a wealth of prospective and retrospective studies have highlighted the beneficial effects of vaginal laser therapy on the symptoms of VVA, vaginal health, sexual function, and overall quality of life. More comprehensive research is essential to confirm its enduring effectiveness and safety, with a focus on conducting standardized and meticulously controlled investigations. This study is a narrative review that summarizes clinical trials ranging from the earliest to the most recent ones on laser treatment for GSM in BCSs.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

Effects of oral intake fruit or fruit extract on skin aging in healthy adults: a systematic review and Meta-analysis of randomized controlled trials

Background

In recent years, oral various fruits or supplements of fruits natural extracts have been reported to have significant anti-aging effects on the skin (1, 2), However, despite many studies on this topic, there is often no clear evidence to support their efficacy and safety. In this paper, we present a comprehensive review and Meta-analysis of the evidence for the safety and efficacy of oral fruits and fruits extracts in improving skin aging.

Methods

Four databases, Pubmed, Embase, Web of Science, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL), were searched for relevant literature from 2000-01 to 2023-03. Seven randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of fruit intake or fruit extracts associated with anti-skin aging were screened for Meta-analysis.

Results

Compared to placebo, oral intake of fruit or fruit extracts showed significant statistical differences in skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL), with a significant improvement in skin hydration and a significant decrease in TEWL. No significant statistical difference was observed in minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity (R2), or wrinkle depth, and no evidence of significant improvement in skin condition was observed.

Conclusion

Meta-analysis results suggest that consume administration of fruits or fruit extracts significantly enhances skin hydration and reduces transcutaneous water loss, but there is insufficient evidence to support other outcome recommendations, including minimal erythema dose (MED), overall skin elasticity(R2), and wrinkle depth.

Systematic Review Registration

PROSPERO (york.ac.uk), identifier CRD42023410382.

Bioprospecting the Skin Microbiome: Advances in Therapeutics and Personal Care Products

Bioprospecting is the discovery and exploration of biological diversity found within organisms, genetic elements or produced compounds with prospective commercial or therapeutic applications. The human skin is an ecological niche which harbours a rich and compositional diversity microbiome stemming from the multifactorial interactions between the host and microbiota facilitated by exploitable effector compounds. Advances in the understanding of microbial colonisation mechanisms alongside species and strain interactions have revealed a novel chemical and biological understanding which displays applicative potential. Studies elucidating the organismal interfaces and concomitant understanding of the central processes of skin biology have begun to unravel a potential wealth of molecules which can exploited for their proposed functions. A variety of skin-microbiome-derived compounds display prospective therapeutic applications, ranging from antioncogenic agents relevant in skin cancer therapy to treatment strategies for antimicrobial-resistant bacterial and fungal infections. Considerable opportunities have emerged for the translation to personal care products, such as topical agents to mitigate various skin conditions such as acne and eczema. Adjacent compound developments have focused on cosmetic applications such as reducing skin ageing and its associated changes to skin properties and the microbiome. The skin microbiome contains a wealth of prospective compounds with therapeutic and commercial applications; however, considerable work is required for the translation of in vitro findings to relevant in vivo models to ensure translatability.

The Radical Scavenging Activities and Anti-Wrinkle Effects of Soymilk Fractions Fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 and Their Derived Peptides

Soybean-derived peptides exert several beneficial effects in various experimental models. However, only a few studies have focused on the radical scavenging and anti-wrinkle effects of soymilk-derived peptides produced via different processes, such as fermentation, enzymatic treatment, and ultrafiltration. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the radical scavenging and antiwrinkle effects of soymilk fractions produced using these processes. We found that 50SFMKUF5, a 5 kDa ultrafiltration fraction fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 after flavourzyme treatment, exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay as well as potent anti-wrinkle effects assessed by type 1 procollagen production and tumor necrosis factor-α production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-treated human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. To identify potential bioactive peptides, candidate peptides were synthesized, and their anti-wrinkle effects were assessed. APEFLKEAFGVN (APE), palmitoyl-APE, and QIVTVEGGLSVISPK peptides were synthesized and used to treat UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes, and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F1 melanoma cells. Among these peptides, Pal-APE exerted the strongest effect. Our results highlight the potential of soymilk peptides as anti-aging substances.

Study of Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen and Collagen-like Products in a Tri-Layered Chitosan Membrane to Test Anti-Aging Skin Properties

The use of animal testing in the cosmetic industry is already prohibited in more than 40 countries, including those of the EU. The pressure for it to be banned worldwide in the future is increasing, so the need for animal alternatives is of great interest today. In addition, using animals and humans in scientific research is ethically reprehensible. This study aimed to prove some of the anti-aging properties of elastin (EL), hydrolyzed collagen (HC), and two vegan collagen-like products (Veg Col) in a tri-layered chitosan membrane that was ionically crosslinked with sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP). In the first approach, as a way of representing different layers of a biological system, such as the epidermis and the two dermis sublayers, EL, HC, or Veg Col were independently introduced into the two inner layers (2L_(i+b)). Their effects were compared with those of their introduction into three layers (3L). Different experiments were performed on the membrane to test its elasticity, hydration, moisture retention, and pore reduction at different concentrations of EL, HC, and Veg Col, and the results were normalized vs. a blank membrane. This new alternative to animal or human testing can be suitable for proving certain efficacy claims for active ingredients or products in the pharmaceutical, nutritional, and cosmetic fields.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Antioxidants for improved skin appearance: Intracellular mechanism, challenges and future strategies

Recent advances in molecular and biochemical processes relevant to the skincare field have led to the development of novel ingredients based on antioxidants that can improve skin health and youthfulness. Considering the plethora of such antioxidants and the many implications for the skin's appearance, this review focuses on describing the critical aspects of antioxidants, including cosmetic functions, intracellular mechanisms and challenges. In particular, specialized substances are suggested for the treatment of each skin condition, such as skin ageing, skin dehydration and skin hyperpigmentation, which treatments can maximize effectiveness and avoid side effects during skin care processes. In addition, this review proposes advanced strategies that either already exists in the cosmetic market or should be developed to improve and optimize cosmetic' beneficial effects.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) includes several compounds in the stratum corneum (SC), among them, urocanic acid (UCA). Ultraviolet (UV) exposure turns the trans-UCA of the SC into its cis isomer. We investigated the impact of a topical emollient emulsion treatment on the UCA isomers of the SC exposed to artificial UV stress. Aliquots of emollient emulsion were applied in healthy subjects for 2 h on delimited areas of the volar forearm, then, the SC was removed by tape stripping. Tapes were irradiated in a solar simulator chamber and a high performance liquid chromatograph was used to quantify UCA isomers from stripped SC extract. The amount of both UCA isomers were almost twice higher in the SC treated with the emollient emulsion. We also observed that the UV irradiation elevated the amount of the cis/trans UCA ratio on the SC (non-treated and treated), suggesting that the emollient sample was not able to avoid the UCA isomerization. The in vivo tests corroborated with the UCA data obtained ex vivo, since we found an increase in the superficial skin hydration with respective reduction of the TEWL, probably occurring by the occlusion performed by the emollient emulsion containing 15.0% w/w of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

User Experience in Cosmetics: Perception Analysis Regarding the Use of an Anti-Aging Moisturizer

One of the most important characteristics of aging skin is dehydration, which is why the use of moisturizing products is very important, especially with increasing age. Thus, the user’s experience when using a product is interesting for the companies to develop specific cosmetics not only considering the physiological needs of each skin, but also according to the preference of a group if there is any. For this, a moisturizer was developed, containing an antioxidant active, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, whose sensory characteristics were evaluated by 33 Brazilian women between 30 and 60 years old. The results showed that the formulation was well accepted by all subjects, regardless of their age group, initial hydration, or the presence of visible signs of skin aging. It is suggested that the presence of the active ingredient in different concentrations caused a different perception of the formula for specific attributes such as the aqueous residue, film formation, and the feelings of oiliness and stickiness to the skin after application. These results suggest that the perception of the sensory characteristics of the product was more related to the nature and proportion of the compounds than to the age of the subjects.

In a Preliminary Study on Human Subjects, a Cosmetic Cream Containing a Harungana madagascariensis Plant Extract Induces Similar Anti-Aging Effects to a Retinol-Containing Cream

Retinoids are the most effective anti-aging ingredients. Yet, their use can result in adverse reactions. Even bakuchiol, a natural functional analog, can lead to contact dermatitis. We previously showed that a Harungana madagascariensis (Lam. ex Poir.) plant extract (HME) presents retinol-like properties in vitro. Therefore, we performed a preliminary analysis of the anti-aging potential of a cream containing HME on 46 subjects. The participants applied a HME cream on half of their face and one forearm. The effects induced were compared to those produced by a retinol cream applied to the contralateral side. Clinical evaluations indicate that the two creams rapidly (28 days) improve wrinkles underneath the eyes, ptosis, color homogeneity, smoothness, plumpness, firmness, and elasticity of the facial skin. The improvement of crow's feet is only significant after 56 days. For all clinical signs, the effects of both creams are indistinguishable. Instrumental measurements of silicon replica from the eye contour region indicate that the wrinkle surface reduction is already noticeable after 28 days with the HME and retinol cream, while it takes 56 days to have a significant depth decrease. Only the retinol cream improves wrinkle length after 56 days. Ultrasound assessment of forearm skin revealed that the HME cream improves superficial dermis density as early as 28 days with further improvement at day 56, timepoint at which improvement is at the limit of significance with the retinol cream. These preliminary results indicate that HME has similar in vivo functional properties to retinol for reducing the severity of aging signs. Future works, including a bona fide clinical study, are needed to confirm these findings.

Evaluation of a new connected portable camera for the analysis of skin microrelief and the assessment of the effect of skin moisturisers

BACKGROUND

Silicone replicas and non-contact methods are effective methods to analyse the micrometric scale of the skin microrelief. Yet, they imply data capture in research facilities. The capabilities of a new connected portable camera were evaluated to analyse microrelief under nomadic conditions, also studying the effect of moisturisers.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

3D depth maps were constructed using shape-from-shading algorithms. Roughness heterogeneity (Spa) was computed, and skin profiles were extracted to calculate roughness amplitude (Ra, Rq), as well as furrows/plateaus characteristics. Validation of the connected camera was performed on tanned cowhide leather and on the inner forearm skin of a single subject. The forearms of 18 subjects (23-60 years old) were also evaluated. While living their regular life, they self-performed triplicate acquisitions at various times. The effects of a placebo and of cream containing moisturisers-saccharide isomerate, urea or xylitylglucoside-anhydroxylitol-xylitol-were investigated, using untreated control skin as a reference.

RESULTS

Validation of the device on leather and forearm skin shows high repeatability. The 18 subjects show the known correlation between age and changes in microrelief. While testing formulas, 8 h after a single application, all decreased Spa (-1.6/-2.1 folds). Only saccharide isomerate and xylitylglucoside-anhydroxylitol-xylitol decreased Ra (-2.4/-2.8 folds). The sectional area of plateaus was reduced from -1.5 (urea) to -2.1 folds (xylitylglucoside-anhydroxylitol-xylitol). The height of plateaus is also decreased by all moisturisers, from -1.5 (urea) to -2.1 folds (xylitylglucoside-anhydroxylitol-xylitol).

CONCLUSION

This novel camera device enables microrelief analysis under nomadic conditions, allowing monitoring its changes along the day and upon moisturisers' application.

[Aspects of sustainability of topical therapy]

BACKGROUND

Topical compounds are an important treatment option in dermatology. Many ingredients and packaging do not yet sufficiently fulfill sustainable criteria.

OBJECTIVES

This article aims to provide a compact overview of sustainability criteria of topical compounds and packaging.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Based on a selective literature search and personal experience, common ingredients and packaging of topical preparations are summarized.

RESULTS

Topical preparations often contain mineral oils, acrylates, silicones and polyethylene glycols (PEG), which show poor biodegradability and may accumulate in the environment. As an alternative to these non-renewable substances, plant-based fats, oils, and waxes can be used. Biopolymers such as plant-based gum, agar-agar, pectin, and biologically produced hyaluronic acid are an alternative to plastic polymers. The environmental footprint of glass as packaging material is overestimated. Currently, plastics and aluminum may be preferable when recycled correctly.

CONCLUSION

The production of topical formulations without using mineral oils, silicones, acrylates, and PEGs is technically challenging. A sustainable packaging material that fulfills all relevant functionalities is not yet available. Packaging should meet high requirements regarding ecological, economic, and social factors. Better performance with respect to new opportunities in recycling and waste management should be incorporated. Overall, the legislative authorities should provide relevant incentives for more sustainable topical compounds and packaging.

The Assessment of Skin Homeostasis Changes after Using Different Types of Excipients in Healthy Individuals

Excipients are used as vehicles for topical treatments; however, there are not many studies that evaluate the impact of different excipients themselves. The aim of this research is to assess skin homeostasis changes in healthy individuals after using water/oil (W/O), oil/water (O/W), Beeler base, foam and Vaseline excipients. A within-person randomized trial was conducted that included healthy individuals without previous skin diseases. Skin barrier function parameters, including stratum corneum hydration (SCH), transepidermal water loss (TEWL), pH, temperature, erythema, melanin and elasticity (R0, R2, R5 and R7), were measured on the volar forearm before and after using each excipient. Sixty participants were included in the study, with a mean age of 32 years. After applying w/o excipient erythema decreased by 25 AU, (p < 0.001) and elasticity increased by 6%. After using the o/w excipient, erythema decreased by 39.36 AU (p < 0.001) and SCH increased by 6.85 AU (p = 0.009). When applying the Beeler excipient, erythema decreased by 41.23 AU (p < 0.001) and SCH increased by 15.92 AU (p < 0.001). Foam and Vaseline decreased TEWL and erythema. Excipients have a different impact on skin barrier function. Knowing the effect of excipients on the skin could help to develop new topical treatments and help specialists to choose the best excipient according to the pathology.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Targeting Multiple Hallmarks of Skin Aging: Preclinical and Clinical Efficacy of a Novel Growth Factor-Based Skin Care Serum

INTRODUCTION

The aging process involves numerous biological mechanisms that have been characterized and proposed as the "hallmarks of aging." Targeting the processes and pathways related to these hallmarks of aging that cause and promote skin aging could provide anti-aging benefits. A novel topical growth factor-based skin care serum (A+) was developed using human fibroblast conditioned media. This study aimed to assess the effects of A+ on four hallmarks of aging and its clinical efficacy in skin rejuvenation in subjects with moderate to severe overall facial photodamage.

METHODS

Preclinical studies included immunohistochemistry in human ex vivo skin, and gene expression analysis in human 3D skin models. A 24-week, vehicle placebo-controlled study, including FaceQ patient-reported outcomes and skin biopsy analysis, was performed to assess clinical efficacy and tolerability.

RESULTS

Treatment with A+ resulted in reduced expression of cell senescence biomarker H2A.J and upregulation of genes associated with proteasome, autophagy, stemness, and intercellular communication. Clinical assessments showed A+ provided significantly greater reductions in sagging, coarse lines/wrinkles, fine lines/wrinkles, overall photodamage, and overall hyperpigmentation compared with placebo. Subjects felt they appeared younger-looking, reporting a median decrease in self-perceived age of 6 years after 12 weeks of use. Decreased levels of H2A.J and increased expression of key dermal extracellular matrix and epidermal barrier components, including collagen and elastin, were observed in skin biopsy samples.

CONCLUSION

The present study shows for the first time the potential effects of a topical growth factor-based cosmeceutical on cellular processes related to four hallmarks of aging (cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, stem cell exhaustion, and altered intercellular communication) to help delay the aging process and restore aged skin. A+ targets the biological mechanisms underlying the aging process itself and stimulates skin regeneration, resulting in rapid and significant clinical improvements.

A Green Tea Containing Skincare System Improves Skin Health and Beauty in Adults: An Exploratory Controlled Clinical Study

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.

A Review of Moisturizing Additives for Atopic Dermatitis

Atopic dermatitis, the most common form of eczema, is a chronic, relapsing inflammatory skin condition that occurs with dry skin, persistent itching, and scaly lesions. This debilitating condition significantly compromises the patient’s quality of life due to the intractable itching and other associated factors such as disfigurement, sleeping disturbances, and social stigmatization from the visible lesions. The treatment mainstay of atopic dermatitis involves applying topical glucocorticosteroids and calcineurin inhibitors, combined with regular use of moisturizers. However, conventional treatments possess a certain degree of adverse effects, which raised concerns among the patients resulting in non-adherence to treatment. Hence, the modern use of moisturizers to improve barrier repair and function is of great value. One of the approaches includes incorporating bioactive ingredients with clinically proven therapeutic benefits into dermocosmetics emollient. The current evidence suggests that these dermocosmetics emollients aid in the improvement of the skin barrier and alleviate inflammation, pruritus and xerosis. We carried out a critical and comprehensive narrative review of the literature. Studies and trials focusing on moisturizers that include phytochemicals, natural moisturizing factors, essential fatty acids, endocannabinoids, and antioxidants were identified by searching electronic databases (PubMed and MEDLINE). We introduce the current knowledge on the roles of moisturizers in alleviating symptoms of atopic dermatitis. We then further summarize the science and rationale of the active ingredients in dermocosmetics and medical device emollients for treating atopic dermatitis. Finally, we highlight the limitations of the current evidence and future perspectives of cosmeceutical research on atopic dermatitis.

From decoding the perception of tightness to a clinical proof of soothing effects derived from natural ingredients in a moisturizer

OBJECTIVE

To decode the feeling of skin tightness after application of a cosmetic product and how to soothe this discomfort. To pursue this aim, we considered the ingredient's effect on stratum corneum (SC) biomechanics to differentiate between consumers prone to tightness from those that are not and correlate these effects with mechanoreceptor activation.

METHODS

In vivo clinical trials were used to assess the tightness perception dichotomy between groups of Caucasian women; in vitro experiments were used to measure the mechanical stresses induced in the SC after cleanser and moisturizer application; and in silico simulations were used to illustrate how the measured mechanical stresses in the SC result in the development of strains at the depth of cutaneous mechanoreceptors, triggering tightness perceptual responses.

RESULTS

Before any cream application, women prone to tightness tend to have a more rigid SC than their less sensitive counterparts, however cleanser application increases SC stiffness in all women. Surprisingly, no correlation was found between tightness perception and hydration measurements by the Corneometer or barrier function, as evaluated by transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Self-declared tightness and dryness scores were strongly associated with a self-described sensitive skin. After application of the optimized moisturizing formula, Osmoskin® containing natural waxes with good filming properties, consumers report a strong decrease in tightness and dryness perception. These results match with laboratory experiments where the cleanser was shown to increase SC drying stresses by 34%, while subsequent application of Osmoskin® decreased stresses by 48%. Finite element modeling (FEM), using experimental results as input, elucidates the differences in perception between the two groups of women. It makes clear that Osmoskin® changes the mechanical status of the stratum corneum, producing strains in underlying epidermis that activates multiple cutaneous mechano-receptors at a level correlated with the self-perceived comfort.

CONCLUSION

Integration of the in vivo, in vitro, and in silico approaches provides a novel framework for fully understanding how skin tightness sensations form and propagate, and how these sensations can be alleviated through the design of an optimized moisturizer.

Plant and Herbal Extracts as Ingredients of Topical Agents in the Prevention and Treatment Radiodermatitis: A Systematic Literature Review

Background: The use of herbal extracts as the source of antioxidant substances capable of neutralizing free radicals and providing protection from ionizing radiation appears to be an alternative therapy for radiodermatitis. As concerns the prevention and treatment of side effects, a lot of recommendations are based on proper experience of radiotherapy centers. We summarize recent research aiming at reducing radiation-induced skin injuries by use of proper skin care, using topical preparations with herbal extracts including onco-cosmetics. Methods: This article is limited to a critical analysis of scientific and professional literature. It concerns preparations in different physicochemical forms, e.g., gels, emulsions, ointments. We stress the connection between the type of applied skin care (type of preparation, its composition, the dose), the properties of the herbal extract and the evaluation of its efficiency in preventing and treating radiation reaction on skin. Conclusions: Herbal extracts can be added to recipes because they are part of a category of cosmeceutical supplements and can be introduced into preparations without prescription. The effectiveness evaluation for herbal extracts in radiotherapy is not an easy task since there are no strict guidelines. Studies should be preceded by the analysis of herbal extracts and recipe in terms of physicochemical, dermatological and performance characteristics.

A Review of Moisturizers; History, Preparation, Characterization and Applications

Moisturizers are one of the most widely used preparations in cosmetics and have been extensively used to soften the skin for consumers. Moisturizers work effectively in combating dry skin which may cause pain, tightness, itch, stinging, and/or tingling. The aim of this review is to evaluate published studies on the history, ingredients, preparation processes, characteristics, uses, and applications of moisturizers. Moisturizers bridge the gap between medicine and consumer goods by being used to make the skin more beautiful and healthy. In the future, in moisturizer therapy, the capacity to adapt specific agents to specific dermatological demands will be crucial. Cosmetically, moisturizers make the skin smooth by the mechanism of increasing the water content in the stratum corneum, hence exerting its most vital action, which is moisturizing action and maintaining a normal skin pH.

Effectiveness of Dietary Supplement for Skin Moisturizing in Healthy Adults: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials

Background

The dietary supplement industry offers many oral cosmetics that purportedly assist in skin moisturization often with unclear evidence supporting efficacy and safety. To update the accessible proofs pertaining to the safety and effectiveness of oral dietary supplements to facilitate skin moisturizing via an all-around review and meta-analysis.

Methods

Three on-line databases [Pubmed, Embase, and Cochrane Library (CENTRAL)] were retrieved from January 2000 to November 2021. An overall 66 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) of skin care were recognized. Meta-analysis was performed for dietary supplements with four or more available research.

Results

Oral collagen or ceramide resulted in a statistically significant increase in skin hydration and a decrease in transepidermal water loss (TEWL) compared to placebo. No benefits regarding the improvement of skin conditions in terms of water content and TEWL were observed for lactic acid bacteria or Lactobacillus fermented foods. A statistically significant and positive effect on skin hydration was observed for both hyaluronan and procyanidin, with an unknown effect on TEWL due to insufficient RCTs. There was a non-significant improvement in the water content of stratum corneum for astaxanthin based on subgroup analyses. Among the dietary supplements trialed in ≤ 3 RCTs, the judgment regarding their effects on skin moisturizing was prevented by inconsistent conclusions as well as insufficient research. All food supplements were safe throughout the research (normally ≤ 24 weeks).

Conclusion

Oral dietary supplements, including collagen, ceramides, hyaluronan, and procyanidin, were proven to be effective for skin moisturization. At present, for skin moisturization, the proofs supporting the recommendation of other dietary supplements, such as lactic acid bacteria and astaxanthin, are insufficient.

Systematic Review Registration

http://www.crd.york.ac.uk/PROSPERO/ identifier CRD42021290818.

Anti-Wrinkle Effect of BB-1000: A Double-Blind, Randomized Controlled Study

Skin aging usually results from intrinsic or extrinsic stress. Photodamage promotes skin damage and stimulates the skin, manifesting as wrinkles, dryness, roughness, and loss of elasticity. We have previously found that blackberry (Rubus fruticosus B) fermented by Lactobacillus plantarum JBMI F5, designated BB-1000, showed an in vitro and in vivo anti-skin-aging activity. In the present study, we have further evaluated the anti-aging effect of BB-1000 via a randomized, double-blind, and placebo-controlled clinical trial. The trial included 102 volunteers aged 35 to 59 years who have dry skin and wrinkles. Subjects took BB-1000 or a placebo orally at 800 mg/day for 12 weeks. Skin hydration and degree of wrinkles around the eyes were measured at weeks 6 and 12. Skin hydration had no significant effect in both groups at weeks 6 and 12. Otherwise, volunteers in the BB-1000 group had a significant reduction in eye wrinkle grade at week 12. These findings suggest that BB-1000 may be considered a candidate anti-aging agent for preventing skin wrinkles as a nutricosmetic agent.

Effects of Sphingomyelin-Containing Milk Phospholipids on Skin Hydration in UVB-Exposed Hairless Mice

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) generated by ultraviolet (UV) exposure cause skin barrier dysfunction, which leads to dry skin. In this study, the skin moisturizing effect of sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids in UV-induced hairless mice was evaluated. Hairless mice were irradiated with UVB for eight weeks, and milk phospholipids (50, 100, and 150 mg/kg) were administered daily. Milk phospholipids suppressed UV-induced increase in erythema and skin thickness, decreased transepidermal water loss, and increased skin moisture. Milk phospholipids increased the expression of filaggrin, involucrin, and aquaporin3 (AQP3), which are skin moisture-related factors. Additionally, hyaluronic acid (HA) content in the skin tissue was maintained by regulating the expression of HA synthesis- and degradation-related enzymes. Milk phospholipids alleviated UV-induced decrease in the expression of the antioxidant enzymes superoxidase dismutase1 and 2, catalase, and glutathione peroxidase1. Moreover, ROS levels were reduced by regulating heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), an ROS regulator, through milk phospholipid-mediated activation of nuclear factor erythroid-2-related factor 2 (Nrf2). Collectively, sphingomyelin-containing milk phospholipids contributed to moisturizing the skin by maintaining HA content and reducing ROS levels in UVB-irradiated hairless mice, thereby, minimizing damage to the skin barrier caused by photoaging.

The impacts of sun protection and skin care habits in the biophysical and morphological properties of young men skin

BACKGROUND

Previous studies have demonstrated that UVB radiation may cause changes in the epidermal permeability barrier and in the stratum corneum hydration. It is also well known that sun exposure causes erythema, skin cancer and other physiologic alterations. Furthermore, because of the cultural barrier, men usually apply less sunscreen.

AIMS

The objective of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic use and sun protection habits of young men, correlating their lifestyle with the biophysical and morphological skin characteristics, as well as to study how skin unprotected sun exposure can affect these features even in young people.

PATIENTS/METHODS

60 participants between 18 and 28 years old were divided into two groups: with photoprotection habits (PP habits) and without photoprotection habits (No PP habits). They were questioned about their sunscreen and cosmetic products use. The skin parameters were evaluated using biophysical and skin imaging techniques.

RESULTS AND CONCLUSION

60% of the participants did not apply sunscreen often and 80% did not consume other skin care products. No PP habits group presented an increase in the transepidermal water loss - TEWL and sebum level, as well as a reduction in the stratum corneum water content and dermis echogenicity. The skin characteristics evaluated in this study were correlated with the sun protection habits and skin care behavior showing that men face some sociocultural barrier to start the use of cosmetic products. Thus, it is important to consider this information for the dermatological clinical and development of cosmetic products for men's skin.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Skincare application of medicinal plant polysaccharides - A review

Polysaccharides are macromolecules with important inherent properties and potential biotechnological applications. These complex carbohydrates exist throughout nature, especially in plants, from which they can be obtained with high yields. Different extraction and purification methods may affect the structure of polysaccharides and, due to the close relationship between structure and function, modify their biological activities. One of the possible applications of these polysaccharides is acting on the skin, which is the largest organ in the human body and can be aged by intrinsic and extrinsic processes. Skincare has been gaining worldwide attention not only to prevent diseases but also to promote rejuvenation in aesthetic treatments. In this review, we discussed the polysaccharides obtained from plants and their innovative potential for skin applications, for example as wound-healing, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, antitumoral, and anti-aging compounds.

Skin occlusive performance: sustainable alternatives for petrolatum in skincare formulations

BACKGROUND

The emollients are important ingredients used in skincare formulations that can act as moisturizing agents through their occlusive potential, preventing skin water loss. Consumer interest in natural and sustainable products has grown considerably in the last few years, requiring efforts from the cosmetic industry to design products with raw materials of natural, organic and sustainable origin. Thus, it is essential to improve the knowledge about the behavior of cosmetic raw materials that can be used as sustainable alternatives to synthetic ingredients.

AIM

This work aimed to evaluate the occlusive performance of different vegetable oils used as emollients in skincare cosmetics, through comparative analysis with petrolatum, a synthetic emollient with a high occlusive skin potential.

METHOD

The study included 80 healthy female adult volunteers. TEWL measurements were performed before and after 15 minutes, 2 and 6 hours of emollients application on the forearms of the research participants. All research participants provided written informed consent.

RESULTS

The results obtained showed that the vegetable oils were effective in providing an occlusive effect on the skin. When compared to the petrolatum, the vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

CONCLUSION

Vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients and they are promising in replacing petrolatum in skincare formulations with respect to the occlusion effect of the skin. The vegetable oils did not provide a high immediate skin occlusion effect (15 minutes post-application) as the petrolatum, which is known to have increased occlusion properties. However, most of them showed a skin occlusion performance comparable to petrolatum throughout the 6-hour time course.

Wearable Sweat Loss Measuring Devices: From the Role of Sweat Loss to Advanced Mechanisms and Designs

Wearable sweat sensors have received significant research interest and have become popular as sweat contains considerable health information about physiological and psychological states. However, measured biomarker concentrations vary with sweat rates, which has a significant effect on the accuracy and reliability of sweat biosensors. Wearable sweat loss measuring devices (SLMDs) have recently been proposed to overcome the limitations of biomarker tracking and reduce inter- and intraindividual variability. In addition, they offer substantial potential for monitoring human body homeostasis, because sweat loss plays an indispensable role in thermoregulation and skin hydration. Previous studies have not carried out a comprehensive and systematic review of the principles, importance, and development of wearable SLMDs. This paper reviews wearable SLMDs with a new health perspective from the role of sweat loss to advanced mechanisms and designs. Two types of sweat and their measurement significance for practical applications are highlighted. Then, a comprehensive review of advances in different wearable SLMDs based on hygrometers, absorbent materials, and microfluidics is presented by describing their respective device architectures, present situations, and future directions. Finally, concluding remarks on opportunities for future application fields and challenges for future sweat sensing are presented.

Vehicles for Drug Delivery and Cosmetic Moisturizers: Review and Comparison

Many dermatological conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, are treated with topical therapeutic products. Instead of applying the active drug directly onto the skin, it is combined with a vehicle to aid in its delivery across the stratum corneum (SC) and into deeper regions of the skin, namely the epidermis and dermis. Absorption into the systemic circulation is minimized. Topical vehicles are also used as cosmetic moisturizers (often termed emollient therapy) to ameliorate dry skin, which is a cornerstone of the management of various dermatological conditions, including xerosis, eczema, psoriasis, and aging. The most common topical vehicles include ointments, creams, gels, and lotions, among others. It is crucial that topical vehicles are chosen based upon the size and properties (wet/dry, mucous/non-mucous, healthy/diseased) of the skin to be treated in order to optimize application and contact of the product with the skin, as this can have profound impacts on potency, efficacy, and patient compliance. This review examines common topical vehicles used for drug delivery and cosmetic moisturizers, including their formulation, advantages and disadvantages, and effects on the skin. The unique rules imposed by governing regulatory bodies in Australia and around the world, in terms of topical product claims, are also briefly examined.

Anti-Herpes Simplex 1 Activity of Simmondsia chinensis (Jojoba) Wax

Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis (Link) Schneider) wax is used for various dermatological and pharmaceutical applications. Several reports have previously shown beneficial properties of Jojoba wax and extracts, including antimicrobial activity. The current research aimed to elucidate the impact of Jojoba wax on skin residential bacterial (Staphylococcus aureus and Staphylococcus epidermidis), fungal (Malassezia furfur), and virus infection (herpes simplex 1; HSV-1). First, the capacity of four commercial wax preparations to attenuate their growth was evaluated. The results suggest that the growth of Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis, and Malassezia furfur was unaffected by Jojoba in pharmacologically relevant concentrations. However, the wax significantly attenuated HSV-1 plaque formation. Next, a complete dose–response analysis of four different Jojoba varieties (Benzioni, Shiloah, Hatzerim, and Sheva) revealed a similar anti-viral effect with high potency (EC₅₀ of 0.96 ± 0.4 µg/mL) that blocked HSV-1 plaque formation. The antiviral activity of the wax was also confirmed by real-time PCR, as well as viral protein expression by immunohistochemical staining. Chemical characterization of the fatty acid and fatty alcohol composition was performed, showing high similarity between the wax of the investigated varieties. Lastly, our results demonstrate that the observed effects are independent of simmondsin, repeatedly associated with the medicinal impact of Jojoba wax, and that Jojoba wax presence is required to gain protection against HSV-1 infection. Collectively, our results support the use of Jojoba wax against HSV-1 skin infections.

In vivo examination of healthy human skin after short-time treatment with moisturizers using confocal Raman spectroscopy and optical coherence tomography: Preliminary observations

Skin is our barrier against environmental damage. Moisturizers are widely used to increase hydration and barrier integrity of the skin; however, there are contrasting observations on their in vivo effects in real-life settings. In cosmetic studies, corneometers and tewameters are traditionally used to assess skin hydration. In this study, two novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques, optical coherence tomography (OCT) and confocal Raman spectroscopy, were used to analyze stratum corneum and epidermal thickness (ET), water content, blood flow in function of depth, skin roughness, attenuation coefficient, natural moisturizing factor, ceramides and free fatty acids, cholesterol, urea, and lactates in 20 female subjects aged between 30 and 45 before and after 2 weeks application of a commercially available moisturizing lotion on one forearm. The untreated forearm served as control. A third measurement was conducted 1 week after cessation of moisturizing to verify whether the changes in the analyzed parameters persisted. We noticed a reduction in skin roughness, an increase in ceramides and free fatty acids and a not statistically significant increase in ET. As a conclusion, short time moisturizing appears insufficient to provide significant changes in skin morphology and composition, as assessed by OCT and RS. Novel noninvasive imaging methods are suitable for the evaluation of skin response to topical moisturizers. Further studies on larger sample size and longer treatment schedules are needed to analyze changes under treatment with moisturizers and to standardize the use of novel noninvasive diagnostic techniques.

Cyanobacteria and microalgae bioactive compounds in skin-ageing: potential to restore extracellular matrix filling and overcome hyperpigmentation

As the largest organ in human body, skin acts as a physicochemical barrier, offering protection against harmful environmental stressors, such as chemicals, pathogens, temperature and radiation. Nonetheless, skins prominence goes further, with a significant psychosocial role in an increasingly ageing population. Prompted by consumers’ concern regarding skincare, cosmetic industry has been developing new formulas capable of lessening the most visible signs of ageing, including reduction in skin density and elasticity, wrinkling and hyperpigmentation. Allied to skincare is the rising importance set on natural products, sustainably obtained from less environmental impacting methods. Cyanobacteria and microalgae are adding importance in this field, given their ability to biosynthesize secondary metabolites with anti-ageing potential. In this review, we present an overview on the potential of cyanobacteria and microalgae compounds to overcome skin-ageing, essentially by exploring their effects on the metalloproteinases collagenase, elastase, gelatinase and hyaluronidase, and in other enzymes involved in the pigmentation process.