Sunscreens – Which and What for?

Distribution and accumulation of UV filters (UVFs) and conservation status of Posidonia oceanica seagrass meadows in a prominent Mediterranean coastal tourist hub

This study investigates the presence and impact of UV filters in Posidonia oceanica meadows in Formentera, a Mediterranean tourist hotspot. It highlights the distribution of inorganic (TiO2 and ZnO) and organic UV filters (UVFs) in different environmental matrices, their accumulation in seagrass tissues and their impact on the seagrass health. In the overlying and canopy waters of P. oceanica, Zn concentrations surpassed Ti, with three organic UVFs (benzophenone-3 [BP-3], avobenzone and homosalate [HMS]) consistently detected. Ti concentrations were generally higher than Zn in rhizosphere sediments, along with recurrent presence of octocrylene, HMS, 2-ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), and 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (4-MBC). Maximum Zn concentrations were found in canopy waters (3052.9 ng L-1). Both Ti and Zn were found in all P. oceanica tissues and leaf epiphytes across all study sites. Additional UVFs like octocrylene, avobenzone, and BP-8 were also detected in P. oceanica tissues and epiphytes. Elevated levels of octocrylene in leaf epiphytes (2112.1 ng g-1 dw) and avobenzone in leaves (364.2 ng g-1 dw) and leaf epiphytes (199.6 ng g-1 dw) were observed in the Port of La Savina, the island's main entry port. Octocrylene concentrations (up to 2575 ng g-1 dw) in rhizosphere sediments near sewage discharge points exceeded reported maxima, highlighting wastewater treatment plants as significant sources of organic UVFs. Correlational analyses suggested that the accumulation of octocrylene, avobenzone, and BP-3 negatively impacted P. oceanica's conservation status, affecting global density, density at 100 % cover, and leaf morphometry. Positive correlations were observed between leaf polyphenols (antioxidants) and concentrations of avobenzone, benzophenone-8 (BP-8), and BP-3, indicating potential oxidative stress induced by UVFs in P. oceanica. Our study underscores the pervasive presence of UV filters in P. oceanica habitats, with implications for seagrass health and conservation, especially in areas of high tourism and sewage discharge.

Ultraviolet Filters: Dissecting Current Facts and Myths

Skin cancer is a global and increasingly prevalent issue, causing significant individual and economic damage. UV filters in sunscreens play a major role in mitigating the risks that solar ultraviolet ra-diation poses to the human organism. While empirically effective, multiple adverse effects of these compounds are discussed in the media and in scientific research. UV filters are blamed for the dis-ruption of endocrine processes and vitamin D synthesis, damaging effects on the environment, induction of acne and neurotoxic and carcinogenic effects. Some of these allegations are based on scientific facts while others are simply arbitrary. This is especially dangerous considering the risks of exposing unprotected skin to the sun. In summary, UV filters approved by the respective governing bodies are safe for human use and their proven skin cancer-preventing properties make them in-dispensable for sensible sun protection habits. Nonetheless, compounds like octocrylene and ben-zophenone-3 that are linked to the harming of marine ecosystems could be omitted from skin care regimens in favor of the myriad of non-toxic UV filters.

Enzymes for dermatological use

Skin is the ultimate barrier between body and environment and prevents water loss and penetration of pathogens and toxins. Internal and external stressors, such as ultraviolet radiation (UVR), can damage skin integrity and lead to disorders. Therefore, skin health and skin ageing are important concerns and increased research from cosmetic and pharmaceutical sectors aims to improve skin conditions and provide new anti-ageing treatments. Biomolecules, compared to low molecular weight drugs and cosmetic ingredients, can offer high levels of specificity. Topically applied enzymes have been investigated to treat the adverse effects of sunlight, pollution and other external agents. Enzymes, with a diverse range of targets, present potential for dermatological use such as antioxidant enzymes, proteases and repairing enzymes. In this review, we discuss enzymes for dermatological applications and the challenges associated in this growing field.

The Enigmatic World of Fungal Melanin: A Comprehensive Review

Synthetic dyes are generally not safe for human health or the environment, leading to the continuous search and growing demand for natural pigments that are considered safer, biodegrade more easily, and are environmentally beneficial. Among micro-organisms, fungi represent an emerging source of pigments due to their many benefits; therefore, they are readily viable on an industrial scale. Among all the bioactive pigments produced by fungi, melanin is an enigmatic, multifunctional pigment that has been studied for more than 150 years. This dark pigment, which is produced via the oxidative polymerization of phenolic compounds, has been investigated for its potential to protect life from all kingdoms, including fungi, from biotic and abiotic stresses. Over time, the research on fungal melanin has attracted a significant amount of scientific interest due to melanin's distinct biological activities and multifarious functionality, which is well-documented in the literature and could possibly be utilized. This review surveys the literature and summarizes the current discourse, presenting an up-to-date account of the research performed on fungal melanin that encompasses its types, the factors influencing its bioactivity, the optimization of fermentation conditions to enhance its sustainable production, its biosynthetic pathways, and its extraction, as well as biochemical characterization techniques and the potential uses of melanin in a wide range of applications in various industries. A massive scope of work remains to circumvent the obstacles to obtaining melanin from fungi and exploring its future prospects in a diverse range of applications.

Development of Photoprotective Formulations: Influence of Formulation Composition on the SPF and Mechanical Properties

The evaluation of the vehicle formulation is important during the development of sunscreens, as it influences their efficacy. In this context, the aim of the present study was to develop photoprotective formulations and evaluate the influence of the formulation components in the sun protection factor (SPF) and physical-mechanical and sensory properties of the formulations. We evaluated four sunscreens through a 2² full factorial design in terms of concentration and emulsifier type. The design of experiments (DOE) parameters were SPF, thixotropy, and work of shear. After the screening of the formulations by DOE, the SPF values, mechanical and sensory properties, and stability were evaluated. All study formulations showed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behavior, compatible with sunscreens, and presented SPF values above 30. The factors evaluated in DOE had significant interactions for all the analyzed parameters. The concentration of the phosphate-based emulsifier influenced the SPF parameter. The work of shear was influenced by the concentration of polyglyceryl-based emulsifier. The concentration and the type of emulsifier influenced the thixotropy. Finally, effective sunscreens were developed, and the type and concentration of emulsifiers had an influence on the SPF of the formulations. In addition, the formulations chosen by DOE were stable and showed good sensory properties.

Review on photoprotection: a clinician’s guide to the ingredients, characteristics, adverse effects, and disease-specific benefits of chemical and physical sunscreen compounds

Photoprotection is a critical health prevention strategy to reduce the deleterious effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and visible light (VL). Methods of photoprotection are reviewed in this paper, with an emphasis on sunscreen. The most appropriate sunscreen formulation for personal use depends on several factors. Active sunscreen ingredients vary in their protective effect over the UVR and VL spectrum. There are dermatologic diseases that cause photosensitivity or that are aggravated by a particular action spectrum. In these situations, sunscreen suggestions can address the specific concern. Sunscreen does not represent a single entity. Appropriate personalized sunscreen selection is critical to improve compliance and clinical outcomes. Health care providers can facilitate informed product selection with awareness of evolving sunscreen formulations and counseling patients on appropriate use. This review aims to summarize different forms of photoprotection, discuss absorption of sunscreen ingredients, possible adverse effects, and disease-specific preferences for chemical, physical or oral agents that may decrease UVR and VL harmful effects.

Evaluation of Two Novel Hydantoin Derivatives Using Reconstructed Human Skin Model EpiskinTM: Perspectives for Application as Potential Sunscreen Agents

This study aimed to assess two novel 5-arylideneimidazolidine-2,4-dione (hydantoin) derivatives (JH3 and JH10) demonstrating photoprotective activity using the reconstructed human skin model Episkin^TM. The skin permeability, irritation, and phototoxicity of the compounds was evaluated in vitro. Moreover, the in vitro genotoxicity and human metabolism of both compounds was studied. For skin permeation and irritation experiments, the test compounds were incorporated into a formulation. It was shown that JH3 and JH10 display no skin irritation and no phototoxicity. Both compounds did not markedly enhance the frequency of micronuclei in CHO-K1 cells in the micronucleus assay. Preliminary in vitro studies with liver microsomes demonstrated that hydrolysis appears to constitute their important metabolic pathway. Episkin^TM permeability experiments showed that JH3 permeability was lower than or close to currently used UV filters, whereas JH10 had the potential to permeate the skin. Therefore, a restriction of this compound permeability should be obtained by choosing the right vehicle or by optimizing it, which should be addressed in future studies.

In Vitro Assessment of Sunscreen Efficacy Using Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) Spectroscopy on Synthetic Skin

Although there are several methods for assessing the sun protection factor (SPF) of sunscreen products, there is no standard and reliable in vitro method. Each test entails limitations and drawbacks. Therefore, this study aimed to assess the employability of FTIR as an alternative and quick method to evaluate the efficacy of various sunscreen formulations, their concentrations, and the timing of their application. Infrared radiation has longer wavelengths than ultraviolet, penetrates deeply into the skin, and hence enables the understanding of sunscreens' ability to block the transmission of radiation. The FTIR transmission using synthetic skin to study the effect of sunscreen agents (oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, titanium dioxide (TiO₂), and zinc oxide (ZnO)) was conducted in the range 450-4000cm^-1. Comparison studies were made at the peak of 805cm^-1. After 2 h of sunscreen application, using the maximum concentrations, the FTIR peak at wavenumber 805cm^-1 demonstrated a significant reduction of transmission from 96.55 to 60.09%, 57.59%, 32.02%, and 37.1% for oxybenzone, octyl methoxycinnamate, TiO₂, and ZnO respectively (P<0.05). A significant reduction in transmission was observed (P<0.05) with increasing sunscreen concentrations after 2 h of application. Nevertheless, the upper limit of concentration showed no appreciable change from the middle level of concentration, and hence it is cost-effective to employ the middle concentration. Inorganic sunscreens showed a higher protection level than organic. Fixed-dose combinations of sunscreens showed an enhanced effect yet were not synergistic. In conclusion, the use of FTIR spectroscopy with synthetic skin is a quick and user-friendly technique that enables the assessment of the efficacy of sunscreen formulations.

Global trends of sunscreen research literature: A bibliometric analysis over the period of 2010–2020

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In vitro Assessment of Solar Filters for Erythropoietic Protoporphyria in the Action Spectrum of Protoporphyrin IX

Introduction: Subjects with erythropoietic protoporphyria rely on broad-spectrum sunscreens with high sun protection factor, which is not informative on efficacy in the absorption spectrum of protoporphyrin IX, spanning visible radiation and peaking around 408 nm. Photoactivation of protoporphyrin IX is responsible for painful skin photosensitivity in erythropoietic protoporphyria. The authors assessed the protective efficacy of six sunscreens in vitro in the absorption spectrum of protoporphyrin IX. Method: Transmittance measurements were performed in the 300-850 nm wavelengths on samples of six photoprotective products applied to polymethyl methacrylate plates. Porphyrin protection factor was calculated in the 300-700 nm region to provide a measurement for the efficacy of each product based on the action spectrum of protoporphyrin IX. Results: Product A showed the highest porphyrin protection factor among tested products with a median value of 4.22. Product A is a sunscreen containing organic filters, titanium dioxide and synthetic iron oxides, pigmentary grade active ingredients that absorb visible radiation. Other products showed inefficient protection in the visible, with transmittance between 75 and 95% at 500 nm. The low porphyrin protection factor of inorganic filter product B was attributed to particle micronization, as declared by the manufacturer. Conclusion: Adding porphyrin protection factor to sunscreen labeling could help patients with erythropoietic protoporphyria and other photosensitivity disorders identify products tailored on their specific needs. The development of sunscreens providing protection from visible radiation and excellent cosmetical tolerability could improve the lifestyle of patients with erythropoietic protoporphyria.

Microbial melanin: Recent advances in biosynthesis, extraction, characterization, and applications

Melanin is a common name for a group of biopolymers with the dominance of potential applications in medical sciences, cosmeceutical, bioremediation, and bioelectronic applications. The broad distribution of these pigments suggests their role to combat abiotic and biotic stresses in diverse life forms. Biosynthesis of melanin in fungi and bacteria occurs by oxidative polymerization of phenolic compounds predominantly by two pathways, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene [DHN] or 3,4-dihydroxyphenylalanine [DOPA], resulting in different kinds of melanin, i.e., eumelanin, pheomelanin, allomelanin, pyomelanin, and neuromelanin. The enzymes responsible for melanin synthesis belong mainly to tyrosinase, laccase, and polyketide synthase families. Studies have shown that manipulating culture parameters, combined with recombinant technology, can increase melanin yield for large-scale production. Despite significant efforts, its low solubility has limited the development of extraction procedures, and heterogeneous structural complexity has impaired structural elucidation, restricting effective exploitation of their biotechnological potential. Innumerable studies have been performed on melanin pigments from different taxa of life in order to advance the knowledge about melanin pigments for their efficient utilization in diverse applications. These studies prompted an urgent need for a comprehensive review on melanin pigments isolated from microorganisms, so that such review encompassing biosynthesis, bioproduction, characterization, and potential applications would help researchers from diverse background to understand the importance of microbial melanins and to utilize the information from the review for planning studies on melanin. With this aim in mind, the present report compares conventional and modern ideas for environment-friendly extraction procedures for melanin. Furthermore, the characteristic parameters to differentiate between eumelanin and pheomelanin are also mentioned, followed by their biotechnological applications forming the basis of industrial utilization. There lies a massive scope of work to circumvent the bottlenecks in their isolation and structural elucidation methodologies.

Visible light. Part II: Photoprotection against visible and ultraviolet light

Cutaneous photobiology studies have focused primarily on the ultraviolet portion of the solar spectrum. Visible light (VL), which comprises 50% of the electromagnetic radiation that reaches the Earth's surface and, as discussed in Part I of this CME, has cutaneous biologic effects, such as pigment darkening and erythema. Photoprotection against VL includes avoiding the sun, seeking shade, and using photoprotective clothing. The organic and inorganic ultraviolet filters used in sunscreens do not protect against VL, only tinted sunscreens do. In the United States, these filters are regulated by the Food and Drug Administration as an over-the-counter drug and are subject to more stringent regulations than in Europe, Asia, and Australia. There are no established guidelines regarding VL photoprotection. Alternative measures to confer VL photoprotection are being explored. These novel methods include topical, oral, and subcutaneous agents. Further development should focus on better protection in the ultraviolet A1 (340-400 nm) and VL ranges while enhancing the cosmesis of the final products.

Testing the bioaccumulation potential of manufactured nanomaterials in the freshwater amphipod Hyalella azteca

Standardized experimental approaches for the quantification of the bioaccumulation potential of nanomaterials in general and in (benthic) invertebrates in particular are currently lacking. We examined the suitability of the benthic freshwater amphipod Hyalella azteca for the examination of the bioaccumulation potential of nanomaterials. A flow-through test system that allows the generation of bioconcentration and biomagnification factors was applied. The feasibility of the system was confirmed in a 2-lab comparison study. By carrying out bioconcentration and biomagnification studies with gold, titanium dioxide and silver nanoparticles as well as dissolved silver (AgNO₃) we were able to assess the bioaccumulation potential of different types of nanomaterials and their exposure pathways. For this, the animals were examined for their total metal body burden using inductively coupled mass spectroscopy (ICP-MS) and for the presence of nanoparticulate burdens using single-particle ICP-MS. The role of released ions was highlighted as being very important for the bioavailability and bioaccumulation of metals from nanoparticles for both examined uptake paths examined (bioconcentration and biomagnification). In 2018 a tiered testing strategy for engineered nanomaterials was proposed by Handy et al. that may allow a waiver of bioaccumulation fish studies using inter alia invertebrates. Data gained in studies carried out with invertebrates like the developed Hyalella azteca test may be included in this proposed tiered testing strategy.

The Involvement of Xanthone and (E)-Cinnamoyl Chromophores for the Design and Synthesis of Novel Sunscreening Agents

Excessive UV exposure contributes to several pathological conditions like skin burns, erythema, premature skin aging, photodermatoses, immunosuppression, and skin carcinogenesis. Effective protection from UV radiation may be achieved with the use of sunscreens containing UV filters. Currently used UV filters are characterized by some limitations including systemic absorption, endocrine disruption, skin allergy induction, and cytotoxicity. In the research centers all over the world new molecules are developed to improve the safety, photostability, solubility, and absorption profile of new derivatives. In our study, we designed and synthesized seventeen novel molecules by combining in the structures two chromophores: xanthone and (E)-cinnamoyl moiety. The ultraviolet spectroscopic properties of the tested compounds were confirmed in chloroform solutions. They acted as UVB or UVA/UVB absorbers. The most promising compound 9 (6-methoxy-9-oxo-9H-xanthen-2-yl)methyl (E)-3-(2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)acrylate) absorbed UV radiation in the range 290-369 nm. Its photoprotective activity and functional photostability were further evaluated after wet milling and incorporation in the cream base. This tested formulation with compound 9 possessed very beneficial UV protection parameters (SPFin vitro of 19.69 ± 0.46 and UVA PF of 12.64 ± 0.32) which were similar as broad-spectrum UV filter tris-biphenyl triazine. Additionally, compound 9 was characterized by high values of critical wavelength (381 nm) and UVA/UVB ratio (0.830) thus it was a good candidate for broad-spectrum UV filter and it might protect skin against UVA-induced photoaging. Compound 9 were also shown to be photostable, non-cytotoxic at concentrations up to 50 µM when tested on five cell lines, and non-mutagenic in Ames test. It also possessed no estrogenic activity, according to the results of MCF-7 breast cancer model. Additionally, its favorable lipophilicity (miLogP = 5.62) does not predispose it to penetrate across the skin after topical application.

Skin photo-protection with phytochemicals against photo-oxidative stress, photo-carcinogenesis, signal transduction pathways and extracellular matrix remodeling-An overview

Excessive exposure of skin to UV radiation triggers the generation of oxidative stress, inflammation, immunosuppression, apoptosis, matrix-metalloproteases production, and DNA mutations leading to the onset of photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis. At the molecular level, these changes occur via activation of several protein kinases as well as transcription pathways, formation of reactive oxygen species, and release of cytokines, interleukins and prostaglandins together. Current therapies available on the market only provide limited solutions and exhibit several side effects. The present paper provides insight into scientific studies that have elucidated the positive role of phytochemicals in counteracting the UV-induced depletion of antioxidant enzymes, increased lipid peroxidation, inflammation, DNA mutations, increased senescence, dysfunctional apoptosis and immune suppression. The contribution of phytochemicals to the downregulation of expression of oxidative-stress sensitive transcription factors (Nrf2, NF-Kb, AP-1 and p53) and protein kinases (MSK, ERK, JNK, p38 MAPK, p90RSK2 and CaMKs) involved in inflammation, apoptosis, immune suppression, extracellular matrix remodelling, senescence, photo ageing and photo-carcinogenesis, is also discussed. Conclusively, several phytochemicals hold potential for the development of a viable solution against UV irradiation-mediated photo ageing, photo-carcinogenesis and related manifestations.

Mechanoregulation of titanium dioxide nanoparticles in cancer therapy

Titanium dioxide (TiO₂) nanoparticles (NPs), first developed in the 1990s, have been applied in numerous biomedical fields such as tissue engineering and therapeutic drug development. In recent years, TiO₂-based drug delivery systems have demonstrated the ability to decrease the risk of tumorigenesis and improve cancer therapy. There is increasing research on the origin and effects of pristine and doped TiO₂-based nanotherapeutic drugs. However, the detailed molecular mechanisms by which drug delivery to cancer cells alters sensing of gene mutations, protein degradation, and metabolite changes as well as its associated cumulative effects that determine the microenvironmental mechanosensitive metabolism have not yet been clearly elucidated. This review focuses on the microenvironmental influence of TiO₂-NPs induced various mechanical stimuli on tumor cells. The differential expression of genome, proteome, and metabolome after treatment with TiO₂-NPs is summarized and discussed. In the tumor microenvironment, mechanosensitive DNA mutations, gene delivery, protein degradation, inflammatory responses, and cell viability affected by the mechanical stimuli of TiO₂-NPs are also examined.

In silico prediction of MicroRNA role in regulation of Zebrafish (Danio rerio) responses to nanoparticle exposure

The release of nanoparticles to the environment can affect health of the exposed organisms. MicroRNAs have been suggested as potential toxicology biomarkers, however the information about use of microRNA in aquatic organisms exposed to nanoparticles (NP) is limited. In silico analysis from publicly available gene expression data was performed. Data selection for the analysis was based on reported biological and pathological outcomes of NP induced toxicity in zebrafish. After identifying relevant genes, we constructed six miRNA-mRNA regulatory networks involved in nanoparticle induced toxicological responses in zebrafish. Based on our prediction and selection criteria we selected six miRNAs that overlapped in constructed networks with remarkable prediction score, and were validated by previous mammalian and zebrafish microRNA profiling studies: dre-miR-124, -144, -148, -155, -19a, -223. The results of this in silico analysis indicate that several highly conserved miRNAs likely have a regulatory role of organismal responses to nanoparticles, and can possibly be used as biomarkers of nanotoxicity in studies using zebrafish as model organism One health approaches.

The effect of micro-sized titanium dioxide on WM-266-4 metastatic melanoma cell line

Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is widely used as an inorganic UV-filter in cosmetic products; however, it has been classified as possibly carcinogenic to humans. While numerous studies demonstrated cytotoxic and genotoxic effects of nano-sized TiO2 in different cell lines, including human skin cells, studies investigating the effects of micro-TiO2 on human keratinocytes and melanocytes, in healthy and cancer cells, are scarce. Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) binding cassette subfamily B member 5 (ABCB5) is a plasma membrane protein known for its role in the tumorigenicity, progression, and recurrence of melanoma. Here, we investigated the effect of micro-TiO2 (average particle size ≤5 µm) on the metabolic activity, cytotoxicity and ABCB5 mRNA expression in metastatic melanoma cells. Metastatic melanoma cell line WM-266-4 was treated with different concentrations of micro-TiO2 for different incubation times to obtain dose- and time-dependent responses. Untreated WM-266-4 cells, cultured under the same conditions, were used as control. The cell metabolic activity was determined by MTT assay. Cytotoxicity of micro-TiO2 was analyzed by lactate dehydrogenase (LDH) cytotoxicity assay. The ABCB5 mRNA expression in melanoma cells was analyzed using quantitative reverse transcription polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR). After 120 hours of exposure to micro-TiO2 the metabolic activity of melanoma cells decreased, especially at the two highest micro-TiO2 concentrations. Comparably, the cytotoxicity of micro-TiO2 on melanoma cells increased after 48 and 120 hours of exposure, in a time-dependent manner. The ABCB5 mRNA expression in micro-TiO2-treated melanoma cells also decreased significantly after 24 and 48 hours, in a time-dependent manner. Overall, our results suggest inhibitory effects of micro-TiO2 on the metabolic activity and ABCB5 mRNA expression in metastatic melanoma cells, indicating its potential use as an anticancer agent.

Cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics: current use and future prospects

Cinnamic acid derivatives are widely used in cosmetics and possess various functions. This group of compounds includes both naturally occurring and synthetic substances. On the basis of the Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng) and available literature, this review summarizes their functions in cosmetics, including their physicochemical and biological properties as well as reported adverse effects. A perfuming function is typical of many derivatives of cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, dihydrocinnamyl alcohol and cinnamic acid itself; these substances are commonly used in cosmetics all over the world. Some of them show allergic and photoallergic potential, resulting in restrictions in maximum concentrations and/or a requirement to indicate the presence of some substances in the list of ingredients when their concentrations exceed certain fixed values in a cosmetic product. Another important function of cinnamic acid derivatives in cosmetics is UV protection. Ester derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (octinoxate), isoamyl p-methoxycinnamte (amiloxiate), octocrylene and cinoxate are used in cosmetics all over the world as UV filters. However, their maximum concentrations in cosmetic products are restricted due to their adverse effects, which include contact and a photocontact allergies, phototoxic contact dermatitis, contact dermatitis, estrogenic modulation and generation of reactive oxygen species. Other rarely utilized functions of cinnamic acid derivatives are as an antioxidant, in skin conditioning, hair conditioning, as a tonic and in antimicrobial activities. Moreover, some currently investigated natural and synthetic derivatives of cinnamic acid have shown skin lightening and anti-ageing properties. Some of them may become new cosmetic ingredients in the future. In particular, 4-hydroxycinnamic acid, which is currently indexed as a skin-conditioning cosmetics ingredient, has been widely tested in vitro and in vivo as a new drug candidate for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.

Oral Photoprotection: Effective Agents and Potential Candidates

Electromagnetic radiation in the ultraviolet, visible, and infrared ranges produces biologic effects in humans. Where some of these effects are beneficial, others are harmful to the skin, particularly those stemming from ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Pharmacological photoprotection can be topical or systemic. Systemic photoprotection is often administered orally, complementing topical protection. New and classic oral agents (e.g., essential micronutrients as vitamins, minerals, polyphenols, carotenoids) are endowed with photoprotective and anti-photocarcinogenic properties. These substances bear the potential to increase systemic protection against the effects of electromagnetic radiation in the UV, visible, and infrared ranges. Protective mechanisms vary and include anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory, and immunomodulatory effects. As such, they provide protection against UVR and prevent photo-induced carcinogenesis and aging. In this review, we present state of the art approaches regarding the photoprotective effects of vitamins and vitamin derivatives, dietary botanical, and non-botanical agents. A growing body of data supports the beneficial effects of oral photoprotection on the health of the skin. More studies will likely confirm and expand the positive impact of oral dietary botanicals as complementary measures for photoprotection.

Effect of TiO2 nanoparticle aggregation on marine microalgae Isochrysis galbana

TiO₂ nanoparticles (NPs) could adversely impact aquatic ecosystems. However, the aggregation of these NPs could attenuate this effect. In this work, the biological effects of TiO₂ NPs on a marine microalgae Isochrysis galbana were investigated. The aggregation kinetics of TiO₂ NPs under different conditions was also investigated to determine and understand these effects. Results showed that, though TiO₂ NPs had no obvious impact on the size and reproducibility of algal cells under testing conditions, they caused a negative effect on algal chlorophyll, which led to a reduction in photosynthesis. Furthermore, fast aggregation of TiO₂ NPs occurred under all conditions, especially at the pH close to the pH_zpc. Increasing ionic strength and NP concentration also enhanced the aggregation rate. The aggregation and the following sedimentation of TiO₂ NPs reduced their adverse effects on I. galbana.

The Importance of Medicinal Chemistry Knowledge in the Clinical Pharmacist's Education

Objective. To show why medicinal chemistry must be a key component of the education of pharmacy students, as well as in the pharmacist's practice. Findings. Five case reports were selected by their clinically relevant elements of medicinal chemistry and were explained using structure-activity relationship data of the drugs involved in the case easily obtained from primary literature and in medicinal chemistry textbooks. Summary. This paper demonstrates how critical clinical decisions can be addressed using medicinal chemistry knowledge. While such knowledge may not explain all clinical decisions, medicinal chemistry concepts are essential for the education of pharmacy students to explain drug action in general and clinical decisions.

Fully-biobased UV-absorbing nanoparticles from ethyl cellulose and zein for environmentally friendly photoprotection

Effective photoprotection is a vital consumer issue. However, there are many concerns regarding the adverse environmental and health impacts associated with current organic and inorganic UV filters. Here, we prepare fully-biobased UV-absorbing nanoparticles from ethyl cellulose (ECNPs) and zein (ZNPs) with encapsulated biobased photoprotectants obtainable from plants and foods (quercetin, retinol, and p-coumaric acid), which have the potential to satisfy both environmental and health issues in photoprotection. We show the ability of ECNPs and ZNPs to be easily tuned compositionally to obtain uniform, broadband UV spectrum absorbance profiles, and prepare transparent UV-absorbing coatings from the ECNPs. We find that the maximum loadings for retinol, quercetin, and p-coumaric acid into the ECNPs are 31 wt%, 14 wt%, and 13 wt% respectively. The ECNP size remains constant (except for the largest loading of retinol, 31 wt%) and the absolute zeta potential increases upon increasing the loading of quercetin and retinol, whereas increasing the loading of p-coumaric acid results in increasing the particle size and a lower absolute zeta potential. We find that quercetin and retinol are effectively retained inside the ECNPs at 64–70% after 72 hours. These results have significant implications for the development of novel photoprotection technologies and functional nanoparticles.

UV-absorbing nanoparticles are prepared with an entirely biobased composition, as a novel environmentally-friendly photoprotection technology.

Nanofiller Presence Enhances Polycyclic Aromatic Hydrocarbon (PAH) Profile on Nanoparticles Released during Thermal Decomposition of Nano-enabled Thermoplastics: Potential Environmental Health Implications

Nano-enabled products are ultimately destined to reach end-of-life with an important fraction undergoing thermal degradation through waste incineration or accidental fires. Although previous studies have investigated the physicochemical properties of released lifecycle particulate matter (called LCPM) from thermal decomposition of nano-enabled thermoplastics, critical questions about the effect of nanofiller on the chemical composition of LCPM still persist. Here, we investigate the potential nanofiller effects on the profiles of 16 Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)-priority polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) adsorbed on LCPM from thermal decomposition of nano-enabled thermoplastics. We found that nanofiller presence in thermoplastics significantly enhances not only the total PAH concentration in LCPM but most importantly also the high molecular weight (HMW, 4-6 ring) PAHs that are considerably more toxic than the low molecular weight (LMW, 2-3 ring) PAHs. This nano-specific effect was also confirmed during in vitro cellular toxicological evaluation of LCPM for the case of polyurethane thermoplastic enabled with carbon nanotubes (PU-CNT). LCPM from PU-CNT shows significantly higher cytotoxicity compared to PU which could be attributed to its higher HMW PAH concentration. These findings are crucial and make the case that nanofiller presence in thermoplastics can significantly affect the physicochemical and toxicological properties of LCPM released during thermal decomposition.

Uncovering Potential Applications of Cyanobacteria and Algal Metabolites in Biology, Agriculture and Medicine: Current Status and Future Prospects

Cyanobacteria and algae having complex photosynthetic systems can channelize absorbed solar energy into other forms of energy for production of food and metabolites. In addition, they are promising biocatalysts and can be used in the field of "white biotechnology" for enhancing the sustainable production of food, metabolites, and green energy sources such as biodiesel. In this review, an endeavor has been made to uncover the significance of various metabolites like phenolics, phytoene/terpenoids, phytols, sterols, free fatty acids, photoprotective compounds (MAAs, scytonemin, carotenoids, polysaccharides, halogenated compounds, etc.), phytohormones, cyanotoxins, biocides (algaecides, herbicides, and insecticides) etc. Apart from this, the importance of these metabolites as antibiotics, immunosuppressant, anticancer, antiviral, anti-inflammatory agent has also been discussed. Metabolites obtained from cyanobacteria and algae have several biotechnological, industrial, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic uses which have also been discussed in this review along with the emerging technology of their harvesting for enhancing the production of compounds like bioethanol, biofuel etc. at commercial level. In later sections, we have discussed genetically modified organisms and metabolite production from them. We have also briefly discussed the concept of bioprocessing highlighting the functioning of companies engaged in metabolites production as well as their cost effectiveness and challenges that are being addressed by these companies.

Comparative analysis of the relative potential of silver, Zinc-oxide and titanium-dioxide nanoparticles against UVB-induced DNA damage for the prevention of skin carcinogenesis

Sunscreen formulations containing UVB filters, such as Zinc-oxide (ZnO) and titanium-dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles (NPs) have been developed to limit the exposure of human skin to UV-radiations. Unfortunately, these UVB protective agents have failed in controlling the skin cancer incidence. We recently demonstrated that silver nanoparticles (Ag-NPs) could serve as novel protective agents against UVB-radiations. Here our goal was to perform comparative analysis of direct and indirect UVB-protection efficacy of ZnO-, TiO2- and Ag-NPs. Sun-protection-factor calculated based on their UVB-reflective/absorption abilities was the highest for TiO2-NPs followed by Ag- and ZnO-NPs. This was further confirmed by studying indirect protection of UVB radiation-induced death of HaCaT cells. However, only Ag-NPs were active in protecting HaCaT cells against direct UVB-induced DNA-damage by repairing bulky-DNA lesions through nucleotide-excision-repair mechanism. Moreover, Ag-NPs were also effective in protecting HaCaT cells from UVB-induced oxidative DNA damage by enhancing SOD/CAT/GPx activity. In contrast, ZnO- and TiO2-NPs not only failed in providing any direct protection from DNA-damage, but rather enhanced oxidative DNA-damage by increasing ROS production. Together, these findings raise concerns about safety of ZnO- and TiO2-NPs and establish superior protective efficacy of Ag-NPs.

Thermal decomposition of nano-enabled thermoplastics: Possible environmental health and safety implications

Nano-enabled products (NEPs) are currently part of our life prompting for detailed investigation of potential nano-release across their life-cycle. Particularly interesting is their end-of-life thermal decomposition scenario. Here, we examine the thermal decomposition of widely used NEPs, namely thermoplastic nanocomposites, and assess the properties of the byproducts (released aerosol and residual ash) and possible environmental health and safety implications. We focus on establishing a fundamental understanding on the effect of thermal decomposition parameters, such as polymer matrix, nanofiller properties, decomposition temperature, on the properties of byproducts using a recently-developed lab-based experimental integrated platform. Our results indicate that thermoplastic polymer matrix strongly influences size and morphology of released aerosol, while there was minimal but detectable nano-release, especially when inorganic nanofillers were used. The chemical composition of the released aerosol was found not to be strongly influenced by the presence of nanofiller at least for the low, industry-relevant loadings assessed here. Furthermore, the morphology and composition of residual ash was found to be strongly influenced by the presence of nanofiller. The findings presented here on thermal decomposition/incineration of NEPs raise important questions and concerns regarding the potential fate and transport of released engineered nanomaterials in environmental media and potential environmental health and safety implications.

Couples' urinary concentrations of benzophenone-type ultraviolet filters and the secondary sex ratio

The secondary sex ratio (SSR), defined as the ratio of males to females at birth, has been investigated in relation to endocrine disruptors to search for environmental toxicants perturbing human sex selection. Benzophenone (BP)-type ultraviolet (UV) filters, which are used in sunscreens and personal care products, have been reported to exert estrogenic and anti-androgenic activities. This study aimed to evaluate the association between maternal, paternal, and couple urinary concentrations of BP-type UV filters and the SSR, given the absence of previous investigation. The study cohort comprised 220 couples who were enrolled in the Longitudinal Investigation of Fertility and the Environment (LIFE) Study between 2005 and 2009 prior to conception and who had a singleton birth during the follow-up period. Couples' urinary concentrations of five BP-type UV filters (ng/mL) were measured using triple-quadrupole tandem mass spectrometry: 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone (BP-1), 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone (BP-2), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-3), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone (BP-8), and 4-hydroxybenzophenone (4-OH-BP). Modified Poisson regression models were used to estimate the relative risks (RRs) of a male birth for each BP-type UV filter, after adjusting for potential confounders. When maternal and paternal urinary BP-type UV filter concentrations were modeled jointly, both maternal BP-2 (2nd vs 1st tertile, RR, 0.62, 95% confidence interval [CI], 0.43-0.91) and paternal BP-2 (3rd vs 1st tertile, RR, 0.67, 95% CI, 0.45-0.99; p-trend, 0.04) were significantly associated with an excess of female births. Contrarily, maternal 4-OH-BP was significantly associated with an excess of male births (2nd vs 1st tertile, RR, 1.87, 95% CI, 1.27-2.74; 3rd vs 1st tertile, RR, 1.80, 95% CI, 1.13-2.87; p-trend, 0.02). Our findings provide the first evidence suggesting that BP-type UV filters may affect the SSR. However, future corroboration is needed, given the exploratory design of this study.

Pigmented naevi and sun protection behaviour among primary and secondary school students in an Eastern Hungarian city

BACKGROUND

The most important risk factors for malignant melanoma are skin type I or II, large number of atypical naevi and a history of sunburn in childhood and adolescence.

METHODS

A cross-sectional study was performed to assess skin type, number of pigmented lesions and sun protection behaviour in 1157 12- to 19-year-old Hungarian students at 20 primary and secondary schools in Debrecen, Hungary. After receiving dermatological training, 18 school doctors examined the students' skin. A questionnaire was completed by the students with the assistance of their parents about sun protection, sunburns and the use of sunbed. Data from 612 questionnaires were evaluated.

RESULTS

Based on the doctors' evaluation, most of the pupils were classified as having skin type II and majority of them had 5-20 naevi, particularly on the trunk. Based on the student's response, 5.2% purposely sunbathed daily, 10.1% did not use any form of sun protection, 32.2% wore sun-protective clothing and 65.7% applied sunscreen generally. 6.9% used sunbed, and 74.0% previously experienced serious sunburn at least once. Indoor tanning statistically correlated with the number of melanocytic naevi.

CONCLUSION

A high prevalence of sunburn was reported by the students and some of them did not apply any sun protection methods but used sunbed at a critical age for developing melanoma at a later time. These data highlight the importance of educating children and parents about appropriate sun protection.

Rutin increases critical wavelength of systems containing a single UV filter and with good skin compatibility

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is responsible for sunburns, skin cancer, photoaging, and the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). The awareness on preventing these deleterious effects made the use of anti-UVB formulations an important part of population habits; however, despite the availability of several antioxidants capable of ROS scavenging, the pharmaceutical market lacks products associating UV filters with natural compounds of proven efficacy. Here, we investigated the effect of rutin, a flavonoid with antioxidant activity, associated with UVB filters in dermocosmetic preparations.

METHODS

Formulations were assessed through its antioxidant activity, in vitro photoprotective effectiveness, photostability, and in vivo skin tolerance (hydration, transepidermal water loss, and erythema).

RESULTS

Samples containing rutin were compatible with the human skin and presented a pronounced antioxidant potential, with scavenging activity values 75% higher than the ones containing only UVB filters. Although rutin could not prevent the sunscreens photodegradation post-irradiation, the bioactive compound significantly increased the formulations critical wavelengths, showing a photoprotective gain, especially in the UVA range.

CONCLUSION

In conclusion, the absorption in the UVA range, coupled with ROS scavenging potential, proved the positive effect of rutin applied to anti-UVB formulations, making this bioactive compound a promising candidate for photoprotection improvement.

Can melanoma therapy change attitudes toward prevention and tanning?

Malignant melanoma is the most lethal skin cancer whose incidence is increasing worldwide. Important is knowledge of risk factors, early diagnosis, long-term follow-up on confirmed melanoma cases and prevention. In this study, we tested melanoma patients' attitudes toward solar radiation and perception of the value of follow-up. The present cross-sectional epidemiological study was carried out in a group of patients diagnosed with stage I and II of malignant melanoma (n = 124). They were monitored for at least 1 year. The research was carried out by anonymous questionnaire. The results revealed that the respondents welcomed the opportunity of follow-up care. Its benefits were said to outweigh the inconvenience of repeated checkups. However, the esthetic importance of a suntan was still considered quite high. Substantial reserve was found in the use of sunscreen. The need for wide public education and the protection against excessive contact with solar radiation is evident. Regular monitoring seems to be just as important.

In vitro genotoxic effects of ZnO nanomaterials in human peripheral lymphocytes

In this study, possible genotoxic effects of zinc oxide (ZnO) nanoparticles were investigated in cultured human peripheral lymphocytes by using chromosome aberrations and micronucleus assays (MN). For this purpose, the cells were treated with ZnO (1, 2, 5, 10, 15 and 20 μg/mL) for 24 and 48 h. In this research, four types of chromosome aberrations were observed as chromatid and chromosome breaks, fragment and dicentric chromosomes. ZnO induced significant increase of the ratio of chromosomal aberrations as well as percentage of abnormal cells at concentrations of 1, 5, 10 and 20 μg/mL in 24 h treatments. In 48 h treatments, while ZnO nanomaterials induced significant increase of the percentage of abnormal cells only at a concentration of 10 μg/mL, and of chromosome aberration per cell in comparison to the control at concentrations of 5 and 10 μg/mL. On the other hand, this material significantly increased the micronuclei frequency (MN) at concentrations of 10 and 15 μg/mL in comparison to the control. Cytokinesis-block proliferation index was not affected by ZnO treatments. It also decreased the mitotic index in all concentrations at 24 h but not at 48 h. The present results indicate that ZnO nanoparticles are clastogenic, mutagenic and cytotoxic to human lymphocytes in vitro at specific concentrations and time periods.

Influence of particle size on appearance and in vitro efficacy of sunscreens

Nanotechnology applies to diverse sectors of science. In cosmetic area, investments have strengthened the idea that nanoproducts provide innumerable benefits to consumers. Extreme exposition to solar light can cause undesirable effects, thus, adding UV filters in cosmetic products are often used as prevention. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone-3 are UV filters widely used in sunscreen formulations, this UV filters absorb UVB and UVA radiation, respectively. In this study, sunscreen formulations were developed as nano and macroemulsion, but composed by the same raw material. Nanoemulsion was obtained by phase inversion temperature method (PIT). Physical and functional properties were evaluated by visual analysis, particle size distribution and by diffuse reflectance spectrophotometry. Achieved nanoemulsion showed bluish brightness aspect, less apparent consistency than macroemulsion, stability longer than 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) sizes around 10 nm (61%) and 4.5 µm (39%). Macroemulsion showed milky aspect, higher consistency than nanoemulsion, instability after 48 hours (22.0 ± 2.0 °C) and bimodal particle size distribution with average (mean) size around 202 nm (9%) and 10.4 µm (91%). Effectiveness profile of sunscreen formulations remained apparently similar, based on achieved results of in vitro SPF, UVA/UVB ratio and critical wavelength assays.

4-hydroxy-2,5-dimethylphenyl-benzophenone: conformational stability, FT-IR and Raman investigation

In this paper we have studied the 4-hydroxyl-2,5 dimethylphenyl-benzophenone. Also, it was analyzed the vibrational assignment (FT-IR and Raman) in conjunction with computational results. The conformational analysis showed three barrier heights where two are due to the dihedral rotation and the other one is attributed to hydroxyl rotation. While the high dihedral rotational barrier (TS1) is 6.06-7.22 kcal mol(-1), the lower one (TS2) is almost three times smaller. The variations with the change of basis set is 5-8% to TS1, and 3-15% in the values predicted to TS2. In the case of OH rotational barrier, the values range from 3.70 to 4.86 kcal mol(-1), and it is also observed that this transition state is less sensitive to the change of basis set and to the method. Two isomers was detected due to the changes in the OH rotation with the gap energy lower than 0.7 kcal mol(-1), and at this point is seen that semi-empirical methods fail into describe the most stable conformation which may be due to the small energy gap. The enthalpy formation at 0 K and 298 K was 111.71 and 102.20 kcal mol(-1), respectively.

Vitamin D in cutaneous carcinogenesis: part I

Skin cancer is the most common cancer in the United States. Exposure to ultraviolet radiation is a known risk factor for skin cancer but is also the principal means by which the body obtains vitamin D. Several studies have suggested that vitamin D plays a protective role in a variety of internal malignancies. With regard to skin cancer, epidemiologic and laboratory studies suggest that vitamin D and its metabolites may have a similar protective effect. These noncalcemic actions of vitamin D have called into question whether the current recommended intake of vitamin D is too low for optimal health and cancer prevention. Part I will review the role of vitamin D in the epidermis; part II will review the role of vitamin D in keratinocyte-derived tumors to help frame the discussion on the possible role of vitamin D in the prevention of skin cancer.

[Modern light protection from the view of occupational dermatology]

UV-light induced skin cancer is being more and more accepted in Germany as an occupational disease for several jobs with increased UV-light exposure. Over the past 100 years sunscreens with filters against UVB- and UVA-light have been developed. Another development is the use of antioxidants such as vitamin E, vitamin C and herbal agents for additional photoprotection. The evidence supporting these products in their topical and systemic formulation is very variable. The recent changes in the recognition of UV-induced skin cancers as occupational diseases increases the need for preventive strategies which are supported by appropriate clinical studies.

Proteção à radiação ultravioleta: recursos disponíveis na atualidade em fotoproteção

A radiação ultravioleta pode provocar danos ao DNA, imunossupressão, alterações químicas e histológicas na epiderme, envelhecimento precoce, cataratas e carcinogênese, dentre outras deteriorações. A fotoproteção previne estes e outros efeitos danosos da radiação ultravioleta. Protetores solares, vestimentas, acessórios adequados e exposição segura ao sol são ferramentas essenciais da fotoproteção. Neste artigo, são apresentadas e discutidas as principais formas de fotoproteção, incluindo os protetores solares com filtros inorgânicos e orgânicos, a avaliação da eficácia dos mesmos e atualizações envolvendo o tema