Inhibitory effect of an ellagic acid-rich pomegranate extract on tyrosinase activity and ultraviolet-induced pigmentation

Syringaresinol Attenuates α-Melanocyte-Stimulating Hormone-Induced Reactive Oxygen Species Generation and Melanogenesis

Ginseng has been utilized for centuries in both the medicinal and cosmetic realms. Recent studies have actively investigated the biological activity of ginseng berry and its constituents. (+)-Syringaresinol [(+)-SYR], an active component of ginseng berry, has been demonstrated to have beneficial effects on the skin, but its potential impact on skin pigmentation has not been fully explored. Here, the antioxidant and anti-pigmentary activity of (+)-SYR were evaluated in B16F10 murine melanoma cells and in an artificial human pigmented skin model, Melanoderm™. A real-time PCR, Western blotting, immunofluorescence staining, and histochemistry staining were conducted to confirm the effects of (+)-SYR on pigmentation. (+)-SYR reduced melanogenesis and dendrite elongation in α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-primed B16F10 cells with low cytotoxicity. (+)-SYR suppressed the expression of melanogenic genes, namely tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TRP-1), and tyrosinase-related protein 2 (TRP-2). Notably, (+)-SYR attenuated α-MSH-induced cytosolic and mitochondrial reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, which was attributable at least in part to the suppression of NADPH oxidase-4 (NOX 4) expression. Finally, the brightening activities of (+)-SYR were verified using Melanoderm™, underscoring the potential of ginseng berry and (+)-SYR as functional ingredients in skin-brightening cosmetics.

2-Mercaptonicotinoyl glycine prevents UV-induced skin darkening and delayed tanning in healthy subjects: A randomized controlled clinical study

BACKGROUND

Chronic nonextreme sun exposure induces two mechanisms of skin pigmentation, causing immediate darkening and delayed tanning. A new molecule, 2-mercaptonicotinoyl glycine (2-MNG), has been shown in vitro to inhibit both immediate darkening and new melanin synthesis via covalent conjugation of the thiol group of 2-MNG to melanin precursors.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate 2-MNG in preventing both mechanisms in vivo.

METHODS

In a randomized, intra-individual and controlled study, 33 subjects with melanin-rich skin were exposed to UV daylight on designated areas on the back and treated with a cosmetic formula containing 0.5% or 1% 2-MNG alone or 0.5% 2-MNG in association with lipohydroxy acid (LHA, 0.3%) plus Mexoryl-SX (MSX, 1.5%). The respective vehicles were used as controls and 4-n-butyl-resorcinol (4-n-BR, 2.5%) as a positive reference.

RESULTS

2-MNG alone significantly reduced immediate darkening and inhibited new melanin production when compared with vehicle, with higher performance at 1% than at 0.5%. 2-MNG at 0.5% in association with LHA and MSX showed significantly higher performance than 2-MNG 0.5% alone. 2-MNG at 0.5% and 1% showed significantly better performance than 4-n-BR.

CONCLUSIONS

2-MNG inhibited both UV-induced skin pigmentation mechanisms in vivo. The association of 2-MNG with LHA plus MSX showed the highest efficacy on melanin-rich skin with pigmentation induced by UV exposure.

Valorization of Punica granatum L. Leaves Extracts as a Source of Bioactive Molecules

Due to a lack of innovative valorization strategies, pomegranate processing generates a significant amount of residues with a negative environmental footprint. These by-products are a rich source of bioactive compounds with functional and medicinal benefits. This study reports the valorization of pomegranate leaves as a source of bioactive ingredients using maceration, ultrasound, and microwave-assisted extraction techniques. The phenolic composition of the leaf extracts was analyzed using an HPLC-DAD-ESI/MSn system. The extracts’ antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, anti-inflammatory, and skin-beneficial properties were determined using validated in vitro methodologies. The results showed that gallic acid, (-)-epicatechin, and granatin B were the most abundant compounds in the three hydroethanolic extracts (between 0.95 and 1.45, 0.7 and 2.4, and 0.133 and 3.0 mg/g, respectively). The leaf extracts revealed broad-spectrum antimicrobial effects against clinical and food pathogens. They also presented antioxidant potential and cytotoxic effects against all tested cancer cell lines. In addition, tyrosinase activity was also verified. The tested concentrations (50–400 µg/mL) ensured a cellular viability higher than 70% in both keratinocyte and fibroblast skin cell lines. The obtained results indicate that the pomegranate leaves could be used as a low-cost source of value-added functional ingredients for potential nutraceutical and cosmeceutical applications.

Pomegranate natural extract Pomanox® positively modulates skin health-related parameters in normal and UV-induced photoaging conditions in Hs68 human fibroblast cells

Skin photoaging is primarily caused by ultraviolet radiation and can lead to the degradation of skin extracellular matrix components, resulting in hyperpigmentation and skin elasticity loss. In this area, polyphenols have become of great interest because of their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antiaging properties. Here, we evaluated the effects of the pomegranate natural extract Pomanox^® on skin health-related parameters in normal and UV-induced photoaging conditions in human fibroblast Hs68 cells. Moreover, the inhibitory effects of Pomanox^® on tyrosinase activity were assessed. In normal conditions, Pomanox^® significantly modulated collagen and hyaluronic acid metabolisms. In UV-exposed cells, both preventive and regenerative treatments with Pomanox^® positively modulated hyaluronic acid metabolism and decreased ROS levels. However, only the preventive treatment modulated collagen metabolism. Finally, Pomanox^® showed a marked inhibitory capacity of tyrosinase activity (IC50 = 394.7 μg/mL). The modulation of skin health-related parameters exhibited by Pomanox^® open a wide range of potential applications of this product.

The Therapeutic Alliance between Pomegranate and Health Emphasizing on Anticancer Properties

Pomegranate is a fruit bearing-plant that is well known for its medicinal properties. Pomegranate is a good source of phenolic acids, tannins, and flavonoids. Pomegranate juice and by-products have attracted the scientific interest due to their potential health benefits. Currently, the medical community has showed great interest in exploiting pomegranate potential as a protective agent against several human diseases including cancer. This is demonstrated by the fact that there are more than 800 reports in the literature reporting pomegranate's anticancer properties. This review is an update on the research outcomes of pomegranate's potential against different types of human diseases, emphasizing on cancer. In addition, perspectives of potential applications of pomegranate, as a natural additive aiming to improve the quality of animal products, are discussed.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Duchesnea indica Extract Ameliorates LPS-Induced Septic Shock in Mice

Objective

Duchesnea indica has been reported for its anti-inflammatory properties. However, its efficacy in sepsis has yet to be reported. In this study, we studied the ability of Duchesnea indica extract (DIE) to rescue mice from septic shock and sepsis.

Methods

In vitro studies included the measurement of secreted nitric oxide, cell viability, gene and protein expression via real-time polymerase chain reaction and western blot, and confocal microscopy in RAW 264.7 cells. In vivo studies include a model of septic shock and sepsis in BALB/c mice induced by a lethal and sub-lethal dose of lipopolysaccharide (LPS).

Results

DIE suppressed the expression of proinflammatory cytokines induced by LPS and prevented the translocation of NFκB into the nucleus of RAW 264.7 cells. It also prevented reactive oxygen species damage induced by LPS in murine bone marrow-derived macrophages. Models of sepsis and septic shock were established in BALB/c mice and DIE-rescued mice from septic shock. DIE also reversed the increase in tumor necrosis factor-α and nitrite levels in the serum of mice induced with sepsis. DIE also prevented the translocation of NFκB from the cytosol into the nucleus in murine lungs. Histopathological damage induced by sepsis was reversed in the testis, liver, and lungs of mice.

Conclusion

In conclusion, DIE is a suitable candidate for development as a therapeutic agent for sepsis.

Preparation, Characterization, Solubility, and Antioxidant Capacity of Ellagic Acid-Urea Complex

Ellagic acid (EA), a natural polyphenol found in berries, has high antioxidant capacity. This study aimed to improve EA solubility by complex formation with urea (UR) using solvent evaporation method and evaluate its solubility, antioxidant capacity, and physical properties. The solubility test (25 °C, 72 h) showed that the solubility of EVP (EA/UR = 1/1) was approximately two-fold higher than that of EA (7.13 µg/mL versus 3.99 µg/mL). Moreover, the IC₅₀ values of EA and EVP (EA/UR = 1/1) (1.50 µg/mL and 1.30 µg/mL, respectively) showed higher antioxidant capacity of EVP than that of EA. DSC analysis revealed that the UR peak at 134 °C disappeared, and a new endothermic peak was observed at approximately 250 °C for EVP (EA/UR = 1/1). PXRD measurements showed that the characteristic peaks of EA at 2θ = 12.0° and 28.0° and of UR at 2θ = 22.0°, 24.3°, and 29.1° disappeared and that new peaks were identified at 2θ = 10.6°, 18.7°, and 26.8° for EVP (EA/UR = 1/1). According to 2D NOESY NMR spectroscopy, cross-peaks were observed between the -NH and -OH groups, suggesting intermolecular interactions between EA and UR. Therefore, complexation was confirmed in EA/UR = 1/1 prepared by solvent evaporation, suggesting that it contributed to the improvement in solubility and antioxidant capacity of EA.

Preparation and Characterization of a Hybrid Complex of Cyclodextrin-Based Metal-Organic Frameworks-1 and Ascorbic Acid Derivatives

Cyclodextrin-based metal–organic frameworks-1 (CD-MOF-1) prepared using potassium hydroxide, ethanol, and γ-cyclodextrin (γ-CD) has been reported as a new type of MOF for the development of pharmaceutical formulations. The present study aimed to investigate the physicochemical properties of ascorbic acid derivatives (L-ascorbyl 6-palmitate (ASCP); L-ascorbyl 2,6-palmitate (ASCDP)) complexed with CD-MOF-1 by a solvent evaporation method. Powder X-ray diffraction revealed that the crystal diffraction pattern of CD-MOF-1 changed from α-type to β-type when prepared by a solvent evaporation method. For ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2 and ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4 evaporated samples, the crystal diffraction peaks derived from ASCP and ASCDP disappeared, indicating a β-like behavior. Differential scanning calorimetry results revealed that the endothermic peaks of evaporated samples (ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2 and ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4) were not detected due to melting. Furthermore, intermolecular interactions were observed in the hydrogen bonds between the CH groups of the side chains of ASCP and ASCDP and the OH group of CD-MOF-1 in (ASCP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/2) and EVP (ASCDP/CD-MOF-1 = 1/4), based on the near-infrared absorption spectroscopy analysis. CD-MOF-1 did not form inclusion complexes with the lactone rings of ASCP and ASCDP, but with the lipophilic side chains. These results suggested that CD-MOF-1 may be useful in preparing novel drug carriers for ASCP and ASCDP.

Synthesis of ellagic acid glucoside using glucansucrase from Leuconostoc and characterization of this glucoside as a functional neuroprotective agent

Ellagic acid glucoside was synthesized via transglucosylation using sucrose and glucansucrase derived from Leuconostoc mesenteroides B-512 FMCM. After such enzymatic synthesis, the product was purified by 50% ethyl acetate fraction and C18 column chromatography. Modification of ellagic acid glucoside was verified by LC–MS/MS at m/z 485.1 (M + Na)⁻ and m/z 531.1 (M + 3Na)⁻. The yield of ellagic acid glucoside was 69% (3.47 mM) by response surface methodology using 150 mM sucrose, 300 mU/mL glucansucrase, and 5 mM ellagic acid. The synthesized ellagic acid glucoside showed improved water solubility, up to 58% higher brain nerve cell (SH-SY5Y) protective effect, threefold higher cortisol reducing effect, and fourfold stronger inhibitory effect on acetylcholinesterase (AChE) than ellagic acid. These results indicate that ellagic acid glucoside could be used as a neuroprotective agent.

Green tea infusion prevents diabetic nephropathy aggravation in recent-onset type 1 diabetes regardless of glycemic control

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Green tea, traditionally used as antidiabetic medicine, positively affects the diabetic nephropathy. It was assumed that these beneficial effects were due to the hypoglycemiant capacity of the tea, wich reduces the glycemic overload and, consequently, the advanced glycation end products rate and oxidative damage. However, these results are still controversial, since tea is not always able to exert a hypoglycemic action, as demonstrated by previous studies.

AIM

Investigate if green tea infusion can generate positive outcomes for the kidney independently of glycemic control, using a model of severe type 1 diabetes.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

We treated streptozotocin type 1 diabetic young rats with 100 mg/kg of green tea, daily, for 42 days, and evaluated the serum and tissue markers for stress and function. We also analyzed the ion dynamics in the organ and the morphological alterations promoted by diabetes and green tea treatment. Besides, we analyzed, by an in silico approach, the interactions of the green tea main catechins with the proteins expressed in the kidney.

RESULTS

Our findings reveal that the components of green tea can interact with the proteins participating in cell signaling pathways that regulate energy metabolism, including glucose and glycogen synthesis, glucose reabsorption, hypoxia management, and cell death by apoptosis. Such interaction reduces glycogen accumulation in the organ, and protects the DNA. These results also reflect in a preserved glomerulus morphology, with improvement in pathological features, and suggesting a prevention of kidney function impairment.

CONCLUSION

Our results show that such benefits are achieved regardless of the blood glucose status, and are not dependent on the reduction of hyperglycemia.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Nutritional and Bioactive Components of Pomegranate Waste Used in Food and Cosmetic Applications: A Review

Pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) is a fruit that is rich in bioactive compounds that has a biowaste (rind and seed) with the potential to be converted into value-added products in a wide variety of applications. Recent studies have demonstrated the potent antioxidant and antimicrobial effects of using pomegranate rind and seed as natural food additives, thus making researchers incorporate them into bioplastics and edible coatings for food packaging. Additionally, these components have shown great plasticizing effects on packaging materials while extending the shelf life of food through active packaging. Even within skin health applications, pomegranate seed oil and its bioactive compounds have been particularly effective in combating UV-induced stresses on animal skin and in-vitro models, where cells and microorganisms are separated from the whole organism. They have also aided in healing wounds and have shown major anti-inflammatory, analgesic, and anti-bacterial properties. This review highlights all of the relevant and recent food and skin health applications found in the value-added conversion of pomegranate biowaste. The lack of research in particular areas and future outlook are also discussed.

The Chemical Composition, Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities, and Irritation Properties of Sripanya Punica granatum Peel Extract

This is the first study to investigate the effect of ethanol concentrations on the phenolic content and biological activities of Sripanya Punica granatum peel extract. Various concentrations of ethanol, (20 to 80% v/v), were used in the maceration process. Extracts were investigated for total phenolic content by the Folin–Ciocalteu method, antioxidant activities by 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2’-azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) assay, and anti-tyrosinase activity by a spectrophotometric method. The chemical composition was investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography. The irritation of the extracts was determined by Hen’s egg test–chorioallantoic membrane assay. The results demonstrated that E60, which was extracted using 60% v/v ethanol, had the highest yield (66.23 ± 0.38% w/w), the highest total phenolic content (490.42 ± 7.20 μg GAE/g), and the highest antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activities. IC50 values on DPPH• and ABTS•+ inhibition were 10.97 ± 0.97 and 6.48 ± 0.06 µg/mL, respectively. The 60% v/v ethanol extract (E60) possessed strong tyrosinase inhibition with an IC50 value of 0.10 ± 0.13 µg/mL, which is more potent than kojic acid. The major constituents were punicalagin (4.05 ± 0.26% w/w) and ellagic acid (0.63 ± 0.04% w/w). E60 was safe for topical application since it did not induce irritation. Therefore, we suggest that E60 is a promising agent for further product development.

Pomegranate Juice and Extract Consumption Increases the Resistance to UVB-induced Erythema and Changes the Skin Microbiome in Healthy Women: a Randomized Controlled Trial

In vitro and animal studies have demonstrated that topical application and oral consumption of pomegranate reduces UVB-induced skin damage. We therefore investigated if oral pomegranate consumption will reduce photodamage from UVB irradiation and alter the composition of the skin microbiota in a randomized controlled, parallel, three-arm, open label study. Seventy-four female participants (30–45 years) with Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV were randomly assigned (1:1:1) to 1000 mg of pomegranate extract (PomX), 8 oz of pomegranate juice (PomJ) or placebo for 12 weeks. Minimal erythema dose (MED) and melanin index were determined using a cutometer (mexameter probe). Skin microbiota was determined using 16S rRNA sequencing. The MED was significantly increased in the PomX and PomJ group compared to placebo. There was no significant difference on phylum, but on family and genus level bacterial composition of skin samples collected at baseline and after 12 week intervention showed significant differences between PomJ, PomX and placebo. Members of the Methylobacteriaceae family contain pigments absorbing UV irradiation and might contribute to UVB skin protection. However, we were not able to establish a direct correlation between increased MED and bacterial abundance. In summary daily oral pomegranate consumption may lead to enhanced protection from UV photodamage.

Natural Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Role of Herbals in the Treatment of Hyperpigmentary Disorders

Cutaneous pigmentation plays critical role in determining the color of skin along with photo protection of skin from dreadful effects of ultraviolet radiations. Conversely, abnormal accumulation of melanin is responsible for hyper pigmentary disorders such as melasma, senile lentigines and freckles. Because of the visible nature of dermatologic diseases, they have a considerable psychosomatic effect on affected patients. Tyrosinase inhibitors are molecules that interrelate in some way with the enzyme to prevent it from working in the normal manner. Past many decades witnessed the quest for the development of natural tyrosinase inhibitors due to imperative role played by tyrosinase in the process of melanogenesis and fungi or fruit enzymatic browning. Mechanism of pigmentation is characterized by the intact process of the synthesis of specialized black pigment within melanosomes. Melanin is synthesized by a cascade of enzymatic and chemical reactions. For this reason, melanin production is mainly controlled by the expression and activation of tyrosinase. In the current article, we discussed tyrosinase inhibitors from the natural sources, which can be an essential constituent of cosmetics products and depigmenting agents for the treatment of hyperpigmentory disorders.

Dietary compounds and cutaneous malignant melanoma: recent advances from a biological perspective

Cutaneous malignant melanoma is a heterogeneous disease, being the consequence of specific genetic alterations along several molecular pathways. Despite the increased knowledge about the biology and pathogenesis of melanoma, the incidence has grown markedly worldwide, making it extremely important to develop preventive measures. The beneficial role of correct nutrition and of some natural dietary compounds in preventing malignant melanoma has been widely demonstrated. This led to numerous studies investigating the role of several dietary attitudes, patterns, and supplements in the prevention of melanoma, and ongoing research investigates their impact in the clinical management and outcomes of patients diagnosed with the disease. This article is an overview of recent scientific advances regarding specific dietary compounds and their impact on melanoma development and treatment.

The in vitro and in vivo depigmenting activity of Coenzyme Q10 through the down-regulation of α-MSH signaling pathways and induction of Nrf2/ARE-mediated antioxidant genes in UVA-irradiated skin keratinocytes

Coenzyme CoQ10 (CoQ10), a ubiquinone compound, has been reported to inhibit tyrosinase activity and melanin production in melanoma B16F10 cells. However, the molecular mechanism underlying this inhibitory effect is poorly understood. In this paper we aimed to investigate the molecular mechanisms involved in the anti-melanogenic activity of CoQ10 (1-2 μM) in UVA (5 J/cm²)-irradiated keratinocyte HaCaT cells and α-MSH stimulated B16-F10 cells. It was observed that CoQ10 suppressed p53/POMC, α-MSH production as well as inhibited ROS generation in UVA-irradiated keratinocyte HaCaT cells. CoQ10 down-regulated the melanin synthesis in α-MSH-stimulated B16-F10 cells by suppressing the MITF expression by down regulating the cAMP mediated CREB signaling cascades. Furthermore, in vivo evidence demonstrated the inhibitory effect of CoQ10 on endogenous pigmentation in zebrafish. Increased nuclear Nrf2 translocation accompanied by the induction of HO-1 and γ-GCLC genes were observed in CoQ10 treated keratinocyte HaCaT cells. Notably, silencing of Nrf2 (siRNA transfection) significantly diminished CoQ10-mediated anti-melanogenic activity, as evidenced by impaired antioxidant HO-1 gene, uncontrolled ROS generation, and α-MSH production following UVA irradiation. To conclude, CoQ10 is an effective de-pigmention or skin-whitening agent and could be used in cosmetics for topical application.

Transdermal BQ-788/EA@ZnO quantum dots as targeting and smart tyrosinase inhibitors in melanocytes

Tyrosinase inhibitors could effectively limit the activity of tyrosinase in melanocytes to reduce the excessive synthesis and deposition of melanin. However, low skin permeability and lacking in targeting greatly restricted their application. Herein, ZnO quantum dots were synthesized by gel-sol method and grafted with BQ-788, which have been employed as transdermal and targeting carrier to delivery ellagic acid to melanocytes. Ellagic acid loaded ZnO quantum dots with the size distribution of around 9 nm could targetedly bind to melanocytes and enter the melanocytes by endocytosis within 1 h. The ellagic acid release behavior was controlled by the decreasing of pH via the rapid dissolution of ZnO. When the concentration of BQ-788/EA@ZnO was 12.5 μg/mL, the inhibition rate on tyrosinase activity and melanin deposition were up to 44.23 ± 4.97% and 37.50 ± 5.23%, respectively. In view of their good biocompatibility, they were of great potential in clinically external application for tyrosinase inhibition.

Leathesia difformis Extract Inhibits α-MSH-Induced Melanogenesis in B16F10 Cells via Down-Regulation of CREB Signaling Pathway

Leathesia difformis (L.) Areschoug (L. difformis) is a species of littoral brown algae of the class Phaeophyceae. Only a few studies on the apoptotic, antiviral, and antioxidant properties of L. difformis have been reported, and its inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis has not been studied. The aim of this study was to investigate the anti-melanogenic effect of L. difformis extract on α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanocytes and its mechanism of action. L. difformis was extracted using 80% ethanol (LDE) and then fractioned between ethyl acetate (LDE-EA) and water (LDE-A). Our data demonstrated that LDE-EA significantly inhibited melanin level and cellular tyrosinase activity in α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. In addition, the expression of genes associated with melanin synthesis, such as microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (Mitf), tyrosinase (Tyr), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (Trp-1), dopachrome tautomerase (Dct), and melanocortin 1 receptor (Mc1r) was down-regulated by LDE-EA treatment. Moreover, LDE-EA decreased p-CREB levels, which suggests that the inhibition of the cAMP/PKA/CREB pathways may be involved in the anti-melanogenic effect of LDE-EA. Thus, this study revealed that LDE-EA is an effective inhibitor of hyperpigmentation through inhibition of CREB pathways and may be considered as a potential therapeutic agent for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Pharmacological and polyphenolic profiles of Phyllanthus phillyreifolius var. commersonii Müll. Arg: An unexplored endemic species from Mauritius

Phyllanthus phillyreifolius var. commersonii Müll. Arg is an endemic plant of Mauritius. To date, no study has been performed concerning its polyphenolic profile and pharmacological properties. In this study, a decoction (water), ethyl acetate and methanol extracts of the aerial parts of P. phillyreifolius, obtained from different extraction procedures (maceration and Soxhlet), were studied for antibacterial, antioxidant, anticancer, and enzyme inhibitory properties along with their polyphenolic profile. The ethyl acetate macerated extract showed high antibacterial activity against B. cereus (MIC = 0.293 mg/mL) and E. coli (MIC = 0.417 mg/mL) while S. epidermidis was most susceptible to the ethyl acetate-Soxhlet extract (MIC = 0.521 mg/mL). The methanol-Soxhlet extract displayed the most potent cupric and ferric reducing power, and metal chelating effect, while the macerated methanolic extract was the most effective DPPH and ABTS scavenger, and BChE inhibitor. Only the ethyl acetate-Soxhlet extract exhibited α-glucosidase inhibition. All extracts exhibited a strong anti-tyrosinase activity, which was further investigated by molecular docking and molecular dynamic. After 48 h exposure to the extracts for HeLa cell lines, the ethyl acetate-Soxhlet extract showed the highest inhibition (IC₅₀ = 533.1 μg/mL) while the decoction extract was more cytotoxic to MDA-MB-231 cells (IC₅₀ = 337.4 μg/mL). Treatment of cancer cell lines with all P. phillyreifolius extracts resulted in a time-dependent reduction of cell viability for HeLa and dose-and time-dependent reduction for MDA-MB-231. Gene expression ratio of Bcl-2 to Bax was higher for all Soxhlet-extracts. Total phenolics (TPC) and flavonoids (TFC) content were highest in the decoction and methanol-Soxhlet extract, respectively (122.43 mg GAE/g extract and 31.28 mg RE/g extract, respectively). The extracts were abundant in ellagitannins, although phenolic acids and flavonoids were also detected. Granatin B was detected for the first time in Phyllanthus species. Overall, the aerial parts of P. phillyreifolius exemplify a potent reservoir of bioactive phytochemicals for therapeutic applications.

The Potential of Using Bee Pollen in Cosmetics: a Review

During ancient times in China, bee pollen was used for skin whitening and beauty. Around 70% of substances in bee pollen are biologically active, such as proteins, carbohydrates, lipids and fatty acids, phenolic compounds, vitamins and bioelements.This review describes the cosmeceutical properties of bee pollen and the mechanism of its active components action, its beneficial influence on human skin. As a natural bee product, bee pollen may effectively enhance protective mechanisms against skin aging, skin dryness, ultraviolet B radiation, oxidative damage, inflammatory and melanogenesis, which are involved in a wide range of negative effects on human skin, thus they have attracted attention for health and cosmetic applications.

Phenolic compounds as beneficial phytochemicals in pomegranate (Punica granatum L.) peel: A review

Pomegranate peel (PoP), a juice byproduct often considered as a waste, comprises nearly around 30-40% portion of the fruit. Phenolic compounds (one class of bioactive phytochemicals) are primarily concentrated in the peel portion of pomegranate fruit. In PoP, the main phenolic compounds reported in the literature include flavonoids (anthocyanins such as pelargonidin, delphinidin, cyanidin along with their derivatives and anthoxanthins such as catechin, epicatechin and quercetin), tannins (ellagitannins and ellagic acid derivatives such as punicalagin, punicalin and pedunculagin) and phenolic acids (such as chlorogenic, caffeic, syringic, sinapic, p-coumaric, ferulic, ellagic, gallic and cinnamic acid). It is generally accepted that phenolic compounds can be more efficiently recovered from PoP by improving the extraction efficiency. The curative relevance of these compounds has been mainly assessed by in vitro experimentation. Therefore, conclusive clinical trials of the phenolic compounds present in PoP are essential for correct validation of their health benefits.

One pot environmental friendly synthesis of gold nanoparticles using Punica Granatum Juice: A novel antioxidant agent for future dermatological and cosmetic applications

HYPOTHESIS

The interesting properties of Gold Nanoparticles (AuNPs) make them attractive for different application fields such as cosmetology, medicine and clinical nanotechnologies. In this work a fast, easy and eco-friendly method for the AuNPs synthesis is proposed by using the Punica Granatum Juice (PGJ) with potential dermatological and cosmetic applications. The AuNPs antioxidant activity, due to the presence of phenols from the juice, and their use as booster for improving the Sun Protection Factor (SPF) in commercial sunscreen formulations, are thus expounded.

EXPERIMENTS

By using appropriate amounts of PGJ and HAuCl₄, under mild work conditions, AuNPs with a mean size of 100 ± 40 nm are observed and carefully characterized. Solution pH, temperature, and volume were also changed for optimizing the AuNPs formation and features. The antioxidant activity was studied, by evaluating the AuNP ability of scavenging the radical 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazylhydrate (DPPH). This finding was confirmed performing special experiments focused on the reaction between AuNPs and H₂O₂, by using suitable probes, such as 4-thiothymidine (S⁴TdR) and Cytochrome-c (Cyt-c). The SPF value was also calculated.

FINDINGS

The synthetized AuNPs showed a surface plasmon in visible range at 577 nm and resulted stable for long time in aqueous medium, also changing the pH values in the range 2-12. The studied antioxidant activity, confirmed also by performing special experiments with suitable probes, demonstrated the high performance of AuNPs. The AuNP photostability under sun irradiation is also shown. The calculated SPF values were in the range 3-18, related to AuNPs concentration in the range 1.80 × 10^-12-1.00 × 10^-11 M. The same AuNPs concentrations were used for cellular experiments. Indeed, since the AuNPs-PGJ mediated will be potentially introduced by dermal contact, dermal fibroblasts (Human Dermal Fibroblasts, HDF) and Human Microvascular Endothelial Cells (HMVEC) were used to evaluate the possible effects of these nanoparticles as a preliminary step. The results indicated that an AuNP concentrations in the range 1.80 × 10^-12-3.60 × 10^-12 M could be adopted since they do not appeared cyctotoxic.

Antioxidants in dermatology

The skin cells continuously produce, through cellular respiration, metabolic processes or under external aggressions, highly reactive molecules oxidation products, generally called free radicals. These molecules are immediately neutralized by enzymatic and non-enzymatic systems in a physiological and dynamic balance. In situations where this balance is broken, various cellular structures, such as the cell membrane, nuclear or mitochondrial DNA may suffer structural modifications, triggering or worsening skin diseases. several substances with alleged antioxidant effects has been offered for topical or oral use, but little is known about their safety, possible associations and especially their mechanism of action. The management of topical and oral antioxidants can help dermatologist to intervene in the oxidative processes safely and effectively, since they know the mechanisms, limitations and potential risks of using these molecules as well as the potential benefits of available associations.

Usefulness of Urea as a Means of Improving the Solubility of Poorly Water-Soluble Ascorbyl Palmitate

The aim of this study was to evaluate complexes of L-ascorbyl palmitate (ASCP) and urea (UR). This evaluation involved differential scanning calorimetry (DSC), powder X-ray diffraction (PXRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), near-infrared spectroscopy (NIR), a solubility test, a 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging test, and a mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay. Physicochemical evaluation revealed that ASCP/UR complexes form at a molar ratio of 1/12. The solubility test revealed that ASCP/UR complexes had increased solubility compared to ASCP. The DPPH radical scavenging test and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition assay revealed that the activity of ASCP/UR complexes was not impaired by complex formation. These results are probably due to the tetragonal crystal system of UR changing to a hexagonal crystal system and interaction with the alkyl group of ASCP.

Isolation and Purification of Condensed Tannin from the Leaves and Branches of Prunus cerasifera and Its Structure and Bioactivities

Prunus cerasifera has a rich resource and a weak utilization rate and its biological functions have been investigated. We found that the contents of total phenol (TP) in leaves and branches of Prunus cerasifera were 117.8 ± 8.8 and 100.04 ± 0.9 mg/g, respectively; the contents of soluble condensed tannin (SCT) were 73.95 ± 0.9 and 78.65 ± 4.1 mg/g, respectively; the structure of SCT containing afzelechin/epiafzelechin, catechin/epicatechin, and atechin/epicatechin as the main units and the SCT from leaves and branches exhibited better anti-tyrosinase and antioxidant activities. This study could clarify Prunus cerasifera condensed tannin resource availability and lay a theoretical foundation for its development as a natural antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor.

Structural and kinetic considerations on the catalysis of deoxyarbutin by tyrosinase

Deoxyarbutin, a potent inhibitor of tyrosinase, could act as substrate of the enzyme. Oxytyrosinase is able to hydroxylate deoxyarbutin and finishes the catalytic cycle by oxidizing the formed o-diphenol to quinone, while the enzyme becomes deoxytyrosinase, which evolves to oxytyrosinase in the presence of oxygen. This compound is the only one described that does not release o-diphenol after the hydroxylation step. Oxytyrosinase hydroxylates the deoxyarbutin in ortho position of the phenolic hydroxyl group by means of an aromatic electrophilic substitution. As the oxygen orbitals and the copper atoms are not coplanar, but in axial/equatorial position, the concerted oxidation/reduction cannot occur and the release of a copper atom to bind again in coplanar position, enabling the oxidation/reduction or release of the o-diphenol from the active site to the medium. In the case of deoxyarbutin, the o-diphenol formed is repulsed by the water due to its hydrophobicity, and so can bind correctly and be oxidized to a quinone before being released. Deoxyarbutin has been characterized with: [Formula: see text] = 1.95 ± 0.06 s-1 and [Formula: see text] = 33 ± 4 μM. Computational simulations of the interaction of β-arbutin, deoxyarbutin and their o-diphenol products with tyrosinase show how these ligands bind at the copper centre of tyrosinase. The presence of an energy barrier in the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin, which is not present in the case of β-arbutin, together with the differences in polarity and, consequently differences in their interaction with water help understand the differences in the kinetic behaviour of both compounds. Therefore, it is proposed that the release of the o-diphenol product of deoxyarbutin from the active site might be slower than in the case of β-arbutin, contributing to its oxidation to a quinone before being released from the protein into the water phase.

Cu nanoparticles synthesis using biological molecule of P. granatum seeds extract as reducing and capping agent: Growth mechanism and photo-catalytic activity

In view of extended applications of nanoparticles, the nanoparticles synthesis is an extensive research field and green synthesis is one of the co-friendly methodologies. Plant extract mediated synthesis of nanoparticles has gained much attention in current decade. In current investigation, copper nanoparticles (CuNPs) were prepared using P. granatum seeds extract (biological molecules) from copper(II) chloride salt. The synthesized CuNPs were characterized by UV-vis spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction measurements (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Energy Dispersive X- Ray Spectroscopy (EDX), Fourier transform infra-red spectroscopy (FTIR) and atomic force microscopy techniques. The CuNPs formation occurred through reduction of metal ions followed by nucleation. The size of the CuNPs was in the range of 40-80nm (average particle size was 43.9nm) with semi spherical shape and uniformly distribution. Photocatalytic activity was evaluated by degrading methylene blue dye (150mg/L) at various CuNPs doses (10mg/L-100mg/L). The synthesized CuNPs showed excellent PCA for the degradation of methylene blue (MB) under solar light irradiation and up to 87.11% degradation was achieved. The oxidative degradation mechanism for MB was proposed. In view of efficient PCA, the use of biological molecules of P. granatum seeds extracts for the synthesis of CuNPs.

Antimelanogenic Effect of Urolithin A and Urolithin B, the Colonic Metabolites of Ellagic Acid, in B16 Melanoma Cells

Antimelanogenic agents from natural sources have been widely investigated. Urolithin A (UA) and B (UB), the main gut microflora metabolites of dietary ellagic acid derivatives, have various bioactivities such as anti-inflammatory and antiaging effects. In this study, the metabolites were found to possess depigmentation efficacy by suppressing tyrosinase activity. Both UA and UB could attenuate melanogenesis in B16 melanoma cells to 55.1 ± 3.8 and 76.4 ± 17.4% of control at noncytotoxic dosage, 10 μM, respectively. UA showed comparable efficacy to positive control, 5 μM of kojic acid treatment (51.2 ± 7.8). RT-PCR results revealed that UA and UB inhibited melanin formation by affecting the catalytic activity of tyrosinase rather than its mRNA expression. Kinetics for UA and UB on tyrosinase activity revealed that their inhibition behavior toward cellular tyrosinase involved competitive inhibition. UA and UB may be potent tyrosinase inhibitors and they possess significant antimelanogenesis ability as novel skin-whitening ingredients.

Action of tyrosinase on alpha and beta-arbutin: A kinetic study

The known derivatives from hydroquinone, α and β-arbutin, are used as depigmenting agents. In this work, we demonstrate that the oxy form of tyrosinase (oxytyrosinase) hydroxylates α and β-arbutin in ortho position of the phenolic hydroxyl group, giving rise to a complex formed by met-tyrosinase with the hydroxylated α or β-arbutin. This complex could evolve in two ways: by oxidizing the originated o-diphenol to o-quinone and deoxy-tyrosinase, or by delivering the o-diphenol and met-tyrosinase to the medium, which would produce the self-activation of the system. Note that the quinones generated in both cases are unstable, so the catalysis cannot be studied quantitatively. However, if 3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone hydrochloride hydrate is used, the o-quinone is attacked, so that it becomes an adduct, which can be oxidized by another molecule of o-quinone, generating o-diphenol in the medium. In this way, the system reaches the steady state and originates a chromophore, which, in turn, has a high absorptivity in the visible spectrum. This reaction allowed us to characterize α and β-arbutin kinetically as substrates of tyrosinase for the first time, obtaining a Michaelis constant values of 6.5 ± 0.58 mM and 3 ± 0.19 mM, respectively. The data agree with those from docking studies that showed that the enzyme has a higher affinity for β-arbutin. Moreover, the catalytic constants obtained by the kinetic studies (catalytic constant = 4.43 ± 0.33 s-1 and 3.7 ± 0.29 s-1 for α and β-arbutin respectively) agree with our forecast based on 13 C NMR considerations. This kinetic characterization of α and β-arbutin as substrates of tyrosinase should be taken into account to explain possible adverse effects of these compounds.

Ellagitannins in Cancer Chemoprevention and Therapy

It is universally accepted that diets rich in fruit and vegetables lead to reduction in the risk of common forms of cancer and are useful in cancer prevention. Indeed edible vegetables and fruits contain a wide variety of phytochemicals with proven antioxidant, anti-carcinogenic, and chemopreventive activity; moreover, some of these phytochemicals also display direct antiproliferative activity towards tumor cells, with the additional advantage of high tolerability and low toxicity. The most important dietary phytochemicals are isothiocyanates, ellagitannins (ET), polyphenols, indoles, flavonoids, retinoids, tocopherols. Among this very wide panel of compounds, ET represent an important class of phytochemicals which are being increasingly investigated for their chemopreventive and anticancer activities. This article reviews the chemistry, the dietary sources, the pharmacokinetics, the evidence on chemopreventive efficacy and the anticancer activity of ET with regard to the most sensitive tumors, as well as the mechanisms underlying their clinically-valuable properties.

Action of ellagic acid on the melanin biosynthesis pathway

BACKGROUND

Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in the first steps of the melanogenesis process. It catalyzes the hydroxylation of monophenols to o-diphenols and the oxidation of the latter to o-quinones. Ellagic acid (EA) is a phenolic compound which has been described as a tyrosinase inhibitor and is used in the cosmetic industry as a whitening agent. However, it has hydroxyl groups in ortho position and could act as a substrate rather than inhibitor. This aspect should be taken into consideration when using this compound as a cosmetic ingredient due to the reactive character of o-quinones.

OBJECTIVE

To determine whether ellagic acid is a substrate or an inhibitor of tyrosinase, to characterize it kinetically and interpret its role in the melanogenesis process.

METHODS

UV-vis spectrophotometry was used to follow the action of tyrosinase on typical substrates and ellagic acid. A chronometric method was chosen for the kinetic characterization of ellagic acid.

RESULTS

Ellagic acid is not an inhibitor per se but an alternative substrate of tyrosinase. It is oxidized by the enzyme to an unstable o-quinone. Its kinetic characterization provided low Michaelis and catalytic constants (KM(EA)=138±13μM and kcat(EA)=0.47±0.02s(-1)). Furthermore, ellagic acid, which is a powerful antioxidant, may chemically reduce the o-quinones (o-dopaquinone) and semiquinones, in this way inhibiting the melanogenesis.

CONCLUSION

Ellagic acid is oxidized by tyrosinase, producing reactive o-quinones. As an antioxidant it can inhibit the melanogenesis process. This first aspect should be taken into consideration in its application as a cosmetic ingredient due to the toxicity of o-quinones and its ability to modify the redox status of the cell.