Anti-aging and Sunscreens: Paradigm Shift in Cosmetics

Visualization, Dynamicity, and Collaborative Networking of Scientific Production on Visible Light and Skin Aging: A Scientometric Analysis

Purpose: The purpose of this is to examine the visualization, dynamicity, and collaborative networking of scientific production on visible light (VL) and skin aging through scientometric analysis. Materials and Methods: This research consisted of a cross-sectional and descriptive design with a scientometric approach that examined the publication trends and collaborative patterns among authors and institutions from 2018 to 2023. A comprehensive search strategy was also employed by using specific keywords related to VL and skin aging. In this case, several indicators were employed, including scholarly output, view count, field-weighted citation impact (FWCI), and citation count. The analyses were performed by using SciVal software and R Studio version 4.3.2. Results: A total of 180 sources were identified, with 280 documents generated, indicating an annual growth rate of 6.72%. The documents, averaging 3.25 years in age, received an average of 12.14 citations, revealing their impact. Additionally, collaborations were evident, with a ratio of 5.6 coauthors per paper and 25.71% consisting of international collaborations. In terms of institutions, there were notable disparities in scholarly activities and impact metrics, highlighting the diversity of the research landscape. Meanwhile, journals, such as Photodermatology, Photoimmunology and Photomedicine, revealed a substantial impact (FWCI 2.05). Overall, the impact of the journals showed a general upward trend, reflecting dynamicity and variability over time. Conclusion: An annual growth rate of 6.72% was found, with 180 sources and 280 papers on VL and skin aging. Moreover, international collaborations, the positive impact in leading journals, and the distribution patterns identified through scientometric laws underscored the vitality and complexity of the field. These results offer valuable insights into guiding future research in this multidisciplinary field.

Microalgae-based sunscreens as green and sustainable cosmetic products

Recently, microalgal biotechnology has attained great acceptance among various researchers and industries for the green and sustainable production of different bioactive compounds. They provide multiple metabolites and molecules, making them an ideal candidate for cosmetic formulators and cosmeceutical companies. Nevertheless, numerous microalgae strains have never been studied for their pharmaceutical, nutritional and cosmeceutical purposes. Even less, only some have been cultivated on a large scale for bioactive compound production. Here, we have studied the cosmetic and cosmeceutical potentials of different microalgal strains for sunscreen as adjuvants and boosters in a green, carbon-neutral and sustainable platform. Other bioactive compounds were exploited, and the available products in the market and the published patents were also reviewed. From our review, it will be possible to combine the fundamental and practical aspects of microalgal biotechnology toward a greener and more sustainable future for the cosmetic/cosmeceutical areas of the photoprotection scenario.

Real-world experience with a treatment with a skincare regimen of products containing the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments are an important part of helping reduce facial signs of aging.

AIMS

This article highlights real-world experience with a Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer with anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, anti-erythema, and healing properties for facial skin condition improvement.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The real-world case (RWC) series presented highlights and the expert panel's clinical experience with the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen used for 12 weeks to improve facial skin conditions. The panelists convened a meeting to discuss and select RWCs from their practice using the M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen.

RESULTS

The RWC series showed that erythema and inflamed, easily irritated skin bother patients, even when it is mild. Reducing inflammation, erythema, and visible signs of facial aging and improving skin health contributed to patient satisfaction.

CONCLUSION

The M. pyrifera ferment-containing skincare regimen comprising a cleansing foam, a serum, and a moisturizer is effective in decreasing the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

Cancer Incidence Rates in the US in 2016-2020 with Respect to Solar UVB Doses, Diabetes and Obesity Prevalence, Lung Cancer Incidence Rates, and Alcohol Consumption: An Ecological Study

This article reports the results of an ecological study of cancer incidence rates by state in the US for the period 2016-2020. The goals of this study were to determine the extent to which solar UVB doses reduced cancer risk compared to findings reported in 2006 for cancer mortality rates for the periods 1950-1969 and 1970-1794 as well as cancer incidence rates for the period 1998-2002 and to determine which factors were recently associated with cancer risk. The cancer data for non-Hispanic white (European American) men and women were obtained from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention. Indices were obtained for solar UVB at the surface for July 1992, and alcohol consumption, diabetes, and obesity prevalence near the 2016-2020 period. Lung cancer incidence rates were also used in the analyses as a surrogate for smoking, diet, and air pollution. The cancers for which solar UVB is significantly associated with reduced incidence are bladder, brain (males), breast, corpus uteri, esophageal, gastric, non-Hodgkin's lymphoma, pancreatic, and renal cancer. Lung cancer was significantly associated with colorectal, laryngeal, and renal cancer. Diabetes was also significantly associated with breast, liver, and lung cancer. Obesity prevalence was significantly associated with breast, colorectal, and renal cancer. Alcohol consumption was associated with bladder and esophageal cancer. Thus, diet has become a very important driver of cancer incidence rates. The role of solar UVB in reducing the risk of cancer has been reduced due to people spending less time outdoors, wearing sunscreen that blocks UVB but not UVA radiation, and population increases in terms of overweight and obese individuals, which are associated with lower 25-hydroxyvitamin D concentrations and the generation of systemic inflammation, which is a risk factor for cancer. A dietary approach that would reduce the risk of diabetes, obesity, lung cancer, and, therefore, cancer, would be one based mostly on whole plants and restrictions on red and processed meats and ultraprocessed foods. Solar UVB exposure for a few minutes before applying sunscreen and taking vitamin D supplements would also help reduce the risk of cancer.

Participants' Experiences and Satisfaction With Sun Protection Factor (SPF) 100 Sunscreen in Actual Use Conditions

Background and objective Exposure to sunlight's ultraviolet (UV) radiation poses various health risks, including sunburn, skin damage, and heightened skin cancer risk. Sunblock usage has surged due to widespread advertising campaigns. Individuals spending time outdoors should employ protective measures like wearing hats, applying sunblock with a high sun protection factor (SPF), covering exposed skin, and seeking shade to mitigate UV exposure's harmful effects. This study's objective is to assess participants' experiences and satisfaction with SPF 100 sunscreen in actual use conditions. Methodology This study employed a prospective, single-center design involving 100 participants aged 18 to 70 years. Eligible individuals had Fitzpatrick skin types I-III and were engaged in outdoor activities, excluding those with certain medical conditions or medication use. Each participant received sunscreen tubes (Solero SPF 100, Helix Pharma Pvt. Ltd., Karachi, Pakistan), and clinical evaluations were conducted on the day before and after and day 22 visits, with sunblock application and UV-induced erythema assessments performed. Results Our study enrolled participants with a mean age of 25.6 ± 7.1 years, ranging from 15 to 55 years, with females comprising 84% (84) of the sample. Results revealed widespread satisfaction and acceptance of SPF 100 sunscreen, without any reported adverse reactions. A significant majority expressed their willingness to purchase and recommend the sunscreen to others. Furthermore, the majority of healthcare providers expressed satisfaction with prescribing this sunscreen.  Conclusions In conclusion, SPF 100 sunscreen demonstrated excellent tolerability and acceptability among participants, suggesting its potential utility in both personal sun protection routines and clinical settings.

The use of natural extracts with photoprotective activity: a 2015-2023 patent prospection

Synthetic sunscreen offers protection against excessive exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from the sun, and protects the skin from possible damage. However, they have low efficacy against the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are highly reactive molecules that can be generated in the skin when it is exposed to UV radiation, and are known to play a role in oxidative stress, which can contribute to skin aging and damage. Thus, there is an ongoing search for sunscreens that do not have these negative effects. One promising source for these is natural products. Therefore, the current patent review summarizes topical formulations made from natural compounds that have antioxidant properties and can be used as photoprotective or anti-aging agents, either using a single natural extract or a combination of extracts. The review reports basic patent information (applicant country, type of applicant, and year of filing) and gives details about the invention, including its chemical composition, and the in vitro and in vivo tests performed. These patents describe natural products that can be used to protect the skin and validate their efficacy, and safety, in addition to standardizing their formulations. The compositions described illustrate the consistent innovation in the use of natural products to protect against UV damage and photoaging disorders, a promising field which is receiving growing global recognition.

New trends on personalized sunscreens

BACKGROUND/PURPOSE

Nowadays, there are emerging trends in customized and personalized photoprotection, focusing on the innovative approaches to enhance sun protection efficacy tailored to individual needs.

METHODS

We conducted an electronic search of the following databases: MEDLINE, EMBASE, Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, Cochrane Skin Group Specialised Skin Register, and TESEO. Specific search terms related to personalized photoprotection and the variables of age, genetic predisposition, skin phototype, photodermatosis, and physiological conditions such as pregnancy, as well as lifestyle habits were used.

RESULTS/CONCLUSION

The article highlights the challenges and opportunities in adopting personalized photoprotection strategies, aiming to promote skin health and prevent the harmful effects of UV radiation in the era of precision medicine.

Innovative snail-mucus-extract (SME)-coated nanoparticles exhibit anti-inflammatory and anti-proliferative effects for potential skin cancer prevention and treatment

Nowadays, several studies have highlighted the ability of snail mucus in maintaining healthy skin conditions due to its emollient, regenerative and protective properties. In particular, mucus derived from H. aspersa muller has been reported to have beneficial effects such as antioxidant, antimicrobial activity and wound repair capacity. To enhance antioxidant activity of snail mucus, it was extracted in a hydroalcoholic solution and consequently freeze-dried. The obtained snail mucus extract (SME) was indeed endowed with higher antioxidant activity observed in cell-free models, however it was not possible to test its effects in cellular models as it creates a thick film on the cell surface. Therefore, in order to enhance beneficial effects of snail mucus and extend its potential use, SME was used to develop snail mucus extract-coated gold nanoparticles (AuNPs-SME) which exhibited anti-inflammatory properties on non-tumorigenic cells. LPS-induced inflammation in human NCTC keratinocytes was used as model to investigate the in vitro cytoprotective effects of nanoparticles. Co-treatment with LPS and AuNPs-SME significantly reduced pro-inflammatory cytokine transcription. Moreover, we demonstrated that AuNPs-SME not only can be used for anti-inflammatory treatments, but also as a sunscreen and antioxidant for potential cosmetic applications. Furthermore, AuNPs-SME's ability to selectively inhibit the growth of two human melanoma cell lines without affecting immortalized human keratinocyte viability in the same conditions was assessed. Thus, we demonstrated that snail mucus is suitable for creating innovative formulations and it can be considered a valid candidate for cosmeceutical applications to enrich the snail mucus based anti-age and sunscreen products already present on the market. Moreover, innovative formulations containing snail mucus can be potentially used for the treatment of specific skin neoplasms.

Hesperidin from Orange Peel as a Promising Skincare Bioactive: An Overview

The pursuit for better skin health, driven by collective and individual perceptions, has led to the demand for sustainable skincare products. Environmental factors and lifestyle choices can accelerate skin aging, causing issues like inflammation, wrinkles, elasticity loss, hyperpigmentation, and dryness. The skincare industry is innovating to meet consumers' requests for cleaner and natural options. Simultaneously, environmental issues concerning waste generation have been leading to sustainable strategies based on the circular economy. A noteworthy solution consists of citrus by-product valorization, as such by-products can be used as a source of bioactive molecules. Citrus processing, particularly, generates substantial waste amounts (around 50% of the whole fruit), causing unprecedented environmental burdens. Hesperidin, a flavonoid abundant in orange peels, is considered to hold immense potential for clean skin health product applications due to its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anticarcinogenic properties. This review explores hesperidin extraction and purification methodologies as well as key skincare application areas: (i) antiaging and skin barrier enhancement, (ii) UV radiation-induced damage, (iii) hyperpigmentation and depigmentation conditions, (iv) wound healing, and (v) skin cancer and other cutaneous diseases. This work's novelty lies in the comprehensive coverage of hesperidin's promising skincare applications while also demonstrating its potential as a sustainable ingredient from a circular economy approach.

Interaction between the microbiota and the skin barrier in aging skin: a comprehensive review

The interplay between the microbes and the skin barrier holds pivotal significance in skin health and aging. The skin and gut, both of which are critical immune and neuroendocrine system, harbor microbes that are kept in balance. Microbial shifts are seen with aging and may accelerate age-related skin changes. This comprehensive review investigates the intricate connection between microbe dynamics, skin barrier, and the aging process. The gut microbe plays essential roles in the human body, safeguarding the host, modulating metabolism, and shaping immunity. Aging can perturb the gut microbiome which in turn accentuates inflammaging by further promoting senescent cell accumulation and compromising the host's immune response. Skin microbiota diligently upholds the epidermal barrier, adeptly fending off pathogens. The aging skin encompasses alterations in the stratum corneum structure and lipid content, which negatively impact the skin's barrier function with decreased moisture retention and increased vulnerability to infection. Efficacious restoration of the skin barrier and dysbiosis with strategic integration of acidic cleansers, emollients with optimal lipid composition, antioxidants, and judicious photoprotection may be a proactive approach to aging. Furthermore, modulation of the gut-skin axis through probiotics, prebiotics, and postbiotics emerges as a promising avenue to enhance skin health as studies have substantiated their efficacy in enhancing hydration, reducing wrinkles, and fortifying barrier integrity. In summary, the intricate interplay between microbes and skin barrier function is intrinsically woven into the tapestry of aging. Sound understanding of these interactions, coupled with strategic interventions aimed at recalibrating the microbiota and barrier equilibrium, holds the potential to ameliorate skin aging. Further in-depth studies are necessary to better understand skin-aging and develop targeted strategies for successful aging.

Anti-aging Strategies and Topical Delivery of Biopolymer-based Nanocarriers for Skin Cancer Treatment

Environmental factors like UV radiation and epigenetic changes are significant factors for skin cancer that trigger early aging. This review provides essential information on cancer development concerning aging, the receptors involved, and the therapeutic targets. Biopolymers like polysaccharide, polyphenols, proteins, and nucleic acid plays a vital role in the regulation of normal cell homeostasis. Therefore, it is pertinent to explore the role of biopolymers as antiaging formulations and the possibility of these formulations being used against cancer via topical administrations. As UV radiation is one of the predominant factors in causing skin cancer, the association of receptors between aging and cancer indicated that insulin receptor, melatonin receptor, toll-like receptor, SIRT 1 receptor, tumor-specific T cell receptor and mitochondria-based targeting could be used to direct therapeutics for suppression of cancer and prevent aging. Biopolymer-based nanoformulations have tremendously progressed by entrapment of drugs like curcumin and resveratrol which can prevent cancer and aging simultaneously. Certain protein signaling or calcium and ROS signaling pathways are different for cancer and aging. The involvement of mitochondrial DNA mutation along with telomere shortening with a change in cellular energetics leading to genomic instability in the aging process can also induce mitochondrial dysfunction and epigenetic alterations leading to skin cancer. Therefore, the use of biopolymers as a topical supplement during the aging process can result in the prevention of cancer.

The efficacy of antiaging cream with Oxalis dehradunensis R. ethanolic extract as skin aging care among woman agriculture workers

Skin damage and aging are potential health problems for woman agriculture workers. This study aimed to test the efficacy of Oxalis dehradunensis ethanol extract formulated in antiaging cream preparations as an aging treatment in women agriculture workers. The method carried out was an experimental study on woman agriculture workers who were willing to volunteer. The experimental scenario conducted related to the physical quality of antiaging cream products and the efficacy of creams on the skin as an antiaging treatment. Physical quality parameters of antiaging cream include organoleptic assessment, cream emulsion, homogeneity, viscosity, pH, distribution, and skin irritation test to evaluate potential side effects. Skin aging efficacy assessments were conducted on 12 subjects divided into four formula concentration groups. The physical skin identification parameters measured are moisture, pore size, pigmentation or spots, and wrinkles using a skin analyzer. The results found that O. dehradunensis leaf extract formulated as an antiaging cream can neutralize free radicals and is an effective countermeasure against premature skin aging. There were significant differences in the skin characteristics of woman agriculture workers who participated as samples. The formula with 5% concentrate and 7% extract of O. dehradunensis has provided a reaction and is more effective in continuous treatment. It provides skin moisture changes of more than 300%, disguises pore size and good pigmentation, and reduces wrinkles of farmers who are constantly exposed to chemicals and free radicals in their agricultural activities. The leaf extracts antiaging cream showed more significant changes in moisture and skin pigmentation. It was concluded that the use of O. dehradunensis leaf extract as the core ingredient of antiaging cream can be an innovation that is beneficial to the health of the farming community, especially among women agriculture workers.

Exploring the potential of the nano-based sunscreens and antioxidants for preventing and treating skin photoaging

Excessive exposure to sunlight, especially UV irradiation, causes skin photodamage. Sunscreens, such as TiO2 and ZnO, can potentially prevent UV via scattering, reflection, and absorption. Topical antioxidants are another means of skin photoprotection. Developing nanoparticles for sunscreens and antioxidants is recommended for photoaging prevention and treatment as it can improve uncomfortable skin appearance, stability, penetration, and safety. This study reviewed the effects of nano-sized sunscreens and antioxidants on skin photoprevention by examining published studies and articles from PubMed, Scopus, and Google Scholar, which explore the topics of skin photoaging, skin senescence, UV radiation, keratinocyte, dermal fibroblast, sunscreen, antioxidant, and nanoparticle. The researchers of this study also summarized the nano-based UV filters and therapeutics for mitigating skin photoaging. The skin photodamage mechanisms are presented, followed by the introduction of current skin photoaging treatment. The different nanoparticle types used for topical delivery were also explored in this study. This is followed by the mechanisms of how nanoparticles improve the UV filters and antioxidant performance. Lastly, recent investigations were reviewed on nanoparticulate sunscreens and antioxidants in skin photoaging management. Sunscreens and antioxidants for topical application have different concepts. Topical antioxidants are ideal for permeating into the skin to exhibit free radical scavenging activity, while UV filters are prescribed to remain on the skin surface without absorption to exert the UV-blocking effect without causing toxicity. The nanoparticle design strategy for meeting the different needs of sunscreens and antioxidants is also explored in this study. Although the benefits of using nanoparticles for alleviating photodamage are well-established, more animal-based and clinical studies are necessary.

Novel roles of bovine milk-derived exosomes in skin antiaging

BACKGROUND

Exosomes are small vesicles released from cells and are found in various mammalian biological fluids, such as bovine milk, which has been employed in skincare for many years, apart from its dairy applications. In addition, exosomes have been recognized as vehicles for intercellular communication.

AIMS

In this study, we aimed to investigate the novel effects of bovine milk-derived exosomes (MK-Exo) on antiaging in human skin.

METHODS

Initially, MK-Exo were co-cultured with keratinocytes and fibroblasts; subsequent analysis involved qPCR and western blotting to assess induced gene expression. Subsequently, MK-Exo were topically applied to the facial skin of 31 female volunteers twice daily for 28 days. The functions were evaluated after conducting safety assessments in vivo.

RESULTS

Purified MK-Exo demonstrated the ability to be taken up directly by keratinocytes and fibroblasts in vitro, resulting in the upregulation of natural factors associated with skin moisturization, including filaggrin (FLG), aquaporin 3 (AQP3), and CD44 in keratinocytes, as well as hyaluronidase (HAS2) in fibroblasts. Concurrently, MK-Exo promoted fibroblast cell migration and restored the expression of type I and III collagen (Col I and Col III) following exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, phototoxicity, photoallergy, repeated skin irritation, skin allergy, and patch tests confirmed the safety of MK-Exo for skin application. Finally, we elucidated the roles of MK-Exo in preserving moisture and reducing wrinkles in humans.

CONCLUSION

Our findings unveil the novel contributions of MK-Exo to human skin aging, presenting a new avenue in the field of skincare.

Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing creams for optimizing facial skin rejuvenation

BACKGROUND

There is an increasing demand for facial skin rejuvenation. Specialized aesthetic skincare treatments may be one of the first steps to help prevent or treat facial signs of aging. This article discusses aesthetic skin care for facial skin rejuvenation, particularly data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment.

METHODS

The authors convened a dermatology advisory board to discuss challenges and practices in using skincare for facial rejuvenation, combining their expert opinion and experience on facial rejuvenation with preclinical and clinical data on two creams containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and a review of the literature.

RESULTS

Preclinical and clinical studies on Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and two creams containing the ferment exhibit anti-inflammatory, anti-aging, and healing properties. In preclinical studies, the ferment demonstrated collagen type I enhancing properties in ex vivo skin models, and skin cells treated with the ferment migrated faster than untreated cells in the in vitro study. In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, the ferment alone and the ferment-containing products significantly decreased erythema, and in anti-aging studies, they improved visible skin aging parameters. Finally, in clinical studies on the stratum corneum, the two creams increased moisture levels and decreased transepidermal water loss (TEWL), reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery.

CONCLUSIONS

The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and creams containing the ferment are effective skin care treatment products to decrease the visible effects of inflammation and signs of aging while promoting healing by enhancing barrier resilience and recovery.

A Cost-Based Analysis of Anti-aging Products Across Four Major United States Retailers

Background In the field of aesthetic dermatology, there is currently very little data on affordability and cost analysis regarding cosmeceuticals as more demand from patients showing interest in cosmeceutical products to reduce and prevent aging continues to grow. Photoaging, a form of extrinsic aging from sun exposure, can be ameliorated by applying sunscreen and retinol products. Topical ascorbic acid and niacinamide have been shown to target the oxidative stress process that contributes to photoaging. These four products have been identified as the cosmeceutical ingredients with the most evidence-based data on photoaging prevention and treatment. Objective Given the demand for effective skin care, the paucity of data on cost differentiation, and the availability of cosmeceutical products, we analyzed the unit cost of four anti-aging products from major online and physical retailers in the United States. Such a cost comparison may facilitate more economically appropriate recommendations on skin care to consumers. Methods and materials We analyzed sunscreen, topical vitamin C (ascorbic acid), topical vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and topical vitamin A (retinol) products sold by four major United States retailers: Walmart, Ulta, Walgreens, and Amazon. The average cost in dollars per ounce (dollar/oz) was calculated for each product category at each retailer. Statistical analyses were done to determine statistical significance for each product category between retailers as well as between each category of product. Results Between the four retailers, Walmart offered the lowest cost per ounce for every product. In contrast, Amazon offered the highest cost per ounce for every product except for sunscreen. We also found that sunscreen products are less expensive per ounce as compared to retinol, ascorbic acid, and niacinamide products. Conclusion Dermatologists should be knowledgeable of product costs when providing patients with anti-aging product recommendations. Our study provides data on the financial cost by retail location of evidence-based anti-aging cosmeceuticals to better guide physicians in patient consulting and economical resource sharing.

Taif Rose Oil Ameliorates UVB-Induced Oxidative Damage and Skin Photoaging in Rats via Modulation of MAPK and MMP Signaling Pathways

Short-wave UVB (ultraviolet B) causes rapid oxidative damage to the skin. Rose water is obtained mainly from the petals of Rosa damascena Mill. (Rosaceae) and used traditionally to hydrate dry skin and reduce signs of aging. This work aimed at evaluating the possible protective potential of the prepared eco-friendly Taif rose oil nanoemulsion (ROSE-NANO) against UVB-induced photoaging in adult male Wistar rats. Taif rose oil (ROSE) was obtained from R. damascene by classical steam distillation and formulated in emulgel (100 mg/g). In addition, the oil was formulated in ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel (50 and 100 mg/g) to enhance the effect of ROSE. All prepared formulas were tested topically for their potential protective effect in UV-induced skin photoaging. The obtained results demonstrated that application of ROSE-NANO-loaded emulgel resulted in superior antiaging potency over ROSE emulgel based on histological studies as well as biochemical evaluations via amendment in CAT and SOD activities, decreasing the concentration of the inflammatory markers and preventing collagen fragmentation through reduction of MMP-9 content in fibroblasts. Moreover, a significant decrease in mRNA expression of NF-KB, JNK, ERK1/2, and p38 MAPK genes was observed. In conclusion, the current study provides scientific evidence for the traditional use of rose oil in skin aging. Moreover, the NANO formula showed promising efficacy as a skin photoprotector against UV-induced oxidative damage and skin aging.

Knowledge, Attitude, and Practice of Skin Care Among Elderly Patients in Riyadh, Saudi Arabia

As people age, the likelihood that they will experience maladies of the skin increases. It is therefore important that older individuals possess the necessary knowledge and proper attitudes and practices regarding their skincare. The purpose of this study was to examine such knowledge, attitudes, and practices among older members of the Saudi Arabian population. The results of the study showed that among the majority of the participants, skincare practices could be considered insufficient and, surprisingly, elderly men undertake better skincare practices than women of this age category. It is recommended that more should be done to educate those within the older Saudi population regarding skin care practices.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Comprehensive Phytochemical Analysis and Bioactivity Evaluation of Padina boergesenii: Unveiling Its Prospects as a Promising Cosmetic Component

Marine macroalgae, such as Padina boergesenii, are gaining recognition in the cosmetics industry as valuable sources of natural bioactive compounds. This study aimed to investigate the biochemical profile of P. boergesenii and evaluate its potential as a cosmetic ingredient. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR), gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GCMS), and high-resolution liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry quadrupole time-of-flight (HRLCMS QTOF) analyses were employed to assess the functional groups, phycocompounds, and beneficial compounds present in P. boergesenii. Pigment estimation, total phenol and protein content determination, DPPH antioxidant analysis, and tyrosinase inhibition assay were conducted to evaluate the extracts' ability to counteract oxidative stress and address hyperpigmentation concerns. Elemental composition and amino acid quantification were determined using inductively coupled plasma atomic emission spectrometry (ICP-AES) and HRLCMS, respectively. FTIR spectroscopy confirmed diverse functional groups, including halo compounds, alcohols, esters, amines, and acids. GCMS analysis identified moisturizing, conditioning, and anti-aging compounds such as long-chain fatty alcohols, fatty esters, fatty acids, and hydrocarbon derivatives. HRLCMS QTOF analysis revealed phenolic compounds, fatty acid derivatives, peptides, terpenoids, and amino acids with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and skin-nourishing properties. Elemental analysis indicated varying concentrations of elements, with silicon (Si) being the most abundant and copper (Cu) being the least abundant. The total phenol content was 86.50 µg/mL, suggesting the presence of antioxidants. The total protein content was 113.72 µg/mL, indicating nourishing and rejuvenating effects. The ethanolic extract exhibited an IC50 value of 36.75 μg/mL in the DPPH assay, indicating significant antioxidant activity. The methanolic extract showed an IC50 value of 42.784 μg/mL. Furthermore, P. boergesenii extracts demonstrated 62.14% inhibition of tyrosinase activity. This comprehensive analysis underscores the potential of P. boergesenii as an effective cosmetic ingredient for enhancing skin health. Given the increasing use of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics, further exploration of P. boergesenii's potential in the cosmetics industry is warranted to leverage its valuable properties.

Beauty from within: Improvement of skin health and appearance with Lycomato a tomato-derived oral supplement

BACKROUND

Healthy and a youthful appearance is a common desire of the aging population. "Beauty from within" involves using nutrition and nutraceuticals to support skin function for reducing and reversing signs of aging such as wrinkles, pigmentary changes, skin laxity, and dullness. Carotenoids possess strong antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities and are effective in improving skin barrier and could thereby stimulate "beauty from within" by providing endogenous support to reduce the expressions of aging.

AIM

This study was designed to determine whether 3-month supplementation with Lycomato would improve skin condition.

METHOD

A panel of 50 female subjects used Lycomato capsules as nutritional supplements for 3 months. Skin status was observed via questionnaires for the assessment of skin condition and expert visual grading of facial markers such as wrinkles, tonality, roughness, laxity, and pore size. Skin barrier was assessed using transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Measurements were obtained before treatment and after 4 and 12 weeks of use.

RESULTS

Results indicated a statistically significant improvement (p < 0.05) in skin barrier as measured by TEWL after 12 weeks of consuming the supplement. There was also a significant improvement in skin tonality, lines and wrinkles, pore size, and skin firmness as observed by expert evaluation as well as subject self-assessment.

CONCLUSION

Based on the confines and conditions of this study, oral supplementation with Lycomato resulted in significant improvement in skin barrier. Visual appearance of lines and wrinkles, skin tonality, pores, smoothness, and firmness were considerably improved, and these improvements were found to be substantially discernible by the subjects.

Anti-wrinkle properties of Angelica gigas Nakai root extracts using mineral-rich water

BACKGROUND

Angelica gigas Nakai is used as an herbal pharmaceutical material in Korea.

AIMS

To investigate the anti-wrinkle effects of A. gigas Nakai root extracts (ARE) using mineral-rich water in in vitro and clinical trials.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

The cell viability of ARE was evaluated using a water-soluble tetrazolium salt assay. After evaluating ARE's cytotoxicity, we used an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay kit to assess the effects of ARE on type I collagen in human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). During a double-blinded in vivo clinical study, participants were randomly assigned to use the sample and placebo formulations for the left and right sides of their face over an 8-week period. We evaluated the anti-wrinkle properties of the formulations using PRIMOS Lite and a global photodamage score.

RESULTS

A. gigas Nakai root extracts cytotoxicity was evaluated in HDFs. We demonstrate that ARE increased type I collagen production by 40% at 50 μg/ml as compared with the control. The use of an ARE lotion significantly reduced the presence of crow's feet wrinkles in comparison with the use of the placebo after 8 weeks. Additionally, use of the ARE lotion led to decreased photodamage scores, indicating anti-wrinkle effects.

CONCLUSION

The use of ARE with mineral-rich water has anti-wrinkle effects in in vitro and clinical trials.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Combining Topical and Oral Botanicals for Skin Redness, Pigmentation, Sleep, and Mood: A Randomized Controlled Study

External and internal stressors have been found to adversely affect skin health and overall wellness. There is growing interest in the use of anti-inflammatory and antioxidant plant-derived ingredients, such as ashwagandha, saffron, l-theanine, and tocopherol, to mitigate the impact of these stressors. In this study, we evaluate the effectiveness of oral and topical products (InnerCalm and SuperCalm, respectively) that contain naturally derived ingredients on skin redness, skin pigmentation, sleep, and mood in healthy females with Fitzpatrick skin type 1−4 and self-perceived sensitive skin. Subjects were randomized to an oral (oral group), a topical (topical group), or a combination of both the oral and topical interventions (combined group). Standardized photography-based image analysis was used to assess skin redness and pigment. Self-assessments of mood and sleep were measured with the abbreviated profile of mood states (POMS) questionnaire, and the Pittsburgh sleep-quality index (PSQI), respectively. Assessments were made at the baseline, 1-week, 4-weeks, and 8-weeks of the intervention. The average facial redness decreased in the topical group at 8-weeks (p < 0.001) and in the combined group at 4-weeks (p < 0.05) and 8-weeks (p < 0.001), relative to the baseline. The average facial pigmentation decreased in the oral (p < 0.05) and combined (p < 0.05) cohorts at 8-weeks, relative to the baseline. The oral group exhibited an improvement in sleep quality at 1-week relative to the baseline (p < 0.05) and at 8-weeks relative to the baseline (p < 0.05). Finally, the combined group demonstrated improvement in fatigue (p < 0.01) and confusion (p < 0.05) at 8-weeks relative to the baseline, though total mood disturbance increased in all 3 groups over the course of the study. Measured outcomes relating to mood may be confounded with the timing of the study, which ran during the COVID pandemic. Overall, we demonstrate the role of oral and topical herbs and of nutraceuticals for skin health and wellness. Further research will be needed to elucidate synergistic effects in oral and topical combination regimens.

Characteristics and in vitro anti skin aging activity and UV radiation protection of morin loaded in niosomes

BACKGROUND

One of the dermatologic problems in elderly people is skin aging, which is a natural and complex biological process. Morin is a flavonoid with high radical scavenging activity as well as antityrosinase effects but its low water solubility has restricted its application.

AIMS

This research aimed to develop, characterize, and optimize morin niosomes composed of non-ionic surfactants, and evaluate the in vitro UV protection and antiaging effectiveness.

METHODS

Niosomes were prepared by the film hydration method with sorbitan monostearate (Span® 40), polyoxyethylenesorbitan monopalmitate (Tween® 40), and cholesterol. The niosomes were characterized in terms of size, zeta potential, morphology, in vitro release behavior, and drug entrapment efficiency (EE). Afterward, antiaging activity, including antityrosinase, antioxidant, intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging, and sun protection factor (SPF) were evaluated.

RESULTS

The optimized niosomes appeared as unilamellar vesicles with a spherical shape, with size, zeta potential, and EE values of 6.13 ± 0.40 μm, -0.81 ± 0.32 mV, and 89.35% ± 2.80%, respectively. The noisome formulation remained stable at -4°C for 3 months. The release profiles of morin loaded in niosomes revealed the extended release over 8 h and followed zero-order release kinetics. Morin-loaded niosomes exhibited no significant toxicity toward the L929 cell line. The niosome loaded with morin showed anti skin aging activity, including antityrosinase effects (IC50 = 13.17 ± 1.58 μg/ml), antioxidant (IC50 = 28.49 ± 2.05 μg/ml), and ROS scavenging activity. For 1% and 5% (w/w) morin niosomes in eucerin base cream, the SPF was 39.03 ± 1.01 and 38.15 ± 0.82, respectively, whereas the noisome-free morin cream exhibited an SPF of 4.47 ± 0.56.

CONCLUSION

Morin-loaded niosome has been shown to provide sun protection and antiaging effects, suggesting that it could be used in pharmaceutical and cosmetic products.

Glycyrrhizic acid Poly(D,L-lactide-co-glycolide) nanoparticles: anti-aging cosmeceutical formulation for topical applications

Glycyrrhizic acid (GA) is one of the components of licorice roots (Glycyrrhiza glabra L.). GA is a triterpenoid saponin can be used as a medicinal plant with its antiallergic, antiviral, anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcer, hepatoprotective, anticancer, anti-oxidation activities and several other therapeutic properties. The aim of this study is to develop an anti-aging formulation for topical application containing GA. In this context, GA-loaded Poly (D,L-lactide-co-glycolide) (PLGA) nanoparticles (NPs) were prepared using the double emulsion method, and were characterized by various spectroscopic methods. The efficacy of GA-PLGA NPs was evaluated with in vitro and in silico methods. The encapsulation efficiency and loading capacity were calculated. The in vitro release study was conducted, and the GA release profile was determined. The genotoxic activity of GA and GA-PLGA NPs was evaluated by the Ames test using TA98 and TA100 mutant strains of Salmonella typhimurium. The cytotoxic potential of GA-PLGA NPs was evaluated on the HaCaT cell line using the MTT assay. According to the genotoxicity and cytotoxicity results, it was found that the GA-PLGA NP formulation did not exhibit genotoxic and cytotoxic effects. Moreover, the efficacy of GA in preventing UVB-induced photo-aging in HaCaT cells and the clarification of the molecular mechanism of GA binding to MMPs were revealed by molecular docking analysis. In addition, through molecular dynamics (MD) analysis, the binding interaction of GA with MMPs in a dynamic system, and protein-ligand stability were predicted as a result of 50 ns MD simulation studies considering various analysis parameters. Finally, it was evaluated that GA-PLGA nanoformulation might be used as an alternative anti-aging skin care product candidate via topical application.

Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils

Photoprotective agents obtained from plants provide benefits for the health of the skin. The present study aims to assess the total phenolic content (TPC) and in vitro UV-protective properties of twelve essential oils (EOs) from plants grown in Colombia and to evaluate the antioxidant and cytotoxic potential of two species identified as photoprotective potentials: Cymbopogon flexuosus and Tagetes lucida. The composition of EOs was studied by GC/MS. The cytotoxicity of both EOs was examined using an MTT assay, and an H2-DCFDA probe was employed to estimate the intracellular production of ROS in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells. Major constituents (≥10%) were neral, geranial, geranyl acetate in C. flexuosus and estragole in T. lucida. The TPC for C. flexuosus and T. lucida EOs were ≥10 mg GAE/g of byproduct. Both EOs showed photoprotective properties (SPFin vitro: 13−14), and long-wavelength UVA protection (λc > 370 nm). HepG2 and Calu-1 cells exposed to C. flexuosus exhibited antiproliferative activity (˂50%) at 125 µg/mL, while T. lucida was at 250 and 500 µg/mL. The IC50 values for C. flexuosus were 75 and 100 µg/mL in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells, respectively, whereas those for T. lucida were >250 µg/mL. These EOs achieved significant inhibitory effects (between 15.6 and 40.4%) against H2O2-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that EO compounds recognized as antioxidants could counteract the effects elicited by H2O2.

Usage Patterns and Self-Esteem of Female Consumers of Antiaging Cosmetic Products

Aging is an irreversible process of the human body, resulting from a progressive decrease in the biological functions of the organs, including the skin. This study analyzed the relationship between usage patterns of different types of anti-aging cosmetic products, sociodemographic variables, appearance schemes, psychological morbidity, perfectionism, and aging perception of aging with self-esteem. This cross-sectional study included a sample of 260 women, aged between 25 and 64 years, who are users of anti-aging cosmetics and/or aesthetic treatments. Participants were assessed on psychological morbidity (Hospital Anxiety and Depression Scale), appearance schemes (Appearance Schemas Inventory—Revised), perfectionism (Frost Multidimensional Perfectionism Scale), aging perceptions (Brief Aging Perceptions Questionnaire), and self-esteem (Rosenberg Self-Esteem Scale). The use of facial-firming cosmetics positively correlated with self-esteem. The results of regression analysis revealed that psychological morbidity and perfectionism contribute negatively to self-esteem, while marital status, professional status, and aging perceptions (positive consequences) contribute positively. According to the results, intervention programs to promote women’s self-esteem should focus on the reduction in psychological morbidity and the promotion of adaptive patterns of perfectionism and address aging perceptions. Longitudinal studies might help explain the complex relationship between the use of anti-aging cosmetic products and psychological variables, particularly self-esteem in women.

Recent Updates on Nanocosmeceutical Skin Care and Anti-Aging Products

Nanotechnology is an innovative area of science that deals with things smaller than 100 nanometers. The influence of nanotechnology in the cosmetic industry is overwhelming since it can enhance the properties attained by the particles at the nano level which includes color, solubility, etc, and also promotes the bioavailability of API. A plethora of nanomaterials can be employed in cosmetics including organic and inorganic nanoparticles. Unlike orthodox carriers, they facilitate easy penetration of the product into the skin and thereby increasing the stability and allowing a controlled drug release so that they can permeate deeper into the skin and start revitalizing it. Nanomaterials rejuvenate the skin by forming an occlusive barrier to inhibit the loss of water from the skin's surface and thereby moisturize the skin. Nano-cosmeceuticals are used to provide better protection against UV radiation, facilitate deeper skin penetration, and give long-lasting effects. Although they still have some safety concerns, hence detailed characterization or risk assessments are required to fulfill the standard safety requirements. In this review, an attempt is made to make a brief overview of various nanocosmeceutical skincare and anti-aging products.

Sustainability in Skin Care: Incorporation of Avocado Peel Extracts in Topical Formulations

The avocado peel is an agro-industrial by-product that has exhibited a massive increase in its production in the last few years. The reuse and valorisation of this by-product are essential since its disposal raises environmental concerns. In the present study, ethanolic extracts of avocado peels of the Hass variety were obtained, for three extraction times (1.5 h, 3 h and 4 h) and analysed for their antioxidant and antibacterial properties. Antioxidant evaluations of the extracts revealed that the extraction time of 1.5 h exhibited the best results amongst the three, with a DPPH inhibition percentage of 93.92 ± 1.29 and an IC₅₀ percentage, the necessary concentration of the extract to inhibit 50% of DPPH, of 37.30 ± 1.00. The antibacterial capacity of the extracts was evaluated and it was revealed that they were able to inhibit the growth and development of bacteria of the Staphylococcus family. The obtained extract was incorporated in two types of cosmetic formulations (oil-in-water and water-in-oil) and their stability was evaluated and compared with formulations containing synthetic preservatives (BHT and phenoxyethanol). The results of the stability evaluation suggest that the avocado peel extract has the potential to be incorporated in both types of emulsions, acting as an antioxidant and antibacterial agent, proving it to be a viable option to reduce/replace the use of synthetic preservatives. Furthermore, the avocado peel extract proved to be more effective and stable in oil-in-water emulsions. These results highlight the possibility of obtaining sustainable cosmetics, significantly reducing the negative impacts on the environment by the incorporation of extracts sourced from the avocado peel, an interesting source of phenolic compounds, an abundant and low-cost by-product.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.

Flavonoids Present in Propolis in the Battle against Photoaging and Psoriasis

The skin is the main external organ. It protects against different types of potentially harmful agents, such as pathogens, or physical factors, such as radiation. Skin disorders are very diverse, and some of them lack adequate and accessible treatment. The photoaging of the skin is a problem of great relevance since it is related to the development of cancer, while psoriasis is a chronic inflammatory disease that causes scaly skin lesions and deterioration of the lifestyle of people affected. These diseases affect the patient's health and quality of life, so alternatives have been sought that improve the treatment for these diseases. This review focuses on describing the properties and benefits of flavonoids from propolis against these diseases. The information collected shows that the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of flavonoids play a crucial role in the control and regulation of the cellular and biochemical alterations caused by these diseases; moreover, flavones, flavonols, flavanones, flavan-3-ols, and isoflavones contained in different worldwide propolis samples are the types of flavonoids usually evaluated in both diseases. Therefore, the research carried out in the area of dermatology with bioactive compounds of different origins is of great relevance to developing preventive and therapeutic approaches.

Transcriptomic and histological analysis of exposed facial skin areas wrinkled or not and unexposed skin

BACKGROUND

Skin aging involves genetic, environmental and hormonal factors. Facial wrinkles also depend on muscular activity. Gene expression investigation may be useful for new anti-aging products.

METHODS AND RESULTS

To evaluate structure and gene expression differences among exposed and unexposed skin in menopausal women. Cross-sectional study, including 15 menopausal women, 55-65 years, phototype III; photo-exposed, periorbital wrinkles (A1), preauricular, not wrinkled (A2), and unexposed gluteal (A3) areas were described and compared by non-invasive measures, histology, immunohistochemistry and gene expression (RNASeq); participants mean age was 61yo, presenting moderate periorbital wrinkles and light facial photodamage. Higher roughness, wrinkles number and echogenicity were observed in A1 and A2 versus A3. Decreased epidermal thickness and dermal collagen IV were demonstrated in A1 versus A2 and A3. Exposed areas impacted different pathways compared to unexposed. Exposed wrinkled skin (A1) showed impact on cell movement with decreased inflammatory activation state. Pathways related to lipid and aminoacids metabolism were modulated in non-wrinkled exposed (A2) compared to unexposed (A3) skin.

CONCLUSIONS

Expected histological findings and gene expression differences among areas were observed. Photoaging in menopausal women may modulate lipid and aminoacids metabolism and decrease inflammatory and keratinization pathways, cellular homeostasis, immune response, fibrogenesis and filament formation. These findings may help development of new therapies for skin health and aging control.

Characterization and Anti-aging Tests of Peel-Off Gel Masks Made from Ethanolic Extract of Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

  BACKGROUND: Yarrow extract (Achillea millefolium) is recognized to have powerful antioxidants that protect the skin from free radical damage, skin whitening, and anti-aging properties. As a result, the application of antioxidants on the skin can be packaged into a peel-off gel mask preparation for face skin care. AIM: The goal of this study is to see how different concentrations of PVA and HPMC as film-forming and gelling agents affect the quality of peel-off gel masks made from ethanol extract of yarrow (Achillea millefolium) as an antiaging ingredient. METHODS: In order to obtain 5 formulas that will be made into preparations and evaluate the quality of the preparations, this research method uses quantitative analysis methods and statistical analysis using One Way ANOVA by varying the concentrations of PVA (7-10%) and HPMC (2-4%) in order to obtain 5 formulas that will be made into preparations and evaluated the quality of the preparations. Organoleptic, homogeneity, pH, syneresis, skin irritation, viscosity, spreadability, and drying time of the mask were all evaluated. RESULT: The results of the experiment with different concentrations of PVA and HPMC enhanced dispersion and drying time, but had no effect on the viscosity value decrease. CONCLUCION: The quality of the peel off gel mask prepared from the ethanol extract of Yarrow was significantly affected by PVA and HPMC concentrations (p<0.05).    

The Beneficial Effect of Rosmarinic Acid on Benzophenone-3-Induced Alterations in Human Skin Fibroblasts

Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) is one of the most widely used chemical sunscreens. The results of many in vitro and in vivo tests confirm its high percutaneous penetration and systemic absorption, which question the safety of its wide use. The aim of our research was to assess the effect of this compound on components of the skin extracellular matrix, and to investigate whether rosmarinic acid (RA) could reduce BP-3-induced changes in human skin fibroblasts. BP-3 used at concentrations of 0.1-100 µM caused a number of unfavorable changes in the level of type I collagen, decorin, sulfated glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid, elastin, and expression or activity of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-2), elastase and hyaluronidase. Moreover, the intracellular retention of collagen was accompanied by changes in the expression of proteins modifying and controlling the synthesis and secretion of this protein. Most importantly, RA at a concentration of 100 µM significantly reduced or completely abolished the adverse effects of BP-3. Based on these findings, it can be concluded that this polyphenol may provide effective protection against BP-3-induced disturbances in skin cells, which may have important clinical implications.

Traditional Uses and Pharmacologically Active Constituents of Dendrobium Plants for Dermatological Disorders: A Review

Dendrobium Sw. is one of the largest genera in the orchidaceous family and includes 900-2000 species. Among them, more than 80 Dendrobium species have been reported in China. However, there are only six Dendrobium species, namely, D. bigibbum var. superbum (syn. D. phalaenopsis), D. chrysanthum, D. fimbriatum, D. loddigesii, D. nobile, and D. officinale (syn. D. candidum), listed in the New Inventory of Existing Cosmetic Ingredients in China Launched. Artificial planting of Dendrobium species has been a great success in China. To better utilize Dendrobium resources for medicinal and cosmetic purposes, we summarize their traditional uses and pharmacologically active compounds for treating dermatological disorders in this review. "Orchidaceae", "Dendrobium", "traditional use", "ethnobotany", "dermatological disorder", and "skin disease" were used as search terms to screen the literature. Cited references were collected between 1970 and 2020 from the Web of Science, China National Knowledge Internet (CNKI), SciFinder, Google Scholar, and Chinese books. From the search, it was found that there are 22 Dendrobium species with traditional uses in dermatological disorders, and 131 compounds from Dendrobium plants have been reported to possess anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiaging, anti-psoriasis, and tyrosinase-inhibitory activities, implying that Dendrobium plants are important resources for the discovery of active compounds and the development of new drugs and cosmetics. D. crepidatum, D. denneanum, D. loddigesii, D. nobile, and D. officinale have been extensively studied. More research on other Dendrobium species is needed. The major active compounds found in Dendrobium species are phenanthrenes, alkaloids, flavonoids, phenylpropanoids, and lignans. Several compounds, such as loddigesiinol A, (S)-5-methoxy-2,4,7,9-tetrahydroxy-9,10-dihydrophenanthrene, (S)-4-methoxy-2,5,7,9-tetrahydroxy-9,10-dihydrophenanthrene, 2,5-dihydroxy-4-methoxy-phenanthrene 2-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, (9R)-1,2,5,9-tetrahydroxy-9,10-dihydrophenanthrene 5-O-β-D-glucopyranoside, (+)-homocrepidine A, and vicenin 2, have significant anti-inflammatory activities and inhibit nitric oxide (NO) production with IC50 values less than 5 μM, and these compounds are worthy of further study.

In Vitro Antiaging Evaluation of Sunscreen Formulated from Nanostructured Lipid Carrier and Tocotrienol-Rich Fraction

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation leads to photoaging. There is a tremendous rise in products having a dual activity of photoprotection and antiaging. In vitro analysis in dermal fibroblasts and their biological mechanisms involved are critical to determine antiaging potential. The study aimed to investigate the antiaging potential of sunscreen formulated from nanostructured lipid carrier and tocotrienol-rich fraction (NLC-TRF sunscreen). The antioxidant activity of the NLC-TRF sunscreen was evaluated by radical scavenging and hydrogen peroxide inhibition properties. Also, collagenase, elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) inhibition activities, and type I collagen and elastin protein expression were studied. Quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction (qPCR) was used to evaluate the mRNA expression of fibroblast growth factor (FGF), vascular endothelial growth factor (VEGF), transforming growth factor-β1 (TGF-β1), type I collagen (COL1A1), elastin (ELN), MMP-1, MMP-2, and tissue inhibitor matrix metalloproteinase-1 (TIMP-1). The results suggested that NLC-TRF sunscreen is effective in radical, anti-hydrogen peroxide, and collagenase, elastase and MMP-1 inhibition activities. Besides, a significant increase for type I collagen (3.47-fold) and elastin (2.16-fold) protein and fibroblast regeneration genes (FGF (2.12-fold), VEGF (1.91-fold), TGF-β1 (2.84-fold), TIMP-1 (1.42-fold), ELN (2.13-fold)) were observed after sample treatment. These findings support the therapeutic potential of NLC-TRF sunscreen in antiaging.

Plant-Based Synthesis of Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles (ZnO-NPs) Using Aqueous Leaf Extract of Aquilegia pubiflora: Their Antiproliferative Activity against HepG2 Cells Inducing Reactive Oxygen Species and Other In Vitro Properties

The anti-cancer, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-diabetic effects of zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO-NPs) produced from aqueous leaf extract of Aquilegia pubiflora were evaluated in this study. Several methods were used to characterize ZnO-NPs, including SEM, FTIR, XRD, DLS, PL, Raman, and HPLC. The nanoparticles that had a size of 34.23 nm as well as a strong aqueous dispersion potential were highly pure, spherical or elliptical in form, and had a mean size of 34.23 nm. According to FTIR and HPLC studies, the flavonoids and hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives were successfully capped. Synthesized ZnO-NPs in water have a zeta potential of -18.4 mV, showing that they are stable solutions. The ZnO-NPs proved to be highly toxic for the HepG2 cell line and showed a reduced cell viability of 23.68 ± 2.1% after 24 hours of ZnO-NP treatment. ZnO-NPs also showed excellent inhibitory potential against the enzymes acetylcholinesterase (IC50: 102 μg/mL) and butyrylcholinesterase (IC50: 125 μg/mL) which are involved in Alzheimer's disease. Overall, the enzymes involved in aging, diabetes, and inflammation showed a moderate inhibitory response to ZnO-NPs. Given these findings, these biosynthesized ZnO-NPs could be a good option for the cure of deadly diseases such as cancer, diabetes, Alzheimer's, and other inflammatory diseases due to their strong anticancer potential and efficient antioxidant properties.

Neurocosmetics in Skincare—The Fascinating World of Skin–Brain Connection: A Review to Explore Ingredients, Commercial Products for Skin Aging, and Cosmetic Regulation

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

In Vitro Determination of Sun Protection Factor of Water Extract of Aerodramus fuciphagus from Central Kalimantan

Sunscreen is a cosmetic substance that has the ability to reflect or absorb sunlight actively. It can prevent skin irritation due to UV rays. One of the natural ingredients with a sunscreen effect is the Edible-nest swiftlet's (Aerodramus fuciphagus) nest (ESN). This study aimed to determine the value of the sun protective factor (SPF) of the ESN water extract. The ESN water extract solution with variation concentration, this is 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm, were measured by spectrophotometric UV-Vis at wavelength 290-375 nm with 5 nm intervals to determine the value of SPF, percentage of erythema transmission (%Te), and percentage of pigmentation transmission (%Tp) of ESN water extract. The result showed that the ESN water extract's SPF values at the concentration 2000, 2500, 5000, 6000, and 7000 ppm were 7.80; 9.68; 18.75; 20.58; and 22.24. The value of %Te of each concentration were 15.60±0.19; 10.03±0.42; 1.24±0.04; 0.81±0.01 and 0.56±0.01. While the value of %Tp of each concentration was showed the sunblock category. In conclusion, the ESN water extract from Central Kalimantan at the concentration of 6000 ppm has potential in ultraviolet protection against the skin in the ultra category with sunblock category mechanism. Further, it can be developed into sunscreen cosmetics from natural ingredients.

Impact of Social Media on Skin Cancer Prevention

Despite the increasing prevalence of social media usage in health care contexts, its impact on skin cancer prevention and awareness has not been largely investigated. We conducted a review of literature on this topic with the objective of summarizing and analyzing the role of social media in skin cancer and sun damage awareness and to identify the uses, benefits, and limitations of different social media platforms on skin cancer prevention. In today’s technological society, it is critical to understand and study the best form of communication. Specific platforms like Instagram, Twitter, Facebook, YouTube, and TikTok vary in originators of material, target demographics, messaging strategies, and reliability of information with regards to skin cancer, sun, and indoor tanning damage. Our results demonstrate that social media interventions have shown promise in skin cancer prevention and continue to escalate by the day. Dermatologists should keep pace with the latest dermatological content on social media and examine its evolution to target the right audience with the proper messages. Further research is needed to evaluate the effectiveness and true impact of social media on meaningful and lasting behavior change for skin cancer prevention.

Daily photoprotection to prevent photoaging

BACKGROUND

Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging.

METHODS

We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection.

RESULTS

Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis.

CONCLUSION

Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

Violet-blue light exposure of the skin: is there need for protection?

Advocates of skin protection against blue light express concern about exposure to indoor lighting and electronic screens as well as natural outdoor exposure. However, the nature of adverse effects in skin is unclear and the doses to induce effects are unknown. We aimed to reveal whether there is a scientific basis for promoting skin protection against violet-blue light (400-500 nm, VBL). Based on published literature, we determined the time to reach a threshold dose that induced a biological response in human skin. In the absence of an action spectrum for effects on skin, we used a hand held probe with a defined spectral response and measurements of the unweighted exposure between 400 and 500 nm to estimate the exposure by a selection of artificial light sources and solar light. For comparison, an outdoor threshold erythemally weighted UV dose was set to 1 SED (standard erythema dose). Outdoor, weighted irradiances were obtained using a radiative transfer model. Induction of pigmentation in human skin tissue was the only consistently reported endpoint after VBL exposure of about 65 Jcm^-2. This threshold dose was reached in 0.5 to 20 months of exposure to indoor lighting sources. In comparison, specialised medical sources reached this dose in 0.5 min to 45 h. The time outdoors to reach 1 SED was shorter than the time to reach a VBL threshold dose throughout all seasons. Skin protection against VBL is superfluous for exposures to domestic lighting sources or screens and for solar radiation; however, it may be advantageous for patients suffering from photosensitive diseases or taking photosensitising medication.

Facial Skin Biophysical Profile of Women in Malaysia: Significance of Facial Skincare Product Use

INTRODUCTION

At present, there is a lack of baseline data on the facial skin biophysical profile of women in Malaysia. The implications related to the daily habits and facial skincare product use on the skin biophysical condition are, thus, unknown. In this study, we aim to evaluate facial skin biophysical parameters of Malaysian women and examine the influence of demographic characteristics, daily habits, and facial skincare product use on these parameters.

METHODS

Four skin biophysical parameters - transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin content, elasticity, and collagen intensity - were assessed on the cheek of the subjects (20-60 years). Demographic background, daily habits, and skincare product use were gauged through a survey. Only 197 from the 213 subjects recruited initially were used for analysis after the data were screened for normality.

RESULTS

The biophysical parameters were similar in different races, except a higher melanin content in Indian female individuals. Elasticity and collagen intensity reduced with age, while melanin content increased in the older age-groups. But no difference was observed in TEWL at different ages. Evaluating the influence of daily habits, we observed that exercise significantly lowered TEWL and increased melanin content, which may be associated with UV radiation exposure. Facial skincare products are popular among the female subjects (>85% users). Products with moisturizing, sunscreening, and other skincare functions (astringent, antiaging, and anti-wrinkle) were preferred by subjects of all ages. These product functions significantly improve skin elasticity and reduce melanin content in the young adults. While aged women recognized the importance of having an additional skin-lightening function in their skincare routine. Although the influence of individual skincare function on skin biophysical parameters was mostly positive, the alteration of these parameters varied at different ages.

CONCLUSION

This is the first report of facial skin biophysical profile of Malaysian women. There is no difference among 3 major races saved for melanin content. This work demonstrated age-dependent influences on the biophysical parameters, except TEWL. The significance of skincare product use is well reflected in the improvement of these parameters at different age-groups based on individual skincare functions.

Menopause, Ultraviolet Exposure, and Low Water Intake Potentially Interact with the Genetic Variants Related to Collagen Metabolism Involved in Skin Wrinkle Risk in Middle-Aged Women

Genetic and environmental factors influence wrinkle development. We evaluated the polygenetic risk score (PRS) by pooling the selected single nucleotide polymorphisms (SNPs) from a genome-wide association study (GWAS) for wrinkles and the interaction of PRS with lifestyle factors in middle-aged women. Under the supervision of a dermatologist, the skin status of 128 women aged over 40 years old was evaluated with Mark-Vu, a skin diagnosis system. PRS was generated from the selected SNPs for wrinkle risk from the genome-wide association study. Lifestyle interactions with PRS were also evaluated for wrinkle risk. Participants in the wrinkled group were more likely to be post-menopausal, eat less fruit, take fewer vitamin supplements, exercise less, and be more tired after awakening in the morning than those in the less-wrinkled group. The PRS included EGFR_rs1861003, MMP16_rs6469206, and COL17A1_rs805698. Subjects with high PRS had a wrinkle risk 15.39-fold higher than those with low PRS after adjusting for covariates, and they had a 10.64-fold higher risk of a large skin pore size. Menopause, UV exposure, and water intake interacted with PRS for wrinkle risk: the participants with high PRS had a much higher incidence of wrinkle risk than those with low PRS, only among post-menopausal women and those with UV exposure. Only with low water intake did the participants with medium PRS have increased wrinkle risk. In conclusion, women aged >40 years with high PRS-related collagen metabolism may possibly avoid wrinkle risk by avoiding UV exposure by applying sunscreen, maintaining sufficient water intake, and managing estrogen deficiency.

Nootkatol prevents ultraviolet radiation-induced photoaging via ORAI1 and TRPV1 inhibition in melanocytes and keratinocytes

Skin photoaging occurs due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV), the main factor contributing to extrinsic skin aging. Clinical signs of photoaging include the formation of deep, coarse skin wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Although melanogenesis and skin wrinkling occur in different skin cells and have different underlying mechanisms, their initiation involves intracellular calcium signaling via calcium ion channels. The ORAI1 channel initiates melanogenesis in melanocytes, and the TRPV1 channel initiates MMP-1 production in keratinocytes in response to UV stimulation. We aimed to develop a drug that may simultaneously inhibit ORAI1 and TRPV1 activity to help prevent photoaging. We synthesized nootkatol, a chemical derivative of valencene. TRPV1 and ORAI1 activities were measured using the whole-cell patch-clamp technique. Intracellular calcium concentration [Ca²⁺]_i was measured using calcium-sensitive fluorescent dye (Fura-2 AM). UV-induced melanin formation and MMP-1 production were quantified in B16F10 melanoma cells and HaCaT cells, respectively. Our results indicate that nootkatol (90 μM) reduced TRPV1 current by 94% ± 2% at –60 mV and ORAI1 current by 97% ± 1% at –120 mV. Intracellular calcium signaling was significantly inhibited by nootkatol in response to ORAI1 activation in human primary melanocytes (51.6% ± 0.98% at 100 μM). Additionally, UV-induced melanin synthesis was reduced by 76.38% ± 5.90% in B16F10 melanoma cells, and UV-induced MMP-1 production was reduced by 59.33% ± 1.49% in HaCaT cells. In conclusion, nootkatol inhibits both TRPV1 and ORAI1 to prevent photoaging, and targeting ion channels may be a promising strategy for preventing photoaging.

The Skin Interactome: A Holistic "Genome-Microbiome-Exposome" Approach to Understand and Modulate Skin Health and Aging

Higher demands on skin care cosmetic products for strong performance drive intense research to understand the mechanisms of skin aging and design strategies to improve overall skin health. Today we know that our needs and influencers of skin health and skin aging change throughout our life journey due to both extrinsic factors, such as environmental factors and lifestyle factors, as well as our intrinsic factors. Furthermore, we need to consider our microflora, a collection of micro-organisms such as bacteria, viruses, and fungi, which is a living ecosystem in our gut and on our skin, that can have a major impact on our health. Here, we are viewing a holistic approach to understand the collective effect of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging both reviewing how each of them impact the skin, but more importantly to identify molecular conjunction pathways of these different factors in order to get a better understanding of the integrated “genome-microbiome-exposome” effect. For this purpose and in order to translate molecularly the impact of the key influencers of skin health and skin aging, we built a digital model based on system biology using different bioinformatics tools. This model is considering both the positive and negative impact of our genome (genes, age/gender), exposome: external (sun, pollution, climate) and lifestyle factors (sleep, stress, exercise, nutrition, skin care routine), as well as the role of our skin microbiome, and allowed us in a first application to evaluate the effect of the genome in the synthesis of collagen in the skin and the determination of a suitable target for boosting pro-collagen synthesis. In conclusion, we have, through our digital holistic approach, defined the skin interactome concept, as an advanced tool to better understand the molecular genesis of skin aging and further develop a strategy to balance the influence of the exposome and microbiome to protect, prevent, and delay the appearance of skin aging signs and preserve good skin health condition. In addition, this model will aid in identifying and optimizing skin treatment options based on external triggers, as well as helping to design optimal treatments modulating the intrinsic pathways.