Facial skin pores: a multiethnic study

Facial pore refining by targeting dermal and epidermal functions: Assessment across age and gender

BACKGROUND

Conspicuous facial pores are benign but represent a cosmetic concern for men and women. Recent works described dermal and epidermal impairments as clinical causes of enlarged pores. Morphological modifications of skin at the site of pores were associated with collagen density loss, possible alteration of extracellular matrix and abnormal differentiation of keratinocytes.

AIMS

A composition containing mannose-6-phosphate (Active Complex) was designed to address these different aspects of pore enlargement. In vitro and ex vivo evaluations were conducted in different models mimicking disturbance of dermal and epidermal functions. The pore refining activity of Active Complex was assessed in two clinical trials studying a Caucasian women cohort and an Asian men cohort.

RESULTS

At the dermal level, Active Complex upregulated collagen I and decorin synthesis, and genes encoding collagens I, III, V, VII, XVII; suggesting its ability to favor collagen fiber organization and anchorage. The downregulation of matrix metalloprotease, involved in extracellular matrix degradation, reinforced the protective effect of Active Complex in the dermis. Active Complex down modulated differentiation markers in keratinocytes as well as genes involved in cell renewal. Study of reconstructed human epidermis modeling keratinocyte hyperproliferation revealed that Active Complex mitigated two markers of this state: number of nuclei in the stratum corneum and involucrin expression. Clinical trials confirmed the pore refining activity of Active Complex on men and women of different ages and ethnicities; -24% total skin pore area after 56 days of application on women, and -30.2% on men after 7 days.

CONCLUSIONS

This work demonstrates the interest to target dermal and epidermal modifications described in conspicuous pore area, especially dermis fiber organization, to address this cosmetic concern.

Is Acne the Same Around the World?

Acne is a common skin disease associated with a range of sequelae. These include scarring and dyspigmentation, emotional and psychosocial disturbances, and occupational problems, in part because acne often manifests on the face, in addition to other body areas, and is highly visible. Worldwide, the prevalence of acne is estimated at 9.4 percent; it is most common in adolescents but also affects a relatively high proportion of adults. Early studies of acne epidemiology were conducted primarily in the United States and the United Kingdom. In more recent decades, data have been increasing for other areas of the world. There has also been more attention devoted to how acne may present and be managed in individuals with skin of color (i.e., the broad and diverse range of populations that self-identify as belonging to a non-White racial/ethnic group and share characteristics such as higher skin phototypes and propensity toward hyperpigmentation). This review seeks to highlight aspects of acne that may be unique to skin of color.

An artificial intelligence powered study of enlarged facial pore prevalence on one million Chinese from different age groups and its correlation with environmental factors

BACKGROUND

Enlarged pores are amidst one of the top cosmetic concerns, especially among Chinese. Many small-group studies have been conducted in understanding their prevalence and beauty relevance. Nonetheless, population-level investigations are still lacking because of gaps in data collection and processing of large-scale studies. Owing to the recent technological advancement enabled by artificial intelligence, databases on the scale of millions can be processed and analyzed readily.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Powered by big data capabilities, revealed a number of novel trends on pore conditions among over-a-million Chinese participants recruited via the "You Look Great Today" mobile application. A scoring model was constructed, which demonstrated high consistency with conventional grading method from dermatologists. Environmental data (weather, air pollution, light at night satellite) were applied to correlate with pore severity.

RESULTS

Intraclass correlations between the two scoring systems were strong, with coefficients ranging from 0.79 to 0.92 for different facial areas. Statistical differences in pore severity among all four facial areas (cheek, forehead, nose, and overall) were observed, with the cheek exhibiting the most severe pore condition. Interestingly, Chinese men suffer from more severe pore condition than females. Multiple environmental factors exhibited strong correlations with cheek pore severity and were statistically fitted into linear regressions. Specifically, incremental risk with Each Low Temperature, Low Humidity, And High Solar Exposure correlate to worse cheek pore conditions. Although the Pearson correlation was low between cheek pore severity and light at night, comparison between representative cities demonstrated that in geologically similar cities, higher light at night corresponds to more severe cheek pore conditions.

CONCLUSION

Our study is showcasing a robust and reliable AI model in facial pore evaluation. More importantly, insights uncovered using this facile approach also bear significant cosmetic ramifications in treatment of pore enlargement.

Evaluation of 755-nm Picosecond Alexandrite Laser With a Focus Lens Array for the Treatment of Enlarged Facial Pores

OBJECTIVES

This study aims to evaluate the use of 755-nm picosecond alexandrite laser with a focus lens array to treat facial pores.

METHODS

Laser treatment was performed on 129 patients between January 2021 and October 2022. VISIA imaging system was used for photographic assessments, the total average number and pore index was calculated, the physicians' assessment score and patient satisfaction score were collected, and the incidence of disadvantage effects was also documented.

RESULTS

The mean patient age was 35.2±6.4 years (21-45 y). The total average number of facial pores was 1614.1±412.8, and the total average number decreased to 1262.6±356.2 three months after the last treatment. The pretreatment baseline of pore index was 26.1±4.5, while the pore index was 21.3±3.7 three months after the last treatment. The physicians' assessment score was 2.7 on the 0-to-4 scale, and patient satisfaction score was 3.5 on the 1-to-5 scale. There were no adverse events, such as hyperkeratosis, scarring, and hypo-or hyperpigmentation.

CONCLUSIONS

755-nm picosecond alexandrite laser with a focus lens array was safe and effective in the treatment of facial pores with relatively few unanticipated adverse events.

LEVEL OF EVIDENCE

Level IV-observational study without controls.

Microspheres Based on Blends of Chitosan Derivatives with Carrageenan as Vitamin Carriers in Cosmeceuticals

Chitosan (CS) has a natural origin and is a biodegradable and biocompatible polymer with many skin-beneficial properties successfully used in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical industry. CS derivatives, especially those synthesized via a Schiff base reaction, are very important due to their unique antimicrobial activity. This study demonstrates research results on the use of hydrogel microspheres made of [chitosan-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan)], [chitosan-2-pyridinecarboxaldehyde-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan), and chitosan-sodium-4-formylbenzene-1,3-disulfonate-graft-poly(ε-caprolactone)]-blend-(ĸ-carrageenan) as innovative vitamin carriers for cosmetic formulation. A permeation study of retinol (vitamin A), L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and α-tocopherol (vitamin E) from the cream through a human skin model by the Franz Cell measurement system was presented. The quantitative analysis of the release of the vitamins added to the cream base, through the membrane, imitating human skin, showed a promising profile of its release/penetration, which is promising for the development of a cream with anti-aging properties. Additionally, the antibacterial activity of the polymers from which the microspheres are made allows for the elimination of preservatives and parabens as cosmetic formulation ingredients.

Efficacy of a moisturizing cream and facial mask for alleviating skin problems associated with medical mask use: A half-face, randomized controlled study

BACKGROUND

Prolonged use of medical masks has increased skin-related issues.

AIM

To evaluate the efficacy of a facial cream and facial mask in mitigating medical mask related skin symptoms.

METHODS

Healthy women were randomly assigned to apply a facial cream (n = 32) or a facial mask plus a facial cream (n = 32) on half-faces after wearing medical masks for 4 h (Tb). Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), dryness score, and redness area were assessed at Tb and 10 min after using the cream (T1) in the facial cream group, and at Tb, 1 h after using the facial mask (T2), and 10 min after using the cream (T3) in the combined use group.

RESULTS

In the facial cream group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T1 in TEWL (-2.95 ± 0.38 vs. -0.68 ± 0.35 g/h·cm2, p < 0.001) and skin dryness score (-1.00 ± 0.12 vs. 0.00 ± 0.00, p < 0.001). In the combined use group, the treated half-face showed significantly better improvements from Tb to T2 and T3 in TEWL (T2, -3.46 ± 0.33 vs. -0.09 ± 0.13 g/h·cm2; T3, -4.67 ± 0.31 vs. -0.28 ± 0.22 g/h·cm2) and skin dryness score (T2, -0.63 ± 0.13 vs. 0.03 ± 0.03; T3, -0.94 ± 0.17 vs. 0.19 ± 0.07) (all p < 0.001) then the untreated half-face. The combined use group had significantly lower TEWL at T3 than T2 (p < 0.05). The reduction in redness area was similar between the treated and untreated half-faces in both groups.

CONCLUSIONS

The test facial cream and mask significantly improved skin barrier function and alleviated dryness symptoms associated with medical mask use, with the combined use offering superior benefits.

Microplastics in Asian rivers: Geographical distribution, most detected types, and inconsistency in methodologies

Microplastics pose a significant environmental threat, with potential implications for toxic chemical release, aquatic life endangerment, and human food chain contamination. In Asia, rapid economic growth coupled with inadequate waste management has escalated plastic pollution in rivers, positioning them as focal points for environmental concern. Despite Asia's rivers being considered the most polluted with plastics globally, scholarly attention to microplastics in the region's freshwater environments is a recent development. This study undertakes a systematic review of 228 scholarly articles to map microplastic hotspots in Asian freshwater systems and synthesize current research trends within the continent. Findings reveal a concentration of research in China and Japan, primarily investigating riverine and surface waters through net-based sampling methods. Polyethylene (PE), polypropylene (PP), and polyethylene terephthalate (PET) emerge as the predominant microplastic types, frequently observed as fibers or fragments. However, the diversity of sampling methodologies and reporting metrics complicates data synthesis, underscoring the need for standardized analytical frameworks to facilitate comparative analysis. This paper delineates the distribution of microplastic hotspots and outlines the prevailing challenges and prospects in microplastic research within Asian freshwater contexts.

Coastal and deep-sea biodegradation of polyhydroxyalkanoate microbeads

Microbeads find widespread usage in personal care items and cosmetics, serving as exfoliants or scrubbing agents. Their micro-scale size poses challenges in effective drainage capture and given their origin from non-biodegradable oil-based plastics, this contributes substantially to marine pollution. In this study, microbeads were prepared by a simple yet scalable melt homogenization method using four types of polyhydroxyalkanoates (PHA), namely poly[(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate] (P(3HB)), poly[(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate-co-(R)-3-hydroxyvalerate] (P(3HB-co-3HV)), poly[(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate-co-(R)-3-hydroxyhexanoate] (P(3HB-co-3HHx)) and poly[(R)-3-hydroxybutyrate-co-(R)-4-hydroxyvalerate] (P(3HB-co-4HB)). Microbeads with different surface smoothness, compressive strength (6.2-13.3 MPa) and diameter (from 1 ~ 150 μm) could be produced. The microbeads were subjected to a comprehensive degradation analysis using three techniques: enzymatic, Biochemical Oxygen Demand (BOD) evaluations, and in situ degradation tests in the deep-sea off Misaki Port in the northern Pacific Ocean (depth of 757 m). Qualitatively, results from enzymatic and in situ degradation demonstrated significant degradation within one week and five months, respectively. Quantitatively, BOD findings indicated that all PHA microbeads degraded similarly to cellulose (~ 85% biodegradability in 25 days). In conclusion, PHA microbeads from this study exhibit promising potential as alternatives to conventional non-biodegradable microbeads.

Dual intervention on the gut and skin microbiota attenuates facial cutaneous aging

The gut and skin microbiota are microbial barriers, resisting harmful foreign microorganisms and maintaining internal homeostasis. Dysbiosis of the gut and skin microbiota is involved in aging progression. However, interventions targeting facial skin wellness taking into account the gut-skin axis are scarce. In this study, the impact of an eight-week intervention with oral (O), topical (T), and both oral and topical (OT) xylo-oligosaccharides (XOS) by regulating gut and skin microbiota on facial cutaneous aging was investigated in a double-blind placebo-controlled trial in females. An increase in the proportion of participants with skin rejuvenation was observed, along with a significant reduction in facial pores after OT intervention. The reduction of cutaneous Cutibacterium by OT intervention was greater than that in the O and T groups. These interventions can change the skin microbial structure. Intestinal Bifidobacterium was enriched only by dual treatment with oral and topical XOS. Function prediction analysis revealed a decrease in K02770 encoding fructose-1-phosphate kinase involved in de novo lipid synthesis from fructose with dual intervention, suggesting that inhibition of lipophilic Cutibacterium may contribute to reducing facial pores. Overall, the dual XOS intervention approach is most effective for improving both gut and skin microbiota, as well as facial skin aging.

A comparative study of passive drug diffusion through human skin via intercellular and sweat duct route: effect of aging

A method of drug delivery that could provide control over medicine reaching the bloodstream for systemic circulation would be of immense importance. This work presents a comparative study of the temporal and spatial variation of drugs diffusing passively through two separate routes of human skin, namely intercellular (ICR) and sweat duct route (SDR). An analysis is carried out for two age groups (young < 40 years and old > 60 years of age). Governing equations based on Fick's law for mass transfer have been solved numerically using an in-house developed code. The code has been validated thoroughly with numerical and experimental work from the literature. Each skin route is modeled into three compartments sandwiched between the donor and receiver compartments. To understand the role of diffusion and partition coefficient on drug permeation, four drugs, namely hydrocortisone, trans-cinnamic acid, caffeine, and benzoic acid, are considered. The drug diffusion rate is found greater through ICR as compared to SDR. Further, the amount of drugs diffusing through both routes increases with age. Desirable drug characteristic is inferred to be a lower value of partition coefficient and a higher value of diffusion coefficient. This study could lead to real-time assessment of drugs reaching the bloodstream and beyond.

An absence of imperfections: A proposed framework for defining, assessing, and achieving skin glow

BACKGROUND

Skin glow is a subcomponent of skin quality. It has become entrenched in the cosmeceuticals and aesthetics lexicons as a synonym for health and youth, but is not well-defined as a scientific metric.

AIMS

To examine the concept of skin glow and determine if it is an objective concept that can be defined and quantified.

METHODS

Literature review was used to develop a survey on current concepts relating to skin quality. The survey results were analyzed descriptively and presented to a focus group comprising five dermatologists and four aesthetic physicians. This group then discussed the concept of skin glow, how to define it and what metrics could be used to assess it.

RESULTS

Surveyed practitioners (n = 38) ranked skin quality as the fourth most important factor related to a person's overall aesthetic first impression. Almost all (95%) respondents reported routinely assessing skin quality, citing serial photography (83%), and visual inspection (67%) as the main means of achieving this. The focus group defined skin glow as even reflectance from an unaffected papillary and reticular dermal collagen layer, which is created only when skin does not exhibit any characteristics that detract from this even reflectance. Due to its complexity, the focus group proposed a hierarchal framework for assessment, encompassing patient self-rating, practitioner severity rating, and supplemental use of validated measurement devices.

CONCLUSIONS

Skin glow can be defined and quantified. More work is warranted to develop a practical skin glow assessment tool suitable for use in the clinic setting.

Skin pore imaging using spectral-domain optical coherence tomography: a case report

Sebum is an important component of the skin that has attracted attention in many fields, including dermatology and cosmetics. Pore expansion due to sebum on the skin can lead to various problems. Therefore, it is necessary to analyze the morphological characteristics of sebum. In this study, we used optical coherence tomography (OCT) to evaluate facial sebum areas. We obtained the OCT maximum amplitude projection (MAP) image and a cross-sectional image of skin pores in the facial area. Subsequently, we detected the sebum in skin pores using the detection algorithm of the ImageJ software to quantitatively determine the size of randomly selected pores in the proposed MAP images. Additionally, the pore size was analyzed by acquiring images before and after facial sebum extraction. According to our research, facial sebum can be morphologically described using the OCT system. Since OCT imaging enables specific analysis of skin parameters, including pores and sebum, skin analysis employing OCT could be an effective method for further research.

Microtoxin for Improving Pore Size, Skin Laxity, Sebum Control, and Scars: A Roundtable on Integrating Intradermal Botulinum Toxin Type A Microdoses Into Clinical Practice

BACKGROUND

In aesthetic clinical practice, botulinum toxin type A (BoNT-A) is best known for its use as a neuromodulator for the treatment of dynamic facial lines; however, when injected intradermally as microdroplets, BoNT-A can improve skin quality and overall skin appearance.

OBJECTIVES

To discuss key aspects of microtoxin use in clinical practice and provide expert guidance on utilization.

METHODS

As part of a continuing medical education lecture series and roundtable, the authors discussed key aspects of microtoxin patient selection, injection technique, and safety.

RESULTS

The experiences of expert faculty are shared here. Clinical experience is consistent with reported data. Microtoxin can be used to reduce pore size, sebum production, rosacea, acne, and fine lines, and to improve jawline and neck definition. Intradermal injection can also be employed for the improvement of transverse neck lines as well as for the safe prevention and management of scars and keloids.

CONCLUSIONS

Expanding the use of BoNT-A, a predictable, minimally invasive, and affordable treatment to address commonly encountered complaints is appealing. The authors have found that making patients aware of microtoxin as a treatment option results in an increased interest in and utilization of BoNT-A, and high satisfaction among appropriately selected patients.

Study of Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen and Collagen-like Products in a Tri-Layered Chitosan Membrane to Test Anti-Aging Skin Properties

The use of animal testing in the cosmetic industry is already prohibited in more than 40 countries, including those of the EU. The pressure for it to be banned worldwide in the future is increasing, so the need for animal alternatives is of great interest today. In addition, using animals and humans in scientific research is ethically reprehensible. This study aimed to prove some of the anti-aging properties of elastin (EL), hydrolyzed collagen (HC), and two vegan collagen-like products (Veg Col) in a tri-layered chitosan membrane that was ionically crosslinked with sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP). In the first approach, as a way of representing different layers of a biological system, such as the epidermis and the two dermis sublayers, EL, HC, or Veg Col were independently introduced into the two inner layers (2L_(i+b)). Their effects were compared with those of their introduction into three layers (3L). Different experiments were performed on the membrane to test its elasticity, hydration, moisture retention, and pore reduction at different concentrations of EL, HC, and Veg Col, and the results were normalized vs. a blank membrane. This new alternative to animal or human testing can be suitable for proving certain efficacy claims for active ingredients or products in the pharmaceutical, nutritional, and cosmetic fields.

Objective and automatic grading system of facial signs from smartphones' pictures in South African men: Validation versus dermatologists and characterization of changes with age

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the capacity of the automatic detection system to accurately grade, from selfie pictures, the severity of eight facial signs in South African men.

METHODS

Selfie pictures (obtained from frontal and back cameras) of 281 South African men differently aged (20-70 years) were obtained and analyzed by an automatic artificial intelligence (AI)-based automatic grading system. Data were compared with the clinical gradings made by experts and dermatologists.

RESULTS

In all facial signs, both series of gradings were found highly correlated with, however, different coefficients (0.59-0.95), those of marionette lines and cheek pores being of lower values. No differences were observed between data obtained by frontal and back cameras. With age, in most cases, gradings show up to the 50-59 year age-class, linear-like changes. When compared to men of other ancestries, South African men present lower wrinkles/texture, pigmentation, and ptosis/sagging scores till 50-59 years, albeit not much different in the cheek pores sign. The early onset (mean age) of visibility of wrinkles/texture for South African men were (i.e., reaching grade >1) 39 and 45 years for ptosis/sagging.

CONCLUSION

This study completes and enlarges the previous works conducted on men of other ancestries by showing some South African specificities and slight differences with men of comparable phototypes (Afro American).

"The efficacy and adverse effects of treatment options for facial pores: A review article"

INTRODUCTION

Skin pores are enlarged openings of the pilosebaceous follicles that can be affected by age, gender, genetics, exposure to UV light, ethnicity, and sebum secretion. Many treatment modalities reduce facial pores' count and area, including oral and topical medications as well as different wavelengths of lasers. Finding a safe and cost-effective treatment protocol is necessary since facial pores are one of the main reasons for cosmetic complaints.

AIM

This review compares available treatment options for reducing facial pores' number and area according to the published clinical trials.

METHODS

A search on PubMed and Google Scholar was performed. Nineteen published clinical trials regarding treatment options for facial pores were included and reviewed based on the authors' clinical experience.

RESULTS

A total number of 591 cases (83.7% female) aged 18-80 years were included. Three assessment methods including digital imaging, physician assessment, and patient' satisfaction were used in the studies to evaluate the therapeutic efficacy of each modality. Furthermore, combining different modalities increased the efficacy of reducing pores' size and number. Mild, reversible burning and erythema were common side effects.

CONCLUSION

Multiple sessions and combination therapies improve facial pores' area and number. In young patients, the focus should be on controlling sebum production, while in older patients, the focus should be on rejuvenation in addition to the control of sebum production.

The comparison of the efficacy and safety of fractional 1064 nm Nd:YAG picosecond laser and nonablative fractional 1565 nm laser in the treatment of enlarged pores: A prospective split-face study

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES

To compare the efficacy and safety of fractional 1064 nm Nd:YAG picosecond laser and nonablative fractional 1565 nm laser in the treatment of enlarged pores.

STUDY DESIGN/MATERIALS AND METHODS

Twenty patients received five monthly treatments at months 0, 1, 2, 3, and 4 and were followed up at months 5, 6, and 7. All patients were treated by fractional 1064 nm Nd:YAG picosecond laser (FxPico) on the left face, and nonablative fractional 1565 nm laser (ResurFx) on the right face as a control.

RESULTS

For the 19 patients who completed the study, both sides demonstrated significant improvement on pore counts (p < 0.01), while there was no significant difference between the two sides 3 months after the final treatment (p = 0.092). Excellence rate on the FxPico side (57.9%) was significantly better than the ResurFx side (36.8%) (p < 0.05). Sebum secretion and porphyrin value significantly decreased on both sides after five treatments and there was a higher reduction of sebum level on the ResurFx side. There was no difference between the two therapies in terms of overall satisfaction. Pain of treatment for the ResurFx side (average VAS 4.45 ± 1.60) is significantly higher than that for the FxPico side (average visual analog scale [VAS] 1.48 ± 1.36) (p < 0.001). Erythema, edema, and petechiae were common adverse effects and were mild to moderate. There was significantly higher incidence of hyperpigmentation for the ResurFx side (52.6%) compared with that for the FxPico side (5.3%) (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSION

Fractional 1064 nm Nd:YAG picosecond laser and nonablative fractional 1565 nm laser both are effective, efficient, and safe treatment regimens for enlarged pores, while fractional 1064 nm Nd:YAG picosecond laser has better clinical response with less treatment pain, shorter recovery period and much lower induction of hyperpigmentation.

Analysis of images supplied by Skincam® can record the changes of some scar features that occur over time. Comparisons with the assessments of dermatologist and patients' perception

OBJECTIVE

The objective of the study was to assess in vivo the validity of a new imaging device in quantifying the scarring process over time and to compare its data with the expertise of dermatologist and patients' self-appraisals.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A total of 37 Korean women, aged 20-50 year, with closed scars of different types, were enrolled after a dermatological evaluation. All subjects applied daily a hydrating cream on their scars for 2 months. Images of scars at different times (Day 0, Day 28, and Day 56) were taken and further analyzed, yielding various parameters such as color, luminance, size, volume, and depth of each scar. A dermatologist visually graded, at each time point, the clinical aspect of the scar, and patients were asked to answer to some questions dealing with their self-examination of their scar.

RESULTS

The changes in some scar features that occurred during the application period were quantified and statistically differed from the D₀ baseline value. Scars became of reduced size, lighter (Increased luminance), less red, less deep, and less voluminous. Some of these parameters (volume, lightness, smoothness, texture regularity) were statistically different at D₂₈ whereas some others (area, depth, redness) showed significant changes at D₅₆ . Dermatologist expertise and patients' assessments were in high agreement.

CONCLUSION

This methodological approach that uses a dedicated camera associated with image analysis, despite some inherent limits (size of the scar), appears as a valuable aid to surgeons in the management of scars, in the follow-up of a given procedure or treatment. Beyond scar management, this approach may be extended to other skin disorders such as acne.

Assessing the effect of cleansing products on artificially polluted human hairs and skin through in vivo and in vitro models

OBJECTIVE

Based on in vivo data, in vitro models and new methods are created to mimic the impact of aerial pollution onto the hair surface and assess the efficacy of different formulae prototypes.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Two protocols are developed to mimic the pollution effect, in vitro, on purchased swatches, and in vivo, on scalps and forearms. First, with an artificial sebum mixed with Carbon Black particles, named "sebollution," we evaluated, through an instrumental color measurement, the cleansing efficacy of some shampoo on scalp and hair. The second protocol allowed to assess the interaction between hair care product deposit (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on) on hair and carbon black particles spread on fiber. The quantification of particle coverage allowed to evaluate the efficiency of a formula to limit the aerial pollution deposit on hair fiber.

RESULTS

To simplify and accelerate the evaluation of 42 shampoo formulae, an extrapolation of the scalp cleaning process was validated on forearm. The respective cleanabilities were calculated and covered a large range of efficacy, from 5%, for a basic bland shampoo generally used to reset swatches, to a strong deep cleansing efficacy of 100%. On hair swatches, cleanability efficiencies of five shampoo were also evaluated to eliminate the deposited of sebollution, in a range of 40%-80%. To quantify the efficacy of preventing the deposition of carbon particle on hair surface, the percentage of coverage of 45 different products was measured, from 2% to 16%. The performance depended of the product category (shampoo, conditioner, mask, and leave-on), driven by the performance of the product deposit, and the capacity of this deposit to interact with aerial pollution.

CONCLUSION

Three new protocols and evaluation methods are proposed to evaluate and quantify the performance of hair care product, to remove/clean, limit, and protect the hair fibers against the aerial pollution that could interact with hair, scalp and sebum. The validation of these approaches was done through the testing of a large panel of hair care product leading to a complete and sincere evaluation of cleansing and anti-deposit efficacy. Combining the knowledge acquired on pollution impact on hair and the development of specific way of evaluation, this work reinforced the rationale of using and developing new cosmetic products that reduced the impact of pollution upon some hair properties.

Ultrapermeable and Wet-Adhesive Monolayer Porous Film for Stretchable Epidermal Electrode

Noninvasive electrophysiological signal monitoring is significant for health care and scientific research. The simultaneous achievement of wet adhesion, stretchability, breathability, and low contact impedance is highly recommended in the epidermal electrode but still challenging. In this work, a monolayer porous film electrode with a pore size and wall thickness of less than ∼10 μm is fabricated via the breath figure method (BFM) and metal sputtering, and it was subsequently applied using epidermal electrophysiological monitoring. The ultrahigh permeability is comparable to the naked skin because the through holes of the monolayer porous film match well with the pores on human skin. The stretchability of 50% is realized with the combination of Au microcrack and the monolayer porous structure. The wet adhesion of 0.17 N/cm is established on the chemical bonding between the electrode and the epidermis. The contact impedance is comparable with the gold standard Ag/AgCl gel electrode, especially after sweating. Stable and precise electrophysiological signals are measured. Especially, the perspiration resistance of the monolayer porous film outperforms that of the gel electrode. The monolayer porous structure provides a new avenue to improve the breathability of the epidermal electronics.

Interactions of microplastics with organic, inorganic and bio-pollutants and the ecotoxicological effects on terrestrial and aquatic organisms

As emerging contaminants, microplastics (MPs) have attracted global attention. They are a potential risk to organisms, ecosystems and human health. MPs are characterized by small particle sizes, weak photodegradability, and are good environmental carriers. They can physically adsorb or chemically react with organic, inorganic and bio-pollutants to generate complex binary pollutants or change the environmental behaviors of these pollutants. We systematically reviewed the following aspects of MPs: (i) Adsorption of heavy metals and organic pollutants by MPs and the key environmental factors affecting adsorption behaviors; (ii) Enrichment and release of antibiotic resistance genes (ARGs) on MPs and the effects of MPs on ARG migration in the environment; (iii) Formation of "plastisphere" and interactions between MPs and microorganisms; (iv) Ecotoxicological effects of MPs and their co-exposures with other pollutants. Finally, scientific knowledge gaps and future research areas on MPs are summarized, including standardization of study methodologies, ecological effects and human health risks of MPs and their combination with other pollutants.

Chitosan functionalization of metal- and carbon-based nanomaterials as an approach toward sustainability tomorrow

The growing number of nanomaterials-based-products ranging from agriculture to cosmetics to medical, and so on, increases the amount of exposure, compelling researchers to include safety and health protocols in each developed nano-product to ensure consumer safety. As a result, emphasizing the importance of novel nanomaterials' toxicological and safety profiles, as well as their product quality enhancement, is critical. As a result, research efforts must be directed toward developing new nanomaterials in a safer-by-design manner. Chitosan functionalization is an excellent option for this because it is already known for its nontoxicity, biodegradability, and biocompatibility. In this review, we hope to uncover the toxicological consequences of nanomaterials and the potential role of chitosan functionalization in mitigating them. This is an effort to create an environmentally friendly and safe nano-product, ensuring tomorrow's sustainability.

The efficacy of polycaprolactone filler injection on enlarged facial pores

BACKGROUND

Facial pores, visible topographic change of skin representing enlarged openings of pilosebaceous follicles, are common aesthetic concern.

AIM

To examine the efficacy of polycaprolactone (PCL) filler on enlarged facial pores and skin texture improvement.

PATIENTS AND METHODS

A total of seven participants with enlarged facial pores were included in the study and underwent deep dermal injection of PCL based filler (Ellanse M, Sinclair Pharma; London, United Kingdom). Skin quality measurements including skin evenness, red areas, UV spots, wrinkles and pore numbers evaluated with an automated aesthetic camera (FotoFinder®, Teach Screen Systems software GmbH; Bad Birnbach, Germany) before and three months after the injection session. Adverse events during procedure were monitored and recorded. Subjects were asked to report any injection related side effects.

RESULTS

The average size of enlarged pores was 33.51 ± 41 before treatment and 20.51 ± 35 after treatment. The difference was statistically significant (P < 0.05). The skin evenness, red areas, UV spots, and wrinkles showed no significant improvement after filler injection. No serious adverse events were reported at follow-up visit.

CONCLUSION

The PCL based filler seems to be notably effective in improvement of enlarged facial pores especially in moderate to severe cases. However, further structured studies with larger sample size and control group could be more beneficial to elucidate the possible efficacy of PCL filler injection on the skin quality characteristics. This article is protected by copyright. All rights reserved.

Identifying patterns behind the changes in skin pores using 3-dimensional measurements and K-means clustering

Background

Skin pores are structural features of the skin, which tend to change as the skin ages. Since previous studies measured pores two‐dimensionally, precise measurements using three‐dimensional imaging were needed to comprehensively understand skin pores. This study aimed to determine the patterns behind the changes in skin pores during one's lifetime and to identify new characteristics of the pores in aged.

Materials and Methods

Skin surface profiles were measured three‐dimensionally from the cheeks of 101 Korean women from February to March 2020 to analyze the exact state of their pores. The researchers performed K‐means clustering to classify the skin pores, and topographical features of pores were analyzed as well. Statistical analyses were performed to verify the differences in the skin pore characteristics among clusters and the correlation between clusters and ages.

Results

Skin pores were classified into five groups based on size, density, and elongation. The skin conditions of the cluster groups were well correlated with aging, despite excluding age as a factor in pore classification. Adjacent skin pores tend to connect in the elderly.

Conclusion

Skin pores become larger and longer over time. Skin pores connect together in the elderly, which might be related to wrinkle formation. This phenomenon strongly suggests skin pores as a characteristic of aging skin and as a potential target for anti‐aging treatment.

Multifaceted Design and Emerging Applications of Tissue Adhesives

Tissue adhesives can form appreciable adhesion with tissues and have found clinical use in a variety of medical settings such as wound closure, surgical sealants, regenerative medicine, and device attachment. The advantages of tissue adhesives include ease of implementation, rapid application, mitigation of tissue damage, and compatibility with minimally invasive procedures. The field of tissue adhesives is rapidly evolving, leading to tissue adhesives with superior mechanical properties and advanced functionality. Such adhesives enable new applications ranging from mobile health to cancer treatment. To provide guidelines for the rational design of tissue adhesives, here, existing strategies for tissue adhesives are synthesized into a multifaceted design, which comprises three design elements: the tissue, the adhesive surface, and the adhesive matrix. The mechanical, chemical, and biological considerations associated with each design element are reviewed. Throughout the report, the limitations of existing tissue adhesives and immediate opportunities for improvement are discussed. The recent progress of tissue adhesives in topical and implantable applications is highlighted, and then future directions toward next-generation tissue adhesives are outlined. The development of tissue adhesives will fuse disciplines and make broad impacts in engineering and medicine.

Creation of Ionically Crosslinked Tri-Layered Chitosan Membranes to Simulate Different Human Skin Properties

In 2023, new legislation will ban the use of animals in the cosmetic industry worldwide. This fact, together with ethical considerations concerning the use of animals or humans in scientific research, highlights the need to propose new alternatives for replacing their use. The aim of this study is to create a tri-layered chitosan membrane ionically crosslinked with sodium tripolyphosphate (TPP) in order to simulate the number of layers in human skin. The current article highlights the creation of a membrane where pores were induced by a novel method. Swelling index, pore creation, and mechanical property measurements revealed that the swelling index of chitosan membranes decreased and, their pore formation and elasticity increased with an increase in the Deacetylation Grade (DDA). Additionally, the results demonstrate that chitosan's origin can influence the elastic modulus value and reproducibility, with higher values being obtained with seashell than snow crab or shrimp shells. Furthermore, the data show that the addition of each layer, until reaching three layers, increases the elastic modulus. Moreover, if layers are crosslinked, the elastic modulus increases to a much greater extent. The characterization of three kinds of chitosan membranes was performed to find the most suitable material for studying different human skin properties.

Subclinical effects of adapalene-benzoyl peroxide: a prospective in vivo imaging study on acne micromorphology and transfollicular delivery

BACKGROUND

Adapalene-benzoyl peroxide (A-BPO) is a first-line topical treatment for acne vulgaris. In vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) and optical coherence tomography (OCT) detect micromorphological changes over time and visualize transfollicular delivery.

OBJECTIVES

To visualize temporal, subclinical effects of A-BPO on acne micromorphology using RCM and OCT, and evaluate their impact on transfollicular delivery of microparticulate carrier systems.

METHODS

Fifteen patients with mild to moderate acne received a 6-week course of A-BPO. Micromorphological changes were evaluated at time 0, 3 and 6 weeks with RCM (n = 1190 images) and OCT (n = 210 scans). Transfollicular delivery of microparticles was assessed at baseline and week 6.

RESULTS

In vivo imaging visualized steady normalization of skin micromorphology in response to A-BPO over 6 weeks, including decreased hyperkeratinization of follicular borders (RCM median decrease -71.2%, P < 0.05), reduced intrafollicular keratinous content (RCM median decrease -47.7%, P < 0.05) and increased epidermal thickness (OCT median increase of 25.25%, P < 0.05). Imaging visualized microparticles in the follicular unit. Despite a visible reduction in keratin and sebum, transfollicular microparticle delivery appeared unaffected.

CONCLUSIONS

Reflectance confocal microscopy and OCT detect A-BPO-induced changes in micromorphology and visualize transfollicular microparticle delivery. Keratolysis and sebolysis did not have a measurable effect on transfollicular delivery of microparticles.

Visible characteristics and structural modifications relating to enlarged facial pores

BACKGROUND

Many factors relate to enlargement and visibility of facial pores. However, how enlargement relates to modification of the skin structure is still poorly analysed. Therefore, our aim was to characterise the visible features and the micro-environment of facial pores.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We recruited 160 women, half of them with normal-size facial pores, the other half presenting enlarged pores. We analysed their right cheek using standardised photography, in vivo reflectance microscopy and optical coherence tomography.

RESULTS

If the area of pores is indeed the most differentiating visible characteristic, enlarged facial pores are also denser and more contrasted. At the structural level, enlarged facial pores present a more regular organisation of keratinocytes, an irregular dermo-epidermal junction and a higher attenuation of collagen between the surface and deeper layers. Still, the most relevant alterations of enlarged facial pores are the presence of bright tubular structures surrounding hair follicles and enlarged hair shafts.

CONCLUSION

These observations suggest that alterations of the stroma could result in altered skin tensions, leading to the dilation of the infundibulum and enlarged hair shaft. The modified tension would also explain the more regular organisation of the keratinocytes and the irregular dermo-epidermal junction.

Changes in facial signs due to age and their respective weights on the perception of age and skin plumpness among differently aged Korean women

OBJECTIVE

To determine the respective weights of certain facial signs on the assessment of perceived age and plumpness on Korean women of different ages.

MATERIAL AND METHODS

Photographs were taken of the faces of 112 Korean women of different ages (18-80 years) under standardized conditions. These photographs allowed to focus and define 19 facial signs, which were then graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using standardized scales provided by a reference Skin Aging Atlas. The facial signs were dispatched into 5 clusters, namely Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheek skin pores. A naïve panel, composed of 92 Korean women, of similar age range were asked, when viewing full-face photographs, to: (a) attribute on a 0-10 scale their perception of the skin plumpness (ie supple/hydrated/nourished) and (b) estimate the age of the subject.

RESULTS

With the exception of Vascular disorders, the severity of all 4 clusters increased with age, although at different rates. The Wrinkles/Texture or Ptosis/Sagging showed a rather regular progression. Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, half of the subjects were judged older by 2-12 years. The facial signs/clusters were significantly correlated with perceived age, with the exceptions of vascular disorders, size of pigmentary spots and cheek skin pores. The weights in perceived ages of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging represent 37% each and Pigmentation disorders at 26%. Skin plumpness was logically found significantly anti-correlated with perceived age. If, surprisingly, Vascular disorders were found not impacting the plumpness aspect, Cheek skin pores presented a clear influence.

CONCLUSION

Within facial clinical clusters, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, and Pigmentation disorders are major factors in the assessment of perceived age in Korean women. The perception of a decreased skin plumpness is significantly associated with increased perceived age.

Microbotox for the treatment of wide facial pores: A promising therapeutic approach

BACKGROUND

Microbotox is the injection of multiple microdroplets of diluted onabotulinum toxin A into the upper dermis. It has been previously used in one study only to decrease pore size and to improve skin texture.

AIMS

To evaluate the efficacy and safety of microbotox in the treatment of wide facial pores.

METHODS

Thirty-five patients with wide facial pores received a single session of microbotox. Objective measurements regarding improvement of pore size (0-4 scale) were recorded by two-blinded dermatologists. The improvements were confirmed by dermoscopic examination. Patient satisfaction was measured by Likert satisfaction scale (1-5 scale). Follow-up of the patients was done for 1 year.

RESULTS

After a single treatment session, the total average of improvement was 87.2%. The average improvement of pore size was 3.7 (0-4 scale). The average patient satisfaction after the end of therapy was 4.7. Dermoscopic evaluation confirmed the reduction in the size and number of pores. There were no serious or long-term side effects.

CONCLUSIONS

A single treatment session of microbotox appears to be safe and effective for the reduction of facial pore size. Improvement of skin texture and oiliness was also observed.

Evaluating the respective weights of some facial signs on perceived ages in differently aged women of five ethnic origins

BACKGROUND

New gratification assessments, after skincare routines or makeup products, could benefit from innovative methods that could predict the culturally based perceptions of age.

AIMS

To determine the facial signs that most influence the perception of age in women of five different ethnic ancestries, assessed by the same ethnical naïve panel.

PATIENTS/METHODS

The faces of 1351 women, differently aged (18-80 years), from five countries (China, France, India, Japan, and South Africa) were photographed under the same standardized conditions in the five countries. Fourteen to 24 facial signs (grouped under five clusters, ie, Wrinkles/Texture, Ptosis/Sagging, Pigmentation disorders, Vascular disorders, and Cheeks skin pores) were focused, and their respective severities were graded using referential Skin Aging Atlases by the same panel of 15 experts and dermatologists. Five naïve panels, all comprising 100 local women, allowed to collect the perceived age, assessed from blind-coded full-face photographs.

RESULTS

Although perceived ages and real ages were found highly correlated, their differences vary according to ethnicities, particularly among a large part of Indian and South African women, judged older by about 5 and 7 years, respectively. Results show that the clusters of Wrinkles/Texture and Ptosis/Sagging are predominant factors taken into account in almost all ethnicities, albeit at various extents, reaching almost 100% in French women. Pigmentation disorders appear important secondary factors in Japanese, South African, and Indian women. Vascular disorders, of a difficult grading in darker skin tones, were found of some impact in Japanese and Chinese women. Cheek skin pores were of minor or nil weight in the attribution of age, at the exception of South African women. Regarding facial areas which drive aging perception, it seems the upper-half face has prevalence for Chinese and Japanese women whereas the lower-half face has major importance for South African women.

CONCLUSION

Facial traits are differently perceived as signs of aging according to un-separable ethnic ancestries and cultural factors.

Efficacy of a collagen hydrolysate and antioxidants-containing nutraceutical on metrics of skin health in Indian women

BACKGROUND

The skin's aging process involves a decreased biosynthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (predominantly collagen) compounded by damage from environmental and intrinsic stressors. The Indian population is susceptible to skin damage given its geography and increasing urbanization or a genetic disposition. Previous studies have investigated nutrients such as collagen peptides, vitamins and phytonutrient-rich botanical extracts for their individual benefits on skin.

AIMS

This study examined the collective effect of a proprietary blend of these nutrients (in Nutrova Collagen+Antioxidants; NCA) on skin parameters, which has not been previously studied, especially in an Indian context.

PATIENTS/METHODS

34 healthy, Indian women (mean age = 39.5 years) were given a placebo daily for 30 days to establish a baseline, followed by NCA for two intervals of 30 days. 3D image reconstruction allowed the analysis of skin topography and blemishes. Instrumental measurements also included skin firmness, elasticity, hydration, and transepidermal water loss. Clinical evaluation was used to grade blemishes, wrinkles and periorbital hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Based on instrumental evaluation, NCA significantly reduced wrinkle width, open pores, skin roughness, and the colour of hyperpigmented blemishes, while improving skin hydration, firmness and barrier function from baseline to Day 30 and Day 60. NCA also increased elasticity at Day 30. Clinical evaluation showed that periorbital hyperpigmentation and wrinkles reduced significantly.

CONCLUSION

NCA is effective for improving overall skin health in Indian women. These results show that targeted nutrient supplementation can improve skin health and further research over extended durations is merited.

Microplastics Exposure Routes and Toxicity Studies to Ecosystems: An Overview

Microplastics (MPs) are now ubiquitous in global ecosystem, therefore all biota is at risk of exposure and potential toxicity. In this study, we presented an overview of information based on literature concerning exposure to MPs and the toxicity of such exposure. Currently, four major routes of exposure have been identified including entanglement, contact, ingestion and inhalation. Humans maybe the most exposed organism because they are at the peak of the food chain. Toxicology effect to marine and freshwater organisms are classified based on exposure dosage as either high (mortality, decreased reproductive output, organ damage) or low (changes in behavior with time). On plants, reports have shown that MPs exposure can affect negatively the growth and depending on exposure concentration and types of MPs and oxidative activities. However, effects on plants maybe short-term and transient. Although, toxicity studies regarding human are still ongoing as per reports, plants and animals are still scantly studied. Animal toxicity studies have widely used D. magna as model specie. MPs pollution may have a knock-on effect on trophic structure and functioning of ecosystems by affecting the base of the food chain. We concluded by identifying the gap in knowledge and give recommendations for future research.

Distinct Habits Of Sun Exposures Lead To Different Impacts On Some Facial Signs Of Chinese Men Of Different Ages

OBJECTIVE

To clinically evaluate the impacts of sun exposures on some facial signs of differently aged Chinese men with a distinct behavior vis à vis sun exposures.

METHODS

Two comparable cohorts of Chinese men (aged 18-75 years old), living in two cities (Shanghai, Hong Kong) were created according to their usual behavior towards sun exposure and through their variable use(s) of a photo-protective product, i.e. non-sun-phobic (N = 127) and sun-phobic (N = 134). Standard photographs (full-face and 45° lateral) allowed to focus on 13 facial signs that were further graded by 15 experts and dermatologists, using a referential Skin Aging Atlas. Absolute differences in the scores of each sign were used (non-sun-phobic minus sun-phobic), by age-classes, to better ascertain the impact of sun exposures and a photo-protecting product, when used.

RESULTS

Most facial signs, particularly wrinkles and skin texture, differentiated the two cohorts. Some others showed some erratic changes with age, albeit more pronounced at older ages. In contrast with previous results obtained in Chinese women, the changes observed in men were not only of a lessened severity but were undetected at early ages (<30 years old). Overall, these different behaviors with regard to sun exposures led to significant differences in the facial signs of Chinese men. The latter can be illustrated by two virtual morphings that combine the impacts of both intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes.

CONCLUSION

The present work illustrates, for the first time, some specificities of the impacts of sun exposures on the facial skin of Chinese men, more expressed at older ages, inversely to those observed in Chinese women, occurring at younger ages.

Airborne microplastics: a review study on method for analysis, occurrence, movement and risks

Microplastics (of size < 5 mm) pollution in our environment is of current concern by researchers, public media and non-governmental organizations. Implications by their presence in aquatic and soil ecosystems have been well studied and documented, but less attention has been paid on airborne microplastics (MPs). Studies concerning airborne microplastics started from 2016 and only a few (n = 13) have been published to date. Although, studies may increase in the following years, since air is very important for human survival. Microplastics have been observed in atmospheric fallouts in indoor and outdoor environments using a sampling or vacuum pump, rain sampler, and/or particulate fallout collector. Identification and quantification have been carried out by visual, spectroscopic, and spectrometric techniques. Factors such as meteorological, climatic, and anthropogenic influence the distribution and movement of airborne MP. Human exposure may be through inhalation, dermal, and open meal during fallout, with their potential biopersistence and translocation. Ingestion may cause localized inflammation and cancer due to responses by the immune cells, especially in individuals with compromised metabolism and poor clearance mechanisms. Ecological risks involve possible contamination of the ecosystem through a dynamic relationship of MPs in soil, water, and air forming a MP contamination cycle. The present review aimed at providing a comprehensive overview of current knowledge or information regarding microplastics in air, identifying gap in knowledge, and giving suggestions for future research.

Comparative study into facial sebum level, pore size, and skin hydration between oily-skinned and dry-skinned Thai women

BACKGROUND

Subjective facial skin type is most frequently determined by the amount of sebum, which showed trends across subjective skin types in most previous studies while not in some. This study was conducted to evaluate the associations among subjective skin type, amount of sebum, stratum corneum hydration, and pore size in Thai women.

METHODS

Sixty-two healthy women with either self-described subjective oily or dry skin type were included and casual sebum level (CSL), sebum excretion rate (SER), clinical pore size score, mean pore area, and stratum corneum hydration were measured at several facial sites. Correlation coefficients between amount of sebum and other parameters were estimated.

RESULTS

Casual sebum level and sebum excretion rate were significantly higher in oily-skinned than dry-skinned group by 1.6-2.1 times. Mean pore area and clinical pore size score were not different between the 2 groups, nor did they correlate with CSL or SER. Corneometry was shown to be significantly higher in dry-skinned than oily-skinned group. Significant, negative correlations between corneometry and CSL were also found.

CONCLUSION

The subjective facial skin types were consistent with the amount of sebum, but not pore size or corneometry, among Thai women.

Bio-derived hydroxystearic acid ameliorates skin age spots and conspicuous pores

INTRODUCTION

We report on the preparation and efficacy of 10-hydroxystearic acid (HSA) that improves facial age spots and conspicuous pores.

METHODS

The hydration of oleic acid into HSA was catalyzed by the oleate hydratase from Escherichia coli. Following treatment with HSA, collagen type I and type III was assessed in primary human dermal fibroblasts together with collagen type III, p53 protein levels and sunburn cells (SBC) after UVB irradiation (1 J cm^-2 ) by immunohistochemistry on human ex vivo skin. UVB-induced expression of matrix metalloprotease-1 (MMP-1) was determined from full thickness skin by RT-qPCR. Modification of the fibroblast secretome by HSA was studied by mass-spectrometry-based proteomics. In a full-face, double blind, vehicle-controlled trial HSA was assessed for its effects on conspicuous facial pore size and degree of pigmentation of age spots in Caucasian women over an 8-week period.

RESULTS

HSA was obtained in enantiomeric pure, high yield (≥80%). Collagen type I and type III levels were dose-dependently increased (96% and 244%; P < 0.01) in vitro and collagen type III in ex vivo skin by +57% (P < 0.01) by HSA. HSA also inhibited UVB-induced MMP-1 gene expression (83%; P < 0.01) and mitigated SBC induction (-34% vs. vehicle control) and reduced significantly UV-induced p53 up-regulation (-46% vs. vehicle control; P < 0.01) in irradiated skin. HSA modified the fibroblast secretome with significant increases in proteins associated with the WNT pathway that could reduce melanogenesis and proteins that could modify dermal fibroblast activity and keratinocyte differentiation to account for the alleviation of conspicuous pores. Docking studies in silico and EC50 determination in reporter gene assays (EC50 5.5 × 10^-6  M) identified HSA as a peroxisomal proliferator activated receptor-α (PPARα) agonist. Clinically, HSA showed a statistically significant decrease of surface and volume of skin pores (P < 0.05) after 8 weeks of application and age spots became significantly less pigmented than the surrounding skin (contrast, P < 0.05) after 4 weeks.

CONCLUSION

HSA acts as a PPARα agonist to reduce the signs of age spots and conspicuous pores by significantly modulating the expression of p53, SBC, MMP-1 and collagen together with major changes in secreted proteins that modify keratinocyte, melanocyte and fibroblast cell behavior.

In Vitro Drug Dissolution/Permeation Testing of Nanocarriers for Skin Application: a Comprehensive Review

This review highlights in vitro drug dissolution/permeation methods available for topical and transdermal nanocarriers that have been designed to modulate the propensity of drug release, drug penetration into skin, and permeation into systemic circulation. Presently, a few of USFDA-approved in vitro dissolution/permeation methods are available for skin product testing with no specific application to nanocarriers. Researchers are largely utilizing the in-house dissolution/permeation testing methods of nanocarriers. These drug release and permeation methods are pending to be standardized. Their biorelevance with reference to in vivo plasma concentration-time profiles requires further exploration to enable translation of in vitro data for in vivo or clinical performance prediction.

Dataset on controlled production of polyhydroxyalkanoate-based microbead using double emulsion solvent evaporation technique

A significant source of microplastics is from the usage of microbeads in the market since petrochemical plastic bead is a material used in cosmetic scrubs. A possible way to counteract the problem is by the substitution of synthetic plastic to natural biodegradable polymer. Polyhydroxyalkanoate (PHA) is a general class of thermoplastic microbial polymer and it is the best alternative to some petrochemical plastics due to its biodegradability. Some PHA has earned its way into cosmetic application due to its biocompatibility. This data article reports data on the development of biodegradable microbeads by using the double emulsion solvent evaporation technique. Our data describe the extraction of biopolymer from marine bacteria that was cultivated in shaken flask culture, removal of endotoxins using oxidizing agent, the production of microbeads using a peristaltic pump with a specific flowrate and silicon tubing, and the cytotoxicity of the microbeads.

Appearance of aging signs in differently pigmented facial skin by a novel imaging system

Background

Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce.

Objective

To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France.

Methods

Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace^®. Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWA_Newtone, and color homogeneity.

Results

We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace^® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWA_Newtone were significantly higher for Caucasians.

Conclusions

The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace^® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Fabrication of optimized skin biomimics for improved interfacial retention of cosmetic emulsions

Retention of hydrophobic active agents on human skin following the use of skin-care formulations is an important indication of the performance of the deposited product. We have developed a novel system which replicates the interaction between human skin and a cosmetic emulsion to systematically establish and characterize the key parameters driving the retention process at the interface. This included a comprehensive study of the skin's biology and physical properties which influenced the process, the fabrication of advanced, improved skin biomimics, the formulation of a cosmetic model-system emulsion, comprising a hydrophobic active agent i.e. petrolatum, commonly used in cosmetic products, the development of a dedicated and highly consistent deposition rig with a corresponding cleaning set-up and the systematic characterization of retention processes on the developed mimics. This study further explores the interplay of petrolatum with skin biomimics and studies the mechanisms that give rise to improved interfacial retention. Petrolatum has been found to create an occlusive layer on the skin mimic, displaying high coverage from emulsion formulations. The large particle size emulsions yielded improved retention on the developed skin biomimics due to the microstructure of the emulsion and the counter effect of the surfactant.

Innovative Natural Ingredients-Based Multiple Emulsions: The Effect on Human Skin Moisture, Sebum Content, Pore Size and Pigmentation

The increased interest in natural cosmetics has resulted in a higher market demand for preservative-free products based on herbal ingredients. An innovative W/O/W type emulsions containing herbal extracts were prepared directly; its cation form was induced by an ethanolic rosemary extract and stabilized using weak herbal gels. Due to the wide phytochemical composition of herbal extracts and the presence of alcohol in the emulsion system, which can cause skin irritation, sensitization or dryness when applied topically, the safety of the investigated drug delivery system is necessary. The aim of our study was to estimate the potential of W/O/W emulsions based on natural ingredients for skin irritation and phototoxicity using reconstructed 3D epidermis models in vitro and to evaluate in vivo its effect on human skin moisture, sebum content and pigmentation by biomedical examination using a dermatoscopic camera and corneometer. According to the results obtained after in vitro cell viability test the investigated emulsion was neither irritant nor phototoxic to human skin keratinocytes. W/O/W emulsion did not cause skin dryness in vivo, despite the fact that it contained ethanol. We can conclude that the emulsion is safe for use as a leave-on product due to the positive effect on human skin characteristics or as a semisolid pharmaceutical base where active compounds could be encapsulated.

Coherent injection of light into an absorbing scattering medium with a microscopic pore

We demonstrate that interplay between absorption and scattering in a dielectric medium with a microscopic pore gives rise to eigenchannels concentrated in the pore. Such a circumvention of attenuation leads to high transmission. By exciting such eigenchannels in a disordered nanophotonic system with a wavefront shaping technique, we experimentally confirm enhanced injection at depths exceeding the limiting length scales set by scattering, absorption, and diffraction.