Recent Advances on Topical Application of Ceramides to Restore Barrier Function of Skin

A Comprehensive Review of the Strategies to Reduce Retinoid-Induced Skin Irritation in Topical Formulation

Currently, retinoids are known for their abundant benefits to skin health, ranging from reducing signs of aging and decreasing hyperpigmentation to treating acne. However, it cannot be denied that there are various side effects associated with the use of retinoids on the skin, one of which is irritation. Several approaches can be employed to minimize the irritation caused by retinoids. This review article discusses topical retinoid formulation technology strategies to reduce skin irritation effects. The methodology used in this study is a literature review of 21 reference journals. The sources used in compiling this review are from PubMed, Scopus, ScienceDirect, and MEDLINE. The findings obtained indicate that the following methods can be used to lessen retinoid-induced irritation in topical formulations: developing drug delivery systems in the formulation, such as encapsulating retinoids, transforming retinoids into nanoparticles, forming complexes (e.g., with cyclodextrin), and binding retinoids with carriers (e.g., polymers, NLC, SLN), adding ingredients with anti-irritation activity, skin barrier improvement, and increased skin hydration to retinoid formulations (e.g., combinations of glucosamine, trehalose, ectoine, sucralfate, omega-9, and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, addition of ethanolic bark extract of Alstonia scholaris R. Br).

Probing the effectiveness of barrier creams against human skin penetration of nickel powder

OBJECTIVE

Barrier creams (BCs) are marketed as locally applied medical devices or cosmetic products to protect the skin from exposure to chemicals and irritants. Generally, the mechanism of action of such products is mainly due to the formation of a superficial thin film between the skin and the irritant or sensitizer, thus reducing or totally blocking the cutaneous penetration of such agents. Specifically, studies focusing on the effectiveness of commercial protective creams to prevent nickel cutaneous penetration are extremely scarce. The aim of the current work, therefore, is to evaluate the protective role of a commercially available barrier cream for nickel and compare the results with a simple moisturizing, following exposure to Ni powder.

METHODS

Marketed BCs were evaluated and tested. Human skin absorption of Ni was studied in vitro using static Franz diffusion cells.

RESULTS

Our results demonstrate that the application of both formulations caused a reduction of Ni inside the skin (8.00 ± 3.35 μg cm-2 for the barrier cream and 22.6 ± 12.6 μg cm-2 for the general moisturizing product), with the specialized barrier cream being statistically (p = 0.015) more efficient on forming a protective barrier, thus evidencing the importance of some ingredients in such formulations on the nickel dermal accumulation.

CONCLUSIONS

The composition of the formulations based on film-forming or chelating agents may play an imperative role in reducing the cutaneous penetration of Ni.

Screening for the production of polyunsaturated fatty acids and cerebrosides in fungi

AIMS

To investigate fatty acid, including polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), and cerebroside production of a large diversity of fungi from the Ascomycota, Basidiomycota, and Mucoromycota phyla.

METHODS AND RESULTS

Seventy-nine fungal strains were grown in Kavadia medium using a microcultivation system, i.e. Duetz microtiter plates. Following cultivation, fatty acid and cerebroside contents were analyzed by gas chromatography-flame ionization detection (GC-FID) and high performance thin-layer chromatography (HPTLC), respectively. Mucoromycota fungi appeared as the most promising candidates for omega-6 PUFA production. The best omega-6 producer, including γ-linolenic acid (GLA, 18:3n-6), was Mucor fragilis UBOCC-A109196 with a concentration of 647 mg L-1 total omega-6 PUFA (representing 35% of total fatty acids) and 225 mg L-1 GLA (representing 12% of total fatty acids). Arachidonic acid concentration (20:4n-6) was the highest in Mortierella alpina UBOCC-A-112046, reaching 255 mg L-1 and 18.56% of total fatty acids. Interestingly, several fungal strains were shown to produce omega-7 monounsaturated fatty acids. Indeed, Torulaspora delbrueckii strains accumulated palmitoleic acid (16:1n-7) up to 20% of total fatty acids, reaching 114 mg L-1 in T. delbrueckii UBOCC-A-214128, while C. elegans UBOCC-A-102008 produced mainly paullinic acid (20:1n-7) with concentrations up to 100 mg L-1. Concerning cerebroside production, HPTLC appeared as a relevant approach for their detection and quantification. Promising candidates belonging to the Mucoromycota phylum were found, especially in the Absidia genus with A. spinosa UBOCC-A-101332 as the best producer (12.7 mg L-1).

CONCLUSIONS

The present study highlighted PUFA and cerebroside production in a large diversity of fungi and the fact that members of the Mucoromycota phylum are good producers of PUFA as well as cerebrosides.

The heterogeneity and complexity of skin surface lipids in human skin health and disease

The outermost epidermal layer of the skin, the stratum corneum, is not simply a barrier that safeguards skin integrity from external insults and invaders, it is also a delicately integrated interface composed of firm, essentially dead corneocytes and a distinctive lipid matrix. Together, the stratum corneum lipid matrix and sebum lipids derived from sebaceous glands give rise to a remarkably complex but quite unique blend of skin surface lipids that demonstrates tremendous heterogeneity and provides the skin with its indispensable protective coating. The stratum corneum lipid matrix is composed primarily of three major lipid classes: ceramides, non-esterified fatty acids and cholesterol, whereas sebum is a waxy mixture predominantly composed of acylglycerols, wax esters, non-esterified fatty acids, squalene, cholesterol and cholesterol esters. The balance of these skin surface lipids in terms of their relative abundance, composition, molecular organisation and dynamics, and their intricate interactions play a crucial role in the maintenance of healthy skin. For that reason, even minuscule alterations in skin surface lipid properties or overall lipid profile have been implicated in the aetiology of many common skin diseases including atopic dermatitis, psoriasis, xerosis, ichthyosis and acne. Novel lipid-based interventions aimed at correcting the skin surface lipid abnormalities have the potential to repair skin barrier integrity and the symptoms associated with such skin diseases, even though the exact mechanisms of lipid restoration remain elusive.

The potential cutaneous benefits of Carthamus tinctorius oleosomes

Safflower (Carthamus tinctorius) oleosomes are unique organelles that house triglycerides and fatty acids and demonstrate a natural resilience to environmental stresses. There is recent growing interest in safflower oleosomes due to their potential applications in dermatology, especially as a carrier technology to improve drug penetration through the skin. This paper explores various aspects of safflower oleosomes, including their production, safety, absorption, and applications in photoprotection and epidermal remodeling. Oleosomes have shown encouraging results in targeted drug delivery in in vitro and in vivo animal models; however, human clinical research is required to determine their efficacy and safety in dermatology. Oleosomes are comprise a novel biotechnology that has the potential to transform sustainable and natural treatments in dermatology by utilizing their unique structure. Safflower oleosomes are stable lipid molecules that can deliver small and large molecules with high efficacy. This review will examine the current research findings and prospective future applications of oleosomes.

Effect of L-4-Thiazolylalanine (Protinol™) on skin barrier strength and skin protection

OBJECTIVES

Skin barrier properties are critical for maintaining epidermal water content, protecting from environmental factors and providing the first line of defense against pathogens. In this study, we investigated the non-proteinogenic amino acid L-4-Thiazolylalanine (L4) as a potential active ingredient in skin protection and barrier strength.

METHODS

L4 on wound healing, anti-inflammatory and anti-oxidant properties were evaluated using monolayers and 3D skin equivalents. The transepithelial electrical resistance (TEER) value was used in vitro as a strong indicator of barrier strength and integrity. Clinical L4 efficacy was assessed for the evaluation of the skin barrier integrity and soothing benefits.

RESULTS

In vitro treatments of L4 show beneficial effects in wound closure mechanism, and we demonstrate that L4 anti-oxidant benefits with markedly increased HSP70 and decreased reactive oxygen species production induced by UVs exposure. Barrier strength and integrity were significantly improved by L4, confirmed clinically by an increase in 12R-lipoxygenase enzymatic activity in the stratum corneum. In addition, soothing benefits of L4 have been shown clinically with the decrease in redness after methyl nicotinate application on the inner arm and the significant reduction of the erythema and the skin desquamation on the scalp.

CONCLUSION

L4 delivered multiple skin benefits by strengthening the skin barrier, accelerating the skin repair process as well as soothing the skin and the scalp with anti-inflammaging effects. The observed efficacy validates L4 as a desirable skincare ingredient for topical treatment.

A novel hydrogel-based moisturizing cream composed of hyaluronic acid for patients with xerosis: An intraindividual comparative analysis

BACKGROUND

Hyaluronic acid (HA) is mainly used to treat xerosis. It also exerts wound-healing, moisturizing, and antiaging effects. Although HA is considered an effective and safe ingredient in cosmetics, there is a constant demand for a more money-saving and effective formulation. This study aimed to evaluate the safety and efficacy of a novel hydrogel-based moisturizer containing HA cross-linked with silicone polymers, produced solely through irradiation without the use of cross-linking agents.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A safety study enrolled 30 participants with healthy skin to perform patch and photopatch tests while recording adverse events. For the efficacy study, 30 participants with xerosis were compared before and after using the novel hydrogel, evaluating the cutaneous barrier function, xerosis severity scale (XSS) score, participant's satisfaction, and Investigator's Global Assessment (IGA). Furthermore, the efficacy of the novel hydrogel-based moisturizer was evaluated by comparing it with a conventional moisturizer, Physiogel, in another 30 participants with xerosis.

RESULTS

In the safety study, no serious adverse events were observed. In the efficacy study before and after use, skin hydration and skin surface lipid increased (p < 0.05) whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) with time. In the comparative efficacy study with Physiogel, skin hydration increased whereas the XSS scores decreased (p < 0.05) over time in both groups. Furthermore, IGA improved in 100% of participants in both groups. Also, 100% and 93% of participants were satisfied with the novel hydrogel-based moisturizer and Physiogel, respectively.

CONCLUSIONS

The novel hydrogel-based moisturizer proved to be safe and effective for xerosis, showing comparable results to the conventional moisturizer.

Insights into acne and the skin barrier: Optimizing treatment regimens with ceramide-containing skincare

INTRODUCTION

Acne is a common, complex, multifactorial inflammatory skin disease associated with epidermal barrier dysfunction. Beginning in childhood, acne affects many adolescents and adults. Acne is associated with lower self-esteem, anxiety, and depression and may cause scars and pigmentary sequelae. The review explores the relationships between acne and the skin barrier function and discusses nuances in the prevention, treatment, and maintenance of acne and its impact on the skin barrier.

METHODS

The advisors' previous publications addressed prescription and nonprescription pediatric acne treatment and skincare using cleansers, moisturizers, and a practical algorithm for treatment and maintenance, including skincare recommendations for pediatric acne patients and an algorithm for skin of color patients with acne. Before the meeting, literature was culled on the relationship between the skin barrier and acne and current best practices in acne, addressing prescription and nonprescription acne products and skincare as monotherapy, adjunctive, and maintenance treatment.

RESULTS

After discussing 13 draft statements, the advisors applied the selected literature and drew from their clinical knowledge and experience, and agreed on five statements. The follicular epithelial barrier is directly involved with changes that occur during both comedogenesis and in stages of inflammation, especially with follicular rupture compromising the barrier's integrity. In acne-affected skin, sebaceous glands are larger, sebum excretion and filaggrin expression higher, and stratum corneum lipids are reduced. Educating patients and clinicians about inflammation's central role in acne and measures to reduce inflammation is essential. Skin irritation and xerosis from acne and treatments lead to poor treatment adherence. A skincare regimen should be included in the acne prevention, treatment, and maintenance care regimen and should be ongoing. Maintenance treatment with topical agents and skincare using gentle ceramide-containing cleansers and moisturizers is a recommended strategy after successfully controlling the disease.

CONCLUSIONS

Epidermal barrier dysfunction contributes to acne exacerbation. Using the appropriate treatment and skincare helps to minimize irritation and inflammation, enhance treatment adherence, and improve patient outcomes.

Development and Comparative Evaluation of Ciprofloxacin Nanoemulsion-Loaded Bigels Prepared Using Different Ratios of Oleogel to Hydrogels

Nanoemulsions and bigels are biphasic delivery systems that can be used for topical applications. The aim of this study was to incorporate an oil-in-water ciprofloxacin hydrochloride nanoemulsion (CIP.HCl NE) into two types of bigels, Type I (oleogel (OL)-in-hydrogel (WH)) and Type II (WH-in-OL) to enhance drug penetration into skin and treat topical bacterial infections. Bigels were prepared at various ratios of OL and WH (1:1, 1:2, and 1:4). Initially, CIP.HCl NE was prepared and characterized in terms of droplet size, zeta potential, polydispersity index, morphology, and thermodynamic and chemical stability. Then CIP.HCl NE was dispersed into the OL or WH phase of the bigel. The primary physical stability studies showed that Type I bigels were physically stable, showing no phase separation. Whereas Type II bigels were physically unstable, hence excluded from the study. Type I bigels were subjected to microstructural, rheological, in vitro release, antimicrobial, and stability studies. The microscopic images showed a highly structured bigel network with nanoemulsion droplets dispersed within the bigel network. Additionally, bigels exhibited pseudoplastic flow and viscoelastic properties. A complete drug release was achieved after 4-5 h. The in vitro and ex vivo antimicrobial studies revealed that bigels exhibited antimicrobial activity against different bacterial strains. Moreover, stability studies showed that the rheological properties and physical and chemical stability varied based on the bigel composition over three months. Therefore, the physicochemical and rheological properties, drug release rate, and antimicrobial activity of Type I bigels could be modified by altering the OL to WH ratio and the phase in which the nanoemulsion dispersed in.

Review of available "extraction + purification" methods of natural ceramides and their feasibility for sewage sludge analysis

Natural ceramide, a biologically active compound present in plants, has been used widely in food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical industries. Abundant ceramide has been detected in sewage sludge, which has inspired the idea to recycle ceramide from it. Therefore, the methods of extracting, purifying, and detecting ceramides from plants were reviewed, with the aim to establish methods to get condensed ceramide from sludge. Ceramide extraction methods include traditional methods (maceration, reflux, and Soxhlet extraction) and green technologies (ultrasound-assisted, microwave-assisted, and supercritical fluid extraction). In the past two decades, more than 70% of the articles have used traditional methods. However, green extraction methods are gradually improved and showed high extraction efficiency with lower solvent consumed. The preferred technique for ceramide purification is chromatography. Common solvent systems include chloroform-methanol, n-hexane-ethyl acetate, petroleum ether-ethyl acetate, and petroleum ether-acetone. For structural determination of ceramide, infrared spectroscopy, nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, and mass spectrometry are used in combination. Among quantitative analysis methods for ceramide, liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry was the most accurate. This review concludes that with our prilemenary experiment results it is feasible to apply the plant "extraction + purification" process of ceramide to sludge, but more optimization need to be performed to get better results.

Evaluating the role of protective creams on the cutaneous penetration of Ni nanoparticles

There is an increase of application of Nickel in the form of nanoparticles (NiNPs) in several fields including modern metallurgy, bioengineering, and medicine. Such growth of the areas of application is actually accompanied with an increase of exposure to Nickel, thus an intensification of the negative effects, the most frequent being the allergic contact dermatitis. Indeed, due to their smaller size, and therefore their higher surface area, NiNPs can release more Ni ions compared to bulk material, that can penetrate and permeate through the skin. To reduce the Ni cutaneous penetration, barrier creams (BC) are applied on the skin surface. There is little information, however, on the efficiency of such commercial protective creams on decreasing Ni cutaneous penetration. For this reason, the objective of the current study was to investigate the protective role of one commercially available formulation for Ni (Nik-L-Block™ containing a chelating agent) and one moisturizing cream (Ceramol 311 basic cream without chelating agent), following exposure to NiNPs, using in vitro Franz cells, as well as the cytotoxicity of NiNPs in primary human dermal fibroblasts was studied. Our results demonstrated that although both tested formulations can decrease Ni accumulation in the skin (4.13 ± 1.74 μg/cm² for Nik-L-Block™ and 7.14 ± 1.46 μg/cm² for Ceramol 311 basic cream); there are significant differences between the two creams (p = 0.004). Based on the experimental evidence, we therefore conclude that the composition of such formulations has an imperative role for dermal uptake of Ni. Finally, NiNPs showed no cytotoxic effect on cultured human dermal fibroblasts after 24 and 72 h.

Cera-Glow, ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201, improves skin barrier function in clinical study

BACKGROUND

Ceramides are essential lipids in stratum corneum for skin permeability barrier function in that they retain the skin moisture and protect from the invasion of foreign pathogens. Previously, we demonstrated that ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201 enhanced ceramide production in human epidermal keratinocytes. Furthermore, for comprehensive knowledge of this effect, in vitro experiments and multi-omics analysis were conducted to explore the underlying mechanisms.

AIMS

This study was designed to identify whether a cosmetic sample (i.e., Cera-Glow) containing the lysates improves the skin barrier function in clinical trials.

PATIENTS/METHODS

Twenty-four female participants (45.46 ± 9.78 years) had been enrolled in the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) measurement for 5 days and 21 female participants (50.33 ± 5.74 years) had undergone a skin hydration evaluation for 4 weeks. TEWL and skin hydration were evaluated using a Tewameter and the Epsilon Permittivity Imaging System, respectively. After applying the Cera-Glow sample, all participants recorded a satisfaction survey questionnaire (e.g., satisfaction, efficacy, and adverse reactions).

RESULTS

Application of Cera-Glow significantly improved transepidermal water loss induced by 1% (w/v) sodium lauryl sulfate (p < 0.05-0.01) and increased skin hydration (p < 0.01). Metabolic analysis suggested that Cera-Glow should contain beneficial gradients for skin barrier function. According to the questionnaire, most of participants were satisfied with the skin hydration improvement and efficacy of Cera-Glow.

CONCLUSIONS

Cera-Glow, ferment lysates of Lacticaseibacillus rhamnosus IDCC 3201, can significantly improve skin barrier function.

Pharmaceutical based cosmetic serums

The growth and demand for cosmeceuticals (cosmetic products that have medicinal or drug-like benefits) have been enhanced for the last few decades. Lately, the newly invented dosage form, i.e., the pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serum has been developed and widely employed in various non-invasive cosmetic procedures. Many pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums contain natural active components that claim to have a medical or drug-like effect on the skin, hair, and nails, including anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, hydrating, moisturizing, repairing, brightening and lightening skin, anti-hair fall, anti-fungal, and nail growth effect, etc. In comparison with other pharmaceutical-related cosmetic products (creams, gels, foams, and lotions, etc.), pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums produce more rapid and incredible effects on the skin. This chapter provides detailed knowledge about the different marketed pharmaceutical-based cosmetic serums and their several types such as facial serums, hair serums, nail serums, under the eye serum, lip serum, hand, and foot serum, respectively. Moreover, some valuable procedures have also been discussed which provide prolong effects with desired results in the minimum duration of time after the few sessions of the serum treatment.

Undescribed glucosylceramide, flavonol triglycoside, and oleanane saponin from the halophyte Agathophora alopecuroides: Promising candidates for stimulating ceramide synthesis

The phytochemical study of Agathophora alopecuroides (Chenopodiaceae) led to the isolation of previously undescribed glucosylceramide, flavonol triglycoside, and triterpene oleanane saponin, together with eight known compounds. Their structures were elucidated using NMR analysis and HR-MS as (2'R, 12E) N-[(2S, 3S, 4R)-1-(β-D-glucopyranosyloxy)-3,4-dihydroxy-octadec-2-yl]-2-hydroxytetracos-12-enamide, namely Agathophamide A; isorhamnetin-3-O-[β-D-xylopyranosyl-(1→3)-α-L-rhamnopyranosyl-(1→6)]-β-D-galactopyranoside, namely Agathophoroside A; and 3-O-[4'-(β-D-xylopyranosyl)-β-D-glucuronopyranosyl]-28-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-olean-12-en-3β-ol-28-oic acid, namely Solysaponin A. We evaluated the effect of extract and isolates on ceramide levels via the up-regulated expression of the enzyme for ceramide synthesis in HaCaT keratinocytes. Interestingly, the study results revealed that the methanol extract of A. alopecuroides, together with some isolated compounds significantly up-regulated the mRNA expression of ceramide synthase-3 by 1.2- to 4.3-fold compared with the control in HaCaT cells. These findings indicate that the halophyte A. alopecuroides is a promising source of candidate compounds that can contribute to ceramide synthesis via the up-regulated expression levels of ceramide synthase-3 in the ceramide synthesis pathway.

Skin microbiome considerations for long haul space flights

Dysbiosis of the human skin microbiome has long been associated with changes to the pH of the skin, dermal immune function and chronic skin conditions. Dermatological issues have been noted as the most prevalent medical presentation in the microgravity environment of space. The change in gravitational forces has been implicated in human immuno-suppression, also impacted by changes in the gastrointestinal-skin axis and its impact on Vitamin D metabolism, altered microbial gene expression in resident flora (leading changes in biofilm formation) and increased virulence factors in potential pathogens. There are also other stressors to the skin microbiome unique to space travel, including increased exposure to radiation, prolonged periods of dry washing technique, air quality and changes in microbe replication and growth parameters. Optimal microbiome health leads to enhanced skin barrier manufacture and maintenance, along with improved skin immune function and healing. In a microgravity environment expected to be experienced during long space flights, disruptions to the skin microbiome, coupled with increased virulence of pathological viruses and bacteria has implications for holistic skin health, astronaut cognitive function and mental health, and is coupled with slowed rates of wound healing. Scenario management for holistic skin health and restoration of microbiome homeostasis on long space flights require consideration.

Effect of Rice (Oryza sativa L.) Ceramides Supplementation on Improving Skin Barrier Functions and Depigmentation: An Open-Label Prospective Study

Ceramides plays a crucial role in maintaining skin barrier function. Although foregoing evidence supported beneficial effects of topical ceramides for restoration of the skin barrier, studies on oral ceramides are extremely scarce, with most published data collected from in vivo and in vitro models. Thus, this study aimed to evaluate the efficacy of rice ceramides (RC) supplementation to improve skin barrier function and as a depigmenting agent through comprehensive clinical assessments. This study investigated the beneficial effects of orally administered RC supplementation in 50 voluntary participants. Skin hydration, firmness and elasticity, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), melanin index (MI), erythema index (EI), sebum production, pH, and wrinkle severity were assessed at baseline and during monthly follow-up visits. RC supplementation was found to significantly (p < 0.01) improve skin hydration, sebum production, firmness and elasticity, and wrinkle severity for three assessed areas, namely the left cheek, dorsal neck, and right inner forearm. Additionally, RC significantly (p < 0.01) reduced the rates of TEWL, levels of MI and EI. Analyses of data indicated that participants at older age were more responsive towards the effect of RC supplementation. Our findings suggest that RC supplementation can effectively improve skin barrier function, reduce wrinkle severity, and reduce pigmentation.

Beneath the Skin: A Review of Current Trends and Future Prospects of Transdermal Drug Delivery Systems

The ideal drug delivery system has a bioavailability comparable to parenteral dosage forms but is as convenient and easy to use for the patient as oral solid dosage forms. In recent years, there has been increased interest in transdermal drug delivery (TDD) as a non-invasive delivery approach that is generally regarded as being easy to administer to more vulnerable age groups, such as paediatric and geriatric patients, while avoiding certain bioavailability concerns that arise from oral drug delivery due to poor absorbability and metabolism concerns. However, despite its many merits, TDD remains restricted to a select few drugs. The physiology of the skin poses a barrier against the feasible delivery of many drugs, limiting its applicability to only those drugs that possess physicochemical properties allowing them to be successfully delivered transdermally. Several techniques have been developed to enhance the transdermal permeability of drugs. Both chemical (e.g., thermal and mechanical) and passive (vesicle, nanoparticle, nanoemulsion, solid dispersion, and nanocrystal) techniques have been investigated to enhance the permeability of drug substances across the skin. Furthermore, hybrid approaches combining chemical penetration enhancement technologies with physical technologies are being intensively researched to improve the skin permeation of drug substances. This review aims to summarize recent trends in TDD approaches and discuss the merits and drawbacks of the various chemical, physical, and hybrid approaches currently being investigated for improving drug permeability across the skin.

Skin immunity: dissecting the complex biology of our body's outer barrier

Our skin contributes critically to health via its role as a barrier tissue, carefully regulating passage of key substrates while also providing defense against exogenous threats. Immunological processes are integral to almost every skin function and paramount to our ability to live symbiotically with skin commensal microbes and other environmental stimuli. While many parallels can be drawn to immunobiology at other mucosal sites, skin immunity demonstrates unique features that relate to its distinct topography, chemical composition and microbial ecology. Here we provide an overview of skin as an immune organ, with reference to the broader context of mucosal immunology. We review paradigms of innate as well as adaptive immune function and highlight how skin-specific structures such as hair follicles and sebaceous glands interact and contribute to these processes. Finally, we highlight for the mucosal immunology community a few emerging areas of interest for the skin immunity field moving forward.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Nanodelivery Strategies for Skin Diseases with Barrier Impairment: Focusing on Ceramides and Glucocorticoids

The human epidermis has a characteristic lipidic composition in the stratum corneum, where ceramides play a crucial role in the skin barrier homeostasis and in water-holding capacity. Several skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis, exhibit a dysfunction in the lipid barrier with altered ceramide levels and increased loss of transepidermal water. Glucocorticoids are normally employed in the therapeutical management of these pathologies. However, they have shown a poor safety profile and reduced treatment efficiency. The main objective of this review is to, within the framework of the limitations of the currently available therapeutical approaches, establish the relevance of nanocarriers as a safe and efficient delivery strategy for glucocorticoids and ceramides in the topical treatment of skin disorders with barrier impairment.

Performance of Oleic Acid and Soybean Oil in the Preparation of Oil-in-Water Microemulsions for Encapsulating a Highly Hydrophobic Molecule

This work analyzes the dispersion of a highly hydrophobic molecule, (9Z)-N-(1,3-dihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl)octadec-9-enamide (ceramide-like molecule), with cosmetic and pharmaceutical interest, by exploiting oil-in-water microemulsions. Two different oils, oleic acid and soybean oil, were tested as an oil phase while mixtures of laureth-5-carboxylic acid (Akypo) and 2-propanol were used for the stabilization of the dispersions. This allowed us to obtain stable aqueous-based formulations with a relatively reduced content of oily phase (around 3% w/w), that may enhance the bioavailability of this molecule by its solubilization in nanometric oil droplets (with a size range of 30–80 nm), that allow the incorporation of a ceramide-like molecule of up to 3% w/w, to remain stable for more than a year. The nanometric size of the droplet containing the active ingredient and the stability of the formulations provide the basis for evaluating the efficiency of microemulsions in preparing formulations to enhance the distribution and availability of ceramide-like molecules, helping to reach targets in cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations.

The emerging role of nanotechnology in skincare

The role of cosmetic products is rapidly evolving in our society, with their use increasingly seen as an essential contribution to personal wellness. This suggests the necessity of a detailed elucidation of the use of nanoparticles (NPs) in cosmetics. The aim of the present work is to offer a critical and comprehensive review discussing the impact of exploiting nanomaterials in advanced cosmetic formulations, emphasizing the beneficial effects of their extensive use in next-generation products despite a persisting prejudice around the application of nanotechnology in cosmetics. The discussion here includes an interpretation of the data underlying generic information reported on the product labels of formulations already available in the marketplace, information that often lacks details identifying specific components of the product, especially when nanomaterials are employed. The emphasis of this review is mainly focused on skincare because it is believed to be the cosmetics market sector in which the impact of nanotechnology is being seen most significantly. To date, nanotechnology has been demonstrated to improve the performance of cosmetics in a number of different ways: 1) increasing both the entrapment efficiency and dermal penetration of the active ingredient, 2) controlling drug release, 3) enhancing physical stability, 4) improving moisturizing power, and 5) providing better UV protection. Specific attention is paid to the effect of nanoparticles contained in semisolid formulations on skin penetration issues. In light of the emerging concerns about nanoparticle toxicity, an entire section has been devoted to listing detailed examples of nanocosmetic products for which safety has been investigated.

Nanoemulsions for the Encapsulation of Hydrophobic Actives

This work analyzes the dispersion of two highly hydrophobic actives, (9Z)-N-(1,3-dihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl)octadec-9-enamide (ceramidelike molecule) and 2,6-diamino-4-(piperidin-1-yl)pyrimidine 1-oxide (minoxidil), using oil-in-water nanoemulsions with the aim of preparing stable and safe aqueous-based formulations that can be exploited for enhancing the penetration of active compounds through cosmetic substrates. Stable nanoemulsions with a droplet size in the nanometric range (around 200 nm) and a negative surface charge were prepared. It was possible to prepare formulations containing up to 2 w/w% of ceramide-like molecules and more than 10 w/w% of minoxidil incorporated within the oil droplets. This emulsions evidenced a good long-term stability, without any apparent modification for several weeks. Despite the fact that this work is limited to optimize the incorporation of the actives within the nanoemulsion-like formulations, it demonstrated that nanoemulsions should be considered as a very promising tool for enhancing the distribution and availability of hydrophobic molecules with technological interest.

Engineering Yarrowia lipolytica for de novo production of tetraacetyl phytosphingosine

AIMS

To genetically engineer the oleaginous yeast Yarrowia lipolytica for de novo production of tetraacetylphytosphingosine (TAPS), a precursor of phytosphingosine, and optimization of fermentation conditions for high yield.

METHODS AND RESULTS

We successfully constructed a TAPS-producing Y. lipolytica CE3 strain by co-expression of Wickerhamomyces ciferrii-derived acetyl transferases, Sli1p and Atf2p. Next, we optimized several environmental factors including temperature, initial pH and C/N ratio for TAPS production in a shake culture. Deletion of LCB4 in CE3 strain increased the volumetric TAPS titre and cell-specific yield to 142·1 ± 10·7 mg_TAPS  l^-1 and 3·08 ± 0·11 mg_TAPS  g_DCW ^-1 , respectively, in a shake flask culture incubated for 120 h at 28°C with glycerol as the carbon source. Finally, we developed a 5-l fed-batch process with NaOH-mediated pH control and olive oil as a carbon source, exhibiting 650 ± 24 mg_TAPS  l^-1 of TAPS production within 56 h of the fermentation.

CONCLUSIONS

The introduction of codon-optimized Sli1p and Atf2p, deletion of LCB4 gene and sexual hybridization, accompanied by specific fermentation conditions, enhanced TAPS yield in Y. lipolytica.

SIGNIFICANCE AND IMPACT OF THE STUDY

Our results highlight Y. lipolytica as a promising candidate for the industrial production of TAPS, an important component of cosmetic formulations.

Safety and Efficacy of Oral Intake of Ceramide-Containing Acetic Acid Bacteria for Improving the Stratum Corneum Hydration: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study over 12 Weeks

The barrier function of the skin protects it from external stresses to which it is constantly exposed, such as dryness, ultraviolet rays, and chemicals. Lipids, in particular a type of sphingolipid known as ceramides, play a central role in the barrier function of the skin by preventing dryness. The number of ceramides in the skin is known to decrease with age, which has led to the development of a large number of anti-aging cosmetic products that contain ceramides. Recently, it has become evident that oral intake of ceramides can also improve the quality of the skin. To elucidate the effects of oral ceramide intake on skin moisture content, we conducted a randomized, double-blinded, placebo-controlled parallel comparative study in which males and females between 20 and 60 years of age who were worried about dry skin ingested a food with acetic acid bacteria containing 0.8 mg of dihydroceramide or a placebo for 12 weeks. Concurrently, we investigated the safety of continuous ingestion of the ceramide-containing food over 12 weeks. Oral intake of ceramide over the 12 weeks significantly improved stratum corneum hydration, i.e. the moisture content of the skin, and did not result in harmful effects in any of the participants.

Efficacy of Nonprescription Moisturizers for Atopic Dermatitis: An Updated Review of Clinical Evidence

Twice-daily moisturization is recommended by international guidelines as the bedrock of the management of atopic dermatitis (AD). Moisturizers should be selected based on proven clinical effectiveness in improving the skin barrier and improving the symptoms of AD. We searched the PubMed database for clinical trials assessing daily moisturization for the treatment of AD published between 2006 and 2019. Studies had to assess the efficacy of commercially available moisturizers using objective measures of corneometry, transepidermal water loss, or incidence of flare as endpoints, and treatments had to be currently available to patients. Clinical studies showed that moisturization (typically twice daily) significantly improved the skin barrier in adults and children with AD. Longer-term flare studies showed that daily moisturization reduced the incidence of flares and extended the time between flares. Proactive moisturization of infants at high risk of developing AD may reduce its manifestation. Therapeutic moisturizers for AD are specifically formulated with ingredients that target symptoms of AD, such as itch, inflammation, or compromised skin barrier. The US FDA requires that any moisturizer available in the USA and claiming to treat AD must contain colloidal oatmeal. Healthcare providers can maximize compliance and outcomes by educating patients on the benefits of liberally applying a therapeutic moisturizer twice daily to support the skin barrier and help reduce the incidence of flares. Specific recommendations should be for clinically tested moisturizers evaluated using objective, validated skin assessments.