Applying Seaweed Compounds in Cosmetics, Cosmeceuticals and Nutricosmetics

Advances in agar-based composites: A comprehensive review

This review article explores the developments and applications in agar-based composites (ABCs), emphasizing various constituents such as metals, clay/ceramic, graphene, and polymers across diversified fields like wastewater treatment, drug delivery, food packaging, the energy sector, biomedical engineering, bioplastics, agriculture, and cosmetics. The focus is on agar as a sustainable and versatile biodegradable polysaccharide, highlighting research that has advanced the technology of ABCs. A bibliometric analysis is conducted using the Web of Science database, covering publications from January 2020 to March 2024, processed through VOSviewer Software Version 1.6.2. This analysis assesses evolving trends and scopes in the literature, visualizing co-words and themes that underscore the growing importance and potential of ABCs in various applications. This review paper contributes by showcasing the existing state-of-the-art knowledge and motivating further development in this promising field.

The perfect match between macroalgae and eutectic solvents as a sustainable gateway to ready-to-use extracts towards a (blue + green) economy ─ A perspective review

The article discusses how aligning with the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) can foster a sustainable economy, mainly through the (green + blue) economy, which involves valorizing macroalgae to produce ready-to-use extracts. It focuses on the potential of eutectic solvents (commonly known as deep eutectic solvents - DES) as promising candidates for this purpose. Traditional methods for extracting bioactive compounds from macroalgae, which rely on organic solvents and aqueous buffers, often involve harsh conditions and extensive processing. These factors can lead to reduced extract quality and/or low yields. In contrast, if properly designed, DES presents a green and sustainable alternative. They offer advantages such as low volatility, adjustable polarity, and negligible toxicity, making them a more environmentally friendly and efficient option for extraction processes. They can be customized to enhance both biological and technological properties, resulting in extracts with unique characteristics such as increased antioxidant activity, antiproliferative and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as improving the viscoelasticity of polysaccharides (fucoidans, alginates, and κ-carrageenan) from macroalgae. In this sense, the tunable nature of DES enables the optimization of extraction conditions to maximize yield, purity, and bioactivity, making it a smart alternative for producing bio-based products. Despite limited literature on DES for this purpose, the article highlights their potential and outlines the main advantages and challenges needed for macroalgae valorization.

Seaweed as a Valuable and Sustainable Resource for Food Packaging Materials

Plastic food packaging causes massive pollution in the environment via resource extraction, gas emissions, and the enduring plastic waste accumulation. Hence, it is of crucial importance to discover sustainable alternatives in order to protect ecosystems and conserve precious resources. Recently, seaweed has been emerging as a promising sustainable solution to plastic pollution. Seaweed is a fast-growing marine plant that is abundant in tropical coastlines and requires minimal resources to cultivate. In addition, seaweed is rich in valuable polysaccharides such as alginate, fucoidan, carrageenan, agar, and ulva, which can be extracted and processed into biodegradable films, coatings, and wraps. This ability allows the creation of an alternative to plastic food packages that are completely biodegradable, made from renewable resources, and do not linger in landfills or oceans for centuries. In this context, this review discusses the main classification of seaweed, their production and abundance in the world, and provides a summary of seaweed-based materials developed in the last 2-5 years for potential usage in the food packaging sector.

Therapeutic potential of fucoidan in central nervous system disorders: A systematic review

Central nervous system (CNS) disorders have a complicated pathogenesis, and to date, no single mechanism can fully explain them. Most drugs used for CNS disorders primarily aim to manage symptoms and delay disease progression, and none have demonstrated any pathological reversal. Fucoidan is a safe, sulfated polysaccharide from seaweed that exhibits multiple pharmacological effects, and it is anticipated to be a novel treatment for CNS disorders. To assess the possible clinical uses of fucoidan, this review aims to provide an overview of its neuroprotective mechanism in both in vivo and in vitro CNS disease models, as well as its pharmacokinetics and safety. We included 39 articles on the pharmacology of fucoidan in CNS disorders. In vitro and in vivo experiments demonstrate that fucoidan has important roles in regulating lipid metabolism, enhancing the cholinergic system, maintaining the functional integrity of the blood-brain barrier and mitochondria, inhibiting inflammation, and attenuating oxidative stress and apoptosis, highlighting its potential for CNS disease treatment. Fucoidan has a protective effect against CNS disorders. With ongoing research on fucoidan, it is expected that a natural, highly effective, less toxic, and highly potent fucoidan-based drug or nutritional supplement targeting CNS diseases will be developed.

How to fight acute sun damage? Current skin care strategies

Excessive exposure to sunlight can contribute for skin photo-damage, such as sunburn, dryness, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, immunosuppressive events and skin sensitization reactions. The use of aftersun products is an effective strategy to reduce the visible signs and symptoms of acute photodamage in the skin. Aiming to unveil the active ingredients able to offset acute sun damage, this work focuses on the characterization of the aftersun products market. A total of 84 after-sun formulations from 41 international brands currently marketed in Portugal were analyzed concerning the composition described on the product label, identifying natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients with the ability to mitigate solar-induced effects. The majority of aftersun formulations contained ingredients derived from terrestrial and marine sources (> 80%). An in-depth examination of these compounds is also offered, revealing the top of the most used natural and synthetic/semi-synthetic ingredients present in aftersun products, as well as their mechanism of action. A critical appraisal of the scientific data was made aiming to highlight the scientific evidence of ingredients able to mitigate skin photodamage. Amino acids and peptides, and A. barbadensis extract were tested for their in vivo efficacy. Nevertheless, all the ingredients were analyzed with in vitro studies as preliminary screening before in vivo, ex vivo and/or clinical studies. In summary, this study provides an overview of the use of active ingredients in commercial aftersun products to understand better the benefits associated with their use in cosmetic formulations and identify opportunities for innovation.

Exploring the therapeutic potential of porphyran extracted from Porphyra haitanensis in the attenuation of DSS-induced intestinal inflammation

Ulcerative colitis is a chronic, spontaneous inflammatory bowel disease that primarily affects the colon. This study aimed to explore how Porphyra haitanensis porphyran (PHP) modulates the immune response and the associated mechanisms that alleviate dextran sulphate sodium-induced colitis in mice. Histological assessments via H&E staining and AB-PAS staining revealed that PHP intervention partially restored the number of goblet cells and improved intestinal mucosal function. Immunohistochemical and Western blot analyses of claudin-1, occludin, and MUC-2 demonstrated that PHP could repair the intestinal barrier and reduce colon damage by upregulating the expression of these proteins. PHP intervention was associated with a decrease in pro-inflammatory cytokine expression and an increase in anti-inflammatory cytokine expression. Moreover, the expression of proteins involved in intestinal immune homing, such as CCR-9, CCL-25, MAdCAM-1, and α4β7, was significantly suppressed in response to PHP treatment. Conversely, PHP upregulates the expression of CD40 and TGF-β1, both of these can promote healing and reduce inflammation in the gut lining. This study demonstrates that PHP can ameliorate ulcerative colitis by enhancing the intestinal barrier and modulating immune responses. These findings offer valuable insights into the potential utility of P. haitanensis as a promising natural product for managing ulcerative colitis.

A review: Structure, bioactivity and potential application of algal polysaccharides in skin aging care and therapy

Skin is the first barrier of body which stands guard for defending aggressive pathogens and environmental pressures all the time. Cutaneous metabolism changes in harmful exposure, following with skin dysfunctions and diseases. Lots of researches have reported that polysaccharides extracted from seaweeds exhibited multidimensional bioactivities in dealing with skin disorder. However, few literature systematically reviews them. The aim of the present paper is to summarize structure, bioactivities and structure-function relationship of algal polysaccharides acting on skin. Algal polysaccharides show antioxidant, immunomodulating, hydration regulating, anti-melanogenesis and extracellular matrix (ECM) regulating abilities via multipath ways in skin. These bioactivities are determined by various parameters, including seaweed species, molecular weight, monosaccharides composition and substitute groups. In addition, potential usages of algae-derived polysaccharides in skin care and therapy are also elaborated. Algal polysaccharides are potential ingredients in formulation that providing anti-aging efficacy for skin.

Green (Ulva fenestrata) and Brown (Saccharina latissima) Macroalgae Similarly Modulate Inflammatory Signaling by Activating NF-κB and Dampening IRF in Human Macrophage-Like Cells

Macroalgae are considered healthy food ingredients due to their content in numerous bioactive compounds, and the traditional use of whole macroalgae in Asian cuisine suggests a contribution to longevity. Although much information is available about the bioactivity of pure algal compounds, such as different polyphenols and polysaccharides, documentation of potential effects of whole macroalgae as part of Western diets is limited. Lifestyle- and age-related diseases, which have a high impact on population health, are closely connected to underlying chronic inflammation. Therefore, we have studied crude extracts of green (Ulva fenestrata) and brown (Saccharina latissima) macroalgae, as two of the most promising food macroalgae in the Nordic countries for their effect on inflammation in vitro. Human macrophage-like reporter THP-1 cells were treated with macroalgae extracts and stimulated with lipopolysaccharide (LPS) to induce inflammatory signalling. Effects of the macroalgae extracts were assessed on transcription factor activity of NF-κB and IRF as well as secretion and/or expression of the cytokines TNF-α and IFN-β and chemokines IL-8 and CXCL10. The crude macroalgae extracts were further separated into polyphenol-enriched and polysaccharide-enriched fractions, which were also tested for their effect on transcription factor activity. Interestingly, we observed a selective activation of NF-κB, when cells were treated with macroalgae extracts. On the other hand, pretreatment with macroalgae extracts selectively repressed IRF activation when inflammatory signaling was subsequently induced by LPS. This effect was consistent for both tested species as well as for polyphenol- and polysaccharide-enriched fractions, of which the latter had more pronounced effects. Overall, this is the first indication of how macroalgae could modulate inflammatory signaling by selective activation and subsequent repression of different pathways. Further in vitro and in vivo studies of this mechanism would be needed to understand how macroalgae consumption could influence the prevention of noncommunicable, lifestyle- and age-related diseases that are highly related to unbalanced inflammatory processes.

Biomedical potency and mechanisms of marine polysaccharides and oligosaccharides: A review

Derived from bountiful marine organisms (predominantly algae, fauna, and microorganisms), marine polysaccharides and marine oligosaccharides are intricate macromolecules that play a significant role in the growth and development of marine life. Recently, considerable attention has been paid to marine polysaccharides and marine oligosaccharides as auspicious natural products due to their promising biological attributes. Herein, we provide an overview of recent advances in the miscellaneous biological activities of marine polysaccharides and marine oligosaccharides that encompasses their anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, anti-diabetes mellitus, and anticoagulant properties. Furthermore, we furnish a concise summary of the underlying mechanisms governing the behavior of these biological macromolecules. We hope that this review inspires research on marine polysaccharides and marine oligosaccharides in medicinal applications while offering fresh perspectives on their broader facets.

The Beneficial Roles of Sargassum spp. in Skin Disorders

As the body's largest organ, the skin is located at the internal and external environment interface, serving as a line of defense against various harmful stressors. Recently, marine-derived physiologically active ingredients have attracted considerable attention in the cosmeceutical industry due to their beneficial effects on skin health. Sargassum, a genus of brown macroalgae, has traditionally been consumed as food and medicine in several countries and is rich in bioactive compounds such as meroterpenoids, sulfated polysaccharides, fucoidan, fucoxanthin, flavonoids, and terpenoids. Sargassum spp. have various beneficial effects on skin disorders. They help with atopic dermatitis by improving skin barrier protection and reducing inflammation. Several species show potential in treating acne by inhibiting bacterial growth and reducing inflammation. Some species, such as Sargassum horneri, demonstrate antiallergic effects by modulating mast cell activity. Certain Sargassum species exhibit anticancer activity by inhibiting tumor growth and promoting apoptosis, and some species help with wound healing by promoting angiogenesis and reducing oxidative stress. Overall, Sargassum spp. demonstrate potential for treating and managing various skin conditions. Therefore, the bioactive compounds of Sargassum spp. may be natural ingredients with a wide range of functional properties for preventing and treating skin disorders. The present review focused on the various biological effects of Sargassum extracts and derived compounds on skin disorders.

Advances in sulfonated modification and bioactivity of polysaccharides

Polysaccharides, as biological macromolecules, are widely found in plants, animals, fungi, and bacteria and exhibit various biological activities. However, many natural polysaccharides exhibit low or non-existent biological activities because of their high molecular weights and poor water solubility, limiting their application in many fields. Sulfonation is one of the most effective chemical modification methods to improve physicochemical properties and biological activities of natural polysaccharides or even impart natural polysaccharides with new biological activities. Therefore, sulfonated polysaccharides have attracted increasing attention because of their antioxidant, anticoagulant, antiviral, and immunomodulatory properties. This paper reviews the recent advances in the sulfonation of polysaccharides, including preparation, characterization, and biological activities of sulfonated polysaccharides, and provides a theoretical basis for wide applications of sulfonated polysaccharides.

The extracellular matrix of green algae

Green algae display a wide range of extracellular matrix (ECM) components that include various types of cell walls (CW), scales, crystalline glycoprotein coverings, hydrophobic compounds, and complex gels or mucilage. Recently, new information derived from genomic/transcriptomic screening, advanced biochemical analyses, immunocytochemical studies, and ecophysiology has significantly enhanced and refined our understanding of the green algal ECM. In the later diverging charophyte group of green algae, the CW and other ECM components provide insight into the evolution of plants and the ways the ECM modulates during environmental stress. Chlorophytes produce diverse ECM components, many of which have been exploited for various uses in medicine, food, and biofuel production. This review highlights major advances in ECM studies of green algae.

Macrocystis pyrifera Lipids Reduce Cytokine-Induced Pro-Inflammatory Signalling and Barrier Dysfunction in Human Keratinocyte Models

Atopic dermatitis is a chronic condition where epidermal barrier dysfunction and cytokine production by infiltrating immune cells exacerbate skin inflammation and damage. A total lipid extract from Macrocystis pyrifera, a brown seaweed, was previously reported to suppress inflammatory responses in monocytes. Here, treatment of human HaCaT keratinocytes with M. pyrifera lipids inhibited tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-α induced TNF receptor-associated factor 2 and monocyte chemoattractant protein (MCP)-1 protein production. HaCaT cells stimulated with TNF-α, interleukin (IL)-4, and IL-13 showed loss of claudin-1 tight junctions, but little improvement was observed following lipid pre-treatment. Three-dimensional cultures of HaCaT cells differentiated at the air-liquid interface showed increased MCP-1 production, loss of claudin-1 tight junctions, and trans-epidermal leakage with TNF-α, IL-4, and IL-13 stimulation, with all parameters reduced by lipid pre-treatment. These findings suggest that M. pyrifera lipids have anti-inflammatory and barrier-protective effects on keratinocytes, which may be beneficial for the treatment of atopic dermatitis or other skin conditions.

High-sulfated derivative of polysaccharide from Ulva pertusa improves Adriamycin-induced nephrotic syndrome by suppressing oxidative stress

Nephrotic syndrome (NS) is characterized by proteinuria, hyperlipidemia, and hypoalbuminemia. Ulva pertusa, a green seaweed, is a nutritional supplement. In this study, the high-sulfated derivative of Ulva pertusa polysaccharide (HU) was prepared by combining U pertusa polysaccharide with chlorosulfonic acid. The NS rat model was established by tail vein single injection of Adriamycin (6.0 mg kg-1). Normal rats were used as the control group. NS rat models were treated with HU or U (173 mg kg-1 day-1). After treatment for 6 weeks, we assessed urine protein, renal function, and blood lipids, and observed morphology and histologic injury of the kidney and glomerular microstructure. Furthermore, we detected antioxidant enzyme activity and expression level of the Keap1/Nrf2 signaling pathway to explore the potential mechanism of HU. Results showed that HU not only alleviated hyperlipidemia and hypoalbuminemia, but also reduced urine protein by inhibiting podocyte detachment, thickening of the glomerular basement membrane, and expression of kidney fibrosis markers (collagens I and IV). In addition, HU enhanced antioxidant enzyme activity (GSH-Px, CAT, SOD) in both serum and the kidney, which may be due to upregulating the expression of Nrf2 and downregulating the expression of Keap1. In conclusion, HU appears to be effective in attenuating NS in rats through suppressing oxidative stress by regulating the Keap1/Nrf2 signaling pathway.

Synthesis and Characterization of a New Alginate/Carrageenan Crosslinked Biopolymer and Study of the Antibacterial, Antioxidant, and Anticancer Performance of Its Mn(II), Fe(III), Ni(II), and Cu(II) Polymeric Complexes

Natural polysaccharides are essential to a wide range of fields, including medicine, food, and cosmetics, for their various physiochemical and biological properties. However, they still have adverse effects limiting their further applications. Consequently, possible structural modifications should be carried out on the polysaccharides for their valorization. Recently, polysaccharides complexed with metal ions have been reported to enhance their bioactivities. In this paper, we synthesized a new crosslinked biopolymer based on sodium alginate (AG) and carrageenan (CAR) polysaccharides. The biopolymer was then exploited to form complexes with different metal salts including MnCl₂·4H₂O, FeCl₃·6H₂O, NiCl₂·6H₂O, and CuCl₂·2H₂O. The four polymeric complexes were characterized by Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR), elemental analysis, ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy (UV-Vis), magnetic susceptibility, molar conductivity methods, and thermogravimetric analysis. The X-ray crystal structure of the Mn(II) complex is tetrahedral and belongs to the monoclinic crystal system with the space group P121/n1. The Fe(III) complex is octahedral and crystal data fit with the cubic crystal system with the space group Pm-3m. The Ni(II) complex is tetrahedral and crystal data correspond to the cubic crystal arrangement with the space group Pm-3m. The data estimated for the Cu(II) polymeric complex revealed that it is tetrahedral and belongs to the cubic system with the space group Fm-3m. The antibacterial study showed significant activity of all the complexes against both Gram-positive bacteria (Staphylococcus aureus and Micrococcus luteus) and Gram-negative (Escherichia coli and Salmonella typhimurium) pathogenic strains. Similarly, the various complexes revealed an antifungal activity against Candida albicans. The Cu(II) polymeric complex recorded a higher antimicrobial activity with an inhibitory zone reaching 4.5 cm against Staphylococcus aureus bacteria and the best antifungal effect of 4 cm. Furthermore, higher antioxidant values of the four complexes were obtained with DPPH scavenging activity varying from 73 to 94%. The two more biologically effective complexes were then selected for the viability cell assessments and in vitro anticancer assays. The polymeric complexes revealed excellent cytocompatibility with normal human breast epithelial cells (MCF10A) and a high anticancer potential with human breast cancer cells (MCF-7) which increase significantly in a dose-dependent manner.

The Potential of Algae in the Nutricosmetic Sector

Seaweeds or algae are marine autotrophic organisms. They produce nutrients (e.g., proteins, carbohydrates, etc.) essential for the survival of living organisms as they participate in biochemical processes and non-nutritive molecules (such as dietary fibers and secondary metabolites), which can improve their physiological functions. Seaweed polysaccharides, fatty acids, peptides, terpenoids, pigments, and polyphenols have biological properties that can be used to develop food supplements and nutricosmetic products as they can act as antibacterial, antiviral, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds. This review examines the (primary and secondary) metabolites produced by algae, the most recent evidence of their effect on human health conditions, with particular attention to what concerns the skin and hair's well-being. It also evaluates the industrial potential of recovering these metabolites from biomass produced by algae used to clean wastewater. The results demonstrate that algae can be considered a natural source of bioactive molecules for well-being formulations. The primary and secondary metabolites' upcycling can be an exciting opportunity to safeguard the planet (promoting a circular economy) and, at the same time, obtain low-cost bioactive molecules for the food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries from low-cost, raw, and renewable materials. Today's lack of methodologies for recovering bioactive molecules in large-scale processes limits practical realization.

An overview on the nutritional and bioactive components of green seaweeds

Green seaweed, as the most abundant species of macroseaweeds, is an important marine biological resource. It is a rich source of several amino acids, fatty acids, and dietary fibers, as well as polysaccharides, polyphenols, pigments, and other active substances, which have crucial roles in various biological processes such as antioxidant activity, immunoregulation, and anti-inflammatory response. In recent years, attention to marine resources has accelerated the exploration and utilization of green seaweeds for greater economic value. This paper elaborates on the main nutrients and active substances present in different green seaweeds and provides a review of their biological activities and their applications for high-value utilization.

Graphical abstract

The Prospects of Algae-Derived Vitamins and Their Precursors for Sustainable Cosmeceuticals

Aquatic algae are a rich source of a wide range of bioproducts intended to compete for a sizable global market share. Thanks to the gradual shift towards the use of natural products, microalgae-derived bioactive compounds offer an ecofriendly and vegan option to the cosmeceutical sector, whose products aim to improve skin health but currently consist of mostly synthetic chemicals. In particular, algae-derived vitamins and their precursors are being explored and widely used in the cosmeceuticals industry as compounds that contain biologically active ingredients with therapeutic benefits. The present review highlights the current strategies for industrial production of an array of vitamins from algae for cosmeceutical applications. When compared to traditional plant sources, algae have been found to accumulate vitamins, such as A, B1, B2, B6, B12, C and E, in high concentrations. The purpose of this review is to provide context for the development of a green and sustainable algae-derived bioeconomy by summarizing and comparing the current market for vitamins and precursors derived from algae, as well as presenting novel strategies and key findings from the most recent research in this area. Emphasis is placed on novel biotechnological interventions that encompass genetic modifications, genetic engineering, and media development to enhance vitamin biosynthesis.

Biotechnologically potential genes in a polysaccharide-degrading epibiont of the Indonesian brown algae Hydroclathrus sp

BACKGROUND

Marine bacteria have recently attracted increasing attention to be harnessed for the production of valuable enzymes, vitamins, and bioactive compounds. Bacteria associated with the surfaces of marine macroalgae, called epibionts, are particularly interesting from ecological and biotechnological points of view, as they often exhibit antimicrobial activities to compete with pathogenic bacteria for nutrients and spaces. In search for biotechnologically potential genes from marine bacteria, we sequenced and analysed the genome of the epibiont HI03-3b, a polysaccharide-degrading bacterium associated with the surface of the Indonesian brown algae Hydroclathrus sp.

RESULTS

The algal epibiont HI03-3b has a genome of approximately 4,860,704 bp in size with 42.02 mol% G + C content, consisting of 5655 open reading frames (ORFs), 4409 genes coding for proteins (CDSs), 94 genes for tRNAs, and 32 genes for rRNAs. The genome sequence of HI03-3b was most closely related to that of Cytobacillus firmus NCTC10335 with the average amino acid identity (AAI) of 95.0 %, average nucleotide identity (ANI) of 94.1 %, and a recommended DNA-DNA hybridization (DDH) of 57.60 %. These scores are lower than the most frequently used standard for species demarcation (95% ANI cutoff) and the new species threshold (DDH > 70.0% for the same bacterial species). Some differences in genome features and gene composition were observed between HI03-3b and NCTC10335, such as genes encoding carbohydrate active enzymes. These suggest that HI03-3b is unique and likely a novel species within Cytobacillus genus, and we therefore proposed its name as Cytobacillus wakatobiense HI03-3b. Genome sequence analyses indicated the presence of genes involved not only in polysaccharide and protein degradation but also in vitamin and secondary metabolite biosynthesis. Some of them encode enzymes and compounds with biotechnological interest, such as protease, chitinase, subtilisin, pullulanase, and bacillolysin, which are often associated with antimicrobial or antibiofilm activities. This antimicrobial potential is supported by our finding that the extracellular protein fraction of this epibiont inhibited the growth of the bacterial pathogen Staphylococcus aureus.

CONCLUSION

The epibiont Cytobacillus HI03-3b harbours genes for polysaccharide and protein degradation as well as for natural product biosynthesis, suggesting its potential ecological roles in outcompeting other bacteria during biofilm formation as well as in protecting its algal host from predation. Due to the presence of genes for vitamin biosynthesis, it might also provide the algal host with vitamins for growth and development. Some of these metabolic genes are biotechnologically important, as they could become a platform for bioengineering to generate various seaweed-derived substances sustainably, such as antibiofilm agents and vitamins, which are beneficial for human health.

Seaweed for climate mitigation, wastewater treatment, bioenergy, bioplastic, biochar, food, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics: a review

The development and recycling of biomass production can partly solve issues of energy, climate change, population growth, food and feed shortages, and environmental pollution. For instance, the use of seaweeds as feedstocks can reduce our reliance on fossil fuel resources, ensure the synthesis of cost-effective and eco-friendly products and biofuels, and develop sustainable biorefinery processes. Nonetheless, seaweeds use in several biorefineries is still in the infancy stage compared to terrestrial plants-based lignocellulosic biomass. Therefore, here we review seaweed biorefineries with focus on seaweed production, economical benefits, and seaweed use as feedstock for anaerobic digestion, biochar, bioplastics, crop health, food, livestock feed, pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Globally, seaweeds could sequester between 61 and 268 megatonnes of carbon per year, with an average of 173 megatonnes. Nearly 90% of carbon is sequestered by exporting biomass to deep water, while the remaining 10% is buried in coastal sediments. 500 gigatonnes of seaweeds could replace nearly 40% of the current soy protein production. Seaweeds contain valuable bioactive molecules that could be applied as antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiviral, antifungal, anticancer, contraceptive, anti-inflammatory, anti-coagulants, and in other cosmetics and skincare products.

An extensive review of marine pigments: sources, biotechnological applications, and sustainability

The global demand for food and healthcare products based on natural compounds means that the industrial and scientific sectors are on a continuous search for natural colored compounds that can contribute to the replacement of synthetic colors. Natural pigments are a heterogeneous group of chemical molecules, widely distributed in nature. Recently, the interest in marine organisms has increased as they represent the most varied environment in the world and provide a wide range of colored compounds with bioactive properties and biotechnological applications in areas such as the food, pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and textile industries. The use of marine-derived pigments has increased during the last two decades because they are environmentally safe and healthy compounds. This article provides a comprehensive review of the current knowledge of sources, applications, and sustainability of the most important marine pigments. In addition, alternatives to protect these compounds from environmental conditions and their applications in the industrial sector are reviewed.

Rhodophyta as Potential Sources of Photoprotectants, Antiphotoaging Compounds, and Hydrogels for Cosmeceutical Application

Seaweeds are macroscopic, multicellular, eukaryotic and photosynthetic organisms, and are a source of chemical diversity with powerful biological activities for diversified industrial applications including cosmeceuticals. Red seaweeds (Rhodophyta) are good sources of Mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA) for photoprotectant and antiphotoaging compounds. In addition, Rhodophyta are also good sources for hydrogel compounds that are used widely in the food, pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical industries as gelling agents, moisturizers or for their antiphotoaging effects. Our survey and ongoing studies revealed that the biodiversity of Indonesian Rhodophyta is rich and is a treasure trove for cosmeceutical agents including MAA and hydrogels. This study delivers valuable information for identifying potential red seaweeds in screening and searching for cosmeceutical agents.

Global seaweed farming and processing in the past 20 years

Seaweed has emerged as one of the most promising resources due to its remarkable adaptability, short development period, and resource sustainability. It is an effective breakthrough to alleviate future resource crises. Algal resources have reached a high stage of growth in the past years due to the increased output and demand for seaweed worldwide. Several aspects global seaweed farming production and processing over the last 20 years are reviewed, such as the latest situation and approaches of seaweed farming. Research progress and production trend of various seaweed application are discussed. Besides, the challenges faced by seaweed farming and processing are also analyzed, and the related countermeasures are proposed, which can provide advice for seaweed farming and processing. The primary products, extraction and application, or waste utilization of seaweed would bring greater benefits with the continuous development and improvement of applications in various fields.

Graphical Abstract

Recent developments in biorefining of macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications - A circular economy approach

The macroalgal industry is expanding, and the quest for novel ingredients to improve and develop innovative products is crucial. Consumers are increasingly looking for natural-derived ingredients in cosmetic products that have been proven to be effective and safe. Macroalgae-derived compounds have growing popularity in skincare products as they are natural, abundant, biocompatible, and renewable. Due to their high biomass yields, rapid growth rates, and cultivation process, they are gaining widespread recognition as potentially sustainable resources better suited for biorefinery processes. This review demonstrates macroalgae metabolites and their industrial applications in moisturizers, anti-aging, skin whitening, hair, and oral care products. These chemicals can be obtained in combination with energy products to increase the value of macroalgae from an industrial perspective with a zero-waste approach by linking multiple refineries. The key challenges, bottlenecks, and future perspectives in the operation and outlook of macroalgal biorefineries were also discussed.

Targeted Isolation of Two New Anti-inflammatory and UV-A Protective Dipyrroloquinones from the Sponge-associated Fungus Aspergillus tamarii MCCF102

In following up on observed in vitro anti-inflammatory activity of the organic extract of the marine sponge-derived fungus Aspergillus tamarii MCCF102, two new dipyrrolobenzoquinones, terreusinone B and C (1: and 2: ), were discovered along with the known analogue, terreusinone (3: ). The structures of 1: -3: were determined by spectroscopic and spectrometric analyses, along with chemical inter-conversion. In vitro testing on lipopolysaccharide (LPS) stimulated RAW 264.7 murine macrophage cells revealed that 1: -3: exhibit anti-inflammatory activity by inhibiting nitric oxide production in a dose-dependent manner (IC₅₀ < 1 µM) without any cytotoxicity observed at the same concentrations. Due to this and the UV-A absorptive properties imparted by the highly conjugated structures of these molecules, the potential for using 1: -3: or related analogues as natural sunscreen components is suggested. Gene sequencing and informatics biosynthetic gene cluster comparisons were insufficient to confidently elucidate the biosynthetic origins of these compounds, possibly suggesting the occurrence of a gene cluster not detected in the initial sequencing or a non-canonical pathway that should be further investigated.

Formulation and Physicochemical Evaluation of Green Cosmeceutical Herbal Face Cream Containing Standardized Mangosteen Peel Extract

The widely reported adverse effects of synthetic ingredients encourage the development of green cosmeceuticals to achieve Sustainable Development Goal (SDG) 3. The waste product of mangosteen (mangosteen peel) was utilized in the formulation to reduce waste production corresponding to SDG 12, in addition to its anti-aging and pigmentation control effects. This study aimed to formulate and evaluate novel herbal face creams containing standardized mangosteen peel extract. The mangosteen creams were formulated using natural ingredients and were evaluated for their organoleptic characteristics, rheology, spreadability and pH. Furthermore, an accelerated stability study, freeze–thaw stability study and centrifugation test were conducted. In addition, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2′-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS) radical scavenging assays were conducted to assess its antioxidant effects, whereas tyrosinase inhibitory assay was conducted to determine its anti-tyrosinase activity. The formulated creams appeared light yellowish-brown and homogenous without phase separation. The creams displayed shear-thinning behavior and optimal pH which was ideal for topical application. The creams were stable after being subjected to various stability tests and were shown to have antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity. In conclusion, the development of mangosteen-based green cosmeceutical face cream is in line with SDG 3 and 12. It is expected to be used as a safe and effective alternative to synthetic products.

Characterization of Fatty Acids, Polysaccharides, Amino Acids, and Minerals in Marine Macroalga Chaetomorpha crassa and Evaluation of Their Potentials in Skin Cosmetics

Cosmetic industries are highly committed to finding natural sources of functional active constituents preferable to safer materials to meet consumers' demands. Marine macroalgae have diversified bioactive constituents and possess potential benefits in beauty care products. Hence, the present study was carried out to characterize the biochemical profile of marine macroalga Chaetomorpha crassa by using different techniques for revealing its cosmetic potentials. In results, the FTIR study characterized the presence of different bioactive functional groups that are responsible for many skin-beneficial compounds whereas six and fifteen different important phycocompounds were found in GCMS analysis of ethanolic and methanolic extracts, respectively. In the saccharide profile of C. crassa, a total of eight different carbohydrate derivatives were determined by the HRLCMS Q-TOF technique, which showed wide varieties of cosmetic interest. In ICP AES analysis, Si was found to be highest whereas Cu was found to be lowest among other elements. A total of twenty-one amino acids were measured by the HRLCMS-QTOF technique, which revealed the highest amount of the amino acid, Aspartic acid (1207.45 nmol/mL) and tyrosine (106.77 nmol/mL) was found to be the lowest in amount among other amino acids. Their cosmetic potentials have been studied based on previous research studies. The incorporation of seaweed-based bioactive components in cosmetics has been extensively growing due to its skin health-promoting effects.