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Lau M, Mineroff Gollogly J, Wang JY, Jagdeo J. Cosmeceuticals for antiaging: a systematic review of safety and efficacy. Arch Dermatol Res 2024; 316:173. [PMID: 38758222 DOI: 10.1007/s00403-024-02908-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/28/2023] [Revised: 02/16/2024] [Accepted: 04/26/2024] [Indexed: 05/18/2024]
Abstract
Cosmeceuticals, the bridge between pharmaceuticals and cosmetics, contain biologically active ingredients that may improve the skin's overall appearance. As the market, accessibility, and popularity of cosmeceuticals increase, it is essential to understand the safety and efficacy of such products. This systematic review aims to examine published clinical studies involving the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging to provide evidence-based recommendations based on available efficacy and safety data. PubMed, Embase, and Cochrane were systematically searched on January 1, 2023 using PRISMA guidelines. Strength of evidence was graded using the Oxford Centre for Evidence-Based Medicine guidelines. Clinical recommendations were made based on the quality of the existing literature. A total of 153 articles regarding the use of cosmeceuticals for treatment of antiaging were identified. After screening of titles, abstracts, and full text, 32 studies involving 1236 patients met inclusion criteria, including 20 randomized controlled trials (RCTs) and 12 non-randomized open-label clinical trials for Vitamin C, Retinol, Bakuchiol, Tetrahydrojasmonic acid, Growth Factors, Methyl Estradiolpropanoate, Timosaponin A-III (TA-III), Protocatechuic acid, Grammatophyllum speciosum, and Jasmine rice panicle extract. Retinol and vitamin C for antiaging received a Grade A for recommendation. Methyl estradiolpropanoate, bakuchiol, tetrahydrojasmonic acid, and growth factors received a recommendation grade of C. The remaining ingredients were assigned an inconclusive grade of recommendation due to lack of evidence. Cosmeceuticals included in the review had favorable safety profiles with few significant adverse events. The review analyzes numerous different ingredients to provide an evidence-based approach to decision-making for consumers and physicians on the use of cosmeceuticals for antiaging. Limitations to our review include a limited number of randomized controlled trials and a need for long-term data on each cosmeceutical's efficacy and safety. Future research is needed to establish the long-term effectiveness and safety of cosmeceuticals.
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Affiliation(s)
- Megan Lau
- New York University Grossman Long Island School of Medicine, Mineola, NY, USA
| | - Jessica Mineroff Gollogly
- Department of Dermatology, State University of New York, Downstate Health Sciences University, Brooklyn, NY, USA
- Dermatology Service, Veterans Affairs New York Harbor Healthcare System - Brooklyn Campus, Brooklyn, NY, USA
| | - Jennifer Y Wang
- Department of Dermatology, State University of New York, Downstate Health Sciences University, Brooklyn, NY, USA
| | - Jared Jagdeo
- Department of Dermatology, State University of New York, Downstate Health Sciences University, Brooklyn, NY, USA.
- Dermatology Service, Veterans Affairs New York Harbor Healthcare System - Brooklyn Campus, Brooklyn, NY, USA.
- Department of Dermatology, SUNY Downstate Medical Center, 450 Clarkson Avenue, 8th Floor, Brooklyn, NY, 11203, USA.
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Almeman A. The digital transformation in pharmacy: embracing online platforms and the cosmeceutical paradigm shift. J Health Popul Nutr 2024; 43:60. [PMID: 38720390 PMCID: PMC11080122 DOI: 10.1186/s41043-024-00550-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 02/14/2024] [Accepted: 04/09/2024] [Indexed: 05/12/2024]
Abstract
In the face of rapid technological advancement, the pharmacy sector is undergoing a significant digital transformation. This review explores the transformative impact of digitalization in the global pharmacy sector. We illustrated how advancements in technologies like artificial intelligence, blockchain, and online platforms are reshaping pharmacy services and education. The paper provides a comprehensive overview of the growth of online pharmacy platforms and the pivotal role of telepharmacy and telehealth during the COVID-19 pandemic. Additionally, it discusses the burgeoning cosmeceutical market within online pharmacies, the regulatory challenges faced globally, and the private sector's influence on healthcare technology. Conclusively, the paper highlights future trends and technological innovations, underscoring the dynamic evolution of the pharmacy landscape in response to digital transformation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ahmad Almeman
- Department of Pharmacology, College of Medicine, Qassim University, Buraydah, Saudi Arabia.
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Nirmal N, Demir D, Ceylan S, Ahmad S, Goksen G, Koirala P, Bono G. Polysaccharides from shell waste of shellfish and their applications in the cosmeceutical industry: A review. Int J Biol Macromol 2024; 265:131119. [PMID: 38522682 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2024.131119] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/23/2023] [Revised: 03/20/2024] [Accepted: 03/21/2024] [Indexed: 03/26/2024]
Abstract
Shell waste from shellfish processing contains valuable natural polysaccharides, including sulfated polysaccharides, acidic polysaccharides, glycosaminoglycans, chitin and their derivatives. These shellfish waste-derived polysaccharides have numerous functional and biological properties that can be applied in various industries, including the cosmeceutical industry. In keeping with global sustainability and green industry trends, the cosmeceuticals industry is transitioning from petrochemical-based ingredients to natural substitutes. In this context, shell waste-derived polysaccharides and their derivatives can play a major role as natural substitutes for petroleum-based components in various cosmeceutical skincare, hair care, oral care and body care products. This review focuses on the presence of polysaccharides and their derivatives in shell waste and discusses their various cosmeceutical applications in skin care, hair care, sun care, oral care and body care products. This indicates that shell waste utilization will help create a circular economy in which extracted polysaccharides are used to produce green cosmeceutical products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Nilesh Nirmal
- Institute of Nutrition, Mahidol University, 999 Phutthamonthon 4 Road, Salaya, Nakhon Pathom 73170, Thailand.
| | - Didem Demir
- Department of Chemistry and Chemical Process Technologies, Vocational School of Technical Sciences at Mersin Tarsus Organized Industrial Zone, Tarsus University, 33100 Mersin, Türkiye
| | - Seda Ceylan
- Department of Bioengineering, Faculty of Engineering, Adana Alparslan Turkes Science and Technology University, 01250 Adana, Türkiye
| | - Sameer Ahmad
- Food Technology Department, Jamia Hamdard, G782+55X, Mehrauli - Badarpur Rd, Hamdard Nagar, New Delhi, Delhi 110062, India
| | - Gulden Goksen
- Department of Food Technology, Vocational School of Technical Sciences at Mersin Tarsus Organized Industrial Zone, Tarsus University, 33100 Mersin, Türkiye
| | - Pankaj Koirala
- Institute of Nutrition, Mahidol University, 999 Phutthamonthon 4 Road, Salaya, Nakhon Pathom 73170, Thailand
| | - Gioacchino Bono
- Institute for Biological Resources and Marine Biotechnologies, National Research Council (IRBIM-CNR), Via L. Vaccara 61, 91026 Mazara del Vallo, TP, Italy; Dipartimento di Scienze e Tecnologie Biologiche, Chimiche e Farmaceutiche (STEBICEF), Università Di Palermo, Palermo, Italy
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Ahmed IA, Mikail MA. Diet and skin health: The good and the bad. Nutrition 2024; 119:112350. [PMID: 38232577 DOI: 10.1016/j.nut.2023.112350] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/04/2023] [Revised: 12/04/2023] [Accepted: 12/29/2023] [Indexed: 01/19/2024]
Abstract
The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.
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Affiliation(s)
- Idris Adewale Ahmed
- Department of Biotechnology, Faculty of Applied Science, Lincoln University College, Kelana Jaya 47301 Petaling Jaya, Selangor, Malaysia.; Mimia Sdn. Bhd., Selangor, Malaysia.
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Garg P, Pundir S, Ali A, Panja S, Chellappan DK, Dua K, Kulshrestha S, Negi P. Exploring the potential of Moringa oleifera Lam in skin disorders and cosmetics: nutritional analysis, phytochemistry, geographical distribution, ethnomedicinal uses, dermatological studies and cosmetic formulations. Naunyn Schmiedebergs Arch Pharmacol 2023:10.1007/s00210-023-02862-2. [PMID: 38055069 DOI: 10.1007/s00210-023-02862-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/17/2023] [Accepted: 11/17/2023] [Indexed: 12/07/2023]
Abstract
Moringa oleifera Lam. is a pan-tropical plant well known to the ancient world for its extensive therapeutic benefits in the Ayurvedic and Unani medical systems. The ancient world was familiar with this tree, but it has only lately been rediscovered as a multifunctional species with a huge range of possible therapeutic applications. It is a folk remedy for skin diseases, edema, sore gums, etc. This review comprises the history, ethnomedicinal applications, botanical characteristics, geographic distribution, propagation, nutritional and phytochemical profile, dermatological effects, and commercially available cosmeceuticals of Moringa oleifera Lam.Compilation of all the presented data has been done by employing various search engines like Science Direct, Google, PubMed, Research Gate, EBSCO, SciVal, SCOPUS, and Google Scholar.Studies on phytochemistry claim the presence of a variety of substances, including fatty acids, phenolic acids, sterols, oxalates, tocopherols, carotenoids, flavonoids, flavonols glycosides, tannins, terpenoids, terpene, saponins, phylates, alkaloids, glucosinolates, glycosides, and isothiocyanate. The pharmacological studies have shown the efficacy of Moringa oleifera Lam. as an antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-atopic dermatitis, antipsoriatic, promoter of wound healing, effective in treating herpes simplex virus, photoprotective, and UV protective. As a moisturizer, conditioner, hair growth promoter, cleanser, antiwrinkle, anti-aging, anti-acne, scar removal, pigmentation, and control for skin infection, sores, as well as sweating, it has also been utilized in a range of cosmeceuticals.he Moringa oleifera Lam. due to its broad range of phytochemicals can be proven boon for the treatment of dermatological disorders.
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Affiliation(s)
- Prakrati Garg
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
- Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Swati Pundir
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Aaliya Ali
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
- Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Sebika Panja
- School of Bioengineering and Food Technology, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Dinesh Kumar Chellappan
- Department of Life Sciences, School of Pharmacy, International Medical University (IMU), Bukit Jalil 57000, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
| | - Kamal Dua
- Discipline of Pharmacy, Graduate School of Health, University of Technology Sydney, Sydney, NSW, 2007, Australia
| | - Saurabh Kulshrestha
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India.
- Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India.
| | - Poonam Negi
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, PO Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India.
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Di Lorenzo R, Forgione F, Bernardi A, Sacchi A, Laneri S, Greco G. Clinical Studies on Topical Curcumin. Skin Pharmacol Physiol 2023; 36:235-248. [PMID: 38008088 DOI: 10.1159/000535100] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/10/2023] [Accepted: 10/27/2023] [Indexed: 11/28/2023]
Abstract
BACKGROUND Curcumin is a polyphenolic compound present in turmeric (Curcuma longa). Curcumin, turmeric powder, and extracts are widely used in traditional Indian medicine and are active ingredients of dietary supplements and cosmeceutical products. The pharmacological properties of curcumin/turmeric as well as the studies performed in vitro, in animal models, and in volunteers have been the objects of a vast literature. Most of the clinical studies report on the effects of curcumin/turmeric administered orally, while only a few describe its topical applications. SUMMARY This review focuses on clinical studies in which curcumin/turmeric was applied topically to treat various skin conditions based on its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties. KEY MESSAGES The clinical studies employing curcumin/turmeric as the only active ingredient allow us to appreciate its therapeutic potential without confounding contributions coming from additional pharmacologically active substances present in the same formulation. Curcumin/turmeric was regarded as an attractive alternative to conventional drugs, such as corticosteroids and antibiotics, thanks to its characteristics of a safe and well-tolerated natural substance.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ritamaria Di Lorenzo
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli "Federico II", Naples, Italy,
| | - Federica Forgione
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli "Federico II", Naples, Italy
| | | | - Antonia Sacchi
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli "Federico II", Naples, Italy
| | - Sonia Laneri
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli "Federico II", Naples, Italy
| | - Giovanni Greco
- Dipartimento di Farmacia, Università degli Studi di Napoli "Federico II", Naples, Italy
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Matamá T, Costa C, Fernandes B, Araújo R, Cruz CF, Tortosa F, Sheeba CJ, Becker JD, Gomes A, Cavaco-Paulo A. Changing human hair fibre colour and shape from the follicle. J Adv Res 2023:S2090-1232(23)00350-8. [PMID: 37967812 DOI: 10.1016/j.jare.2023.11.013] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/01/2022] [Revised: 09/21/2023] [Accepted: 11/12/2023] [Indexed: 11/17/2023] Open
Abstract
INTRODUCTION Natural hair curvature and colour are genetically determined human traits, that we intentionally change by applying thermal and chemical treatments to the fibre. Presently, those cosmetic methodologies act externally and their recurrent use is quite detrimental to hair fibre quality and even to our health. OBJECTIVES This work represents a disruptive concept to modify natural hair colour and curvature. We aim to model the fibre phenotype as it is actively produced in the follicle through the topical delivery of specific bioactive molecules to the scalp. METHODS Transcriptome differences between curly and straight hairs were identified by microarray. In scalp samples, the most variable transcripts were mapped by in situ hybridization. Then, by using appropriate cellular models, we screened a chemical library of 1200 generic drugs, searching for molecules that could lead to changes in either fibre colour or curvature. A pilot-scale, single-centre, investigator-initiated, prospective, blind, bilateral (split-scalp) placebo-controlled clinical study with the intervention of cosmetics was conducted to obtain a proof of concept (RNEC n.92938). RESULTS We found 85 genes transcribed significantly different between curly and straight hair, not previously associated with this human trait. Next, we mapped some of the most variable genes to the inner root sheath of follicles, reinforcing the role of this cell layer in fibre shape moulding. From the drug library screening, we selected 3 and 4 hits as modulators of melanin synthesis and gene transcription, respectively, to be further tested in 33 volunteers. The intentional specific hair change occurred: 8 of 14 volunteers exhibited colour changes, and 16 of 19 volunteers presented curvature modifications, by the end of the study. CONCLUSION The promising results obtained are the first step towards future cosmetics, complementary or alternative to current methodologies, taking hair styling to a new level: changing hair from the inside out.
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Affiliation(s)
- Teresa Matamá
- CEB - Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal; LABBELS - Associate Laboratory, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal.
| | - Cristiana Costa
- CEB - Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal
| | - Bruno Fernandes
- CEB - Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal
| | - Rita Araújo
- CBMA - Centre of Molecular and Environmental Biology, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal; CIBIO - Centro de Investigação em Biodiversidade e Recursos Genéticos, InBIO - Laboratório Associado, Campus de Vairão, Universidade do Porto, 4485-661 Vairão, Portugal
| | - Célia F Cruz
- CEB - Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal
| | - Francisco Tortosa
- Serviço de Anatomia Patológica, CHLN - Hospital de Santa Maria / Faculdade de Medicina, Universidade de Lisboa, Lisboa, Portugal; Unidade de Anatomia Patológica, Hospital CUF Descobertas, Rua Mário Botas (Parque das Nações), 1998-018, Lisboa, Portugal
| | - Caroline J Sheeba
- ICVS - Life and Health Sciences Research Institute, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal; NIHR Central Commissioning Facility (CCF), Grange House, 15 Church Street, Twickenham, TW1 3NL, UK
| | - Jörg D Becker
- Instituto Gulbenkian de Ciência, Rua da Quinta Grande 6, Oeiras, 2780-156, Portugal; Instituto de Tecnologia Química e Biológica, Universidade Nova de Lisboa, Av. da República, Oeiras, 2780-157, Portugal
| | - Andreia Gomes
- CBMA - Centre of Molecular and Environmental Biology, University of Minho, Campus of Gualtar, 4710-057, Braga, Portugal
| | - Artur Cavaco-Paulo
- CEB - Centre of Biological Engineering, University of Minho, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal; LABBELS - Associate Laboratory, 4710-057 Braga, Portugal; Solfarcos - Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Solutions Ltd, Avenida Imaculada Conceição n. 589, 4700-034 Braga, Portugal.
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Dreno B, Khosrotehrani K, De Barros Silva G, Wolf JR, Kerob D, Trombetta M, Atenguena E, Dielenseger P, Pan M, Scotte F, Krakowski I, Lacouture M. The role of dermocosmetics in the management of cancer-related skin toxicities: international expert consensus. Support Care Cancer 2023; 31:672. [PMID: 37925388 PMCID: PMC10625513 DOI: 10.1007/s00520-023-08116-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/16/2023] [Accepted: 10/11/2023] [Indexed: 11/06/2023]
Abstract
Skin toxicities are very common in patients undergoing cancer treatment and have been found to occur with all types of cancer therapeutic interventions (cytotoxic chemotherapy, targeted therapies, immunotherapy, and radiotherapy). Further, skin toxicities can lead to interruption or even discontinuation of anticancer treatment in some patients, translating to suboptimal outcomes. Dermocosmetics (or cosmeceuticals)-defined as skincare solutions incorporating dermatologically active ingredients (beyond vehicle effects) that directly improve symptoms of various skin conditions-are increasingly being used in cancer care to prevent and manage skin toxicities. The active ingredients in these products have a measurable biological action in skin; they typically improve skin integrity (barrier function/hydration and other factors) while relieving skin symptoms. The Association Francophone des Soins Oncologiques de Support (AFSOS) and Multinational Association of Supportive Care in Cancer (MASCC) partnered to select a multidisciplinary group of healthcare professionals involved in the management of patients with cancer and skin toxicities. The group reviewed existing literature and created a summary of recommendations for managing these toxicities through online meetings and communication. In this publication, the group (1) reviews new skin toxicities seen with oncology drugs and (2) evaluates the role of dermocosmetics in improving patient outcomes and minimizing cancer treatment interruptions. We provide general recommendations for initiation and selection of skin care in all oncology patients as well as recommendations for what factors should be considered when using dermocosmetics in specific types of skin toxicities.
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Affiliation(s)
- Brigitte Dreno
- Nantes Université, INSERM, CNRS, Immunology and New Concepts in Immunotherapy, INCIT, UMR 1302/EMR6001. F-44000, Nantes, France
| | - Kiarash Khosrotehrani
- Experimental Dermatology Group, University of Queensland Diamantina Institute, Brisbane, Australia
| | | | - Julie Ryan Wolf
- Departments of Dermatology and Radiation Oncology, School of Medicine and Dentistry, University of Rochester Medical Center, Rochester, NY, USA
| | | | - Mark Trombetta
- Department of the Radiologic Sciences, Allegheny Health Network, Drexel University College of Medicine, Pittsburgh, PA, USA
| | - Etienne Atenguena
- Department of Internal Medicine, University of Yaoundé I, Yaoundé Hospital General, Yaoundé, Cameroon
| | - Pascale Dielenseger
- Research and Education for Paramedic Professionals Nursing Coordinator, Gustave Roussy, Villejuif, France
- École Des Sciences du Cancer, Université Paris Sud (XI), Paris, France
- Association Française Des Infirmières de Cancerologie (AFIC), Paris, France
| | - Meng Pan
- Department of Dermatology, Rui Jin Hospital, Shanghai Jiao Tong University School of Medicine, Shanghai, China
| | - Florian Scotte
- Interdisciplinary Patient Pathway Division, Gustave Roussy, Villejuif, France
- Multinational Association of Supportive Care in Cancer (MASCC), Aurora, Canada
| | - Ivan Krakowski
- Medical Oncologist, Bordeaux, France
- Association Francophone Des Soins Oncologiques de Support (AFSOS), Bègles, France
| | - Mario Lacouture
- Dermatology Service, Department of Medicine, Memorial Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center, New York, NY, USA
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Mago Y, Sharma Y, Thakran Y, Mishra A, Tewari S, Kataria N. Next-Generation Organic Beauty Products Obtained from Algal Secondary Metabolites: A Sustainable Development in Cosmeceutical Industries. Mol Biotechnol 2023:10.1007/s12033-023-00841-9. [PMID: 37603213 DOI: 10.1007/s12033-023-00841-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/23/2023] [Accepted: 07/24/2023] [Indexed: 08/22/2023]
Abstract
Algae lay over most of the earth's habitats, and it is said that there are more algal cells in water than there are stars in the sky. They are among the wealthiest marine resources that are to be deemed harmless, with hardly any deleterious consequences. Recently, they have received a lot of consideration to be used in cosmeceuticals. Cosmetics encompass synthetic concoctions that are extremely toxic to the environment. Due to their higher molecular size, synthetic cosmetic items induce undesirable side effects and inadequate absorption rates. Consequently, utilizing algae or their secondary metabolites in cosmetics has won multiple votes. Various secondary metabolites synthesized from algae are known to provide skin advantages, such as ultraviolet protection and reduction of skin flaccidity, rough texture, and wrinkles. The tangent drawn here using algae reduces the inorganic/organic chemicals used in the industry that are known to accumulate and affect other organisms and thus opens a pandora's box of ways to a less-polluted environment. The alga is indeed very intriguing. According to the reported studies, algal cells provide biosorption, bio-assimilation, biotransformation, and biodegradation, making them suitable for the eradication of chronic and harmful contaminants from the environment. Another rapid innovation is the product's sustainability. While presenting and marketing new algal products, cosmetics producers have greatly highlighted that they are eco-friendly. This review thus accentuates the significance of using algae and their secondary metabolites in cosmetics to produce extensive variety of products that include sunscreens, moisturizers, anti-aging creams, colorants, and hair care items and extensive insight on the possible remedial capacities of algae species against environmentally dangerous substances in the context of cosmetic chemicals.
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Affiliation(s)
- Yashika Mago
- Department of Life Sciences, J.C. Bose University of Science and Technology, YMCA, NH-2, Sector-6, Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana, 121006, India
| | - Yashita Sharma
- Department of Life Sciences, J.C. Bose University of Science and Technology, YMCA, NH-2, Sector-6, Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana, 121006, India
| | - Yashika Thakran
- Department of Life Sciences, J.C. Bose University of Science and Technology, YMCA, NH-2, Sector-6, Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana, 121006, India
| | - Anurag Mishra
- Department of Science and Technology, New Delhi, 110030, India
| | - Sakshi Tewari
- Department of Life Sciences, J.C. Bose University of Science and Technology, YMCA, NH-2, Sector-6, Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana, 121006, India.
| | - Navish Kataria
- Department of Environmental Sciences, J.C. Bose University of Science and Technology, YMCA, NH-2, Sector-6, Mathura Road, Faridabad, Haryana, 121006, India.
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Hasköylü ME, Gökalsin B, Tornaci S, Sesal C, Öner ET. Exploring the potential of Halomonas levan and its derivatives as active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations. Int J Biol Macromol 2023; 240:124418. [PMID: 37080400 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2023.124418] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/18/2022] [Revised: 04/01/2023] [Accepted: 04/07/2023] [Indexed: 04/22/2023]
Abstract
Demand on natural products that contain biological ingredients mimicking growth factors and cytokines made natural polysaccharides popular in pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. Levan is the β-(2-6) linked, nontoxic, biocompatible, water-soluble, film former fructan polymer that has diverse applications in pharmacy and cosmeceutical industries with its moisturizing, whitening, anti-irritant, anti-aging and slimming activities. Driven by the limited reports on few structurally similar levan polymers, this study presents the first systematic investigation on the effects of structurally different extremophilic Halomonas levan polysaccharides on human skin epidermis cells. In-vitro experiments with microbially produced linear Halomonas levan (HL), its hydrolyzed, (hHL) and sulfonated (ShHL) derivatives as well as enzymatically produced branched levan (EL) revealed increased keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation (113-118 %), improved skin barrier function through induced expressions of involucrin (2.0 and 6.43 fold changes for HL and EL) and filaggrin (1.74 and 3.89 fold changes for hHL and ShHL) genes and increased type I collagen (2.63 for ShHL) and hyaluronan synthase 3 (1.41 for HL) gene expressions together with fast wound healing ability within 24 h (100 %, HL) on 2D wound models clearly showed that HL and its derivatives have high potential to be used as natural active ingredients in cosmeceutical and skin regenerating formulations.
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Affiliation(s)
- Merve Erginer Hasköylü
- Istanbul University-Cerrahpaşa, Institute of Nanotechnology and Biotechnology, Istanbul, Turkey.
| | - Barış Gökalsin
- Marmara University, Department of Biology, Istanbul, Turkey
| | - Selay Tornaci
- IBSB, Marmara University, Department of Bioengineering, Istanbul, Turkey
| | - Cenk Sesal
- Marmara University, Department of Biology, Istanbul, Turkey
| | - Ebru Toksoy Öner
- IBSB, Marmara University, Department of Bioengineering, Istanbul, Turkey
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11
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Singh RS, Kaur N, Singh D, Purewal SS, Kennedy JF. Pullulan in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical formulations: A review. Int J Biol Macromol 2023; 231:123353. [PMID: 36681225 DOI: 10.1016/j.ijbiomac.2023.123353] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 12.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 11/21/2022] [Revised: 01/05/2023] [Accepted: 01/16/2023] [Indexed: 01/19/2023]
Abstract
Pullulan, an α-glucan polysaccharide, is colorless, odorless, non-toxic, non-carcinogenic, highly biocompatible, edible and biodegradable in nature. The long chains of glucopyranose rings in pullulan structure are linked together by α-(1 → 4) and α-(1 → 6) glycosidic linkages. The occurrence of both glycosidic linkages in the pullulan structure contributes to its distinctive properties. The unique structure of pullulan makes it a potent candidate for both pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications. In pharmaceuticals, it can be used as a drug carrier and in various dosage formulations. It has been widely used in drug targeting, implants, ocular dosage forms, topical formulations, oral dosage forms, and oral liquid formulations, etc. Pullulan can be used as a potential carrier of active ingredients and their site-specific delivery to skin layers for cosmeceutical applications. It has been extensively used in cosmeceutical formulations like creams, shampoo, lotions, sunscreen, facial packs, etc. The current review highlights applications of pullulan in pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical applications.
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12
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Naughton GK, Jiang LI, Makino ET, Chung R, Nguyen A, Cheng T, Kadoya K, Mehta RC. Targeting Multiple Hallmarks of Skin Aging: Preclinical and Clinical Efficacy of a Novel Growth Factor-Based Skin Care Serum. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2022; 13:169-186. [PMID: 36374431 PMCID: PMC9823186 DOI: 10.1007/s13555-022-00839-2] [Citation(s) in RCA: 0] [Impact Index Per Article: 0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/30/2021] [Accepted: 10/17/2022] [Indexed: 11/16/2022] Open
Abstract
INTRODUCTION The aging process involves numerous biological mechanisms that have been characterized and proposed as the "hallmarks of aging." Targeting the processes and pathways related to these hallmarks of aging that cause and promote skin aging could provide anti-aging benefits. A novel topical growth factor-based skin care serum (A+) was developed using human fibroblast conditioned media. This study aimed to assess the effects of A+ on four hallmarks of aging and its clinical efficacy in skin rejuvenation in subjects with moderate to severe overall facial photodamage. METHODS Preclinical studies included immunohistochemistry in human ex vivo skin, and gene expression analysis in human 3D skin models. A 24-week, vehicle placebo-controlled study, including FaceQ patient-reported outcomes and skin biopsy analysis, was performed to assess clinical efficacy and tolerability. RESULTS Treatment with A+ resulted in reduced expression of cell senescence biomarker H2A.J and upregulation of genes associated with proteasome, autophagy, stemness, and intercellular communication. Clinical assessments showed A+ provided significantly greater reductions in sagging, coarse lines/wrinkles, fine lines/wrinkles, overall photodamage, and overall hyperpigmentation compared with placebo. Subjects felt they appeared younger-looking, reporting a median decrease in self-perceived age of 6 years after 12 weeks of use. Decreased levels of H2A.J and increased expression of key dermal extracellular matrix and epidermal barrier components, including collagen and elastin, were observed in skin biopsy samples. CONCLUSION The present study shows for the first time the potential effects of a topical growth factor-based cosmeceutical on cellular processes related to four hallmarks of aging (cellular senescence, loss of proteostasis, stem cell exhaustion, and altered intercellular communication) to help delay the aging process and restore aged skin. A+ targets the biological mechanisms underlying the aging process itself and stimulates skin regeneration, resulting in rapid and significant clinical improvements.
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Affiliation(s)
| | | | - Elizabeth T Makino
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA
| | - Robin Chung
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA
| | - Audrey Nguyen
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA
| | - Tsing Cheng
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA
| | - Kuniko Kadoya
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA
| | - Rahul C Mehta
- Allergan Aesthetics, an AbbVie company, 2525 Dupont Drive, Irvine, CA, 92612, USA.
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13
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Mahajan VK, Patil A, Blicharz L, Kassir M, Konnikov N, Gold MH, Goldman MP, Galadari H, Goldust M. Medical therapies for Melasma. J Cosmet Dermatol 2022; 21:3707-3728. [PMID: 35854432 DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15242] [Citation(s) in RCA: 9] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/21/2022] [Accepted: 07/11/2022] [Indexed: 01/19/2023]
Abstract
Melasma is a common malady affecting all races with a higher incidence in Hispanics, Middle Eastern, Asians and African origin females (Fitzpatrick skin phototypes III-V). Women are affected much more often than men. Melasma remains a significant cause of cosmetic morbidity and psychosocial embarrassment affecting quality of life necessitating effective and reliable treatment. Unfortunately, treatment remains unsatisfactory due to limited efficacy, adverse effects and relapses after stopping treatment. Although chemical peels, laser and light therapies and dermabrasion may have utility, the evidence available for their efficacy is limited and they often cause post inflammatory hyperpigmentation particularly in individuals with darker skin types. Medical therapies remain mainstay in the management of melasma. The triple combination, hydroquinone 4%, tretinoin 0.05% and fluocinolone acetonide 0.01% (Triluma, Galderma, Ft. Worth Texas, often modified incorporating different corticosteroids) remains the only US FDA approved treatment for melasma and is the gold standard due its demonstrated efficacy across ethnicities. Oral tranexamic acid alone or in combination with other modalities has also shown significant efficacy. Several cosmeceuticals and botanical extracts used as skin lightening agents have been demonstrated to be useful. Physical sunscreens containing zinc oxide, iron oxide, titanium dioxide, and silicones provide photoprotective and camouflage effect. We propose that a multimodality approach to the treatment of melasma is the most effective treatment approach. This review is focused on the medical therapies for melasma.
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Affiliation(s)
- Vikram K Mahajan
- Department of Dermatology, Venereology & Leprosy Dr. Rajendra Prasad Government Medical College Kangra, Tanda, India
| | - Anant Patil
- Department of Pharmacology, Dr. DY Patil Medical College, Navi Mumbai, India
| | - Leszek Blicharz
- Department of Dermatology, Medical University of Warsaw, Warsaw, Poland
| | - Martin Kassir
- Founding director, Worldwide laser institute, Dallas, USA
| | | | - Michael H Gold
- Gold Skin Care Center, Tennessee Clinical Research Center, Nashville, TN, USA
| | - Mitchel P Goldman
- Cosmetic Laser Dermatology: A West Dermatology Company, San Diego, CA, USA.,Department of Dermatology, University of California, San Diego, CA, USA
| | - Hassan Galadari
- College of Medicine and Health Sciences, United Arab Emirates University, Al Ain, United Arab Emirates
| | - Mohamad Goldust
- Department of Dermatology, University Medical Center Mainz, Mainz, Germany
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Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther 2022; 39:5351-5375. [PMID: 36220974 PMCID: PMC9618501 DOI: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 13] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 08/17/2022] [Accepted: 09/06/2022] [Indexed: 01/30/2023]
Abstract
Nowadays, numerous skincare routines are used to rejuvenate aging skin. Retinoids are one of the most popular ingredients used in antiaging treatments. Among the representatives of retinoids, tretinoin is considered the most effective agent with proven antiaging effects on the skin and can be found in formulations approved as medicines for topical treatment of acne, facial wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation. Other retinoids present in topical medicines are used for various indications, but only tazarotene is also approved as adjunctive agent for treatment of facial fine wrinkling and pigmentation. The most commonly used retinoids such as retinol, retinaldehyde, and retinyl palmitate are contained in cosmeceuticals regulated as cosmetics. Since clinical efficacy studies are not required for marketing cosmetic formulations, there are concerns about the efficacy of these retinoids. From a formulation perspective, retinoids pose a challenge to researchers as a result of their proven instability, low penetration, and potential for skin irritation. Therefore, novel delivery systems based on nanotechnology are being developed to overcome the limitations of conventional formulations and improve user compliance. In this review, the clinical evidence for retinoids in conventional and nanoformulations for topical antiaging treatments was evaluated. In addition, an overview of the comparison clinical trials between tretinoin and other retinoids is presented. In general, there is a lack of evidence from properly designed clinical trials to support the claimed efficacy of the most commonly used retinoids as antiaging agents in cosmeceuticals. Of the other retinoids contained in medicines, tazarotene and adapalene have clinically evaluated antiaging effects compared to tretinoin and may be considered as potential alternatives for antiaging treatments. The promising potential of retinoid nanoformulations requires a more comprehensive evaluation with additional studies to support the preliminary findings.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - Robert Roškar
- University of Ljubljana, Faculty of Pharmacy, Aškerčeva cesta 7, 1000, Ljubljana, Slovenia.
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15
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Carpio LE, Sanz Y, Gozalbes R, Barigye SJ. Computational strategies for the discovery of biological functions of health foods, nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals: a review. Mol Divers 2021; 25:1425-1438. [PMID: 34258685 PMCID: PMC8277569 DOI: 10.1007/s11030-021-10277-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Grants] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/27/2021] [Accepted: 07/07/2021] [Indexed: 11/29/2022]
Abstract
Scientific and consumer interest in healthy foods (also known as functional foods), nutraceuticals and cosmeceuticals has increased in the recent years, leading to an increased presence of these products in the market. However, the regulations across different countries that define the type of claims that may be made, and the degree of evidence required to support these claims, are rather inconsistent. Moreover, there is also controversy on the effectiveness and biological mode of action of many of these products, which should undergo an exhaustive approval process to guarantee the consumer rights. Computational approaches constitute invaluable tools to facilitate the discovery of bioactive molecules and provide biological plausibility on the mode of action of these products. Indeed, methodologies like QSAR, docking or molecular dynamics have been used in drug discovery protocols for decades and can now aid in the discovery of bioactive food components. Thanks to these approaches, it is possible to search for new functions in food constituents, which may be part of our daily diet, and help to prevent disorders like diabetes, hypercholesterolemia or obesity. In the present manuscript, computational studies applied to this field are reviewed to illustrate the potential of these approaches to guide the first screening steps and the mechanistic studies of nutraceutical, cosmeceutical and functional foods.
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Affiliation(s)
- Laureano E Carpio
- ProtoQSAR SL, CEEI (Centro Europeo de Empresas Innovadoras), Parque Tecnológico de Valencia, Valencia, Spain
| | - Yolanda Sanz
- Microbial Ecology, Nutrition and Health Research Unit, Institute of Agrochemistry and Food Technology, National Research Council (IATA-CSIC), Valencia, Spain
| | - Rafael Gozalbes
- ProtoQSAR SL, CEEI (Centro Europeo de Empresas Innovadoras), Parque Tecnológico de Valencia, Valencia, Spain
| | - Stephen J Barigye
- ProtoQSAR SL, CEEI (Centro Europeo de Empresas Innovadoras), Parque Tecnológico de Valencia, Valencia, Spain.
- MolDrug AI Systems SL, Valencia, Spain.
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16
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Kahsay BN, Ziegler J, Imming P, Gebre-Mariam T, Neubert RHH, Moeller L. Free amino acid contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species: a search for alternative natural free amino acid sources for cosmeceutical applications. Amino Acids 2021; 53:1105-1122. [PMID: 34106335 PMCID: PMC8241648 DOI: 10.1007/s00726-021-03008-5] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/09/2020] [Accepted: 05/20/2021] [Indexed: 10/26/2022]
Abstract
Free amino acids (FAAs), the major constituents of the natural moisturizing factor (NMF), are very important for maintaining the moisture balance of human skin and their deficiency results in dry skin conditions. There is a great interest in the identification and use of nature-based sources of these molecules for such cosmeceutical applications. The objective of the present study was, therefore, to investigate the FAA contents of selected Ethiopian plant and fungi species; and select the best sources so as to use them for the stated purpose. About 59 different plant species and oyster mushroom were included in the study and the concentrations of 27 FAAs were analyzed. Each sample was collected, lyophilized, extracted using aqueous solvent, derivatized with Fluorenylmethoxycarbonyl chloride (Fmoc-Cl) prior to solid-phase extraction and quantified using Liquid Chromatography Electrospray Ionization Tandem Mass Spectrometric (LC-ESI-MS/MS) system. All the 27 FAAs were detected in most of the samples. The dominant FAAs that are part of the NMF were found at sufficiently high concentration in the mushroom and some of the plants. This indicates that FAAs that could be included in the preparations for the management of dry skin condition can be obtained from a single natural resource and the use of these resources for the specified purpose have both economic and therapeutic advantage in addition to fulfilling customer needs.
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Affiliation(s)
- Birhanu Nigusse Kahsay
- Department of Pharmaceutics and Social Pharmacy, School of Pharmacy, College of Health Sciences, Addis Ababa University, P. O. Box 9086, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
| | - Jörg Ziegler
- Department of Molecular Signal Processing, Leibniz Institute of Plant Biochemistry, Weinberg 3, 06120, Halle (Saale), Germany
| | - Peter Imming
- Department of Medicinal Chemistry and Clinical Pharmacy, Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, Kurt-Mothes-Str. 3, 06120, Halle (Saale), Germany
| | - Tsige Gebre-Mariam
- Department of Pharmaceutics and Social Pharmacy, School of Pharmacy, College of Health Sciences, Addis Ababa University, P. O. Box 9086, Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
| | - Reinhard H H Neubert
- Institute of Applied Dermatopharmacy, Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, Weinbergweg 23, 06120, Halle (Saale), Germany
| | - Lucie Moeller
- Department of Medicinal Chemistry and Clinical Pharmacy, Martin Luther University Halle-Wittenberg, Kurt-Mothes-Str. 3, 06120, Halle (Saale), Germany. .,Department Centre for Environmental Biotechnology, Helmholtz Centre for Environmental Research, Permoserstr. 15, 04318, Leipzig, Germany.
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17
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Pundir S, Garg P, Dviwedi A, Ali A, Kapoor VK, Kapoor D, Kulshrestha S, Lal UR, Negi P. Ethnomedicinal uses, phytochemistry and dermatological effects of Hippophae rhamnoides L.: A review. J Ethnopharmacol 2021; 266:113434. [PMID: 33017636 DOI: 10.1016/j.jep.2020.113434] [Citation(s) in RCA: 40] [Impact Index Per Article: 13.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/17/2019] [Revised: 08/30/2020] [Accepted: 09/26/2020] [Indexed: 06/11/2023]
Abstract
ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE Hippophae rhamnoides L. (family- Elaeagnaceae, common name- Sea buckthorn) is a flowering shrub native to cold temperate regions of Eurasia. Berries, seeds, and leaves of the plant are widely used as a folk medicine for the treatment of hypertension, oedema, inflammation, tissue-regeneration, skin-grafts, burns/injury, wounds, and ulcers. AIM OF THE REVIEW This article reviews geographical distribution, botanical description, phytochemistry, ethnomedicinal uses, and dermatological activities including, cosmeceuticals of H. rhamnoides available in the market. MATERIALS AND METHODS The data has been compiled employing the various search engines like Science Direct, Pub Med, Google, Google Scholar, EBSCO, SCOPUS, and SciVal. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION H. rhamnoides is primarily found in cold-temperate regions of Eurasia and was first located in China. Berries are the most prominent feature of the plant. Phytochemical studies reveal the presence of a wide variety of compounds like flavonoids, carotenoids, polyunsaturated fatty acids, minerals, vitamins, Omega 3, 6, 9 and rarest Omega 7 and about 190 bioactive compounds. The pharmacological studies demonstrated, sea buckthorn to exhibit antibacterial, anti-sebum, antifungal, anti-psoriasis, anti-atopic dermatitis and wound healing activities. Besides, it has also been included in various cosmeceuticals for its use in skin-eventone, smoothening, rejuvenation, removal of wrinkles, scars, and pigmentation, and also in hair related problems. CONCLUSION Pharmacological evaluation confirmed the ethnomedically claimed biological actions and other beneficial effects on the skin of H. rhamnoides using scientifically accepted protocols and controls, although some of the studies require more elaborative studies. Its full application in the dermatology may be attributed to the presence of a variety of flavonoids, vitamins, and unsaturated fatty acids. Great use of plant in the traditional system for dermatological aspect, demands further comprehensive phytochemical work based on its actual use by the traditional population. Demonstration of the plant in the traditional system, pharmacology, cosmeceuticals not only demands its further therapeutic studies but also warrants focus towards its cultivation and propagation across the globe.
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Affiliation(s)
- Swati Pundir
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Prakrati Garg
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India; Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh 173229, India
| | - Ananya Dviwedi
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Aaliya Ali
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India; Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh 173229, India
| | - V K Kapoor
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Deepak Kapoor
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India
| | - Saurabh Kulshrestha
- School of Applied Sciences and Biotechnology, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India; Center for Omics and Biodiversity Research, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh 173229, India
| | - Uma Ranjan Lal
- National Institute of Pharmaceutical Education and Research, Ahmedabad, Gandhinagar, Gujarat, 382355, India
| | - Poonam Negi
- School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Shoolini University, P.O. Box 9, Solan, Himachal Pradesh, 173229, India.
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Lephart ED, Naftolin F. Menopause and the Skin: Old Favorites and New Innovations in Cosmeceuticals for Estrogen-Deficient Skin. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2021; 11:53-69. [PMID: 33242128 PMCID: PMC7859014 DOI: 10.1007/s13555-020-00468-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 33] [Impact Index Per Article: 11.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/05/2020] [Indexed: 12/14/2022] Open
Abstract
Estrogen is a pivotal signaling molecule; its production is regulated by the expression of the aromatase (CYP19A1) gene from ovarian and peripheral tissue sites, and it is transmitted via estrogen receptors to influence many important biological functions. However, the narrative for this overview focuses on the decline of 17β-estradiol levels from ovarian sites after menopause. This estrogen-deficient condition is associated with a dramatic reduction in skin health and wellness by negatively impacting dermal cellular and homeostatic mechanisms, as well as other important biological functions. The changes include loss of collagen, elastin, fibroblast function, vascularity, and increased matrix metalloproteinase(s) enzymatic activities, resulting in cellular and extracellular degradation that leads to dryness, wrinkles, atrophy, impaired wound healing/barrier function, decreased antioxidant capacity [i.e., defense against reactive oxygen species (ROS) and oxidative stress], decreased attractiveness and psychological health, and increased perception of aging. While topical estrogen may reverse these changes, the effects of today's low-dose systemic hormone treatments are not well established, raising the need for more concentrated local administration of hormones or newer cosmeceutical agents such as selective estrogen receptor modulators (SERMs), including phytoestrogens that have become major active ingredients for skin care products, especially when addressing estrogen-deficient skin. Two example compounds are presented, an analog of resveratrol (i.e., 4'-acetoxy resveratrol) and the isoflavonoid equol, both of which are involved in a variety of biochemical/molecular actions and mechanisms, as demonstrated via in vitro and clinical studies that enhance human dermal health, especially in estrogen-deficient skin.
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Affiliation(s)
- Edwin D Lephart
- Department of Physiology, Developmental Biology and The Neuroscience Center, College of Life Sciences, Brigham Young University, Provo, UT, USA.
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Errante F, Menicatti M, Pallecchi M, Giovannelli L, Papini AM, Rovero P, Bartolucci G. Susceptibility of cosmeceutical peptides to proteases activity: Development of dermal stability test by LC-MS/MS analysis. J Pharm Biomed Anal 2020; 194:113775. [PMID: 33281001 DOI: 10.1016/j.jpba.2020.113775] [Citation(s) in RCA: 2] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 10/19/2020] [Revised: 11/11/2020] [Accepted: 11/12/2020] [Indexed: 10/23/2022]
Abstract
Recently, several peptides are used as active ingredients in topical cosmetic formulations, few information are available on their dermal stability against proteases. In this study, it was developed a simple and reliable assay to evaluate the stability of cosmeceutical peptides in skin homogenates. The quantification of studied peptides was performed by liquid chromatography coupled with a triple quadrupole mass spectrometer operating in tandem mass spectrometry mode (LC-MS/MS) and the conditions were tuned through energy resolved MS/MS (ERMS) experiments. The sample preparation procedure was carried out on rat skin homogenates by employing pal-KTTKS (reference peptide and the parameters that may affect the assay results were evaluated, including substrate concentration, dilution of skin homogenate, protein concentration and batch-to-batch variation of the homogenate. The optimized conditions were applied to check the degradation profile of pal-KTTKS in human skin samples and the obtained results were compared. Finally, the degradation profiles of SA1-III and pamSA1-III, recently described as cosmeceutical peptides, in human skin homogenate were evaluated. The results showed that proposed peptides are stable toward proteases for up to 8 h of incubation. Thanks to this characteristic, these peptides can be considered very interesting candidates as active ingredients for creams intended for a daily application.
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Affiliation(s)
- Fosca Errante
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy; Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, University of Florence, Italy; Espikem s.r.l., Prato, Italy.
| | - Marta Menicatti
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy.
| | - Marco Pallecchi
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy.
| | - Lisa Giovannelli
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy.
| | - Anna Maria Papini
- Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, University of Florence, Italy; Department of Chemistry "Ugo Schiff", University of Florence, Italy.
| | - Paolo Rovero
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy; Laboratory of Peptide and Protein Chemistry and Biology, University of Florence, Italy.
| | - Gianluca Bartolucci
- Department of Neurofarba (Department of Neurosciences, Psychology, Drug Research and Child Health), University of Florence, Italy.
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Morocho-Jácome AL, Ruscinc N, Martinez RM, de Carvalho JCM, Santos de Almeida T, Rosado C, Costa JG, Velasco MVR, Baby AR. (Bio)Technological aspects of microalgae pigments for cosmetics. Appl Microbiol Biotechnol 2020; 104:9513-9522. [PMID: 33015721 DOI: 10.1007/s00253-020-10936-x] [Citation(s) in RCA: 26] [Impact Index Per Article: 6.5] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/09/2020] [Revised: 09/22/2020] [Accepted: 09/27/2020] [Indexed: 12/20/2022]
Abstract
Photosynthetic microorganisms convert carbon dioxide and solar radiation into interesting bioactive compounds not yet entirely explored. Several species of microalgae are known to be rich in colored high-valuable components that, although remarkable, are poorly explored as natural sources of pigments for cosmetics. Pigments associated to photosynthetic activity include chlorophyll, β-carotene, astaxanthin, xanthophylls, and phycobiliproteins, many of which have shown high potential as cosmetic actives due to their antioxidant, immune-enhancing, and anti-inflammatory properties. In the last decade, concern with a young and beautiful appearance has emerged, encouraging many consumers to use anti-aging cosmetics daily. As a result, the cosmetic market has been growing and evolving rapidly to meet consumer expectations. However, due to regular use and the sensitive nature of facial skin, local adverse reactions may often occur, such as irritation, sensitization, or photoreactions, and safety evaluation is mandatory prior to marketing. It is, therefore, understandable that new actives from natural sources, such as microalgae, are perceived as attractive alternatives for consumers who seek ingredients without allergenic potential. Thus, the cosmetic industry has recently started to explore the inclusion of compounds extracted from microalgae and cyanobacteria in innovative formulations. Herein, we revised nontraditional microalgae species for pigment production with cosmetic applications, indicating those that could also be considered potential ingredients for innovative cosmetics. KEY POINTS: • Extraction methods for pigments from photosynthetic microorganisms were compiled. • Innovative cosmeceuticals could be developed with natural pigments. • Safety features of such natural pigments were also described.
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Affiliation(s)
- Ana Lucía Morocho-Jácome
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl.15, São Paulo, 05508-900, Brazil.
| | - Nadia Ruscinc
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl.15, São Paulo, 05508-900, Brazil
| | - Renata Miliani Martinez
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl.15, São Paulo, 05508-900, Brazil
| | - João Carlos Monteiro de Carvalho
- Biochemical and Pharmaceutical Technology Department, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil
| | - Tânia Santos de Almeida
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Catarina Rosado
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - João Guilherme Costa
- CBIOS - Universidade Lusófona's Research Center for Biosciences and Health Technologies, Lisbon, Portugal
| | - Maria Valéria Robles Velasco
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl.15, São Paulo, 05508-900, Brazil
| | - André Rolim Baby
- Department of Pharmacy, Faculty of Pharmaceutical Sciences, University of São Paulo, 580 Prof. Lineu Prestes Av., Bl.15, São Paulo, 05508-900, Brazil.
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21
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Aguilar-Toalá JE, Liceaga AM. Identification of chia seed (Salvia hispanica L.) peptides with enzyme inhibition activity towards skin-aging enzymes. Amino Acids 2020; 52:1149-1159. [PMID: 32734432 DOI: 10.1007/s00726-020-02879-4] [Citation(s) in RCA: 16] [Impact Index Per Article: 4.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/24/2020] [Accepted: 07/26/2020] [Indexed: 12/23/2022]
Abstract
Chia (Salvia hispanica) seed peptides have drawn attention because of their antioxidant, antihypertensive and anti-inflammatory activities, making them ideal candidates for development of cosmeceutical skin products. However, there are no preceding reports that address their aging-related enzyme inhibitory activities. The aim of this study was to investigate the in vitro and in silico inhibitory activity of chia seed peptides towards the main aging-related enzymes. Enzyme-inhibition activity of < 3 kDa chia seed peptides towards collagenase, hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, and elastase was evaluated. Further fractions were obtained by size exclusion chromatography (SEC) and re-tested for enzyme inhibitory activity. Peptide sequences were identified from the most effective fraction and used for in silico analysis. The < 3 kDa peptides exhibited inhibitory activities towards elastase (65.32%, IC50 = 0.43 mg/mL), tyrosinase (58.74%, IC50 = 0.66 mg/mL), hyaluronidase (26.96%, IC50 = 1.28 mg/mL), and collagenase (28.90%, IC50 = 1.41 mg/mL). They showed mixed-type inhibition patterns towards elastase and hyaluronidase, while a non-competitive inhibition pattern was observed towards collagenase and tyrosinase. Fraction II obtained by SEC, showed higher enzyme inhibitory activity. Seven peptides were identified in this fraction (APHWYTN, DQNPRSF, GDAHWAY, GDAHWTY, GDAHWVY, GFEWITF, and KKLKRVYV), which according to in silico analysis, possess 19-29 enzyme-peptide pair interactions towards elastase and three peptide sequences shared homology sequence (GDAHW). These results demonstrate that peptides from chia seeds may contribute in the improvement of skin health by offering protection against aging-related enzymes by preventing degradation of the protein matrix on the skin; however, further in vivo studies are needed to evaluate its actual capability.
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Affiliation(s)
- J E Aguilar-Toalá
- Protein Chemistry and Bioactive Peptides Laboratory, Department of Food Science, Purdue University, 745 Agriculture Mall Dr., West Lafayette, IN, 47907, USA
| | - A M Liceaga
- Protein Chemistry and Bioactive Peptides Laboratory, Department of Food Science, Purdue University, 745 Agriculture Mall Dr., West Lafayette, IN, 47907, USA.
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22
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Pecorelli A, McDaniel DH, Wortzman M, Nelson DB. Protective effects of a comprehensive topical antioxidant against ozone-induced damage in a reconstructed human skin model. Arch Dermatol Res 2020; 313:139-146. [PMID: 32385690 PMCID: PMC7935815 DOI: 10.1007/s00403-020-02083-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 12/17/2019] [Revised: 04/01/2020] [Accepted: 04/27/2020] [Indexed: 12/03/2022]
Abstract
Tropospheric ozone (O3) is a source of oxidative stress. This study examined the ability of a topical antioxidant (WEL-DS) to inhibit O3-mediated damage in a human epidermal skin model. Four groups of tissues (N = 24) were compared: Group 1 (control) were untreated and unexposed; Group 2 were untreated and exposed to O3 (0.4 ppm, 4 h); Group 3 were pretreated with WEL-DS and unexposed; Group 4 were pretreated with WEL-DS and exposed to O3 (0.4 ppm, 4 h). Pretreated tissues were topically treated with 20 uL of WEL-DS and incubated for up to 20 h at 37 °C [humidified, 5% carbon dioxide (CO2)]. After 24 h, tissues were re-treated with WEL-DS and exposed to O3. Tissues were evaluated for Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS), hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), 4-hydroxynonenal (4-HNE) protein adducts, NF-κB p65 response and histology. In O3-exposed groups, WEL-DS significantly inhibited ROS formation vs. untreated tissues (p < 0.05). Pretreatment with WEL-DS inhibited H2O2 production vs. untreated tissues (p < 0.05), and decreased NF-κB p65 transcription factor signal. Oxidative stress induction in O3-exposed tissues was confirmed by increased levels of 4-HNE protein adducts (marker of lipid peroxidation); WEL-DS application reduced this effect. WEL-DS inhibited damage in tissues exposed to O3 with no significant changes in epidermal structure. A comprehensive topical antioxidant significantly diminished O3-induced oxidative damage in a human epidermal skin model.
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Affiliation(s)
| | - David H McDaniel
- McDaniel Institute of Anti-Aging Research, Virginia Beach, VA, USA
| | - Mitchell Wortzman
- skinbetter science, LLC, 3200 E Camelback Rd, Suite 395, Phoenix, AZ, USA
| | - Diane B Nelson
- skinbetter science, LLC, 3200 E Camelback Rd, Suite 395, Phoenix, AZ, USA.
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23
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Aguilar-Toalá JE, Hernández-Mendoza A, González-Córdova AF, Vallejo-Cordoba B, Liceaga AM. Potential role of natural bioactive peptides for development of cosmeceutical skin products. Peptides 2019; 122:170170. [PMID: 31574281 DOI: 10.1016/j.peptides.2019.170170] [Citation(s) in RCA: 40] [Impact Index Per Article: 8.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [MESH Headings] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Submit a Manuscript] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/11/2019] [Revised: 09/23/2019] [Accepted: 09/25/2019] [Indexed: 12/11/2022]
Abstract
In recent years, consumers' demand for cosmeceutical products with protective and therapeutic functions derived from natural sources have caused this industry to search for alternative active ingredients. Bioactive peptides have a wide spectrum of bioactivities, which make them ideal candidates for development of these cosmeceutical products. In vitro studies have demonstrated that bioactive peptides (obtained as extracts, hydrolysates, and/or individual peptides) exhibit biological properties including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory activities, in addition to their properties of inhibiting aging-related enzymes such as elastase, collagenase, tyrosinase and hyaluronidase. Some studies report multifunctional bioactive peptides that can simultaneously affect, beneficially, multiple physiological pathways in the skin. Moreover, in vivo studies have revealed that topical application or consumption of bioactive peptides possess remarkable skin protection. These properties suggest that bioactive peptides may contribute in the improvement of skin health by providing specific physiological functions, even though the mechanisms underlying the protective effect have not been completely elucidated. This review provides an overview of in vitro, in silico and in vivo properties of bioactive peptides with potential use as functional ingredients in the cosmeceutical field. It also describes the possible mechanisms involved as well as opportunities and challenges associated with their application.
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Affiliation(s)
- J E Aguilar-Toalá
- Protein Chemistry and Bioactive Peptides Laboratory, Department of Food Science, Purdue University, 745 Agriculture Mall Dr., West Lafayette, IN 47907, United States
| | - A Hernández-Mendoza
- Laboratorio de Química y Biotecnología de Productos Lácteos, Centro de Investigación en Alimentación y Desarrollo A.C. (CIAD), Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazarán Rosas, 46, Hermosillo, Sonora 83304, Mexico
| | - A F González-Córdova
- Laboratorio de Química y Biotecnología de Productos Lácteos, Centro de Investigación en Alimentación y Desarrollo A.C. (CIAD), Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazarán Rosas, 46, Hermosillo, Sonora 83304, Mexico
| | - B Vallejo-Cordoba
- Laboratorio de Química y Biotecnología de Productos Lácteos, Centro de Investigación en Alimentación y Desarrollo A.C. (CIAD), Carretera Gustavo Enrique Astiazarán Rosas, 46, Hermosillo, Sonora 83304, Mexico
| | - A M Liceaga
- Protein Chemistry and Bioactive Peptides Laboratory, Department of Food Science, Purdue University, 745 Agriculture Mall Dr., West Lafayette, IN 47907, United States.
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24
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Abstract
Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.
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25
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Piquero-Casals J, Hexsel D, Mir-Bonafé JF, Rozas-Muñoz E. Topical Non-Pharmacological Treatment for Facial Seborrheic Dermatitis. Dermatol Ther (Heidelb) 2019; 9:469-477. [PMID: 31396944 PMCID: PMC6704200 DOI: 10.1007/s13555-019-00319-0] [Citation(s) in RCA: 15] [Impact Index Per Article: 3.0] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 06/16/2019] [Indexed: 11/26/2022] Open
Abstract
Facial seborrheic dermatitis (FSD) is a chronic and relapsing inflammatory skin disorder occurring in areas of the face rich in sebaceous glands. It clinically manifests as erythematous scaly macules or plaques, often associated with pruritus. Although the pathogenesis of seborrheic dermatitis is not yet fully understood, Malassezia yeast, hormones, sebum levels, and immune response are known to play important roles. Additional factors including drugs, cold temperatures, and stress may exacerbate the condition. Currently, the available treatments do not cure the disease but relieve symptoms. Various pharmacological treatments are available, including antifungal agents, keratolytics, topical low-potency steroids, and calcineurin inhibitors. All of them provide several benefits, but they also have potential side effects. Seborrheic dermatitis tends to have a chronic, recurrent course. To avoid the long-term use of drugs, topical non-pharmacological products such as cosmetics or medical devices may improve clinical outcomes. Products with antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory ingredients such as zinc, piroctone olamine, dihydroavenanthramide, biosaccharide gum-2, and stearyl glycyrrhetinate may speed FSD recovery and avoid flare-ups. Finally, the use of specific cleansers, moisturizers, and sunscreens formulated as light creams or gel/creams should be strongly recommended to all FSD patients. We provide a brief review of the most used non-pharmacological cleansers, topical gel/creams, and specific sunscreens in the management of FSD.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jaime Piquero-Casals
- Department of Dermatology, Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau, Barcelona, Spain.
| | - Doris Hexsel
- Brazilian Center for Studies in Dermatology, Porto Alegre, RS, Brazil
| | | | - Eduardo Rozas-Muñoz
- Department of Dermatology, Hospital de la Santa Creu I Sant Pau, Barcelona, Spain
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26
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Abstract
Options for skin care are varied. New products are introduced constantly and it is important for the practitioner to have an understanding of products that impart beneficial results for aging skin. Educating patients to use products with scientifically proven benefits leads to better outcomes. Patients should be encouraged to use daily sunscreen, a topical retinoid every night, and a topical antioxidant daily. Supplementing the routine skin care regimen with alpha hydroxy acids, growth factors, heparin sulfate, and defensins can be addressed individually. Exogenous stem cells do not have sufficient evidence to warrant recommending them currently.
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27
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Park JJ, Hwang SJ, Kang YS, Jung J, Park S, Hong JE, Park Y, Lee HJ. Synthesis of arbutin-gold nanoparticle complexes and their enhanced performance for whitening. Arch Pharm Res 2019; 42:977-989. [PMID: 31144234 DOI: 10.1007/s12272-019-01164-7] [Citation(s) in RCA: 12] [Impact Index Per Article: 2.4] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 01/17/2019] [Accepted: 05/21/2019] [Indexed: 12/21/2022]
Abstract
Arbutin, a natural polyphenol, possesses numerous biological activities including whitening, anti-oxidant, anti-cancer, anti-inflammatory activities, as well as strong reducing power, making it an ideal bioactive ingredient for preparing gold nanoparticles (GNPs). Previously, we developed a novel green, mild synthetic method for GNPs using glycosides such as arbutin as reducing agents and stabilizers. Herein, we optimized the synthetic method for glycoside-GNPs using arbutin, methyl β-D-glucoside, and phenyl β-D-glucoside and validated their whitening efficacy in vitro and in vivo. The resulting glycoside-GNPs were predominantly mono-dispersed and spherical (10.30-17.13 nm diameter). Compared with arbutin itself, arbutin-GNP complexes (GNP-A1 and GNP-P2) displayed enhanced whitening capabilities. Furthermore, GNP-P2 exhibited enhanced anti-inflammatory activity and lacked the toxicity associated with arbutin. Bioactive glycoside-GNP complexes may open new directions for cosmeceuticals, and GNP-P2 may serve as a useful whitening ingredient in future cosmeceutical applications.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jin Ju Park
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Su Jung Hwang
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Yu Sun Kang
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Jisung Jung
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Suryeon Park
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Jee Eun Hong
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea
| | - Yohan Park
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea.
| | - Hyo-Jong Lee
- College of Pharmacy and Inje Institute of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research, Inje University, 197 Inje-ro, Gimhae, Gyungnam, 50834, South Korea.
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28
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Abstract
Cosmeceuticals are cosmetics that promise to deliver physiologically relevant benefits without the incorporation of prescription drugs. To entice consumers to purchase these premium priced products, a story must be told of how the cosmeceutical delivers on these appearance improvement promises. The backbone of any cosmeceutical skin care regimen is facial cleansing and moisturizing. This article reviews the novel ingredients and technologies used to achieve these benefits examining what is real and what is not.
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Affiliation(s)
- Zoe Diana Draelos
- Dermatology Consulting Services, PLLC, 2444 North Main Street, High Point, NC 27262, USA.
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29
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Georgiev V, Slavov A, Vasileva I, Pavlov A. Plant cell culture as emerging technology for production of active cosmetic ingredients. Eng Life Sci 2018; 18:779-798. [PMID: 32624872 DOI: 10.1002/elsc.201800066] [Citation(s) in RCA: 47] [Impact Index Per Article: 7.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/04/2018] [Accepted: 06/20/2018] [Indexed: 12/11/2022] Open
Abstract
Plants have always been the main source for active cosmetic ingredients, having proven health beneficial effects on human, such as anti-aging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, UV-protective, anti-cancer, anti-wrinkle, skin soothing, whitening, moisturizing, etc. Extracts from herbal, aromatic and/or medicinal plants have been widely used as effective active ingredients in cosmeceuticals or nutricosmetics, especially in products for topical application and skin-care formulations. However, over the past decade, there has been an increasing interest to plant cell culture - derived active cosmetic ingredients. These are "new generation" of high quality natural products, produced by the modern plan biotechnology methods, which usually showed stronger activities than the plant extracts obtained by the classical methods. In this review, the advantages and the current progress in plant cell culture technology for the production of active cosmetic ingredients have been summarized, and discussed in details within a presented case study for calendula stem cell product development.
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Affiliation(s)
- Vasil Georgiev
- Laboratory of Applied Biotechnology - Plovdiv The Stephan Angeloff Institute of Microbiology Bulgarian Academy of Sciences Plovdiv Bulgaria.,Department of Organic Chemistry and Inorganic Chemistry University of Food Technologies Plovdiv Bulgaria
| | - Anton Slavov
- Department of Organic Chemistry and Inorganic Chemistry University of Food Technologies Plovdiv Bulgaria
| | - Ivelina Vasileva
- Department of Organic Chemistry and Inorganic Chemistry University of Food Technologies Plovdiv Bulgaria
| | - Atanas Pavlov
- Laboratory of Applied Biotechnology - Plovdiv The Stephan Angeloff Institute of Microbiology Bulgarian Academy of Sciences Plovdiv Bulgaria.,Department of Analytical Chemistry and Physicochemistry University of Food Technologies Plovdiv Bulgaria
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30
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Hanana M, Mezghenni H, Ben Ayed R, Ben Dhiab A, Jarradi S, Jamoussi B, Hamrouni L. Nutraceutical potentialities of Tunisian Argan oil based on its physicochemical properties and fatty acid content as assessed through Bayesian network analyses. Lipids Health Dis 2018; 17:138. [PMID: 29903007 PMCID: PMC6003034 DOI: 10.1186/s12944-018-0782-9] [Citation(s) in RCA: 4] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 07/10/2017] [Accepted: 05/16/2018] [Indexed: 11/10/2022] Open
Abstract
BACKGROUND Argan oil is traditionally produced by cold pressing in South-western Morocco where rural population uses it as edible oil as well as for its therapeutic properties which give them in counterpart valuable income. Given the economical interest of this oil, several attempts of fraudulency have been registered in the world global market leading to loss of authenticity. Our purpose is to launch a program of Tunisian Argan oil valorization since trees from this species have been introduced sixty years ago in Tunisia. The first step was thus to characterize the physicochemical properties and determine the chemical composition of Tunisian Argan oil in order to assess its quality. METHODS Physicochemical parameters of oil quality were determined according to the international standard protocols. Fatty acid content analysis of Argan oils was performed by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrophotometry. A comparative study was realized among Tunisian, Moroccan and Algerian samples differing also by their extraction procedure. The impact of geographical localisation on the fatty acids composition was studied by statistical and modeling Bayesian analyses. RESULTS Physicochemical parameters analysis showed interestingly that Tunisian Argan oil could be classified as extra virgin oil. Argan oil is mainly composed by unsaturated fatty acids (80%), mainly oleic and linoleic acid (linoleic acid was positively influenced by the geographical localization (r = 0.899, p = 0.038) and the P/S index (r = 0.987, p = 0.002)) followed by saturated fatty acids (20%) with other beneficial compounds from the unsaponifiable fraction like polyphenols and carotenoids. Together with fatty acid content, these minor components are likely to be responsible for its nutraceutical properties and beneficial effects. CONCLUSION Tunisian Argan oil displayed valuable qualitative parameters proving its competitiveness in comparison with Moroccan and Algerian oils, and could be therefore considered as extra virgin edible oil for nutraceutical purposes as well as for cosmetic use.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mohsen Hanana
- Extremophile Plants Laboratory, Centre of Biotechnology of Borj-Cedria, BP 901, 2050, Hammam-Lif, Tunisia
| | - Hajer Mezghenni
- Laboratory of Forestry Resources Management and Valorization, National Research Institute of Rural Engineering, Water and Forests, P.B. 10, 2080, Ariana, Tunisia
| | - Rayda Ben Ayed
- Laboratory of Molecular and Cellular Screening Processes, Genomics and Bioinformatics Group, Centre of Biotechnology of Sfax, PB '1177', 3018, Sfax, Tunisia.
| | | | - Slim Jarradi
- General Direction of Forests, Ministry of Agriculture, Hydraulic Resources and Fishing, 30 Avenue Alain Savary, 1002, Tunis, Tunisia
| | - Bassem Jamoussi
- Laboratory of Analytical and Organic Chemistry, High Institute of Continue Education and Formation, 43 Rue de la Liberté, 2019, Le Bardo, Tunisie
| | - Lamia Hamrouni
- Laboratory of Forestry Resources Management and Valorization, National Research Institute of Rural Engineering, Water and Forests, P.B. 10, 2080, Ariana, Tunisia
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31
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Abstract
In the present scenario, consumers are searching for personal care products that supply multiple benefits with minimal efforts. The outcome has been the introduction of nanotechnology-based cosmetic products that are safe to use and results driven. Some topical cosmetics can act efficaciously when they reach their target sites present in the deeper layers of the skin. The main problem with delivering active ingredients across the skin is the barrier function of the skin. Therefore, to get the maximum benefit from cosmetic products and to overcome the problems associated with their skin penetration, scientists are investigating various strategies to overcome these barrier properties. Vesicular carriers have been claimed to improve the topical delivery of active ingredients. This review offers a brief overview of current approaches in the research and development of vesicular carriers to improve the delivery and performance of active ingredients present in the cosmetics.
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Affiliation(s)
- Alka Lohani
- a IFTM University , School of Pharmaceutical Sciences , Delhi Road, Moradabad, Moradabad , India
| | - Anurag Verma
- a IFTM University , School of Pharmaceutical Sciences , Delhi Road, Moradabad, Moradabad , India
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32
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Hazari A, K N S, K Rao K, G Maiya A. Influence of low-level laser on pain and inflammation in type 2 diabetes mellitus with diabetic dermopathy - A case report. J COSMET LASER THER 2017; 19:360-363. [PMID: 28494177 DOI: 10.1080/14764172.2017.1326611] [Citation(s) in RCA: 1] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.1] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Indexed: 01/19/2023]
Abstract
Numerous skin lesions have been commonly observed in individuals with diabetes mellitus. The common skin manifestations of diabetes mellitus are erythrasma, xanthomatosis, xanthelasma, phycomycetes and cutaneous infections like furuncolosis, candidiasis, carbuncle, dermatophytosis, etc. Diabetic dermopathy is the most common skin lesion found in patients with diabetes. It is typically seen in men aged above 50 years. In low-level laser therapy (LLLT), the entire lower limb was illuminated with the frequency of 20 Hz and wavelength of 830 nm for 9 min, and the treatment was divided into four parts. With the continued sessions of LLLT, the skin manifestations and neuropathy conditions improved drastically. On the 21st day, the skin colour was found to be normal. Also, there were significant changes in clinical findings for diabetic peripheral neuropathy. LLLT with specific exercises can promote healing of skin manifestations in individuals with type 2 diabetes mellitus. It can be used as an effective treatment modality for treating diabetic dermopathy.
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Affiliation(s)
- Animesh Hazari
- a Kasturba Medical College (KMC), Manipal University , Manipal , India
| | - Shivashankara K N
- a Kasturba Medical College (KMC), Manipal University , Manipal , India
| | - Karthik K Rao
- a Kasturba Medical College (KMC), Manipal University , Manipal , India
| | - Arun G Maiya
- a Kasturba Medical College (KMC), Manipal University , Manipal , India
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33
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Abstract
BACKGROUND Gynecomastia, as a most common benign condition, represents itself as the enlargement of the male breast and also nipple-areola complex as the severity of the condition increases. With this study, we aimed to clarify the effects of 980-nm diode laser on nipple-areola complex (NAC). OBJECTIVES Although numerous open techniques have been described to correct gynecomastia, nowadays trends have shifted to minimally invasive techniques such as laser-assisted lipolysis (LAL). METHODS A total of 25 patients with bilateral gynecomastia treated with LAL by using a 980-nm diode laser. RESULTS The resultant contour and reduced size of the complex were satisfactory. CONCLUSIONS LAL leads to significant reduction of the size of NAC.
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Affiliation(s)
- Selma Sönmez Ergün
- a Department of Plastic , Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, Bezmialem Medical School, Bezmialem Vakif University , Istanbul , Turkey
| | - Reşit Burak Kayan
- a Department of Plastic , Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, Bezmialem Medical School, Bezmialem Vakif University , Istanbul , Turkey
| | - Mustafa Ekrem Güleş
- a Department of Plastic , Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, Bezmialem Medical School, Bezmialem Vakif University , Istanbul , Turkey
| | - İsmail Melih Kuzu
- a Department of Plastic , Reconstructive and Aesthetic Surgery, Bezmialem Medical School, Bezmialem Vakif University , Istanbul , Turkey
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34
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Abstract
BACKGROUND Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is an active compound that can promote wound healing. PDRN stimulates wound healing by enhancing angiogenesis and increasing fibroblast growth rates. Laser skin resurfacing is a popular cosmetic procedure for skin rejuvenation. Despite excellent improvement of photo-damaged skin and acne scarring, it is accompanied with drawbacks, such as prolonged erythema and crusting. OBJECTIVE This study was designed to assess the effect of PDRN on wounds induced by fractional laser resurfacing. METHODS Twelve male rats aged 8 weeks were randomly assigned to the PDRN treatment group and the control group. Wounds were induced using a fractional ablative CO2 laser. The treatment group received daily injections of PDRN and the control group received injections of the vehicle. Wound healing assessed by clinical features and histopathologic findings. RESULTS The process of wound healing was faster in the treatment group than in the control group. In the histopathological examination, the granulation tissue thickness score of the treatment group was significantly higher than that of the control group. Results of immunohistochemical staining showed a marked increase of VEGF-positive cells and PECAM-1/CD31-positive microvessels in the treatment group. CONCLUSION PDRN may be a beneficial option to promote wound healing after laser treatment.
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Affiliation(s)
- Mi Yu
- a Graduate School, The Catholic University of Korea , Seoul , the Republic of Korea
| | - Jun Young Lee
- b Department of Dermatology , Seoul St. Mary's Hospital , Seoul , Republic of Korea
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Sanjeewa KKA, Kim EA, Son KT, Jeon YJ. Bioactive properties and potentials cosmeceutical applications of phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds: A review. J Photochem Photobiol B 2016; 162:100-105. [PMID: 27362368 DOI: 10.1016/j.jphotobiol.2016.06.027] [Citation(s) in RCA: 90] [Impact Index Per Article: 11.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 03/29/2016] [Revised: 06/14/2016] [Accepted: 06/14/2016] [Indexed: 01/05/2023]
Abstract
Currently, natural ingredients are becoming more attractive for the industries such as functional food, nutraceuticals, cosmeceutical and pharmaceutical industries as people starting to believe naturally occurring compounds are safer to humans than artificial compounds. Seaweeds are one of the most interesting organisms found in oceans around the earth, which are carrying great ecological importance and contribute to increase the biodiversity of ecosystems where they were originated and habitat. Within last few decades, discovery of secondary metabolites with biological activities from seaweeds has been significantly increased. Further, the unique secondary metabolites isolated from seaweeds including polysaccharides, carotenoids and polyphenols possess range of bioactive properties that make them potential ingredient for many industrial applications. Among those groups of compounds phlorotannins isolated from brown seaweeds have shown interesting bioactive properties including anti-cancer, anti-inflammation, anti-oxidant, anti-allergic, anti-wrinkling and hair growth promotion properties. Moreover, these properties associated with phlorotannins make them an ideal compounds to use as a functional ingredient in cosmeceutical products. Up to now no report has been reviewed about discuss properties of phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical application. In the present review primary attention is given to the collect scientific data published about bioactive properties of brown algal phlorotannins related to the cosmeceutical industry.
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Affiliation(s)
- Kalu Kapuge Asanka Sanjeewa
- Laboratory of Marine Bioresource Technology, Department of Marine Life Science, School of Marine Biomedical Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - Eun-A Kim
- Laboratory of Marine Bioresource Technology, Department of Marine Life Science, School of Marine Biomedical Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea
| | - Kwang-Tae Son
- National Institute of Fisheries Science, Food Safety and Processing Research Division 216, Gijang-Haeanro, Gijang-eup, Busan 46083, Republic of Korea.
| | - You-Jin Jeon
- Laboratory of Marine Bioresource Technology, Department of Marine Life Science, School of Marine Biomedical Sciences, Jeju National University, Jeju 690-756, Republic of Korea.
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Abstract
This article focuses on nonprescription home-use topical treatment technologies for the aging face and is intended to serve as a guide for the core cosmeceutical technologies currently used and to help educate and assist the selection of topical antiaging products by the professional staff and their patients. Antiaging topical treatments for patient home use should be nonirritating, compatible with the patient skin type, effective, and complementary to surgical and minimally invasive office procedures, and aesthetically elegant. New topical antiaging technologies, formulated as monotherapy or as combinations with well-known cosmeceuticals, should present adequate clinical studies to support their selection for use.
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Lu TM, Ko HH, Ng LT, Hsieh YP. Free-Radical-Scavenging, Antityrosinase, and Cellular Melanogenesis Inhibitory Activities of Synthetic Isoflavones. Chem Biodivers 2016; 12:963-79. [PMID: 26080742 DOI: 10.1002/cbdv.201400208] [Citation(s) in RCA: 14] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.8] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/31/2014] [Indexed: 11/11/2022]
Abstract
In this study, we examined the potential of synthetic isoflavones for application in cosmeceuticals. Twenty-five isoflavones were synthesized and their capacities of free-radical-scavenging and mushroom tyrosinase inhibition, as well as their impact on cell viability of B16F10 murine melanoma cells and HaCaT human keratinocytes were evaluated. Isoflavones that showed significant mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory activities were further studied on reduction of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activities in B16F10 melanocytes in vitro. Among the isoflavones tested, 6-hydroxydaidzein (2) was the strongest scavenger of both ABTS(.+) and DPPH(.) radicals with SC50 values of 11.3 ± 0.3 and 9.4 ± 0.1 μM, respectively. Texasin (20) exhibited the most potent inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (IC50 14.9 ± 4.5 μM), whereas retusin (17) showed the most efficient inhibition both of cellular melanin formation and antityrosinase activity in B16F10 melanocytes, respectively. In summary, both retusin (17) and texasin (20) exhibited potent free-radical-scavenging capacities as well as efficient inhibition of cellular melanogenesis, suggesting that they are valuable hit compounds with potential for advanced cosmeceutical development.
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Affiliation(s)
- Tzy-Ming Lu
- Department of Pharmacy, Tajen University, No. 20 Wei-Xin Rd., Yanpu, Pingtung 907, Taiwan, ROC, (phone: +886-8-7624002 ext. 2727; fax: +886-8-7625308). ,
| | - Horng-Huey Ko
- Department of Fragrance and Cosmetic Science, Kaohsiung Medical University, Kaohsiung 807, Taiwan, ROC
| | - Lean-Teik Ng
- Department of Agricultural Chemistry, National Taiwan University, Taipei 106, Taiwan, ROC
| | - Yen-Pin Hsieh
- Department of Pharmacy, Fooyin University Hospital, Pingtung 917, Taiwan, ROC
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Haftbaradaran B, Abedi D, Jalali M, Bagherinejad MR. Microbial quality survey of sunscreen products in Iranian market. Adv Biomed Res 2014; 3:180. [PMID: 25250294 PMCID: PMC4166056 DOI: 10.4103/2277-9175.139534] [Citation(s) in RCA: 3] [Impact Index Per Article: 0.3] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Journal Information] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 05/17/2013] [Accepted: 09/03/2013] [Indexed: 11/28/2022] Open
Abstract
Background: Microbial contamination of cosmetic products is very crucial because of their daily use and direct contact with the skin. These products are at high risk for microbial contamination from various sources such as environment, consumer's hands, body sweat and during the time of manufacturing. Therefore, this study aimed to investigate the microbial quality of sunscreens products, manufactured in or imported to or formulated in local pharmacies in Iran. Materials and Methods: The microbial quality were determined in three different levels; the intact product (at the time of purchase) and after three and after six months of opening it. Total Aerobic Viable Count (TAVC) and the presence of coliforms, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Staphylococcus aureus, molds, and yeasts were studied. Results: At the time of purchase, 40, 73.3 and 43.3 percentage of Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens were contaminated with at least one of the objectionable microorganisms, respectively. After three months of opening it, 36.6, 70 and 46.6 percentage of Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens were contaminated with at least one of the objectionable microorganisms, respectively. The percentages of contaminated samples were 36.6, 70 and 50 after six months of opening for Iranian made, imported and pharmacy formulated sunscreens, respectively. Conclusion: Microbial contamination of these sunscreens products is a potential health risk for consumers. It seems that it is necessary to inspect and monitor the products during the manufacturing and shelf life period. It is highly recommended to control and regulate cosmetic products by health organizations to ensure the quality and safety of this kind of products.
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Affiliation(s)
- Behnoosh Haftbaradaran
- Department of Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, School of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences and Isfahan Pharmaceutical Sciences Research Center, Isfahan University of Medical Sciences, Isfahan, Iran
| | - Daryoush Abedi
- Department of Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, School of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences and Isfahan Pharmaceutical Sciences Research Center, Isfahan University of Medical Sciences, Isfahan, Iran
| | - Mohammad Jalali
- Department of Food science, School of Nutrition and Food Sciences, Isfahan University of Medical Sciences, Isfahan, Iran
| | - Mohammad Reza Bagherinejad
- Department of Pharmaceutical Biotechnology, School of Pharmacy and Pharmaceutical Sciences and Isfahan Pharmaceutical Sciences Research Center, Isfahan University of Medical Sciences, Isfahan, Iran
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Ro J, Kim Y, Kim H, Jang SB, Lee HJ, Chakma S, Jeong JH, Lee J. Anti-oxidative activity of pectin and its stabilizing effect on retinyl palmitate. Korean J Physiol Pharmacol 2013; 17:197-201. [PMID: 23776395 PMCID: PMC3682079 DOI: 10.4196/kjpp.2013.17.3.197] [Citation(s) in RCA: 19] [Impact Index Per Article: 1.7] [Reference Citation Analysis] [What about the content of this article? (0)] [Affiliation(s)] [Abstract] [Key Words] [Track Full Text] [Download PDF] [Figures] [Subscribe] [Scholar Register] [Received: 04/01/2013] [Revised: 04/22/2013] [Accepted: 05/07/2013] [Indexed: 11/15/2022]
Abstract
The purpose of this study was to examine the anti-oxidative activity of pectin and other polysaccharides in order to develop a cosmeceutical base having anti-oxidative effects towards retinyl palmitate (RP). The anti-oxidative stabilizing effects of pectin and other polysaccharides on RP were evaluated by DPPH assay and then the stabilizing effect of pectin on RP was examined as a function of time. Among the polysaccharides we examined, pectin exhibited a considerably higher anti-oxidative activity, with an approximately 5-fold greater DPPH radical scavenging effect compared to other polysaccharides. The DPPH radical scavenging effect of pectin increased gradually with increasing concentrations of pectin. At two different RP concentrations, 0.01 and 0.1% in ethanol, addition of pectin improved the stability of RP in a concentration dependent manner. The stabilizing effect of pectin on RP was more effective for the lower concentration of RP (0.01%, v/v). Further, degradation of RP was reduced following the addition of pectin as measured over 8 hours. From the results obtained, it can be suggested that pectin may be a promising ingredient for cosmeceutical bases designed to stabilize RP or other pharmacological agents subject to degradation by oxidation.
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Affiliation(s)
- Jieun Ro
- College of Pharmacy, Chung-Ang University, Seoul 156-756, Korea
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Abstract
Cosmeceuticals are topical cosmetic-pharmaceutical hybrids that enhance the beauty through constituents that provide additional health-related benefit. Cosmeceuticals are commonly used for hyperpigmentation. These disorders are generally difficult to treat, hence the need for skin lightening agents including, cosmeceuticals. These agents selectively target hyperplastic melanocytes and inhibit key regulatory steps in melanin synthesis. With the recent safety concern regarding use of hydroquinone, the need for alternative natural, safe and efficacious skin lightening agents is becoming all the more necessary and the article attempts to look at other alternative cosmeceuticals available or maybe upcoming in the future. We carried out a PUBMED search using the following terms “cosmeceuticals, hyperpigmentation, skin lightening agents.” We cited the use of various agents used for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, mainly melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. We describe the safety and efficacy of these agents and their advantage over the conventional therapy.
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Affiliation(s)
- Rashmi Sarkar
- Department of Dermatology, Maulana Azad Medical College and Lok Nayak Hospital, New Delhi, India
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