Extraction of Natural Fragrance Ingredients: History Overview and Future Trends

Formulation analysis of functional fragrance via polar-gradient extraction method and chemometrics pattern recognition

In this study, characteristic components of 15 natural flavors was analyzed by the polar-gradient extraction (PGE) technique in combination with GC-MS and chemometrics pattern recognition. The obtained results were utilized for the traceability of 4 functional fragrance formulations. The optimal PGE system consisting of 5 different polar solvents, was developed based on similarity-intermiscibility theory. Four chemometrics pattern recognition models including PCA, HCA, PLS-DA, and OPLS-DA were constructed based on the characteristic component database constituting 15 natural flavors. These models were used to trace 4 functional fragrance formulations. The experimental results obtained were found to be satisfactory and accurate. The combination of PGE technique and chemometric pattern recognition methods provides theoretical guidance for the analysis of characteristic components of natural flavors and the traceability of functional fragrance formulations. This approach can be promoted in various fields such as food, traditional Chinese medicine, and cosmetics.

Borago Officinalis L.: A Review Oon Extraction, Phytochemical, and Pharmacological Activities

Borago officinalis L., an annual herb belonging to the Boraginaceae family, is used in the traditional medical practices of various countries and for multiple treatments, including respiratory disorders, colds, influenza, diarrhea, cramps, inflammation, palpitation, hypertension menopause, and post-menopausal symptoms. Its pharmacological properties and biological activities - among them antioxidant, antimicrobial, anticancer, anti-inflammatory, insecticidal, antigenotoxic, and anti-obesity activity - were demonstrated in vitro and in vivo and are related to its rich content of bioactive compounds (mainly phenolic acids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, alkaloids, and terpenes) extracted from various parts of B. officinalis including leaves, flowers, seeds, and roots. This review summarizes all updated information on applied extraction processes, phytochemistry, pharmacology, and toxicity of B. officinalis.

Engineering carboxylic acid reductases and unspecific peroxygenases for flavor and fragrance biosynthesis

Emerging consumer demand for safer, more sustainable flavors and fragrances has created new challenges for the industry. Enzymatic syntheses represent a promising green production route, but the broad application requires engineering advancements for expanded diversity, improved selectivity, and enhanced stability to be cost-competitive with current methods. This review discusses recent advances and future outlooks for enzyme engineering in this field. We focus on carboxylic acid reductases (CARs) and unspecific peroxygenases (UPOs) that enable selective productions of complex flavor and fragrance molecules. Both enzyme types consist of natural variants with attractive characteristics for biocatalytic applications. Applying protein engineering methods, including rational design and directed evolution in concert with computational modeling, present excellent examples for property improvements to unleash the full potential of enzymes in the biosynthesis of value-added chemicals.

If speed is of the essence: rapid analysis of ambergris by APCI compact mass spectrometry

The use of atmospheric pressure chemical ionisation (APCI) compact mass spectrometry (CMS) was investigated for the analysis of jetsam and museum-archived ambergris and of ambergris components in perfumes. The data were compared with those from existing methods. Authentic samples of some individual ambergris constituents (ambrein, coprostanol, epicoprostanol and coprostanone), were also examined. Rapid APCI CMS was achieved using either a solids probe or a probe with solutions held in capillary melting point tubes. Interpretation is made of the spectra of the principal natural product components, the relative ion responses were measured and the elemental composition of key ions in the spectra confirmed using high resolution accurate mass APCI MS. Rapid analysis of ambergris by APCI CMS may prove to be a further convenient method of identifying ambrein, of measuring the relative ratios of ambrein and steroids in ambergris and even of quantifying the latter, with minimal sample preparation.

Current status, technology, regulation and future perspectives of essential oils usage in the food and drink industry

Nowadays, essential oils (EOs) have a wide use in many applications such as in food, cosmetics, pharmaceutical and animal feed products. Consumers' preferences concerning healthier and safer foodstuffs lead to an increased demand for natural products, in replacement of synthetic substances, used as preservatives, flavourings etc. EOs, besides being safe, are promising alternatives as natural food additives, and much research has been carried out on their antioxidant and antimicrobial activity. The initial purpose of this review is to discuss conventional and 'green' extraction techniques along with their basic mechanism for the isolation of EOs from aromatic plants. This review aims to provide a broad overview of the current knowledge about the chemical constitution of EOs while considering the existence of different chemotypes, since bioactivity is attributed to the chemical composition - qualitative and quantitative - of EOs. Although the food industry primarily uses EOs as flavourings, an overview on recent applications of EOs in food systems and active packaging is provided. EOs exhibit poor solubility in water, oxidation susceptibility, negative organoleptic effect and volatility, restricting their use. Encapsulation techniques have been proven to be one of the best approaches to preserve the biological activities of EOs and minimize their effects on food sensory qualities. Herein, different encapsulation techniques and their basic mechanism for loading EOs are discussed. EOs are highly accepted by consumers, who are often under the misconception that 'natural' means safe. This is, however, an oversimplification, and the possible toxicity of EOs should be taken into consideration. Thus, in the final section of the current review, the focus is on current EU legislation, safety assessment and sensory evaluation of EOs. © 2023 The Authors. Journal of The Science of Food and Agriculture published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Chemical Industry.

Essential Oils for a Sustainable Control of Honeybee Varroosis

The Varroa destructor parasite is the main obstacle to the survival of honey bee colonies. Pest control mainly involves the use of synthetic drugs which, used with the right criteria and in rotation, are able to ensure that infestation levels are kept below the damage threshold. Although these drugs are easy to use and quick to apply, they have numerous disadvantages. Their prolonged use has led to the emergence of pharmacological resistance in treated parasite populations; furthermore, the active ingredients and/or their metabolites accumulate in the beehive products with the possibility of risk for the end consumer. Moreover, the possibility of subacute and chronic toxicity phenomena for adult honeybees and their larval forms must be considered. In this scenario, eco-friendly products derived from plant species have aroused great interest over the years. In recent decades, several studies have been carried out on the acaricidal efficacy of plant essential oils (EOs). Despite the swarming of laboratory and field studies, however, few EO products have come onto the market. Laboratory studies have often yielded different results even for the same plant species. The reason for this discrepancy lies in the various study techniques employed as well as in the variability of the chemical compositions of plants. The purpose of this review is to take stock of the research on the use of EOs to control the V. destructor parasite. It begins with an extensive discussion of the characteristics, properties, and mechanisms of action of EOs, and then examines the laboratory and field tests carried out. Finally, an attempt is made to standardize the results and open up new lines of study in future.

Ultrasound-Assisted Extraction of Isoquercetin from Ephedra alata (Decne): Optimization Using Response Surface Methodology and In Vitro Bioactivities

Isoquercetin (ISQ) is reported to be a powerful antioxidant with extremely high bioavailability and structural stability compared to aglycone quercetin. Despite this, it is not well studied due to the limited methods for its extraction. With the growing interest in the research and analysis of ISQ-rich herbs, there is a need to optimize an efficient and rapid method for their extraction. In the present study, the ultrasound-assisted extraction of ISQ from Ephedra alata Decne was optimized by a response surface methodology (RSM) using high-performance liquid chromatography as a separation method. The best possible ranges for extraction time (10–30 min), temperature (50–70 °C), ultrasonic power (60–90 W), solvent-to-solid ratio (50–70 mL/g), and ethanol concentration (50–70%) were determined using a single factor analysis. Subsequently, an optimization of the extraction conditions was performed with RSM using the Box–Behnken design. An ultrasonication time of 10 min, a temperature of 60 °C, a power of 75 W, a solvent-to-solid ratio of 60 mL/g, and an ethanol concentration of 70% were determined to be the optimal conditions for the highest recovery of isoquercetin (1033.96 ± 3.28 µg/g). Furthermore, E. alata powder morphology (using a scanning electron microscope), antioxidant activities, and the inhibition potential of key enzymes involved in skin aging (elastase and collagenase), hyperpigmentation (tyrosinase), diabetes (α-amylase), inflammation (hyaluronidase), and neurodegenerative disorders (cholinesterase) were determined and compared with those using the Soxhlet method. This study established a highly efficient method for ISQ extraction and suggested several potential applications of ISQ in the pharmaceutical and cosmetics industries.

Method Comparison of Sample Pretreatment and Discovery of Differential Compositions of Natural Flavors and Fragrances for Quality Analysis by Using Chemometric Tools

Natural flavors and fragrances or their extracts have been widely used in a large variety of areas, including food, cosmetic, and tobacco industrial processes, among others. The compositions and intrinsic attributes of flavors and fragrances were related to many factors, such as species, geographical origin, planting environment, storage condition, processing method, and so on. This not only increased the difficulty in analyzing the product quality of flavors and fragrances, but also challenged the idea of "quality-by-design (QbD)". This work proposed an integrated strategy for precise discovery of differential compounds among different classes and subsequent quality analysis of complex samples through flavors and fragrances used in tobacco industry as examples. Three pretreatment methods were first inspected to effectively characterize the sample compositions, including direct injection (DI), thermal desorption (TD), and stir bar sorptive extraction (SBSE)-TD, coupled with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis to obtain characteristic information of samples of flavors and fragrances. Then, principal component analysis (PCA) was applied to discover the relation and difference between chromatographic fingerprints and peak table data once significant components were recognized in a holistic manner. Model population analysis (MPA) was then used to quantitatively extract the characteristic chemicals representing the quality differences among different classes of samples. Some differential marker compounds were discovered for difference analysis, including benzyl alcohol, latin acid, l-menthol acid, decanoic acid ethyl ester, vanillin, trans-o-coumaric acid, benzyl benzoate, and so on. Furthermore, partial least squares-discriminant analysis (PLS-DA) and support vector machine (SVM) were respectively applied to construct multivariate models for evaluation of quality differences and variations. It was found that the accuracy attains to 100% for sample classification. With the help of optimal sample pretreatment technique and chemometric methods, the strategy for quality analysis and difference discovery proposed in this work can be widely delivered to more areas of complex plants with good interpretability and high accuracy.

Isolation, Bioactive Potential, and Application of Essential Oils and Terpenoid-Rich Extracts as Effective Antioxidant and Antimicrobial Agents in Meat and Meat Products

Using food additives (e.g., preservatives, antioxidants) is one of the main methods for preserving meat and meat product quality (edible, sensory, and technological) during processing and storage. Conversely, they show negative health implications, so meat technology scientists are focusing on finding alternatives for these compounds. Terpenoid-rich extracts, including essential oils (EOs), are remarkable since they are generally marked as GRAS (generally recognized as safe) and have a wide ranging acceptance from consumers. EOs obtained by conventional or non-conventional methods possess different preservative potentials. Hence, the first goal of this review is to summarize the technical-technology characteristics of different procedures for terpenoid-rich extract recovery and their effects on the environment in order to obtain safe, highly valuable extracts for further application in the meat industry. Isolation and purification of terpenoids, as the main constituents of EOs, are essential due to their wide range of bioactivity and potential for utilization as natural food additives. Therefore, the second goal of this review is to summarize the antioxidant and antimicrobial potential of EOs and terpenoid-rich extracts obtained from different plant materials in meat and various meat products. The results of these investigations suggest that terpenoid-rich extracts, including EOs obtained from several spices and medicinal herbs (black pepper, caraway, Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt., coriander, garlic, oregano, sage, sweet basil, thyme, and winter savory) can be successfully used as natural antioxidants and antimicrobials in order to prolong the shelf-life of meat and processed meat products. These results could be encouraged for higher exploitation of EOs and terpenoid-rich extracts in the meat industry.

Microwave-Assisted Hydrodistillation of the Insecticidal Essential Oil from Carlina acaulis: A Fractional Factorial Design Optimization Study

Recently, microwave-assisted hydrodistillation (MAH) has been reported as an innovative technique leading to increased essential oil (EO) extraction yield, coupled with reduced extraction time and energy costs. The EO of Carlina acaulis L. (Asteraceae), mainly constituted by carlina oxide (>95%) and conventionally obtained through traditional hydrodistillation (HD), has been reported as extremely effective against several arthropod vectors and pests of medical and economic importance with limited impact on non-target species, including mammals. This study aimed to the optimization of the EO extraction through MAH by using a one-step design of experiments (DoE) approach that allowed us to relate the characteristics of the produced EOs with the applied experimental conditions using mathematical models. The preliminary screening allowed us to optimize the protocol only by the extraction time, skipping complex data analysis. Moreover, the comparison of the optimized MAH conditions with traditional HD pointed out the higher efficiency of MAH in terms of EO yield (0.65 and 0.49% for MAH and HD, respectively) and extraction time (210 min for MAH). The results obtained confirmed the promising role that MAH could have in C. acaulis EO extraction, with increased yield and reduced extraction time, water consumption, and energy costs, and being employable on an industrial scale, with special reference to insecticidal and acaricidal formulations.

Essential Oils Composition and Biological Activity of Chamaecyparis obtusa, Chrysopogon nigritanus and Lavandula coronopifolia Grown Wild in Sudan

Generally, there are scant data about the constituents and eventually the biological activity of essential oils (EOs) from aromatic plants that grow naturally in Sudan. The present study aimed to determine the chemical composition, and antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities of EO extracted from the fruit of Chamaecyparis obtusa (Siebold and Zucc.) Endl. (family Cupressaceae), root of Chrysopogon nigritanus (Benth.) Veldkampis (family Poaceae) and aerial part of Lavandula coronopifolia Poir (family Lamiaceae). The fruit of C. obtusa contained only monoterpenes, mainly hydrogenated ones, with α-pinene (69.07%) as the major component. Oxygenated sesquiterpenes comprised the highest content of the C. nigritanus root EO with cedr-8-en-15-ol (28.69%) as the major constituent while aerial parts of L. coronopifolia contained both monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes and the oxygenated monoterpene lavandulol (26.56%) as dominant compounds. The EO of the root of C. nigritanus significantly displayed (p < 0.05) the highest anti-DPPH radical, Fe³⁺- and Cu²⁺-reducing and metal-chelating activities, while that of C. obtusa fruit significantly exerted (p < 0.05) the best anti-ABTS radical and total antioxidant activity. The two EOs significantly exhibited (p < 0.05) the highest anti-acetylcholinesterase and -butyrylcholinesterase activities, respectively, while EO of L. coronopifolia was the only oil to show a considerable inhibitory effect against the tyrosinase and α-glucosidase enzymes. In conclusion, EOs from these three plants could be natural agents with promising functional properties for food, cosmetics, and pharmaceutical applications.

Commiphora wildii Merxm. Essential Oil: Natural Heptane Source and Co-Product Valorization

As an alternative to fossil volatile hydrocarbon solvents used nowadays in perfumery, investigation on essential oil of Commiphora wildii Merxm. oleo gum resin as a source of heptane is reported here. Heptane, representing up to 30 wt-% of this oleo gum resin, was successfully isolated from the C. wildii essential oil, using an innovative double distillation process. Isolated heptane was then used as a solvent in order to extract some noble plants of perfumery. It was found that extracts obtained with this solvent were more promising in terms of sensory analysis than those obtained from fossil-based heptane. In addition, in order to valorize the essential oil depleted from heptane, chemical composition of this oil was found to obtain, and potential biological activity properties were studied. A total of 172 different compounds were identified by GC-MS in the remaining oil. In vitro tests-including hyaluronidase, tyrosinase, antioxidant, elastase and lipoxygenase, as well as inhibitory tests against two yeasts and 21 bacterial strains commonly found on the skin-were carried out. Overall, bioassays results suggest this heptane-depleted essential oil is a promising active ingredient for cosmetic applications.

The significant value of sustainable cosmetics fragrance in the spotlight after COVID-19

BACKGROUND

The coronavirus disease 2019 (COVID-19) pandemic has brought major changes to the world's population. This has led to increased wearing of masks to prevent infectious diseases, which can contribute to exacerbation of stress and the emergence of mental illness due to a physical health crisis.

OBJECTIVES

Therefore, this study comprehensively investigated the reasons why cosmetics customers pay attention to sustainable fragrances after COVID-19.

METHODS

This review article is a literature review, and a narrative review approach was used in this study. A total of 598 references were selected from 2004 to 2022 using representative journal search sites such as PubMed, Google Scholar, Scopus, and RISS. Among them, a total of 39 articles were successfully completed in this study using the PRISMA flowchart in the final stage.

RESULTS

In this study, by identifying the changes and needs of K-beauty and global cosmetics industry consumers who aspire for sustainable safety amid the COVID-19 pandemic, the increase in bad breath caused by the increase in mask wearing was recognized, and the need for fragrance due to mental health was recognized. Demand is expected to increase.

CONCLUSION

This study tried to change the perception of cosmetic fragrances into safe edible fragrances. Therefore, it is expected to be used as an important marketing material for the global cosmetics market.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

An enzymatic tandem reaction to produce odor-active fatty aldehydes

Abstract

Aldehydes represent a versatile and favored class of flavoring substances. A biocatalytic access to odor-active aldehydes was developed by conversion of fatty acids with two enzymes of the α-dioxygenase pathway. The recombinant enzymes α-dioxygenase (α-DOX) originating from Crocosphaera subtropica and fatty aldehyde dehydrogenase (FALDH) from Vibrio harveyi were heterologously expressed in E. coli, purified, and applied in a coupled (tandem) repetitive reaction. The concept was optimized in terms of number of reaction cycles and production yields. Up to five cycles and aldehyde yields of up to 26% were achieved. Afterward, the approach was applied to sea buckthorn pulp oil as raw material for the enzyme catalyzed production of flavoring/fragrance ingredients based on complex aldehyde mixtures. The most abundant fatty acids in sea buckthorn pulp oil, namely palmitic, palmitoleic, oleic, and linoleic acid, were used as substrates for further biotransformation experiments. Various aldehydes were identified, semi-quantified, and sensorially characterized by means of headspace–solid phase microextraction–gas chromatography–mass spectrometry–olfactometry (HS–SPME–GC–MS–O). Structural validation of unsaturated aldehydes in terms of double-bond positions was performed by multidimensional high-resolution mass spectrometry experiments of their Paternò–Büchi (PB) photoproducts. Retention indices and odor impressions of inter alia (Z,Z)-5,8-tetradecadienal (Z,Z)-6,9-pentadecadienal, (Z)-8-pentadecenal, (Z)-4-tridecenal, (Z)-6-pentadecenal, and (Z)-8-heptadecenal were determined for the first time.

Key points

• Coupled reaction of Csα-DOX and VhFALDH yields chain-shortened fatty aldehydes.

• Odors of several Z-unsaturated fatty aldehydes are described for the first time.

• Potential for industrial production of aldehyde-based odorants from natural sources.

Graphical abstract

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s00253-022-12134-3.

Synthesis of Cyclic Fragrances via Transformations of Alkenes, Alkynes and Enynes: Strategies and Recent Progress

With increasing demand for customized commodities and the greater insight and understanding of olfaction, the synthesis of fragrances with diverse structures and odor characters has become a core task. Recent progress in organic synthesis and catalysis enables the rapid construction of carbocycles and heterocycles from readily available unsaturated molecular building blocks, with increased selectivity, atom economy, sustainability and product diversity. In this review, synthetic methods for creating cyclic fragrances, including both natural and synthetic ones, will be discussed, with a focus on the key transformations of alkenes, alkynes, dienes and enynes. Several strategies will be discussed, including cycloaddition, catalytic cyclization, ring-closing metathesis, intramolecular addition, and rearrangement reactions. Representative examples and the featured olfactory investigations will be highlighted, along with some perspectives on future developments in this area.

Evolution of Chemical Research in Nice, Côte d'Azur: From Early Laboratories to the 'Institut de Chimie de Nice'

The 'Institut de Chimie de Nice' (ICN), founded in 2012, celebrates its 10th anniversary in 2022. Today, the ICN is part of the University Côte d'Azur (UCA), one out of nine excellence universities in France. ICN is also affiliated to the CNRS. We use the institute's anniversary to reflect on the origins and the successful evolution of research in chemical sciences in Nice, France. We outline research topics and their development towards modern chemistry in Nice that are characterized by innovation and territorial anchoring. At present, four research axes, namely aroma and perfume chemistry, medicinal chemistry, radiochemistry, and material chemistry structure the institute. ICN has created five start-up companies and includes a technological platform. The ICN is central part of the university and contributes to the advancement in chemical sciences as evidenced by both fundamental research and active contributions to local partnerships.

Quantitative Removal of Pyrrolizidine Alkaloids from Essential Oils by the Hydrodistillation Step in Their Manufacturing Process

Pyrrolizidine alkaloids are naturally occurring toxins produced by certain weeds that can, if accidentally co-harvested, contaminate plant-based food, feed, and herbal medicinal products. Focusing on herbal medicinal products, the presence of pyrrolizidine alkaloids is restricted by regulatory prescribed thresholds to assure patient safety. Among the multitude of different herbal active substances utilized in herbal medicinal products, the class of pharmaceutically effective essential oils is considered to exhibit a negligible contribution to pyrrolizidine alkaloid contamination. Within the present investigation, this hypothesis should be scientifically scrutinized. For this purpose, an experimental set-up was chosen that reproduces the typical manufacturing step of hydrodistillation. Essential oils of eucalyptus and lemon were selected exemplarily and spiked with 3 representative pyrrolizidine alkaloids (retrorsine, retrorsine-N-oxide, and lycopsamine), whereupon hydrodistillation was performed. Analysis of the resulting distillates by LC-MS/MS proved that artificially added pyrrolizidine alkaloids were removed completely. Moreover, quantitative pyrrolizidine alkaloid recovery in the aqueous phases was observed. Hence, it was experimentally confirmed that herbal medicinal products employing hydrodistilled essential oils of pharmaceutical quality are intrinsically free of pyrrolizidine alkaloids due to the particularities of their manufacturing process. Furthermore, it can be concluded from theoretical considerations that essential oils produced by cold pressing have a negligible risk of carrying pyrrolizidine alkaloid contamination. Our findings provide a strong indication that the requirement for analytical pyrrolizidine alkaloid testing of essential oils for pharmaceutical use should be fundamentally reconsidered.

Essential Oils, Phytoncides, Aromachology, and Aromatherapy—A Review

Chemical compounds from plants have been used as a medicinal source for various diseases. Aromachology is a unique field that studies the olfactory effects after inhaling aromatic compounds. Aromatherapy is a complementary treatment methodology involving the use of essential oils containing phytoncides and other volatile organic compounds for various physical and mental illnesses. Phytoncides possess an inherent medicinal property. Their health benefits range from treating stress, immunosuppression, blood pressure, respiratory diseases, anxiety, and pain to anti-microbial, anti-larvicidal, anti-septic, anti-cancer effects, etc. Recent advancements in aromatherapy include forest bathing or forest therapy. The inhalation of phytoncide-rich forest air has been proven to reduce stress-induced immunosuppression, normalize immune function and neuroendocrine hormone levels, and, thus, restore physiological and psychological health. The intricate mechanisms related to how aroma converts into olfactory signals and how the olfactory signals relieve physical and mental illness still pose enormous questions and are the subject of ongoing research. Aromatherapy using the aroma of essential oils/phytoncides could be more innovative and attractive to patients. Moreover, with fewer side effects, this field might be recognized as a new field of complementary medicine in alleviating some forms of physical and mental distress. Essential oils are important assets in aromatherapy, cosmetics, and food preservatives. The use of essential oils as an aromatherapeutic agent is widespread. Detailed reports on the effects of EOs in aromatherapy and their pharmacological effects are required to uncover its complete biological mechanism. This review is about the evolution of research related to phytoncides containing EOs in treating various ailments and provides comprehensive details from complementary medicine.

Lipid Extracts Obtained by Supercritical Fluid Extraction and Their Application in Meat Products

Supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) has been recognized as the green and clean technique without any negative impact on the environment. Although this technique has shown high selectivity towards lipophilic bioactive compounds, very few case studies on the application of these extracts in final products and different food matrices were observed. Considering the recent developments in food science and the increasing application of supercritical extracts in meat products in the last decade (2012–2022), the aim of this manuscript was to provide a systematic review of the lipid extracts and bioactives successfully obtained by supercritical fluid extraction and their application in meat products as antioxidant and/or antimicrobial agents. Lipophilic bioactives from natural resources were explained in the first step, which was followed by the fundamentals of supercritical fluid extraction and application on recovery of these bioactives. Finally, the application of natural extracts and bioactives obtained by this technique as functional additives in meat and meat products were thoroughly discussed in order to review the state-of-the-art techniques and set the challenges for further studies.

Occurrence of Marine Ingredients in Fragrance: Update on the State of Knowledge

The fragrance field of perfumes has attracted considerable scientific, industrial, cultural, and civilizational interest. The marine odor is characterized by the specific smell of sea breeze, seashore, algae, and oyster, among others. Marine odor is a more recent fragrance and is considered as one of the green and modern fragrances. The smells reproducing the marine environment are described due to their content of Calone 1951 (7-methyl-2H-1,5-benzodioxepin-3(4H)-one), which is a synthetic compound. In addition to the synthetic group of benzodioxepanes, such as Calone 51 and its derivatives, three other groups of chemical compounds seem to represent the marine smell. The first group includes the polyunsaturated cyclic ((+)-Dictyopterene A) and acyclic (giffordene) hydrocarbons, acting as pheromones. The second group corresponds to polyunsaturated aldehydes, such as the (Z,Z)-3,6-nonadienal, (E,Z)-2,6-nonadienal, which are most likely derived from the degradation of polyunsaturated fatty acids. The third group is represented by small molecules such as sulfur compounds and halogenated phenols which are regarded as the main flavor compounds of many types of seafood. This review exposes, most notably, the knowledge state on the occurrence of marine ingredients in fragrance. We also provide a detailed discussion on several aspects of essential oils, which are the most natural ingredients from various marine sources used in fragrance and cosmetics, including synthetic and natural marine ingredients.

Microwave-Assisted Hydrodistillation of Hop (Humulus lupulus L.) Terpenes: A Pilot-Scale Study

Interest in essential oils has consistently increased in recent years. Essential oils have a large variety of applications in multiple fields, including in the food, cosmetics and pharmaceutical industries. The volatile fraction (VF) in hops (Humulus lupulus L.) fits within this domain as it is primarily used in the brewery industry for the aromatization of beer, and is responsible for the floral and fruity tones. This work aims to design an optimized extraction protocol of the VF from hops, using microwaves. Microwave-assisted hydrodistillation (MAHD) has been developed to reduce energy and time consumption in lab-scale reactors up to industrial-scale systems. Hops are principally available in three forms, according to a brewery’s applications: (i) fresh (FH); (ii) dried (DH) and (iii) pelletized (PH). In this work, all three forms have therefore been studied and the recovered volatiles characterized by means of GC-MS. The optimized lab-scale MAHD protocol gave the best extraction yield of 20.5 mL_VF/kg_{dry matrix} for FH. This value underwent a slight contraction when working at the highest matrix amount (3 kg), with 17.3 mL_VF/kg_{dry matrix} being achieved. Further tests were then performed in a pilot reactor that is able to process 30 kg of material. In this case, high yield increases were observed for PH and DH; quadruple and double the lab-scale yields, respectively. In addition, this industrial-scale system also provided marked energy savings, practically halving the absorbed kJ/mL_VF.

Essential Oils as Natural Sources of Fragrance Compounds for Cosmetics and Cosmeceuticals

Fragrance is an integral part of cosmetic products and is often regarded as an overriding factor in the selection of cosmetics among consumers. Fragrances also play a considerable role in masking undesirable smells arising from fatty acids, oils and surfactants that are commonly used in cosmetic formulations. Essential oils are vital assets in the cosmetic industry, as along with imparting pleasant aromas in different products, they are able to act as preservatives and active agents and, simultaneously, offer various benefits to the skin. Moreover, the stimulating demand for natural ingredients has contributed massively to a renewed interest in cosmetic and wellness industries in plant derivatives, especially essential oils. This has led popular cosmetic companies to endorse natural fragrances and opt for minimally processed natural ingredients, given the potentially adverse health risks associated with artificial fragrance chemicals, which are major elements of cosmetics. Among the high-valued essential oils used as fragrances are citrus, lavender, eucalyptus, tea tree and other floral oils, among others, while linalool, geraniol, limonene, citronellol, and citral are much-appreciated fragrance components used in different cosmetics. Thus, this review aimed to highlight the enormous versatility of essential oils as significant sources of natural fragrances in cosmetics and cosmeceuticals. Moreover, a special focus will be laid on the different aspects related to essential oils such as their sources, market demand, chemistry, fragrance classification, aroma profile, authenticity and safety.

Valorisation of Ribes nigrum L. Pomace, an Agri-Food By-Product to Design a New Cosmetic Active

The ethical and ecological concerns of today’s consumers looking for both sustainable and efficient ingredients in finished products, put a lot of pressure on the cosmetic market actors who are being driven to profoundly modify the strategies adopted to innovate in terms of actives while notably being urged to switch from petroleum- to plant-based ingredients. To produce such natural cosmetic ingredients, agri-food by-products are advocated as raw material due to their reduced carbon footprint as they actively contribute to the worldwide improvement of waste management. The process to transform plant waste materials into such powerful and objectified “green” cosmetic actives in compliance with circular economy principles is a long-term integrated process. Such a development is thoroughly exemplified in the present paper through the description of the design of liquid anti-age ingredients based on Ribes nigrum L. extract. This was obtained by maceration of blackcurrant pomace. and the embodiment of this extract following its phytochemical analysis notably by HPLC-DAD-ELSD and its bioguided fractionation using in vitro bioassays.

Evaluation of Physical and Chemical Properties of Pomelo (Citrus grandis L.) Essential Oil using Steam Distillation Process

This study attempted the extraction of essential oils from the peels of pomelo (Citrus grandis L.) grown in Ben Tre province, Vietnam through hydrodistillation method. In addition, the chemical composition and physio-chemical properties of the essential oils were reported. The results showed that the extraction yield of the extraction process achieved about 1.67%. The physico-chemical index of essential oils is determined by specific gravity (0.8572 g/cm3), acid index (0.3556 mg KOH/g), ester index (2.4216 mg KOH/g), and refractive index (1.476). The GC-MS analyses of the oil indicated the component with highest content in the oil was α-limonene (96.491%), followed by α-pinene (0.686%), β-pinene (0.248%), β-myrcene (1.644%), α-phellandrene (0.793%) and β-cis-ocimene (0.138%). These results suggested that wastes from fruit peeling process can be converted into a new material source with great potential for industrial use.

A new integrated method of magnetic separation of isoquinoline alkaloids from Coptis chinensis based on their magnetized derivatives and key physical properties

For the first time, a new magnetic separation strategy for the separation of alkaloids from Coptis chinensis was developed in this study.