Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part II, protective action of solar filters

The skin surface lipids (SSLs) film, composed of sebum and keratinocyte membrane lipids, is crucial to the barrier function of the stratum corneum (SC). The first part of this study investigated the impact of solar radiation on the SC based on a novel hydration and dehydration approach using Raman spectroscopy. The SSLs were found to absorb solar light, and thus participate to the protection of the skin surface. However, the protective function of the SSLs may be limited and is dependent to the heterogenous distribution of SSLs over the body surface. To ensure comprehensive protection, synergistic measures such as the application of solar filters are necessary. In this second part of the study, we have evaluated the limits of the protection capacity of SSLs and explored the protective action of a solar filters on both SSLs composition and the water hydration and dehydration kinetics in the SC.

Noninvasive evaluation of the skin barrier in reconstructed human epidermis using speckle analysis: Correlation with Raman microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Reconstructed epidermis models, obtained from 3D keratinocytes culture, have gained significant prominence as prototypes for safety and efficacy testing in skin research. To effectively evaluate these models, it is essential to perform molecular and functional characterization. The skin's barrier function is one of the essential aspects of the epidermis that needs to be assessed. A noninvasive method is thus required for the evaluation of the skin barrier in these models. With this perspective, the aim of this feasibility study is to apply the speckle technique for the assessment of the skin barrier in the Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Speckle analysis as well as Raman microspectroscopy were performed on RHE samples at two maturation days, D17 and D20.

RESULTS

Between D17 and D20, our study showed an increase in various Raman parameters, including stratum corneum percentage, lateral lipid packing, lipid-to-protein ratio, and protein secondary structure. Furthermore, the degree of light polarization and the speckle grain size also increased over this period.

CONCLUSION

The speckle technique proved to be effective for evaluating the skin barrier in Reconstructed Human Epidermis (RHE) models. Comparison with Raman validates this approach and provides comprehensive molecular and functional characterization of reconstructive skin models.

Composition and structure analysis of different depths in the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microscopy combined with two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy

The chemical composition and structure of the stratum corneum (SC) play a crucial role in the skin barrier function. Therefore, accurately determining the SC thickness and studying the changes in lipid and keratin structure and distribution within it are key aspects of skin barrier research. Currently, there are limited analytical tools and data analysis methods available for real-time and online studies of SC composition and structural changes. In this study, we focus on depth as a perturbation and employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (MW2D) technique to investigate the SC thickness. Additionally, we employ confocal Raman microscopy combined with perturbation-correlation moving-window two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (PCMW2D) to precisely characterize the stratification of the SC. Furthermore, the two-dimensional correlation spectroscopy (2DCOS) method is utilized to examine the content of various conformations in the keratin secondary structure within the SC, as well as the subtle interrelationships between lipid and keratin structures.

Effect of Penetration Enhancer on the Structure of Stratum Corneum: On-Site Study by Confocal Polarized Raman Imaging

Keratin and lipid structures in the stratum corneum (SC) are closely related to the SC barrier function. The application of penetration enhancers (PEs) disrupts the structure of SC, thereby promoting infiltration. To quantify these PE-induced structural changes in SC, we used confocal Raman imaging (CRI) and polarized Raman imaging (PRI) to explore the integrity and continuity of keratin and lipid structures in SC. The results showed that water is the safest PE and that oleic acid (OA), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS), and low molecular weight protamine (LMWP) disrupted the ordered structure of keratin, while azone and liposomes had less of an effect on keratin. Azone, OA, and SDS also led to significant changes in lipid structure, while LMWP and liposomes had less of an effect. Establishing this non-invasive and efficient strategy will provide new insights into transdermal drug delivery and skin health management.

Review of optical methods for noninvasive imaging of skin fibroblasts-From in vitro to ex vivo and in vivo visualization

Fibroblasts are among the most common cell types in the stroma responsible for creating and maintaining the structural organization of the extracellular matrix in the dermis, skin regeneration, and a range of immune responses. Until now, the processes of fibroblast adaptation and functioning in a varying environment have not been fully understood. Modern laser microscopes are capable of studying fibroblasts in vitro and ex vivo. One-photon- and two-photon-excited fluorescence microscopy, Raman spectroscopy/microspectroscopy are well-suited noninvasive optical methods for fibroblast imaging in vitro and ex vivo. In vivo staining-free fibroblast imaging is not still implemented. The exception is fibroblast imaging in tattooed skin. Although in vivo noninvasive staining-free imaging of fibroblasts in the skin has not yet been implemented, it is expected in the future. This review summarizes the state-of-the-art in fibroblast visualization using optical methods and discusses the advantages, limitations, and prospects for future noninvasive imaging.

Quantification of skin penetration of caffeine and propylene glycol applied topically in a mixture by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares of depth-resolved Raman spectra

The quantitative determination of topically applied substances in the skin is severely limited and represents a challenging task. The porcine skin ex vivo was topically treated with a gel containing caffeine (CF) and propylene glycol (PG), and depth-resolved Raman spectra were recorded with two confocal Raman microscopes. We applied a novel tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares method to the selected spectral regions (512-604 and 778-1148 cm-1 ) of gel-treated skin and quantitatively determined the concentrations of CF and PG in the stratum corneum (SC). The highest concentration of CF (181 mg/cm3 ) was found at the surface, while PG (384 mg/cm3 ) was found at 10% SC depth, indicating the formation of a reservoir at the superficial SC. The concentrations of CF and PG decreased monotonically and reached the detection limit at ≈60% and ≈80% SC depth, respectively, indicating that neither permeate the SC.

Development of hyaluronic acid-silica composites via in situ precipitation for improved penetration efficiency in fast-dissolving microneedle systems

Fast-dissolving microneedles (DMNs) hold significant promise for transdermal drug delivery, offering improved patient compliance, biocompatibility, and functional adaptability for various therapeutic purposes. However, the mechanical strength of the biodegradable polymers used in DMNs often proves insufficient for effective penetration into human skin, especially under high humidity conditions. While many composite strategies have been developed to reinforce polymer-based DMNs, simple mixing of the reinforcements with polymers often results in ineffective penetration due to inhomogeneous dispersion of the reinforcements and the formation of undesired micropores. In response to this challenge, this study aimed to enhance the mechanical performance of hyaluronic acid (HA)-based microneedles (MNs), one of the most commonly used DMN systems. We introduced in situ precipitation of silica nanoparticles (Si) into the HA matrix in conjunction with conventional micromolding. The precipitated silica nanoparticles were uniformly distributed, forming an interconnected network within the HA matrix. Experimental results demonstrated that the mechanical properties of the HA-Si composite MNs with up to 20 vol% Si significantly improved, leading to higher penetration efficiency compared to pure HA MNs, while maintaining structural integrity without any critical defects. The composite MNs also showed reduced degradation rates and preserved their drug delivery capabilities and biocompatibility. Thus, the developed HA-Si composite MNs present a promising solution for efficient transdermal drug delivery and address the mechanical limitations inherent in DMN systems. STATEMENT OF SIGNIFICANCE: HA-Si composite dissolving microneedle (DMN) systems were successfully fabricated through in situ precipitation and conventional micromolding processes. The precipitated silica nanoparticles formed an interconnected network within the HA matrix, ranging in size from 25 to 230 nm. The optimal silica content for HA-Si composite MN systems should be up to 20 % by volume to maintain structural integrity and mechanical properties. HA-Si composite MNs with up to 20 % Si showed improved penetration efficiency and reduced degradation rates compared to pure HA MNs, thereby expanding the operational window. The HA-Si composite MNs retained good drug delivery capabilities and biocompatibility.

Altered structure indicating reduced barrier function of lesional compared to non-lesional psoriatic skin-A non-invasive in vivo study of the human stratum corneum with confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

Psoriasis, one of the most common skin diseases affecting roughly 2%-3% of the world population, is associated with a reduced skin barrier function (SBF) that might play an important role in its pathophysiology. The SBF is provided primarily by the stratum corneum (SC) of the skin. Previous studies have revealed a higher trans-epidermal water loss, lower hydration, abnormal concentration and composition of intercellular lipids, as well as alterations in secondary keratin structure in the psoriatic SC. We compared on molecular level lesional psoriatic skin (LPS) with non-lesional psoriatic skin (nLPS) from 19 patients non-invasively in vivo, using confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy. By analysing the corresponding Raman spectra, we determined SBF-defining parameters of the SC depth-dependently. Our results revealed a lower total lipid concentration, a shift of lamellar lipid organisation towards more gauche-conformers and an increase of the less dense hexagonal lateral packing of the intercellular lipids in LPS. Furthermore, we observed lower natural moisturising factor concentration, lower total water as well as a strong tendency towards less strongly bound and more weakly bound water molecules in LPS. Finally, we detected a less stable secondary keratin structure with increased β-sheets, in contrast to the tertiary structure, showing a higher degree of folded keratin in LPS. These findings clearly suggest structural differences indicating a reduced SBF in LPS, and are discussed in juxtaposition to preceding outcomes for psoriatic and healthy skin. Understanding the alterations of the psoriatic SC provides insights into the exact pathophysiology of psoriasis and paves the way for optimal future treatments.

Multispectral Raman Differentiation of Malignant Skin Neoplasms In Vitro: Search for Specific Biomarkers and Optimal Wavelengths

Confocal scanning Raman and photoluminescence (PL) microspectroscopy is a structure-sensitive optical method that allows the non-invasive analysis of biomarkers in the skin tissue. We used it to perform in vitro diagnostics of different malignant skin neoplasms at several excitation wavelengths (532, 785 and 1064 nm). Distinct spectral differences were noticed in the Raman spectra of basal cell carcinoma (BCC) and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC), compared with healthy skin. Our analysis of Raman/PL spectra at the different excitation wavelengths enabled us to propose two novel wavelength-independent spectral criteria (intensity ratios for 1302 cm-1 and 1445 cm-1 bands, 1745 cm-1 and 1445 cm-1 bands), related to the different vibrational "fingerprints" of cell membrane lipids as biomarkers, which was confirmed by the multivariate curve resolution (MCR) technique. These criteria allowed us to differentiate healthy skin from BCC and SCC with sensitivity and specificity higher than 95%, demonstrating high clinical importance in the differential diagnostics of skin tumors.

Atopic Dermatitis: Molecular Alterations between Lesional and Non-Lesional Skin Determined Noninvasively by In Vivo Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.

High wavenumber Raman spectroscopy for intraoperative assessment of breast tumour margins

Optimal oncological results and patient outcomes are achieved in surgery for early breast cancer with breast conserving surgery (BCS) where this is appropriate. A limitation of BCS occurs when cancer is present at, or close, to the resection margin - termed a 'positive' margin - and re-excision is recommended to reduce recurrence rate. This is occurs in 17% of BCS in the UK and there is therefore a critical need for a way to assess margin status intraoperatively to ensure complete excision with adequate margins at the first operation. This study presents the potential of high wavenumber (HWN) Raman spectroscopy to address this. Freshly excised specimens from thirty patients undergoing surgery for breast cancer were measured using a surface Raman probe, and a multivariate classification model to predict normal versus tumour was developed from the data. This model achieved 77.1% sensitivity and 90.8% specificity following leave one patient out cross validation, with the defining features being differences in water content and lipid versus protein content. This demonstrates the feasibility of HWN Raman spectroscopy to facilitate future intraoperative margin assessment at specific locations. Clinical utility of the approach will require further research.

Topical dexpanthenol effects on physiological parameters of the stratum corneum by Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy

BACKGROUND

Topical use of dexpanthenol presents well-established moisturizing properties and maintenance and repair of the skin barrier function, however, its exact action mechanisms are not completely elucidated. In this context, Confocal Raman Microspectroscopy is an optical method that enables non-invasive and non-destructive in vivo analysis with the sensitive acquisition of molecular changes in different skin layers. Herein, the aim was to evaluate the effects of topical dexpanthenol on the components and physiological parameters of the stratum corneum (SC).

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ten healthy female subjects underwent skin evaluation by means of a Confocal Raman Spectrometer Skin Analyzer 3510. Spectral data were obtained from the skin of the anterior forearm region, before and 2 h after applying a cosmetic formulation containing or not containing 5% dexpanthenol.

RESULTS

Semiquantitative analysis of the natural moisturizing factor showed a significant decrease in content after 2 h of topical dexpanthenol application, while the analysis of the lamellar organization of intercellular lipids and the secondary structure of keratin showed a significant increase in hexagonal organization of lipids at the first half of the SC and a significant increase in β-pleated sheet conformation of keratin.

CONCLUSION

Effects of topical dexpanthenol on SC suggest a contribution in increasing fluidity of both lipidic and protein components of the SC and are compatible with dexpanthenol activity in maintaining adequate physiological conditions and preventing transepidermal water loss. This study also contributes to the elucidation of action mechanisms and other concurrent biochemical processes.

The effect of long-term cigarette smoking on selected skin barrier proteins and lipids

The negative impact of cigarette smoking on the skin includes accelerated aging, pigmentation disorders, and impaired wound healing, but its effect on the skin barrier is not completely understood. Here, we studied the changes in selected epidermal proteins and lipids between smokers (45-66 years, smoking > 10 years, > 10 cigarettes per day) and non-smokers. Volar forearm epidermal and stratum corneum samples, obtained by suction blister and tape stripping, respectively, showed increased thickness in smokers. In the epidermis of smokers, we observed a significant upregulation of filaggrin, loricrin, and a trend of increased involucrin but no differences were found in the case of transglutaminase 1 and kallikrein-related peptidase 7, on the gene and protein levels. No significant changes were observed in the major skin barrier lipids, except for increased cholesterol sulfate in smokers. Liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry revealed shorter acyl chains in ceramides, and an increased proportion of sphingosine and 6-hydroxysphingosine ceramides (with C4 trans-double bond) over dihydrosphingosine and phytosphingosine ceramides in smokers, suggesting altered desaturase 1 activity. Smokers had more ordered lipid chains found by infrared spectroscopy. In conclusion, cigarette smoking perturbs the homeostasis of the barrier proteins and lipids even at a site not directly exposed to smoke.

Effects of solar radiations on stratum corneum hydration: Part I, protective role of skin surface lipids

This study used Raman spectroscopy to develop a new approach to evaluate the effects of solar radiation on the stratum corneum (SC). The method measures the SC's hydration and dehydration kinetics by calculating the vOH/vCH ratio to monitor the relative water content during the drying process. The study also investigated the role of skin surface lipids (SSLs) in protecting the SC from solar radiation. The SSLs film is a complex mixture of free fatty acids, triglycerides, wax esters, squalene, free and esterified cholesterols, that play a crucial role in the skin's barrier function. The results showed that solar radiation alters the water content and balance within the SC, and SSLs provide protection by acting as an optical filter by absorbing some of the energy of the solar light. This is confirmed by high temperature gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry analyses by revealing a decrease in specific lipids after irradiating the SSLs .

Characterisation of superficial corneocytes in skin areas of the face exposed to prolonged usage of respirators by healthcare professionals during COVID-19 pandemic

INTRODUCTION

During the COVID-19 pandemic healthcare workers (HCWs) have used respiratory protective equipment for prolonged periods, which has been associated with detrimental effects on the underlying skin. The present study aims to evaluate changes in the main cells (corneocytes) of the stratum corneum (SC) following prolonged and consecutive use of respirators.

METHODS

17 HCWs who wore respirators daily during routine hospital practice were recruited to a longitudinal cohort study. Corneocytes were collected via tape stripping from a negative control site (area outside the respirator) and from the cheek which was in contact with the device. Corneocytes were sampled on three occasions and analysed for the level of positive-involucrin cornified envelopes (CEs) and the amount of desmoglein-1 (Dsg1), as indirect measurements of immature CEs and corneodesmosomes (CDs), respectively. These were compared to biophysical measurements (Transepidermal water loss, TEWL, and SC hydration) at the same investigation sites.

RESULTS

A large degree of inter-subject variability was observed, with maximum coefficients of variation of 43% and 30% for the level of immature CEs and Dsg1, respectively. Although it was observed that there was not an effect of prolonged respirator usage on the properties of corneocytes, the level of CDs was greater at the cheek than the negative control site (p < 0.05). Furthermore, low levels of immature CEs correlated with greater TEWL values after prolonged respirator application (p < 0.01). It was also noted that a smaller proportion of immature CEs and CDs was associated with a reduced incidence of self-reported skin adverse reactions (p < 0.001).

CONCLUSIONS

This is the first study that investigated changes in corneocyte properties in the context of prolonged mechanical loading following respirator application. Although differences were not recorded over time, the levels of CDs and immature CEs were consistently higher in the loaded cheek compared to the negative control site and were positively correlated with a greater number of self-reported skin adverse reactions. Further studies are required to evaluate the role of corneocyte characteristics in the evaluation of both healthy and damaged skin sites.

Quantitative determination of concentration profiles of skin components and topically applied oils by tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares using in vivo confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy

The main components of the stratum corneum (SC), water, lipids, and proteins, are non-homogeneously distributed throughout the depth. The quantitative determination of their concentration profiles and penetration depth of topically applied substances are urgent topics of dermatological and cosmetic research. Confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy has distinct advantages when determining semi-quantitative concentrations of SC components and topically applied substances non-invasively and in vivo. In this work, we applied a tailored multivariate curve resolution-alternating least squares (tMCR-ALS) method to analyze Raman spectra of the SC in the 2000-4000 cm-1 region for quantitatively determining the concentrations of water, lipids, proteins, and topically applied oils using substance-related spectral loadings which were allowed to change depth-dependently from the SC's surface toward its bottom. tMCR-ALS makes matching of depth-dependent signal attenuation, that is, the normalization on keratin, unnecessary and requires only a few additional experiments for calibration - Raman spectra of the pure materials and their densities.

Atopic Dermatitis and Water: Is There an Optimum Water Intake Level for Improving Atopic Skin?

Water is a vital nutrient with innumerable functions for every living cell. The functions of human skin include protection against dehydration of the body. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a chronic pruritic inflammatory skin disease that presents with dry skin, erythematous and eczematous lesions, and lichenification. This paper discusses the question of whether extra water intake in children with AD affects skin hydration and the skin barrier function. Among the methods used to treat dry skin, topical leave-on products are the first-line treatment, intended to improve hydration and the skin barrier function. The effectiveness of adequate water intake as a measure to treat dry skin is still under debate. Normal skin hydration increases with dietary water intake, particularly in those with prior lower water consumption. Skin dryness in AD is instrumental to the itch and inflammation cycle, contributing to barrier impairment and aggravating disease severity and flares. Certain emollients provide significant hydration to AD skin, with relief of dryness and reduction in barrier impairment, disease severity, and flares. Further investigations are needed to evaluate the optimum water intake levels in children with AD, as important questions remain unanswered, namely, does oral hydration provide relief of skin dryness and reduce barrier impairment, disease severity, and flares; is there any additional benefit from using mineral or thermal spring water; or is there a need to specifically study the fluid/water intake in children with AD and food allergy (FA) restrictions?

Arginine-fructose-glucose from red ginseng extract reduces stiffness of keratin fiber in corneocyte of skin

PURPOSE

The moisture content of the stratum corneum of the skin changes depending on the external environment. The structure of keratinous fiber protein in corneocyte of the skin changes depending on the amount of moisture. As the moisture decreases, the population of the alpha-helix increases, the beta-sheet deceases, and the stiffness increases accordingly. Here, we investigated the effect of humectants from ginseng on the keratin structure.

METHODS

Corneocyte was prepared from dry porcine skin with disc tape and measured through ATR-FT-IR. The signal from amide I of the keratin protein in corneocyte was detected, and the change in the ratio of alpha-helix and beta-sheet was calculated. The test samples were treated on the exfoliated corneocyte, and the degree of change was checked.

RESULT

Arginine-fructose-glucose (AFG)-enriched extract of red ginseng was effective in changing the keratin structure and was superior to humectants such as glycerin. However, arginine, mono sugar were not effective, and the AFG form in which two sugars were bound to one amino acid could perform its function.

CONCLUSION

The present study suggests that AFG, when applied to cosmetics, is expected to improve skin texture in a different way from existing moisturizers represented by glycerin by reducing the alpha-helix structure of corneocyte keratin.

Glycerol and natural sugar-derived complex modulate differentially stratum corneum water-binding properties and structural parameters in an in vitro Raman-desorption model

The epidermal protective functions are closely associated with skin hydration homeostasis. The understanding of different states of water binding is a rising concept in assessing topically applied formulations and their interaction within the stratum corneum (SC). In addition to global water content, primary bound water, partially bound water, and unbound water and barrier-related lipid lateral packing and protein secondary structure can be measured by Raman spectroscopy. This study aimed to establish an in vitro SC model to evaluate differences in the efficacy of a natural sugar-derived complex in combination with glycerol and a botanical extract in modulating SC water binding and structural proteins and barrier lipids. These compounds were selected due to their water-binding and soothing properties. The SC water profiles were assessed at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth. After a 12-hour hyperhydration and subsequent product incubation the measurements were performed during a 6 hours desiccation phase. The maximal water caption and the time until reaching a steady state are measured as well as water retention and resistance against water loss. Global water content, partially bound, and unbound water, as well as lipid and protein structures were assessed with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Both the natural sugar-derived mixture and more pronounced, the same mixture with additional glycerol increased all three water-binding parameters at the surface and in 8 μm SC depth at the beginning and during the desiccation phase. Further addition of botanical extract did not result in an additional increase of the water-binding. All three formulations showed an increase in the lipid lateral packing values prevented the protein alteration as measured by β-sheets signal compared to blank. The present model is suited for screening studies comparing the specific effects of different compounds on hydration states. The natural sugar-derived mixture Aquaxyl showed evidence for an improvement of all SC hydration states, lipid and protein structure which was further enhanced by the addition of glycerol 5%. This improvement was evidenced at the surface and within the SC for all hydration-related parameters, and the lipid as well the protein structures. The addition of botanical extract phytoessence blue daisy did not show further improvement.

A cross-sectional study of Chinese women facial skin status with environmental factors and individual lifestyles

Geographical, environmental and pollution conditions affect facial skin health, but their effects on skin appearance have not been elucidated. This study aimed to describe the skin barrier and skin tone characteristics of Chinese subjects according to lifestyle and environmental conditions using in vitro measurements. In total, 1092 women aged 22-42 years were recruited from 7 representative Chinese cities. Eight skin parameters (hydration, sebum, pH, transdermal water loss, individual type angle, melanin index, erythema index, yellowness) were measured using noninvasive instruments; individual lifestyle data were also collected. Data on four meteorological factors (air temperature, relative humidity, sunshine duration, wind speed) and seven air pollution indicators (air quality index, fine particulate matter, breathable particulate matter, sulfur dioxide, nitrogen dioxide, carbon monoxide and ozone) were collected in each city from the China Meteorological Administration. Facial skin characteristics differed significantly between cities. Facial skin barrier characteristics and skin tones showed regional differences, with a better skin barrier associated with the western region, as indicated by high skin hydration and sebum secretion and a low pH value. According to the value of transdermal water loss, lighter and darker skin tones were found in the western and southern regions, respectively. Environmental conditions affected facial skin status. Air pollution induced facial skin issues, with fine particulate matter and nitrogen dioxide contributing the most. Individual lifestyles affected the facial skin barrier and skin tone.

Confocal Raman Micro-Spectroscopy for Discrimination of Glycerol Diffusivity in Ex Vivo Porcine Dura Mater

Dura mater (DM) is a connective tissue with dense collagen, which is a protective membrane surrounding the human brain. The optical clearing (OC) method was used to make DM more transparent, thereby allowing to increase in-depth investigation by confocal Raman micro-spectroscopy and estimate the diffusivity of 50% glycerol and water migration. Glycerol concentration was obtained, and the diffusion coefficient was calculated, which ranged from 9.6 × 10^-6 to 3.0 × 10^-5 cm²/s. Collagen-related Raman band intensities were significantly increased for all depths from 50 to 200 µm after treatment. In addition, the changes in water content during OC showed that 50% glycerol induces tissue dehydration. Weakly and strongly bound water types were found to be most concentrated, playing a major role in the glycerol-induced water flux and OC. Results show that OC is an efficient method for controlling the DM optical properties, thereby enhancing the in-depth probing for laser therapy and diagnostics of the brain. DM is a comparable to various collagen-containing tissues and organs, such as sclera of eyes and skin dermis.

Novel aspects of Raman spectroscopy in skin research

The analytical technology of Raman spectroscopy has an almost 100‐year history. During this period, many modifications and developments happened in the method like discovery of laser, improvements in optical elements and sensitivity of spectrometer and also more advanced light detection systems. Many types of the innovative techniques appeared (e.g. Transmittance Raman spectroscopy, Coherent Raman Scattering microscopy, Surface‐Enhanced Raman scattering and Confocal Raman spectroscopy/microscopy). This review article gives a short description about these different Raman techniques and their possible applications. Then, a short statistical part is coming about the appearance of Raman spectroscopy in the scientific literature from the beginnings to these days. The third part of the paper shows the main application options of the technique (especially confocal Raman spectroscopy) in skin research, including skin composition analysis, drug penetration monitoring and analysis, diagnostic utilizations in dermatology and cosmeto‐scientific applications. At the end, the possible role of artificial intelligence in Raman data analysis and the regulatory aspect of these techniques in dermatology are briefly summarized. For the future of Raman Spectroscopy, increasing clinical relevance and in vivo applications can be predicted with spreading of non‐destructive methods and appearance with the most advanced instruments with rapid analysis time.

Mechanisms and Implications of Bacterial Invasion across the Human Skin Barrier

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is associated with a deficiency of skin lipids, increased populations of Staphylococcus aureus in the microbiome, and structural defects in the stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of human skin. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, as it is unclear whether observed changes are the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. Previous studies have shown that S. aureus is capable of permeating across isolated human SC tissue when lipids are depleted to levels consistent with AD conditions. In this study, we expand upon this discovery to determine the mechanisms and implications of bacterial penetration into the SC barrier. Specifically, we establish if bacteria are permeating intercellularly or employing a combination of both inter- and intracellular travel. The mechanical implications of bacterial invasion, lipid depletion, and media immersion are also evaluated using a newly developed, physiologically relevant, temperature-controlled drip chamber. Results reveal for the first time that S. aureus can be internalized by corneocytes, indicating transcellular movement through the tissue during permeation, consistent with previous theoretical models. S. aureus also degrades the mechanical integrity of human SC, particularly when the tissue is partially depleted of lipids. These observed mechanical changes are likely the cause of broken or ruptured tissue seen as exudative lesions in AD flares. This work further highlights the necessity of lipids in skin microbial barrier function.

IMPORTANCE Millions of people suffer from the chronic inflammatory skin disease atopic dermatitis (AD), whose symptoms are associated with a deficiency of skin lipids that exhibit antimicrobial functions and increased populations of the opportunistic pathogen Staphylococcus aureus. However, the pathogenesis of AD is ambiguous, and it remains unclear if these observed changes are merely the result of AD or contribute to the pathogenesis of the disease. In this article, we demonstrate the necessity of skin lipids in preventing S. aureus from penetrating the outermost barrier of human skin, thereby causing a degradation in tissue integrity. This bacterial permeation into the viable epidermis could act as an inflammatory trigger of the disease. When coupled with delipidated AD tissue conditions, bacterial permeation can also explain increased tissue fragility, potentially causing lesion formation in AD patients that results in further enhancing bacterial permeability across the stratum corneum and the development of chronic conditions.

Current views on non-invasive in vivo determination of physiological parameters of the stratum corneum using confocal Raman microspectroscopy

Confocal Raman microspectroscopy is widely used in dermatology and cosmetology for analysis of the concentration of skin components (lipids, natural moisturizing factor molecules, water) and the penetration depth of cosmetic/medical formulations in the human stratum corneum (SC) in vivo. In recent years, it was shown that confocal Raman microspectroscopy can also be used for non-invasive in vivo depth-dependent determination of the physiological parameters of the SC, such as lamellar and lateral organization of intercellular lipids, folding properties of keratin, water mobility and hydrogen bonding states. The results showed that the strongest skin barrier function, which is primarily manifested by the orthorhombic organization of intercellular lipids, is provided at ≈20-40% SC depth, which is related to the maximal bonding state of water with surrounding components in the SC. The secondary and tertiary structures of keratin determine water binding in the SC, which is depth-dependent. This paper shows the technical possibility and advantage of confocal Raman microspectroscopy in non-invasive investigation of the skin and summarizes recent results on in vivo investigation of the human SC.

Impact of Alkanediols on Stratum Corneum Lipids and Triamcinolone Acetonide Skin Penetration

Alkanediols are widely used as multifunctional ingredients in dermal formulations. In addition to their preservative effect, considering their possible impact on drug penetration is also essential for their use. In the present study, the influence of 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol and 1,2-octanediol on the skin penetration of triamcinolone acetonide from four different semisolid formulations was investigated. Furthermore, confocal Raman spectroscopy measurements were performed to examine the influence of the alkanediols on stratum corneum lipid content and order. Alkanediols were found to increase the penetration of triamcinolone acetonide. However, the extent depends strongly on the formulation used. In certain formulations, 1,2-pentanediol showed the highest effect, while in others the penetration-enhancing effect increased with the alkyl chain length of the alkanediol used. None of the tested alkanediols extracted lipids from the stratum corneum nor reduced its thickness. Notwithstanding the above, the longer-chained alkanediols cause the lipids to be converted to a more disordered state, which favors drug penetration. This behavior could not be detected for the shorter-chained alkanediols. Therefore, their penetration-enhancing effect is supposed to be related to an interaction with the hydrophilic regions of the stratum corneum.

Raman confocal microscopy and biophysics multiparametric characterization of the skin barrier evolution with age

Skin aging is a multifactorial phenomenon that involves alterations at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels. Our aim was to carry out a multiparametric biophysical and Raman characterization of skin barrier between individuals of different age groups (<24 and >70 years old). Our results showed a significant decrease of lipids to proteins ratio overall the thickness of the stratum corneum and higher lateral packing in the outer part of the SC for elderly. This can explain the decrease in trans epidermal water loss measured values rather than only SC thickening. Both age groups showed similar water content at SC surface while elderly presented higher water content in deep SC and viable epidermis. Mechanical measurements showed a decrease in the elasticity and an increase in the fatigability with age and were correlated with partially bound water. Highest correlation and anti-correlation values were observed for the deepest part of the SC and the viable epidermis.

Salt-Dependent Phase Transition Behavior of Doubly Thermoresponsive Poly(sulfobetaine)-Based Diblock Copolymer Thin Films

The water vapor-induced swelling, as well as subsequent phase-transition kinetics, of thin films of a diblock copolymer (DBC) loaded with different amounts of the salt NaBr, is investigated in situ. In dilute aqueous solution, the DBC features an orthogonally thermoresponsive behavior. It consists of a zwitterionic poly(sulfobetaine) block, namely, poly(4-(N-(3'-methacrylamidopropyl)-N,N-dimethylammonio) butane-1-sulfonate) (PSBP), showing an upper critical solution temperature, and a nonionic block, namely, poly(N-isopropylmethacrylamide) (PNIPMAM), exhibiting a lower critical solution temperature. The swelling kinetics in D₂O vapor at 15 °C and the phase transition kinetics upon heating the swollen film to 60 °C and cooling back to 15 °C are followed with simultaneous time-of-flight neutron reflectometry and spectral reflectance measurements. These are complemented by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The collapse temperature of PNIPMAM and the swelling temperature of PSBP are found at lower temperatures than in aqueous solution, which is attributed to the high polymer concentration in the thin-film geometry. Upon inclusion of sub-stoichiometric amounts (relative to the monomer units) of NaBr in the films, the water incorporation is significantly increased. This increase is mainly attributed to a salting-in effect on the zwitterionic PSBP block. Whereas the addition of NaBr notably shifts the swelling temperature of PSBP to lower temperatures, the collapse temperature of PNIPMAM remains unaffected by the presence of salt in the films.

Improvement of Skin Permeation of Caffeine, a Hydrophilic Drug, by the Application of Water Droplets Provided by a Novel Humidifier Device

Recently, a novel humidifier that sprays water fine droplets equipped with a copolymer, poly(3,4-ethylene dioxythiophene)-poly(styrene sulfonate) (PEDOT/PSS) was developed. PEDOT/PSS in the humidifier absorbs water from the environment and releases fine water droplets by heating. In the present study, the effect of hydration on the skin barrier, stratum corneum, was first determined by the application of fine water droplets using the humidifier. The skin-penetration enhancement effect of a model hydrophilic drug, caffeine, was also investigated using the humidifier and compared with a conventional water-evaporative humidifier. More prolonged skin hydration effect was observed after application of the fine water droplet release humidifier using PEDOT/PSS than that using a conventional humidifier. In addition, markedly higher skin permeation of caffeine was observed in both infinite and finite dose conditions. Furthermore, higher skin permeation of caffeine from oil/water emulsion containing caffeine was observed in finite dose conditions by pretreatment with the humidifier using PEDOT/PSS. This device can provide water droplets without replenishing water, so it is more convenient for enhancing the skin permeation of chemical compounds from topical drugs and cosmetic formulations.

Sulfoxide-functionalized nanogels inspired by the skin penetration properties of DMSO

Among polymeric nanocarriers, nanogels are especially promising non-irritating delivery vehicles to increase dermal bioavailability of therapeutics. However, accurately tailoring defined interactions with the amphiphilic skin barrier is still challenging. To address this limited specificity, we herein present a new strategy to combine biocompatible nanogels with the outstanding skin interaction properties of sulfoxide moieties. These chemical motifs are known from dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO), a potent chemical penetration enhancer, which can often cause undesired skin damage upon long-term usage. By covalently functionalizing the nanogels' polymer network with such methyl sulfoxide side groups, tailor-made dermal delivery vehicles are developed to circumvent the skin disrupting properties of the small molecules. Key to an effective nanogel-skin interaction is assumed to be the specific nanogel amphiphilicity. This is examined by comparing the delivery efficiency of sulfoxide-based nanogels (NG-SOMe) with their corresponding thioether (NG-SMe) and sulfone-functionalized (NG-SO2Me) analogues. We demonstrate that the amphiphilic sulfoxide-based NG-SOMe nanogels are superior in their interaction with the likewise amphipathic stratum corneum (SC) showing an increased topical delivery efficacy of Nile red (NR) to the viable epidermis (VE) of excised human skin. In addition, toxicological studies on keratinocytes and fibroblasts show good biocompatibility while no perturbation of the complex protein and lipid distribution is observed via stimulated Raman microscopy. Thus, our NG-SOMe nanogels show high potential to effectively emulate the skin penetration enhancing properties of DMSO without its negative side effects.

Biomolecular modifications during keratinocyte differentiation: Raman spectroscopy and chromatographic techniques

From the basal layer until the stratum corneum, lipid and protein biomarkers associated with morphological changes denote keratinocyte differentiation and characterize each epidermis layer. Herein, we followed keratinocyte differentiation in the early stages using HaCaT cells over a period of two weeks by two complementary analytical techniques: Raman microspectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with high resolution mass spectrometry. A high concentration of calcium in the medium induced HaCaT cell differentiation in vitro. The results from both techniques underlined the keratinocyte passage from the granular layer (day 9) to the stratum corneum layer (day 13). After 13 days of differentiation, we observed a strong increase in the lipid content, decrease in proteins, decrease in DNA, and a decrease in glucosylceramides/ceramides and sphingomyelins/ceramides ratios.

Skin penetration/permeation success determinants of nanocarriers: Pursuit of a perfect formulation

The advent of nanocarriers in the field of pharmaceutical drug delivery, while exhibiting considerable advantages, has created challenges for researchers. Among the applications of nanocarriers, drug delivery to the skin has attracted increasing attention in recent decades due to its advantages over oral and parenteral administration. Accordingly, this work attempts to discuss the major obstacles surrounding topically applied formulations and different nanocarriers' potential to overcome these barriers to investigate whether their passive penetration through the skin is likely. Therefore, skin anatomical views and transcutaneous pathways are briefly reviewed. Factors commonly thought to influence skin penetration are discussed from the perspective of particularly penetrating nanocarriers. The formulation of these nanocarriers is outlined, and promising constituents are highlighted to help investigators optimize nanocarrier formulations.

A comparison of the in vitro permeation of 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid in human skin and in a living skin equivalent (LabSkin™)

OBJECTIVES

The safety assessment of personal care products often entails determining dermal absorption of their ingredients. Such experiments are typically performed in human or animal skin in vitro; however, ethical and safety considerations are associated with obtaining these tissues. Several human skin equivalent models (HSEs) have been developed as alternatives to human tissue. The barrier function of such models however, is normally less developed than human skin. Here, we examine the permeability of the HSE LabSkin^TM to a model compound, 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid (EA) compared with human skin.

METHODS

Skin uptake and permeation of EA was investigated in vitro using heat-separated human epidermis and LabSkin^TM . Finite dose (5 μL cm^-2 ) Franz-diffusion studies were conducted using 2 % (w/w) EA in a ternary solvent mixture comprising propylene glycol (PG), propylene glycol monolaurate (PGML), and isopropyl myristate (IPM). These excipients are commonly used in cosmetic products and they have been reported to promote permeation of EA in a different model, namely porcine skin.

RESULTS

Permeation of EA through LabSkin^TM was evident from 2 h; however, EA permeation in human skin was not detected until 5 h. Similar amounts of EA permeated through the two membranes at time points 8, 10, 12 and 24 h (p > 0.05). The cumulative amounts of EA delivered through LabSkin^TM at 24 h were 41.3 ± 2.0 µg cm^-2 , corresponding to 55.1 ± 1.8 % of the applied dose. Similar amounts permeated across human skin, 49.4 ± 4.1 µg cm^-2 , accounting for 58.0 ± 4.2 % of the dose applied (p > 0.05).

CONCLUSION

The permeation of EA in LabSkin^TM compared well with results for human epidermis in terms of the permeation profiles and the cumulative amounts of EA that permeated. The data suggest that the skin barrier of the two models was similar with regard to their overall permeability to the hydrophilic active EA. The findings are promising for the use of LabSkin^TM as a surrogate for human skin in permeability testing. Future studies will focus on exploring the reproducibility and robustness of LabSkin^TM for delivery of other actives that span a range of physicochemical properties.

Visualization of the in situ distribution of contents and hydrogen bonding states of cellular level water in apple tissues by confocal Raman microscopy

Raman spectroscopy has been employed for studying the hydrogen bonding states of water molecules for decades, however, Raman imaging data contain thousands of spectra, making it challenging to obtain information on water with different hydrogen bonds. In the current study, a novel method combining confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) imaging with the iterative curve fitting algorithms was developed to determine the distribution of water contents at the cellular level and water states with different hydrogen bonds in apple tissues. Raman imaging data ranging from 2700 to 3800 cm-1 were acquired from whole cells in the apple tissue, which were then decomposed into seven sub-peaks using the fixed-position Gaussian iterative curve fitting (FPGICF) algorithm. The content and hydrogen bonding states of cellular water were calculated as the area sum of the OH stretching vibration and the area ratio of DA-OH over DDAA-OH stretching vibration or the number of hydrogen bonds of each water molecule, respectively. Finally, the area of each sub-peak, the area sum of the OH stretching vibration, and the area ratio of DA-OH over DDAA-OH stretching vibration were used to visualize the distribution of each sub-peak, water contents and water states with different hydrogen bonds, respectively. In addition, it was found that the number of hydrogen bonds of each water molecule could also be considered as a criterion to describe the hydrogen bond states of water in apple tissues. The availability of such information should provide new insights for future study of cellular water in other food materials.

Seasonal variations in the skin parameters of Caucasian women from Central Europe

BACKGROUND

The human skin is greatly affected by external factors such as UV radiation (UVR), ambient temperature (T), and air humidity. These factors oscillate during the year giving rise to the seasonal variations in the skin properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of seasons, environmental T, relative and absolute humidity on the skin parameters of Caucasian women, perform a literature review and discuss the possible factors lying behind the found changes.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

We measured stratum corneum (SC) hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), sebum level, erythema index, and elasticity parameters R2 and R7 on the forehead and the cheek of Caucasian women from the Czech Republic throughout the year. We also performed a non-systematic literature review focused on the seasonal variations in these skin parameters.

RESULTS

We confirmed a well-documented low SC hydration and sebum production in winter. In spring, we found the lowest TEWL (on the forehead) and the highest SC hydration but also the highest erythema index and the lowest elasticity presumably indicating skin photodamage. For most of the skin parameters, the seasonal variations probably arise due to a complex action of different factors as we extensively discussed.

CONCLUSION

The data about the seasonal variations in the skin parameters are still highly inconsistent and further studies are needed for better understanding of the normal skin changes throughout the year.

Melanin distribution from the dermal-epidermal junction to the stratum corneum: non-invasive in vivo assessment by fluorescence and Raman microspectroscopy

The fate of melanin in the epidermis is of great interest due to its involvement in numerous physiological and pathological processes in the skin. Melanin localization can be assessed ex vivo and in vivo using its distinctive optical properties. Melanin exhibits a characteristic Raman spectrum band shape and discernible near-infrared excited (NIR) fluorescence. However, a detailed analysis of the capabilities of depth-resolved confocal Raman and fluorescence microspectroscopy in the evaluation of melanin distribution in the human skin is lacking. Here we demonstrate how the fraction of melanin at different depths in the human skin in vivo can be estimated from its Raman spectra (bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1) using several procedures including a simple ratiometric approach, spectral decomposition and non-negative matrix factorization. The depth profiles of matrix factorization components specific to melanin, collagen and natural moisturizing factor provide information about their localization in the skin. The depth profile of the collagen-related matrix factorization component allows for precise determination of the dermal-epidermal junction, i.e. the epidermal thickness. Spectral features of fluorescence background originating from melanin were found to correlate with relative intensities of the melanin Raman bands. We also hypothesized that NIR fluorescence in the skin is not originated solely from melanin, and the possible impact of oxidized species should be taken into account. The ratio of melanin-related Raman bands at 1,380 and 1,570 cm-1 could be related to melanin molecular organization. The proposed combined analysis of the Raman scattering signal and NIR fluorescence could be a useful tool for rapid non-invasive in vivo diagnostics of melanin-related processes in the human skin.

Stratum corneum occlusion induces water transformation towards lower bonding state: a molecular level in vivo study by confocal Raman microspectroscopy

OBJECTIVE

It is conventionally understood that occlusive effects are the retention of excessive water in the stratum corneum (SC), the increase of SC thickness (swelling) and a decrease of the transepidermal water loss. However, the influence of occlusion on water binding properties in the SC is unknown.

METHODS

The action of plant-derived jojoba and almond oils, as well as mineral-derived paraffin oil and petrolatum topically applied on human skin, is investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy. To understand the oils' influence on the SC on the molecular level, the depth-dependent hydrogen bonding states of water in the SC and their relationship to the conformation of keratin, concentration of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) molecules and lipid organization were investigated.

RESULTS

A significant SC swelling was observed only in petrolatum-treated skin. The water concentration was increased in oil-treated skin in the intermediate SC region (40-70% SC depth). Meanwhile, the amount of free, weakly and tightly bound water increased, and strongly bound water decreased in the uppermost SC region (0-30% SC depth). The NMF concentration of oil-treated skin was significantly lower at 50-70% SC depth. The lateral organization of lipids in oil-treated skin was lower at 0-30% SC depth. The secondary structure of keratin was changed towards an increase of β-sheet content in mineral-derived oil-treated skin and changed towards an increase of α-helix content in plant-derived oil-treated skin.

CONCLUSION

The occlusive properties can be summarized as the increase of free water and the transformation of water from a more strongly to a more weakly hydrogen bonding state in the uppermost SC, although some oils cause insignificant changes of the SC thickness. The accompanied changes in the keratin conformation at the intermediate swelling region of the SC also emphasize the role of keratin in the SC's water-transporting system, that is the water in the SC transports intercellularly and intracellularly in the intermediate swelling region and only intercellularly in the uppermost non-swelling region. Bearing this in mind, almond, jojoba and paraffin oils, which are not occlusive from the conventional viewpoint, have an occlusion effect similar to petrolatum on the SC.

In vivo Raman spectroscopy study on the stimulation mechanism of surfactant

BACKGROUND

Surfactant is widely used in skin care products and cleansers, while it may cause physical discomfort. In this study, in vivo Raman spectroscopy was used to explore surfactant irritation mechanism on skin, which was not found in literature.

METHODS

Sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) was chosen to represent surfactant. Research on the negative effect of SDS was undertaken by scanning the two states of the skin (without and with the contact of SDS), respectively, on six volunteers, by means of Raman technique and skin magnifier.

RESULTS

The damage to the surface of normal skin by SDS was visible from the photographs taken by skin magnifier, and the apparent damage matched the damage that was happening underneath the skin elucidated by Raman spectra. Compared to the normal skin, the inter-cellular lipids (ICL) lateral packing order of the damaged skin was significantly reduced in 2-12 μm of skin depth (P < 0.05), deeper than 12 μm was not detected. The skin depth of 0-2 μm could not be determined due to strong interference of SDS. Significant change in the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin was not found.

Therapeutic Interventions to Reduce Radiation Induced Dermal Injury in a Murine Model of Tissue Expander Based Breast Reconstruction

BACKGROUND

Radiation therapy (XRT) induced dermal injury disrupts type I collagen architecture. This impairs cutaneous viscoelasticity, which may contribute to the high rate of complications in expander-based breast reconstruction with adjuvant XRT. The objective of this study was to further elucidate the mechanism of radiation-induced dermal injury and to determine if amifostine (AMF) or deferoxamine (DFO) mitigates type I collagen injury in an irradiated murine model of expander-based breast reconstruction.

METHODS

Female Lewis rats (n = 20) were grouped: expander (control), expander-XRT (XRT), expander-XRT-AMF (AMF), and expander-XRT-DFO (DFO). Expanders were surgically placed. All XRT groups received 28 Gy of XRT. The AMF group received AMF 30 minutes before XRT, and the DFO group used a patch for delivery 5 days post-XRT. After a 20-day recovery period, skin was harvested. Atomic force microscopy and Raman spectroscopy were performed to evaluate type I collagen sheet organization and tissue compositional properties, respectively.

RESULTS

Type I collagen fibril disorganization was significantly increased in the XRT group compared with the control (83.8% vs 22.4%; P = 0.001). Collagen/matrix ratios were greatly reduced in the XRT group compared with the control group (0.49 ± 0.09 vs 0.66 ± 0.09; P = 0.017). Prophylactic AMF demonstrated a marked reduction in type I collagen fibril disorganization on atomic force microscopy (15.9% vs 83.8%; P = 0.001). In fact, AMF normalized type I collagen organization in irradiated tissues to the level of the nonirradiated control (P = 0.122). Based on Raman spectroscopy, both AMF and DFO demonstrated significant differential protective effects on expanded-irradiated tissues. Collagen/matrix ratios were significantly preserved in the AMF group compared with the XRT group (0.49 ± 0.09 vs 0.69 ± 0.10; P = 0.010). β-Sheet/α-helix ratios were significantly increased in the DFO group compared with the XRT group (1.76 ± 0.03 vs 1.86 ± 0.06; P = 0.038).

CONCLUSIONS

Amifostine resulted in a significant improvement in type I collagen fibril organization and collagen synthesis, whereas DFO mitigated abnormal changes in collagen secondary structure in an irradiated murine model of expander-based breast reconstruction. These therapeutics offer the ability to retain the native microarchitecture of type I collagen after radiation. Amifostine and DFO may offer clinical utility to reduce radiation induced dermal injury, potentially decreasing the high complication rate of expander-based breast reconstruction with adjuvant XRT and improving surgical outcomes.

Systematic Investigation of the Effect of Non-Ionic Emulsifiers on Skin by Confocal Raman Spectroscopy-A Comprehensive Lipid Analysis

Non-ionic emulsifiers are commonly found in existing pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulations and have been widely employed to enhance the penetration and permeation of active ingredients into the skin. With the potential of disrupting skin barrier function and increasing fluidity of stratum corneum (SC) lipids, we herein examined the effects of two kinds of non-ionic emulsifiers on intercellular lipids of skin, using confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) with lipid signals on skin CRS spectrum. Non-ionic emulsifiers of polyethylene glycol alkyl ethers and sorbitan fatty acid esters were studied to obtain a deep understanding of the mechanism between non-ionic emulsifiers and SC lipids. Emulsifier solutions and dispersions were prepared and applied onto excised porcine skin. Water and sodium laureth sulfate solution (SLS) served as controls. SC lipid signals were analysed by CRS regarding lipid content, conformation and lateral packing order. Polyethylene glycol (PEG) sorbitan esters revealed no alteration of intercellular lipid properties while PEG-20 ethers appeared to have the most significant effects on reducing lipid content and interrupting lipid organization. In general, the polyoxyethylene chain and alkyl chain of PEG derivative emulsifiers might indicate their ability of interaction with SC components. HLB values remained critical for complete explanation of emulsifier effects on skin lipids. With this study, it is possible to characterize the molecular effects of non-ionic emulsifiers on skin lipids and further deepen the understanding of enhancing substance penetration with reduced skin barrier properties and increased lipid fluidity.

An in vitro Raman study on compositional correlations of lipids and protein with animal tissue hydration

Raman spectroscopy is a powerful non-invasive tool for detection and classification of chemical composition of materials including biological tissues. In this work, we report an in vitro Raman study on animal skin samples with a focus on high-frequency vibrations such as symmetric CH₃ stretching mode at 2934 cm^-1, and the symmetric CH₂ vibration mode at 2854 cm^-1, OH stretching modes near 3412 cm^-1, and bounded OH mode near 3284 cm^-1. Raman data was acquired with a customized InGaAs based Raman spectrometer that consolidates the NIR (866 nm) light and the InGaAs detector and is particularly suitable for probing high-frequency vibrations. The Raman spectra of fat, tendon, and muscle tissues are also analyzed to determine the spectroscopic identities of CH and OH groups in skin. Our results suggest that the protein is beneficial for the maintenance of skin hydration, as it has higher water capacity and greater capability to retain water than lipids. This conclusion is consistent with the additional discovery that water exists in fat mainly as unbound type, while part of water exists as bound type in muscle.

Can ethanol affect the cell structure? A dynamic molecular and Raman spectroscopy study

The role that tobacco consumption plays in the etiology of oral cancer carcinogenesis, and of alcohol consumption acting as a co-factor, have been well established. However, in recent years, the contribution of alcohol consumption alone to oral cancer has been proposed. In fact, a high percentage of patients who develop oral cancer have both habits (tobacco and alcohol consumption), and other small patient groups only consume alcohol or do not have any other identifiable bad habits. In the present study we demonstrate, using a combination of dynamic molecular modelling and Raman spectroscopy, that ethanol has a significant effect on oral cells in vitro, mainly interacting with the lipids of the cell membrane, changing their conformation. Thus, it is possible to conclude that ethanol can affect the cell permeability, and by consequence serve as a possible trigger in oral carcinogenesis.

Hydration and Solvent Exchange Induced Swelling and Deswelling of Homogeneous Poly(N-isopropylacrylamide) Microgel Thin Films

The investigation of the response kinetics of smart colloidal microgel films is crucial for their optimization to enable advanced applications. We study the classical thermoresponsive microgel model system N-isopropylacrylamide cross-linked with N,N'-methylenebisacrylamide. Without the typically used polyelectrolyte coating of the substrate, thin microgel films are prepared in a single spin-coating step. Atomic force microscopy measurements reveal an extremely dense packing, resulting in a homogeneous compact thin film of microgel particles. The hydration kinetics of these films in H₂O and D₂O atmospheres as well as the kinetics of the solvent exchange between both water species are investigated with in situ time-of-flight neutron reflectometry (TOF-NR) and in situ Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. With accounting for a nonconstant humid atmosphere, the intrinsic diffusion dynamics of water molecules into the thin microgel film are modeled and the specific time constant τ and the effective Flory-Huggins interaction parameter χ_eff are determined. Comparing the results in H₂O and D₂O atmospheres, TOF-NR and FTIR spectroscopy results show an increased affinity of the microgel films toward H₂O as compared to D₂O. From the FTIR spectroscopy data, we further identify different kinetics of intermolecular processes and order them according to their temporal evolution.

In vivo Tracking of DNA for Precise Determination of the Stratum Corneum Thickness and Superficial Microbiome Using Confocal Raman Microscopy

The skin barrier function is mostly provided by the stratum corneum (SC), the uppermost layer of the epidermis. To noninvasively analyze the physiological properties of the skin barrier functionin vivo, it is important to determine the SC thickness. Confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) is widely used for this task. In the present in vivo study, a new method based on the determination of the DNA concentration profile using CRM is introduced for determining the SC thickness. The obtained SC thickness values are compared with those obtained using other CRM-based methods determining the water and lipid depth profiles. The obtained results show almost no significant differences in SC thickness for the utilized methods. Therefore, the results indicate that it is possible to calculate the SC thickness by using the DNA profile in the fingerprint region, which is comparable with the SC thickness calculated by the water depth profiles (ANOVA test p = 0.77) and the lipid depth profile (ANOVA test p = 0.74). This provides the possibility to measure the SC thickness by using the DNA profile, in case the water or lipid profile analyses are influenced by a topically applied formulation. The increase in DNA concentration in the superficial SC (0-2 µm) is related to the DNA presence in the microbiome of the skin, which was not present in the SC depth below 4 µm.

Toward Milder Personal Care Cleansing Products: Fast ex vivo Screening of Irritating Effects of Surfactants on Skin Using Raman Microscopy

We report a novel Raman technique that allows fast and reliable ex vivo assessment of the irritability of personal care cleansing products to the skin in terms of the molecular-level effects such as retention of water by corneocytes, change in the packing order and content of intercellular lipids, and the structure of keratin. We test this technique for the single surfactants (dodecyl glucoside, sodium dodecyl sulfate, sodium cocoyl glycinate, lauramidopropyl betaine) that are typically used in personal care, as well as on three types of commercial soap bars (“superfat”, “syndet”, and “combar”). We find that soaking of the skin for prolonged time in pure water can cause unfolding of keratin, which is commonly considered as a signature of “harshness” when dealing with the surfactant formulations. Moreover, molecular-level signatures of irritability of the test surfactants and soaps at brief (10 min) exposure times do not follow the trend expected from their critical micelle concentrations (CMC) and collagen swelling. In particular, dodecyl glucoside has positive impact on the barrier properties of the stratum corneum (SC) and apparent detergency properties (solubilizes lipids without affecting their packing order). We also find that two qualitatively different soap bars (“superfat” and “syndet”) are similarly mild under the conditions studied, while the “combar” soap has detergency properties. These results demonstrate that to improve methodology of predicting irritability of a surfactant-based formulation, we need to study more systematically the molecular-level responses of the SC to exposure.