Kinetics of Tyrosinase Inhibitory Activity Using Vitis vinifera Leaf Extracts

Vitis vinifera L. Leaf Extract, a Microbiota Green Ally against Infectious and Inflammatory Skin and Scalp Diseases: An In-Depth Update

The skin microbiota, with its millions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, plays a key role in balancing the health of the skin and scalp. Its continuous exposure to potentially harmful stressors can lead to abnormalities such as local dysbiosis, altered barrier function, pathobiont overabundance, and infections often sustained by multidrug-resistant bacteria. These factors contribute to skin impairment, deregulation of immune response, and chronic inflammation, with local and systemic consequences. In this scenario, according to the needs of the bio-circular-green economy model, novel harmless strategies, both for regulating the diverse epidermal infectious and inflammatory processes and for preserving or restoring the host skin eubiosis and barrier selectivity, are requested. Vitis vinifera L. leaves and their derived extracts are rich in plant secondary metabolites, such as polyphenols, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties that can be further exploited through microbe-driven fermentation processes. On this premise, this literature review aims to provide an informative summary of the most updated evidence on their interactions with skin commensals and pathogens and on their ability to manage inflammatory conditions and restore microbial biodiversity. The emerging research showcases the potential novel beneficial ingredients for addressing various skincare concerns and advancing the cosmeceutics field as well.

Global research trends on melasma: a bibliometric and visualized study from 2014 to 2023

Melasma, a prevalent pigmentary disorder, is characterized by its complex etiology, propensity for recurrence, and resistance to treatment. However, there is currently no research on melasma through bibliometrics and visualisation. This study analyses the hotspots and trends in the field based on 2,709 publications from the Web of Science Core Collection (WOSCC). We carried out bibliometric analyses using Citespace software for different countries/regions, institutions, authors, and keywords. References were also analysed using VoSviewer. The results indicate that overall, there has been an increase in publications related to melasma since 2014. According to the analysis of the collaborative network diagram, the United States, Egyptian Knowledge Bank, and Benjakul Soottawat are the most contributing countries, institutions, and authors, respectively. Reference and keyword analyses have identified the pathogenesis and treatment of melasma as a prevalent topic in recent years. And how to find new treatment options and more effective therapeutic drugs is a future research trend. This is the first bibliometric and visual analysis of melasma-related literature to explore research hotspots and trends.

Valorization of grape (Vitis vinifera) leaves for bioactive compounds: novel green extraction technologies and food-pharma applications

Grape leaves, scientifically known as Vitis vinifera, the primary by-product obtained after the processing of grapes, are gathered in enormous amounts and disposed of as agricultural waste. For more sustainable agriculture and better food systems, it is crucial to investigate these byproducts' nutritional values. The primary bioactive compounds present in grape leaves are quercetin, resveratrol, caffeic acid, kaempferol, and gallic acid, which favour pharmacological effects on human health such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-obesity, anti-diabetic, and hepatoprotective. Furthermore, grape leaves extract has been used as a functional ingredient for creating both food and non-food products. The aim of the current review is to review the nutritional and phytochemical composition of various varieties of grape leaves, their health-promoting characteristics and their applications. The study also highlights the various extraction techniques including conventional and non-conventional methods for extracting the various bioactive compounds present in grape leaves. Grape leaves bioactives can be extracted using environmentally safe and sustainable processes, which are in line with the rising demand for eco-friendly and healthful products worldwide. These methods are perfectly suited to the changing needs of both customers and industries since they lessen environmental effect, enhance product quality, and offer financial advantages.

Shoot Cultures of Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) Different Cultivars as a Promising Innovative Cosmetic Raw Material-Phytochemical Profiling, Antioxidant Potential, and Whitening Activity

The primary purpose of this work was the initiation and optimization of shoot cultures of different Vitis vinifera L. cultivars: cv. Chardonnay, cv. Hibernal, cv. Riesling, cv. Johanniter, cv. Solaris, cv. Cabernet Cortis, and cv. Regent. Cultures were maintained on 30-day growth cycles using two media, Murashige and Skoog (MS) and Schenk and Hildebrandt (SH), with various concentrations of plant growth regulators. Tested media ('W1'-'W4') contained varying concentrations of 6-benzylaminopurine (BA) in addition to indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) and 1-naphthaleneacetic acid (NAA). High performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (UPLC-MS) was used for metabolomic profiling. In all tested extracts, 45 compounds were identified (6 amino acids, 4 phenolic acids, 13 flavan-3-ols, 3 flavonols, and 19 stilbenoids). Principal component analysis (PCA) was performed to assess the influence of the genotype and medium on metabolic content. PCA showed that metabolic content was mainly influenced by genotype and to a lesser extent by medium composition. MS media variants induced the amino acid, procyanidin, and flavan-3-ol production. In addition, the antioxidant potential and anti-tyrosinase activity was measured spectrophotometrically. The studies on antioxidant activity clearly reveal very high efficiency in reducing free radicals in the tested extracts. The strongest tyrosinase inhibition capacity was proved for shoots cv. Hibernal cultured in SH medium and supplemented with NAA, with an inhibition of 17.50%. These studies show that in vitro cultures of V. vinifera cvs. can be proposed as an alternative source of plant material that can be potentially used in cosmetic industry.

Physical properties and pharmacological applications of Co3O4, CuO, NiO and ZnO nanoparticles

Nano materials have found developing interest in biogenic approaches in the present times. In this study, metal oxide nanoparticles (NPs) such as cobalt oxide (Co₃O₄), copper oxide (CuO), nickel oxide (NiO) and zinc oxide (ZnO), were synthesized using a convenient and rapid method. The structural features of synthesized metal oxide NPs were studied using various microscopic and spectroscopic techniques like SEM, TEM, XRD, FTIR and EDX. The characterization results confirmed that the prepared NPs possess highly pure, unique and crystalline geometry with size ranging between 10 and 20 nm. The synthesized nanoparticles were successfully employed for pharmacological applications. Enzyme inhibition potential of NPs was evaluated against the urease and tyrosinase enzymes. The percent inhibition for the urease enzyme was observed as 80 to 90% by using Co₃O₄, CuO, NiO and ZnO NPs while ZnO NPs were found to have best anti-urease and anti-tyrosinase activities. Moreover, effective inhibition was observed in the case of ZnO NPs at IC₅₀ values of 0.0833 and 0.1732 for urease and tyrosinase enzymes which were comparable to reference drugs thiourea and kojic acid. The lower the IC₅₀ value, higher the free radical scavenging power. Antioxidant activity by DPPH free radical scavenging method was found moderately high for the synthesized metal oxide NPs while best results were obtained for Co₃O₄ and ZnO NPs as compared to the standard ascorbic acid. Antimicrobial potential was also evaluated via the disc diffusion and well diffusion methods. CuO NPs show a better zone of inhibition at 20 and 27 mm by using both methods. This study proves that the novel metal oxide NPs can compete with the standard materials used in the pharmacological studies nowadays.

Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material

This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)-a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry.

Microwave-Assisted Dendropanax morbifera Extract for Cosmetic Applications

Recently, utilizing natural bioactive compounds for active ingredients in cosmetics has become a growing worldwide trend. More and more studies aim to identify the sources of herbal ingredients for applications in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. Additionally, in order to optimize the safety of natural ingredients, choosing an environmentally friendly extraction method also plays an important role. In this work, an eco-friendly extraction technique for Dendropanax morbifera using microwave treatment and microwave-assisted Dendropanax morbifera extract (MA-DME) was investigated. The results indicate that higher yields of MA-DME were obtained than with conventional methods and that D. morbifera’s antioxidant properties were enhanced. Moreover, we found that MA-DME exhibited extraordinary antioxidant, anti-aging, and skin-whitening activities. We suggest MA-DME as a potential cosmeceutical ingredient than could be utilized for comprehensive protection of human skin.

Grapevine Wastes: A Rich Source of Antioxidants and Other Biologically Active Compounds

Wine production is one of the most critical agro-industrial sectors worldwide, generating large amounts of waste with negative environmental impacts, but also with high economic value and several potential applications. From wine shoots to grape pomace or seeds, all of the wastes are rich sources of bioactive compounds with beneficial effects for human health, with these compounds being raw materials for other industries such as the pharmaceutical, cosmetic or food industries. Furthermore, these compounds present health benefits such as being antioxidants, supporting the immune system, anti-tumoral, or preventing cardiovascular and neural diseases. The present work aims to be a critical discussion of the extraction methods used for bioactive compounds from grapevine waste and their beneficial effects on human health.

Inhibitory activities of grape bioactive compounds against enzymes linked with human diseases

A quest for identification of novel, safe and efficient natural compounds, as additives in the modern food and cosmetic industries, has been prompted by concerns about toxicity and side effects of synthetic products. Plant phenolic compounds are one of the most documented natural products due to their multifarious biological applications. Grape (Vitis vinifera) is an important source of phenolic compounds such as phenolic acids, tannins, quinones, coumarins and, most importantly, flavonoids/flavones. This review crisply encapsulates enzyme inhibitory activities of various grape polyphenols towards different key human-ailment-associated enzymes: xanthine oxidase (gout), tyrosinase (hyperpigmentation), α-amylase and α-glucosidase (diabetes mellitus), pancreatic lipase (obesity), cholinesterase (Alzheimer's disease), angiotensin i-converting enzymes (hypertension), α-synuclein (Parkinson's disease) and histone deacetylase (various diseases). The review also depicts the enzyme inhibitory mechanism of various grape polyphenols and briefly discusses their stature as potential therapeutic and drug development candidates. KEY POINTS: • Nineteen major bioactive polyphenols from the grape/grape products and their disease targets are presented • Sixty-two important polyphenols as enzyme inhibitors from grape/grape products are presented • A thorough description and graphical presentation of biological significance of polyphenols against various diseases.

Phytosome drug delivery system for natural cosmeceutical compounds: Whitening agent and skin antioxidant agent

Plants have been used as traditional medicine since ancient times for treating the diseases, metabolite active compounds from plants have excellent bioactivity, and pharmacological properties from plants are used as skin whitening agent and antioxidant in multiple mechanisms of action. However, these compounds have physicochemical limitations in terms of its poor solubility and penetration into the cells membrane. Phytosome drug delivery system can be the primary choice to improve the physicochemical properties, which allows increasing the effectiveness. This review aimed to summarize and discuss the phytosome formulations of potential active compounds as skin whitening agent and skin antioxidant, which obtained from Scopus, PubMed, and Google Scholar databases. We assessed that the main purpose of these phytosome formulations was to improve penetration, stability, and solubility of the active compounds. These studies proved that phytosome formulations can improve the physicochemical characteristics and effectiveness of compounds. The phytosome drug delivery system becomes a promising modification technique for natural compounds due to the ability to improve the physicochemical properties and increase the effectiveness. Phytosome formulation could be the excellent approach for cosmeceutical product with good effectivity in the future.

Functionality of Silk Cocoon (Bombyx mori L.) Sericin Extracts Obtained through High-Temperature Hydrothermal Method

Sericin, a textile waste, can be used for antioxidant and skin-whitening purposes. The hydrothermal method of extracting sericin is more eco-friendly than are chemical and enzymatic methods. In this study, silk cocoons were cut into pieces and then subjected to hydrothermal extraction at three temperatures (160, 200, and 220 °C) to obtain sericin extracts (Sericin160, Sericin200, and Sericin220, respectively). Antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibition were measured to determine the extracts' effectiveness. Sericin220 was the strongest antioxidant, with total phenol content, total flavonoid content, and ferric reducing power of 62.19 ± 0.04 mg gallic acid equivalents/g dry weight, 0.07 ± 0.01 mg quercetin equivalent/g dry weight, and 181.49 ± 0.024 mg vitamin C equivalent/g dry weight, respectively. The half-maximal inhibitory concentrations for DPPH and ABTS free-radical scavenging ability were 6.41 ± 0.05 and 0.79 ± 0.37 mg/mL, respectively. Sericin220 also exhibited the highest tyrosinase inhibition activity (70.82 ± 4.1 mg vitamin C equivalent/g), indicating its whitening potential.

Evaluating the Antioxidants, Whitening and Antiaging Properties of Rice Protein Hydrolysates

Plant-derived protein hydrolysates have potential applications in nutrition. Rice protein hydrolysates (RPHs), an excellent source of proteins, have attracted attention for the development of cosmeceuticals. However, few studies have reported the potential application of RPH in analysis, and this study examined their antioxidant activities and the inhibitory activities of skin aging enzymes. The results indicated that the total phenolic and flavonoid concentrations were 2.06 ± 0.13 mg gallic acid equivalent/g RPHs and 25.96 ± 0.52 µg quercetin equivalent/g RPHs, respectively. RPHs demonstrated dose-dependent activity for scavenging free radicals from 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl [half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) = 42.58 ± 2.1 mg/g RPHs] and 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (IC50 = 2.11 ± 0.88 mg/g RPHs), dose-dependent reduction capacity (6.95 ± 1.40 mg vitamin C equivalent/g RPHs) and oxygen radical absorbance capacity (473 µmol Trolox equivalent/g RPHs). The concentrations of the RPH solution required to achieve 50% inhibition of hyaluronidase and tyrosinase activities were determined to be 8.91 and 107.6 mg/mL, respectively. This study demonstrated that RPHs have antioxidant, antihyaluronidase, and antityrosinase activities for future cosmetic applications.

The Role of Anthocyanins, Deoxyanthocyanins and Pyranoanthocyanins on the Modulation of Tyrosinase Activity: An In Vitro and In Silico Approach

Tyrosinase is the central enzyme involved in the highly complex process of melanin formation, catalyzing the rate-limiting steps of this biosynthetic pathway. Due to such a preponderant role, it has become a major target in the treatment of undesired skin pigmentation conditions and also in the prevention of enzymatic food browning. Numerous phenolic-based structures from natural sources have been pointed out as potential tyrosinase inhibitors, including anthocyanins. The aim of the present study was to individually assess the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of eight purified compounds with a variable degree of structural complexity: native anthocyanins, deoxyanthocyanins, and pyranoanthocyanins. The latter two, the groups of anthocyanin-related compounds with enhanced stability, were tested for the first time. Compounds 1 to 4 (luteolinidin, deoxymalvidin, cyanidin-, and malvidin-3-O-glucoside) revealed to be the most effective inhibitors, and further kinetic studies suggested their inhibition mechanism to be of a competitive nature. Structure–activity relationships were proposed based on molecular docking studies conducted with mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) and human tyrosinase-related protein 1 (hTYRP1) crystal structures, providing information about the binding affinity and the different types of interactions established with the enzyme’s active center which corroborated the findings of the inhibition and kinetic studies. Overall, these results support the applicability of these compounds as pigmentation modulators.

Plant-derived antioxidants incorporated into active packaging intended for vegetables and fatty animal products: a review

Nowadays, the food industry is focused on improving the shelf life of products by controlling lipid oxidation using natural antioxidants. The study of natural antioxidants is a field that attracts great interest because of their greater safety compared to synthetic ones. Plant-derived antioxidants being eco-friendly and effective are increasingly playing an important role in food preservation. When incorporated into active packaging, plant-derived antioxidants have no direct contact with foods, and will not change the colour or taste of the foods. They will, however, inhibit the development of rancidity, retard formation of toxic oxidation products, maintain nutritional quality, and prolong the shelf life of products. This review summarises research on the development of plant-derived antioxidants in food packaging. Antioxidants are found in plants such as green tea, olive leaves, ginkgo leaves, rosemary, Indian gooseberry, cinnamon, savoury, bay leaves, mango leaves, sage and clove etc. Antioxidants can scavenge free radicals and inhibit the activity of polyphenol oxidase. Therefore, they can inhibit lipid oxidation and browning of fruit and vegetables. These active substances can be obtained through extracting the plants using solvents with different polarities. The oxidation resistance of active substances can be determined by DPPH radical scavenging capacity, oxygen radical absorbance capacity, PPO enzyme inhibition capacity and other methods. In recent years, research on the preparation of food packaging with plant-derived antioxidants has also made significant progress. One development is to encapsulate plant-derived antioxidants such as tea polyphenols with capsules containing inorganic components. Thus, they can be blended with polyethylene granules and processed into active packaging film by industrial production methods such as melting, extrusion and blowing film. This research promotes the commercial application of active packaging incorporated with plant-derived antioxidants.

Selecting and Characterizing Tyrosinase Inhibitors from Atractylodis macrocephalae Rhizoma Based on Spectrum-Activity Relationship and Molecular Docking

Atractylodis macrocephalae Rhizoma (AMR) is a famous classical Chinese traditional medicine (CTM), which has been used as a tonic for many diseases for thousands of years. In ancient China, it was used as a supplementary food for beauty in the palace. In preliminary studies, the function of whitening skin and the significant inhibiting effect on tyrosinase (TYR) which is the reactive enzyme in the composition of melanin of AMR were discovered, and the relevant research was rarely reported. In this study, high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) along with partial least squares regression analysis (PLS) was applied to survey the coherence between the chemical constituents and the inhibiting activity of 11 batches of AMR on TYR activity. The results of PLS showed that the chromatographic peaks 11 (atractylenolide III) and 15 could be important effective ingredients of the inhibition TYR activity as ascertained by spectrum-activity relationships. Furthermore, TYR inhibitory activity of atractylenolide III was validated by in vitro test by β-arbutin served as a positive control drug. The results of the in vitro test and the molecular docking showed that atractylenolide III has high TYR inhibitory activity and could link to the residues in TYR catalytic pocket. Therefore, bioassay, molecular docking, and spectrum-activity relationships are appropriate for linking the quality of samples with pharmaceutical-related active ingredients. And our studying would lay a theoretical foundation for applying the water extracts of AMR in whitening cosmetics.

Screening of ninety herbal products of commercial interest as potential ingredients for phytocosmetics

Elastase and tyrosinase are important targets both for cosmetics and for dermatological disorders. In this work, ninety herbal products were tested as inhibitors of these two enzymes. Eleven extracts resulted strongly active. Four out of them (Camellia sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Rhodiola rosea, Vitis vinifera) inhibited both enzymes, five (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ribes nigrum, Rheum officinale, Salvia officinalis, Tilia platyphyllos) were active against tyrosinase only, and two (Ceterach officinarum and Cinnamomum zeylanicum) proved selectively active against elastase. The IC₅₀ ranged from 3.1 to 104.9 μg/mL and 19.3 to 164.3 μg/mL, against elastase and tyrosinase, respectively. The most active extracts resulted enriched in flavonoids (from 1.47 to 56.47 mg RE/g of extract) and phenolics (from 37.43 to 123.56 mg GAE/g of extract), indicating also an antioxidant potential. Finally, a positive correlation between enzymatic bioactivities and phenolic content was also established.

New Insights into the Exploitation of Vitis vinifera L. cv. Aglianico Leaf Extracts for Nutraceutical Purposes

The leaves of Vitis vinifera L. have been used for a long time in traditional medicine for the treatment of many ailments. Grape polyphenols, indeed, have been demonstrated to be able to defend against oxidative stress, responsible for various disorders such as cancer, diabetes and neurodegenerative diseases. The effects of different extraction techniques, Soxhlet (SOX), Accelerated Solvent (ASE 40, ASE 50) and Ultrasound Assisted Extraction (UAE) were studied in this work to evaluate their impact on the chemical profile and bioactive potential of Vitis vinifera L. (cv. Aglianico) leaf extracts. The phytochemical profile was investigated by HPLC-DAD and 9 phenolic compounds were identified and quantified in the extract. Moreover, the antioxidant, anticholinesterase and antityrosinase activities were evaluated. In detail, the total polyphenol content and antioxidant activity (2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl, Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacities and β-Carotene Bleaching assays) were evaluated and compared to assess the Relative Antioxidant Capacity Index (RACI). To test the inhibitory activity of extracts towards cholinesterases, acetylcholinesterase (AChE) and butyrylcholinesterase (BChE) inhibition assays were performed. SOX and ASE 50 have shown the highest value of RACI, 0.76 and 0.65, respectively. Regarding enzymatic inhibitory activity, ASE 50 (IC₅₀ = 107.16 ± 8.12 μg/mL) and SOX (IC₅₀ = 171.34 ± 12.12 μg/mL) extracts exhibited the highest AChE and BChE inhibitory activity, respectively, while UAE (IC₅₀ = 293.2 ± 25.6 μg/mL, followed by SOX (IC₅₀ = 302.5 ± 38.3 μg/mL) showed the highest tyrosinase inhibition value. Our results demonstrated for the first time that Aglianico leaves are important sources of phenols that could be used to prevent oxidative stress and be potentially helpful in diseases treatable with tyrosinase and cholinesterase inhibitors, like myasthenia gravis or Alzheimer’s.

Efficacy of a collagen hydrolysate and antioxidants-containing nutraceutical on metrics of skin health in Indian women

BACKGROUND

The skin's aging process involves a decreased biosynthesis of extracellular matrix proteins (predominantly collagen) compounded by damage from environmental and intrinsic stressors. The Indian population is susceptible to skin damage given its geography and increasing urbanization or a genetic disposition. Previous studies have investigated nutrients such as collagen peptides, vitamins and phytonutrient-rich botanical extracts for their individual benefits on skin.

AIMS

This study examined the collective effect of a proprietary blend of these nutrients (in Nutrova Collagen+Antioxidants; NCA) on skin parameters, which has not been previously studied, especially in an Indian context.

PATIENTS/METHODS

34 healthy, Indian women (mean age = 39.5 years) were given a placebo daily for 30 days to establish a baseline, followed by NCA for two intervals of 30 days. 3D image reconstruction allowed the analysis of skin topography and blemishes. Instrumental measurements also included skin firmness, elasticity, hydration, and transepidermal water loss. Clinical evaluation was used to grade blemishes, wrinkles and periorbital hyperpigmentation.

RESULTS

Based on instrumental evaluation, NCA significantly reduced wrinkle width, open pores, skin roughness, and the colour of hyperpigmented blemishes, while improving skin hydration, firmness and barrier function from baseline to Day 30 and Day 60. NCA also increased elasticity at Day 30. Clinical evaluation showed that periorbital hyperpigmentation and wrinkles reduced significantly.

CONCLUSION

NCA is effective for improving overall skin health in Indian women. These results show that targeted nutrient supplementation can improve skin health and further research over extended durations is merited.

Grape Cane Extracts as Multifunctional Rejuvenating Cosmetic Ingredient: Evaluation of Sirtuin Activity, Tyrosinase Inhibition and Bioavailability Potential

Grape canes are waste biomass of viticulture containing bioactive polyphenols valuable in cosmetics. Whereas several studies reported the cosmetic activities of E-resveratrol, only few described the potential of E-ε-viniferin, the second major constituent of grape cane extracts (GCE), and none of them investigated GCE as a natural blend of polyphenols for cosmetic applications. In this study, we considered the potential of GCE from polyphenol-rich grape varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients. HPLC analysis was performed to quantify major polyphenols in GCE i.e., catechin, epicatechin, E-resveratrol, E-piceatannol, ampelopsin A, E-ε-viniferin, hopeaphenol, isohopeaphenol, E-miyabenol C and E-vitisin B from selected cultivars. Skin whitening potential through tyrosinase inhibition assay and the activation capacity of cell longevity protein (SIRT1) of GCE were compared to pure E-resveratrol and E-ε-viniferin. Drug-likeness of GCE polyphenols were calculated, allowing the prediction of skin permeability and bioavailability. Finally, the present data enabled the consideration of GCE from polyphenol-rich varieties as multifunctional cosmetic ingredients in accordance with green chemistry practices.

A comprehensive review on tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is a multi-copper enzyme which is widely distributed in different organisms and plays an important role in the melanogenesis and enzymatic browning. Therefore, its inhibitors can be attractive in cosmetics and medicinal industries as depigmentation agents and also in food and agriculture industries as antibrowning compounds. For this purpose, many natural, semi-synthetic and synthetic inhibitors have been developed by different screening methods to date. This review has focused on the tyrosinase inhibitors discovered from all sources and biochemically characterised in the last four decades.

Polyphenol-Rich Extracts Obtained from Winemaking Waste Streams as Natural Ingredients with Cosmeceutical Potential

Phenolics present in grapes have been explored as cosmeceutical principles, due to their antioxidant activity and ability to inhibit enzymes relevant for skin ageing. The winemaking process generates large amounts of waste, and the recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their further incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity for wine producers and may contribute to a sustainable development of the sector. The extracts obtained from grape marc and wine lees, using solid-liquid (SL) extraction with and without microwave (MW) pretreatment of the raw material, were characterized in terms of antioxidant activity through chemical (ORAC/HOSC/HORAC) and cell-based (keratinocytes-HaCaT; fibroblasts-HFF) assays. Furthermore, their inhibitory capacity towards specific enzymes involved in skin ageing (elastase; MMP-1; tyrosinase) was evaluated. The total phenolic and anthocyanin contents were determined by colorimetric assays, and HPLC-DAD-MS/MS was performed to identify the main compounds. The MW pretreatment prior to conventional SL extraction led to overall better outcomes. The red wine lees extracts presented the highest phenolic content (3 to 6-fold higher than grape marc extracts) and exhibited the highest antioxidant capacity, being also the most effective inhibitors of elastase, MMP-1 and tyrosinase. The results support that winemaking waste streams are valuable sources of natural ingredients with the potential for cosmeceutical applications.

Human Skin Lightening Efficacy of Resveratrol and Its Analogs: From in Vitro Studies to Cosmetic Applications

Antioxidants are deemed useful in controlling oxidative stress associated with extrinsic skin aging and pigmentation disorders. Resveratrol is a polyphenol compound found in many edible plants such as Vitis vinifera, and its inhibitory effects on the catalytic activity, gene expression, and posttranslational modifications of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in the melanin biosynthetic pathway, provide a mechanistic basis for its antimelanogenic effects seen in melanocytic cells, three-dimensionally reconstituted skin models, and in vivo animal models. As a potent antioxidant and a modulator of nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2), and sirtuin 1, resveratrol can also regulate multiple signaling pathways associated with inflammation and premature aging. Recent clinical studies have supported the efficacy of resveratrol and its analogs, such as resveratryl triacetate (RTA) and resveratryl triglycolate (RTG), in human skin lightening and antiaging. These findings suggest that resveratrol and its analogs are potentially useful as skin lightening and antiaging agents in cosmetics.

Evaluation of Tyrosinase Inhibitory, Antioxidant, Antimicrobial, and Antiaging Activities of Magnolia officinalis Extracts after Aspergillus niger Fermentation

This study intended to improve physiological characteristics of Magnolia officinalis bark (MOB) extracts by Aspergillus niger fermentation. M. officinalis bark was extracted using distilled water, 95% ethanol, and methanol, and it was then fermented by A. niger. The physiological characteristics of the fermented extracts, namely, tyrosinase inhibitory activity, antioxidant activity, antibacterial activity, and anti-skin-aging activity, were evaluated and compared with those of unfermented extracts. To determine the safety of the fermented extracts, their cytotoxicity was analyzed by measuring the cell viability of CCD-966SK and human epidermal melanocytes (HEMn) after exposure. The fermented methanol extract exhibited the highest antityrosinase activity, total phenolic content, and antioxidant activity. The total phenolic content of the extracts fermented by A. niger was 3.52 times greater than that of the unfermented extracts. The optimal IC₅₀ values for tyrosinase inhibition and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) removal by the A. niger-fermented extracts were 30 and 12 μg/mL, respectively. The fermented methanol extracts inhibited skin-aging-related enzymes such as collagenase, elastase, MMP-1, and MMP-2. Compared with the unfermented extracts, the fermented extracts also contained greater antibacterial activity against tested stains including MRSA. These results could be attributed to an increase in the concentration of original active compounds and the biosynthesis of new compounds during fermentation. In cytotoxicity assays, the A. niger-fermented extracts were nontoxic to CCD-966SK cells, even at 500 μg/mL. Hence, in general, methanol-extracted M. officinalis fermented by A. niger for 72 h has the most active antioxidant, skincare, or antiaging compounds for healthy food or cosmetics applications.

Antioxidation and Melanogenesis Inhibition of Various Dendrobium tosaense Extracts

This study investigated the polyphenol content, antioxidant activity, and inhibition ability of mushroom tyrosinase and melanogenesis of Dendrobium tosaense (DT) extract. Ground DT was extracted using deionized water (W) or 50% ethanol (50E) at room temperature (RT) or 50 °C (50T) for 20 min. The 50T + 50E extract exhibited the highest total phenol content 47.0 ± 4.0 mg gallic acid equivalent/g DT extract, the highest level of 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) free-radical scavenging 66.0 ± 3.0 mg Trolox equivalent/g DT extract, and the highest reducing power 12.00 ± 0.50 mg vitamin C equivalent/g DT extract. The RT + W extract had the highest total flavonoid content 110.0 ± 3.0 mg quercetin equivalent/g DT extract. The RT + 50E extract had the lowest half maximal inhibitory concentration 1.30 ± 0.00 mg/mL for 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl free-radical scavenging, and the lowest half maximal inhibitory concentration 6.40 ± 0.30 mg/mL for mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity. DT extracts, especially RT + W and 50T + W, exhibited potent inhibitory effects on melanogenesis of B16/F10 cells. These results demonstrated the application potential of DT extract for skincare.

Kinetics Investigation on Mushroom Tyrosinase Inhibition of Proso Millet

Proso millet (Panicum miliaceum) is rich in nutritive components and is widely used as a human food, feed and forage for animals, and fuel. This study investigated the effect of a proso millet extract on the inhibition of tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanogenesis. High performance liquid chromatography analysis indicated that the proso millet extract contained phenolic tyrosinase inhibitors, such as syringic acid, p-coumaric acid, and ferulic acid. The extract had an IC50 for inhibition of tyrosinase activity of 14.02 mg/mL. A Lineweaver-Burk double reciprocal plot showed that the proso millet extract functioned as a mixed competitive and noncompetitive inhibitor. Proso millet has potential as a tyrosinase inhibitor that may have applications in the cosmetics industry.