Natural and Bioinspired Phenolic Compounds as Tyrosinase Inhibitors for the Treatment of Skin Hyperpigmentation: Recent Advances

A comparative study of extraction methods for recovery of bioactive components from brown algae Sargassum serratifolium

Species of Sargassum genus are known to be rich sources of bioactive compounds. However, there is a lack of studies comparing extraction methods for these bioactive components. This study aimed to compare the total phenolic contents, total antioxidant capacity, tyrosinase inhibitory effect, sargahydroquinoic acid (SHQA) and sargachromenol (SCM), two algal meroterpenoids, of Sargassum serratifolium extracts acquired by different extraction methods. The methods employed in this study included conventional solid-liquid extraction using methanol (SME), supercritical fluid extraction using CO2 with ethanol as a co-solvent (SC-CO2 + ethanol), and pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) at two temperatures (25 and 100 °C). PLE at 100 °C (PLE100) exhibited the highest total yield, total phenolic content, total antioxidant capacity and tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Notably, SME resulted in the highest recovery of both SHQA and SCM. Compared to SME, PLE100 exhibited a two-fold increase in antioxidant capacity but a minimal increase in phenolic content.

Functionalisation and behaviours of polysaccharides conjugated with phenolic compounds by oxidoreductase catalysis: A review

Polysaccharides have been extensively studied in recent decades. Their conjugation with phenolic compounds of natural origin has demonstrated high added value, not only enhancing certain inherent properties but also introducing new ones. Recently, a sustainable approach utilizing oxidoreductase enzymes (Oxredases) (laccases (Lac), tyrosinases (Tyr) and peroxidases (Per)) has been employed, and interesting progress has been made. This review aims to provide a comprehensive understanding of the various Oxredases employed and the reaction mechanisms involved in the grafting of phenolic compounds (PCs) onto polysaccharides (PSs). We provide a detailed analysis of these reaction mechanisms based on modified polymer structural analysis techniques and supported by model reactions. The impacts of different reaction parameters on the final products are thoroughly discussed. Additionally, the properties of conjugated PS-PC are extensively explored to provide an overview of their physicochemical and functional behaviours. A comparison of the PS-PC conjugates obtained via the Oxredase approach and other existing chemical- and radical-mediated approaches is also presented, emphasizing the benefits of this enzymatic pathway. Finally, a critical analysis is proposed to identify areas of improvement, aiming to further refine this environmentally friendly approach for conjugating PSs and PCs and its scalability for industrial applications.

Dendropanax morbifera Extracts for Cosmetic Applications: Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis

We have conducted a systematic review and meta-analysis to evaluate the cosmetic applications of Dendropanax morbifera extracts (DMEs). A total of 261 articles were screened; however, after eliminating inappropriate studies, only 16 individual studies were eligible. The comparative standardized mean difference (SMD) between the DME treatment and control groups was used to evaluate the cosmetic properties of DME, including its biocompatibility, whitening effects, and anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties. DME treatment exhibited positive results in controlling hyperpigmentation, including effective inhibition of the production of tyrosinase and melanin, with SMDs of 6.85 [4.27, 9.44] and 23.38 [12.94, 33.82], respectively. Moreover, the results confirmed the anti-inflammatory properties in terms of suppressing the expression of interleukin markers (ILs) (SMD = 5.22 [3.12, 7.33]) and reducing NO production (SMD = 6.92 [2.89, 10.96]). DME treatment also effectively inhibited bacteria growth, which causes skin disorders. According to the results, DMEs are shown to be highly biocompatibility, with excellent anti-hyperpigmentation, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties that contribute significantly to improving skin appearance. The findings provide strong evidence for further research into the in vivo effects of DMEs and their potential cosmetic applications, which could lead to clinical trials in the future.

Bio-Inspired Synthesis of Gold Nanoparticles Using Leaf Extract of Jamun and Research on Its Biomedical Potential

Background

Bio-based synthesis of metallic nanoparticles has garnered much attention in recent times owing to their non-toxic, environmentally friendly, and cost-effective nature.

Methods

In this study, gold nanoparticles (S4-GoNPs) were synthesized by a simple and environmentally friendly technique using an aqueous extract of jamun leaves (JLE) as an effective capping, stabilizer, and reducing agent. JLE was screened for the presence of phytochemicals followed by synthesis, characterization, and evaluation of their antibacterial, antidiabetic, antioxidant, and photocatalytic degradation potentials using standard established procedures.

Results

The phytochemical profile of JLE was found to be rich in flavonoids, tannins, terpenoid phenols, anthraquinones, and cardiac glycosides. Its GC-MS analysis revealed the presence of compounds majorly of them as the (1R)-2,6,6-Trimethylbicyclo[3.1.1]hept-2-ene (5.141%), 2(10)-pinene (4.119%), α-cyclopene (5.274%) α,α-muurolene (7.525%), naphthalene, 1,2,3,4,4a,5,6,8a-octahydro-7-methyl-4-methylene-1-(1-methylethyl)-(1.alpha.,4a.beta.,8a.alpha) (8.470%), delta-cadinene (23.246), α-guajene (3.451%), and gamma-muurolene (4.379%). The visual morphology and UV-Vis spectral surface plasmon resonance at 538 nm confirmed the successful synthesis of S4-GoNPs. The average particle size was determined as 120.5 nm with Pdi = 0.152, and -27.6 mV zeta potential. Using the Scherrer equation, the average crystallite size was calculated as 35.69 nm. S4-GoNPs displayed significant antidiabetic properties, with 40.67% of α-amylase and 91.33% of α-glucosidase inhibition activity. It also exhibited promising antioxidant potential in terms of the DPPH (91.56%) ABTS (76.59%) scavenging. It displayed 31.04% tyrosinase inhibition at 0.1 mg/mL. Moreover, it also demonstrated encouraging antibacterial effects with zones of inhibition ranging from 11.02 - 14.12 mm as compared to 10.55-16.24 mm by the reference streptomycin (at 0.01 mg/disc). In addition, S4-GoNPs also showed potential for the photocatalytic degradation of the industrial dye, methylene blue.

Conclusion

In conclusion, these results suggest the promising applicability of green-synthesized S4-GoNPs in various sectors, including the biomedical, cosmetic, food, and environmental waste management industries.

Investigating the inhibitory effects of carotenoids-fortified Helix aspersa slime on oxidative stress, collagenase and tyrosinase enzyme activities

BACKGROUND

The investigations of snail slime and its possible biological activities have been performed recently.

AIM

This study aimed to evaluate the properties of Helix aspersa snail slime (HAS), and carotenoids-fortified slime (HASC).

METHODS

Snails were fed with carrots for 10 days. Slime was collected and extracted using water. Saponins identification, antioxidant, collagenase, and tyrosinase enzyme inhibition activities, carotenoids, total phenols, and flavonoids content, were determined. UHPLC-MS/MS analysis was performed for phytochemical characterization.

RESULTS

Saponins were detected in the HAS extract only. However, HASC was shown to contain a higher carotenoid content than HAS (29.51 ± 0.4 vs. 18.11 ± 0.2 μg/g). similarly, total phenolic and flavonoid content were higher for the the HASC extract compared to the HAS (182.3 ± 5.2 vs. 150.28 ± 3.3 mg/g equivalent to gallic acid), and (77.62 ± 1.2 vs. 14.19 ± 0.9 mg/g equivalent to quercetin). As expected, the HASC extract exhibited higher antioxidant activity compared to the HAS, using DPPH and the ABTS assays (IC50 = 7.75 ± 0.14 vs. 20.1 ± 0.4 μg/mL), and (IC50 = 7.6 ± 0.26 vs. 19.57 ± 1.4 μg/mL). UHPLC-MS/MS analysis revealed the presence of several phytocomponents of which, hexadecanoic acid and ascorbic acid, were observed in the HASC extract. Furthermore, HASC extract exhibited superior inhibitory activity compared to HAS against collagenase and tyrosinase enzymes (IC50 = 8.4 ± 1.19 vs. 15.3 ± 1.12 μg/mL) and (IC50 = 30.1 ± 0.91 vs. 35 ± 1.3 μg/mL).

CONCLUSION

These findings highlight the potential of HASC as a valuable ingredient in various pharmaceutical applications, due to their content of various phenolic, antioxidants, carotenoids, hexadecanoic, and ascorbic acids. The latter is well known for its great cosmeceutical applications used for slowing the process of skin aging.

Design, Synthesis, and Anti-Melanogenic Activity of 2-Mercaptomethylbenzo[d]imidazole Derivatives Serving as Tyrosinase Inhibitors: An In Silico, In Vitro, and In Vivo Exploration

2-Mercaptomethylbenzo[d]imidazole (2-MMBI) derivatives were designed and synthesized as tyrosinase (TYR) chelators using 2-mercaptomethylimidazole scaffolds. Seven of the ten 2-MMBI derivatives exhibited stronger inhibition of mushroom TYR activity than kojic acid. Their ability to chelate copper ions was demonstrated through experiments using the copper chelator pyrocatechol violet and assays measuring TYR activity in the presence or absence of exogenous CuSO4. The inhibition mechanisms of derivatives 1, 3, 8, and 9, which showed excellent TYR inhibitory activity, were elucidated through kinetic studies and supported by the docking simulation results. Derivatives 3, 7, 8, and 10 significantly inhibited cellular TYR activity and melanin production in B16F10 cells in a dose-dependent manner, with stronger potency than kojic acid. Furthermore, in situ, derivatives 7 and 10 showed stronger inhibitory effects on B16F10 cell TYR activity than kojic acid. Six derivatives, including 8, showed highly potent depigmentation in zebrafish larvae, outpacing kojic acid even at 200-670 times lower concentrations. Additionally, all derivatives could scavenge for reactive oxygen species without causing cytotoxicity in epidermal cells. These results suggested that 2-MMBI derivatives are promising anti-melanogenic agents.

Potentialities of Tannase-Treated Green Tea Extract in Nutraceutical and Therapeutic Applications

Green tea has garnered widespread interest in the past decades due to its content of health-beneficial polyphenols and catechins, besides reportedly exhibiting activities for the prevention, and possibly treatment, of many modern-life-associated afflictions. Hence, the functional food potential of health-beneficial beverages such as green tea is widely and commercially promoted. Biotransformation of green tea extract using enzymes such as tannase ostensibly enhances its beneficial well-being properties and disease-preventing functionalities. The tannase-treated green tea catechins may exhibit enhanced, amongst others, antioxidant, anti-tumour, anti-wrinkle, anti-inflammatory, anti-obesity and anti-sarcopenia properties compared to native green tea extract. Nonetheless, the health benefits and therapeutic and toxicological effects associated with these compounds, before and after tannase treatment, present a scientific gap for detailed studies. Accordingly, the review surveys the literature from the late twentieth century until the year 2023 related to the aforementioned important aspects.

Evaluation of the skin whitening and antioxidant activity of Myracrodruon urundeuva extract (aroeira-do-sertão)

Myracrodruon urundeuva, popularly known as 'aroeira-do-sertão', a large tree, with a tall trunk. Belonging to the Anacardiaceae family, it occurs in the 'caatinga' and dry forests of Brazil, from Ceará to the states of Paraná and Mato Grosso do Sul. The present study aimed to analyse the whitening and antioxidant activities of the aqueous extract of the leaves of Myracrodruon urundeuva (AELMU). Inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, as well as its copper chelating capacity and antioxidant effect were evaluated. The AELMU (at 2000 µg/mL) showed excellent inhibitory action (83.76%) on tyrosinase by chelating the copper ion while kojic acid at the same concentration inhibited 97.81%. Moreover, the extract displayed important antioxidant activity (inhibited 76,46% of the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical - DPPH; 49,59% of thiobarbituric acid reactive substances and 51,07% of the hydroxyl radical). Thus, the extract under study is promising for use in cosmetics, given its multifactorial action.

Discovery of Indole-Thiourea Derivatives as Tyrosinase Inhibitors: Synthesis, Biological Evaluation, Kinetic Studies, and In Silico Analysis

Tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis, represents a crucial therapeutic target for hyperpigmentation disorders due to excessive melanin production. This study aimed to design and evaluate a series of indole-thiourea derivatives by conjugating thiosemicarbazones with strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity to indole. Among these derivatives, compound 4b demonstrated tyrosinase inhibitory activity with an IC50 of 5.9 ± 2.47 μM, outperforming kojic acid (IC50 = 16.4 ± 3.53 μM). Kinetic studies using Lineweaver-Burk plots confirmed competitive inhibition by compound 4b. Its favorable ADMET and drug-likeness properties make compound 4b a promising therapeutic candidate with a reduced risk of toxicity. Molecular docking revealed that the compounds bind strongly to mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) and human tyrosinase-related protein 1 (TYRP1), with compound 4b showing superior binding energies of -7.0 kcal/mol (mTYR) and -6.5 kcal/mol (TYRP1), surpassing both kojic acid and tropolone. Molecular dynamics simulations demonstrated the stability of the mTYR-4b complex with low RMSD and RMSF and consistent Rg and SASA values. Persistent strong hydrogen bonds with mTYR, along with favorable Gibbs free energy and MM/PBSA calculations (-19.37 kcal/mol), further support stable protein-ligand interactions. Overall, compound 4b demonstrated strong tyrosinase inhibition and favorable pharmacokinetics, highlighting its potential for treating pigmentary disorders.

Fungal Peptidomelanin: A Novel Biopolymer for the Chelation of Heavy Metals

Melanin is an amorphous, highly heterogeneous polymer found across all kingdoms of life. Although the properties of melanin can greatly vary, most forms are insoluble and strongly absorb light, appearing dark brown to black. Here, we describe a water-soluble form of melanin (peptidomelanin) secreted by the spores of Aspergillus niger (strain: melanoliber) during germination. Peptidomelanin is composed of an insoluble L-DOPA core polymer that is solubilized via short, copolymerized heterogeneous peptide chains forming a "corona" with a mean amino acid length of 2.6 ± 2.3. Based on in vitro experiments, we propose a biochemical copolymerization mechanism involving the hydroxylation of tyrosynylated peptides. Peptidomelanin is capable of chelating heavy metals such as lead, mercury, and uranium (as uranyl) in large quantities. Preliminary data indicates that peptidomelanin may have applications for the remediation of heavy metals in situ, including in agricultural settings.

Fast Screening of Tyrosinase Inhibitors in Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. by Ligand Fishing Based on Paper-Immobilized Tyrosinase

Coreopsis tinctoria Nutt. is an important medicinal plant in traditional Uyghur medicine. The skin-lightening potential of the flower has been recognized recently; however, the active compounds responsible for that are not clear. In this work, tyrosinase, a target protein for regulating melanin synthesis, was immobilized on the Whatman paper for the first time to screen skin-lightening compounds present in the flower. Quercetagetin-7-O-glucoside (1), marein (2), and okanin (3) were found to be the enzyme inhibitors. The IC50 values of quercetagetin-7-O-glucoside (1) and okanin (3) were 79.06 ± 1.08 μM and 30.25 ± 1.11 μM, respectively, which is smaller than 100.21 ± 0.11 μM of the positive control kojic acid. Enzyme kinetic analysis and molecular docking were carried out to investigate their inhibition mechanism. Although marein (2) showed a weak inhibition effect in vitro, it inhibited the intracellular tyrosinase activity and diminished melanin production in melanoma B16 cells as did the other two inhibitors. The paper-based ligand fishing method developed in this work makes it effective to quickly screen tyrosinase inhibitors from natural products. This is the first report on the tyrosinase inhibitory effect of those three compounds, showing the promising potential of Coreopsis tinctoria for the development of herbal skin-lightening products.

Preparation and stability investigation of ultrasound-assisted W/O/W multiple nanoemulsions co-loaded with hydrophobic curcumin and hydrophilic arbutin for tyrosinase inhibition

In the present, whitening products are most popular in the cosmetics market, and nanoemulsions are effective drug delivery systems through the skin. The objective of this study was to investigate multiple nanoemulsion formulations for lightning skin effects. The method of this study was the selection of active compounds based on synergistic tyrosinase inhibition activity, formulation preparation by low and high energy methods, physicochemical property determination, stability test, cell toxicity, and anti-melanogenesis in cell culture. From the results, it was found that tyrosinase inhibition with substrate l-tyrosine from the mixture of curcumin and alpha-arbutin gave the highest activity with an IC50 of 63.58 ± 4.99 μM, showed a synergistic effect at a CI value of 0.99, and selected these compounds to develop formulations by the low energy method. However, the most formulations prepared by this method were unstable and phase separated, while the high energy method gave the most formulations with good properties, which were selected for further investigation. The best formulation was 2DS which showed internal droplet morphology in the range of nanometers under a TEM microscope. For 3 months stability test, the formulations had no phase separation and gave the slightly changed values of particle size, polydispersity index (PDI), zeta potentials, and pH values. In addition, multiple nanoemulsions also enhanced the stability of active compounds, with the highest percentage of remaining content of curcumin and arbutin at 94.69 and 90.45 %, respectively at 4 °C for 3 months. In a cell culture test on B16F10, 2DS at 0.05 g/ml gave no cell cytotoxicity and anti-melanogenesis at 57.75 ± 5.74 %, the same potency as kojic acid at a concentration of 20 μg/ml. Therefore, this study will be useful to prepare multiple nanoemulsions for further development into novel health care products.

From by-products to new application opportunities: the enhancement of the leaves deriving from the fruit plants for new potential healthy products

In the last decades, the world population and demand for any kind of product have grown exponentially. The rhythm of production to satisfy the request of the population has become unsustainable and the concept of the linear economy, introduced after the Industrial Revolution, has been replaced by a new economic approach, the circular economy. In this new economic model, the concept of "the end of life" is substituted by the concept of restoration, providing a new life to many industrial wastes. Leaves are a by-product of several agricultural cultivations. In recent years, the scientific interest regarding leaf biochemical composition grew, recording that plant leaves may be considered an alternative source of bioactive substances. Plant leaves' main bioactive compounds are similar to those in fruits, i.e., phenolic acids and esters, flavonols, anthocyanins, and procyanidins. Bioactive compounds can positively influence human health; in fact, it is no coincidence that the leaves were used by our ancestors as a natural remedy for various pathological conditions. Therefore, leaves can be exploited to manufacture many products in food (e.g., being incorporated in food formulations as natural antioxidants, or used to create edible coatings or films for food packaging), cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries (e.g., promising ingredients in anti-aging cosmetics such as oils, serums, dermatological creams, bath gels, and other products). This review focuses on the leaves' main bioactive compounds and their beneficial health effects, indicating their applications until today to enhance them as a harvesting by-product and highlight their possible reuse for new potential healthy products.

Phytonano silver for cosmetic formulation- synthesis, characterization, and assessment of antimicrobial and antityrosinase potential

Novel formulations of silver nanoparticles remain exciting if it is applicable for cosmetic purposes. This study proposes a value-added brand-new nanomaterial for improving skin complexion by inhibiting melanin development. This work aims to develop cost effective, efficient, natural silver nanoparticles phytomediated by aqueous extract of leaf sheath scales of Cocos nucifera (Cn-AgNPs) having potential as tyrosinase inhibitors hindering melanin synthesis. The formation of Cn-AgNPs was assessed spectrophotometrically and confirmed by the sharp SPR spectrum at 425 nm. The chemical composition profiling was characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The morphology was confirmed by Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FESEM) and the thermal stability was assessed by Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Pharmacological application studies supported the materialization of Cn-AgNPs with significant antityrosinase potential and considerably improved antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Cn-AgNPs showed potential antibacterial effects against gram-positive and negative strains, including prominent infectious agents of the skin. Antioxidant capacity was confirmed with an IC50 of 57.8 μg/mL by DPPH radical scavenging assay. Furthermore, in vitro melanin content determination was performed using SK-MEL cells. Cell line studies proved that Cn-AgNPs decrease the melanin content of cells. The IC50 value obtained was 84.82 μg/mL. Hence Cn-AgNPs is proposed to be acting as a whitening agent through lessening cellular melanin content and as a significant inhibitor of tyrosinase activity. The antioxidant properties and antibacterial effects can contribute to skin rejuvenation and can prevent skin infections as well. This evidence proposes the development of a new nanostructured pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulation from Cocos nucifera leaf sheath scales.

Pulp or Peel? Comparative Analysis of the Phytochemical Content and Selected Cosmetic-Related Properties of Annona cherimola L., Diospyros kaki Thumb., Cydonia oblonga Mill. and Fortunella margarita Swingle Pulp and Peel Extracts

Fruit peels might be a valuable source of active ingredients for cosmetics, leading to more sustainable usage of plant by-products. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical content and selected biological properties of hydroglycolic extracts from peels and pulps of Annona cherimola, Diospyros kaki, Cydonia oblonga, and Fortunella margarita as potential cosmetic ingredients. Peel and pulp extracts were compared for their antiradical activity (using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays), skin-lightening potential (tyrosinase inhibitory assay), sun protection factor (SPF), and cytotoxicity toward human fibroblast, keratinocyte, and melanoma cell lines. The total content of polyphenols and/or flavonoids was significantly higher in peel than in pulp extracts, and the composition of particular active compounds was also markedly different. The HPLC-MS fingerprinting revealed the presence of catechin, epicatechin and rutoside in the peel of D. kaki, whereas kaempferol glucoside and procyanidin A were present only in the pulp. In A. cherimola, catechin, epicatechin and rutoside were identified only in the peel of the fruit, whereas procyanidins were traced only in the pulp extracts. Quercetin and luteolinidin were found to be characteristic compounds of F. margarita peel extract. Naringenin and hesperidin were found only in the pulp of F. margarita. The most significant compositional variety between the peel and pulp extracts was observed for C. oblonga: Peel extracts contained a higher number of active components (e.g., vicenin-2, kaempferol rutinoside, or kaempferol galactoside) than pulp extract. The radical scavenging potential of peel extracts was higher than of the pulp extracts. D. kaki and F. margarita peel and pulp extracts inhibited mushroom and murine tyrosinases at comparable levels. The C. oblonga pulp extract was a more potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor than the peel extract. Peel extract of A. cherimola inhibited mushroom tyrosinase but activated the murine enzyme. F. margarita pulp and peel extracts showed the highest in vitro SPF. A. cherimola, D. kaki, and F. margarita extracts were not cytotoxic for fibroblasts and keratinocytes up to a concentration of 2% (v/v) and the peel extracts were cytotoxic for A375 melanoma cells. To summarize, peel extracts from all analyzed fruit showed comparable or better cosmetic-related properties than pulp extracts and might be considered multifunctional active ingredients of skin lightening, anti-aging, and protective cosmetics.

Centaurea mersinensis phytochemical composition and multi-dimensional bioactivity properties supported by molecular modeling

Various studies conducted on Centaurea species indicate that the relevant plant is good source of bioactive phytochemicals. In this study, in vitro studies were used to determine bioactivity properties of methanol extract of Centaurea mersinensis - endemic species in Turkey - on extensive basis. Furthermore, the interaction of target molecules, identified for breast cancer and phytochemicals in the extract, was investigated via in silico analyses to support findings received in vitro. Scutellarin, quercimeritrin, chlorogenic acid and baicalin were primary phytochemicals in the extract. Methanol extract and scutellarin had higher cytotoxic effects against MCF-7 (IC50=22.17 µg/mL, and IC50=8.25 µM, respectively), compared to other breast cancer cell lines (MDA-MB-231, SKBR-3). The extract had strong antioxidant properties and inhibited target enzymes, especially α-amylase (371.69 mg AKE/g extract). The results of molecular docking indicate that main compounds of extract show high-strength bonding to the c-Kit tyrosine among target molecules identified in breast cancer, compared to other target molecules (MMP-2, MMP-9, VEGFR2 kinase, Aurora-A kinase, HER2). The tyrosinase kinase (1T46)-Scutellarin complex showed considerable stability in 150 ns simulation as per MD findings, and it was coherent with optimal docking findings. Docking findings and HOMO-LUMO analysis results corresponds with in vitro experiments. Medicinal properties of phytochemicals, which was determined to be suitable for oral use along with ADMET, were found to be within normal limits except for their polarity properties. In conclusion, in vitro and in silico studies indicated that the relevant plant yields promising results regarding its potential to develop novel and effective medicational products.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

6'-O-Caffeoylarbutin from Quezui Tea: A Highly Effective and Safe Tyrosinase Inhibitor

Tyrosinase is vital in fruit and vegetable browning and melanin synthesis, crucial for food preservation and pharmaceuticals. We investigated 6'-O-caffeoylarbutin's inhibition, safety, and preservation on tyrosinase. Using HPLC, we analyzed its effect on mushroom tyrosinase and confirmed reversible competitive inhibition. UV_vis and fluorescence spectroscopy revealed a stable complex formation with specific binding, causing enzyme conformational changes. Molecular docking and simulations highlighted strong binding, enabled by hydrogen bonds and hydrophobic interactions. Cellular tests showed growth reduction of A375 cells with mild HaCaT cell toxicity, indicating favorable safety. Animal experiments demonstrated slight toxicity within safe doses. Preservation trials on apple juice showcased 6'-O-caffeoylarbutin's potential in reducing browning. In essence, this study reveals intricate mechanisms and applications of 6'-O-caffeoylarbutin as an effective tyrosinase inhibitor, emphasizing its importance in food preservation and pharmaceuticals. Our research enhances understanding in this field, laying a solid foundation for future exploration.

Valorization of biomass polyphenols as potential tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinases (TYRs; EC 1.14.18.1) catalyze two sequential oxidative reactions of the melanin biosynthesis pathway and play an important role in mammalian pigmentation and enzymatic browning of fruit and vegetables. Inhibition of TYR activity is therefore an attractive target for new drugs and/or food ingredients. In addition, increasing evidence suggests that TYR regulation could be a novel target for treatments of cancer and Parkinson's disease. Biomasses, notably industrial byproducts and biowaste, are good sustainable sources of phytochemicals that may be valorized into bioactive compounds including TYR inhibitors. This review presents potential applications of biomass-derived polyphenols targeting TYR inhibition. Insights into structure-activity relationships of several polyphenols and their glycosides are highlighted. Finally, some remarks and perspectives on research into new TYR inhibitors from biomass waste are provided.

Pickering emulsions stabilized by chitosan-flaxseed gum-hyaluronic acid nanoparticles for controlled topical release of ferulic acid

Chitosan (CS) based nanoparticles (NPs) were fabricated via an ionic gelation reaction modified by flaxseed gum (FG) or sodium tripolyphosphate (STPP). The average particle size, morphology, interfacial tension, and wettability of NPs were characterized. The particle size of CS-STPP-HA (hyaluronic acid)-FA (ferulic acid) NPs and CS-FG-HA-FA NPs was 400.8 nm and 262.4 nm, respectively under the optimized conditions of CS/STPP = 5:1 (w/w) or CS/FG = 1:1 (v/v) with HA concentration of 0.25 mg/mL and FA dosage of 25 μM. FG acted as a good alternative for STPP to form particles with CS in stabilizing Pickering emulsion with an internal diacylglycerol (DAG) phase of 50-80 % (v/v). The complex nanoparticles had high surface activity and contact angle close to 90 °C, being able to tightly packed at the droplet surface. The emulsions had high thermal, ionic and oxidative stability. With the aid of moisturizing polysaccharides and DAG oil, the emulsions had a good sustained-release ability for FA with deeper penetration and retention into the dermis of the skin. Thus, FG and HA-based NPs serve as green vehicles for the fabrication of novel Pickering emulsions and possess great potential to be applied as a delivery system for lipophilic active agents in functional food and cosmetic products.

Development of kojic acid loaded collagen-chitosan nanoparticle as skin lightener product: in vitro and in vivo assessment

In the present study, an ionic gelation and ultrasonic approach was performed to produce kojic acid (KA) loaded chitosan(CS)/collagen(CN) nanoparticle(NP) (CSCN-NP) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and anti-pigmentation effect. To optimize the CSCN-NP the effect of the amount of CN was investigated. The results showed that increasing CN from 0 to 500 mg increased the mean particle size and entrapment efficiency of KA-CSCN-NP from 266.07 ± 9.30 nm to 404.23 ± 9.44 nm and 17.37 ± 2.06% to 82.34 ± 2.16%, respectively. Differential scanning calorimetry confirmed the amorphous form of KA in CSCN-NP, while scanning electron microscopy revealed that the nanoparticles were spherical. There was no chemical interaction between KA and the other components base on attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The skin permeability test showed that KA-CSCN-NP gel delivered more KA to the dermal layers (29.16 ± 1.67% or 537.26 ± 537.26 μg/cm2) and receiver compartment (15.04 ± 1.47% or 277.15 ± 27.22 μg/cm2) compared to KA plain gel. In vitro cytotoxicity assay demonstrated that the improved KA-CSCN-NP was non-toxic. Dermal irritating test on Wistar rats showed that the KA gel was non-irritating. Furthermore, KA-CSCN-NP was found to inhibit melanin formation to a greater extent than free KA and significantly inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation (94.80 ± 2.41%) compared to pure kojic acid solution (75.28 ± 3.22%). The observations of this study revealed that the produced KA-CSCN-NP might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for KA dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the management of hyper-melanogenesis problems.

Tripeptides conjugated with thiosemicarbazones: new inhibitors of tyrosinase for cosmeceutical use

The development of skin-care products is recently growing. Cosmetic formulas containing active ingredients with proven efficacy, namely cosmeceuticals, are based on various compounds, including peptides. Different whitening agents featuring anti-tyrosinase activity have been applied in the cosmeceutical field. Despite their availability, their applicability is often limited due to several drawbacks including toxicity, lack of stability, and other factors. In this work, we present the inhibitory effect on diphenolase activity of thiosemicarbazone (TSC)-peptide conjugates. Tripeptides FFY, FWY, and FYY were conjugated with three TSCs bearing one or two aromatic rings via amide bond formation in a solid phase. Compounds were then examined as tyrosinase and melanogenesis inhibitors in murine melanoma B16F0 cell line, followed by the cytotoxicity assays of these cells. In silico investigations explained the differences in the activity, observed among tested compounds. Mushroom tyrosinase was inhibited by TSC1-conjugates at micromolar level, with IC₅₀ lower than this for kojic acid, a widely used reference compound. Up to now, this is the first report regarding thiosemicarbazones conjugated with tripeptides, synthesised for the purpose of tyrosinase inhibition.

Polyphenols and Their Impact on Human Health

Given their potent antioxidant and biological properties [...].

Antioxidant activity, anti-tyrosinase activity, molecular docking studies, and molecular dynamic simulation of active compounds found in nipa palm vinegar

Tyrosinase is a key enzyme in melanogenesis and its inhibitors have become increasingly because of their potential activity as hypopigmenting agents which have less side effects. Nipa palm vinegar is an aqueous product that is normally used as a food supplement. The aim of this study was to study the determination of antioxidant activity and tyrosinase inhibitory activities of aqueous extract of original nipa palm vinegar (AE O-NPV), nipa palm vinegar powder (NPV-P) and aqueous extract of nipa palm vinegar powder (AE NPV-P) were examined. Nipa palm vinegars were evaluated the phenolic and flavonoid content, and the active compounds which were submitted to molecular docking and molecular dynamic simulation, chemoinformatics, rule of five, skin absorption and toxicity. The highest phenolic and flavonoid contents in the AE O-NPV were 2.36 ± 0.23 mg gallic acid equivalents/g extract and 5.11 ± 0.59 mg quercetin equivalents/g, and the highest ABTS radical cation scavenging activity was also found. The AE O-NPV, NPV-P and AE NPV-P showed anti-mushroom tyrosinase activity. The HPLC analysis showed that there were vanillic acid and three flavonoids (catechin, rutin and quercetin). The molecular docking study revealed that the binding of the vanillic acid and three flavonoids occurred in the active site residues (histidine and other amino acids). Moreover, the number of hydrogen bond acceptors/donors, solubility, polar surface area and bioavailability score of the vanillic acid and three flavonoids were acceptable compared to Lipinski's Rule of Five. The molecular dynamic simulation showed that vanillic acid interacts with HIS284 through π-π stacking hydrophobic interactions and forms a metal-acceptor interaction with the copper molecule at the tyrosinase active site. All compounds revealed good skin permeability and nontoxicity. Nipa palm vinegar could be a promising source of a new ingredient for tyrosinase inhibition for cosmetics or pharmaceutical products.

Emergent properties of melanin-inspired peptide/RNA condensates

Most biocatalytic processes in eukaryotic cells are regulated by subcellular microenvironments such as membrane-bound or membraneless organelles. These natural compartmentalization systems have inspired the design of synthetic compartments composed of a variety of building blocks. Recently, the emerging field of liquid-liquid phase separation has facilitated the design of biomolecular condensates composed of proteins and nucleic acids, with controllable properties including polarity, diffusivity, surface tension, and encapsulation efficiency. However, utilizing phase-separated condensates as optical sensors has not yet been attempted. Here, we were inspired by the biosynthesis of melanin pigments, a key biocatalytic process that is regulated by compartmentalization in organelles, to design minimalistic biomolecular condensates with emergent optical properties. Melanins are ubiquitous pigment materials with a range of functionalities including photoprotection, coloration, and free radical scavenging activity. Their biosynthesis in the confined melanosomes involves oxidation-polymerization of tyrosine (Tyr), catalyzed by the enzyme tyrosinase. We have now developed condensates that are formed by an interaction between a Tyr-containing peptide and RNA and can serve as both microreactors and substrates for tyrosinase. Importantly, partitioning of Tyr into the condensates and subsequent oxidation-polymerization gives rise to unique optical properties including far-red fluorescence. We now demonstrate that individual condensates can serve as sensors to detect tyrosinase activity, with a limit of detection similar to that of synthetic fluorescent probes. This approach opens opportunities to utilize designer biomolecular condensates as diagnostic tools for various disorders involving abnormal enzymatic activity.

Eco-friendly preparation, characterization, evaluation of anti-melanogenesis/antioxidant effect and in vitro/in vivo safety profile of kojic acid loaded niosome as skin lightener preparation

In the current study, an ultrasonic approach (as green method) was utilized to prepared kojic acid niosome (kojisome) which aimed to increase the dermal delivery and improving anti-melanogenesis properties. The study's findings demonstrated that increasing cholesterol enhanced the mean particle size from 68.333 ± 5.686 nm to 325.000 ± 15.099 nm and entrapment efficiency 0% to 39.341 ± 4.126% of the kojisome. Cholesterol may enhance the number and rigidity of bilayers that induced a size enhancement and entrapment efficiency. The skin permeability test revealed that kojisome gel had more kojic acid in dermal layers (437.563 ± 29.857 μg/cm2 or 16.624 ± 1.379%) than kojic acid plain gel (161.290 ± 14.812 μg/cm2 or 6.128 ± 0.672%). The niosome's lipophilicity allowed for gradual penetration, possibly due to better contact with the skin layers. Also, the extended-release behavior of improved kojisome exhibited high safety profile and low side effect in In vitro cytotoxicity assay, dermal irritation test, and Histo-pathological evaluation. Furthermore, optimum kojisome inhibited melanin formation (53.093 ± 2.985% at 1000 µM) higher than free kojic acid (62.383 ± 1.958%) significantly (p < 0.05). In addition, Kojisome 6 inhibited L-dopa auto-oxidation greater extent (94.806 ± 2.411%) than pure kojic acid solution (72.953 ± 2.728%). Kojisome by delivering and targeting large amount of kojic acid on specific site causes high efficacy in inhibition of melanin synthesis. The observations of this study revealed that the produced kojisome might be used as a potential nano-vehicle for kojic acid dermal administration, thereby opening up innovative options for the treatment of hyperpigmentation problems.

TIPred: a novel stacked ensemble approach for the accelerated discovery of tyrosinase inhibitory peptides

BACKGROUND

Tyrosinase is an enzyme involved in melanin production in the skin. Several hyperpigmentation disorders involve the overproduction of melanin and instability of tyrosinase activity resulting in darker, discolored patches on the skin. Therefore, discovering tyrosinase inhibitory peptides (TIPs) is of great significance for basic research and clinical treatments. However, the identification of TIPs using experimental methods is generally cost-ineffective and time-consuming.

RESULTS

Herein, a stacked ensemble learning approach, called TIPred, is proposed for the accurate and quick identification of TIPs by using sequence information. TIPred explored a comprehensive set of various baseline models derived from well-known machine learning (ML) algorithms and heterogeneous feature encoding schemes from multiple perspectives, such as chemical structure properties, physicochemical properties, and composition information. Subsequently, 130 baseline models were trained and optimized to create new probabilistic features. Finally, the feature selection approach was utilized to determine the optimal feature vector for developing TIPred. Both tenfold cross-validation and independent test methods were employed to assess the predictive capability of TIPred by using the stacking strategy. Experimental results showed that TIPred significantly outperformed the state-of-the-art method in terms of the independent test, with an accuracy of 0.923, MCC of 0.757 and an AUC of 0.977.

CONCLUSIONS

The proposed TIPred approach could be a valuable tool for rapidly discovering novel TIPs and effectively identifying potential TIP candidates for follow-up experimental validation. Moreover, an online webserver of TIPred is publicly available at http://pmlabstack.pythonanywhere.com/TIPred .

Potent Antioxidant and Anti-Tyrosinase Activity of Butein and Homobutein Probed by Molecular Kinetic and Mechanistic Studies

Butein (BU) and homobutein (HB) are bioactive polyhydroxylated chalcones widespread in dietary plants, whose antioxidant properties require mechanistic definition. They were investigated by inhibited autoxidation kinetic studies of methyl linoleate in Triton™ X-100 micelles at pH 7.4, 37 °C. Butein had kinh = (3.0 ± 0.9) × 104 M-1s-1 showing a chain-breaking mechanism with higher antioxidant activity than reference α-tocopherol (kinh = (2.2 ± 0.6) × 104 M-1s-1), particularly concerning the stoichiometry or peroxyl radical trapping n = 3.7 ± 1.1 vs. 2.0 for tocopherol. Homobutein had kinh = (2.8 ± 0.9) × 103 M-1s-1, pairing the relative BDEOH measured by radical equilibration EPR as 78.4 ± 0.2 kcal/mol for BU and estimated as 82.6 kcal/mol for HB. The inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase (mTYR) by HB and BU was also investigated. BU gives a reversible uncompetitive inhibition of monophenolase reaction with KI' = 9.95 ± 2.69 µM and mixed-type diphenolase inhibition with KI = 3.30 ± 0.75 µM and KI' = 18.75 ± 5.15 µM, while HB was nearly competitive toward both mono- and diphenolase with respective KI of 2.76 ± 0.70 µM and 2.50 ± 1.56 µM. IC50 values (monophenolase/diphenolase at 1 mM substrate) were 10.88 ± 2.19 µM/15.20 ± 1.25 µM, 14.78 ± 1.05 µM/12.36 ± 2.00 µM, and 33.14 ± 5.03 µM/18.27 ± 3.42 µM, respectively, for BU, HB, and reference kojic acid. Molecular docking studies confirmed the mechanism. Results indicate very potent antioxidant activity for BU and potent anti-tyrosinase activity for both chalcones, which is discussed in relation to bioactivity toward protection from skin disorders and food oxidative spoilage.

Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Postbiotics are defined as a "preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host." They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells-free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL-1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL-1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL-1 , and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL-1 ). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL-1 . In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.

In vitro inhibitory effects on free radicals, pigmentation, and skin cancer cell proliferation from Dendrobium hybrid extract: A new plant source of active compounds

Orchidaceae are diverse plants whose bioactive compounds have various biological activities. New hybrids of Dendrobium have been generated to gain characteristics shared with their ancestors. Dendrobium Pearl Vera (designated as DH) is derived from parents used for dermatological treatments and cosmetics. However, the phytoconstituents and biological properties of DH have not been reported. The current study investigated extracts from DH plants using four solvents (water, methanol, ethanol, or 2-propanol). The propanolic extract (DH-P) contained the highest phenolic and flavonoid contents, along with a high scavenging performance for free radicals. In total, 25 tentative constituents in the DH-P matrix were identified, consisting of amino acids, nucleotides, and three types of secondary metabolites: furan, phenolics, and alkaloids. The DH-P inhibited human tyrosinase in vitro in a concentration-dependent manner of the phenolic content. Furthermore, there was no significant difference between DH-P with 10 μg/ml phenolic content and 0.75 mM kojic acid (a commercial whitening agent) on the inhibition of human tyrosinase. Incubation with DH-P containing at least 15 μg/ml phenolic content greatly inhibited the proliferation of human melanoma; however, the cell viability was not affected by the phenolic content at 5 μg/ml or less. The half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC50) of the phenolic content in DH-P on melanoma viability was 12.90 ± 1.04 μg/ml. Melanin production in vivo by human melanoma incubated with 5 μg/ml phenolic content in DH-P was reduced significantly, compared to 2.5 μg/ml phenolic content in DH-P, 100 μg/ml arbutin, and in control. The identified components, including 5-hydroxymethyl-2-furaldehyde, salicylic acid, nicotinamide, acetophenone, cytidine, adenosine, proline, or valine, have been reported to be associated with depigmentation, antioxidant, and anticancer. This research revealed, for the first time, the tentative phytoconstituents of Dendrobium Pearl Vera and their biological activities, thus demonstrating the potential use of DH-P in dermal applications.

Towards a better understanding of commonly used medicinal plants from Turkiye: Detailed phytochemical screening and biological activity studies of two Teucrium L. species with in vitro and in silico approach

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

Since ancient times, Teucrium L. species have been among the most commonly used traditional medicinal plants mainly in the Mediterranean region. From tackling gastrointestinal problems to maintaining the healthy functioning of endocrine glands, and from treating malaria to severe dermatological disorders, Teucrium species are known to have extensive therapeutic applications. Teucrium polium L. and Teucrium parviflorum Schreb. are the two members of the genus that have been used in Turkish folk medicine for various medicinal purposes.

AIM OF THE STUDY

To determine the phytochemical compositions of the essential oils and ethanol extracts of Teucrium polium and Teucrium parviflorum collected from different locations in Turkiye along with the investigation of in vitro antioxidant, anticancer, antimicrobial activities, and both in vitro and in silico enzyme inhibitory activities of the extracts.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Ethanol extracts of Teucrium polium aerial parts and roots, and aerial parts of Teucrium parviflorum were prepared. Volatile profiling of the essential oils by GC-MS, phytochemical profiling of the ethanol extracts by LC-HRMS, antioxidant activity by DPPH radical scavenging, ABTS cation radical scavenging, CUPRAC, and metal chelating activity assays, anticholinesterase, antityrosinase, antiurease, activities by different enzyme inhibitory activity assays, anticancer activity by SRB cell viability assay, and antimicrobial activity against a standard panel of bacteria and fungi by the microbroth dilution technique. Molecular docking studies were performed by Autodock Vina (Ver. 1.1.2).

RESULTS

The studied extracts were found to be quite rich in various biologically important volatile and phenolic compounds. (-)-Epigallocatechin gallate, which is a molecule renowned for having great therapeutic potential, was the major compound of all extracts. Teucrium polium aerial parts extract was revealed as a great source for naringenin with 16327 ± 685.23 μg/g extract. All extracts exerted significant antioxidant activity by different methods. All extracts demonstrated antibutrylcholinesterase, antityrosinase, and antiurease activities by in vitro and in silico assays. Teucrium polium roots extract stood out with remarkable tyrosinase and urease inhibitory and cytotoxic activities.

CONCLUSION

The obtained results from this multi-disciplinary study proves that the traditional use of these two Teucrium species is justified, and the mechanisms behind are enlightened.

Skin Pigmentation Types, Causes and Treatment-A Review

Human skin pigmentation and melanin synthesis are incredibly variable, and are impacted by genetics, UV exposure, and some drugs. Patients' physical appearance, psychological health, and social functioning are all impacted by a sizable number of skin conditions that cause pigmentary abnormalities. Hyperpigmentation, where pigment appears to overflow, and hypopigmentation, where pigment is reduced, are the two major classifications of skin pigmentation. Albinism, melasma, vitiligo, Addison's disease, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, which can be brought on by eczema, acne vulgaris, and drug interactions, are the most common skin pigmentation disorders in clinical practice. Anti-inflammatory medications, antioxidants, and medications that inhibit tyrosinase, which prevents the production of melanin, are all possible treatments for pigmentation problems. Skin pigmentation can be treated orally and topically with medications, herbal remedies, and cosmetic products, but a doctor should always be consulted before beginning any new medicine or treatment plan. This review article explores the numerous types of pigmentation problems, their causes, and treatments, as well as the 25 plants, 4 marine species, and 17 topical and oral medications now on the market that have been clinically tested to treat skin diseases.

In silico and in vitro studies of novel derivatives of tyrosol and raspberry ketone as the mushroom tyrosinase inhibitors

Tyrosinase is the key enzyme for melanin biosynthesis. Overproduction and deposition of this pigment cause different problems in various industries including agriculture and food. Finding safe tyrosinase inhibitors thus attracts great research interest. The goal of this study is evaluation of inhibitory potencies of some novel synthetic derivatives of tyrosol and raspberry ketone on diphenolase activity of mushroom tyrosinase. The ligands inhibited enzyme activity and compound 4-(2-(4-(hydroxymethyl)-2-methyl-1,3-dioxolan-2-yl)ethyl)phenol (1d) exhibited the most inhibitory potency (77% inhibition, IC₅₀ = 0.32 µmol L^-1) via the mixed inhibition mode. This compound was also safe according to the results of in vitro analyses. The enzyme-ligands interactions were theoretically and experimentally investigated using molecular docking and fluorescence quenching approaches, respectively. Modes of quenching and related parameters were also determined and molecular docking data showed that the ligands bind to important sites of the enzyme. These compounds, especially 1d, can be suggested as efficient candidates for further investigations.

Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein (HCP) Extracted from Pearls Antagonizes both ET-1 and α-MSH for Skin Whitening

Pearl powder is a famous traditional Chinese medicine that has a long history in treating palpitations, insomnia, convulsions, epilepsy, ulcers, and skin lightining. Recently, several studies have demonstrated the effects of pearl extracts on protection of ultraviolet A (UVA) induced irritation on human skin fibroblasts and inhibition of melanin genesis on B16F10 mouse melanoma cells. To further explore the effect we focused on the whitening efficacy of pearl hydrolyzed conchiolin protein (HCP) on human melanoma MNT-1 cells under the irritation of alpha-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) or endothelin 1 (ET-1) to evaluate the intracellular tyrosinase and melanin contents, as well as the expression levels of tyrosinase (TYR), tyrosinase related protein 1 (TRP-1), and dopachrome tautomerase (DCT) genes and related proteins. We found that HCP could decrease the intracellular melanin content by reducing the activity of intracellular tyrosinase and inhibiting the expression of TYR, TRP-1, DCT genes and proteins. At the same time, the effect of HCP on melanosome transfer effect was also investigated in the co-culture system of immortalized human keratinocyte HaCaT cells with MNT-1. The result indicated that HCP could promote the transfer of melanosomes in MNT-1 melanocytes to HaCaT cells, which might accelerate the skin whitening process by quickly transferring and metabolizing melanosomes during keratinocyte differentiation. Further study is needed to explore the mechanism of melanosome transfer with depigmentation.

Combinatorial metabolic engineering enables high yield production of α-arbutin from sucrose by biocatalysis

α-Arbutin has been widely used as a skin-whitening ingredient. Previously, we successfully produced α-arbutin via whole-cell biocatalysis and found that the conversion rate of sucrose to α-arbutin was low (~45%). To overcome this issue, herein, we knocked out the genes of enzymes related to the sucrose hydrolysis, including sacB, sacC, levB, and sacA. The sucrose consumption was reduced by 17.4% in 24 h, and the sucrose conversion rate was increased to 51.5%. Furthermore, we developed an inducible protein degradation system with Lon protease isolated from Mesoplasma florum (MfLon) and proteolytic tag to control the PfkA activity, so that more fructose-6-phosphate (F6P) can be converted into glucose-1-phosphate (Glc1P) for α-arbutin synthesis, which can reduce the addition of sucrose and increase the sucrose conversion efficiency. Finally, the pathway of F6P to Glc1P was enhanced by integrating another copy of glucose 6-phosphate isomerase (Pgi) and phosphoglucomutase (PgcA); a high α-arbutin titer (~120 g/L) was obtained. The sucrose conversion rate was increased to 60.4% (mol/mol). In this study, the substrate utilization rate was boosted due to the attenuation of its hydrolysis and the assistance of the intracellular enzymes that converted the side product back into the substrate for α-arbutin synthesis. This strategy provides a new idea for the whole-cell biocatalytic synthesis of other products using sucrose as substrate, especially valuable glycosides.Key points The genes of sucrose metabolic pathway were knocked out to reduce the sucrose consumption. The by-product fructose was reused to synthesize α-arbutin. The optimized whole-cell system improved sucrose conversion by 15.3%.

Chemical Characterization and Bioactive Properties of Wine Lees and Diatomaceous Earth towards the Valorization of Underexploited Residues as Potential Cosmeceuticals

Annually, wine production is responsible for generating large quantities of residues, which are frequently disposed of and not valorized. So far, different studies have been conducted on grape pomace, yet less attention has been paid to other residues, such as wine lees and diatomaceous earth used in wine filtration. In this context, this study aimed to evaluate and compare the phenolic profile of these underexploited winemaking residues and assess their biological potential based on their antioxidant, antimicrobial, cytotoxic, and anti-aging activities (inhibition of tyrosinase and collagenase). Twenty-nine phenolic compounds, including twelve anthocyanins, were tentatively identified in the residues, with red grape pomace showing the highest diversity of compounds. The diatomaceous earth presented the highest content of non-anthocyanin phenolic compounds, being particularly rich in flavan-3-ols and myricetin-O-hexoside, and also presenting two anthocyanins. This sample also showed a high antioxidant activity, evidencing the best result in the reducing power assay. The red wine lees extract, despite showing a low content of phenolic compounds and less antioxidant activity, presented the highest inhibition capacity of bacteria growth. The extracts did not exhibit cytotoxicity against keratinocyte (up to 400 μg/mL) and fibroblast (up to 100 μg/mL) skin cell lines. However, the capacity of inhibiting tyrosinase and collagenase was low for the lees and diatomaceous earth, contrary to the grape pomace, seeds, and skins extracts that showed promising results, evidencing its potential as a cosmeceutical. Overall, this study highlights for the first time the potential of diatomaceous earth, an underexploited winemaking waste, in the obtention of added-value extracts and/or ingredients for cosmetic industry.

In vitro anti-ageing activities of ethanolic extracts from Pink rambutan (Nephelium lappaceum Linn.) for skin applications

Skin ageing is characterized by features such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, laxity, rough-textured appearance, melasma and freckles. Several researches have focused for preventing, and treating skin ageing by many natural ingredients. This study aimed to assess the anti-ageing activities for anti-skin ageing of the ethanolic extracts of Pink rambutan (PR) (Nephelium lappaceum Linn.) from leaves (L), branches (B), seeds (S), and peels from ripe (R) and young (Y) fruits. The extraction yields of all Pink Rambutan (PR) extracted by the Maceration (M) and the Soxhlet extraction (Sox) using 95% ethanol as a solvent, ranged from 10.62% to 30.63%. Flavonoids were found as the main phytochemicals in almost all the PR extracts. The PR-Y-M and PR-Y-Sox extracts gave the highest total phenolic contents by the Folin-Ciocalteu assay of 67.60 ± 4.38 mgGAE/g, and total flavonoid contents by the modified aluminum chloride colorimetric assay of 678.72 ± 23.59 mgQE/g, respectively. The PR-L-M extracts showed the highest three anti-oxidative activities; the free radical scavenging (SC₅₀ of 0.320 ± 0.070 mg/mL), the lipid peroxidation inhibition (LC₅₀ of 0.274 ± 0.029 mg/mL), and the metal chelation activity (MC₅₀ of 0.203 ± 0.021 mg/mL). All the PR extracts at 0.01 and 0.1 mg/mL showed no cytotoxicity on B₁₆F₁₀ cells, and human skin fibroblasts, respectively. Likewise, the PR-R-Sox extract exhibited the highest anti-melanogenesis on B₁₆F₁₀ cells (52.7 ± 0.9%) and, the mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activity (IC₅₀ of 0.04 ± 0.02 mg/mL), which was significantly comparable to kojic acid (p < 0.05). The PR-Y-Sox extract showed the collagen biosynthesis by the Sirius Red method, and the stimulation of anti-ageing genes (Sirt1 and Foxo1) on human skin fibroblasts by the RT-PCR method, which were similar to standards ʟ-ascorbic acid and resveratrol, respectively. This study suggests that the PR-R-Sox and PR-Y-Sox extracts can be further developed as natural anti-ageing agents for whitening and anti-wrinkle in the cosmetics, cosmeceutical, and pharmaceutical industries.

Exploiting HOPNO-dicopper center interaction to development of inhibitors for human tyrosinase

In human, Tyrosinase enzyme (TyH) is involved in the key steps of protective pigments biosynthesis (in skin, eyes and hair). The use of molecules targeting its binuclear copper active site represents a relevant strategy to regulate TyH activities. In this work, we targeted 2-Hydroxypyridine-N-oxide analogs (HOPNO, an established chelating group for the tyrosinase dicopper active site) with the aim to combine effects induced by combination with a reference inhibitor (kojic acid) or natural substrate (tyrosine). The HOPNO-MeOH (3) and the racemic amino acid HOPNO-AA compounds (11) were tested on purified tyrosinases from different sources (fungal, bacterial and human) for comparison purposes. Both compounds have more potent inhibitory activities than the parent HOPNO moiety and display strictly competitive inhibition constant, in particular with human tyrosinase. Furthermore, 11 appears to be the most active on the B16-F1 mammal melanoma cells. The investigations were completed by stereospecificity analysis. Racemic mixture of the fully protected amino acid 10 was separated by chiral HPLC into the corresponding enantiomers. Assignment of the absolute configuration of the deprotected compounds was completed, based on X-ray crystallography. The inhibition activities on melanin production were tested on lysates and whole human melanoma MNT-1 cells. Results showed significant enhancement of the inhibitory effects for the (S) enantiomer compared to the (R) enantiomer. Computational studies led to an explanation of this difference of activity based for both enantiomers on the respective position of the amino acid group versus the HOPNO plane.

The Effect of Cosmetic Ingredients of Phenol Type on Immediate Pigment Darkening and Their (Photo)Protective Action in Association with Melanin Pigmentation: A Model In Vitro Study

Immediate pigment darkening, the first response of skin to solar exposure leading to undesired irregular pigmentation and dark spots, is the rapid onset of melanin pigmentation resulting from oxidation of the melanogenic indoles, namely 5,6-dihydroxyindole (DHI) and 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid (DHICA) available in epidermal melanocytes. The search for effective sunscreen formulations is nowadays focused on UVA/B filters and additional ingredients that may scavenge the reactive oxygen species generated in these processes. In this work the effects of phenolic cosmetic ingredients (CIs), paradol-6, a ginger CO2 extract, and phenylethyl resorcinol on photosensitized DHI and DHICA oxidation were investigated showing a decrease of their consumption and melanin formation (25–30% decrease with phenylethyl resorcinol). The photoprotective role of CIs was also evaluated in model systems. Paradol-6 and ginger CO2 extract can halve linoleic acid peroxidation in the riboflavin-sensitized reaction, while dienes generation reduction (30% of control) was observed in the Rose-Bengal-sensitized photooxidation with paradol-6. The presence of DHI/DHICA melanin exerted a synergistic effect. The decay of thymine free or as a DNA base was almost completely inhibited by CIs. These results open new perspectives in the design of skin care formulations for ameliorating skin spots and contrasting ageing processes associated with sun exposure.

Phenolic profiles of Atlantic sea cucumber (Cucumaria frondosa) tentacles and their biological properties

Sea cucumber tentacles (aquapharyngeal bulb) are a rich source of biologically active compounds, including phenolics, however they are mainly discarded as processing waste. This study evaluated free, esterified, and insoluble-bound phenolics of Atlantic sea cucumber (Cucumaria frondosa) tentacles and their antioxidant activity for the first time. Biological properties such as inhibitory activities against α-glucosidase, tyrosinase, and the formation of AGEs as well as LDL-cholesterol and DNA oxidation were investigated. The antioxidant activity of the phenolic extracts was also evaluated in a fish model system. In the UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS analysis, 31 phenolic compounds, mainly phenolic acids and flavonoids, were identified and quantified. Among them, eight compounds were detected for the first time in any species of sea cucumber. The free phenolic fraction was the major form of phenolics, mainly protocatechuic acid, p-coumaric acid, gallic acid, ellagic acid, catechin, and quercetin, exhibiting strong antioxidant and biological activities. Fresh Atlantic salmon treated with sea cucumber phenolics delayed lipid oxidation as measured by the thiobarbituric acid reactive substances (TBARS) assay. Therefore, Atlantic sea cucumber tentacles may serve as a viable source of functional food ingredients with protective antioxidant properties.

Evaluation and Comparison of the Antimelanogenic Properties of Different Solvent Fractionated Cnidium japonicum Extracts in B16F10 Murine Melanoma Cells

Cnidium japonicum is a biennial halophyte found in the salt marshes and shores of Korea and widely used in traditional Korean medicine as an ingredient. This study investigated and compared the antimelanogenic effect of solventpartitioned fractions of C. japonicum extract (CJEFs) in a B16F10 mouse melanoma cell model, focusing on tyrosinase activity and production. Melanogenesis is the process in which skin pigment melanin is produced through tyrosinase activity. Overproduction of melanin is the primary reason behind several skin disorders such as freckles, spots, and hyperpigmentation. The antimelanogenic capacity of CJEFs was initially screened by their tyrosinase inhibitory effects, prevention of dihydroxyphenylalanine (DOPA) oxidation, and suppression of melanin production. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity and DOPA oxidation by CJEFs was suggested to be related to the downregulation of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and tyrosinase-related protein-2, which was confirmed using mRNA and protein expression levels. Moreover, the glycogen synthase kinase 3 beta- and cyclic adenosine monophosphate response element-binding protein-related signaling pathways were inhibited by treatment with CJEFs, indicating their action mechanism. All the tested CJEFs exerted similar effects on tyrosinase activity and production. However, among those, 85% aq. MeOH was the most active fraction to suppress the signaling pathway that produces tyrosinase. These results suggest that especially the MeOH fraction of C. japonicum extract serves as a potential source of bioactive substances, with effective antimelanogenesis properties.

Screening and Structure-Activity Relationship for Selective and Potent Anti-Melanogenesis Agents Derived from Species of Mulberry (Genus Morus)

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional, copper-containing and rate-limiting oxidase that catalyses crucial steps in the melanogenesis pathway and is responsible for skin-pigmentation abnormalities in mammals. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors derived from natural and synthetic sources have been identified as an objective for the development of anti-melanogenesis agents. However, due to side effects and lack of expected efficiency, only a small percentage of them are used for medical and cosmetic purposes. This critical review focuses on searching for novel active substances and recently discovered plant-derived anti-tyrosinase inhibitors from the Morus genus (Moraceae family). A detailed analysis of their structure-activity relationships is discussed. The information contained in this article is crucial for the cosmetics and medical industries, in order to show new directions for the effective search for natural anti-melanogenesis products (with satisfactory efficiency and safety) to treat and cure hyperpigmentation.

Synergistic Effect of DIBOA and Verbascoside from Acanthus mollis Leaf on Tyrosinase Inhibition

Overexpression of melanin contributes to darkening of plant and fruit tissues and skin hyperpigmentation, leading to melasma or age spots. Although melanin biosynthesis is complex and involves several steps, a single enzyme known as tyrosinase is key to regulating this process. The melanogenesis pathway is initiated by oxidation of the starting material l-tyrosine (or l-DOPA) to dopaquinone by tyrosinase; the resulting quinone then serves as a substrate for subsequent steps that eventually lead to production of melanin. Medicinal plants are considered a good source of tyrosinase inhibitors. This study investigated the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of A. mollis leaf extracts and their phytochemicals. Significant activity was verified in the ethanol extract -EEt (IC50 = 1.21 µg/mL). Additionally, a kinetic study showed that this tyrosinase inhibition occurs by DIBOA (2,4-dihydroxy-1,4-benzoxazin-3-one) and verbascoside contribution through a non-competitive reaction mechanism. A synergistic effect on tyrosinase inhibition was observed in the binary combination of the compounds. In conclusion, both EEt and a mixture of two of its phytochemicals can be effective tyrosinase inhibitors and can be used as a bleaching agent for cosmetic formulations in the future.

In vitro acetylcholinesterase, tyrosinase inhibitory potentials of secondary metabolites from Euphorbia schimperiana and Euphorbia balsamifera

Acetylcholinesterase, tyrosinase, and α-glucosidase inhibition activities of Euphorbia schimperiana and Euphorbia balsamifera extracts, fractions, and available pure compounds were evaluated for the first time. Acetylcholinesterase assay revealed a significant inhibitory activity of E. balsamifera total extract and n-hexane fraction with 47.7% and 43.3%, respectively, compared to the reference drug, which was 75%. The n-butanol fraction demonstrated tyrosinase inhibitory activity for E. balsamifera and E. schimperiana with 36.7% and 29.7%, respectively, compared to 60% for the reference drug. Quercetin-3-O-α-glucuronide, quercetin-3-O-β-D-glucuronide-methyl ester, quercetin-3-O-α-L-rhamnoside, 3,3′-di-O-methyl ellagic acid, 3,3′-di-O-methyl-ellagic acid-4-β-D-xylopyranoside, and 4-O-ethyl gallic acid were identified from E. schimperiana while quercetin-3-O-glucopyranoside and isoorientin were determined from E. balsamifera. The AChE inhibitory effect of pure compounds exhibited promising activity, where 4-O-ethylgallic acid demonstrated 51.1%, while the highest tyrosinase inhibition was demonstrated by isoorientin with 50.6% compared to the reference drug (60%). Finally, a molecular docking study was performed for the most promising AChE and tyrosinase inhibitors. The extracts, fractions, and isolated compounds showed no α-glucosidase inhibitory activity.

Bioassay-Guided Skin-Beneficial Effects of Fractionated Sideritis raeseri subsp. raeseri Extract

This study aimed to evaluate the potentials for skin-beneficial effects of the hydroethanolic extract of the aerial parts of ironwort (Sideritis raeseri Boiss. & Heldr. subsp. raeseri) and its fractions (petroleum ether, ethyl acetate, n-butanol and water). For these purposes, chemical analysis and in vitro antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase and antimicrobial assays, as well as determination of sun protection factor (SPF), were performed. The highest total phenolic content and quantity of individual flavonoids, chlorogenic acid and verbascoside were determined in the n-butanol fraction, which is in line with results obtained for antioxidant activity. The greatest antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus epidermidis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa, the most common causative agents of the skin infections in humans, was exhibited by the ethyl acetate fraction. The strongest anti-tyrosinase activity was shown by the hydroethanolic extract (52.64% of inhibition at 100 μg/mL). Almost all tested samples showed photoprotective activity with SPF higher than 6 obtained at a low concentration of 0.1 mg/mL, which was more than 15 for the butanol fraction. These findings revealed that the hydroethanolic extract of S. raeseri aerial parts could be a valuable ingredient in the formulation of cosmetic and medicinal products intended to overcome various skin disorders.

Chestnut Wood Mud as a Source of Ellagic Acid for Dermo-Cosmetic Applications

Ellagic acid (EA) has long been recognized as a very active antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial agent. However, its low bioavailability has often hampered its applications in health-related fields. Here, we report a phospholipid vesicle-based controlled release system for EA, involving the exploitation of chestnut wood mud (CWM), an industrial by-product from chestnut tannin production, as a largely available and low-cost source of this compound. Two kinds of CWM with different particle size distributions, indicated as CWM-A and CWM-B (<100 and 32 µm, respectively), containing 5 ± 1% w/w EA, were incorporated into transfersomes. The latter were small in size (~100 nm), homogeneously dispersed, and negatively charged. 2,2-Diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and ferric reducing/antioxidant power (FRAP) assays indicated up to three-fold improvement in the antioxidant properties of CWM upon incorporation into transfersomes. The kinetics of EA released under simulated physiological conditions were evaluated by UV-Vis spectroscopy and HPLC analysis. The best results were obtained with CWM-B (100% of EA gradually released after 37 days at pH 7.4). A stepwise increase in the antioxidant properties of the released material was also observed. Cell-based experiments confirmed the efficacy of CWM-B transfersomes as antioxidant agents in contrasting photodamage.