Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

Effect of hydroalcoholic extract of Sambucus nigra on superficial digital flexor tendon repair in rabbit by ultrasonography and histopathology

BACKGROUND

Adult tendon tissue has limited and slow regenerative capacity. Sambucus nigra plant possesses antioxidant and anti-inflammatory attributes.

OBJECTIVES

This study aimed to evaluate the effect of hydroalcoholic extract of this plant's fruit on superficial digital flexor tendon repair in rabbits (SDFT).

METHODS

Twenty-five male New Zealand white rabbits weighing 1.5-2 kg were selected, quarantined and randomly divided into four groups of six. By performing a partial left posterior limb tenotomy, differentiating the SDFT and creating multiple scrapes were performed. During 3 consecutive days post-surgery, the positive control group was injected with 0.5 mg/kg dexamethasone, whereas the treatment groups received extract doses of 200 and 400 mg/kg, respectively. The negative control group did not receive any medication. Evaluation of sonographic and histopathological parameters was conducted on days 0, 7 and 28 post-surgeries. Findings were analysed and compared using SPSS22.

RESULTS

Both treatment groups showed significant differences in echogenicity, and collagen fibre alignment compared to the control and positive control groups, in sonographic evaluation. Histopathological examination revealed fewer inflammatory cells and increased collagen fibre formation in the treatment groups compared to the other two groups. No significant difference in angiogenesis was observed among the groups on days 7 and 28 (p value <0.05).

CONCLUSIONS

The results indicate that the S. nigra fruit extract, by stimulating collagen synthesis and reducing inflammation, effectively accelerates the healing process of injured tendons.

Encapsulation of Phloroglucinol from Rosenvingea intricata Macroalgae with Zinc Oxide Nanoparticles against A549 Lung Cancer Cells

BACKGROUND/OBJECTIVES

Phloroglucinol (PHL), a phenolic compound extracted from the brown alga Rosenvingea intricata, exhibits potent antioxidant and anticancer properties. This study aims to extract, purify, and characterize PHL, and further develop functionalized zinc oxide nanoparticles (ZnO NPs) loaded with PHL to enhance its therapeutic potential.

METHODS

PHL was extracted using acetone and purified through Sephadex LH-20 column chromatography, yielding a highly enriched fraction (F-3). The purified compound was characterized by FTIR, HPLC, NMR, and LC-MS. ZnO NPs were synthesized, PEGylated, and conjugated with PHL, forming ZnO-PEG-PHL NPs. Their characterization included DLS, zeta potential, XRD, SEM-EDAX, and encapsulation efficiency studies. Antioxidant assays (DPPH, FRAP, ABTS, RPA) were performed and in vitro cytotoxicity on A549 lung cancer cells were determined to evaluate the therapeutic efficacy of PHL.

RESULTS

The purified PHL fraction showed a high phenolic content (45.65 PHL mg/g), which was was confirmed by spectral analysis. The ZnO-PEG-PHL NPs increased in size from 32.36 nm to 46.68 nm, with their zeta potential shifting from -37.87 mV to -26.82 mV. The antioxidant activity was superior for the ZnO-PEG-PHL NPs in all assays, while the in vitro cytotoxicity tests showed an IC50 of 40 µg/mL compared to 60 µg/mL for the ZnO NPs and 70 µg/mL for PHL. Apoptotic studies revealed significant cell cycle arrest and apoptosis induction.

CONCLUSIONS

The synthesized ZnO-PEG-PHL NPs demonstrated enhanced antioxidant and anticancer properties, making them promising candidates for cancer therapy and antioxidant applications.

Explicating the multifunctional roles of tocotrienol and squalene in promoting skin health

The skin is the largest organ in the integumentary system, protecting against various external threats, including ultraviolet exposure, heat, infections, dehydration and mechanical injuries. Skin disorders can arise from various causes, including allergic reactions or breaches in the skin barrier, which allow microorganisms or chemicals to penetrate the sweat ducts. These conditions encompass a wide range of issues, including acne, xerosis (dry skin), fungal infections, atopic dermatitis (eczema) and psoriasis. Collectively, these ailments affect a significant portion of the global population, impacting approximately one-third of people worldwide. Additionally, oxidative stress induced by ageing and prolonged exposure to ultraviolet rays can manifest in visible alterations such as pigmentation, wrinkling and dehydration. Recent investigations have underscored the potential of natural antioxidant compounds in safeguarding skin health and combating ageing-related changes. Tocotrienols, a subgroup of vitamin E, have garnered significant attention owing to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. Significant amounts of tocotrienols can be found in rice bran, olive, oats and hazelnuts. Similarly, squalene, predominantly sourced from fish liver oils such as those from sharks, has been used as an emollient in cosmetic formulations. This article offers a comprehensive review of existing literature elucidating the dermatological benefits associated with tocotrienols and squalene, emphasising their roles as antioxidants, anti-inflammatories, skin barrier protection and facilitators of wound healing. Moreover, it sheds light on contemporary research findings suggesting these compounds' therapeutic promise in managing and ameliorating various skin conditions.

Molecular farming expression of recombinant fusion proteins applied to skincare strategies

This review discusses the current research progress in molecular farming technology in the field of skincare, with an emphasis on molecular farming expression strategies. The strategies of transdermal drug delivery and their advantages are also highlighted. The expression of cosmetically relevant fused proteins has become an important way to enhance the efficacy of the proteins. Therefore, we also discuss the feasibility and strategies for expressing fusion proteins in A. thaliana, specifically the fusion of Epidermal growth factor (EGF) to a cell-penetrating peptide (CPP), in which the production can be greatly enhanced via plant expression systems since these systems offer higher biosecurity, flexibility, and expansibility than prokaryotic, animal and mammalian expression systems. While the fusion of EGF to CCP can enhance its transdermal ability, the effects of the fusion protein on skin repair, melasma, whitening, and anti-aging are poorly explored. Beyond this, fusing proteins with transdermal peptides presents multiple possibilities for the development of tissue repair and regeneration therapeutics, as well as cosmetics and beauty products. As certain plant extracts are known to contain proteins beneficial for skin health, the expression of these proteins in plant systems will better maintain their integrity and biological activities, thereby facilitating the development of more effective skincare products.

Senescence Rejuvenation through Reduction in Mitochondrial Reactive Oxygen Species Generation by Polygonum cuspidatum Extract: In Vitro Evidence

Oxidative stress caused by reactive oxygen species (ROS) is one of the major causes of senescence. Strategies to reduce ROS are known to be important factors in reversing senescence, but effective strategies have not been found. In this study, we screened substances commonly used as cosmetic additives to find substances with antioxidant effects. Polygonum cuspidatum (P. cuspidatum) extract significantly reduced ROS levels in senescent cells. A novel mechanism was discovered in which P. cuspidatum extract reduced ROS, a byproduct of inefficient oxidative phosphorylation (OXPHOS), by increasing OXPHOS efficiency. The reduction in ROS by P. cuspidatum extract restored senescence-associated phenotypes and enhanced skin protection. Then, we identified polydatin as the active ingredient of P. cuspidatum extract that exhibited antioxidant effects. Polydatin, which contains stilbenoid polyphenols that act as singlet oxygen scavengers through redox reactions, increased OXPHOS efficiency and subsequently restored senescence-associated phenotypes. In summary, our data confirmed the effects of P. cuspidatum extract on senescence rejuvenation and skin protection through ROS reduction. This novel finding may be used as a treatment in senescence rejuvenation in clinical and cosmetic fields.

Role of Phytochemicals in Treatment of Aging and Cancer: Focus on Mechanism of FOXO3 Activation

There have been many studies reporting that the regular consumption of fruits and vegetables is associated with reduced risks of cancer and age-related chronic diseases. Recent studies have demonstrated that reducing reactive oxygen species and inflammation by phytochemicals derived from natural sources can extend lifespans in a range of model organisms. Phytochemicals derived from fruits and vegetables have been known to display both preventative and suppressive activities against various types of cancer via in vitro and in vivo research by interfering with cellular processes critical for tumor development. The current challenge lies in creating tailored supplements containing specific phytochemicals for individual needs. Achieving this goal requires a deeper understanding of the molecular mechanisms through which phytochemicals affect human health. In this review, we examine recently (from 2010 to 2024) reported plant extracts and phytochemicals with established anti-aging and anti-cancer effects via the activation of FOXO3 transcriptional factor. Additionally, we provide an overview of the cellular and molecular mechanisms by which these molecules exert their anti-aging and anti-cancer effects in specific model systems. Lastly, we discuss the limitations of the current research approach and outline for potential future directions in this field.

Fermented tea leave extract against oxidative stress and ageing of skin in vitro and in vivo

OBJECTIVE

The objective is to develop a natural and stable anti-oxidative stress and anti-ageing ingredient. In this study, we evaluated the changes in white tea leaves fermented with Eurotium cristatum PLT-PE and Saccharomyces boulardii PLT-HZ and their efficacy against skin oxidative stress.

METHODS

We employed untargeted metabolomics technology to analyse the differential metabolites between tea extract (TE) and fermented tea extract (FTE). In vitro, using H2O2-induced HaCaT cells, we evaluated cell vitality, ROS, and inflammatory factors (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6). Additionally, we verified the effects on the extracellular matrix and nuclear DNA using fibroblasts or reconstructed skin models. We measured skin hydration, elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio in volunteers after using an emulsion containing 3% FTE for 28 and 56 days.

RESULTS

Targeted metabolomics analysis of white tea leaves yielded more than 20 differential metabolites with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, including amino acids, polypeptides, quercetin, and liquiritin post-fermentation. FTE, compared to TE, can significantly reduce reactive oxygen species (ROS) and protect against oxidative stress-induced skin damage in H2O2-induced HaCaT cells. FTE can inhibit H2O2-induced collagen degradation by suppressing the MAPK/c-Jun signalling pathway and can also mitigate the reactive oxygen species damage to nuclear DNA. Clinical studies showed that the volunteers' stratum corneum water content, skin elasticity, wrinkle area, wrinkle area ratio, erythema area, and erythema area ratio significantly improved from the baseline after 28 and 56 days of FTE use.

CONCLUSION

This study contributes to the growing body of literature supporting the protective effects against skin oxidative stress and ageing from fermented plant extracts. Moreover, our findings might inspire multidisciplinary efforts to investigate new fermentation techniques that could produce even more potent anti-ageing solutions.

Elevating Skincare Science: Grape Seed Extract Encapsulation for Dermatological Care

The skin is the largest organ in the human body and serves multiple functions such as barrier protection and thermoregulation. The maintenance of its integrity and healthy structure is of paramount importance. Accordingly, technological advances in cosmetic sciences have been directed towards optimizing these factors. Plant-derived ingredients have been explored for their bioactivity profiles and sustainable sources. Grape by-products contain a group of bioactive molecules that display important biological activities. Nonetheless, many of these molecules (e.g., phenolic compounds) are unstable and susceptible to degradation. So, their encapsulation using nano/microsystems (i.e., microdispersions) has been explored as a promising solution. In this work, two grape seed extracts were obtained, one from a single grape variety (GSE-Ov) and another from a mix of five grape varieties (GSE-Sv). These extracts were analysed for their antioxidant and antimicrobial activities, as well as their chemical composition and molecular structure. The extract that showed the most promising properties was GSE-Ov with a DPPH IC50 of 0.079 mg mL-1. This extract was encapsulated in soy lecithin microdispersions coated with pectin, with an encapsulation efficiency of 88.8%. They showed an in vitro release of polyphenols of 59.4% during 24 h. The particles displayed a zeta potential of -20.3 mV and an average diameter of 13.6 µm. Microdispersions proved to be safe under 5 and 2.5 mg mL-1 in HaCaT and HDF cell models, respectively. Additionally, they demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity against IL-1α when tested at 2 mg mL-1. This work enabled the valorisation of a by-product from the wine industry by using natural extracts in skincare products.

Predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental characterizations: A review

Emulsions in the form of creams, lotions, gels or foams are the most widely used personal care formulations to improve the condition and feel of the skin. Achieving an optimal balance between their performance, effectiveness and sensory profile is essential, with the sensory profile being a key factor in consumer satisfaction and the success of these products in the market. Well-established methods using highly trained and semi-trained panels (e.g. Spectrum descriptive analysis, Flash Profile method, Quantitative Descriptive Analysis method and 'Check-all-that-apply') are available and commonly used for the sensory assessment of personal care products. Nevertheless, a common drawback among all these methods is their inherent cost, both in terms of financial resources and time requirements. In recent years, research studies have emerged to address this limitation by investigating potential correlations between tactile sensory attributes and instrumental data associated with the physical characteristics of topical formulations. In other words, significant efforts have been invested in the development of robust instrumental methods specifically designed to accurately predict the sensory description that a panel of assessors could establish. These methods are not only faster, cheaper and more objective compared to traditional sensory testing, but they can also be applied to formulations that have not undergone extensive safety and toxicological testing. This review summarizes the most relevant findings, trends and current challenges in predicting tactile sensory attributes of personal care emulsions based on instrumental parameters.

Kunzea Ericoides (Kanuka) Leaf Extracts Show Moisturisation, Antioxidant, and UV Protection Effects in HaCaT Cells and Anti-melanogenesis Effects in B16F10 Cells

Kunzea ericoides (kanuka) products are well-known for their potent medicinal values in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory applications. The present study identified various compounds, such as chlorogenic acid, gallic acid, quercetin, and (E)-ferulic acid in the kanuka leaf extract, showing its potential use in maintaining skin health. The influence of kanuka leaf extract upon epidermal cells concerning cytotoxicity and in vitro activities of moisturisation, antioxidation, UV protection, and anti-melanogenesis effects were explored in the study. Kanuka leaf extract demonstrated significant promotion in the proliferation of HaCaT and B16F10 cells. After incubation with kanuka leaf extract, the content of ROS and DPPH in HaCaT was significantly decreased; at the same time, more SOD was produced. Furthermore, hyaluronidase-1 (HYAL-1) and HYAL-4 expressions were inhibited, while the aquaporin 3 (AQP-3) content was significantly increased in HaCaT. Kanuka leaf extract also inhibited the expressions of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-14 in UV-induced HaCaT cells. In the B16F10 cell line, melanin and tyrosinase production were decreased under the presence of kanuka leaf extract, and the expressions of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TYRP-1), and TYRP-2 were also inhibited. The study validated kanuka leaf extract as an effective natural product against photoaging and melanogenesis.

The Impact of Chlorella vulgaris Fortification on the Nutritional Composition and Quality Characteristics of Beef Burgers

Chlorella vulgaris (C.V) is known for its high protein and nutrient contents and has been touted as a potential functional ingredient in food products. For this study, beef burgers were formulated with varying levels of Chlorella vulgaris fortification (0%, 0.5%, 1%, and 1.5% by weight). The nutritional composition, including proximate analysis and mineral content, was determined for each treatment group. The quality characteristics evaluated included thiobarbituric acid (TBA), total volatile base nitrogen (TVBN), pH, and total acidity. The study included extracting the active substances from Chlorella vulgaris using three solvents, 50% ethanol, 95% ethanol, and water, to evaluate the effect on the antimicrobial and antioxidant activity. The results showed that the water extract had the highest total phenolic content (183.5 mg gallic acid equivalent per gram) and the highest flavonoid content (54 mg quercetin per gram). The aqueous extract had the highest content of total antioxidants, followed by the 95% ethanol and 50% ethanol extracts. Meanwhile, the 50% ethanol extract showed the best antimicrobial activity, while the aqueous extract had less of an effect on Gram-positive bacteria and no effect on E. coli. For the burger treatments, at the end of the storage period, it was observed that the microbial load of the treatments decreased compared to the control, and there was a high stability in the total volatile base nitrogen (TVBN) values for the treatments compared to the control, reaching a value of 22.4 at month 5, which is well above the acceptable limit, indicating spoilage. The pH values were higher for all of the treatments, with a lower total acidity for all of the treatments compared to the control. In conclusion, utilizing Chlorella vulgaris algae as a natural preservative to extend the freshness of burgers is a sustainable and innovative approach to food preservation. By harnessing the power of this green superfood, we not only enhance the shelf life of our food products but also contribute to a healthier and more environmentally friendly food industry.

Comparison of Anti-Inflammatory and Antibacterial Properties of Raphanus sativus L. Leaf and Root Kombucha-Fermented Extracts

In the cosmetics industry, the extract from Raphanus sativus L. is fermented using specific starter cultures. These cosmetic ingredients act as preservatives and skin conditioners. Kombucha is traditionally made by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria and yeast and is used in cosmetic products. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cosmetic properties of radish leaf and root extract fermented with the SCOBY. Both unfermented water extracts and extracts after 7, 14, and 21 days of fermentation were evaluated. The analysis of secondary plant metabolites by UPLC-MS showed higher values for ferments than for extracts. A similar relationship was noted when examining the antioxidant properties using DPPH and ABTS radicals and the protective effect against H2O2-induced oxidative stress in fibroblasts and keratinocytes using the fluorogenic dye H2DCFDA. The results also showed no cytotoxicity to skin cells using Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests. The ability of the samples to inhibit IL-1β and COX-2 activity in LPS-treated fibroblasts was also demonstrated using ELISA assays. The influence of extracts and ferments on bacterial strains involved in inflammatory processes of skin diseases was also assessed. Additionally, application tests were carried out, which showed a positive effect of extracts and ferments on TEWL and skin hydration using a TEWAmeter and corneometer probe. The results obtained depended on the concentration used and the fermentation time.

The Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Moisturizing Effects of Camellia oleifera Oil and Its Potential Applications

Camellia oleifera oil (CO oil) extracted from C. oleifera seeds has a 2300-year consumption history in China. However, there is relatively little research regarding its non-edible uses. This study determined the physicochemical properties of CO oil extracted via direct pressing, identified its main components using GC-MS, and evaluated its antioxidant, moisturizing, and anti-inflammatory activities. The results revealed that CO oil's acid, peroxide, iodine, and saponification values were 1.06 ± 0.031 mg/g, 0.24 ± 0.01 g/100 g, 65.14 ± 8.22 g/100 g, and 180.41 ± 5.60 mg/g, respectively. CO oil's tocopherol, polyphenol, and squalene contents were 82.21 ± 9.07 mg/kg, 181.37 ± 3.76 mg/kg, and 53.39 ± 6.58 mg/kg, respectively; its unsaturated fatty acid (UFA) content was 87.44%, and its saturated fatty acid (SFA) content was 12.56%. CO oil also demonstrated excellent moisture retention properties, anti-inflammatory effects, and certain free radical scavenging. A highly stable CO oil emulsion with competent microbiological detection was developed using formulation optimization. Using CO oil in the emulsion significantly improved the formulation's antioxidant and moisturizing properties compared with those of the emulsion formulation that did not include CO oil. The prepared emulsion was not cytotoxic to cells and could reduce cells' NO content; therefore, it may have potential nutritional value in medicine and cosmetics.

Comparative Phytoprofiling of Achillea millefolium Morphotypes: Assessing Antioxidant Activity, Phenolic and Triterpenic Compounds Variation across Different Plant Parts

Achillea millefolium L., commonly known as yarrow, is a versatile and widely distributed plant species with a rich history of ethnopharmacological significance. This study aimed to evaluate the comparative differences of A. millefolium inflorescence morphotypes. The phytochemical profile of white and pink inflorescence morphotypes was characterised by a complex of thirty-four phenolic and triterpene compounds. The species has distinct morphotypes of white and pink inflorescence. Phenolic and triterpenic profiles were determined, and individual compounds were quantified in inflorescence, leaf, and stem samples of two morphotypes tested. The antioxidant activity of plant extracts was evaluated by free radical scavenging (ABTS) and ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assays. Caffeoylquinic acids predominated in all parts of the plant tested. Chlorogenic acid and 3,5-dicaffeoylquinic acid were the principal compounds in the phenolic profile. Betulin, betulinic acid, and α-amyrin were the prevailing triterpenic components in the triterpenic profiles of Achillea millefolium morphotypes. The predominant flavonoids in inflorescences were flavones, while in leaves, flavonols were the organ-specific compounds. The quantitative differences were observed between plant parts of morphotypes. Leaves consistently displayed the highest amounts of identified compounds and have been testified as the main source of antioxidant activity. Overall, white inflorescences accumulated a higher total amount of compounds compared to pink ones. The observed differences between morphotypes derived from the same population reflect the differences in specialised metabolites and their chemotypes. This study addresses gaps in knowledge, particularly in phenolic and triterpenic profiling of coloured inflorescence morphotypes, enhancing our understanding of chemotypes and morphotypes within the species.

Unlocking the Therapeutic Potential of Freshwater Sapropel Extracts: In Vitro Analysis and Antioxidant Profiling for Skincare Applications

Background and Objective: Sapropel, a biologically active sedimentary deposit, is high in organic matter and minerals and has been shown to offer health benefits. Its constituents, humic acid (HA) and fulvic acid (FA), have been found to have some therapeutic applications. The aim of this study was to determine the potential therapeutically significant properties of freshwater sapropel extracts: their polyacid content, antioxidative (AO) status, and biological activity in cell culture. Materials and Methods: Freshwater lakes from the southeast region of Latvia were investigated layer by layer. The total organic carbon (TOC) was determined through combustion using the catalytic oxidation method, HA and FA were measured via acid perspiration, and the total polyphenol content (TPC) and total antioxidant status (TAS) was analysed spectrophotometrically. Sapropel extracts' regenerative abilities were tested in vitro using a Cell-IQ real-time monitoring system on mouse BALB/c 3T3 fibroblasts and human keratinocyte HaCaT cell lines. Cytotoxicity was measured through neutral red uptake assessment as a concentration-dependent reduction in the uptake of neutral red dye relative to a vehicle control or untreated cells. Results: The highest AO activity was observed in sapropel extracts with elevated concentrations of HA and TPC from Audzelu Lake (1.08 ± 0.03 mmol/L), and the lowest activity was found in extracts from Ivusku Lake (0.31 ± 0.01 mmol/L). Correspondingly, the concentrations of HA in Audzelu and Ivusku Lakes were recorded as 45.2 and 27.4 mg/g, respectively. High concentrations of HA promoted in vitro cell growth upon short-term exposure (up to 6 h). Conclusions: The results show that high TPC correlates with AO status and sapropel extracts with higher concentrations of HA exhibit greater AO activity and promote in vitro cell growth, suggesting a perspective use for short-term topical therapeutic skin applications. However, higher concentrations over longer durations showed cytotoxic effects, indicating the need for further investigation.

Pulp or Peel? Comparative Analysis of the Phytochemical Content and Selected Cosmetic-Related Properties of Annona cherimola L., Diospyros kaki Thumb., Cydonia oblonga Mill. and Fortunella margarita Swingle Pulp and Peel Extracts

Fruit peels might be a valuable source of active ingredients for cosmetics, leading to more sustainable usage of plant by-products. The aim of the study was to evaluate the phytochemical content and selected biological properties of hydroglycolic extracts from peels and pulps of Annona cherimola, Diospyros kaki, Cydonia oblonga, and Fortunella margarita as potential cosmetic ingredients. Peel and pulp extracts were compared for their antiradical activity (using DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays), skin-lightening potential (tyrosinase inhibitory assay), sun protection factor (SPF), and cytotoxicity toward human fibroblast, keratinocyte, and melanoma cell lines. The total content of polyphenols and/or flavonoids was significantly higher in peel than in pulp extracts, and the composition of particular active compounds was also markedly different. The HPLC-MS fingerprinting revealed the presence of catechin, epicatechin and rutoside in the peel of D. kaki, whereas kaempferol glucoside and procyanidin A were present only in the pulp. In A. cherimola, catechin, epicatechin and rutoside were identified only in the peel of the fruit, whereas procyanidins were traced only in the pulp extracts. Quercetin and luteolinidin were found to be characteristic compounds of F. margarita peel extract. Naringenin and hesperidin were found only in the pulp of F. margarita. The most significant compositional variety between the peel and pulp extracts was observed for C. oblonga: Peel extracts contained a higher number of active components (e.g., vicenin-2, kaempferol rutinoside, or kaempferol galactoside) than pulp extract. The radical scavenging potential of peel extracts was higher than of the pulp extracts. D. kaki and F. margarita peel and pulp extracts inhibited mushroom and murine tyrosinases at comparable levels. The C. oblonga pulp extract was a more potent mushroom tyrosinase inhibitor than the peel extract. Peel extract of A. cherimola inhibited mushroom tyrosinase but activated the murine enzyme. F. margarita pulp and peel extracts showed the highest in vitro SPF. A. cherimola, D. kaki, and F. margarita extracts were not cytotoxic for fibroblasts and keratinocytes up to a concentration of 2% (v/v) and the peel extracts were cytotoxic for A375 melanoma cells. To summarize, peel extracts from all analyzed fruit showed comparable or better cosmetic-related properties than pulp extracts and might be considered multifunctional active ingredients of skin lightening, anti-aging, and protective cosmetics.

Diet and skin health: The good and the bad

The skin protects humans from pathogens, ultraviolet light, chemicals, mechanical, thermal, and physical injuries as well as hazardous substances. Other important roles of the skin include the regulation of several important physiological processes of the body, sensing stimuli, synthesis of vitamin D, and immune surveillance. However, aging, diseases and environmental conditions significantly change the skin's behavior and functioning. The treatment and prevention strategies for various skin diseases especially photoaging usually include topical treatment with medical cosmetology, active ingredients and other physical means of photoprotection. In recent times, however, there is an increasing consciousness about the role of diet and nutrition in skin health with certain dietary components emerging as an adequate alternative approach to alleviate and prevent both endogenous and exogenous aging symptoms. Therefore, this narrative review uniquely discusses the basic structure of the skin and also addresses common dermatological signs of damaged skin, the impacts of unhealthy diet habits on the skin, and the beneficial effects of some healthy diet habits on skin health. The information and data were collated from various literature databases and resources such as Science Direct, PubMed, Wiley, Springer, Taylor and Francis, Inflibnet, Scopus, Google, and Google Scholar using relevant keywords Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). In conclusion, diet and nutrition play essential roles in the optimum functioning of the human body, including the skin. Thus, certain diet habits such as less water intake, high-fat diet, refined sugar, and certain food additives are unhealthy and harmful to the skin while alternative healthy diet habits such as adequate water intake; consumption of antioxidants and polyphenolic-rich fruits, vegetables, nuts, and legumes; a low glycemic index diet; probiotics; and phytoestrogens should be adopted to enhance skin health.

ROS Scavenging Effect of Selected Isoflavones in Provoked Oxidative Stress Conditions in Human Skin Fibroblasts and Keratinocytes

Isoflavones, belonging to polyphenolic compounds, show structural similarity to natural estrogens, and in this context, they have been extensively studied. Some of them are also applied as cosmetic additives; however, little is known regarding their effects on skin cells. In this investigation, common isoflavones, including genistein, daidzein, glycitein, formononetin, and biochanin A, as well as coumestrol, were evaluated for antioxidant activity and their impact on human skin fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Antioxidant effects were assessed using DPPH, ABTS, and FRAP tests, and the ability to scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS) was tested in cells with H2O2-provoked oxidative stress. The impact on the activity of antioxidant enzymes (SOD, CAT, GSH) and lipid peroxidation (MDA) was also explored. As shown by Alamar Blue and neutral red uptake assays, the compounds were not toxic within the tested concentration range, and formononetin and coumestrol even demonstrated a stimulatory effect on cells. Coumestrol and biochanin A demonstrated significant antioxidative potential, leading to a significant decrease in ROS in the cells stimulated by H2O2. Furthermore, they influenced enzyme activity, preventing depletion during induced oxidative stress, and also reduced MDA levels, demonstrating protection against lipid peroxidation. In turn, genistein, daidzein, and glycitein exhibited low antioxidant capacity.

Antioxidant and Antidiabetic Potential of Ormocarpum cochinchinense (Lour.) Merr. Leaf: An Integrated In vitro and In silico Approach

Diabetes is a prevalent metabolic disorder associated with various complications. Inhibition of α-glucosidase and α-amylase enzymes is an effective strategy for managing non-insulin-dependent diabetes mellitus. This study aimed to investigate the antioxidant and antidiabetic potential of Ormocarpum cochinchinense leaf through in vitro and in silico approaches. The methanol extract exhibited the highest phenolic and flavonoid content over solvent extracts aqueous, acetone, hexane, and chloroform, the same has been correlating with strong antioxidant activity. Furthermore, the methanol extract demonstrated significant inhibitory effects on α-amylase and α-glucosidase enzymes, indicating its potential as an antidiabetic agent. Molecular docking analysis identified compounds, including myo-inositol, with favorable binding energies comparable to the standard drug metformin. The selected compounds displayed strong binding affinity towards α-amylase and α-glucosidase enzymes. Structural dynamics analysis revealed that myo-inositol formed a more stable complex with the enzymes. These findings suggest that O. cochinchinense leaf possesses antioxidant and antidiabetic properties, making it a potential source for developing therapeutic agents.

Antioxidant and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Lindera glauca Extracts

INTRODUCTION

The current study investigated the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of ethanol extracts from Lindera glauca twig (LGT) and leaf/stem (LGLS).

METHODS

The antioxidant activities were measured by total content of polyphenol and flavonoid, DPPH radical scavenging, and ABTS+ radical scavenging activity. To evaluate the anti-inflammatory effect in the LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells, protein and mRNA expression of major inflammatory factors were analyzed using Western blot analysis and RT-PCR.

RESULTS

The total polyphenol content of LGT and LGLS was 88.45 ± 11.74 and 115.75 ± 7.87 GA mg/g, respectively. The total flavonoid content was 66 ± 2.89 and 74.33 ± 2.89 QE mg/g. Both LGT and LGLS showed high DPPH and ABTS+ radical scavenging activities. Neither LGT nor LGLS was cytotoxic to RAW 264.7 cells. The anti-inflammatory activities were measured by LPS-induced RAW 264.7 cells. LGT and LGLS showed inhibition of the LPS-induced production of nitric oxide (NO), inducible NO synthase, cyclooxygenase-2 at the protein and mRNA levels, as determined by Western blotting and RT-PCR, respectively. In addition, the release of tumor necrosis factor-α and interleukin-6 mRNA expression levels of these cytokines was reduced by LGT and LGLS.

CONCLUSION

These results suggest that LGT and LGLS extracts have potential for use as a functional antioxidant and anti-inflammatory ingredient in cosmetic industry.

In Vitro Safety and Efficacy Evaluation of a Juniperus communis Callus Culture Extract and Matricaria recutita Processing Waste Extract Combination as a Cosmetic Ingredient

For skin health promotion and cosmetic applications, combinations of plant cell extracts are extensively utilized. As most natural ingredient suppliers offer crude extracts from individual plants or specific isolated compounds, the potential interactions between them are assessed in the development phase of cosmetic products. The industry seeks extract combinations that have undergone optimization and scrutiny for their bioactivities. This study presents a combination of two sustainably produced botanical ingredients and outlines their chemical composition, in vitro safety, and bioactivity for skin health enhancement. The amalgamation comprises the extract of Matricaria recutita processing waste and the extract from Juniperus communis callus culture. Chemical analysis revealed distinct compounds within the extracts, and their combination led to a broader array of potentially synergistic compounds. In vitro assessments on skin cells demonstrated that the combination possesses robust antioxidant properties and the ability to stimulate keratinocyte proliferation, along with regulating collagen type I and matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) production by dermal fibroblasts. The identified traits of this combination render it an appealing cosmetic component. To the best of our knowledge, this represents the first case when the extracts derived from medicinal plant processing waste and biotechnological plant cell cultivation processes have been combined and evaluated for their bioactivity.

Rationalizing a prospective coupling effect of cannabinoids with the current pharmacotherapy for melanoma treatment

Melanoma is one of the leading fatal forms of cancer, yet from a treatment perspective, we have minimal control over its reoccurrence and resistance to current pharmacotherapies. The endocannabinoid system (ECS) has recently been accepted as a multifaceted homeostatic regulator, influencing various physiological processes across different biological compartments, including the skin. This review presents an overview of the pathophysiology of melanoma, current pharmacotherapy used for treatment, and the challenges associated with the different pharmacological approaches. Furthermore, it highlights the utility of cannabinoids as an additive remedy for melanoma by restoring the balance between downregulated immunomodulatory pathways and elevated inflammatory cytokines during chronic skin conditions as one of the suggested critical approaches in treating this immunogenic tumor. This article is categorized under: Cancer > Molecular and Cellular Physiology.

Bioactive Compounds for Combating Oxidative Stress in Dermatology

There are extensive studies that confirm the harmful and strong influence of oxidative stress on the skin. The body's response to oxidative stress can vary depending on the type of reactive oxygen species (ROS) or reactive nitrogen species (RNS) and their metabolites, the duration of exposure to oxidative stress and the antioxidant capacity at each tissue level. Numerous skin diseases and pathologies are associated with the excessive production and accumulation of free radicals. title altered Both categories have advantages and disadvantages in terms of skin structures, tolerability, therapeutic performance, ease of application or formulation and economic efficiency. The effect of long-term treatment with antioxidants is evaluated through studies investigating their protective effect and the improvement of some phenomena caused by oxidative stress. This article summarizes the available information on the presence of compounds used in dermatology to combat oxidative stress in the skin. It aims to provide an overview of all the considerations for choosing an antioxidant agent, the topics for further research and the answers sought in order to optimize therapeutic performance.

HPLC-DAD-MS Characterization, Antioxidant Activity, α-amylase Inhibition, Molecular Docking, and ADMET of Flavonoids from Fenugreek Seeds

Fenugreek (Trigonella foenum-graecum) has a great beneficial health effect; it has been used in traditional medicine by many cultures. Likewise, the α-amylase inhibitors are potential compounds in the development of drugs for the treatment of diabetes. The beneficial health effects of fenugreek lead us to explore the chemical composition of the seeds and their antioxidant and α-amylase inhibition activities. The flavonoid extraction from fenugreek seeds was achieved with methanol through a Soxhlet apparatus. Then, the flavonoid glycosides were characterized using HPLC-DAD-ESI-MS analysis. The antioxidant capacity of fenugreek seed was measured using DPPH, FRAP, ABTS, and CUPRAC assays. Finally, the α-amylase inhibition activity was carried out using in vitro and in silico methods. The methanolic extract was found to contain high amounts of total phenolics (154.68 ± 1.50 μg GAE/mg E), flavonoids (37.69 ± 0.73 μg QE/mg E). The highest radical-scavenging ability was recorded for the methanolic extract against DPPH (IC50 = 556.6 ± 9.87 μg/mL), ABTS (IC50 = 593.62 ± 9.35 μg/mL). The ME had the best reducing power according to the CUPRAC (A 0.5 = 451.90 ± 9.07 μg/mL). The results indicate that the methanolic extracts of fenugreek seed best α-amylase inhibition activities IC50 = 653.52 ± 3.24 μg/mL. Twenty-seven flavonoids were detected, and all studied flavonoids selected have good affinity and stabilize very well in the pocket of α-amylase. The interactions between the studied flavonoids with α-amylase were investigated. The flavonoids from fenugreek seed present a good inhibitory effect against α-amylase, which is beneficial for the prevention of diabetes and its complications.

A Comparative Study between Onion Peel Extracts, Free and Complexed with β-Cyclodextrin, as a Natural UV Filter to Cosmetic Formulations

The growing concern regarding the adverse effects of synthetic UV filters found in sunscreens has spurred significant attention due to their potential harm to aquatic ecosystems and human health. To address this, the present study aimed to extract and microencapsulate sensitive bioactive compounds derived from by-product onion peel (OP) by molecular inclusion using β-cyclodextrin as the wall material. Identification and quantification of bioactive compounds within the extract were conducted through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-DAD) analysis, revealing quercetin and resveratrol as the primary constituents. The photoprotection capacity, evaluated by the sun protection factor (SPF), revealed a protection factor comparable to the value for a synthetic UV filter. The produced microparticles presented high antioxidant capacity, significant photoprotection capacity, encapsulation efficiency of 91.8%, mean diameter of 31 μm, and polydispersity of 2.09. Furthermore, to comprehensively evaluate the performance of OP extract and its potential as a natural UV filter, five O/W emulsions were produced. Results demonstrated that microparticles displayed superior ability in maintaining SPF values over a five-week period. Photoprotection evaluation-skin reactivity tests revealed that both extract and microparticles absorb UV radiation in other regions of UV radiation, revealing their potential to be used as a natural UV filter to produce a sustainable and eco-friendly value-added sunscreen.

Impact of Chitosan-Based Foliar Application on the Phytochemical Content and the Antioxidant Activity in Hemp (Cannabis sativa L.) Inflorescences

In the present study, the phytochemical content and the antioxidant activity in the inflorescences of the monoecious hemp cultivar Codimono grown in southern Italy were assessed, and their elicitation was induced by foliar spray application of 50 mg/L and 250 mg/L of chitosan (CHT) at three different molecular weights (low, CHT L; medium, CHT M; high CHT H). The analysis of the phytochemical profile confirmed that cannabinoids were the most abundant class (54.2%), followed by flavonoids (40.3%), tocopherols (2.2%), phenolic acids (1.9%), and carotenoids (1.4%). Cannabinoids were represented almost exclusively by cannabidiol, whereas cannabigerol and Δ9-tetrahydrocannabinol were detected at very low levels (the latter was below the legal limit of 0.3%). The most abundant flavonoids were orientin and vitexin, whereas tocopherols were mainly represented by α-tocopherol. The antioxidant activity was found to be positively correlated with flavonoids and tocopherols. Statistical analysis revealed that the CHT treatments significantly affected the phytochemical content and the antioxidant activity of hemp inflorescences. Notably, a significant increase in the total phenolic content (from +36% to +69%), the α-tocopherol (from +45% to +75%) and β+γ-tocopherol (from +35% to +82%) contents, and the ABTS radical scavenging activity (from +12% to +28%) was induced by all the CHT treatments. In addition, treatments with CHT 50 solutions induced an increase in the total flavonoid content (from +12% to +27%), as well as in the vitexin (from +17% to +20%) and orientin (from +20% to +30%) contents. Treatment with CHT 50 L almost always resulted in the greatest increases. Overall, our findings indicated that CHT could be used as a low-cost and environmentally safe elicitor to improve the health benefits and the economic value of hemp inflorescences, thus promoting their employment in the food, pharmaceutical, nutraceutical, and cosmetic supply chains.

Antioxidant, Anti-Tyrosinase, and Anti-Skin Pathogenic Bacterial Activities and Phytochemical Compositions of Corn Silk Extracts, and Stability of Corn Silk Facial Cream Product

Zea mays L. Poaceae stigma (corn silk, CS) is a byproduct of agricultural waste and is used as a traditional herb in many countries. CS is rich in chemical compounds known to benefit human health and is also a remedy for infectious diseases and has anti-proliferative effects on human cancer cell lines. In the present study, CS extract has been evaluated for its antioxidant, antibacterial, and anti-tyrosinase activities and its phytochemical composition. The higher total phenolic and flavonoid contents were found in the ethanolic extract of corn silk (CSA), at 28.27 ± 0.86 mg gallic acid equivalent/g extract and 4.71 ± 0.79 mg quercetin equivalent/g extract, respectively. Moreover, the antioxidant content of CSA was found at 5.22 ± 0.87 and 13.20 ± 0.42 mg gallic acid equivalent/g extract using DPPH and reducing power assays. Furthermore, the ethanolic extract of corn silk showed tyrosinase inhibition with an IC50 value of 12.45 µg/mL. The bacterial growth inhibition of CSA was tested using agar disc diffusion and broth dilution assays against Cutibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis. It was found that CSA inhibited C. acnes and S. epidermidis with an inhibition zone of 11.7 ± 1.2 and 9.3 ± 0.6 mm, respectively. Moreover, the CSA showed MIC/MBC of 15.625 mg/mL against C. acnes. The following phytochemical compounds were detected in CSA: cardiac glycosides; n-hexadecanoic acid; hexadecanoic acid, ethyl ester; oleic acid; and 9,12-octadecadienoic acid, ethyl ester. After the corn silk cream product was formulated, the product demonstrated stability without phase separation. This research is beneficial for promoting effective ways to use agricultural waste while utilizing the antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and antibacterial activities of corn silk. Moreover, the use of technology and innovation to obtain high-value CS extract will benefit the development of commercial cosmetic products by providing safe, natural, and quality ingredients to the consumer.

In Vitro and In Vivo Efficacy of Topical Dosage Forms Containing Self-Nanoemulsifying Drug Delivery System Loaded with Curcumin

The external use of curcumin is rare, although it can be a valuable active ingredient in the treatment of certain inflammatory diseases. The aim of our experimental work was to formulate topical dosage forms containing curcumin for the treatment of atopic dermatitis. Curcumin has extremely poor solubility and bioavailability, so we have tried to increase it with the usage of self-emulsifying drug delivery systems. Creams and gels were formulated using penetration-enhancing surfactants and gelling agents. The release of the drug from the vehicle and its penetration through the membrane were determined using a Franz diffusion cell. An MTT cytotoxicity and in vitro antioxidant assays were performed on HaCaT cell line. The in vivo anti-inflammatory effect of the preparations was tested by measuring rat paw edema. In addition, we examined the degree of inflammation induced by UV radiation after pretreatment with the cream and the gel on rats. For the gels containing SNEDDS, the highest penetration was measured after half an hour, while for the cream, it took one hour to reach the maximum concentration. The gel containing Pemulen TR-1 showed the highest drug release. It was determined that the curcumin-containing preparations can be safely applied on the skin and have antioxidant effects. The animal experiments have proven the effectiveness of curcumin-containing topical preparations.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

A Review of Classification, Biosynthesis, Biological Activities and Potential Applications of Flavonoids

Flavonoids represent the main class of plant secondary metabolites and occur in the tissues and organs of various plant species. In plants, flavonoids are involved in many biological processes and in response to various environmental stresses. The consumption of flavonoids has been known to reduce the risk of many chronic diseases due to their antioxidant and free radical scavenging properties. In the present review, we summarize the classification, distribution, biosynthesis pathways, and regulatory mechanisms of flavonoids. Moreover, we investigated their biological activities and discuss their applications in food processing and cosmetics, as well as their pharmaceutical and medical uses. Current trends in flavonoid research are also briefly described, including the mining of new functional genes and metabolites through omics research and the engineering of flavonoids using nanotechnology. This review provides a reference for basic and applied research on flavonoid compounds.

Vitis vinifera (Vine Grape) as a Valuable Cosmetic Raw Material

This review refers to botanical, ecological and phytochemical characteristics of Vitis vinifera L. (vine grape)-a species, the valuable properties of which are widely exploited in the food industry and in recent times in medicine as well as in phytocosmetology. The general characteristic of V. vinifera, followed by the chemical composition and biological activities of different extracts obtained from the plant (fruit, skin, pomace, seed, leaf and stem extracts), are provided. A concise review of the extraction conditions of grape metabolites and the methods of their analysis are also presented. The biological activity of V. vinifera is determined by the presence of high contents of polyphenols, mainly flavonoids (e.g., quercetin, kaempferol), catechin derivatives, anthocyanins and stilbenoids (e.g., trans-resveratrol, trans-ε-viniferin). The review pays particular attention to the application of V. vinifera in cosmetology. It has been proven that V. vinifera possesses strong cosmetological-related properties, such as anti-ageing properties, anti-inflammatory properties and skin-whitening properties. Moreover, a review of studies on V. vinifera biological activities, which are of particular interest for dermatologic problems, are disclosed. Furthermore, the work also emphasises the importance of biotechnological studies on V. vinifera. The last part of the review is addressed to the safety of the use of V. vinifera.

Encapsulation of Rosemary Extracts using High Voltage Electrical Discharge in Calcium Alginate/Zein/Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose Microparticles

The increased demand for functional food with added health benefits is directing industrial procedures toward more sustainable production of naturally added bioactive compounds. The objective of this research was to investigate the potential of bioactive compounds from rosemary extract obtained using high-voltage electrical discharge as a green extraction method, for microencapsulation as a protective method for future application in functional food. Four types of microparticles were made via the ionic gelation method using alginate (Alg), zein (Z), and hydroxypropyl methylcellulose (HPMC) biopolymers and were analyzed considering the physicochemical properties. The diameter of dry microparticles ranged from 651.29 to 1087.37 μm. The shape and morphology analysis of microparticles showed that the obtained microparticles were quite spherical with a granular surface. The high encapsulation efficiency was obtained with a loading capacity of polyphenols up to 11.31 ± 1.47 mg GAE/g (Alg/Z microparticles). The microencapsulation method showed protective effects for rosemary polyphenols against pH changes during digestion. Specifically, the addition of both zein and HPMC to calcium-alginate resulted in microparticles with a prolonged release for better availability of polyphenols in the intestine. This research background indicates that the release of rosemary extract is highly dependent on the initial biopolymer composition with high potential for further functional food applications.

Optimization of the Extraction Conditions of Antioxidant Phenolic Compounds from Strawberry Fruits (Fragaria x ananassa Duch.) Using Response Surface Methodology

The subject of this study is to determine the best solvent and optimum extraction conditions for the extraction of maximum antioxidant phenolic compounds and antioxidant activity from strawberry fruits (Fragaria x ananassa Duch.). Extractions were carried out using solvents with different polarities (water, methanol, ethanol, acetonitrile, and acetone). Box-Behnken Design was used to optimize extraction conditions, including extraction time (t), temperature (°C), and liquid/solid (L/S) ratio. In the study, extracts obtained with acetone indicated the highest total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and antioxidant activity. The optimal extraction conditions for both responses were determined to be time of 17.5 min, temperature 52.5 °C, and liquid/solid ratio of 30:1. The maximum TPC and TFC values were found as 18.78 ± 0.22 mg of gallic acid equivalent (GAE/g) and 10.52 ± 0.35 mg of catechin equivalents (CE/g) under optimum extraction conditions. The results indicated that optimizing extraction conditions is critical for quantifying antioxidant phenolic compounds. The present model can contribute to finding a cheap way of delivering natural antioxidants in the food, cosmeceutical, and pharmaceutical industries. Furthermore, these results indicate that strawberry fruits (Fragaria x ananassa Duch.) can be a natural food colorant in dietary applications with potential health benefits.

Flavonoids as Promising Natural Compounds in the Prevention and Treatment of Selected Skin Diseases

Phytochemicals represent a large and diverse group of naturally occurring compounds, bioactive nutrients, or phytonutrients produced by plants, widely found in fruits, vegetables, whole grains products, legumes, beans, herbs, seeds, nuts, tea, and dark chocolate. They are classified according to their chemical structures and functional properties. Flavonoids belong to the phenolic class of phytochemicals with potential solid pharmacological effects as modulators of multiple signal transduction pathways. Their beneficial effect on the human body is associated with their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimutagenic, and anticarcinogenic properties. Flavonoids are also widely used in various nutritional, pharmaceutical, medical, and cosmetic applications. In our review, we discuss the positive effect of flavonoids on chronic skin diseases such as vitiligo, psoriasis, acne, and atopic dermatitis.

Cosmetic emulsion based on the fucose-rich polysaccharide FucoPol: Bioactive properties and sensorial evaluation

In this study, the physicochemical characteristics, bioactive properties, and sensorial evaluation of a O/W cosmetic formulation containing FucoPol, a fucose-containing bacterial polysaccharide, were assessed. The stability of the FucoPol-based cream, named F-cream, was demonstrated over a period of 2 months at different temperatures (4, 20 and 30 °C), during which it maintained the organoleptic characteristics and pH (5.88-6.19), with minimal variations on the apparent viscosity. Furthermore, no breaking mechanisms occurred upon centrifuging the samples (accelerated stability test) kept at 4 °C and at 30 °C for 60 days. The F-cream presented a shear-thinning and solid-liquid behavior consistent with its envisaged use for topical applications, proving to be a suitable candidate for an anti-aging application due to its antioxidant capacity and effective photoprotection, maintaining cellular preservation. Moreover, the formulation was proven non-cytotoxic for HaCaT cells at concentrations between 0.78 and 12.5 mg/mL, promoting HFFF2 cell migration (46-70 % of wound closure) at a concentration of 2.5 mg/mL, and HaCaT cell migration at a concentration of 10 mg/mL (95-98 % of wound closure). Upon application over the skin, the F-cream provided a hydration and softness with desired spreadability with no residues after application. These findings show that FucoPol has good potential to be used as a functional and/or active ingredient in cosmetic formulations, forming an emulsified cream with appealing sensorial properties that can act as a moisturizer with photoprotection, antioxidant, and regeneration properties.

3D Printed Hollow Microneedles for Treating Skin Wrinkles Using Different Anti-Wrinkle Agents: A Possible Futuristic Approach

Skin wrinkles are an inevitable phenomenon that is brought about by aging due to the degradation of scleroprotein fibers and significant collagen reduction, which is the fundamental basis of anti-wrinkle technology in use today. Conventional treatments such as lasering and Botulinum toxin have some drawbacks including allergic skin reactions, cumbersome treatment procedures, and inefficient penetration of the anti-wrinkle products into the skin due to the high resistance of stratum corneum. Bearing this in mind, the cosmetic industry has exploited the patient-compliant technology of microneedles (MNs) to treat skin wrinkles, developing several products based on solid and dissolvable MNs incorporated with antiwrinkle formulations. However, drug administration via these MNs is limited by the high molecular weight of the drugs. Hollow MNs (HMNs) can deliver a wider array of active agents, but that is a relatively unexplored area in the context of antiwrinkle technology. To address this gap, we discuss the possibility of bioinspired 3D printed HMNs in treating skin wrinkles in this paper. We compare the previous and current anti-wrinkling treatment options, as well as the techniques and challenges involved with its manufacture and commercialization.

Bioactive Molecules from Myrianthus arboreus, Acer rubrum, and Picea mariana Forest Resources

Forest trees are the world's most important renewable natural resources in terms of their dominance among other biomasses and the diversity of molecules that they produce. Forest tree extractives include terpenes and polyphenols, widely recognized for their biological activity. These molecules are found in forest by-products, such as bark, buds, leaves, and knots, commonly ignored in forestry decisions. The present literature review focuses on in vitro experimental bioactivity from the phytochemicals of Myrianthus arboreus, Acer rubrum, and Picea mariana forest resources and by-products with potential for further nutraceutical, cosmeceutical, and pharmaceutical development. Although these forest extracts function as antioxidants in vitro and may act on signaling pathways involved in diabetes, psoriasis, inflammation, and skin aging, much still remains to be investigated before using them as therapeutic candidates, cosmetics, or functional foods. Traditional forest management systems focused on wood must evolve towards a holistic approach, allowing the use of these extractives for developing new value-added products.

Exploring Olive Pomace for Skincare Applications: A Review

The cosmetic industry is continuously searching for new active ingredients in an effort to attend to consumer demands which, in recent years, are focused on more natural and environmentally friendly products, obtained from sustainable resources. Nevertheless, they are required to provide cosmetologically appealing skincare products, ultimately with the purpose of improving skin appearance. The olive oil industry generates a large amount of liquid and semi-solid by-products such as olive pomace. Their phytotoxicity impairs safe disposal, so valorization strategies that promote by-product reuse are needed, which may include skincare products. Hydroxytyrosol is the main phenolic compound present in olive pomace and possesses biological effects that make it a desirable active compound for cosmetic formulations such as antioxidant and anti-aging activities as well as photoprotector, depigmenting, antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory actions. Other compounds present in olive pomace can also have functional properties and skin-related benefits. However, the application of this by-product can be a challenge in terms of formulation’s design, stability, and proven efficacy, so appropriate methodologies should be used to validate its incorporation and may include extraction and further encapsulation of bioactive compounds in order to achieve effective and aesthetic appealing skincare products.

Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Attenuating Intracellular Reactive Oxygen Species Activities of Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia Leaf Extract Phytosomes and Shape Memory Gel Formulation

Oxidative stress is one of the major causes of skin aging. In this study, the shape memory gels containing phytosomes were developed as a delivery system for Nicotiana tabacum var. Virginia fresh (VFL) and dry (VDL) leaf extracts. The extracts were loaded in the phytosomes by a solvent displacement method. The physical and chemical characteristics and stability of phytosomes were evaluated by dynamic light scattering and phytochemistry, respectively. The in vitro antioxidant activity and intracellular reactive oxygen species reduction of phytosomes and/or extracts were investigated by the DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging assays, FRAP assay, and DCFH-DA fluorescent probe. The cytotoxicity and anti-inflammatory activity of VDL and VFL phytosomes were studied by an MTT and a nitric oxide assay, respectively. Here, we first reported the total phenolic content in the dry leaf extract of N. tabacum var. Virginia was significantly greater than that of the fresh leaf extract. The HPLC analysis results revealed that VDL and VFL extracts contained 4.94 ± 0.04 and 3.13 ± 0.01 µg/mL of chlorogenic acid and 0.89 ± 0.00 and 0.24 ± 0.00 µg/mL of rutin, respectively. The phytosomes of the VDL and VFL extracts displayed stable size, polydispersity index, zeta potential values, and good chemical stability. VDL and VDL phytosomes showed higher phenolic and flavonoid contents which showed stronger DPPH and ABTS radical scavenging effects and reduced the intracellular ROS. The results suggested that the phenolic compounds are the main factor in their antioxidant activity. Both VDL and VFL phytosomes inhibited nitric oxide production induced by LPS, suggesting the anti-inflammatory activity of the phytosomes. The shape memory gel containing VDL and VFL phytosomes had good physical stability in terms of pH and viscosity. The VDL and VFL phytosomes dispersed in the shape memory gels can be considered as a promising therapeutic delivery system for protecting the skin from oxidation and reactive oxygen species.

Preparation of Bioactive De-Chlorophyll Rhein-Rich Senna alata Extract

Senna alata leaves display various biological activities as a result of their rhein and phenolic composition. The objective of this study was to develop bioactive de-chlorophyll rhein-rich S. alata extracts. The rhein content was quantified using a validated high-performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection (HPLC-DAD) method. The best process parameters for maximizing rhein were established using ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE). The optimal conditions for the parameters were determined using the Box-Behnken design (BBD); 95% v/v ethanol was used as the extraction solvent at 59.52 °C for 18.4 min with a solvent-to-solid ratio of 25.48:1 (mL/g) to obtain the predicted value of rhein at 10.44 mg/g extract. However, the color of the rhein-rich extract remained dark brown. For the removal of chlorophyll, liquid-liquid extraction with vegetable oils and adsorption with bleaching agents were employed. The bleaching agents were significantly more effective at removing chlorophyll and had less of an effect on the reduction in rhein content than vegetable oils. The presence of rhein and phenolics in the de-chlorophyll extracts might be responsible for their antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial activities. These findings indicate that rhein-rich extract and its de-chlorophyll extracts possess sufficient biological activities for the further development of cosmeceuticals and pharmaceuticals.

Terminalia catappa attenuates phenylhydrazine-induced anaemia and hepato-renal toxicity in male Wistar rat by boosting blood cells, modulation of lipoproteins and up-regulation of in vivo antioxidant armouries

AIM

This study investigated the haematinic, antihyperlipidaemic, hepato-renal protective effects of Terminalia catappa aqueous leaf extract on male Wistar rats exposed to phenylhydrazine toxicity.

METHODS

Animals were exposed to phenylhydrazine (PHZ) 50 mg/kg intraperitoneal for two consecutive days thereafter, treated with T. catappa extract (100 mg/kg and 200 mg/kg) orally for 21 days. After the experimentation, animals were sedated with ketamine (70 mg/kg) and euthanized by cervical dislodgement. Blood and organs were collected for haematology and biochemical studies following standard laboratory methods.

RESULTS

Our study showed that T. catappa significantly increased erythrocytes, haemoglobin, haematocrit and high density lipoprotein as well as down-regulating leukocytes, thrombocytes, ALP AST, ALT creatinine, urea, total cholesterol as well as low density lipoprotein. The liver, kidney and spleen antioxidant defence were also up-regulated against the adverse effect caused by phenylhydrazine exposure.

CONCLUSION

Terminalia catappa attenuated Phenylhydrazine-induced anaemia and hepato-renal toxicity in male Wistar rat by boosting blood cells, modulation of lipoproteins and up-regulation of in vivo antioxidant armouries.

Antioxidative and Antimicrobial Evaluation of Bark Extracts from Common European Trees in Light of Dermal Applications

Plant species have developed effective defense strategies for colonizing diverse habitats and protecting themselves from numerous attacks from a wide range of organisms, including insects, vertebrates, fungi, and bacteria. The bark of trees in particular constitutes a number of components that protect against unwanted intruders. This review focuses on the antioxidative, dermal immunomodulatory, and antimicrobial properties of bark extracts from European common temperate trees in light of various skin pathogens, wound healing, and the maintenance of skin health. The sustainability aspect, achieved by utilizing the bark, which is considered a byproduct in the forest industry, is addressed, as are various extraction methods applied to retrieve extracts from bark.

Recent Advances in Natural Polyphenol Research

Polyphenols are secondary metabolites produced by plants, which contribute to the plant's defense against abiotic stress conditions (e.g., UV radiation and precipitation), the aggression of herbivores, and plant pathogens. Epidemiological studies suggest that long-term consumption of plant polyphenols protects against cardiovascular disease, cancer, osteoporosis, diabetes, and neurodegenerative diseases. Their structural diversity has fascinated and confronted analytical chemists on how to carry out unambiguous identification, exhaustive recovery from plants and organic waste, and define their nutritional and biological potential. The food, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical industries employ polyphenols from fruits and vegetables to produce additives, additional foods, and supplements. In some cases, nanocarriers have been used to protect polyphenols during food processing, to solve the issues related to low water solubility, to transport them to the site of action, and improve their bioavailability. This review summarizes the structure-bioactivity relationships, processing parameters that impact polyphenol stability and bioavailability, the research progress in nanocarrier delivery, and the most innovative methodologies for the exhaustive recovery of polyphenols from plant and agri-waste materials.

Appraisal of the Antioxidant Activity, Polyphenolic Content, and Characterization of Selected Himalayan Herbs: Anti-Proliferative Potential in HepG2 Cells

Natural antioxidants derived from plants have played a vital role in preventing a wide range of human chronic conditions and provide novel bioactive leads for investigators in pharmacotherapy discovery. This work was designed to examine the ethnopharmacological role of Urtica dioica (UD), Capsella bursa-pastoris (CBP), and Inula racemosa (IR). The total phenolic and flavonoid contents (TPC and TFC) were illustrated through colorimetric assays, while the antioxidant activity was investigated through DPPH and ABTS assays. The evaluation of phytochemicals by FT-IR of UD and CBP revealed high contents of aliphatic amines, while IR showed a major peak for ketones. The antioxidant activity, TPC and TFC were highest in the ethanol extract of UD, followed by CBP, and IR showed the lowest activity. All of the extracts revealed significant antioxidant capacities along a dosage gradient. Through a HPLC analysis at a wavelength of 280 nm, UD leaves demonstrated an intense peak of quercetin, and the peak for rutin was less intense. CBP (whole plant), instead, demonstrated a major yield of rutin, and a peak for quercetin was not observed in CBP. IR (rhizomes) showed both quercetin and rutin. All of the extracts were significantly cytotoxic to HepG2 cells after 48 h with the trend IR > UD > CBP. The outcomes of this study may be effective in the selection of specific plants as realistic sources of the bioactive components that might be useful in the nutraceutical progression and other biomedical efficacies.

Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Capacity and UV Radiation Protection Properties of Marigold (Calendula officinalis), Carrot (Daucus carota), Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) and Hop (Humulus lupulus) Extracts

Total phenolic content using Folin–Ciocalteu method, antioxidant capacity by CUPRAC method and sun protection properties were measured for four different extracts of selected plants: marigold petals, carrot roots, tomato fruits and hop cones. Three types of extracts: water, oil and water-glycolic (1:4) were studied. Assessment of sun protection properties for extracts obtained from selected plants was first done by mathematical indication method and subsequently done spectrophotometrically. In a method of mathematical indication of UV protection based on absorption spectra, four parameters were determined regarding sun protection properties at different concentrations of selected plant extracts. Absorbance generally increased with an increase of concentration of extracts, but an expected increase of particular parameters was not obtained in all samples. The water-glycolic extract from hop cones was characterized by the highest content of phenolic compounds (among all studied samples) and high antioxidant activity. It also showed high radiation protection. Data for four parameters like UVA/UVB parameter, UVA1/UV parameter, SUI parameter and critical wavelength was generated, and the three first parameters were the highest for water and water-glycolic extracts of marigold. Among all plants, hop cones were characterized by the highest SPF for all types of extracts. SPF values increased with the concentration of extracts, but an increase of the weight of dried plants used to prepared extracts did not influence sun protection factor.

Phytochemical Characterization of Chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) Roots and Evaluation of Their Antioxidant and Antibacterial Potential

Matricaria recutita L., German chamomile, is one of the most widely used medicinal plants, whose efficacy has been proven in numerous studies. However, its roots have attracted only little interest so far, since mainly above-ground plant parts are used for medicinal purposes. To broaden the knowledge of chamomile roots, a profound phytochemical characterization was performed along with a bioactivity screening of corresponding root extracts. While volatile constituents such as chamomillol and polyynes were detected using GC-MS, HPLC-MSⁿ analyses revealed the occurrence of four coumarin glycosides, more than ten phenolic acid esters and five glyceroglycolipids. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity of the extracts was evaluated. Polar extracts revealed IC₅₀ values ranging from 13 to 57 µg/mL in the DPPH radical scavenging assay, which is in the same range as reported for chamomile flower extracts. In addition, superoxide radical scavenging potential and mild antibacterial effects against S. aureus und B. subtilis were demonstrated. Moreover, to assess interspecies variation in chamomile roots, extracts of M. recutita were compared to those of M. discoidea DC. Interestingly, the latter revealed stronger antioxidant activity. The presented results aim at the valorization of chamomile roots, previously discarded as by-product of chamomile flower production, as a sustainable source of bioactive phytochemicals.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Extracts Derived from Fishery Industry Residues: Sardine Wastes and Codfish Frames

The fishery industry generates large amounts of waste (20–75% (w/w) of the total caught fish weight). The recovery of bioactive compounds from residues and their incorporation in cosmetics represents a promising market opportunity and may contribute to a sustainable valorisation of the sector. In this work, protein-rich extracts obtained by high-pressure technologies (supercritical CO₂ and subcritical water) from sardine (Sardina pilchardus) waste and codfish (Gadus morhua) frames were characterized regarding their cosmeceutical potential. Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial activities were evaluated through chemical (ORAC assay), enzymatic (inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase), antimicrobial susceptibility (Klebsiella pneumoniae, Staphylococcus aureus and Cutibacterium acnes) and cell-based (in keratinocytes-HaCaT) assays. Sardine extracts presented the highest antibacterial activity, and the extract obtained using higher extraction temperatures (250 °C) and without the defatting step demonstrated the lowest minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) values (1.17; 4.6; 0.59 mg/mL for K. pneumoniae, S. aureus and C. acnes, respectively). Codfish samples extracted at lower temperatures (90 °C) were the most effective anti-inflammatory agents (a concentration of 0.75 mg/mL reduced IL-8 and IL-6 levels by 58% and 47%, respectively, relative to the positive control). Threonine, valine, leucine, arginine and total protein content in the extracts were highlighted to present a high correlation with the reported bioactivities (R² ≥ 0.7). These results support the potential application of extracts obtained from fishery industry wastes in cosmeceutical products with bioactive activities.

Hibiscus sabdariffa Extract Protects HaCaT Cells against Phenanthrene-Induced Toxicity through the Regulation of Constitutive Androstane Receptor/Pregnane X Receptor Pathway

Phenanthrene (Phe) exposure is associated with skin ageing, cardiotoxicity and developmental defects. Here, we investigated the mode of Phe toxicity in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and the attenuation of toxicity on pre-treatment (6 h) with ethanol extract of Hibiscus sabdariffa calyxes (HS). Cell viability, reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation, mitochondrial membrane potential (ΔΨm) alteration, changes in the transcriptional activity of selected genes involved in phase I and II metabolism, antioxidant response and gluconeogenesis, western blot and docking studies were performed to determine the protective effect of HS against Phe. Phe (250 μM) induced cytotoxicity in HaCaT cells through AhR-independent, CAR/PXR/RXR-mediated activation of CYP1A1 and the subsequent alterations in phase I and II metabolism genes. Further, CYP1A1 activation by Phe induced ROS generation, reduced ΔΨm and modulated antioxidant response, phase II metabolism and gluconeogenesis-related gene expression. However, pre-treatment with HS extract restored the pathological changes observed upon Phe exposure through CYP1A1 inhibition. Docking studies showed the site-specific activation of PXR and CAR by Phe and inhibition of CYP1A1 and CYP3A4 by the bioactive compounds of HS similar to that of the positive controls tested. Our results conclude that HS extract can attenuate Phe-induced toxicity in HaCaT cells through CAR/PXR/RXR mediated inhibition of CYP1A1.