Potential of herbs in skin protection from ultraviolet radiation

Preventive and Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Ingredients in Photo-Induced Epidermal Dysfunction

BACKGROUND

The skin, particularly the epidermis, is subjected to various external stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. UV irradiation, mainly UVB at wavelength of 280-315 nm, can alter several epidermal functions, including cutaneous inflammation, epidermal hyperproliferation, DNA damage, disruption of epidermal permeability barrier and reduction in stratum corneum hydration levels. Because of the negative impacts of UVB irradiation on epidermal functions, great efforts have been made to develop regimens for the protection of alterations in epidermal function induced by UV irradiation.

SUMMARY

While sunscreen can provide physical barrier to UV light, some natural ingredients can also effectively protect the skin from UVB irradiation-induced damages. Studies have demonstrated that either topical or oral administrations of some natural ingredients attenuate UVB irradiation-induced alterations in the epidermal function. The underlying mechanisms by which natural ingredients improve epidermal functions are attributable to antioxidation, stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation, increases in the content of epidermal natural moisturizers and inhibition of inflammation.

KEY MESSAGE

Some natural ingredients exhibit protective and therapeutical benefits in photo-induced epidermal dysfunctions via divergent mechanisms.

Improving ultraviolet protection properties of cotton textiles using Zinc oxide (ZnO) nanomaterials: an approach for controlling occupational and environmental exposures

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is one of the most important risk factor among workers. it may stimulate health outcomes such as multiple skin injuries and blinding eye diseases. So, UV protection is mainly important for people who expose to it. Modification of cotton textiles by nanomaterials is a new approach to overcome this problem. So, the aim of this study is to review studies conducted on using ZnO nanoparticles for improving ultraviolet protection of cotton textiles. The search strategy was provided by cochrane guideline. 45 studies were regarded as appropriate. The results show that UPF for textiles has improved by coated ZnO. However, UPF was depended on the physicochemical characteristics of ZnO and textiles such as yarn structure, effect of woven fabric construction, fabric porosity, and impurity of textiles and laundering conditions. Also, plasma technology has improved UPF, it is recommended that more studies be done to achieve better results.

Tocopherol succinate-loaded ethosomal gel synthesized by cold method technique: Deeper biophysical characterizations for translational application on human skin

BACKGROUND

Tocopherols are well-known antioxidant and moisturizing agent. Tocopherol succinate (TS) are widely used in many skin products especially used in anti-aging and skin whitening product formulation.

AIM

We previously reported the successful synthesis and preliminary characterizations of stable TS ethosomal gels (TSEG) (DOI: 10.1111/jocd.14907). Herein, we develop and further characterize TSEG to enhance the stability of the developed formulation with increased permeation through skin.

METHODS

Cold method technique was used to prepare TS ethosomes. The developed ethosomal vesicle size was 250 nm, which allowed TS to penetrate through the stratum corneum layer and act on melanocytes. For stability study was assessed by thermogravimetric analysis (TGA) by placing TSEG and unloaded/control ethosomal gel (CEG) at various temperature conditions, that is, 8°C, 25°C, 40°C, and 40°C ± 75% RH for 3 months. Organoleptic evaluation was done in terms of color, odor, and phase separation. Transmission electron microscopy (TEM), Fourier Transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), x-ray diffraction spectroscopy (XRD), zeta potential (ZP) and particle size (PS) was used for TSEG physical characterizations. In vitro dissolution and ex-vivo permeation studies (using Franz diffusion cell) were performed for both TSEG and CEG formulations. Human women (N = 34) were used to evaluate in vivo biophysical parameters including erythema, melanin, moisture content, sebum level, and skin elasticity.

RESULTS

Developed formulation was highly thermostable during the 3 months. Erythema, melanin, and sebum level decreased while marked improvement (p < 0.05) in moisture content and elasticity have been observed for the developed TSEG.

CONCLUSION

The developed TSEG formulation was found to be efficient, safe (no adverse effects observed), stable (at least for 3 months), and easy to use for topical application with improved skin complexation and skin integrity.

The Promising Role of Polyphenols in Skin Disorders

The biochemical characteristics of polyphenols contribute to their numerous advantageous impacts on human health. The existing research suggests that plant phenolics, whether consumed orally or applied directly to the skin, can be beneficial in alleviating symptoms and avoiding the development of many skin disorders. Phenolic compounds, which are both harmless and naturally present, exhibit significant potential in terms of counteracting the effects of skin damage, aging, diseases, wounds, and burns. Moreover, polyphenols play a preventive role and possess the ability to delay the progression of several skin disorders, ranging from small and discomforting to severe and potentially life-threatening ones. This article provides a concise overview of recent research on the potential therapeutic application of polyphenols for skin conditions. It specifically highlights studies that have investigated clinical trials and the use of polyphenol-based nanoformulations for the treatment of different skin ailments.

Amaranthus cruentus L. Seed Oil Counteracts UVA-Radiation-Induced Inhibition of Collagen Biosynthesis and Wound Healing in Human Skin Fibroblasts

The effect of Amaranthus cruentus L. seed oil (AmO) on collagen biosynthesis and wound healing was studied in cultured human dermal fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation. It was found that UVA radiation inhibited collagen biosynthesis, prolidase activity, and expression of the β1-integrin receptor, and phosphorylated ERK1/2 and TGF-β, while increasing the expression of p38 kinase. The AmO at 0.05-0.15% counteracted the above effects induced by UVA radiation in fibroblasts. UVA radiation also induced the expression and nuclear translocation of the pro-inflammatory NF-κB factor and enhanced the COX-2 expression. AmO effectively suppressed the expression of these pro-inflammatory factors induced by UVA radiation. Expressions of β1 integrin and IGF-I receptors were decreased in the fibroblasts exposed to UVA radiation, while AmO counteracted the effects. Furthermore, AmO stimulated the fibroblast's migration in a wound healing model, thus facilitating the repair process following exposure of fibroblasts to UVA radiation. These data suggest the potential of AmO to counteract UVA-induced skin damage.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Investigating the efficacy of topical application of Ipomoea carnea herbal cream in preventing skin damage induced by UVB radiation in a rat model

Ultraviolet-B irradiation is a common environmental stressor that has detrimental effects on human skin. Natural sunscreens are well-known for their ability to benefit inflamed sunburn and dry skin. This study examined the effect of formulated Ipomoea carnea herbal cream on UVB-induced skin damage. We screened the bioactive compounds of I. carnea crude extract, showing significant antioxidant activity. Additionally, we evaluated the cytotoxicity, revealing that I. carnea extract has less toxicity to vero cells (IC50 98.45 μg/mL) than to A375 cells (IC50 48.95 μg/mL). Based on this, we formulated the I. carnea herbal cream (FIHC) at 50, 100 and 200 mg concentrations and evaluated its organoleptic characteristics. Then, the rats were exposed to UVB radiation (32,800 J/m2) four times/week (on alternate days) before the cream was applied topically to the dorsal skin surface. Under UVB stress without treatment, rats showed deep dermal damage. In contrast, rats treated with the FIHC exhibited significantly reduced sunburn. Moreover, the histopathological and biochemical assays were confirmed by the topical application of FIHC, which had potentially reduced the skin elasticity and maintained the imbalanced enzyme and non-enzymatic antioxidant activity. Our findings amply demonstrate that the FIHC significantly accelerated the recovery of UVB-induced lesions through antioxidant and down-regulation of skin photodamage.

Development and Optimization of Novel Emulgel Loaded with Andrographolide-Rich Extract and Sesame Oil Using Quality by Design Approach: In Silico and In Vitro Cytotoxic Evaluation against A431 Cells

An epidermoid carcinoma is a form of non-melanoma skin cancer that originates from the outer layer of the skin's squamous cells. Previous studies have shown that andrographis extract and andrographolide inhibit the growth and proliferation of epidermoid carcinoma cells while also inducing cell cycle arrest and apoptosis. The objective of this study was to improve the anticancer efficacy of the andrographolide-rich extract by delivering it in the form of nanoemulgel. During the formulation of emulgels, sonication, and homogenization were employed, and a 2²-factorial design was used to optimize the formulations through the quality by design (QbD) approach. The optimized formulation (AEE8) was subjected to preliminary evaluations along with particle size, drug release, and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) studies. The potential of the optimized emulgel against A431 cell lines was also investigated using MTT assay followed by flow cytometric analysis. The SEM results reveal that the optimized emulgel had a well-defined spherical shape, with a droplet size of 226 ± 1.8 nm, a negative surface charge of -30.1 ± 1.6 mV, and a PDI of 0.157. The cellular data indicate that AEE8 reduced the viability of the A431 cells with an IC₅₀ of 16.56 μg/mL, as determined by MTT assay when compared to cells treated with the extract alone. Furthermore, the flow cytometric analysis of the optimized emulgel formulation demonstrated a marked G2/M phase arrest. This finding further supports the effectiveness of the gel in disrupting the cell cycle at the critical G2 and M phases, which are pivotal for cell division and proliferation. This disruption in cell cycle progression can impede the growth and spread of cancer cells, making the gel a promising candidate for anti-skin-cancer therapy. The safety of emulgels (AEE8) was validated through rigorous biocompatibility testing conducted on HDF (human dermal fibroblast) cell lines, ensuring their suitability for use. Considering the potential of the nanoemulgel, particularly AEE8, as demonstrated by its favorable properties and its ability to disrupt the cell cycle, it holds great promise as an innovative approach to treating skin cancer.

Investigating the use of titanium dioxide (TiO2) nanoparticles on the amount of protection against UV irradiation

In this study, three samples of commercial titanium dioxide nanoparticles (TiO₂) in different sizes were used to investigate their effect on the formulation of sunscreen creams. The aim was to evaluate their role in the performance of sunscreens (i.e. SPF, UVAPF, and critical wavelength). Then the particle size of these samples was determined by photon correlation spectroscopy methods. As a result, the size of primary particles was reduced by using milling and homogenization methods at different times. The results showed that the particle size of samples TA, TB, and TC in the ultrasonic homogenizer decreased from 966.4, 2745.8, and 2471.6 nm to 142.6, 254.8, and 262.8 nm, respectively. These particles were used in the pristine formulation. Then the functional characteristics of each formulation were determined by standard methods. TA had the best dispersion in cream compared to other samples due to its smaller size (i.e. 142.6 nm). For each formulation, two important parameters, including pH and TiO₂ dosage, were investigated in different states. The results showed that the formulations prepared with TA had the lowest viscosity compared to formulations containing TB and TC. SPSS 17 statistical software analysis of variance showed that the performance of SPF, UVAPF and λc in formulations containing TA had the highest levels. Also, the sample containing TAU with the lowest particle size values had the highest protection against UV rays (SPF). According to the photocatalytic functionality of TiO₂, the photodegradation of methylene blue in the presence of each nanoparticle of TiO₂ was studied. The results showed that smaller nanoparticles (i.e. TA) had more photocatalytic activity under UV-Vis irradiation during 4 h (TA (22%) > TB (16%) > TC (15%)). The results showed that titanium dioxide can be used as a suitable filter against all types of UVA and UVB rays.

Development and Characterization of Methyl-Anthranilate-Loaded Silver Nanoparticles: A Phytocosmetic Sunscreen Gel for UV Protection

Methyl anthranilate (MA) is a naturally derived compound commonly used in cosmetic products, such as skin care products, fine perfumes, etc. The goal of this research was to develop a UV-protective sunscreen gel using methyl-anthranilate-loaded silver nanoparticles (MA-AgNPs). The microwave approach was used to develop the MA-AgNPs, which were then optimized using Box-Behnken Design (BBD). Particle size (Y1) and absorbance (Y2) were chosen as the response variables, while AgNO₃ (X1), methyl anthranilate concentration (X2), and microwave power (X3) were chosen as the independent variables. Additionally, the prepared AgNPs were approximated for investigations on in vitro active ingredient release, dermatokinetics, and confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). The study's findings showed that the optimal MA-loaded AgNPs formulation had a particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, and percentage entrapment efficiency (EE) of 200 nm, 0.296 mV, -25.34 mV, and 87.88%, respectively. The image from transmission electron microscopy (TEM) demonstrated the spherical shape of the nanoparticles. According to an in vitro investigation on active ingredient release, MA-AgNPs and MA suspension released the active ingredient at rates of 81.83% and 41.62%, respectively. The developed MA-AgNPs formulation was converted into a gel by using Carbopol 934 as a gelling agent. The spreadability and extrudability of MA-AgNPs gel were found to be 16.20 and 15.190, respectively, demonstrating that the gel may spread very easily across the skin's surface. The MA-AgNPs formulation demonstrated improved antioxidant activity in comparison to pure MA. The MA-AgNPs sunscreen gel formulation displayed non-Newtonian pseudoplastic behaviour, which is typical of skin-care products, and was found to be stable during the stability studies. The sun protection factor (SPF) value of MA-AgNPG was found to be 35.75. In contrast to the hydroalcoholic Rhodamine B solution (5.0 µm), the CLSM of rat skin treated with the Rhodamine B-loaded AgNPs formulation showed a deeper penetration of 35.0 µm, indicating the AgNPs formulation was able to pass the barrier and reach the skin's deeper layers for more efficient delivery of the active ingredient. This can help with skin conditions where deeper penetration is necessary for efficacy. Overall, the results indicated that the BBD-optimized MA-AgNPs provided some of the most important benefits over conventional MA formulations for the topical delivery of methyl anthranilate.

Exploring Mycosporine-like Amino Acid UV-Absorbing Natural Products for a New Generation of Environmentally Friendly Sunscreens

Human skin needs additional protection from damaging ultraviolet radiation (UVR: 280-400 nm). Harmful UVR exposure leads to DNA damage and the development of skin cancer. Available sunscreens offer chemical protection from detrimental sun radiation to a certain extent. However, many synthetic sunscreens do not provide sufficient UVR protection due to the lack of photostability of their UV-absorbing active ingredients and/or the lack of ability to prevent the formation of free radicals, inevitably leading to skin damage. In addition, synthetic sunscreens may negatively affect human skin, causing irritation, accelerating skin aging and even resulting in allergic reactions. Beyond the potential negative effect on human health, some synthetic sunscreens have been shown to have a harmful impact on the environment. Consequently, identifying photostable, biodegradable, non-toxic, and renewable natural UV filters is imperative to address human health needs and provide a sustainable environmental solution. In nature, marine, freshwater, and terrestrial organisms are protected from harmful UVR through several important photoprotective mechanisms, including the synthesis of UV-absorbing compounds such as mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs). Beyond MAAs, several other promising, natural UV-absorbing products could be considered for the future development of natural sunscreens. This review investigates the damaging impact of UVR on human health and the necessity of using sunscreens for UV protection, specifically UV-absorbing natural products that are more environmentally friendly than synthetic UV filters. Critical challenges and limitations related to using MAAs in sunscreen formulations are also evaluated. Furthermore, we explain how the genetic diversity of MAA biosynthetic pathways may be linked to their bioactivities and assess MAAs' potential for applications in human health.

Development and evaluation of sunscreen cream containing solid lipid nanoparticles of Spinacia oleraceae

More research is needed to understand the benefits of environmentally safe and human-friendly herbal-based sunscreen agents against ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Because of the toxicity of synthetic chemicals in photoprotective agents, researchers were increasingly focusing on herbal photoprotective formulations. The photoprotective agent's skin retention can be considerably improved by forming solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN). The study's objective is to evaluate the photoprotective potential of sunscreen cream containing spinach (Spinacia oleracea)-loaded SLN. A solvent emulsification technique was used to develop the spinach-loaded SLN. The various characterization techniques of the developed SLN were performed. Out of all the formulations, the optimized one was fitted into cream and estimated for its photoprotective action. The images obtained from scanning electron microscopy (SEM) revealed the morphological characteristics of the prepared SLN. The sunscreen cream's viscosity, spreadability, extrudability, and release rate were within acceptable limits. The formulation's in vitro and in vivo sun protection factor (SPF) was reported to be 15.9 and 14.75, respectively. The results indicated that the prepared formulation possesses good photoprotective action. The accelerated stability tests were carried out with no noticeable changes in the parameters. Our work demonstrated the possibility of using spinach-loaded SLN as a photoprotective agent in cosmetic formulations.

A systematic review on traditional, ayurvedic, and herbal approaches to treat solar erythema

Solar erythema is a kind of radiation burn that strikes living tissue, such as skin, that arises from overexposure to UV radiation often from the sun. Ordinary symptoms of solar erythema include reddish skin, specifically warm to touch, overall tiredness, hurting, and mild whirl. Sunscreen contains SPF value, which measures how much ultraviolet radiation is needed to cause sunburn on sunscreen-applied skin, which is proportional to the quantity of solar energy needed to cause sunburn on unprotected skin. Between 30 and 50 SPF value is sufficient to protect from sunburn, especially for the people who are more sensitive to sunburn. Sunscreen also protects from sun damage including dark spots and discoloration and helps to keep skin smooth, spotless, and more even. Chemical-based sunscreen is widely used because it effectively protects the skin from sun damage, but it clogs pores and can be problematic for sensitive skin as it can cause itching or stinging of the skin and pus in the hair follicles. On the other hand, herbal sunscreen absorbs light preferentially over the range of 280-320 mm without causing any harm to the skin and eyes. Ayurveda rejuvenates dull skin by regaining the skin's natural glow and radiance. This review concludes the damaging and harmful effects of UV rays, along with various traditional, ayurvedic, and herbal approaches to treat solar erythema naturally.

Molecular basis of skin photoaging and therapeutic interventions by plant-derived natural product ingredients: A comprehensive review

Skin areas exposed to ultraviolet radiation (UV) from sunlight are more prone to photoaging than unexposed areas evidenced by several signs which include skin dryness, irregular pigmentation, lentigines, hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, and decreased elasticity. Plant-based natural product ingredients with therapeutic potential against skin photoaging are gaining more attention. This article aims the reviewing the research work done in exploring the cellular and molecular mechanisms involved in UV-induced skin photoaging, followed by summarizing the mechanistic insights involved in its therapeutics by natural product-based ingredients. In the mechanistic section of the convoluted procedure of photoaging, we described the effect of UV radiation (UVR) on different cellular macromolecules (direct damage) and subsequently, the deleterious consequences of UVR-generated reactive oxygen species (indirect damage) and signaling pathways activated or inhibited by UV induced ROS generation in various cellular pathologies of skin photoaging like inflammation, extracellular matrix degradation, apoptosis, mitochondrial dysfunction, and immune suppression. We also discussed the effect of UV radiation on the adipose tissue, and transient receptor potential cation channel V of photoaging skin. In the past few decades, mechanistic studies performed in this area have deciphered various therapeutic targets, opening avenues for different available therapeutic options against this pathological condition. So the remaining portion of the review deals with various natural product-based therapeutic agents available against skin photodamage.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Host-Derived Cytotoxic Agents in Chronic Inflammation and Disease Progression

At inflammatory sites, cytotoxic agents are released and generated from invading immune cells and damaged tissue cells. The further fate of the inflammation highly depends on the presence of antagonizing principles that are able to inactivate these host-derived cytotoxic agents. As long as the affected tissues are well equipped with ready-to-use protective mechanisms, no damage by cytotoxic agents occurs and resolution of inflammation is initiated. However, long-lasting and severe immune responses can be associated with the decline, exhaustion, or inactivation of selected antagonizing principles. Hence, cytotoxic agents are only partially inactivated and contribute to damage of yet-unperturbed cells. Consequently, a chronic inflammatory process results. In this vicious circle of permanent cell destruction, not only novel cytotoxic elements but also novel alarmins and antigens are liberated from affected cells. In severe cases, very low protection leads to organ failure, sepsis, and septic shock. In this review, the major classes of host-derived cytotoxic agents (reactive species, oxidized heme proteins and free heme, transition metal ions, serine proteases, matrix metalloproteases, and pro-inflammatory peptides), their corresponding protective principles, and resulting implications on the pathogenesis of diseases are highlighted.

Mulberroside F from In Vitro Culture of Mulberry and the Potential Use of the Root Extracts in Cosmeceutical Applications

Mulberry (Morus spp.) is primarily used in sericulture, and its uses also extend to the food, pharmaceutical, and cosmetic industries. Mulberry extracts are rich in many bioactive compounds that exhibit a wide range of biological properties. Mulberroside F (Moracin M-6, 3'-di-O-β-D-glucopyranoside), one of the bioactive compounds found in mulberry, has previously been reported as a whitening agent by inhibiting melanin synthesis and exhibiting antioxidant effects. However, there is still limited information on the presence of this compound in plants cultured in vitro. In this study, the mulberroside F content, biochemical, and cytotoxic properties of the extracts from mulberry cultured in vitro were determined. The results revealed that both root and callus were found to be a potential source of mulberroside F. Furthermore, the mulberroside F content was positively correlated with the inhibitory effects on tyrosinase activity. Cell viability assay also revealed that crude extract of the mulberry root has no cytotoxicity in both human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT) and Vero cells. Taken together, mulberry tissue culture represents a possible alternative and continuous production of mulberroside F, which could be further utilized in cosmeceutical applications.

Assessment of Brassica oleraceae L. (Brassicaceae) extract loaded ethosomal gel as a versatile vesicular carrier system for dermocosmetic application: A noninvasive split-faced study

BACKGROUND

Plant extracts with rich ascorbic acid contents have greater antioxidant capability; extensively employed in skin beautifying products and protect skin from detrimental photodamaging environmental effects. Brassica oleraceae is having a substantial prospective toward cosmeceuticals owed by its profound activity against oxidation.

AIM

To develop an effective topical ethosomal gel loaded with Brassica oleraceae leaves extract with significant antioxidant activity.

METHODOLOGY

Valuation of antioxidant capability of plant leaves extract by 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), and quantification of ascorbic acid was done through high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Ethosomes were prepared by cold method. Optimized suspension containing extract was incorporated in 2% Carbopol gel (test) along with extract solution (control). Noninvasive in vivo studies were performed for final product to assess its effects on skin by measuring melanin and erythema, sebum level, elasticity, moistness level, facial pores count and their area, skin wrinkling, and smoothness.

RESULTS

Brassica oleraceae (red cabbage) leaves extract exhibited significant antioxidant potential (85.64 ± 1.28%) with 14.22 μg/g of ascorbic acid; expressed prominent cosmetic effects in terms of skin melanin, erythema, sebum, elasticity, hydration, facial pores, wrinkles, and smoothness when incorporated in ethosomes. ANOVA test also exhibited positive significant (p ≤ 0.05) effects on skin.

CONCLUSION

Brassica oleraceae extract is a strong antioxidant with remarkable dermocosmetic benefits for skin.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Review on Plant-Based Management in Combating Antimicrobial Resistance - Mechanistic Perspective

Antimicrobial resistance (AMR) occurs when microbes no longer respond to any pharmacological agents, rendering the conventional antimicrobial agents ineffective. AMR has been classified as one of the top 10 life-threatening global health problems needed multilevel attention and global cooperation to attain the Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) according to the World Health Organization (WHO), making the discovery of a new and effective antimicrobial agent a priority. The recommended treatments for drug-resistant microbes are available but limited. Furthermore, the transformation of microbes over time increases the risk of developing drug resistance. Hence, plant metabolites such as terpenes, phenolic compounds and alkaloids are widely studied due to their antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal and antiparasitic effects. Plant-derived antimicrobials are preferred due to their desirable efficacy and safety profile. Plant metabolites work by targeting microbial cell membranes, interfering with the synthesis of microbial DNA/RNA/enzymes and disrupting quorum sensing and efflux pump expression. They also work synergistically with conventional antibiotics to enhance antimicrobial effects. Accordingly, this review aims to identify currently available pharmacological therapies against microbes and AMR, as well as to discuss the importance of plant and secondary metabolites as a possible solution for AMR together with their mechanisms of action. All the information was obtained from government databases, WHO websites, PubMed, Springer, Google Scholar and Science Direct. Based on the information obtained, AMR is regarded as a significant warning to global healthcare. Plant derivatives such as secondary metabolites may be considered as potential therapeutic targets to mitigate the non-ending AMR.

Beneficial Effect of Gastrodia elata Blume and Poria cocos Wolf Administration on Acute UVB Irradiation by Alleviating Inflammation through Promoting the Gut-Skin Axis

Bioactive compounds in some herbs can, directly and indirectly, protect against photoaging. We evaluated the effects of Gastrodia elata Blume (GE) and Poria cocos Wolf (PC) water extracts on ultraviolet (UV) B-induced skin lesions by acute UVB exposure in ICR mice and explored their mechanism of action. After removing the hair on the back of the mice, UVB (280–310 nm) was exposed to the back for 30 min to induce skin damage. Four UVB exposure groups were divided into the following according to the local application (1,3-butanediol extract) on the dorsal skin and oral intake (0.3 g water extract/kg body weight/day): 1,3-butanediol and cellulose(control; UV-Con), retinoic acid (positive-control; UV-Positive), PC extracts (UV-PC), and GE extracts (UV-GE). The fifth group had no UVB exposure with the same treatment as the UV-Con (Normal-control). The erythema, burns, erosion, and wounds of the UV-PC and UV-PC groups were alleviated, and the most significant improvements occurred in the UV-PC group. PC and GE reduced the thickness of the dorsal skin tissue, the penetration of mast cells, and malondialdehyde contents. The mRNA expression of TNF-α, IL-13, and IL-4, inflammatory factors, were also reduced significantly in the dorsal skin of the UV-PC and UV-GE groups. UV-PC, UV-GE, and UV-Positive showed improvements in UV-induced intestinal tissue inflammation. UV-Con deteriorated the intestinal morphology, and PC and GE alleviated it. The α-diversity of the fecal microbiota decreased in the UV-control, and UV-PC and UV-GE prevented the decrease. Fecal metagenome analysis revealed increased propionate biosynthesis in the UV-PC group but decreased lipopolysaccharide biosynthesis in the UV-PC and UV-GE groups compared to UV-Con. In conclusion, the local application and intake of PC and GE had significant therapeutic effects on acute UV-induced skin damage by reducing oxidative stress and proinflammatory cytokines, potentially promoting the gut-microbiota-gut-skin axis.

Development of Phytocosmeceutical Microemulgel Containing Flaxseed Extract and Its In Vitro and In Vivo Characterization

Antioxidants from natural sources are extensively attaining consideration to avert the skin from damage and aging caused by free radicals. Flaxseed (Linum usitatissimum L.), a natural therapeutic agent, was meant to be explored cosmeceutical by quantifying its potential phytoconstituents and to be incorporated into a microemulgel for topical use. Hydroalcoholic fractions (both methanolic and ethanolic; 80%) flaxseed extracts were subjected to phytochemical screening by quantifying total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and high-performance liquid chromatography-ultraviolet (HPLC-UV), and for biological activities through 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) assay, tyrosinase inhibition assay, and sun protection factor (SPF). Ethanolic fraction was selected for further study by TPC (18.75 mg gallic acid equivalent/g) and TFC (1.34 mg quercetin equivalent/g). HPLC-UV analysis showed the existence of benzoic, quercetin, caffeic, vanillic, p-coumaric, gallic, cinnamic, syringic, and sinapic acids. Biological activities showed 87.00%, 72.00%, and 21.75 values for DPPH assay, tyrosinase inhibition, and SPF assays, respectively. An oil-in-water (OW) microemulsion containing the flaxseed extract, with 99.20 nm Zeta size, −19.3 Zeta potential and 0.434 polydispersity index was developed and incorporated in Carbopol-940 gel matrix to formulate an active microemulgel with 59.15% release in in vitro studies. The successfully formulated stable active microemulgel produced statistically significant effects (p < 0.05), in comparison to a placebo, on skin erythema, melanin, sebum, moisture, and elasticity, in a noninvasive in vivo study performed on 13 healthy human female volunteers. Other cosmeceutical products can also be formulated from flaxseed, making it a considerable candidate for further utilization in the pharmaceutical industry.

Photo-Protective and Anti-Inflammatory Effects of Antidesma thwaitesianum Müll. Arg. Fruit Extract against UVB-Induced Keratinocyte Cell Damage

The main cause of most skin cancers is damage from UVB from sunlight, which penetrate the skin surface and induce inflammation. For this reason, this study aims to identify natural products with photo-protection properties and their mode of action by using the UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocyte model. Antidesma thwaitesianum fruit extracts at 25, 50, and 100 µg/mL recovered cell viability following UVB exposure in a dose-dependent manner. Cell survival was associated with the reduction in intracellular ROS and NO. In addition, we showed that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract lowered the phosphorylation level of two MAPK-signaling pathways: p38 MAPKs and JNKs. The resulting lower MAPK activation decreased their downstream pro-inflammatory cascade through COX-2 expression and subsequently reduced the PGE₂ proinflammatory mediator level. The photoprotective effects of the fruit extract were correlated with the presence of polyphenolic compounds, including cyanidin, ferulic acid, caffeic acid, vanillic acid, and protocatechuic acid, which have been previously described as antioxidant and anti-inflammation. Together, we demonstrated that the pre-treatment with the fruit extract had photo-protection by inhibiting oxidative stress and subsequently lowered stress-induced MAPK responses. Therefore, this fresh fruit is worthy of investigation to be utilized as a skincare ingredient for preventing UVB-induced skin damage.

Cosmeceuticals: A Newly Expanding Industry in South Africa

Africa is counted amongst the cosmetic market contributors; however, South Africa’s remarkable plant diversity is still largely untapped in terms of its potential for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. Thus, we aim to provide a critical assessment of the advancements made in South African cosmeceuticals with emphasis towards online local companies/brands that are manufactured by small, medium and micro enterprises (SMMEs). For the current study, we limited our search of herbal cosmeceutical products to SMMEs with online websites, or products traded in other online cosmetic directories such as ‘Faithful to Nature’ and ‘African Botanicals’ using a simple Google search. We recorded more than 50 South African SMME companies/brands involved in the trade of cosmeceuticals. Skin and hair care were the major product categories widely traded in these online platforms. Furthermore, few patents were recorded from South African researchers and institutions thereof, which is quite alarming considering the extensive research that has been undertaken to study these commercially valuable plants. Based on the increasing number of new products and the wide pool of economically important plants coupled to their associated rich indigenous knowledge systems, the cosmeceutical sector can contribute to the economy, job creation, entrepreneurship skills, socio-economic development and intellectual property generation.

Biopolymeric nanoparticles based effective delivery of bioactive compounds toward the sustainable development of anticancerous therapeutics

Nowadays, effective cancer therapy is a global concern, and recent advances in nanomedicine are crucial. Cancer is one of the major fatal diseases and a leading cause of death globally. Nanotechnology provides rapidly evolving delivery systems in science for treating diseases in a site-specific manner using natural bioactive compounds, which are gaining widespread attention. Nanotechnology combined with bioactives is a very appealing and relatively new area in cancer treatment. Natural bioactive compounds have the potential to be employed as a chemotherapeutic agent in the treatment of cancer, in addition to their nutritional benefits. Alginate, pullulan, cellulose, polylactic acid, chitosan, and other biopolymers have been effectively used in the delivery of therapeutics to a specific site. Because of their biodegradability, biopolymeric nanoparticles (BNPs) have received a lot of attention in the development of new anticancer drug delivery systems. Biopolymer-based nanoparticle systems can be made in a variety of ways. These systems have developed as a cost-effective and environmentally friendly solution to boost treatment efficacy. Effective drug delivery systems with improved availability, increased selectivity, and lower toxicity are needed. Recent research findings and current knowledge on the use of BNPs in the administration of bioactive chemicals in cancer therapy are summarized in this review.

Effects of Structure on the Solubility of UV Filters

In recent years, one of the most concerning topics in healthcare is the constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light being the cause of numerous skin diseases. This issue created a keen interest in sun-care cosmetics, and particularly in sunscreens, since it has been proven to significantly reduce human skin disorders. Usually, sunscreens are formulated as emulsions with organic UV-absorbers dissolved in the oil phase; thus, the solubility of these UV-filters in the emollients is crucial. In this work we expose the properties of different emollients, correlating the chemical structure with the ability to dissolve organic UV-filters.

HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, antioxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut

Introduction

Traditional medicine has an important place in human history and this since antiquity. Indeed, during Egyptian and Chinese civilization era, many detailed manuscripts, describing the therapeutic effect of plants, were found which suggest that folk medicine is the basis of the actual medicine.

Objective

To investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the n-butanol (n-BuOH) and ethyl acetate (EA) extracts of the aerial part of Centaurea tougourensis.

Methods

The phytochemical evaluation was done based on HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), while the hemostatic effect was performed using plasma recalcification time (PRT) method. The antidiabetic capacity was investigated by alpha-amylase inhibition assay and the photoprotective test was evaluated by the measurement of sun protection factor (SPF).

Results

13 phenolic compounds were identified in both extracts of C. tougourensis. These extracts showed antioxidant, haemostatic, antidiabetic and photoprotective properties with a dose-dependent manner. Amounts of n-BuOH activities were found higher, with a respective IC50 value of 0.72±0.07 μg/ml in DPPH assay, an A0.50 value lower than 3.125 μg/ml in CUPRAC assay besides a shortening rate percentage of coagulation (86.71%) in haemostatic assay, a moderate inhibition effect on alpha amylase activity with an IC50 value of (711.5±0.03 μg/ml) and a maximum sun protection factor of (56.035). These results were mostly found highly significant (p<0.001) when compared to respective standards.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated some pharmacological effects of C. tougourensis which suggests that our plant could be a good candidate to treat some illnesses related to oxidative stress, bleeding or skin cancer.

Amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates: biocompatible ROS-scavenging sunscreens

This paper reports on a comprehensive study of the UV-shielding properties (namely, the sun protection factor and the factor of protection against UV-A radiation) and cytotoxicity (including photocytotoxicity) of amorphous and crystalline cerium(IV) phosphates. It has been shown that cerium(IV) phosphate NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ is characterised by UV-shielding properties that are comparable to those of nanocrystalline TiO₂ and CeO₂. Moreover, cerium(IV) phosphates did not show toxicity towards cell cultures of NCTC L929 line mouse fibroblasts and human mesenchymal stem cells, in a wide range of concentrations, and even enhanced the proliferative activity of the latter. In a model study of the photoprotective properties of cerium(IV) phosphates on human mesenchymal stem cells, the pronounced protective effect of NH₄Ce₂(PO₄)₃ was observed, which was comparable to the shielding action of nanocrystalline CeO₂. The results have shown that tetravalent cerium phosphates can be considered as promising UV-filters for sunscreen applications.

Unravelling the photoprotective effects of freshwater alga Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault against ultraviolet radiations

Several studies have suggested the direct relationship between skin complications, air pollution, and UV irradiation. UVB radiations cause various skin complications such as skin aging, skin inflammation, and skin cancer. The current study is designed to develop an ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA-loaded topical gel and to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. MAA was extracted from the Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault (N. commune) and characterized by HPLC-PDA (with a retention time 2.6 min), UV-Visible (absorption maximum 334 nm), and mass spectrometry (m/z 346.2) techniques. The methanolic (10%) solution of MAA (50-150 μl) was dissolved in propylene glycol and mixed with hydrated gel (1.5 % of carbopol 934) by using EDTA (0.3%). Eight (F1-F8) formulations were evaluated for their physico-chemical characters. F7 retained its physio-chemical characters for 90 days. Further selected formulation (F7) was evaluated for its gelling strength (GSg), gelling temperature (GT), melting temperature (MT), apparent viscosity (cp), molecular mass (MMS), pH, physical appearance, homogeneity, and spreading diameter (SD). The stability study of the fabricated gel formulation was done as per International Committee on Harmonization guidelines and sunscreen potential was determined by in vitro sunscreen UV method. Findings revealed that GSg (337 ± 1.7 g/cm²), GT (22.8 ± 0.2 °C), cp (71.1 ± 0.2), MMS (424.177 ± 0.7), pH (6.2 ± 0.04), and SD (56 ± 0.2). For in vitro sunscreen potential determination, different concentrations of F7 (50-150 μl) were prepared. Topical application of the F7 displayed UV-A/UV-B photoprotection with SPF 1.13 folds greater then marketed formulation (Lotus herbals UV screen gel). Based on these findings, it was concluded that methanolic extract derived from N. commune contains Porphyra-334 which can be potentially used as photo protective compound in several cosmetic preparations. Development of sunscreen gel from Nostoc commune The current investigation is designed to develop ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA (mycosporine amino acid)-loaded topical gel from Nostoc commune to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. LCMS characterization of HPLC-PDA purified MAA from N. commune methanolic extract demonstrated a prominent ion peak of a protonated molecule ([M + H]⁺) at m/z 346.2 [M+H]+ value confirmed the presence of Porphyra-334. Porphyra-334 is a broad-spectrum sun-protective compound evidenced for its potential in blocking UVA and UVB (Bhatia et al. 2010). Prepared sunscreen formulations remain stable for prolonged period and provide broad-spectrum protection against harmful UV range.

Plant-Derived Antioxidants: Significance in Skin Health and the Ageing Process

Natural substances have traditionally been used in skin care for centuries. There is now an ongoing search for new natural bioactives that not only promote skin health but also protect the skin against various harmful factors, including ultraviolet radiation and free radicals. Free radicals, by disrupting defence and restoration mechanisms, significantly contribute to skin damage and accelerate ageing. Natural compounds present in plants exhibit antioxidant properties and the ability to scavenge free radicals. The increased interest in plant chemistry is linked to the growing interest in plant materials as natural antioxidants. This review focuses on aromatic and medicinal plants as a source of antioxidant substances, such as polyphenols, tocopherols, carotenoids, ascorbic acid, and macromolecules (including polysaccharides and peptides) as well as components of essential oils, and their role in skin health and the ageing process.

Herbal products as skincare therapeutic agents against ultraviolet radiation-induced skin disorders

This paper aims to highlight the pharmacological aspects of listed herbal skincare products used for the treatment of various disorders caused due to ultraviolet radiation. The pharmacological aspects include safety and efficacy validation as per regulatory guidelines following internationally accepted scientific principles for their development of skincare products. Herbal products have always been used traditionally for the treatment of various skin ailments and have become more prevalent because of their safety and high efficacy benefits. The incorporation of synthetic molecules and chemical substances in the different medicinal and pharmaceutical formulations is the leading cause of the dermal toxicity. Therefore, the developments of herbal skincare products containing scientifically validated herbal ingredients have better acceptance, respect, and belief in the society. The listed herbal products in this review can help take forward the commercial development of skincare products for therapeutic as well as beauty care purposes from such plants.

The Effect of Comfrey on Enoxaparin-Induced Bruise in Patients with Acute Coronary Syndrome: A Randomised Clinical Trial

Objectives

Bruising is an important side effect of enoxaparin injection. Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) is used to treat different types of wounds, bone fractures, and bruising in traditional medicine in many countries for centuries. This study aimed to determine the effects of the Comfrey ointment on the bruise size and color following enoxaparin injection.

Methods

This double-blind randomized clinical trial was conducted on 80 patients with acute coronary syndrome (ACS). The participants were randomly divided into two groups of 40, namely Comfrey and Placebo. Changes in bruise size and color in both groups were assessed daily before and after the intervention.

Results

The Comfrey and Placebo groups were homogeneous in demographic and clinical variables. A downward trend was observed in the bruise size in both groups throughout the study. However, the bruise size was smaller in the Comfrey group than the Placebo group on day 2-5 of the intervention. Moreover, there was a significant difference in bruise color between the groups, with a shorter healing course in the Comfrey group.

Conclusion

The Comfrey ointment accelerated the healing process of enoxaparin injection-induced bruising in patients with ACS. It is recommended as a safe and simple approach for these patients.

Protective effects of galangin against H2O2/UVB-induced dermal fibroblast collagen degradation via hsa-microRNA-4535-mediated TGFβ/Smad signaling

This study aimed to investigate the mechanism underlying the protective effects of galangin against H₂O₂/UVB-induced damage using in vitro and in vivo models of photodamage. Moreover, we identified the involvement of miRNA regulation in this process. The H₂O₂/UVB-treated HS68 human dermal fibroblasts and UVB-induced C57BL/6J nude mice were used as in vitro and in vivo models of photodamage. The results showed that galangin treatment alleviated H₂O₂/UVB-induced reduction in cell viability, TGFβ/Smad signaling impairment, and dermal aging. Based on the results of microRNA array analyses and database searches, hsa-miR-4535 was identified as a potential candidate miRNA that targets Smad4. In vitro, galangin treatment activated Smad2/3/4 complex and inhibited hsa-miR-4535 expression in H2O2/UVB-exposed cells. In vivo, topical application of low (12 mg/kg) and high doses (24 mg/kg) of galangin to the dorsal skin of C57BL/6J nude mice significantly alleviated UVB-induced skin photodamage by promoting TGFβ/Smad collagen synthesis signaling, reducing epidermal hyperplasia, wrinkle formation, and skin senescence, as well as inhibiting hsa-miR-4535 expression. Taken together, our findings indicate a link between hsa-miR-4535 and TGFβ/Smad collagen synthesis signaling and suggest these factors to be involved in the photo-protective mechanism of galangin in dermal fibroblasts against H₂O₂/UVB-induced aging. The evidence indicated that galangin with anti-aging properties can be considered as a supplement in skin care products.

Two superior antioxidants: Ferulic acid and ascorbic acid in reducing signs of photoaging-A split-face comparative study

The assessment of the signs of photoaging in mexametric (melanin and erythema index), corneometric (hydration level), and cutometric (elasticity) examination after the treatment with ascorbic acid and ferulic acid. This study was conducted in a group of 20 women aged 39-61 (mean age 54), with Fitzpatrick skin types II and III. The study included a series of eight treatments performed once a week. Two layers of peeling, based on 14% ferulic acid (left half of the face) and 12% l-ascorbic acid serum (right half of the face) were applied. To determine skin parameters: moisture, elasticity, melanin level, and erythema intensity, the Multi Probe Adapter Systems (Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH, Köln, Germany) were used. Additionally, before and after the series of treatments, photographs were taken with the standardized photographic system Fotomedicus (Elfo®). The results of mexametric measurement for melanin level and erythema intensity were statistically significant (p < 0.0001) for both acids. Slightly greater lightening of the skin was demonstrated for ascorbic acid. The results of corneometric measurement of hydration level for ferulic acid and ascorbic acid were both statistically significant (p < 0.0001). First beneficial changes in improved elasticity could be observed as early as after 8 weeks but the increase in flexibility grew with time (after 12 weeks). These changes affected both acids and all measurement points. The changes in parameters were highly statistically significant (p < 0.0001). Based on the conducted research, it is not possible to state which of the tested acids is more effective in reducing the symptoms of photoaging. Both acids (ascorbic and ferulic), which have a high antioxidant potential, affect the measurable parameters of the skin: pigmentation (melanin index), erythema (erythema index), skin hydration, and elasticity.

Melanin decolorization by lysosome-related extract in Saccharomyces cerevisiae modified to overproduce glutathione peroxidase

All eukaryotes have lysosomes that contain hydrolytic enzymes, such as protease, that degrade waste materials and cellular fragments. As a cellular organelle, lysosomes function as the digestive system of the cell, serving both to degrade material taken up from outside the cell and to digest obsolete components of the cell itself. In a previous study, melanin compounds were bleached using lysosome-related organelle extract (LOE) in which glutathione peroxidase (GPX) contributed decisively to melanin decolorization. In this study, Saccharomyces cerevisiae was engineered to overproduce GPX, which increases the melanin color reduction activity of LOE. In addition, the peroxidase activity of the recombinant yeast was measured for each compartment. In spite of the modification to overexpress the GPX protein, with the peroxidase activity of the lysosome fraction specifically higher, the overall peroxidase activity of the cells remained constant. The overexpression of GPX2 among the GPX present in S. cerevisiae increased both the melanin-decolorization activity and the peroxidase activity of LOE. These results indicate that the peroxidase activity is related to the melanin decomposition and antioxidant enzymes such as GPX. In an artificial skin tissue test, the LOE extracted from the recombinant yeast was efficient in reducing the melanin. These results confirmed the enzyme's ability to penetrate corneous tissue, and they suggest the possibility of further development as a new whitening cosmetic. KEY POINTS: • Modification of Saccharomyces cerevisiae to overexpress glutathione peroxidase (GPX). • The lysosome fraction of the recombinant strain enhanced the decolorizing function. • The LOE penetrates the skin barrier and works effectively on artificial skin tissue.

Skin Care Formulations and Lipid Carriers as Skin Moisturizing Agents

Skin care formulations have evolved as the interaction of health and beauty products for the skin. Their benefits are based on the combination of cosmetic active ingredients and targeted application. Cosmetic actives have been used in novel formulations for decades (sunscreens, anti-aging treatments, etc.), but the problems with their low solubility, low penetration, and physicochemical instability when applied to the skin have yet to be solved. One way to circumvent these shortcomings is to use lipid carriers, which are known to play an important role in the solubility of poorly soluble compounds by facilitating skin permeation and improving stability. This review addresses recent advances in skin care products that use novel nanotechnology-based lipid systems (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles, etc.) to deliver moisturizing cosmetic actives and improve product efficacy.

Investigation of Photoprotective, Anti-Inflammatory, Antioxidant Capacities and LC-ESI-MS Phenolic Profile of Astragalus gombiformis Pomel

Plant-derived compounds have recently been gaining popularity as skincare factors due to their ability to absorb ultraviolet radiations and their anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. In this light, this work aimed to evaluate in vitro the pharmacological activities of the butanolic extract prepared from the aerial parts of Astragalus gombiformis Pomel, an endemic species to southern Algeria. The sun protection factor was used to assess the photoprotective effect (SPF), the protein denaturation method to determine the anti-inflammatory activity, and brine shrimp nauplii and OxHLIA assay, respectively, to assess the cytotoxicity and antioxidant capacity of A. gombiformis. In addition, LC–ESI–MS analysis was employed for the characterization of the phenolic constituents of A. gombiformis. The results showed that A. gombiformis had high capacity for absorbing UV radiations with an SPF of 37.78 ± 0.85 and significant anti-inflammatory activity with a percentage inhibition of 75.38% which is close to that of diclofenac and ketoprofen. In addition, A. gombiformis was found to have effective cytotoxicity against Artemia nauplii with a DC50 value of about 44.7 µg/mL, but a weak hemolytic effect against human erythrocytes. LC–ESI–MS results detected the presence of 17 phenolic compounds with a predominance of cirsiliol, silymarin, quercitrin (quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside), and kaempferol. Taken together, these results suggest that A. gombiformis extract could be used as a skincare agent in cosmetic formulations, providing excellent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory protection, allowing the treatment of skin conditions, as well as a pharmaceutical agent with multidimensional applications.

The New Challenge of Green Cosmetics: Natural Food Ingredients for Cosmetic Formulations

Nowadays, much attention is paid to issues such as ecology and sustainability. Many consumers choose “green cosmetics”, which are environmentally friendly creams, makeup, and beauty products, hoping that they are not harmful to health and reduce pollution. Moreover, the repeated mini-lock downs during the COVID-19 pandemic have fueled the awareness that body beauty is linked to well-being, both external and internal. As a result, consumer preferences for makeup have declined, while those for skincare products have increased. Nutricosmetics, which combines the benefits derived from food supplementation with the advantages of cosmetic treatments to improve the beauty of our body, respond to the new market demands. Food chemistry and cosmetic chemistry come together to promote both inside and outside well-being. A nutricosmetic optimizes the intake of nutritional microelements to meet the needs of the skin and skin appendages, improving their conditions and delaying aging, thus helping to protect the skin from the aging action of environmental factors. Numerous studies in the literature show a significant correlation between the adequate intake of these supplements, improved skin quality (both aesthetic and histological), and the acceleration of wound-healing. This review revised the main foods and bioactive molecules used in nutricosmetic formulations, their cosmetic effects, and the analytical techniques that allow the dosage of the active ingredients in the food.

Herbal Extracts as Potential Antioxidant, Anti-Aging, Anti-Inflammatory, and Whitening Cosmeceutical Ingredients

The aim of this research was to investigate and compare the antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities of 16 herbal extracts for topical application in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products. Herbal plant materials were extracted by infusion in boiled water for 15 min. The total phenolic content and total flavonoid content of each extract were investigated by the Folin-Ciocalteu and aluminum chloride methods, respectively. Antioxidant activities were investigated using 2,2'-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and a ferric reducing antioxidant power assay. Anti-tyrosinase and anti-aging activities were investigated using an in vitro enzymatic-spectrophotometric method. Anti-inflammatory activities were investigated using an enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay. The findings show that the Stevia rebaudiana extract has the most significant levels of both phenols and flavonoids (p<0.05). The S. rebaudiana, Rosa damascene, and Phyllanthus emblica extracts possessed the most significant antioxidant activities (p<0.05) and a promising whitening effect with moderate anti-tyrosinase activities. Furthermore, the Echinacea purpurea extract possessed the most significant anti-collagenase (78.5±0.0 %), anti-elastase (69.0±1.4 %), and anti-hyaluronidase activity (64.2±0.3 %). The Morus alba extract possessed the most significant anti-inflammatory activity since it could inhibit the secretion of interleukin-6 and tumor necrosis factor-α (p<0.05). Therefore, these herbal extracts have promising skin benefits and have potential for use as active ingredients in cosmetic/cosmeceutical products.

A comprehensive review on the techniques for coconut oil extraction and its application

Virgin coconut oil is a useful substance in our daily life. It contains a high percentage of lauric acid which has many health benefits. The current industry has developed several methods to extract the oil out from the coconut fruit. This review paper aims to highlight several common extraction processes used in modern industries that includes cold extraction, hot extraction, low-pressure extraction, chilling, freezing and thawing method, fermentation, centrifugation, enzymatic extraction and supercritical fluid carbon dioxide. Different extraction methods will produce coconut oil with different yields and purities of lauric acid, thus having different uses and applications. Challenges that are faced by the industries in extracting the coconut oil using different methods of extraction are important to be explored so that advancement in the oil extraction technology can be done for efficient downstream processing. This study is vital as it provides insights that could enhance the production of coconut oil.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

The Protective Effect of Polyherbal Formulation, Harak Formula, on UVA-Induced Photoaging of Human Dermal Fibroblasts and Mouse Skin via Promoting Nrf2-Regulated Antioxidant Defense

Polyherbal formulation combining multiple herbs is suggested to achieve enhanced therapeutic effects and reduce toxicity. Harak herbal formula (HRF) extracts were proposed to regulate skin responses to UVR through their ability to suppress UVA-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and pigmentation via promoting antioxidant defenses in in vitro models. Therefore, natural products targeting Nrf2 (nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2)-regulated antioxidant response might represent promising anti-photoaging candidates. Hesperetin (HSP) was suggested as a putative bioactive compound of the HRF, as previously shown by its chemical profiling using the liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (LC-QTOF-MS). In this study, we explored the anti-photoaging effects of HRF extracts and HSP on normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDFs) and mouse skin exposed to UVA irradiation. Pretreatment of NHDFs with HRF extracts and HSP protected against UVA (8 J/cm²)-mediated cytotoxicity and reactive oxygen species (ROS) formation. The HRF and HSP pretreatment also attenuated the UVA-induced MMP-1 activity and collagen depletion concomitant with an upregulation of Nrf2 activity and its downstream genes (GST and NQO-1). Moreover, our findings provided the in vivo relevance to the in vitro anti-photoaging effects of HRF as topical application of the extracts (10, 30 and 100 mg/cm²) and HSP (0.3, 1, and 3 mg/cm²) 1 h before UVA exposure 3 times per week for 2 weeks (a total dose of 60 J/cm²) mitigated MMP-1 upregulation, collagen loss in correlation with enhanced Nrf2 nuclear accumulation and its target protein GST and NQO-1 as well as reduced 8-hydroxy-2′-deoxyguanosine (8-OHdG) in irradiated mouse skin. Thus, our findings revealed that HRF extracts and HSP attenuated UVA-induced photoaging via upregulating Nrf2, together with their abilities to reduce ROS formation and oxidative damage. Our study concluded that the HRF and its bioactive ingredient HSP may represent potential candidates for preventing UVA-induced photoaging via restoration of redox balance.

Traditionally Used Natural Products in Preventing Ionizing Radiation-Induced Dermatitis: First Review on the Clinical Studies

In the treatment of cancer, the use of ionizing radiation is an important modality. However, on the downside, radiation, when used for curative purposes, causes acute dermatitis or radiodermatitis at the site of radiation in most individuals. From a clinical viewpoint, severe dermatitis causes a burning and itching sensation is very painful, and severely affects the quality of life of the individual undergoing treatment. In worse situations, acute radiation dermatitis can cause gaps or breaks in the planned treatment and this can adversely affect the treatment objective and outcome.

BACKGROUND

In various traditional and folk systems of medicine, plants and plant products have been used since time immemorial for treating various skin ailments. Further, many cosmeceutical creams formulated based on knowledge from ethnomedicinal use are marketed and used to treat various ailments. In the current review, an attempt is made at summarizing the beneficial effects of some plants and plant products in mitigating acute radiation dermatitis in humans undergoing curative radiotherapy. Additionally, the emphasis is also placed on the mechanism/s responsible for the beneficial effects.

OBJECTIVE

The objective of this review is to summarize the clinical observations on the prevention of radiodermatitis by plant products. In this review, the protective effects of Adlay (Coix lachryma-jobi L.) bran extract, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis, Cucumis sativus, green tea constituent the epigallocatechin-3-gallate, honey, Achillea millefolium, Matricaria chamomilla, olive oil and some polyherbal creams are addressed by also addressing on the mechanism of action for the beneficial effects.

METHODS

Two authors' data mined for information in Google Scholar, PubMed, Embase and the Cochrane Library for publications in the field from 1901 up to July 2020. The focus was on acute radiation dermatitis, ionizing radiation, curative radiotherapy, human cancer. The articles were collected and analyzed.

RESULTS

For the first time, this review addresses the usefulness of natural products like adlay bran, Aloe vera, Calendula officinalis, Cucumis sativus, green tea constituent the epigallocatechin-3-gallate, honey, Achillea millefolium, Matricaria chamomilla, olive oil and some experimentally constituted and commercially available polyherbal creams as skincare agents against the deleterious effects of ionizing radiation on the skin. The protective effects are possibly due to the free radical scavenging, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, wound healing and skin protective effects.

CONCLUSION

The authors suggest that these plants have been used since antiquity as medicinal agents and require in-depth investigation with both clinical and preclinical validated models of study. The results of these studies will be extremely useful to cancer patients requiring curative radiotherapy, the dermatology fraternity, agro-based and pharmaceutical sectors at large.

Sesamin and sesamol attenuate H2O2-induced oxidative stress on human neuronal cells via the SIRT1-SIRT3-FOXO3a signaling pathway

Background: An imbalance of free radicals and antioxidant defense systems in physiological processes can result in protein/DNA damage, inflammation, and cellular apoptosis leading to neurodegenerative disorders such as Alzheimer's disease (AD), Parkinson's disease (PD), and Huntington's disease (HD). Sesamin and sesamol, compounds derived from sesame seeds and oil, have been reported to exert various pharmacological effects, especially antioxidant activity. However, their molecular mechanisms against the oxidative stress induced by exogenous hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂) remain to be elucidated. Aim: In this study, neuroprotective effects of sesamin and sesamol on H₂O₂-induced human neuroblastoma (SH-SY5Y) cell death and possible signaling pathways in the cells were explored. Methods: MTT assay and flow cytometry were conducted to determine cell viability and apoptotic profiles of neuronal cells treated with sesamin and sesamol. Carboxy-DCFDA assay was used to measure reactive oxygen species (ROS). Moreover, Western blot analysis was performed to investigate protein profiles associated with neuroprotection. Results: Pretreatment of the cells with 1 µM of sesamin and sesamol remarkably reduced the SH-SY5Y cell death induced by 400 µM H₂O₂ as well as the intracellular ROS production. Moreover, the molecular mechanisms underlying neuroprotection of the compounds were associated with activating SIRT1-SIRT3-FOXO3a expression, inhibiting BAX (proapoptotic protein), and upregulating BCL-2 (anti-apoptotic protein). Conclusion: The findings suggest that sesamin and sesamol are compounds that potentially protect neuronal cells against oxidative stress similar to that of the resveratrol, the reference compound. These antioxidants are thus of interest for further investigation in in vivo models of neuroprotection.