Intrinsic and extrinsic factors in skin ageing: a review

Inhibition of UVA Damage on Human Skin Dermis Fibroblasts by the Isoflavonoid Intermediate Deoxybenzoin-3A

Ultraviolet rays are the main cause of skin aging. Isoflavone structures are good anti-ultraviolet natural compounds and have an especially strong anti-ultraviolet B (UVB) effect. However, the anti-ultraviolet A (UVA) effect of isoflavones is more controversial. Therefore, this study aims to discover which isoflavone analogue possesses a strong anti-ultraviolet A. We found the isoflavonoid intermediate deoxybenzoin-3A (DOB-3A) to be a similar isoflavone structural compound with strong anti-ultraviolet A effects. Ultraviolet rays with a wavelength of 350 nm are used to irradiate the fibroblasts of the human skin. Western blot, flow cytometry, and transmission electron microscope analyses were used to explore its anti-ultraviolet A mechanism. We established the results that DOB-3A (1) reduced the death of fibroblasts caused by ultraviolet A, (2) avoided the damage to the organelles and structures after UVA irradiation, (3) inhibited the generation of intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) and hydrogen peroxide-induced damage, and (4) decreased the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPK) caused by UVA. Based on the above findings, DOB-3A is a very good anti-ultraviolet A isoflavone-related structure. Because it is simple to synthesize and has good effects, DOB-3A is a suitable anti-ultraviolet A product with an isoflavone structure. Moreover, DOB-3A's structure provides a reference for the synthesis of anti-UVA isoflavones.

Poly- and Oligosaccharide Ulva sp. Fractions from Enzyme-Assisted Extraction Modulate the Metabolism of Extracellular Matrix in Human Skin Fibroblasts: Potential in Anti-Aging Dermo-Cosmetic Applications

Ulva sp. is known to be a source of bioactive compounds such as ulvans, but their biological activity on human dermal fibroblast extracellular matrix (ECM) is poorly reported. In this work, the regulation of ECM has been investigated for the first time at both proteomic and transcriptomic levels in normal human skin dermal fibroblasts, after 48 h of incubation with poly- and oligosaccharide fractions from Ulva sp. obtained after enzyme-assisted extraction and depolymerization. Cell proliferation enhancement (up to +68%) without exhibiting any cytotoxic effect on fibroblasts was demonstrated at 50 and 1000 µg/mL by both fractions. At the proteomic level, polysaccharide fractions at 1000 µg/mL enhanced the most the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (GAGs, up to +57%), total collagen, especially types I (up to +217%) and III, as well as the synthesis and activity of MMP-1 (Matrix Metalloproteinase-1, up to +309%). In contrast, oligosaccharide fractions had no effect on GAGs synthesis but exhibited similarities for collagens and MMP-1 regulation. At the transcriptomic level, the decrease of COL1A1 and COL1A2 expression, and increase of COL3A1 and MMP-1 expression, confirmed the modulation of ECM metabolism by both fractions. Our research emphasizes that poly- and oligosaccharide Ulva sp. fractions exhibit interesting biological activities and supports their potential use in the area of skin renewal for anti-aging dermo-cosmetic applications.

Exopolysaccharide from Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 Protects against Skin Aging through Skin-Gut Axis Communication

Skin aging occurs inevitably as a natural result of physiological changes over time. In particular, solar exposure of the skin accounts for up to 90% of skin damage. Numerous studies have examined the ability of dietary constituents to prevent skin aging, and recent research has emphasized the role of functional probiotics in intestinal function and skin aging. However, the mechanism of the interactions between aging and probiotics has not been elucidated yet. The aim of this study was to determine the role of exopolysaccharides (EPS) produced by lactic acid bacteria (LAB) identified as Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 in regulating tight junctions in intestinal epithelial cells and increasing moisture retention in human dermal fibroblasts cells. We observed that HY7714 EPS controlled intestinal tight junctions in Caco-2 cells by upregulating the genes encoding occludin-1 (OCL-1) and zonula occluden-1 (ZO-1). In addition, HY7714 EPS effectively improved UVB-induced cytotoxicity and hydration capacity in HS68 cells by downregulating production of metalloproteinases (MMPs) and reactive oxygen species (ROS). In summary, HY7714 EPS is an effective anti-aging molecule in skin and may have therapeutic potential against skin diseases and UVB-induced damage. Therefore, HY7714 EPS serves as a functional substance in skin-gut axis communication.

Tracing skin aging process: a mini- review of in vitro approaches

Skin is a rather complex, yet useful organ of our body. Besides, skin aging is a complicated process that gains a growing interest as mediates many molecular processes in our body. Thus, an efficient skin model is important to understand skin aging function as well as to develop an effective innovative product for skin aging treatment. In this mini review, we present in vitro methods for assessments of skin aging in an attempt to pinpoint basic molecular mechanisms behind this process achieving both a better understanding of aging function and an effective  evaluation of potential products or ingredients that counteract aging. Specifically, this study presents in vitro assays such as 2D or 3D skin models, to evaluate skin aging-related processes such as skin moisturization, photoaging, wound healing, menopause, and skin microbiome as novel efforts in the designing of efficacy assessments in the development of skincare products.

A Unique Acylated Flavonol Glycoside from Prunus persica (L.) var. Florida Prince: A New Solid Lipid Nanoparticle Cosmeceutical Formulation for Skincare

Polyphenols are known dietary antioxidants. They have recently attracted considerable interest in uses to prevent skin aging and hyperpigmentation resulting from solar UV-irradiation. Prunus persica (L.) leaves are considered by-products and were reported to have a remarkable antioxidant activity due to their high content of polyphenols. This study aimed at the development of a cosmeceutical anti-aging and skin whitening cream preparation using ethanol leaves extract of Prunus persica (L.) (PPEE) loaded in solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) to enhance the skin delivery. Chemical investigation of PPEE showed significantly high total phenolic and flavonoids content with notable antioxidant activities (DPPH, ABTS, and β-carotene assays). A unique acylated kaempferol glycoside with a rare structure, kaempferol 3-O-β-⁴C₁-(6″-O-3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetyl glucopyranoside) (KDPAG) was isolated for the first time and its structure fully elucidated. It represents the first example of acylation with 3,4-dihydroxyphenyl acetic acid in flavonoid chemistry. The in-vitro cytotoxicity studies against a human keratinocytes cell line revealed the non-toxicity of PPEE and PPEE-SLNs. Moreover, PPEE, PPEE-SLNs, and KDPAG showed good anti-elastase activity, comparable to that of N-(Methoxysuccinyl)-Ala-Ala-Pro-Val-chloromethyl ketone. Besides, PPEE-SLNs and KDPAG showed significantly (p < 0.001) higher anti-collagenase and anti-tyrosinase activities in comparison to EDTA and kojic acid, respectively. Different PPEE-SLNs cream formulae (2% and 5%) were evaluated for possible anti-wrinkle activity against UV-induced photoaging in a mouse model using a wrinkle scoring method and were shown to offer a highly significant protective effect against UV, as evidenced by tissue biomarkers (SOD) and histopathological studies. Thus, the current study demonstrates that Prunus persica leaf by-products provide an interesting, valuable resource for natural cosmetic ingredients. This provides related data for further studying the potential safe use of PPEE-SLNs in topical anti-aging cosmetic formulations with enhanced skin permeation properties.

Fingerprint of Nature—Skin Penetration Analysis of a Stinging Nettle PlantCrystals Formulation

Background: PlantCrystals are a new concept to produce plant-based formulations. Their principle is based on the diminution of parts of or whole plants. In this study, the effect of a surfactant on stinging nettle leaf PlantCrystals was investigated. Secondly, the contents of bulk material and the PlantCrystals formulation were compared. In addition, for the very first time, the skin penetration of PlantCrystals was investigated. Methods: Stinging nettle leaves were milled with high-pressure homogenization. Sizes were analyzed via light microscopy and static light scattering. To investigate the effect of the milling, the flavonoid and total carotenoid content were determined, and the antioxidant capacity of the formulation was measured via total polyphenol content and DPPH (1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl) assay. Finally, the impact on skin penetration was investigated. Results: Size analysis showed a stabilizing effect of the surfactant, and the chemical analysis revealed higher flavonoid and polyphenol contents for PlantCrystals. The penetration of the formulation into the stratum corneum was shown to be promising; PlantCrystals possessed a visually perceived higher fluorescence and homogeneity compared to the bulk material. Conclusion: The concept of PlantCrystals improved the availability of valuable constituents and the penetration efficacy. The utilization of the natural chlorophyll fluorescence for skin penetration analysis of plant-based formulations proved itself highly effective.

Elastic fibers during aging and disease

Elastic fibers are essential constituents of the extracellular matrix of higher vertebrates and endow several tissues and organs including lungs, skin and blood vessels with elasticity and resilience. During the human lifespan, elastic fibers are exposed to a variety of enzymatic, chemical and biophysical influences, and accumulate damage due to their low turnover. Aging of elastin and elastic fibers involves enzymatic degradation, oxidative damage, glycation, calcification, aspartic acid racemization, binding of lipids and lipid peroxidation products, carbamylation and mechanical fatigue. These processes can trigger an impairment or loss of elastic fiber function and are associated with severe pathologies. There are different inherited or acquired pathological conditions, which influence the structure and function of elastic fibers and microfibrils predominantly in the cardiorespiratory system and skin. Inherited elastic-fiber pathologies have a direct or indirect impact on elastic-fiber formation due to mutations in the fibrillin genes (fibrillinopathies), in the elastin gene (elastinopathies) or in genes encoding proteins that are associated with microfibrils or elastic fibers. Acquired elastic-fiber pathologies appear age-related or as a result of multiple factors impairing tissue homeostasis. This review gives an overview on the fate of elastic fibers over the human lifespan in health and disease.

Effect of α-Lipoic Acid on the Development of Human Skin Equivalents Using a Pumpless Skin-on-a-Chip Model

Owing to the prohibition of cosmetic animal testing, various attempts have recently been made using skin-on-a-chip (SOC) technology as a replacement for animal testing. Previously, we reported the development of a pumpless SOC capable of drug testing with a simple drive using the principle that the medium flows along the channel by gravity when the chip is tilted using a microfluidic channel. In this study, using pumpless SOC, instead of drug testing at the single-cell level, we evaluated the efficacy of α-lipoic acid (ALA), which is known as an anti-aging substance in skin equivalents, for skin tissue and epidermal structure formation. The expression of proteins and changes in genotyping were compared and evaluated. Hematoxylin and eosin staining for histological analysis showed a difference in the activity of fibroblasts in the dermis layer with respect to the presence or absence of ALA. We observed that the epidermis layer became increasingly prominent as the culture period was extended by treatment with 10 μM ALA. The expression of epidermal structural proteins of filaggrin, involucrin, keratin 10, and collagen IV increased because of the effect of ALA. Changes in the epidermis layer were noticeable after the ALA treatment. As a result of aging, damage to the skin-barrier function and structural integrity is reduced, indicating that ALA has an anti-aging effect. We performed a gene analysis of filaggrin, involucrin, keratin 10, integrin, and collagen I genes in ALA-treated human skin equivalents, which indicated an increase in filaggrin gene expression after ALA treatment. These results indicate that pumpless SOC can be used as an in vitro skin model similar to human skin, protein and gene expression can be analyzed, and it can be used for functional drug tests of cosmetic materials in the future. This technology is expected to contribute to the development of skin disease models.

Screening of ninety herbal products of commercial interest as potential ingredients for phytocosmetics

Elastase and tyrosinase are important targets both for cosmetics and for dermatological disorders. In this work, ninety herbal products were tested as inhibitors of these two enzymes. Eleven extracts resulted strongly active. Four out of them (Camellia sinensis, Ginkgo biloba, Rhodiola rosea, Vitis vinifera) inhibited both enzymes, five (Glycyrrhiza glabra, Ribes nigrum, Rheum officinale, Salvia officinalis, Tilia platyphyllos) were active against tyrosinase only, and two (Ceterach officinarum and Cinnamomum zeylanicum) proved selectively active against elastase. The IC₅₀ ranged from 3.1 to 104.9 μg/mL and 19.3 to 164.3 μg/mL, against elastase and tyrosinase, respectively. The most active extracts resulted enriched in flavonoids (from 1.47 to 56.47 mg RE/g of extract) and phenolics (from 37.43 to 123.56 mg GAE/g of extract), indicating also an antioxidant potential. Finally, a positive correlation between enzymatic bioactivities and phenolic content was also established.

Cyanidin-3-glucoside Lipophilic Conjugates for Topical Application: Tuning the Antimicrobial Activities with Fatty Acid Chain Length

Background: Natural anthocyanins present a low solubility in lipophilic media, which compromises their effective application in lipophilic systems. In this work, cyanidin-3-O-glucoside (Cy3glc) was esterified by the addition of fatty acids with increasing chain-lengths and a structure-activity relationship was performed towards the description of the best analog for skin-care applications. Methods: By enzymatic hemi-synthesis, it was possible to obtain 5 structurally related derivatives of cyanidin-3-O-glucoside with successive C2 increments in the aliphatic chain. The stability in hanks buffer and DMEM with or without FBS was followed by HPLC. The cytotoxicity against keratinocytes was evaluated by MTT assay. The antioxidant capacity was determined by using the fluorescent probe DCF-DA. The effect on enzyme activity was evaluated towards tyrosinase, collagenase, and elastase enzymes by colorimetric assays. MIC and MBC values were obtained against reference strains and against multidrug-resistant isolates. Results: In physiological conditions, cy3glc−fatty acid derivatives are more stable and may be converted to the native anthocyanin. The 5 conjugates showed lower antioxidant capacity and enzymatic inhibitory activities in comparison to the anthocyanin precursor. However, concerning the antibacterial activity, the insertion of a fatty acid chain sprouted the antibacterial activity, showing a clear biphasic effect and a more effective effect on Gram-positive bacteria. Conclusions: Cy3glc-C10 was the most effective compound considering the antimicrobial activity, although a general reduction was observed among the other activities evaluated. This work prompt further assays with a different panoply of derivatives ranging other features including saturation vs. unsaturation, even vs. odd carbon content and linear vs. branched.

The role of Safranal and saffron stigma extracts in oxidative stress, diseases and photoaging: A systematic review

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are produced as a result of various environmental factors and cellular metabolism reactions creating oxidative stress. The reversible oxidative modification on proteins such as cysteine oxidation may be useful and can play positive role. ROS generated offer some benefits such as cellular signalling and tissue repair when present in low concentration. However, most of the times, these reactive species cause detrimental effects to cell components which leads to various pathological conditions which causes or aggravates diseases due to oxidative stress. The degenerative diseases due to oxidative stress are diabetes, cardiovascular diseases, epilepsy, cancer and aging. Antioxidants are the compounds which scavenge these free radicals and hence neutralize their effects. Research has enabled the use of natural antioxidants as therapeutic agent in the treatment of diseases. Safranal is one such natural agent which is a major volatile component of saffron. Saffron, Red gold is the most expensive spice found in limited region of the planet and is also reported to be used in traditional systems of medicine. Chemically, safranal is a monoterpene aldehyde possessing a sweet fragrance. While exploring for the photoprotective properties of safranal, we learnt about the immense antioxidant potential of safranal. Investigation by various research groups established safranal as an anti-inflammatory, antidepressant, anxiolytic, antiasthamatic, antihypertensive, anticonvulsant, anticancer and antitussive and antigenotoxic agent. It has brought researchers over the world to explore the antioxidant benefits of saffron for human health. In the present paper, potential of safranal and its related molecules as radical scavenger in combating oxidative stress, diseased conditions is collated and the underlying mechanisms have been explained. Various cell lines and animal models used for study of Safranal have been discussed.

Regulation of Cell Polarity and Tissue Architecture in Epidermal Aging and Cancer

The mammalian skin is essential to protect the organism from external damage while at the same time enabling communication with the environment. Aging compromises skin function and regeneration, which is further exacerbated by external influences, such as UVR from the sun. Aging and UVR are also major risk factors contributing to the development of skin cancer. Whereas aging research traditionally has focused on the role of DNA damage and metabolic and stress pathways, less is known about how aging affects tissue architecture and cell dynamics in skin homeostasis and regeneration and whether changes in these processes promote skin cancer. This review highlights how key regulators of cell polarity and adhesion affect epidermal mechanics, tissue architecture, and stem cell dynamics in skin aging and cancer.

Preventive Effects of Anthraquinones Isolated from an Endophytic Fungus, Colletotrichum sp. JS-0367 in Tumor Necrosis Factor-α-Stimulated Damage of Human Dermal Fibroblasts

Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are a major causative factor of inflammatory responses and extracellular matrix degradation. ROS also cause skin aging and diverse cutaneous lesions. Therefore, antioxidants that inhibit the generation of ROS may be beneficial in the relief of skin aging and diseases. We investigated the anti-skin aging effect of anthraquinones from cultures of Colletotrichum sp., an endophytic fungus isolated from Morus alba L. using human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). We preferentially evaluated the preventive effects of anti-oxidative anthraquinones (1, 4) against the generation of ROS, nitric oxide (NO), and prostaglandins-E₂ (PGE₂). Among them, 1,3-dihydroxy-2,8-dimethoxy-6-methylanthraquinone (1) suppressed the generation of ROS, NO, and PGE₂ in tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α)-stimulated HDFs. Compound 1 reversed the TNF-induced increase in matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and a decrease in procollagen I α1 (COLIA1). It also suppressed inducible NO synthase, cyclooxygenase-2, interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, and IL-8, which upregulate inflammatory reactions. Mechanistically, compound 1 suppressed nuclear factor-κB, activator protein 1, and mitogen-activated protein kinases in TNF-α-stimulated HDFs. These results suggest that compound 1 may be beneficial for improving skin aging and diverse cutaneous lesions.

A new procedure, free from human assessment, that automatically grades some facial skin signs in men from selfie pictures. Application to changes induced by a severe aerial chronic urban pollution

OBJECTIVE

These were two folds: at first, to develop an automatic grading system specifically dedicated to some facial signs of men, similar to the one previously validated on women of different ethnic ancestry and second, to assess its potential in detecting and grading the possible impacts of a severe aerial urban pollution on some facial signs of Chinese men.

METHODS

In both studies, selfie images were obtained from differently aged men. Nine facial signs were automatically graded through a specific A.I-based algorithm and clinically assessed by a panel of experts and dermatologists. Selfie pictures were taken from individual smartphones of variable optical properties. The first study, designed for developing an automatic grading system, involved three comparable cohorts of men from three different regional ancestries (African, Asian, Caucasian, 110 each) the selfie images of which were acquired under four different lighting conditions. As a second use case study, the facial signs of two cohorts of Chinese men (101 and 100, each), differently aged, regularly exposed to very different aerial urban pollution conditions (UP) were analysed by the same algorithm, selfies being taken under only one lighting condition.

RESULTS

-The new automatic grading system of facial signs suits well to men, showing comparable results than that the one dedicated to women and provides data in close agreement with experts' assessments. -In both cases (expert's or automatic methodology), the accuracy of the scores appeared ethnic-dependent. -The applied case confirmed previous results obtained clinically, that is, that many facial signs were found of an increased severity among men exposed to a severe urban pollution, as compared to those living in a less polluted city. -In both studies, statistical agreements between the automatic grading system and expert's assessments were reached. In some facial signs, the automatic grading system seems offering a slightly better accuracy than the assessments made by the experts.

CONCLUSION

Apart from some minor limitations, this A.I-based automatic grading system, free from human intervention, performed as well as the one previously developed in women, in close agreement with expert's assessments. In epidemiological studies, this system offers an easy, fast, affordable and confidential approach in the detection and quantification of male facial signs.

Pharmacological activities and mechanisms of action of Pogostemon cablin Benth: a review

Patchouli ("Guanghuoxiang") or scientifically known as Pogostemon cablin Benth, belonging to the family Lamiaceae, has been used in traditional Chinse medicine (TCM) since the time of the Eastern Han dynasty. In TCM theory, patchouli can treat colds, nausea, fever, headache, and diarrhea. Various bioactive compounds have been identified in patchouli, including terpenoids, phytosterols, flavonoids, organic acids, lignins, glycosides, alcohols, pyrone, and aldehydes. Among the numerous compounds, patchouli alcohol, β-patchoulene, patchoulene epoxide, pogostone, and pachypodol are of great importance. The pharmacological impacts of these compounds include anti-peptic ulcer effect, antimicrobial effect, anti-oxidative effect, anti-inflammatory effect, effect on ischemia/reperfusion injury, analgesic effect, antitumor effect, antidiabetic effect, anti-hypertensive effect, immunoregulatory effect, and others.For this review, we examined publications from the previous five years collected from PubMed, Web of Science, Springer, and the Chinese National Knowledge Infrastructure databases. This review summarizes the recent progress in phytochemistry, pharmacology, and mechanisms of action and provides a reference for future studies focused on clinical applications of this important plant extract.

TGFβ Signaling in Photoaging and UV-Induced Skin Cancer

UVR is a major etiology for premature skin aging that leads to photoaging and UV-induced skin cancers. In the skin, TGFβ signaling is a growth inhibitor for keratinocytes and a profibrotic factor in the dermis. It exerts context-dependent effects on tumor progression. Chronic UV exposure likely causes TGFβ1/SMAD3 signaling activation and contributes to metalloproteinase-induced collagen degradation and photoinflammation in photoaging. UV irradiation also causes gene mutations in key elements of the TGFβ pathway, including TGFβRI, TGFβRII, SMAD2, and SMAD4. These mutations enable tumor cells to escape from TGFβ-induced growth inhibition and induce genomic instability and cancer stem cells, leading to the initiation, progression, invasion, and metastasis of cutaneous squamous cell carcinoma (cSCC). Furthermore, UV-induced mutations cause TGFβ overexpression in the tumor microenvironment (TME) of cSCC, basal cell carcinoma (BCC), and cutaneous melanoma, resulting in inflammation, angiogenesis, cancer-associated fibroblasts, and immune inhibition, supporting cancer survival, immune evasion, and metastasis. The pleiotropic effects of TGFβ provide possible treatment options for photoaging and skin cancer. Given the high UV-induced mutational burden and immune-repressive TME seen in cSCC, BCC, and cutaneous melanoma, treatment with the combination of a TGFβ signaling inhibitor and immune checkpoint blockade could reverse immune evasion to reduce tumor growth.

Air pollution and skin disorders

Air pollution is being shown to play an increasing causation role in our most common skin diseases. Acne, hyperpigmentation, atopic dermatitis, and psoriasis have been shown to be influenced by air pollution. It is important for pollution to be added as a risk factor for these skin disorders, and thus we must discuss mitigating its negative affects with patients. Air pollution is the contamination of outdoor (ambient) and indoor (household) environments by any chemical, physical, or biological agent that modifies the natural characteristics of the atmosphere. Nearly all (90%) of the world's population experience daily pollution. In 2019, air pollution was considered by the World Health Organization to be the biggest environmental health risk to humans, responsible for killing more than 7 million people prematurely every year. Preliminary studies link air pollution to COVID-19 deaths, as there were high death tolls in some of the most globally polluted areas. Air pollution affects many organ systems such as cardiovascular, pulmonary, central nervous, reproductive, and integumentary systems. In this study, we detail the current evidence linking specific skin and health disorders to air pollution.

Nootkatol prevents ultraviolet radiation-induced photoaging via ORAI1 and TRPV1 inhibition in melanocytes and keratinocytes

Skin photoaging occurs due to chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UV), the main factor contributing to extrinsic skin aging. Clinical signs of photoaging include the formation of deep, coarse skin wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. Although melanogenesis and skin wrinkling occur in different skin cells and have different underlying mechanisms, their initiation involves intracellular calcium signaling via calcium ion channels. The ORAI1 channel initiates melanogenesis in melanocytes, and the TRPV1 channel initiates MMP-1 production in keratinocytes in response to UV stimulation. We aimed to develop a drug that may simultaneously inhibit ORAI1 and TRPV1 activity to help prevent photoaging. We synthesized nootkatol, a chemical derivative of valencene. TRPV1 and ORAI1 activities were measured using the whole-cell patch-clamp technique. Intracellular calcium concentration [Ca²⁺]_i was measured using calcium-sensitive fluorescent dye (Fura-2 AM). UV-induced melanin formation and MMP-1 production were quantified in B16F10 melanoma cells and HaCaT cells, respectively. Our results indicate that nootkatol (90 μM) reduced TRPV1 current by 94% ± 2% at –60 mV and ORAI1 current by 97% ± 1% at –120 mV. Intracellular calcium signaling was significantly inhibited by nootkatol in response to ORAI1 activation in human primary melanocytes (51.6% ± 0.98% at 100 μM). Additionally, UV-induced melanin synthesis was reduced by 76.38% ± 5.90% in B16F10 melanoma cells, and UV-induced MMP-1 production was reduced by 59.33% ± 1.49% in HaCaT cells. In conclusion, nootkatol inhibits both TRPV1 and ORAI1 to prevent photoaging, and targeting ion channels may be a promising strategy for preventing photoaging.

Differential Modulation of Autophagy Contributes to the Protective Effects of Resveratrol and Co-Enzyme Q10 in Photoaged Mice

BACKGROUND

In photoaging, the accumulation of ultraviolet (UV)-induced oxidative damage leads to the characteristic hallmarks of aging. Here arises the importance of autophagy as a cellular degradation process that cleans the cells of defective or aged organelles and macromolecules, thus maintaining cellular homeostasis. In spite of this, the exact impact of autophagy in photoaging is still elusive.

OBJECTIVE

To evaluate the protective effects of resveratrol and/or co-enzyme-Q10 against the UVA-induced alterations and to explore the role of autophagy in their proposed benefits.

METHODS

Sixty female mice were randomly divided into normal control, untreated UVA-exposed, resveratrol (50mg/kg), co-enzyme-Q10 (100mg/kg), and resveratrol/co-enzyme-Q10-treated UVA-- exposed groups. Clinical signs of photoaging were evaluated using a modified grading score and the pinch test. Skin malondialdehyde and reduced glutathione were assessed as markers of oxidative stress. Tissues were examined for histopathological signs of photodamage, and autophagic changes were determined by immunohistochemical detection of LC3 and P62 in the different cells of the skin.

RESULTS

UVA-exposure increased the oxidative stress with subsequent epidermal and dermal injury. This was associated with the stimulation of autophagy in the keratinocytes and inhibition of autophagic flux in the fibroblasts and infiltrating macrophages. Both drugs corrected the impaired pinch test, macro-and microscopic changes, and exhibited distinct staining patterns with anti-LC3 and P62 in the different cell types denoting autophagic modulation.

CONCLUSION

Changes in autophagic flux are strongly implicated in photoaging associated skin damage and the differential modulation of autophagy by resveratrol and, to a lesser extent by Co-enzyme- Q10, is partially involved in their therapeutic benefits.

Global Gene Expression of Cultured Human Dermal Fibroblasts: Focus on Cell Cycle and Proliferation Status in Improving the Condition of Face Skin

Chronological skin ageing is an inevitable physiological process that results in thin and sagging skin, fine wrinkles, and gradual dermal atrophy. The main therapeutic approaches to soft tissue augmentation involve using dermal fillers, where natural fillers, such as autologous fibroblasts, are involved in generating dermal matrix proteins. The aim of this study was to determine the global transcriptome profile of three passages of dermal autologous fibroblasts from a male volunteer, focusing on the processes of the cell cycle and cell proliferation status to estimate the optimal passage of the tested cells with respect to their reimplantation. We performed K-means clustering and validation of the expression of the selected mRNA by qRT-PCR. Ten genes were selected (ANLN, BUB1, CDC20, CCNA2, DLGAP5, MKI67, PLK1, PRC1, SPAG5, and TPX2) from the top five processes annotated to cluster 5. Detailed microarray analysis of the fibroblast genes indicated that the cell population of the third passage exhibited the highest number of upregulated genes involved in the cell cycle and cell proliferation. In all cases, the results of qRT-PCR confirmed the differences in expression of the selected mRNAs between fibroblasts from the primary culture (C0) and from the first (C1), second (C2), and third (C3) cell passage. Our results thus suggest that these cells might be useful for increasing fibroblast numbers after reimplantation into a recipient's skin, and the method used in this study seems to be an excellent tool for autologous transplantation allowing the rejuvenation of aging skin.

Ultraviolet irradiation-induced inhibition of histone deacetylase 4 increases the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1 but decreases that of type I procollagen via activating JNK in human dermal fibroblasts

BACKGROUND

Ultraviolet (UV) irradiation is the main contributing factor for skin aging. UV irradiation induces epigenetic changes in skin. It increases the activity of histone acetylases (HATs) but decreases that of histone deacetylases (HDACs).

OBJECTIVE

We aimed to investigate alterations in all classes of HDACs and sirtuins (SIRTs) in response to UV irradiation, and determine the HDACs regulating the expressions of matrix metalloproteinase 1 (MMP-1) and type I procollagen.

METHODS

Primary human dermal fibroblasts were UV irradiated. HDAC4 was knocked-down or overexpressed to investigate its effect on the expression of MMP-1 and type I procollagen. The mRNA and protein levels were analyzed by quantitative real-time polymerase chain reaction and western blotting.

RESULTS

Among 11 HDACs and 7 SIRTs, we found that the expression of HDAC4, HDAC5, HDAC6, HDAC7, HDAC8, HDAC11, SIRT2, and SIRT3 were significantly and consistently reduced by UV at both mRNA and protein levels. Among these, the reduction of HDAC4 was responsible for the basal and UV-induced increase in the expression of MMP-1 and decrease in that of type I procollagen. Furthermore, the reduced HDAC4 could activate c-Jun N-terminal kinase (JNK), resulting in an increase in MMP-1 and decrease in type I procollagen.

CONCLUSIONS

UV treatment decreases the expression of HDACs and SIRTs in dermal fibroblasts; in particular, the UV-induced reduction in the expression of HDAC4 might play an important role in regulating the expression of MMP-1 and type I procollagen.

Anti-aging Effects of Mangosteen Peel Extract and Its Phytochemical Compounds: Antioxidant Activity, Enzyme Inhibition and Molecular Docking Simulation

Skin aging is a complex natural process characterised by gradual diminishment of structural integrity and physiological imbalance of the skin tissue. Since the oxidative stress is tightly corelated to the skin aging process, the usage of antioxidant may serve as favourable strategies for slowing down the skin aging process. Mangosteen is an important fruit commodity and its extract had been extensively studied and revealing various biological activities. Present study aimed to assess the antioxidant and antiaging activity of mangosteen peel extract (MPE) and its phytochemical compounds. MPE and its compounds were subjected to ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), hydroperoxide (H₂O₂) scavenging, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-hyaluronidase and anti-tyrosinase assay. MPE has the highest FRAP 116.31 ± 0.60 μM Fe(II) μg⁻¹ extract, IC₅₀ of MPE on H₂O₂ scavenging activity was 54.61 μg mL⁻¹. MPE also has the highest anti elastase activity at IC₅₀ 7.40 μg mL⁻¹. Alpha-mangostin showed potent anti-collagenase activity (IC₅₀ 9.75 μg mL⁻¹). While gamma-mangostin showed potent anti-hyaluronidase (IC₅₀ 23.85 μg mL⁻¹) and anti-tyrosinase (IC₅₀ 50.35 μg mL⁻¹). MPE and its compounds were evaluated in vitro for antioxidant and antiaging activities. Current findings may provide scientific evidence for possible usage of mangosteen extract and its compounds as antioxidant and antiaging agent.

Xanthones for melanogenesis inhibition: Molecular docking and QSAR studies to understand their anti-tyrosinase activity

The human skin is constantly exposed to external factors that affect its integrity, UV radiation being one of the main stress factors. The repeated exposure to this radiation leads to increased production of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) which activate a series of processes involved in photoaging. Excessive UV exposure also exacerbates melanin production leading to a variety of pigmentation disorders. Xanthones are reported to exhibit properties that prevent deleterious effects of UV exposure and high levels of ROS in the organism, so in this work a wide library of xanthones with different patterns of substitution was synthesized and tested for their inhibitory activity against the skin enzymes tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase and hyaluronidase, many of which were evaluated for the first time. Most of the compounds were tyrosinase inhibitors, with the best one (xanthone 27) presenting an IC₅₀ of 1.9 µM, which is approximately 6 times lower than the IC₅₀ of the positive control kojic acid. Concerning the other enzymes, only one compound presented IC₅₀ lower than 150 µM in elastase inhibition (xanthone 14 = 91.8 µM) and none in collagenase and hyaluronidase inhibition. A QSAR model for tyrosinase inhibitory activity was built using six molecular descriptors, with a partial negative surface area descriptor and the relative number of oxygen atoms being positively contributing to the tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Docking using AutoDock Vina shows that all the tested compounds have more affinity to mushroom tyrosinase than kojic acid. Docking results implied that the tyrosinase inhibitory mechanisms of xanthonic derivatives are attributed to an allosteric interaction. Taken together, these data suggest that xanthones might be useful scaffolds for the development of new and promising candidates for the treatment of pigmentation-related disorders and for skin whitening cosmetic products.

The role of hyaluronic acid and amino acid against the aging of the human skin: A clinical and histological study

BACKGROUND

In esthetic medicine, different techniques have been used against the aging of the human skin especially in the facial area. Hyaluronic acid is used for improving the quantity of water and extracellular matrix molecule. The aim of this study is a clinical and histological evaluation of the effect of low-molecular-weight hyaluronic acid fragments mixed with amino acid (HAAM) on the rejuvenation the face skin treated with intradermal microinjections.

METHODS

Twenty women with mean age 45 range from 35 to 64 were studied, thereof 8 in menopause and 12 of childbearing age. The patients were treated with the HAAM products by mesotherapy technique; before and after 3 months of the therapeutic procedure, each patient underwent small biopsies with a circular punch biopsy.

RESULTS

The clinical results of the present study showed that the administration of the dermal filler containing fragments of hyaluronic acid between 20 and 38 monomers and amino acid via dermis injection technique produces an esthetic improvement in the faces of the treated patients, while the histological evaluation shows an increased fibroblast activity with the production of type III reticular collagen and increased number of vessels and epidermis thickness.

CONCLUSIONS

The clinical and histological assessment showed that subcutaneous HAAM infiltration has a significant impact on the dermis and clinical aspects of the face.

Prospective Evaluation of Mango Fruit Intake on Facial Wrinkles and Erythema in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized Clinical Pilot Study

Mangos are rich in β-carotene and other carotenoids, along with several phenolic acids that may provide oxidant defense and photoprotection to the skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the effects of Ataulfo mango intake on the development of facial wrinkles and erythema. A randomized two-group parallel-arm study was conducted to assess 16 weeks of either 85 g or 250 g of mango intake in healthy postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. Facial photographs were captured at weeks 0, 8, and 16, and wrinkles at the lateral canthi and erythema at the cheeks were quantified. Skin carotenoid values were measured with reflection spectroscopy. Deep wrinkle severity decreased significantly in the 85 g group after 8 (p = 0.007) and 16 (p = 0.03) weeks compared to baseline measures. In contrast, those in the 250 g group showed an increase after 16 weeks in average wrinkle severity (p = 0.049), average wrinkle length (p = 0.007), fine wrinkle severity (p = 0.02), and emerging wrinkle severity (p = 0.02). Erythema in the cheeks increased with 85 g of mango intake (p = 0.04). The intake of 85 g of mangos reduced wrinkles in fair-skinned postmenopausal women, while an intake of 250 g showed the opposite effect. Further studies feeding 85 g of mangos are warranted.

Tasmannia lanceolata leaf extract alleviates stretch mark appearance in a randomized, placebo-controlled clinical trial in women and stimulates extracellular matrix synthesis in ex vivo human skin explants

BACKGROUND

The leaves of Tasmannia lanceolata mainly contain polygodial that is known to exhibit a range of biological functions including anti-inflammatory effects.

AIMS

These studies aimed to assess the effects of Tasmannia lanceolata extract (TLE) on skin and more particularly on stretch marks in women.

PATIENTS/METHODS

A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled clinical study was carried out on 29 women, aged from 25 to 60 years, to investigate the effects of TLE on stabilized stretch marks. TLE and placebo products were topically applied daily for 8 weeks. Skin roughness and firmness of stretch marks were assessed by 2D and 3D photograph processing and analyses. Dermal density and thickness were evaluated using ultrasound, while stretch mark conditions (length, color, and depth) were determined by clinical scoring. Matricial proteins (pro-collagen I and elastin) and pro-matricial factors, like TGF-β concentrations, were quantified from cultures of human skin explants presenting stretch marks, treated with TLE or vehicle control.

RESULTS

Skin roughness of stretch marks was significantly reduced in the TLE group after 8 weeks of treatment. Skin firmness of stretch marks was significantly increased in the TLE group after 4 weeks of treatment, and this improved effect was maintained until the end of the study. Dermal density and thickness were significantly increased in the TLE group compared to the placebo group. Furthermore, TLE restored the dermal condition of the stretch mark skin, up to normal skin levels. In addition, pro-collagen I and elastin concentrations were found to be higher in the TLE-treated stretch mark skin explants compared to the untreated ones, associated with higher quantities of TGF-β production.

CONCLUSION

These results revealed that TLE could help improve the aspect of stabilized stretch marks in women by restoring the matricial environment.

Red Carrot Cells Cultured in vitro Are Effective, Stable, and Safe Ingredients for Skin Care, Nutraceutical, and Food Applications

Plant biomasses growing in bioreactor could be developed as production systems for cosmetic ingredients, nutraceuticals and food additives. We previously reported that the red carrot cell line R4G accumulates high levels of anthocyanins, which are potent antioxidants with multiple health-promoting properties. To investigate the industrial potential of this cell line in detail, we tested extract for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in the mouse monocyte/macrophage cell-line J774A.1 and in reconstructed skin tissue models. We also compared the R4G extract to commercial carrot extracts in terms of stability and metabolomic profiles. We found that the R4G extract have potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, protecting mammalian cells from the oxidative stress triggered by exposure to bacterial lipopolysaccharides and H₂O₂. The extract also inhibited the nuclear translocation of NF-κB in an epidermal skin model, and induced the expression of VEGF-A to promote the microcirculation in a dermal microtissue model. The anthocyanins extracted from R4G cells were significantly more stable than those found in natural red carrot extracts. Finally, we showed that R4G extract has similar metabolomic profile of natural extracts by using a combination of targeted and untargeted metabolomics analysis, demonstrating the safety of R4G carrot cells for applications in the nutraceutical and food/feed industries.

Antiphotoaging Effect of 3,5-Dicaffeoyl-epi-quinic Acid against UVA-Induced Skin Damage by Protecting Human Dermal Fibroblasts In Vitro

Cutaneous aging is divided into intrinsic and exogenous aging correspondingly contributing to the complex biological phenomenon in skin. Intrinsic aging is also termed chronological aging, which is the accumulation of inevitable changes over time and is largely genetically determined. Superimposed on this intrinsic process, exogenous aging is associated with environmental exposure, mainly to ultraviolet (UV) radiation and more commonly termed as photoaging. UV-induced skin aging induces increased expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) which in turn causes the collagen degradation. Therefore, MMP inhibitors of natural origin are regarded as a primary approach to prevent or treat photoaging. This study investigated the effects of 3,5-dicaffeoyl-epi-quinic acid (DEQA) on photoaging and elucidated its molecular mechanisms in UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs). The results show that treatment with DEQA decreases MMP-1 production and increases type I collagen production in UVA-damaged HDFs. In addition, treatment of UVA-irradiated HDFs with DEQA downregulates MMP-1, MMP-3 and MMP-9 expression via blocking MAPK-cascade-regulated AP-1 transcriptional activity in UVA-irradiated HDFs. Furthermore, DEQA relieves the UVA-mediated suppression of type I procollagen and collagen expression through stimulating TGF-β/Smad signaling, leading to activation of the Smad 2/3 and Smad 4 nuclear translocation. These results suggest that DEQA could be a potential cosmetic agent for prevention and treatment of skin photoaging.

Exploring the Applications of the Photoprotective Properties of Anthocyanins in Biological Systems

Due to their physical and chemical characteristics, anthocyanins are amongst the most versatile groups of natural compounds. Such unique signature makes these compounds a focus in several different areas of research. Anthocyanins have well been reported as bioactive compounds in a myriad of health disorders such as cardiovascular diseases, cancer, and obesity, among others, due to their anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-diabetic, anti-bacterial, and anti-proliferative capacities. Such a vast number of action mechanisms may be also due to the number of structurally different anthocyanins plus their related derivatives. In this review, we highlight the recent advances on the potential use of anthocyanins in biological systems with particular focus on their photoprotective properties. Topics such as skin aging and eye degenerative diseases, highly influenced by light, and the action of anthocyanins against such damages will be discussed. Photodynamic Therapy and the potential role of anthocyanins as novel photosensitizers will be also a central theme of this review.

Topical Application of Aronia melanocarpa Extract Rich in Chlorogenic Acid and Rutin Reduces UVB-Induced Skin Damage via Attenuating Collagen Disruption in Mice

Aronia melanocarpa, a black chokeberry, contains high levels of phenolic acids and polyphenolic flavonoids and displays antioxidative and anti-inflammatory effects. Through high-performance liquid chromatography for extracts from Aronia melanocarpa, we discovered that the extract contained chlorogenic acid and rutin as major ingredients. In this study, we examined the protective effects of the extract against ultraviolet B- (UVB)-induced photodamage in the dorsal skin of institute of cancer research (ICR) mice. Their dorsal skin was exposed to UVB, thereafter; the extract was topically applied once a day for seven days. Photoprotective properties of the extract in the dorsal skin were investigated by clinical skin severity score for skin injury, hematoxylin and eosin staining for histopathology, Masson's trichrome staining for collagens. In addition, we examined change in collagen type I and III, and matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP-3 by immunohistochemistry. In the UVB-exposed mice treated with the extract, UVB-induced epidermal damage was significantly ameliorated, showing that epidermal thickness was moderated. In these mice, immunoreactivities of collagen type I and III were significantly increased, whereas immunoreactivities of MMP-1 and 3 were significantly decreased compared with those in the UVB-exposed mice. These results indicate that treatment with Aronia melanocarpa extract attenuates UV-induced photodamage by attenuating UVB-induced collagen disruption: these findings might be a result of the chlorogenic acid and rutin contained in the extract. Based on the current results, we suggest that Aronia melanocarpa can be a useful material for developing photoprotective adjuvant.

AQP5 regulates the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal stem cells in skin aging

The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, is the first barrier that comes into contact with the external environment. It plays an important role in resisting the invasion of harmful substances and microbial infections. The skin changes with age and external environmental factors. This study aimed to investigate epidermal stem cells during the process of aging. This study enrolled 9 volunteers with benign pigmented nevus for clinical dermatologic surgery. The phenotypes associated with skin aging changes such as skin wrinkles and elasticity of the unexposed/healthy parts near benign pigmented skin were measured, and epidermal stem cells from this region were isolated for transcriptome sequencing. The results showed that epidermal stem cells could be obtained by magnetic activated cell sorting (MACS) with high purity. Results of the transcriptome sequencing revealed that aquaporin (AQP)5 significantly decreased in the epidermal stem cells with age, and further functional experiments revealed that AQP5 could promote the proliferation and dedifferentiation of HaCaT, but did not influence cell apoptosis. In summary, AQP5 regulated the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal stem cells in skin aging, and it may play an important role in the balance of proliferation and differentiation. However, further studies are needed to determine the mechanism by which AQP5 regulates the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal skin cells in aging.

Role of proteoglycans on skin ageing: a review

This work analyses the role of proteoglycans on skin ageing, influenced by the presence of glycosylated proteins, which exercise diverse functions on the skin. They are essential components that restore the cells, providing hydration, maintaining hydration of the extracellular matrix, preventing the formation of wrinkles thanks to their ability to combine to other molecules such as collagen or hyaluronic acid and favouring the smoothness of the skin texture. The use of these proteins is a very recent and promising topic, since their application may revolutionize skin ageing therapies. Of the existing proteoglycans, decorin, versican and perlecan are of special note, playing a fundamental role on skin.

Cosmeceutical potentials of Curcuma mangga Val. extract in human BJ fibroblasts against MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13

Oxidative stress, the disrupted oxidation-reduction mechanism in our body, is caused by the excessive exposure of free radicals and the impaired antioxidant defenses that can accelerate skin aging. Antioxidants can be obtained from nature, which are available widely in therapeutic-rich plants, such as white saffron (Curcuma mangga Val., denoted as C. mangga). Although many pieces of evidence reveal that C. mangga contains an abundance of phenolic compounds and has antioxidative effects, its cosmeceutical potentials remain unclear. The present study aimed to disclose the unexplored antiaging potentials of C. mangga extract (CME) in oxidative stress-induced human BJ fibroblasts with a focus on collagen protection against pro-inflammatory mediators MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13. The oxidative stress-induced cells were treated with CME and curcumin at different doses. The results showed that treatment using CME (25 μg/mL) could maintain the collagen contents up to 18.45 ± 0.68 μg/mL in H2O2-treated fibroblasts (only ~26.63% reduction in collagen contents), while the figure for the negative control was the lowest (12.79 μg/mL), showing a significant reduction in collagen contents by 49.13%. In addition, the gene expression of pro-inflammatory MMPs arose significantly in BJ fibroblasts after oxidative stress induction using 200 μM H2O2, in which the expression for MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 increased by 7.10, 38.96, and 2.69 times, respectively. Interestingly, CME treatment (100 μg/mL) could effectively inhibit MMP1, MMP3, and MMP13 gene expression by 3.65, 34.62, and 2.02 times, respectively. In conclusion, CME showed favorable antiaging activities in H2O2-treated human BJ fibroblasts as confirmed by the low levels of gene expression of MPP1, MMP3, and MMP13 after treatment with CME.

Pharmacological and Cosmeceutical Potential of Seaweed Beach-Casts of Macaronesia

Seaweed beach-casts are a seasonal phenomenon that regularly deposits tons of algae biomass on beaches, which are usually disposed of in landfills. The present work aimed to contribute to the valorization of this biomass by studying bioactivities that reveal its potential in the pharmaceutical and/or cosmeceutical industries. Methanol and ethanol extracts and fractions from 15 beach-casts biomass were tested for a range of bioactivities. Eight of the most active samples exhibit IC50 values between 11.38 µg/mL and 19.28 µg/mL and selectivity indexes higher than 3.8, against NCI-H1299 (lung cancer) and T47D (breast cancer). Concerning antiaging potential, all the extracts tested presented UV protection, with SPF values above 30, like the standard sunscreen. Regarding aging-related enzymes, 24 samples were tyrosinase inhibitors exhibiting IC50 values from 9.01 µg/mL to 200.09 µg/mL. Eight extracts inhibited collagenase (IC50 < 248.76 µg/mL), two of them more actively than positive control EDTA (IC50 = 59.26 µg/mL). In addition to UV protection, the cumulative effect of antityrosinase and anticollagenase activities shown by the samples suggest that they may play a significant role in preventing skin photoaging. The results obtained demonstrate the high potential of beach-cast seaweed biomass as sources of cosmetic bioproducts with antiaging effects, and of selective cytotoxic metabolites.

Potential anti-ageing effect of chondroitin sulphate through skin regeneration

OBJECTIVE

Skin ageing is inevitably exposed through its typical features such as wrinkles and sagging. Therefore, skin anti-ageing is a major issue in cosmetic research to prevent and improve ageing symptoms using effective ingredients. Chondroitin sulphate (CS), a type of glycosaminoglycan, is an important structural component of the extracellular matrix (ECM) and is involved in various biological processes, such as cell proliferation, differentiation and migration. Here, we aimed to investigate the effects of CS on skin regeneration and examine its efficacy as a potential safe and effective skin anti-ageing ingredient.

METHODS

We investigated the effects of CS on cell proliferation in normal human keratinocytes and fibroblasts. Then, cell migration, ECM synthesis and related signalling pathways were examined in fibroblasts through gene and protein expression analysis. Finally, the effect on skin wound healing and regeneration was validated using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model.

RESULTS

Chondroitin sulphate treatment increased the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts. It also stimulated the migration and synthesis of ECM components of fibroblasts. Further analysis revealed that CS induced the expression of type I procollagen by activating the extracellular signal-regulated kinase pathway. Using a full-thickness skin wound model and an aged skin model, we confirmed that CS treatment promoted skin wound healing and regeneration.

CONCLUSION

Together, our results indicated that CS has the potential to facilitate skin regeneration, implying that CS could be clinically applied to improve skin ageing.

Medaka (Oryzias latipes) Embryo as a Model for the Screening of Compounds That Counteract the Damage Induced by Ultraviolet and High-Energy Visible Light

Continuous overexposure to sunlight increases its harmful effects on the skin. For this reason, there is a growing need to characterize economic models more representative of the negative effects and counteracting responses that irradiation causes on human skin. These models will serve for the screening of protective compounds against damage caused by ultraviolet (UV) and high energy visible light (HEV). Therefore, two common in vitro models employed for sunlight irradiation studies, namely human keratinocyte HaCat culture and reconstructed human epidermis (RHE), were compared with the medaka fish embryo model, traditionally used in other scientific disciplines. Using suberythemal doses of UVA and HEV to determine the level of Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) generation and thymine dimers formed by UVB, we show that medaka embryo responds with a lower damage level, more comparable to human skin, than the other two models, probably due to the protective mechanisms that work in a complete organism. In the same way, the protective effects of antioxidant compounds have the greatest effect on medaka embryos. Taken together, these findings suggest that medaka embryos would be a good alternative in vitro model for sunlight effect studies, and for the screening of molecules with counteracting capacity against the damage caused by UV and HEV.

Traditional fermented foods with anti-aging effect: A concentric review

Fermentation has been applied since antiquity as a way to preserve foodstuff or as a necessary step in the production of a variety of products. The research was initially focused on accurate description of production procedure and identification of parameters that may affect the composition and dynamics of the developing micro-communities, since the major aim was standardization and commercial exploitation of the products. Soon it was realized that consumption of these products was associated with an array of health benefits, such as anti-hypertensive, anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anti-carcinogenic and anti-allergenic activities. These were credited to the microorganisms present in the fermented products as well as their metabolic activities and the bio-transformations that took place during the fermentation process. Aging has been defined as a gradual decline in the physiological function and concomitantly homeostasis, which is experienced by all living beings over time, leading inevitably to age-associated injuries, diseases, and finally death. Research has focused on effective strategies to delay this process and thus increase both lifespan and well-being. Fermented food products seem to be a promising alternative due to the immunomodulatory effect of microorganisms and elevated amounts of bioactive compounds. Indeed, a series of anti-aging related benefits have been reported, some of which have been attributed to specific compounds such as genistein and daidzein in soybeans, while others are yet to be discovered. The present article aims to collect and critically discuss all available literature regarding the anti-aging properties of fermented food products.

So Uncommon and so Singular, but Underexplored: An Updated Overview on Ethnobotanical Uses, Biological Properties and Phytoconstituents of Sardinian Endemic Plants

The last decades have recorded an increase of plant-based drug discovery processes. Indeed, natural products possess a superior chemical diversity as compared to synthetic ones, leading to a renewal in searching for new therapeutic agents from the plant kingdom. In particular, since the structural variety of natural compounds reflects the biodiversity of their source organisms, regions of the world with high biodiversity and endemism deserve particular interest. In this context, Sardinia Island (Italy), with 290 endemic taxa (12% of the total flora), is expected to provide unique and structurally diverse phytochemicals for drug development. Several research groups built up a large program dedicated to the analysis of Sardinian endemic species, highlighting their peculiar features, both in respect of phytochemical and biological profiles. On this basis, the aim of this review is to provide an up-to-date and comprehensive overview on ethnobotanical uses, biological properties and phytoconstituents of Sardinian endemic plants in order to support their beneficial potential and to provide input for future investigations. We documented 152 articles published from 1965 to June 2020 in which a broad range of biological activities and the identification of previously undescribed compounds have been reported, supporting their great value as sources of therapeutic agents.

Improvement of wrinkles and skin tightening using TriPollar® radiofrequency with Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA™)

BACKGROUND

Radiofrequency (RF) energy promotes skin renewal by inducing tissue remodeling through dermal heating and neocollagenesis.

AIM

To evaluate the safety and effectiveness of a medical esthetic system that combines simultaneously TriPollar® RF energy with Dynamic Muscle Activation (DMA™) for improving facial skin tightness and wrinkles.

METHODS

A prospective, open-label study. Eleven subjects (mean age, 43 years; Fitzpatrick skin type II-IV) with Fitzpatrick Elastosis Scale (FES) score 3-6 were treated. The participants underwent six weekly treatments. Effectiveness of the treatments was evaluated at 1 and 3 months follow-ups after the last treatment, using the FES and evaluator- and subject-rated Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GAIS). Treatment safety and tolerance were evaluated as well. Pain was evaluated on a visual analog scale (VAS) of 0-10.

RESULTS

Treatment was safe, with minimal pain (VAS score less than 1), no adverse events, and no downtime. At 1 and 3 months follow-up evaluation, mean physician-rated FES statistically significantly improved from baseline (4.63 ± 0.88) by 2.27 ± 0.45 for both time points (P < .0001). According to investigator GAI scale at 3 months follow-up evaluations, 81.8% of patients were improved and 18.2% were much improved in fine lines, wrinkles and skin tightness.

CONCLUSIONS

Treatment with RF TriPollar® combined with DMA™ is effective and well-tolerated treatment for improving skin tightness and reducing wrinkles.

Purple tulip extract improves signs of skin aging through dermal structural modulation as shown by genomic, protein expression and skin appearance of volunteers studied

BACKGROUND

Purple tulip extract is a rich source of flavonoids which are powerful antioxidants and can hence be considered as an ideal candidate for use in skin care products.

AIMS

We aimed to evaluate the effects of purple tulip extract on skin quality and to determine its molecular modes of interaction.

METHODS

A pangenomic study on human skin fibroblasts was carried out to analyze multiple changes in gene expression. Ex vivo studies of human skin explants exposed to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation or H₂ O₂ were performed to assess modulations of protein expression. Finally, a clinical assay was carried out to evaluate the efficacy of purple tulip extract on skin appearance and condition of aged women.

RESULTS

Genetic modulation analyses led us to infer the induction of many biological functions including cell differentiation, proliferation, migration, inflammatory responses, and matrix remodeling. The ex vivo studies revealed an enhancement of the collagen network and increased expression of glycosaminoglycans (GAG), fibronectin, and collagen VI. Finally, the clinical study highlighted the potential anti-aging properties of the purple tulip extract which decreased the relaxation of the oval face and improved skin elasticity after 28 days of treatment. Significant reductions of the length and depth of the nasolabial wrinkles were also observed.

CONCLUSION

Our genomics data on the effect of purple tulip extract on the ex vivo UV-challenged skin showed that genes responsible for, among others, the upkeep of the skin, such as collagen induction, immune cell proliferation, and epidermal repair, were all up-regulated. More importantly, the clinical study corroborated these data by the visible and measurable effects of the topical purple tulip extract on the aged skin of 22 women, further demonstrating the beneficial impact of the extract on aged skin.

Marine-Derived Polymers in Ionic Liquids: Architectures Development and Biomedical Applications

Marine resources have considerable potential to develop high-value materials for applications in different fields, namely pharmaceutical, environmental, and biomedical. Despite that, the lack of solubility of marine-derived polymers in water and common organic solvents could restrict their applications. In the last years, ionic liquids (ILs) have emerged as platforms able to overcome those drawbacks, opening many routes to enlarge the use of marine-derived polymers as biomaterials, among other applications. From this perspective, ILs can be used as an efficient extraction media for polysaccharides from marine microalgae and wastes (e.g., crab shells, squid, and skeletons) or as solvents to process them in different shapes, such as films, hydrogels, nano/microparticles, and scaffolds. The resulting architectures can be applied in wound repair, bone regeneration, or gene and drug delivery systems. This review is focused on the recent research on the applications of ILs as processing platforms of biomaterials derived from marine polymers.

Cytoprotective effects of a proprietary red maple leaf extract and its major polyphenol, ginnalin A, against hydrogen peroxide and methylglyoxal induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes

Phytochemicals from functional foods are common ingredients in dietary supplements and cosmetic products for anti-skin aging effects due to their antioxidant activities. A proprietary red maple (Acer rubrum) leaf extract (Maplifa™) and its major phenolic compound, ginnalin A (GA), have been reported to show antioxidant, anti-melanogenesis, and anti-glycation effects but their protective effects against oxidative stress in human skin cells remain unknown. Herein, we investigated the cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA against hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) and methylglyoxal (MGO)-induced oxidative stress in human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). H2O2 and MGO (both at 400 μM) induced toxicity in HaCaT cells and reduced their viability to 59.2 and 61.6%, respectively. Treatment of Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) increased the viability of H2O2- and MGO-treated cells by 22.0 and 15.5%, respectively. Maplifa™ and GA also showed cytoprotective effects by reducing H2O2-induced apoptosis in HaCaT cells by 8.0 and 7.2%, respectively. The anti-apoptotic effect of Maplifa™ was further supported by the decreased levels of apoptosis associated enzymes including caspases-3/7 and -8 in HaCaT cells by 49.5 and 19.0%, respectively. In addition, Maplifa™ (50 μg mL-1) and GA (50 μM) reduced H2O2- and MGO-induced reactive oxygen species (ROS) by 84.1 and 56.8%, respectively. Furthermore, flow cytometry analysis showed that Maplifa™ and GA reduced MGO-induced total cellular ROS production while increasing mitochondria-derived ROS production in HaCaT cells. The cytoprotective effects of Maplifa™ and GA in human keratinocytes support their potential utilization for cosmetic and/or dermatological applications.

Depiction of ethnic facial aging by forensic artists and preliminary assessment of the applicability of facial averages

Many characteristics of facial aging are common to all. The age of their onset and which characteristics tend to predominate varies among individuals depending on many factors including their genetic makeup, life experiences, environment in which they live, and the regional, ethnic, or socially perceived group to which they belong. Forensic artists are often asked to provide sketches, 2D or 3D digital renderings, or sculptures representative of how an individual may appear at an older age based on a provided photograph, victim or witness description, and/or cranial remains. The challenge escalates when the subject is a member of a regional, ethnic, or other socially perceived group to which the artist has had little or no exposure. We describe aspects of adult facial aging that are of particular relevance to the forensic artist, applicable software tools, and pertinent facial databases, especially those emphasizing non-white populations. We demonstrate that facial averaging offers two key advantages to the artistic portrayal of facial aging: first, the technique requires relatively small reference databases from groups that may present logistical challenges to collect and second, that a facial average provides a useful representation of the gestalt of the age and ethnicity cohort to which a subject belongs. The artist may use an average along with other available information such as photo reference books, eyewitness descriptions, photos of immediate family members, and cranial structure to guide production of a facial composite drawing, digital age progression, or sculpture of the subject in question.

Galactose-Induced Skin Aging: The Role of Oxidative Stress

Skin aging has been associated with a higher dietary intake of carbohydrates, particularly glucose and galactose. In fact, the carbohydrates are capable of damaging the skin's vital components through nonenzymatic glycation, the covalent attachment of sugar to a protein, and subsequent production of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). This review is focused on the role of D-galactose in the development of skin aging and its relation to oxidative stress. The interest in this problem was dictated by recent findings that used in vitro and in vivo models. The review highlights the recent advances in the underlying molecular mechanisms of D-galactose-mediated cell senescence and cytotoxicity. We have also proposed the possible impact of galactosemia on skin aging and its clinical relevance. The understanding of molecular mechanisms of skin aging mediated by D-galactose can help dermatologists optimize methods for prevention and treatment of skin senescence and aging-related skin diseases.

Andrographis paniculata and Its Bioactive Diterpenoids Against Inflammation and Oxidative Stress in Keratinocytes

Andrographis paniculata was widely used in traditional herbal medicine to treat various diseases. This study explored the potential anti-aging activity of Andrographis paniculata in cutaneous cells. Human, adult, low calcium, high temperature (HaCaT) cells were treated with methanolic extract (ME), andrographolide (ANDRO), neoandrographolide (NEO), 14-deoxyandrographolide (14DAP) and 14-deoxy-11,12-didehydroandrographolide (14DAP11-12). Oxidative stress and inflammation were induced by hydrogen peroxide and lipopolysaccharide/TNF-α, respectively. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) production was measured by fluorescence using a 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA) probe and cytokines were quantified by ELISA for interleukin-8 (IL-8) or reverse transcription-quantitative polymerase chain reaction (RT-qPCR) for tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α). Hyaluronic acid (HA) secretion was determined by an ELISA. Our results show a decrease in ROS production and TNF-α expression by ME (5 µg/mL) in HaCaT under pro-oxidant and pro-inflammatory conditions, respectively. ME protected HaCaT against oxidative stress and inflammation. Our findings confirm that ME can be used for the development of bioactive compounds against epidermal damage.

Efficacy, Stability, and Safety Evaluation of New Polyphenolic Xanthones Towards Identification of Bioactive Compounds to Fight Skin Photoaging

Antioxidants have long been used in the cosmetic industry to prevent skin photoaging, which is mediated by oxidative stress, making the search for new antioxidant compounds highly desirable in this field. Naturally occurring xanthones are polyphenolic compounds that can be found in microorganisms, fungi, lichens, and some higher plants. This class of polyphenols has a privileged scaffold that grants them several biological activities. We have previously identified simple oxygenated xanthones as promising antioxidants and disclosed as hit, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1). Herein, we synthesized and studied the potential of xanthones with different polyoxygenated patterns as skin antiphotoaging ingredients. In the DPPH antioxidant assay, two newly synthesized derivatives showed IC₅₀ values in the same range as ascorbic acid. The synthesized xanthones were discovered to be excellent tyrosinase inhibitors and weak to moderate collagenase and elastase inhibitors but no activity was revealed against hyaluronidase. Their metal-chelating effect (FeCl₃ and CuCl₂) as well as their stability at different pH values were characterized to understand their potential to be used as future cosmetic active agents. Among the synthesized polyoxygenated xanthones, 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was reinforced as the most promising, exhibiting a dual ability to protect the skin against UV damage by combining antioxidant/metal-chelating properties with UV-filter capacity and revealed to be more stable in the pH range that is close to the pH of the skin. Lastly, the phototoxicity of 1,2-dihydroxyxanthone (1) was evaluated in a human keratinocyte cell line and no phototoxicity was observed in the concentration range tested.