Lightening Effect on Ultraviolet-Induced Pigmentation of Guinea Pig Skin by Oral Administration of a Proanthocyanidin-Rich Extract from Grape Seeds

Steroids and Fatty Acid Esters from Cyperus sexangularis Leaf and Their Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Elastase Properties

Cyperus sexangularis (CS) is a plant in the sedges family (Cyperaceae) that grows abundantly in swampy areas. The leaf sheath of plants in the Cyperus genus are mostly used domestically for mat making, while they are implicated for skin treatment in traditional medicine. The plant was investigated for its phytochemical contents as well as its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. The n-hexane and dichloromethane leaf extracts were chromatographed on a silica gel column to afford compounds 1-6. The compounds were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. The inhibitory effect of each compound against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitric oxide (NO) and ferric ion radicals were determined by standard in vitro antioxidant methods. The in vitro anti-inflammatory response was measured using egg albumin denaturation (EAD) assay, while the anti-elastase activity of each compound in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells was also monitored. The compounds were characterized as three steroidal derivatives, stigmasterol (1), 17-(1-methyl-allyl)-hexadecahydro-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene (2) and β-sitosterol (3), dodecanoic acid (4) and two fatty acid esters, ethyl nonadecanoate (5) and ethyl stearate (6). Stigmasterol (1) exhibited the best biological properties, with IC₅₀ of 38.18 ± 2.30 µg/mL against DPPH, 68.56 ± 4.03 µg/mL against NO and 303.58 ± 10.33 µAAE/mg against Fe³⁺. At 6.25 µg/mL, stigmasterol inhibited EAD by 50%. This activity was lower when compared to diclofenac (standard), which demonstrated 75% inhibition of the protein at the same concentration. Compounds 1, 3, 4 and 5 showed comparable anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ ≥ 50 µg/mL, whereas the activity of ursolic acid (standard) was double fold with an IC₅₀ of 24.80 ± 2.60 µg/mL when compared to each of the compounds. In conclusion, this study has identified three steroids (1-3), one fatty acid (4), and two fatty acid esters (5 and 6) in C. sexangularis leaf for the first time. The compounds showed considerable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. Thus, the findings may serve as a justification for the folkloric use of the plant as a local skin ingredient. It may also serve to validate the biological role of steroids and fatty acid compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.

Feeding broilers with wheat germ, hops and grape seed extract mixture improves growth performance

In the study, Wheat germ, Hops and Grape seed extracts were made into a mixture (BX). The BX was supplemented in AA + broilers diets to investigate the effects of BX on broiler growth performance, blood indicators, microbiota, and noxious gas emissions in faeces. Four hundred and eighty 1-day-old AA + male broilers with an average initial body weight (44.82 ± 0.26) were randomly divided into four dietary treatments of six replicates each, with 20 birds per replicate. The experimental groups consisted of a group fed a basal diet and groups fed basal diet supplemented with 0.05%, 0.1%, and 0.2% BX. The trail was 42 days. The results showed that supplementing the dietary with graded levels of BX linearly increased ADG and ADFI from days 22–42 and 1–42. When dietarys supplemented with 0.2% BX significantly increased ADG and ADFI on days 22–42 and 1–42 (p < 0.05). The addition of BX reduced H2S and NH3 emissions in the faeces; the levels of E. coli and Salmonella in the faeces were significantly reduced and the levels of Lactobacillus were increased (p < 0.05). In this trial, when the diet was supplemented with 0.2% BX, faecal levels of E. coli and Salmonella were consistently at their lowest levels and Lactobacillus were at their highest. At the same time, NH3 and H2S emissions from broiler faecal also had been at their lowest levels. Conclusion: Dietary supplementation with a 0.2% BX could improve the growth performance of broilers and also reduced faecal H2S and NH3 emissions, as well as faecal levels of E. coli and Salmonella, and increased levels of Lactobacillus. Thus, BX made by Wheat germ, Hops and Grape seed extract is expected to be an alternative to antibiotics. And based on the results of this trial, the recommended dose for use in on-farm production was 0.2%.

Structural Optimization of Cannabidiol as Multifunctional Cosmetic Raw Materials

Cannabidiol (CBD), derived from the plant cannabis, can be used in the cosmetics industry for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. However, CBD is purified from the hemp plant extract, its source is very limited and under strict control. So in this study, computational and experimental methods were combined to search for novel CBD substitutes with high biology potencies. The action mode between CBD and target protein cannabidiol receptor 1 was studied to find the key skeleton, which was used to virtually screen a natural products database to search for compounds with 70% similarity. The hit compounds with high docking scores were selected for the ABTS and DPPH free radical scavenging experiments for antioxidant evaluation. The effects on the expressions of nitric oxide (NO), interleukin-6 (IL-6), COX-2 and iNOS in RAW264.7 cell line were detected to demonstrate their anti-inflammatory abilities. The effect of anti-wrinkle ability were evaluated by detecting the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in HFF-1. The effects on melanin production and tyrosinase activity in Bb16F10 were also detected. As a result, two compounds were found to be superior to cannabidiol, in terms of antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening efficacy with a lower cytotoxicity.

The melanin inhibitory effect of plants and phytochemicals: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Melanin plays an important role in protecting human skin, while excessive synthesis of melanin can cause abnormal pigmentation and induce skin diseases. Long-term use of commercial whitening agents in managing skin melanin such as kojic acid and arbutin can lead to some negative effects such as dermatitis and liver cancer. Although past studies have researched the melanin inhibitory effect of plant extracts, the effective dose and mechanisms are not well summarized and discussed. This study aims to explore the melanin inhibitory property of phytochemicals and tries to answer the following research questions: (1) Which plant extracts and phytochemicals could inhibit melanin biosynthesis in the skin? what is the mechanism of action? (2) Have human trials been conducted to confirm their melanin inhibitory effect? (3) If not, which phytochemicals are recommended for further human trials? This article would provide information for future research to develop natural and safe skin whitening products.

METHODS

A preferred reporting items for systematic reviews and meta-analyses (PRISMA) systematic review method and OHAT risk-of-bias tool were applied to screen literature from 2000 to 2021 and 50 research articles met the selection criteria.

RESULTS

Flavonoids, phenolic acids, stilbenes and terpenes are main classes of phytochemicals responsible for the melanin inhibitory effects. The in vitro/in vivo melanin inhibitory effects of these plant extracts/phytochemicals are achieved via three main mechanisms: (1) the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv., and phytochemicals such as galangin and origanoside could manage melanin biosynthesis through competitive inhibition, non-competitive inhibition or mixed-type inhibition of tyrosinase; (2) phytochemicals such as ginsenoside F1, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde could inhibit melanogenesis through down-regulating microphthalmia-related transcription factor (MITF) gene expression via different signalling pathways; (3) the ethanolic extracts of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius have a good ultraviolet absorption ability and high sun protective factor (SPF) values, thereby inhibiting UV induced melanogenesis in the skin.

CONCLUSION

Although many plant extracts and phytochemicals have been found to inhibit melanin production, most of the results were only proved in cellular and/or animal models. Only the ethyl acetate extract of Oryza sativa Indica cv. panicle, and ginsenoside F1 were proved effective in human trials. Animal studies proved the effectiveness of galangin, origanoside, ginsenoside Rb1 and 4‑hydroxy-3-methoxycinnamaldehyde with effective dose below 3 mM, and therefore recommended for future human trial. In addition, cellular studies have demonstrated the effectiveness of oxyresveratrol, mulberroside A, kurarinol, kuraridinol, plumbagin, (6aR,11aR)-3,8-dihydroxy-9‑methoxy pterocarpan, ginsenoside Rh4, cardamonin, nobiletin, curcumin, β-mangostin and emodin in inhibiting melanin synthesis at low concentrations of 20 µM and proved the low SPF values of Dimorphandra gardneriana, Dimorphandra gardneriana, Lippia microphylla and Schinus terebinthifolius extracts, and therefore recommended for further animal and human trials.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Effect of Grass Carp Scale Collagen Peptide FTGML on cAMP-PI3K/Akt and MAPK Signaling Pathways in B16F10 Melanoma Cells and Correlation between Anti-Melanin and Antioxidant Properties

Peptide Phe-Thr-Gly-Met-Leu (FTGML) is a bioactive oligopeptide with tyrosinase inhibitory activity derived from gelatin hydrolysate of grass carp scales. Previous studies have shown that FTGML addition can effectively inhibit mushroom tyrosinase activity in vitro, and also has some effect on the inhibition of melanogenesis in zebrafish in vivo, but the underlying mechanism is not fully understood. In this study, we used FTGML to treat B16F10 melanoma cells, and found a significant inhibition of tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis. Interestingly, the treatment showed a strong correlation between antioxidant activity and anti-melanin, which was associated with FTGML reducing the involvement of reactive oxygen species in melanin synthesis. Furthermore, FTGML reduced melanogenesis in B16F10 cells by downregulating the cAMP-PI3K/Akt and MAPK pathways (p38 and JNK). These results suggested that FTGML can reduce melanin production in mouse B16F10 melanoma cells through multiple pathways.

Pistacia lentiscus L. Distilled Leaves as a Potential Cosmeceutical Ingredient: Phytochemical Characterization, Transdermal Diffusion, and Anti-Elastase and Anti-Tyrosinase Activities

The present work was performed to investigate the phenolic composition of P. lentiscus L. distilled leaves (PDL) and examine its potential against certain key enzymes related to skin aging. High-pressure liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS) and various separation procedures combined with nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) and MS analysis were performed to isolate and identify compounds present in the ethyl acetate extract (EAE) of PDL. A high amount of flavonol glycoside was detected in EAE. Indeed, quercetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FC), myricetin-3-O-rhamnoside (FM2), and kaempferol-3-O-rhamnoside (FB2) were isolated from EAE, and are present in high quantities of 10.47 ± 0.26, 12.17 ± 0.74, and 4.53 ± 0.59 mg/g dry weight, respectively. A transdermal diffusion study was carried out to determine the EAE-molecules that may transmit the cutaneous barrier and showed that FM2 transmits the membrane barrier with a high amount followed by FC. EAE, FM2, and FC were tested against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. Moreover, intracellular tyrosinase inhibition and cytotoxicity on skin melanoma cells (B16) were evaluated. The results indicated that EAE, FC, and FM2 have important inhibitory activities compared to the well-known standards, at non-cytotoxic concentrations. Therefore, they could be excellent agents for treating skin pigmentation and elasticity problems.

Promising Natural Products in New Drug Design, Development, and Therapy for Skin Disorders: An Overview of Scientific Evidence and Understanding Their Mechanism of Action

The skin is the largest organ in the human body, composed of the epidermis and the dermis. It provides protection and acts as a barrier against external menaces like allergens, chemicals, systemic toxicity, and infectious organisms. Skin disorders like cancer, dermatitis, psoriasis, wounds, skin aging, acne, and skin infection occur frequently and can impact human life. According to a growing body of evidence, several studies have reported that natural products have the potential for treating skin disorders. Building on this information, this review provides brief information about the action of the most important in vitro and in vivo research on the use of ten selected natural products in inflammatory, neoplastic, and infectious skin disorders and their mechanisms that have been reported to date. The related studies and articles were searched from several databases, including PubMed, Google, Google Scholar, and ScienceDirect. Ten natural products that have been reported widely on skin disorders were reviewed in this study, with most showing anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-microbial, and anti-cancer effects as the main therapeutic actions. Overall, most of the natural products reported in this review can reduce and suppress inflammatory markers, like tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-α), scavenge reactive oxygen species (ROS), induce cancer cell death through apoptosis, and prevent bacteria, fungal, and virus infections indicating their potentials. This review also highlighted the challenges and opportunities of natural products in transdermal/topical delivery systems and their safety considerations for skin disorders. Our findings indicated that natural products might be a low-cost, well-tolerated, and safe treatment for skin diseases. However, a larger number of clinical trials are required to validate these findings. Natural products in combination with modern drugs, as well as the development of novel delivery mechanisms, represent a very promising area for future drug discovery of these natural leads against skin disorders.

Encapsulated Activated Grape Seed Extract: A Novel Formulation with Anti-Aging, Skin-Brightening, and Hydration Properties

Protein phosphatase 2A (PP2A) is a master regulatory protein that plays a critical role in oxidative stress signaling. A novel, proprietary grape seed extract called Activated Grape Seed Extract (AGSE), enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids, was recently developed and demonstrated to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities. AGSE is a purple-colored powder, with limited solubility restricting its use in a broad range of formulations. Our aim was to develop a formulation that reduced the color and increased the solubility of AGSE, allowing its skin-health-enhancing properties to be utilized in a wider array of products, and to test it clinically. Encapsulation was performed utilizing a liposome and hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, (HPCD)-based approach to produce Encapsulated AGSE (E-AGSE). Human dermal fibroblasts and epidermal keratinocytes were used to determine expression levels of aging and dermal–epidermal junction (DEJ) markers. EpiDerm™ was UVB-irradiated to measure the effects against cytokine release, DNA damage, apoptosis, and skin barrier. Human melanocytes were used to determine melanin production and mushroom tyrosinase was used for inhibitory activity. A 4-week, 31-subject sensitive-skin clinical was performed with 2% E-AGSE Essence to assess its activity on human skin. We demonstrated that E-AGSE inhibits PP2A demethylation, increases key anti-aging (collagen I, III, elastin) and DEJ markers, protects against UVB-induced DNA damage, reduces inflammation, and promotes filaggrin in vitro. Moreover, E-AGSE reduces melanin production via tyrosinase inhibition. Clinical assessment of E-AGSE showed that it reduces the appearance of wrinkles, brightens the skin, and boosts hydration. E-AGSE is a novel grape seed extract formulation enriched for PP2A-activating flavonoids that is clinically effective in sensitive skin, providing several benefits.

Exploring the Potential of Nannochloropsis sp. Extract for Cosmeceutical Applications

Recently, there has been emerging interest in various natural products with skin protective effects as they are recognized as safe and efficient. Microalgae have developed chemical defense systems to protect themselves against oxidative stress caused by UV radiation by producing various bioactive compounds including a number of secondary metabolites, which have potential for cosmeceutical applications. In addition, microalgae have various advantages as a sustainable source for bioactive compounds with diverse functions due to their rapid growth rate, high productivity, and use of non-arable land. In this study, we aimed to investigate the cosmeceutical potential of ethanol extract from Nannochloropsis sp. G1-5 (NG15) isolated from the southern West Sea of the Republic of Korea. It contained PUFAs (including EPA), carotenoids (astaxanthin, canthaxanthin, β-carotene, zeaxanthin, violaxanthin), and phenolic compounds, which are known to have various skin protective functions. We confirmed that the NG15 extract showed various skin protective functions with low cytotoxicity, specifically anti-melanogenic, antioxidant, skin-moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkling, and UV protective function, by measuring tyrosinase inhibition activity; melanin content; DPPH radical scavenging activity; expression of HAS-2, MMP-1, and Col1A1 genes; and elastase inhibition activity as well as cell viability after UV exposure. Our results indicated that the NG15 extract has the potential to be used for the development of natural cosmetics with a broad range of skin protective functions.

In vitro anti-melanogenic effect of Perilla frutescens leaf extracts

Introduction: Perilla frutescens (L.) Britt leaves contain various phenolic compounds, especially flavonoids, which potentially inhibit tyrosinase, the key enzyme catalyzing the melanin synthesis pathway. This work aimed to investigate the anti-melanogenic effect of Perilla frutescens extracts through the inhibition of non-cellular as well as cellular tyrosinase activities. Methods: The total extract from Perilla frutescens leaves was obtained by percolation method with 50% ethanol followed by liquid–liquid partition with ethyl acetate (EA) and chloroform (CF) to obtain the EA, CF and EA/CF extracts. The mushroom tyrosinase inhibitory effect of the obtained extracts was screened by dopachrome formation reactions from its substrate 3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine. The extracts with potential activity were further evaluated for the anti-melanogenic effects in the B16F10 melanoma cell line. Results: EA and EA/CF extracts significantly inhibited mushroom tyrosinase activity with the IC50s of 0.14 and 0.07 mg/mL, respectively, in the same range of that from kojic acid (0.12 mg/mL). Consistently, in B16F10 cells, these extracts inhibited tyrosinase enzyme; their IC50 values were 2 times lower than that of kojic acid. Moreover, both EA and EA/CF extracts remarkably reduced melanin levels in a concentration-dependent manner. Conclusion: The EA and EA/CF extracts from Perilla frutescens leaves were able to inhibit melanogenesis by reducing tyrosinase activity.

Plant-Based Foods for Skin Health: A Narrative Review

The potential role of plant-based foods in the promotion of skin health is an emerging area of nutrition research. Plant-based foods are rich in bioactive compounds, including vitamin C, vitamin E, beta carotene, polyphenols, and phenolic acids, which can contribute to oxidant defense, lower inflammation, and promote structural support of the skin. Epidemiological studies have associated higher intakes of select fruits and vegetables with positive skin health. Beneficial effects of certain fruits, vegetables, nuts, legumes, and polyphenolic-rich beverages on the skin have been reported, with each of these providing a unique phytochemical composition. Although most studies use extracts, this review will focus on data from whole foods and minimally processed products. Collectively, the evidence to date suggests a promising future for plant-based dietary interventions that promote skin barrier health and function. However, additional research is required to address issues such as the optimal quality and duration of intake as well as potential mechanisms. Studies in the above areas will help formulate specific targeted dietary recommendations.

High Therapeutic and Esthetic Properties of Extracellular Vesicles Produced from the Stem Cells and Their Spheroids Cultured from Ocular Surgery-Derived Waste Orbicularis Oculi Muscle Tissues

Extracellular vesicles (EVs) are paracrine factors that mediate stem cell therapeutics. We aimed at evaluating the possible therapeutic and esthetic applications of EVs prepared from the waste human facial tissue-derived orbicularis oculi muscle stem cells (OOM-SCs). OOM-SCs were isolated from the ocular tissues (from elders and youngsters) after upper eyelid blepharoplasty or epiblepharon surgeries. EVs were prepared from the OOM-SCs (OOM-SC-EVs) and their three-dimensional spheroids. OOM-SCs showed a spindle-like morphology with trilineage differentiation capacity, positive expression of CD105, CD 90, and CD73, and negative expression of CD45 and CD34, and their stem cell properties were compared with other adult mesenchymal stem cells. OOM-SC-EVs showed a high inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis in B16F10 cells by blocking tyrosinase activity. OOM-SC-EVs treatment led to a significant attenuation of senescence-associated changes, a decrease in reactive oxygen species generation, and an upregulation of antioxidant genes. We demonstrated the regeneration activity of OOM-SC-EVs in in vitro wound healing of normal human dermal fibroblasts and upregulation of anti-wrinkle-related genes and confirmed the therapeutic potential of OOM-SC-EVs in the healing of the in vivo wound model. Our study provides promising therapeutic and esthetic applications of OOM-SC-EVs, which can be obtained from the ocular surgery-derived waste human facial tissues.

Oxidative stress in the skin: Impact and related protection

Skin, our first interface to the external environment, is subjected to oxidative stress caused by a variety of factors such as solar ultraviolet, infrared and visible light, environmental pollution, including ozone and particulate matters, and psychological stress. Excessive reactive species, including reactive oxygen species and reactive nitrogen species, exacerbate skin pigmentation and aging, which further lead to skin tone unevenness, pigmentary disorder, skin roughness and wrinkles. Besides these, skin microbiota are also a very important factor ensuring the proper functions of skin. While environmental factors such as UV and pollutants impact skin microbiota compositions, skin dysbiosis results in various skin conditions. In this review, we summarize the generation of oxidative stress from exogenous and endogenous sources. We further introduce current knowledge on the possible roles of oxidative stress in skin pigmentation and aging, specifically with emphasis on oxidative stress and skin pigmentation. Meanwhile, we summarize the science and rationale of using three well-known antioxidants, namely vitamin C, resveratrol and ferulic acid, in the treatment of hyperpigmentation. Finally, we discuss the strategy for preventing oxidative stress-induced skin pigmentation and aging.

Administration of Apple Polyphenol Supplements for Skin Conditions in Healthy Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

This clinical study was performed to evaluate the effects of continuous apple polyphenol (AP) administration on facial skin conditions and pigmentation induced by ultraviolet (UV) irradiation in healthy women participants. Participants (n = 65, age 20–39 years) were randomized to receive tablets containing AP (300 or 600 mg/day) or placebo in a double-blinded, placebo-controlled clinical trial. Continuous administration of AP for 12 weeks significantly prevented UV irradiation induced skin pigmentation (erythema value, melanin value, L value), although a dose-dependent relationship was not clearly observed. In contrast, no significant differences were detected between the groups with regard to water content and trans-epidermal water loss. Our study demonstrated that APs and their major active compounds, procyanidins, have several health benefits. Here, we report that continuous administration of AP for 12 weeks alleviated UV irradiation induced skin pigmentation, when compared with placebo, in healthy women.

Can Plant Phenolic Compounds Protect the Skin from Airborne Particulate Matter?

The skin is directly exposed to the polluted atmospheric environment, and skin diseases, such as atopic dermatitis and acne vulgaris, can be induced or exacerbated by airborne particulate matter (PM). PM can also promote premature skin aging with its accompanying functional and morphological changes. PM-induced skin diseases and premature skin aging are largely mediated by reactive oxygen species (ROS), and the harmful effects of PM may be ameliorated by safe and effective natural antioxidants. Experimental studies have shown that the extracts and phenolic compounds derived from many plants, such as cocoa, green tea, grape, pomegranate, and some marine algae, have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects on PM-exposed cells. The phenolic compounds can decrease the levels of ROS in cells and/or enhance cellular antioxidant capacity and, thereby, can attenuate PM-induced oxidative damage to nucleic acids, proteins, and lipids. They also lower the levels of cytokines, chemokines, cell adhesion molecules, prostaglandins, and matrix metalloproteinases implicated in cellular inflammatory responses to PM. Although there is still much research to be done, current studies in this field suggest that plant-derived phenolic compounds may have a protective effect on skin exposed to high levels of air pollution.

Pharmacological activities of 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one, a new compound isolated from Ryudai gold (Curcuma longa)

We previously reported the antifungal, antioxidant, and vasodilator effects of Ryudai gold (RD) and isolated some potentially active compounds. Here, we aimed to identify other active compounds present in RD and investigate their pharmacological effects, in terms of antioxidant, and inhibitory activities against skin disease-related enzymes, pancreatic α-amylase, and lipase enzymes. The methanol extract of RD rhizomes was subjected to repeated fractionation by silica gel column, Toyopearl HW-40F column, and high-performance liquid chromatography to obtain a pure compound. The isolated compound was characterized by analyzing its spectroscopic data, particularly nuclear magnetic resonance spectra. Inhibitory activities against α-amylase, pancreatic lipase, elastase, collagenase, xanthine oxidase, and tyrosinase were evaluated to investigate its potential antidiabetic, antiobesity, and enzyme inhibitory effects. Antioxidant activity was evaluated using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl-scavenging, reducing power, and 2-deoxyribose degradation assays. The purified compound was recognized as 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one, a new compound. The content of this compound was 0.068 μmol/g or 0.016 mg/g of dry RG powder. Our results suggested that 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one exhibited antidiabetic, antiobesity, enzyme inhibitory, and antioxidant activities by inhibiting their respective enzymes activity. 4-methylene-8-hydroxybisabola-2,10-diene-9-one could be a promising candidate therapeutic agent or a lead compound for the development of new synthetic drugs.

Oral supplementation of L-glutathione prevents ultraviolet B-induced melanogenesis and oxidative stress in BALB/c mice

Dietary antioxidant supplements such as L-glutathione have gained considerable attention in dermatology and cosmeceutical fields. L-glutathione possesses antiaging, antimelanogenic, antioxidant, and anticancer properties. This study aimed to investigate the inhibitory effects of L-glutathione on melanogenesis activity and oxidative stress in ultraviolet B (UVB)-irradiated BALB/c mice. Eighteen female BALB/c mice were randomly divided into 3 groups: a control group (n=6), a group without UVB irradiation and L-glutathione administration; a UVB irradiated group (n=6), a group irradiated with a UVB dose of 250 mJ/cm² for 3 min; and a treatment group (n=6), a group irradiated with UVB and treated with 100 mg/kg of L-glutathione by oral gavage. Treatment was given for 14 days, and UVB irradiation was given on days 9, 11, and 13. Oral L-glutathione significantly (P<0.05) reduced lipid peroxidation and elevated superoxide dismutase activity the and glutathione level. L-glutathione also inhibited melanin content and tyrosinase activity significantly (P<0.05) as compared with the UVB-irradiated group. Histopathological examination also showed that L-glutathione reduced the deposition of melanin pigment in the basal layer of the epidermis as compared with that in UVB-irradiated mice. All in all, the present study demonstrated that L-glutathione has the potential to be developed as a photoprotection agent against UVB-induced oxidative stress and melanogenesis.

Ameliorative effects of snake (Deinagkistrodon acutus) oil and its main fatty acids against UVB-induced skin photodamage in mice

The effects of topically administered snake (Deinagkistrodon acutus) oil and its main fatty acid components on skin photodamage were explored. Epidermal thickness, mice body weight, antioxidant enzymes (superoxide dismutase, glutathione peroxidase, catalase), inflammatory cytokines (tumor necrosis factor alpha and interleukin-6), skin histology, collagen content, and metalloproteinase-1 indicators were analyzed. The results show that topical application of both snake oil and its main fatty acids recovered ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation induced antioxidant enzymes depletion, prevented metalloproteinase-1. Snake oil and its main fatty acids suppressed dermal infiltration of inflammatory cells and reduced inflammatory cytokines levels. Notably, there was no significant difference in the antioxidant activity but a significant difference in the anti-inflammatory activity between fatty acids and snake oil under the same dose. Finally, snake oil and its main fatty acids inhibited UVB-induced histological damage such as epidermal thickening, collagen fiber and elastic fiber destruction. Our study demonstrated for the first time in KM mice that snake oil exhibited prominent photoprotection activity by protecting the activity of antioxidant enzymes and inhibiting inflammatory factors, as well as reducing the generation of MMP-1. What's more, the main fatty acids in snake oil play an important role in preventing photo-damage especially in protecting antioxidant enzyme activity.

Dietary compounds and cutaneous malignant melanoma: recent advances from a biological perspective

Cutaneous malignant melanoma is a heterogeneous disease, being the consequence of specific genetic alterations along several molecular pathways. Despite the increased knowledge about the biology and pathogenesis of melanoma, the incidence has grown markedly worldwide, making it extremely important to develop preventive measures. The beneficial role of correct nutrition and of some natural dietary compounds in preventing malignant melanoma has been widely demonstrated. This led to numerous studies investigating the role of several dietary attitudes, patterns, and supplements in the prevention of melanoma, and ongoing research investigates their impact in the clinical management and outcomes of patients diagnosed with the disease. This article is an overview of recent scientific advances regarding specific dietary compounds and their impact on melanoma development and treatment.

Implications of grape extract and its nanoformulated bioactive agent resveratrol against skin disorders

The grape seed extract (GSE) and its main active polyphenol, resveratrol (RES), have shown considerable antioxidant activities, besides possessed protective and therapeutic effects against various skin complications. This paper discusses the favorable effects of RES, GSE and their nanoformulations for dermatological approaches, with specific emphasis on clinical interventions. In this manner, electronic databases including PubMed, Science Direct and Google Scholar were searched. Data were collected from 1980 up to February 2019. The search terms included "Vitis vinifera", "grape", "resveratrol", "skin", "dermatology", and "nanoformulation". To increase the skin permeability of GSE and RES, several innovative nanoformulation such as liposomes, niosomes, solid-lipid nanoparticles, nanostructured lipid carriers, and lipid-core nanocapsule has been evaluated. According to our extensive searches, both RES and GSE have beneficial impacts on skin disorders such as chloasma, acne vulgaris, skin aging, as well as wound and facial redness. More clinical studies with nanoformulation approaches are recommended to achieve conclusive outcomes regarding the efficacy of RES and GSE in the management of skin diseases.

Extraction conditions for Rosa gallica petal extracts with anti-skin aging activities

The anti-skin inflammatory activities of rose petal extracts have been described in our previous study. Because skin inflammation is closely linked to skin aging, our study investigated the effects of Rosa gallica petals on skin aging-related activities such as skin whitening and anti-wrinkle properties. Each sample was prepared via extraction using different ethanol ratios with the objective of evaluationg optimal extraction conditions for industrial application. Aqueous 50% (v/v) EtOH extract of R. gallica petal significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity, melanin production, and solar UV-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1, a hall mark of wrinkle formation. In addition, the aqueous 50% (v/v) EtOH extract showed the highest antioxidative effect and had highest flavonoid contents, consistent with the reported anti-aging effects. Overall, our findings suggest that R. gallica petals extracts exhibit anti-aging effects. Furthermore, 50% EtOH extraction, in particular, was optimal for the highest anti-aging, and anti-oxidative effects as well as to obtain the highest flavonoid content.

Antioxidant and skin-whitening effects of aerial part of Euphorbia supina Raf. Extract

Background

Euphorbia supina (ES) has been widely used in folk medicine owing to its antibacterial, hemostatic, and anti-inflammatory properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the antioxidant and skin-whitening effects of a 70% ethanol extract of ES.

Methods

The aerial parts of ES plant were extracted with 70% ethanol. The viability of B16F10 cells was evaluated by MTT assay to determine the non-toxic doses for further experiments. The tyrosinase and cellular tyrosinase activities were then measured using an enzyme-substrate assay. In addition, the expression of whitening-related proteins was measured using western blot.

Results

The antioxidant activity of the ES samples increased in a dose-dependent manner, as confirmed by their radical scavenging activities in the 2,2-diphenyl-1-1-picrylhydrazyl and 2,2-azino-bis-(3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) assays. The ES extract significantly reduced tyrosinase activity and melanin content in a dose-dependent manner. Furthermore, it decreased α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (MSH)-induced protein expression of tyrosinase and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF).

Conclusions

Our results indicate that the ES extract attenuated α-MSH-stimulated melanin synthesis by modulating tyrosinase and MITF expression. Therefore, the ES extract could be a promising therapeutic agent to treat hyperpigmentation and as an ingredient for skin-whitening cosmetics.

Improved antimelanogenesis and antioxidant effects of polysaccharide from Cuscuta chinensis Lam seeds after enzymatic hydrolysis

Cuscuta chinensis polysaccharide (CPS) was extracted using hot water and enzymatically hydrolyzed C. chinensis polysaccharide (ECPS) was produced by the mannase enzymatic hydrolysis process. The purpose of this research was to investigate the antimelanogenic activity of ECPS and CPS in B16F10 melanoma cells. The in vitro antioxidant activity was assessed by their ferric iron reducing power and DPPH free radical scavenging activities. The molecular mass distribution of polysaccharides was determined using SEC-MALLS-RI. CPS was successfully enzymatically degraded using mannase and the weighted average molecular weights of CPS and ECPS were 434.6 kDa and 211.7 kDa. The results of biological activity assays suggested that the enzymatically hydrolyzed polysaccharide had superior antimelanogenic activity and antioxidant effect than the original polysaccharide. ECPS exhibited antimelanogenic activity by down-regulating the expression of tyrosinase, MITF, and TRP-1 without cytotoxic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. In conclusion, ECPS have the potential to become a skin whitening product.

Arsenic levels in cutaneous appendicular organs are correlated with digitally evaluated hyperpigmented skin of the forehead but not the sole in Bangladesh residents

There has been no report showing the effect of arsenic level on digitized skin pigmentation level, a typical diagnostic marker for arsenicosis. Correlations among history of drinking well water, arsenic levels in hair and toenails, and digitalized skin pigmentation levels (L*-value) in sunlight-exposed (forehead) and unexposed (sole) skin areas digitally evaluated by using a reflectance spectrophotometer were examined in 150 residents of Bangladesh. Univariate analysis showed that arsenic levels in hair and toenails of subjects with a history of drinking well water were 10.6-fold and 7.1-fold higher, respectively, than those in subjects without a history of drinking well water. The mean L*-value of foreheads, but not that of soles, in subjects with a history of drinking well water was 1.15-fold lower (more pigmented) than that in subjects without a history of drinking well water. Significant correlations were found between duration of drinking well water and arsenic concentrations in hair (r=0.63; P<0.01) and toenails (r=0.60; P<0.01). Multivariate analysis showed that the arsenic levels in hair and toenails and the duration of drinking well water were strongly correlated with the digitized pigmented level of the forehead but not that of the sole. An increase in the duration of drinking well water may increase hyperpigmentation in the forehead, but not that in the sole, through an increased arsenic level in the human body as shown in cutaneous appendicular organs (hair and toenails).

Isolation of proanthocyanidins from red wine, and their inhibitory effects on melanin synthesis in vitro

The red wines made from Vitis vinifera were identified as skin-whitening effectors by using in vitro assays. OPCs in the wine were evaluated for tyrosinase activity and melanogenesis. Strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity was observed in fractions with high oligomeric proanthocyanidin (OPC) content. Among OPC dimers, a strong inhibitory effect on tyrosinase was observed with OPCs which contain (+)-catechin as an upper unit. Melanogenesis inhibitory effect was observed with OPCs which have (-)-epicatechin as upper units. Also, OPC trimers, upper and middle units joined with 4 → 8 bonds, showed stronger effects compared to trimers with 4 → 6 linkages. Interestingly, (-)-epicatechin-(4β → 8)-(-)-epicatechin 3-O-gallate, which is a unique component of grapes has potent inhibitory effects on both tyrosinase and melanogenesis. Our data provide structural information about such active compounds. These results suggest that red wines containing OPC, have high melanogenesis inhibitory effect and are supposed to have skin-whitening effect.

Melaleuca quinquenervia essential oil inhibits α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced melanin production and oxidative stress in B16 melanoma cells

BACKGROUND

Essential oils are odorous, volatile products of plant secondary metabolism, which are found in many leaves and stems. They show important biological activities, which account for the development of aromatherapy used in complementary and alternative medicine. The essential oil extracted from Melaleuca quinquenervia (Cav.) S.T. Blake (paperbark) (MQ-EO) has various functional properties.

PURPOSE

The aim of this study is to investigate the chemical composition of MQ-EO by using gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) and evaluate its tyrosinase inhibitory activity.

METHODS

Gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS)-based metabolomics was used to identify 18 components in MQ-EO. The main components identified were 1,8-cineole (21.60%), α-pinene (15.93%), viridiflorol (14.55%), and α-terpineol (13.73%). B16 melanoma cells were treated with α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH) in the presence of various concentrations of MQ-EO or its major compounds. Cell viability was accessed by MTT assay and cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content were determined by using spectrophotographic methods. The antioxidant mechanism of MQ-EO in α-MSH stimulated B16 cells was also investigated.

RESULTS

In α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated murine B16 melanoma cells, MQ-EO, 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, and α-terpineol significantly reduced melanin content and tyrosinase activity. Moreover, MQ-EO, 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, and α-terpineol decreased malondialdehyde (MDA) levels. In addition, restored glutathione (GSH) levels, glutathione peroxidase (GPx), superoxide dismutase (SOD), and catalase activities were increased in α-MSH-stimulated B16 cells. MQ-EO not only decreased apoptosis but also reduced DNA damage in α-MSH stimulated B16 cells. These results showed that MQ-EO and its main components, 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, and α-terpineol, possessed potent anti-tyrosinase and anti-melanogenic activities besides the antioxidant properties.

CONCLUSIONS

The active functional components of MQ-EO were found to be 1,8-cineole, α-pinene, and α-terpineol. Consequently, the results of present study suggest that MQ-EO is non-cytotoxic and can be used as a skin-whitening agent, both medically and cosmetically.

Chilean berry Ugni molinae Turcz. fruit and leaves extracts with interesting antioxidant, antimicrobial and tyrosinase inhibitory properties

The knowledge of the biological properties of fruits and leaves of murta (Ugni molinae Turcz.) has been owned by native Chilean culture. The present study investigated the phenolic content, the antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase activities of different murta fruit and leaves extracts to approach their uses on future food, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. Extractions of murta fruit and leaves were carried out under water, ethanol and ethanol 50%. Phenolic content of these extracts was measured through Folin Ciocalteu test and the antioxidant power by four different antioxidant systems (ORAC, FRAP, DPPH and TEAC assays) owing to elucidate the main mechanism of antioxidant. Some flavonoids, such as rutin, isoquercitrin and quercitrin hydrate were identified and quantified through HPLC analysis. Antimicrobial activity was determined measuring minimum inhibition concentration (MIC) and minimum bactericidal concentration (MBC) values against Escherichia coli and Listeria monocytogenes, and the effect of these extracts on L. monocytogenes was confirmed by flow cytometry. Highest contents of polyphenol compounds were obtained in hydroalcoholic extracts (28±1mggallicacid/g dry fruit, and 128±6mggallicacid/g dry leaves). The same trend was found for the values of biological properties: hydroalcoholic extracts showed the strongest activities. Leaves presented higher antioxidant, antimicrobial and anti-tyrosinase properties than murta fruit. Highest antioxidant activity values according to ORAC, FRAP, TEAC and DPPH were 80±8mgTrolox/g, 70±2mgTrolox/g, 87±8mgTrolox/g and 110±12mgTrolox/g, respectively, for murta fruit samples, and 280±10mgTrolox/g, 192±4mgTrolox/g, 286±13mgTrolox/g and 361±13mgTrolox/g, respectively, for murta leaves. These activities were confirmed by HPLC analysis that revealed highest presence of analyzed compounds on leaves hydroalcoholic extract. Regarding to antimicrobial analysis, hydroalcoholic leaves extract presented the highest activity presenting the lowest MIC value for L. monocytogenes (0.07mg/mL). This extract also performed the highest anti-tyrosinase activity (CE₅₀ values of 1.6±0.3 (g/L) and 8.9±1.2 (g/L) for leaves and fruit, respectively).

Protective effects of grape stem extract against UVB-induced damage in C57BL mice skin

Humans have become exposed to another form of a trait which is ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation reaching the earth's surface. This has become a major source of oxidative stress that ultimately leads to inflammation, DNA damage, photoaging and pigmentation disorders etc. Although several studies have shown the photo-protective role of different grape parts like the fruits and seeds, little or no data demonstrating the in vivo photo-protective role of grape stem, which is the most discarded part of the grape are available. We evaluated the protective influence of grape stem extract against UVB-induced oxidative damage in C57BL mice characterized by epidermal hyperplasia, pigmentation, collagen degradation and inflammation. Grape stem extract was administered topically 1week before UVB irradiation (120mJ/cm²) and continued until the termination of the experiment. A group of non-irradiated mice and a group of irradiated mice topically administered with propylene were used as a negative and positive control. Epidermal thickness, pigmentation, erythema, mast cell and neutrophil infiltration, collagen degradation and COX-2, Nrf2, and HO-1 expressions were evaluated. Grape stem extract markedly recovered skin damage induced by the UVB radiation through the prevention of epidermal hyperplasia, pigmentation, erythema, mast cell and neutrophil infiltrations, collagen degradation and COX-2, Nrf2, and HO-1 expressions. Our study demonstrated for the first time in C57BL mice that grape stem extract reduces UVB-induced oxidative damage and hence can play a protective role in skin photo-damage.

Inhibitory effects of different fractions of Nepeta satureioides on melanin synthesis through reducing oxidative stress

Nepeta satureioides Boiss. has been used in traditional medicine of eastern countries and is famous for its medicinal properties. The aim of this study was to evaluate the effect of methanol (MeOH), n-hexane and dichloromethane (CH₂Cl₂) fractions of the extract on melanin synthesis and oxidative stress in B16F10 melanoma cell line. The B16F10 cell line viability after treatment with increasing concentrations of different fractions of the plant (5-60 μg/mL) was measured using MTT assay. The inhibitory effect on synthesis of melanin, mushroom tyrosinase activity, cellular tyrosinase and oxidative stress were determined by the colorimetric and fluorometric methods. The data showed that at concentrations below 60 μg/mL, fractions did not show significant toxicity on melanoma cells. The amount of melanin synthesis by MeOH and CH₂Cl₂ fractions and mushroom tyrosinase activity by the MeOH fraction declined in B16F10 cells. In addition to the capacity of MeOH, n-hexane and CH₂Cl₂ fractions in decreasing the amount of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in melanoma cells, all fractions revealed remarkable antioxidant activity. The melanogenesis inhibitory and antioxidant effects of N. satureioides on B16F10 cells may suggest this plant as a new pharmaceutical agent in reducing skin pigment and skin aging in cosmetic industry.

Clinical effects of an oral supplement rich in antioxidants on skin radiance in women

Background

Environmental factors impact the skin aging resulting in decrease of skin radiance. Nutrition and particularly antioxidants could help to fight against skin degradation.

Objective

The aim of this study was to evaluate the effects of an oral supplement rich in specific antioxidants, SkinAx^2TM, on the improvement of the skin radiance in women.

Methods

The open-label clinical study enrolled 35 women, aged 40–70, with facial dull complexion. Subjects were supplemented orally with a daily dosage of 150 mg of an antioxidant-rich formulation containing superoxide dismutase-rich melon concentrate, grape seed extract rich in monomers of flavanols, vitamin C, and zinc for 8 weeks. Each subject served as her own control. The C.L.B.T.^™ test has been used to evaluate facial skin coloring (C), luminosity (L), brightness (B), and transparency (T) involved in skin radiance. Facial skin imperfections have been assessed by clinical assessment. Firmness has been evaluated by clinical assessment and cutometer measurement. Finally, an auto-questionnaire has been carried out in order to evaluate the satisfaction of the subjects concerning different parameters involved in skin radiance and the global efficacy of the supplement.

Results

Skin “red pink” and “olive” colors were significantly improved after supplementation (P<0.0001). Luminosity was increased by 25.9% (P<0.0001) whereas brightness and transparency were not affected by the supplementation. Facial skin imperfections were significantly reduced after the antioxidant-rich formulation intake (global reduction: −18.0%; P<0.0001). Indeed, dark circles, redness, and spots significantly diminished after oral treatment. Firmness and elasticity have been shown to be improved. Subjects were globally satisfied by the product (82.4%) and have found improvements on their facial skin. Furthermore, 64.7% reported to look better at the end of the supplementation.

Conclusion

The oral supplement containing the antioxidant-rich formulation was found to improve skin radiance by reducing skin coloring, increasing face luminosity, reducing imperfections, and improving skin firmness in women with dull complexion.

Composition of Asarum heterotropoides var. mandshuricum radix oil from different extraction methods and activities against human body odor-producing bacteria

In this study, oils from Asarum heterotropoides were extracted by traditional solvent extraction and supercritical CO₂ (SC-CO₂) extraction methods and their antioxidant activities along with antimicrobial and inhibitory activities against five human body odor-producing bacteria (Staphylococcus epidermidis, Propionibacterium freudenreichii, Micrococcus luteus, Corynebacterium jeikeium, and Corynebacterium xerosis) were evaluated. The oil was found to contain 15 components, among which the most abundant component was methyl eugenol (37.6%), which was identified at every condition studied in different extraction methods. The oil extracted with n-hexane and ethanol mixture exhibited a strong antioxidant activity (92% ± 2%) and the highest ABTS and 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl scavenging activities (89% ± 0.2%). The highest amounts of total phenolic content and total flavonoid content were 23.1 ± 0.4 mg/g and 4.9 ± 0.1 mg/g, respectively, in the traditional method. In the SC-CO₂ method performed at 200 bar/50°C using ethanol as an entrainer, the highest inhibition zone was recorded against all the aforementioned bacteria. In particular, strong antibacterial activity (38 ± 2 mm) was found against M. luteus. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) for the oil against bacteria ranged from 10.1 ± 0.1 μg/mL to 46 ± 2 μg/mL. The lowest MIC was found against M. luteus. Methyl eugenol was found to be one of the major compounds working against human body odor-producing bacteria.

Thymus vulgaris alleviates UVB irradiation induced skin damage via inhibition of MAPK/AP-1 and activation of Nrf2-ARE antioxidant system

Solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation-induced reactive oxidative species is mainly responsible for the development of photoageing. Rosmarinic acid was one of the main bioactive components detected in Thymus vulgaris (TV) we extracted. In this study, UVB-induced skin damages have been shown to be ameliorated by treatment with TV in hairless mice (HR-1) skin, demonstrated by decreased matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) and increased collagen production. However, the underlying molecular mechanism on which TV acted was unclear. We examined the photoprotective effects of TV against UVB and elucidated the molecular mechanism in normal human dermal fibroblasts. Thymus vulgaris remarkably prevented the UVB-induced reactive oxygen species and lactate dehydrogenase. Dose-dependent increase in glutathione, NAD(P)H: quinone oxidoreductase1 and heme oxygenase-1, by TV was confirmed by increased nuclear accumulation of Nrf2. Furthermore, 5-Methoxyindole-2-carboxylic acid was introduced as a specific inhibitor of dihydrolipoyl dehydrogenase (DLD). We demonstrated that Nrf2 expression was regulated by DLD, which was a tricarboxylic acid cycle-associated protein that decreased after UVB exposure. Besides, TV significantly diminished UVB induced phosphorylation of mitogen activated protein kinases pathway, containing extracellular signal-regulated kinase, Jun N-terminal kinase and p38, which consequently reduced phosphorylated c-fos and c-jun. Our results suggest that TV is a potential botanical agent for use against UV radiation-induced oxidative stress mediated skin damages.

Inhibition of melanogenesis by Gaillardia aristata flower extract

BACKGROUND

The purpose of the study was to determine the anti-melanogenic and anti-oxidant properties of Gaillardia aristata flower extract (GAE).

METHODS

Melanogenesis inhibition by GAE was investigated in cultivated cells and in a human skin model. In cultivated cells, the melanogenesis regulatory effect of GAE was evaluated using melanin content, intracellular tyrosinase activity and anti-oxidant characteristics. In addition, the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins was determined by western blot assay and real-time PCR.

RESULTS

GAE reduced the amount of melanin in B16F10 and normal human epidermal melanocyte cells and suppressed intracellular tyrosinase activity in a dose-dependent pattern. Also, GAE significantly decreased the expression of melanogenesis-related proteins (microphthalmia associated transcription factor, tyrosinase, tyrosinase-related protein-1, and dopachrome tautomerase). Real-time PCR results revealed a down-regulation of the mRNAs of these proteins. GAE possessed anti-oxidant characteristics as free radical-scavenging capacity and reducing power. In the three-dimensional human skin model, GAE applied to hyperpigmented skin significantly increased the degree of skin lightening within 2 weeks of treatment. The safety of GAE on human skin was confirmed.

CONCLUSIONS

These results indicate the potential of GAE for use in suppressing skin pigmentation. We proposed GAE as a new candidate of anti-melanogenic and antioxidant agents that could be used for cosmetic skin care products.

Inhibitory Effect of Dried Pomegranate Concentration Powder on Melanogenesis in B16F10 Melanoma Cells; Involvement of p38 and PKA Signaling Pathways

Plants rich in antioxidant substances may be useful for preventing skin aging. Pomegranates, containing flavonoids and other polyphenolic compounds, are widely consumed due to their beneficial properties. We examined the underlying mechanisms of dried pomegranate concentrate powder (PCP) on melanin synthesis in B16F10 melanoma cells. The antioxidant effects of PCP were determined by measuring free radical scavenging capacity and transcript levels of antioxidant enzymes. To explore the inhibitory effects of PCP on melanin synthesis, we measured tyrosinase activity and melanin content in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-stimulated B16F10 cells. In addition, the levels of tyrosinase-related protein-1 (TRP-1), TRP-2, tyrosinase, and microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF) expression were determined by Western blotting. Changes in the phosphorylation status of protein kinase A (PKA), cAMP response element-binding protein (CREB), mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs), phosphatidylinositol 3-kinase (PI3K), serine/threonine kinase Akt, and glycogen kinase 3β (GSK3β) were also examined. The free radical scavenging activity of PCP increased in a dose-dependent manner. In PCP-treated B16F10 cells, transcript levels of glutathione peroxidase-1 (GPx-1) were increased compared with α-MSH-stimulated cells. In addition, PCP led to the down-regulation of phospho-p38, phospho-PKA, phospho-CREB, phospho-GSK3β, MITF, and TRP-1 compared with α-MSH-stimulated B16F10 cells. We believe this effect may be associated with PCP activity, which leads to the inhibition of melanin production and tyrosinase activity. These results suggest that PCP decreases tyrosinase activity and melanin production via inactivation of the p38 and PKA signaling pathways, and subsequently decreases phosphorylation of CREB, MITF, and melanogenic enzymes. These observations provided new insights on the molecular mechanisms of the skin-whitening property of PCP.

Anti-Oxidant, Anti-Aging, and Anti-Melanogenic Properties of the Essential Oils from Two Varieties of Alpinia zerumbet

Here, we investigated the anti-oxidant and anti-aging effects of essential oils (EOs) from the leaves of Alpinia zerumbet (tairin and shima) in vitro and anti-melanogenic effects in B16F10 melanoma cells. The anti-oxidant activities were performed with 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH); 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt (ABTS); nitric oxide; singlet oxygen; hydroxyl radical scavenging; and xanthine oxidase. The inhibitory activities against collagenase, elastase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase were employed for anti-aging. The anti-melanogenic was assessed in B16F10 melanoma cells by melanin synthesis and intracellular tyrosinase inhibitory activity. The volatile chemical composition of the essential oil was analyzed with gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The EO was a complex mixture mainly consisting of monoterpenes and sesquiterpenes. The results revealed that tairin and shima EOs showed strong anti-oxidant activities against DPPH and nitric oxide, hydroxyl radical scavenging activity, and xanthine oxidase inhibition. Compared to shima EO; tairin EO exhibited strong anti-aging activity by inhibiting collagenase, tyrosinase, hyaluronidase, and elastase (IC50 = 11 ± 0.1; 25 ± 1.2; 83 ± 1.6; and 213 ± 2 μg/mL, respectively). Both EOs inhibited intracellular tyrosinase activity; thus, reducing melanin synthesis. These results suggest that tairin EO has better anti-oxidant/anti-aging activity than shima EO, but both are equally anti-melanogenic.

Safety assessment of Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients as used in cosmetics

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) assessed the safety of 24 Vitis vinifera (grape)-derived ingredients and found them safe in the present practices of use and concentration in cosmetics. These ingredients function in cosmetics mostly as skin-conditioning agents, but some function as antioxidants, flavoring agents, and/or colorants. The Panel reviewed the available animal and clinical data to determine the safety of these ingredients. Additionally, some constituents of grapes have been assessed previously for safety as cosmetic ingredients by the Panel, and others are compounds that have been discussed in previous Panel safety assessments.