Main Benefits and Applicability of Plant Extracts in Skin Care Products

Aromatic plants as cosmeceuticals: benefits and applications for skin health

MAIN CONCLUSION

This review highlights the potential of aromatic plants as natural antioxidants in cosmeceuticals to combat skin aging and promote health and rejuvenation. Aromatic plant extracts, essential oils, or their phytoconstituents have a long history of use in skincare, dating back centuries. Currently, these plant-based sources are extensively researched and utilized in the cosmeceutical industry to formulate products that enhance skin health and promote a youthful appearance. These plants' diverse bioactivities and sensory properties make them ideal ingredients for developing anti-aging agents recommended for maintaining healthy skin through self-care routines, offering a natural alternative to synthetic products. Reactive oxygen species (ROS) accumulation in the dermis, attributed to intrinsic and extrinsic aging factors, particularly prolonged sun exposure, is identified as the primary cause of skin aging. Plant extracts enriched with antioxidant compounds including flavonoids, phenolics, tannins, stilbenes, terpenes, and steroids, are fundamental to counteract ROS-induced oxidative stress. Noteworthy effects observed from the use of these natural sources include photoprotective, senolytic, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, and anti-tyrosinase activities, encompassing benefits like photoprotection, wound healing, skin whitening, anti-pigmentation, tissue regeneration, among others. This review highlights several globally distributed aromatic plant species renowned for their benefits for skin, including Foeniculum vulgare Mill. (Apiaceae), Calendula officinalis L. and Matricaria chamomilla L. (Asteraceae), Thymus vulgaris L. (Lamiaceae), Litsea cubeba (Lour.) Pers. (Lauraceae), Althaea officinalis L. (Malvaceae), Malaleuca alternifolia (Maiden y Betche) Cheel (Myrtaceae), Cymbopogon citratus (DC.) Stapf (Poaceae), Rubus idaeus L. (Rosaceae), and Citrus sinensis L. Osbeck (Rutaceae), emphasizing their potential in skincare formulations and their role in promoting health and rejuvenation.

Valorization of Strawberry Tree Berries and Beeswax from Montesinho Natural Park for Cosmetic Industry-A Case Study Formulation

Consumers are increasingly concerned about cosmetic ingredients' origin, looking more than ever to sustainable and greener formulations. The Natural Park of Montesinho, located in Portugal, is characterized by an enormous fauna and flora diversity. Among them, beeswax and strawberry trees (Arbutus unedo) have attracted the cosmetic researchers' interest due to their bioactive compounds' richness, particularly fatty acids and phenolic compounds. The main goal of this study was to develop an innovative cosmetic product with antioxidant properties composed by both matrices. Briefly, samples were obtained in the Natural Park of Montesinho in October 2022. Beeswax was analysed for lipid profile and contaminants, while extracts were obtained from fruits by ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE) using water as a solvent. The effect of extraction time (15-90 min) was studied on the total phenolic content (TPC), in vitro antioxidant/antiradical activity, and reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging capacity. The beeswax lipid profile presented a high incidence of palmitic, oleic, and linoleic acids. The extract obtained at 60 min presented the highest TPC (30.27 mg GAE/g dw) and antioxidant/antiradical activities (ABTS = 30.36 mg AAE/g dw; DPPH = 43.83 mg TE/g dw; FRAP = 415.61 µmol FSE/g dw). An IC50 of 19.78 µg/mL was achieved for the hypochlorous acid, while for superoxide radical and peroxyl radical the IC50 were, respectively, 90.51 µg/mL and 0.19 µmol TE/mg dw. The phytochemical profile revealed a high content of gallic acid, and catechin and its derivatives. The hydrophilic cream developed revealed ideal technological parameters, particularly its stability.

Towards the Use of Lichens as a Source of Bioactive Substances for Topical Applications

The increasing incidence of dermatological diseases prompts the search for new natural methods of treatments, and lichens, with their special symbiotic structure, are a little-known and promising source of biologically active substances. Seven lichen species, Cladonia unicialis (L.) Weber ex F.H. Wigg. (Cladoniaceae), Evernia prunastri (L.) Ach. (Parmeliaceae), Hypogymnia physodes (L.) Nyl. (Parmaliaceae), Parmelia sulcata (Taylor) (Parmeliaceae), Physcia adscendens (Fr.) H. Olivier (Physciaceae), Pseudoevernia furfuracea (L.) Zopf (Parmeliaceae), and Xanthoria parietina (L.) Th. Fr. (Teloschistaceae), were used in our experiment. We identified different metabolites in the acetone extracts of all the lichen species. Based on the high-performance liquid chromatography analysis, the content of lichen substances in the extracts was evaluated. The impact of the individual lichen-specific reference substances, compared to the lichen extracts, on the viability of keratinocytes (HaCaT cell line) and fibroblasts (BJ cell line) and on the activity of selected skin-related enzymes was investigated. Our results revealed that only emodin anthrone at a concentration of 200 mg/L was cytotoxic to keratinocytes and fibroblasts in both cell viability assays. In turn, the C. uncialis extract was only cytotoxic to keratinocytes when used at the same concentration. The other tested treatments showed a positive effect on cell viability and no cytotoxicity or indeterminate cytotoxicity (shown in only one of the tests). Elastase and collagenase activities were inhibited by most of the lichen extracts. In turn, the individual lichen compounds (with the exception of evernic acid) generally had an undesirable stimulatory effect on hyaluronidase and collagenase activity. In addition, almost all the tested compounds and extracts showed anti-inflammatory activity. This suggests that some lichen compounds hold promise as potential ingredients in dermatological and skincare products, but their safety and efficacy require further study. The high cytotoxicity of emodin anthrone highlights its potential use in the treatment of hyperproliferative skin diseases such as psoriasis.

Overview of Nanocosmetics with Emphasis on those Incorporating Natural Extracts

The cosmetic industry is rapidly rising worldwide. To overcome certain deficiencies of conventional cosmetics, nanomaterials have been introduced to formulations of nails, lips, hair, and skin for treating/alleviating hyperpigmentation, hair loss, acne, dandruff, wrinkles, photoaging, etc. Innovative nanocarrier materials applied in the cosmetic sector for carrying the active ingredients include niosomes, fullerenes, liposomes, carbon nanotubes, and nanoemulsions. These exhibit several advantages, such as elevated stability, augmented skin penetration, specific site targeting, and sustained release of active contents. Nevertheless, continuous exposure to nanomaterials in cosmetics may pose some health hazards. This review features the different new nanocarriers applied for delivering cosmetics, their positive impacts and shortcomings, currently marketed nanocosmetic formulations, and their possible toxic effects. The role of natural ingredients, including vegetable oils, seed oils, essential oils, fats, and plant extracts, in the formulation of nanocosmetics is also reviewed. This review also discusses the current trend of green cosmetics and cosmetic regulations in selected countries.

Vitis vinifera L. Leaf Extract, a Microbiota Green Ally against Infectious and Inflammatory Skin and Scalp Diseases: An In-Depth Update

The skin microbiota, with its millions of bacteria, fungi, and viruses, plays a key role in balancing the health of the skin and scalp. Its continuous exposure to potentially harmful stressors can lead to abnormalities such as local dysbiosis, altered barrier function, pathobiont overabundance, and infections often sustained by multidrug-resistant bacteria. These factors contribute to skin impairment, deregulation of immune response, and chronic inflammation, with local and systemic consequences. In this scenario, according to the needs of the bio-circular-green economy model, novel harmless strategies, both for regulating the diverse epidermal infectious and inflammatory processes and for preserving or restoring the host skin eubiosis and barrier selectivity, are requested. Vitis vinifera L. leaves and their derived extracts are rich in plant secondary metabolites, such as polyphenols, with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and immunomodulatory properties that can be further exploited through microbe-driven fermentation processes. On this premise, this literature review aims to provide an informative summary of the most updated evidence on their interactions with skin commensals and pathogens and on their ability to manage inflammatory conditions and restore microbial biodiversity. The emerging research showcases the potential novel beneficial ingredients for addressing various skincare concerns and advancing the cosmeceutics field as well.

Novel Insights into Phaseolus vulgaris L. Sprouts: Phytochemical Analysis and Anti-Aging Properties

Skin aging is an inevitable and intricate process instigated, among others, by oxidative stress. The search for natural sources that inhibit this mechanism is a promising approach to preventing skin aging. The purpose of our study was to evaluate the composition of phenolic compounds in the micellar extract of Phaseolus vulgaris sprouts. The results of a liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) analysis revealed the presence of thirty-two constituents, including phenolic acids, flavanols, flavan-3-ols, flavanones, isoflavones, and other compounds. Subsequently, the extract was assessed for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase, anti-tyrosinase, and cytotoxic properties, as well as for the evaluation of collagen synthesis. It was demonstrated that micellar extract from common bean sprouts has strong anti-aging properties. The performed WST-8 (a water-soluble tetrazolium salt) assay revealed that selected concentrations of extract significantly increased proliferation of human dermal fibroblasts compared to the control cells in a dose-dependent manner. A similar tendency was observed with respect to collagen synthesis. Our results suggest that micellar extract from Phaseolus vulgaris sprouts can be considered a promising anti-aging compound for applications in cosmetic formulations.

The Potential of Hemp Extracts to Modify the Course of Oxidative-Stress Related Conditions

The leaves of industrial hemp, which have long been considered as a waste product, have been proven to contain numerous compounds that possess potential biological activity. One of the most interesting groups of compounds present are polyphenolic compounds, which, due to their specific structure, have a pronounced antioxidant and antihyperglycemic potential. This study aimed to detect biological activity, including antioxidant and antihyperglycemic potential, of water and water-alcoholic extracts of five commercially available hemp teas, followed by phytochemical profiling. Hemp aqueous and ethanolic extracts demonstrate potent antioxidant properties. Ethanol extracts are better scavengers of DPPH• and OH•, while aqueous extracts neutralize NO• better. Both types of extracts exhibit antioxidant potential in the catalase test and moderate XOD inhibition. Furthermore, aqueous extracts are potent α-amylase inhibitors, while ethanolic extracts demonstrate stronger anti-α-glucosidase activity, suggesting therapeutic potential for chronic diseases like insulin resistance or diabetes. Further detailed chemical characterization and in vivo studies are needed to validate these findings.

Cubeb (Piper cubeba L.): nutritional value, phytochemical profiling and dermacosmeceutical properties

Introduction

Cubeb, Piper cubeba L., has been used for centuries in traditional medicine and culinary practices, with a wide range of biological and pharmacological activities.

Objective

Herein, we determined the phytochemical profile, mineral, fatty acids, and amino acid contents of P. cubeba berries and assessed the dermacosmeceutical properties of their water extract and essential oil (EO). These included assessing their antioxidant and antibacterial activities as well as their in vitro inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. In addition, molecular docking and molecular dynamics studies were performed on the major identified compounds of the EO.

Results and discussion

A total of forty-three compounds belonging to organic acids, phenolic acids and flavonoids were found in the water extract, while 36 volatile compounds were identified in the EO with Z-isoeugenol, dihydroeugenol, β-pinene, E-caryophyllene, and 1,8-cineole as major constituents. The berries were found to be rich in sodium and iron, have moderate zinc content along with low contents of total nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Amino acid analysis revealed a considerable concentration of isoleucine and phenylalanine, whereas 11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid and linoleic acid were identified as the major fatty acids. In the DPPH and FRAP assays, the water extract elicited considerable antioxidant activity compared to the reference compounds. Enzyme inhibitory assays revealed that the EO had a potential to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase enzymes with IC50 values of 340.56 and 86.04 μg/mL, respectively. The water extract and EO completely inhibited the bacterial growth at MIC of 50 mg/mL and 20%, respectively. At sub-MIC concentrations, the extract and the EO substantially reduced the biofilm formation by up to 26.63 and 77.77%, respectively, as well as the swimming and swarming motilities in a dose-dependent manner. Molecular docking and molecular dynamics showed that the five main components of P. cubeba EO could be the major contributors to the elastase and tyrosinase inhibitory effect.

Conclusion

This study emphasizes the promising potential of P. cubeba as a valuable source of natural compounds that can be utilized for the development of innovative pharmaceuticals, dietary supplements, and dermacosmeceutical agents.

Study on the Skincare Effects of Red Rice Fermented by Aspergillus oryzae In Vitro

Red rice, a variety of pigmented grain, serves dual purposes as both a food and medicinal resource. In recent years, we have witnessed an increasing interest in the dermatological benefits of fermented rice extracts, particularly their whitening and hydrating effects. However, data on the skincare advantages derived from fermenting red rice with Aspergillus oryzae remain sparse. This study utilized red rice as a substrate for fermentation by Aspergillus oryzae, producing a substance known as red rice Aspergillus oryzae fermentation (RRFA). We conducted a preliminary analysis of RRFA's composition followed by an evaluation of its skincare potential through various in vitro tests. Our objective was to develop a safe and highly effective skincare component for potential cosmetic applications. RRFA's constituents were assessed using high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), Kjeldahl nitrogen determination, the phenol-sulfuric acid method, and enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay (ELISA). We employed human dermal fibroblasts (FB) to assess RRFA's anti-aging and antioxidative properties, immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) and 3D epidermal models to examine its moisturizing and reparative capabilities, and human primary melanocytes (MCs) to study its effects on skin lightening. Our findings revealed that RRFA encompasses several bioactive compounds beneficial for skin health. RRFA can significantly promote the proliferation of FB cells. And it markedly enhances the mRNA expression of ECM-related anti-aging genes and reduces reactive oxygen species production. Furthermore, RRFA significantly boosts the expression of Aquaporin 3 (AQP3), Filaggrin (FLG), and Hyaluronan Synthase 1 (HAS1) mRNA, alongside elevating moisture levels in a 3D epidermal model. Increases were also observed in the mRNA expression of Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Involucrin (IVL), and Zonula Occludens-1 (ZO-1) in keratinocytes. Additionally, RRFA demonstrated an inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. Collectively, RRFA contains diverse ingredients which are beneficial for skin health and showcases multifaceted skincare effects in terms of anti-aging, antioxidant, moisturizing, repairing, and whitening capabilities in vitro, highlighting its potential for future cosmetic applications.

Interactions between Bacillus thuringiensis and selected plant extracts for sustainable management of Phthorimaea absoluta

Phthorimaea absoluta is a global constraint to tomato production and can cause up to 100% yield loss. Farmers heavily rely on synthetic pesticides to manage this pest. However, these pesticides are detrimental to human, animal, and environmental health. Therefore, exploring eco-friendly, sustainable Integrated Pest Management approaches, including biopesticides as potential alternatives, is of paramount importance. In this context, the present study (i) evaluated the efficacy of 10 Bacillus thuringiensis isolates, neem, garlic, and fenugreek; (ii) assessed the interactions between the most potent plant extracts and B. thuringiensis isolates, and (iii) evaluated the gut microbial diversity due to the treatments for the development of novel formulations against P. absoluta. Neem recorded the highest mortality of 93.79 ± 3.12% with an LT50 value of 1.21 ± 0.24 days, Bt HD263 induced 91.3 ± 3.68% mortality with LT50 of 2.63 ± 0.11 days, compared to both Bt 43 and fenugreek that caused < 50% mortality. Larval mortality was further enhanced to 99 ± 1.04% when Bt HD263 and neem were combined. Furthermore, the microbiome analyses showed that Klebsiella, Escherichia and Enterobacter had the highest abundance in all treatments with Klebsiella being the most abundant. In addition, a shift in the abundance of the bacterial genera due to the treatments was observed. Our findings showed that neem, garlic, and Bt HD263 could effectively control P. absoluta and be integrated into IPM programs after validation by field efficacy trials.

Phytonano silver for cosmetic formulation- synthesis, characterization, and assessment of antimicrobial and antityrosinase potential

Novel formulations of silver nanoparticles remain exciting if it is applicable for cosmetic purposes. This study proposes a value-added brand-new nanomaterial for improving skin complexion by inhibiting melanin development. This work aims to develop cost effective, efficient, natural silver nanoparticles phytomediated by aqueous extract of leaf sheath scales of Cocos nucifera (Cn-AgNPs) having potential as tyrosinase inhibitors hindering melanin synthesis. The formation of Cn-AgNPs was assessed spectrophotometrically and confirmed by the sharp SPR spectrum at 425 nm. The chemical composition profiling was characterized by X-ray diffraction (XRD) and Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy. The morphology was confirmed by Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscopy (FESEM) and the thermal stability was assessed by Thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). Pharmacological application studies supported the materialization of Cn-AgNPs with significant antityrosinase potential and considerably improved antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Cn-AgNPs showed potential antibacterial effects against gram-positive and negative strains, including prominent infectious agents of the skin. Antioxidant capacity was confirmed with an IC50 of 57.8 μg/mL by DPPH radical scavenging assay. Furthermore, in vitro melanin content determination was performed using SK-MEL cells. Cell line studies proved that Cn-AgNPs decrease the melanin content of cells. The IC50 value obtained was 84.82 μg/mL. Hence Cn-AgNPs is proposed to be acting as a whitening agent through lessening cellular melanin content and as a significant inhibitor of tyrosinase activity. The antioxidant properties and antibacterial effects can contribute to skin rejuvenation and can prevent skin infections as well. This evidence proposes the development of a new nanostructured pharmaceutical and cosmetic formulation from Cocos nucifera leaf sheath scales.

Effects on keratinocytes of the traditional combination of herb extract (Royal Oji Complex) implicated the improvement of young children's skin moisture and barrier

BACKGROUND

Natural products are often friendly and can be used on children's skin after systematic and careful research. Therefore, in this study, the Royal Oji Complex (ROC), a product with natural ingredients, was used to study their effectiveness on keratinocytes taken from the skin of children from 0 to 3 years old.

METHOD

Normal human epidermal keratinocytes and tissue-isolated keratinocytes (TIKC) from young donors were treated with three different concentrations of ROC: 0.1, 1, and 10 ppm. The mRNA expression of the epidermal barrier's essential genes, such as hyaluronic acid synthase 3 (Has3), involucrin (IVL), loricrin (LOR), and claudin-1 (CLD1) was investigated using qRT-PCR. Ceramide content was measured by ELISA, with retinoic acid (R.A.) and amarogentin (AMA) serving as positive controls.

RESULTS

ROC significantly elevated HAS3 gene expression in HEKn cells, especially at 10 ppm, indicating potential advantages for skin hydration in young infants. IVL increased at first but decreased as ROC concentrations increased. LOR was upregulated at lower ROC concentrations but reduced at higher doses. CLD1 gene expression increased considerably in HEKn but reduced with increasing ROC doses. Ceramide concentration increased somewhat but not significantly at 10 ppm.

CONCLUSION

ROC shows potential in altering keratinocyte gene expression, with unique responses in HEKn and TIKC from young donors. While changes in ceramide content were insignificant, these results help to comprehend ROC's multiple effects on young children's skin.

Essential oils extracted from nine different plants exhibit differential effects on skin antioxidation and elasticity

Essential oils derived from plants are major ingredients in the medical and cosmetic industry. Here, we evaluated nine types of plant essential oils to identify potential candidates with antioxidant and elasticity-enhancing properties. Seven essential oils showed at least 10% radical scavenging activity at the highest concentration. Essential oils extracted from Aster glehnii, Cinnamomum cassia, Citrus unshiu, Juniperus chinensis L., and Juniperus chinensis var. sargentii significantly enhanced fibroblast viability, and oils from Cit. unshiu, J. chinensis L., and J. chinensis var. sargentii significantly increased cell proliferation and migration. Expression of extracellular matrix proteins, including collagen 1, collagen 3, and elastin, were upregulated by J. chinensis L. and J. chinensis var. sargentii oil, which also significantly enhanced the contractile activity of skin cells in a three-dimensional gel contraction assay. The results suggest that J. chinensis L. and J. chinensis var. sargentii essential oils may be potential anti-wrinkling and anti-oxidative agents for future consideration of use in the medical and cosmetic industry.

Film-Forming, Moisturizing, and Sensory Properties of a Cosmetic Formulation Containing Tara Gum and Brazilian Berry Extracts

The development of cosmetic formulations with moisturizing and film-forming properties has been very important to help keep skin physiology and protection. In this context, this study aimed to develop a cosmetic formulation containing Tara gum and Brazilian berry extract and evaluate its physical-mechanical, film-forming, and sensory properties. A gel formulation was developed based on Tara gum added to Plinia cauliflora extract and was characterized by its spreadability profile and sensory properties. A clinical study was carried out with ten participants to evaluate the skin microrelief, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and skin morphological characteristics by reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) before and after 2 h of application of the formulations. The formulation with Brazilian berry significantly decreased the work of shear parameter, which can be correlated with improved spreadability in the sensory analysis. The clinical study showed that both formulations improved skin hydration and reduced the TEWL. The RCM imaging analysis showed the visible film on the skin surface, a decrease in the size of furrows, an increase in the reflectance of the interkeratinocytes, and reflectance of the stratum corneum for both formulations. These results were more pronounced for the formulation containing Brazilian berry. The Tara gum in the gel formulation promoted the formation and visualization of a polymeric net on the stratum corneum surface, demonstrated by the images obtained from RCM. However, the formulation added with the Brazilian berry extract improved the skin microrelief, honeycomb pattern of the epidermis, and skin hydration in deeper layers of the epidermis.

Skin healthcare protection with antioxidant and anti-melanogenesis activity of polysaccharide purification from Bletilla striata

In this study, we investigated the structural characterization and biological activities of Bletilla striata polysaccharides (BSPs) for their role as antioxidants and anti-melanogenesis agents in skin healthcare protection. Three neutral polysaccharides (BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3) with molecular weights of 269.121 kDa, 57.389 kDa, and 28.153 kDa were extracted and purified. Their structural characteristics were analyzed by ion chromatography, GC-MS, and 1D/2D NMR. The results showed that BSP-1, which constitutes the major part of BSPs, was composed of α-D-Glcp, β-D-Glcp, β-D-Manp, and 2-O-acetyl-β-D-Manp, with the branched-chain accompanied by β-D-Galp and α-D-Glcp. BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 can enhance the total antioxidant capacity of skin fibroblasts with non-toxicity. Meanwhile, BSP-1, BSP-2, and BSP-3 could significantly inhibit the proliferative activity of melanoma cells. Among them, BSP-1 and BSP-2 showed more significance in anti-melanogenesis, tyrosinase inhibition activity, and cell migration inhibition. BSPs have effective antioxidant capacity and anti-melanogenesis effects, which should be further emphasized and developed as skin protection components.

The Promising Role of Polyphenols in Skin Disorders

The biochemical characteristics of polyphenols contribute to their numerous advantageous impacts on human health. The existing research suggests that plant phenolics, whether consumed orally or applied directly to the skin, can be beneficial in alleviating symptoms and avoiding the development of many skin disorders. Phenolic compounds, which are both harmless and naturally present, exhibit significant potential in terms of counteracting the effects of skin damage, aging, diseases, wounds, and burns. Moreover, polyphenols play a preventive role and possess the ability to delay the progression of several skin disorders, ranging from small and discomforting to severe and potentially life-threatening ones. This article provides a concise overview of recent research on the potential therapeutic application of polyphenols for skin conditions. It specifically highlights studies that have investigated clinical trials and the use of polyphenol-based nanoformulations for the treatment of different skin ailments.

Oleogels for the Promotion of Healthy Skin Care Products: Synthesis and Characterization of Allantoin Containing Moringa-based Oleogel

BACKGROUND

Oleogelation is an efficient and emerging approach for obtaining biocompatible and biodegradable elastic semisolid crystals to be used in various cosmetic and pharmaceutical formulations. Recently, drug incorporation in oil structuring has been a promising strategy under consideration due to the effectiveness of this method. Plant oils have very beneficial characteristics for skin care and wound healing due to the presence of certain antioxidants.

METHODS

In this study, the oleogels of Moringa oleifera seed oil with natural polysaccharides, including pectin, chitosan, and xanthan gum, were prepared using the emulsion template method. Moringa oil was selected because it can hydrate and moisturize the skin and has great antioxidant activity. Also, the natural polysaccharides, i.e., pectin and chitosan, exhibited good gelling properties. Allantoin, which is a wound healer and eucalyptus leaf oil with antioxidant potential, was incorporated into the emulsion-based-oleogels to enhance the antioxidant and antimicrobial activity of the oleogels.

RESULTS

Allantoin and eucalyptus-loaded oleogels exhibited good antibacterial activity against E. coli. The FTIR spectra of moringa-based oleogels in the range between 3226-3422 cm-1 indicate the presence of hydrogen bonding in oleogels.

CONCLUSION

The antioxidant potential of allantoin and eucalyptus-containing oleogel was maximized, and an IC50 value of 0.9719 μM was found. Maximum release of allantoin from oleogel was observed in the first hour.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Study on the effect of blackcurrant extract - based preservative on model membranes and pathogenic bacteria

In this work the cosmetic preservative based on a Ribes Nigrum (blackcurrant) plant extract (PhytoCide Black Currant Powder abbr. BCE) was investigated to evaluate its antibacterial effect and to gain an insight into its mechanism of action. The influence of this commercially available formulation on model Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus lipid membranes was studied to analyze its interactions with membrane lipids at a molecular level. The mixed lipid monolayers and one component bacteria lipid films were used to investigate the effect of BCE on condensation and morphology of model systems and to study the ability of BCE components to penetrate into the lipid environment. The in vitro tests were also done on different bacteria species (E. coli, Enterococcus faecalis, S. aureus, Salmonella enterica, Pseudomonas aeruginosa) to compare antimicrobial potency of the studied formulation. As evidenced the in vitro studies BCE formulation exerts very similar antibacterial activity against E. coli and S. aureus. Moreover, based on the collected data it is impossible to indicate which bacteria: Gram-positive or Gram-negative are more susceptible to this formulation. Model membrane experiments evidenced that the studied preservative affects organization of both E. coli and S. aureus model system by decreasing their condensation and altering their morphology. BCE components are able to penetrate into the lipid systems. However, all these effects depend on the lipid composition and monolayer organization. The collected results were analyzed from the point of view of the mechanism of action of blackcurrant extract and the factors, which may determine the activity of this formulation.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Layered double hydroxides and their tailored hybrids/composites: Progressive trends for delivery of natural/synthetic-drug/cosmetic biomolecules

Layered double hydroxides (LDHs) are well-known and important class of hydrotalcite-type anionic clays (HTs) materials that are cost-effective with additional advantages of facile synthesis, composition, tenability, and reusability. These convincing characteristics are liable for their applications in various fields related to energy, environment, catalysis, biomedical, and biotechnology. HTs/LDHs are generally synthesized from low cost abundantly available chemical precursors through the aqueous synthetic pathways under mild reaction conditions. These materials can be termed green materials based on their non-toxic nature, availability of precursors, facile and low-cost production using aqueous medium conditions with less hazardous effluents. Diverse and fascinating characteristics have been attributed to HTs/LDHs like anion exchange ability, surface basicity, biocompatibility, controlled release of the anion specific area, porosity, easy surface modification, and pH dependent biodegradability. Hence, HTs/LDHs and their modified and/or functionalized nanohybrids/nanocomposites are reported as the potential drug delivery carriers with a capability to stabilize the susceptible bioactive molecules, may enhance the solubility of poorly soluble drugs along with controlled drug/bioactive molecule release and delivery. These clay and bioactive hybrid materials have good biocompatibility, less cytotoxicity, and better site-targeting with improved cellular uptake than that of free parent biomolecules. These lamellar solids of micro/nanostructure are compatible, host-guest materials and able to fabricate with drugs/cosmeceutical/bio- or synthetic polymers without any change in their molecular structure and reactivity along with improvement in their stabilities. Other important features are facile synthesis, basicity, high stability with easy storage, and efficient administration with low bio-toxicity. This study enlightens the applications of HTs/LDHs along with their hybrids/composites in the field of drug/cosmeceutical/gene delivery systems of natural/synthetic biomolecules.

Gauging Quince Phytonutrients and Its 4% Emulgel Effect on Amplifying Facial Skin Moisturizing Potential

BACKGROUND

The aim of this study was to evaluate the moisturizing efficacy of quince fruit, used in folk medicine. For this purpose, the phytoconstituents of Cydonia oblonga fruit extract, like phenolics and flavonoids, were determined. A stable cosmetic emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and subjected to in vivo evaluation compared with a control.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was evaluated for tyrosinase activity and phenolic and flavonoid content. A stable emulgel containing 4% Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract was formulated and tested in a skin irritation test. After this, in vivo tests of erythema, moisture, sebum, and skin elasticity were conducted. The in vivo evaluation was a randomized and single-blind study. Thirteen healthy female volunteers were selected for a three-month study period.

RESULTS

Cydonia oblonga fruit extract showed good phenolic and flavonoid content, which was associated with its good antioxidant and tyrosinase-inhibiting activity. Cydonia oblonga containing the emulgel showed a reduction in sebum and erythema, while the elasticity and moisture content showed increments in their levels after the three-month application of the formulation. The fruit contains chlorogenic acid and many sugars, which might account for its anti-inflammatory and sebum reduction effects; it is also capable of enhancing the skin's hydration level and decreasing skin sagging by enhancing its elasticity.

CONCLUSION

The emulgel loaded with Cydonia oblonga fresh fruit extract is verified regarding its folklore status as a moisturizing agent that enhances the facial skin cells' resilience potential.

Tamarix articulata extract offers protection against toxicity induced by beauty products in Hs27 human skin fibroblasts

The current study evaluates the cytotoxicity, mode of cell death and chemical analysis of selected beauty products and evaluation of the protective effect of Tamarix articulata (TA) extract against toxicity induced by beauty products in skin fibroblasts (Hs27). MTT and Crystal violet (CV) assays were used to determine the dose-dependent cytotoxic effects of beauty products against Hs27 fibroblasts. DNA fragmentation assay and annexin-V staining were conducted to determine the mode of cell killing induced by evaluated beauty products. Quantification of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and antioxidant enzyme levels were used to evaluate the oxidative stress. Chemical analysis and heavy metals were evaluated to determine beauty products. Pre-treatment with TA extract for different time points followed by time-dependent exposure with beauty products to assess the protective effect of TA extract in Hs27 cells was analyzed by MTT and CV assays. Owing to the presence of various harmful heavy metals such as arsenic (As), chromium (Cr), cadmium (Cd), nickel (Ni), and lead (Pb) in beauty products, our results revealed that all beauty products induce significant cytotoxicity over time (1, 4 h) in a dose-dependent (125, 250, 500 μg/mL) manner. DNA fragmentation assay, quantification of apoptosis by annexin-V staining, determination of ROS and antioxidant enzymes (CAT, GSH-Px and SOD) revealed that the induced cytotoxicity was caused by oxidative stress-mediated apoptosis. However, pre-incubation with a safe dose (50 μg/mL) of TA for different times (24, 48 h) followed by exposure to various doses (62.5, 125, 250, 500 μg/mL) of beauty products for different times (1, 4 h) revealed significant (*p≤0.05, **p≤0.01) protection against beauty product-mediated cytotoxicity. The effect was more pronounced for 1 h exposure to beauty products compared to 4 h. Our study demonstrates that the due to the presence of heavy metals in synthetic beauty products exhibit marked toxicity to skin fibroblasts due to oxidative stress-mediated apoptosis. However, the presence of abundant bioactive polyphenols with promising antiscavenging activity in TA extracts significantly nullifies cytotoxicity promoted by examined beauty products in skin fibroblasts (Hs27).

A Comparative Study between Onion Peel Extracts, Free and Complexed with β-Cyclodextrin, as a Natural UV Filter to Cosmetic Formulations

The growing concern regarding the adverse effects of synthetic UV filters found in sunscreens has spurred significant attention due to their potential harm to aquatic ecosystems and human health. To address this, the present study aimed to extract and microencapsulate sensitive bioactive compounds derived from by-product onion peel (OP) by molecular inclusion using β-cyclodextrin as the wall material. Identification and quantification of bioactive compounds within the extract were conducted through high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC-DAD) analysis, revealing quercetin and resveratrol as the primary constituents. The photoprotection capacity, evaluated by the sun protection factor (SPF), revealed a protection factor comparable to the value for a synthetic UV filter. The produced microparticles presented high antioxidant capacity, significant photoprotection capacity, encapsulation efficiency of 91.8%, mean diameter of 31 μm, and polydispersity of 2.09. Furthermore, to comprehensively evaluate the performance of OP extract and its potential as a natural UV filter, five O/W emulsions were produced. Results demonstrated that microparticles displayed superior ability in maintaining SPF values over a five-week period. Photoprotection evaluation-skin reactivity tests revealed that both extract and microparticles absorb UV radiation in other regions of UV radiation, revealing their potential to be used as a natural UV filter to produce a sustainable and eco-friendly value-added sunscreen.

Evaluation of the Biological Activity of Hydrogel with Cornus mas L. Extract and Its Potential Use in Dermatology and Cosmetology

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3-O-galactoside, pelargonidin 3-O-glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Effect of Ferulago lutea (Poir.) Grande Essential Oil on Molecular Hallmarks of Skin Aging

With the increase in global life expectancy, maintaining health into old age becomes a challenge, and research has thus concentrated on various strategies which aimed to mitigate the effects of skin aging. Aromatic plants stand out as promising sources of anti-aging compounds due to their secondary metabolites, particularly essential oils (EOs). The aim of this study was to ascribe to Ferulago lutea EO several biological activities that could be useful in the context of skin aging. The EO was obtained using hydrodistillation and characterized by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC/MS). The anti-inflammatory potential was assessed using lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophages. The effect on cell migration was disclosed using scratch wound assay. Lipogenesis was induced using T0901317, hyperpigmentation with 3-isobutyl-1-methylxantine (IBMX) and senescence with etoposide. Our results show that the EO was characterized mainly by α-pinene and limonene. The EO was able to decrease nitric oxide (NO) release as well as iNOS and pro-IL-1β protein levels. The EO promoted wound healing while decreasing lipogenesis and having depigmenting effects. The EO also reduced senescence-associated β-galactosidase, p21/p53 protein levels and the nuclear accumulation of γH2AX. Overall, our study highlights the properties of F. lutea EO that make it a compelling candidate for dermocosmetics applications.

Phytosterols in rice bran and their health benefits

With the continuous technological innovation in the high-value utilization of rice bran byproducts, rice bran oil retains a higher concentration of beneficial components such as a well-balanced composition of fatty acids and abundant phytosterols. This makes it a highly nutritious and healthy vegetable oil. This review provides an overview of the advancements made in separating, purifying, and processing phytosterols in rice bran oil. The review also introduces techniques for assessing the stability of rice bran oil. Moreover, the review emphasizes the nutritional value of phytosterols found in rice bran oil, highlighting their various health benefits, including their anticancer, anti-inflammatory, anti-allergic, antibacterial, cholesterol-lowering, skin-protective, anti-obesity, anti-diabetic, neuroprotective, gastroprotective, and immune-enhancing effects. Attaining a comprehensive understanding of the research progress made in phytosterols derived from rice bran oil can offer valuable guidance for the efficient utilization of rice bran.

LC-MS profiling-based non-targeted secondary metabolite screening for deciphering cosmeceutical potential of Malaysian algae

BACKGROUND

Application of natural resources from the marine environment in the cosmeceutical industry is gaining great attention.

AIM

This study pursues to discover the cosmeceutical potential of two Malaysian algae, Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. by determining their antioxidant capacity and assessing the presence of their secondary metabolites with cosmeceutical potential using non-targeted metabolite profiling.

METHODS

Metabolite profiling using Quadrupole Time-of-Flight (Q-TOF) liquid chromatography-mass spectrometry (LC-MS) in the Electrospray Ionization (ESI) mode resulted in 110 putative metabolites in Sargassum sp. and 47 putative metabolites in Kappaphycus sp. and were grouped according to their functions. To the best of our knowledge, the bioactive compounds of both algae have not been studied in any great detail. This is the first report to explore their cosmeceutical potential.

RESULTS

Six antioxidants were detected in Sargassum sp., including fucoxanthin, (3S, 4R, 3'R)-4-Hydroxyalloxanthin, enzacamene N-stearoyl valine, 2-hydroxy-hexadecanoic acid, and metalloporphyrins. Meanwhile, three antioxidants detected in Kappahycus sp., namely Tanacetol A, 2-fluoro palmitic acid and idebenone metabolites. Three antioxidants are found in both algae species, namely, 3-tert-Butyl-5-methylcatechol, (-)-isoamijiol, and (6S)-dehydrovomifoliol. Anti-inflammatory metabolites such as 5(R)-HETE, protoverine, phytosphingosine, 4,5-Leukotriene-A4, and 5Z-octadecenoic acid were also found in both species. Sargassum sp. possesses higher antioxidant capacity as compared to Kappahycus sp. which may be linked to its number of antioxidant compounds found through LC-MS.

CONCLUSIONS

Hence, our results conclude that Malaysian Sargassum sp. and Kappaphycus sp. are potential natural cosmeceutical ingredients as we aim to produce algae cosmeceutical products using native algae.

Bromelain: a review of its mechanisms, pharmacological effects and potential applications

The utilization of plant-derived supplements for disease prevention and treatment has long been recognized because of their remarkable potential. Ananas comosus, commonly known as pineapple, produces a group of enzymes called bromelain, which contains sulfhydryl moieties. Recent studies have shown that bromelain exhibits a wide range of activities, including anti-inflammatory, anti-diabetic, anti-cancer, and anti-rheumatic properties. These properties make bromelain a promising drug candidate for the treatment of various diseases. The anti-inflammatory activity of bromelain has been shown to be useful in treating inflammatory conditions such as osteoarthritis, rheumatoid arthritis, and asthma, whereas the anti-cancer activity of bromelain is via induction of apoptosis, inhibition of angiogenesis, and enhancement of the body's immune response. The anti-diabetic property of bromelain is owing to the improvement in glucose metabolism and reduction in insulin resistance. The therapeutic potential of bromelain has been investigated in numerous preclinical and clinical studies and a number of patents have been granted to date. Various formulations and delivery systems are being developed in order to improve the efficacy and safety of this molecule, including the microencapsulated form to treat oral inflammatory conditions and liposomal formulations to treat cancer. The development of novel drug delivery systems and formulations has further ameliorated the therapeutic potential of bromelain by improving its bioavailability and stability, while reducing the side effects. This review intends to discuss various properties and therapeutic applications of bromelain, along with its possible mechanism of action in treating various diseases. Recent patents and clinical trials concerning bromelain have also been covered.

Revealing the Beauty Potential of Grape Stems: Harnessing Phenolic Compounds for Cosmetics

Grape stems have emerged as a promising natural ingredient in the cosmetics industry due to their abundance of phenolic compounds, known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. These compounds have shown great potential in promoting skin health, fighting signs of aging, and shielding against environmental stressors. With high concentrations of resveratrol, flavonoids, and tannins, grape stems have garnered attention from cosmetic scientists. Research has indicated that phenolic compounds extracted from grape stems possess potent antioxidant abilities, effectively combating free radicals that accelerate aging. Moreover, these compounds have demonstrated the capacity to shield the skin from UV damage, boost collagen production, and enhance skin elasticity. Cosmetic formulations incorporating grape stem extracts have displayed promising results in addressing various skin concerns, including reducing wrinkles, fine lines, and age spots, leading to a more youthful appearance. Additionally, grape stem extracts have exhibited anti-inflammatory properties, soothing irritated skin and diminishing redness. Exploring the potential of grape stem phenolic compounds for cosmetics paves the way for sustainable and natural beauty products. By harnessing the beauty benefits of grape stems, the cosmetics industry can provide effective and eco-friendly solutions for consumers seeking natural alternatives. Ongoing research holds the promise of innovative grape stem-based formulations that could revolutionize the cosmetics market, fully unlocking the potential of these extraordinary botanical treasures.

Green Alternatives as Antimicrobial Agents in Mitigating Periodontal Diseases: A Narrative Review

Periodontal diseases and dental caries are the most common infectious oral diseases impacting oral health globally. Oral cavity health is crucial for enhancing life quality since it serves as the entranceway to general health. The oral microbiome and oral infectious diseases are strongly correlated. Gram-negative anaerobic bacteria have been associated with periodontal diseases. Due to the shortcomings of several antimicrobial medications frequently applied in dentistry, the lack of resources in developing countries, the prevalence of oral inflammatory conditions, and the rise in bacterial antibiotic resistance, there is a need for reliable, efficient, and affordable alternative solutions for the prevention and treatment of periodontal diseases. Several accessible chemical agents can alter the oral microbiota, although these substances also have unfavorable symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, and tooth discoloration. Natural phytochemicals generated from plants that have historically been used as medicines are categorized as prospective alternatives due to the ongoing quest for substitute products. This review concentrated on phytochemicals or herbal extracts that impact periodontal diseases by decreasing the formation of dental biofilms and plaques, preventing the proliferation of oral pathogens, and inhibiting bacterial adhesion to surfaces. Investigations examining the effectiveness and safety of plant-based medicines have also been presented, including those conducted over the past decade.

Steroids and Fatty Acid Esters from Cyperus sexangularis Leaf and Their Antioxidant, Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Elastase Properties

Cyperus sexangularis (CS) is a plant in the sedges family (Cyperaceae) that grows abundantly in swampy areas. The leaf sheath of plants in the Cyperus genus are mostly used domestically for mat making, while they are implicated for skin treatment in traditional medicine. The plant was investigated for its phytochemical contents as well as its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. The n-hexane and dichloromethane leaf extracts were chromatographed on a silica gel column to afford compounds 1-6. The compounds were characterized by nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy and mass spectrometry. The inhibitory effect of each compound against 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), nitric oxide (NO) and ferric ion radicals were determined by standard in vitro antioxidant methods. The in vitro anti-inflammatory response was measured using egg albumin denaturation (EAD) assay, while the anti-elastase activity of each compound in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) cells was also monitored. The compounds were characterized as three steroidal derivatives, stigmasterol (1), 17-(1-methyl-allyl)-hexadecahydro-cyclopenta[a]phenanthrene (2) and β-sitosterol (3), dodecanoic acid (4) and two fatty acid esters, ethyl nonadecanoate (5) and ethyl stearate (6). Stigmasterol (1) exhibited the best biological properties, with IC₅₀ of 38.18 ± 2.30 µg/mL against DPPH, 68.56 ± 4.03 µg/mL against NO and 303.58 ± 10.33 µAAE/mg against Fe³⁺. At 6.25 µg/mL, stigmasterol inhibited EAD by 50%. This activity was lower when compared to diclofenac (standard), which demonstrated 75% inhibition of the protein at the same concentration. Compounds 1, 3, 4 and 5 showed comparable anti-elastase activity with an IC₅₀ ≥ 50 µg/mL, whereas the activity of ursolic acid (standard) was double fold with an IC₅₀ of 24.80 ± 2.60 µg/mL when compared to each of the compounds. In conclusion, this study has identified three steroids (1-3), one fatty acid (4), and two fatty acid esters (5 and 6) in C. sexangularis leaf for the first time. The compounds showed considerable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-elastase properties. Thus, the findings may serve as a justification for the folkloric use of the plant as a local skin ingredient. It may also serve to validate the biological role of steroids and fatty acid compounds in cosmeceutical formulations.

Mechanism of skin whitening through San-Bai decoction-induced tyrosinase inhibition and discovery of natural products targeting tyrosinase

Melanin deposition is the main cause of skin darkening, which can lead to severe physical and psychological distress, necessitating the development of approaches for preserving skin health and fairness. Tyrosinase (TYR) is the rate-limiting enzyme in melanin synthesis, and its activity directly determines the degree of melanin accumulation in the skin, which in turn affects skin color. Currently, TYR inhibitors derived from natural products are widely used for skin whitening. San-Bai decoction (SBD) is effective for skin whitening and softening, but its mechanism of action, efficacy and high efficiency TYR inhibitors for skin whitening remain poorly understood. Here, we employed systems biology and network pharmacology to analyze the active compounds and targets of SBD, using the follow databases: TCMIP, TCMID, and BATMAN-TCM. Construct a molecular network centered on the regulation of TYR by SBD in skin whitening, using STRING database and cytoscape. Enrichment analysis using KOBAS database and ClusterProfiler. Virtual screening of candidate TYR inhibitors using Molecular Operating Environment software and Amber 18 software. SBD may act through tyrosine metabolism, melanogenesis, and other signaling pathways to regulate TYR activity and inhibit melanogenesis. We identified TYR and ESR1 as possible key targets for the whitening effect of SBD and screened out pentagalloylglucose, 1,3,6-tri-O-galloyl-beta-D-glucose, 1,2,4,6-tetragalloylglucose, and liquiritigenin 4',7-diglucoside as inhibitors of TYR, in addition to glycyrrhizic acid, pachymic acid methyl ester, nicotiflorin, gamma-sitosterol, and isoliensinine as inhibitors of ESR1. We also performed virtual drug screening of a library of natural small-molecule compounds (19,505 in total) and screened out lycopsamine, 2-phenylethyl b-D-glucopyranoside, and 6-beta-hydroxyhyoscyamine as inhibitors of TYR. We identified natural compounds with the potential for skin whitening through inhibition of TYR, thus advancing research on SBD and its applications.

Dermatological Management of Aged Skin

The subject of the work concerns the dermatological management of patients mainly with aged skin. The purpose of the work was to present the basic techniques and preparations which are performed by dermatologists in the treatment of aged skin. There are dermatological treatments related to the treatment of skin diseases and cosmetic treatments which are mainly related to skin care. In this work, the method of literature research was applied. On the basis of books and journal articles on dermatological and cosmetic procedures for aged skin, an analysis of treatment types was made. Then, the results of this analysis were presented in the paper under discussion. The paper presents information on the skin and its properties. The structure and functions of the skin, aging processes and characteristics of aged skin were discussed. Then, the possibilities of reducing the visible signs of skin aging through the use of invasive and non-invasive dermatological and cosmetological treatments were given, and the most important components of preparations used supportively in combating skin aging processes were discussed.

Extract of Bletilla formosana callus elevates cellular antioxidative activity via Nrf2/HO-1 signaling pathway and inhibits melanogenesis in zebrafish

BACKGROUND

Bletilla species are endangered terrestrial orchids used in natural skin care formulas in Asia for a long history. In order to explore the bioactivity potential of Bletilla species as a cosmetic ingredient in a sustainable resource manner, the callus of Bletilla formosana (Hayata) Schltr. was established and extracted by an eco-friendly supercritical fluid CO₂ extraction (SFE-CO₂) method. The intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) scavenging activity and antioxidation-related gene expression of the callus extract were evaluated in both Hs68 fibroblast cells and HaCaT keratinocytes. The melanogenesis-inhibitory effect was investigated in B16F10 melanoma cells and in an in vivo zebrafish model.

RESULTS

The calli of B. formosana were propagated for 10-15 generations with a consistent yellow friable appearance and then subjected to SFE-CO₂ extraction to obtain a yellow pasty extract. Obvious intracellular ROS scavenging activity of the extract was detected in both Hs68 and HaCaT cells with 64.30 ± 8.27% and 32.50 ± 4.05% reduction at the concentration of 250 μg/mL. Moreover, marked expression levels of heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1) and (NAD(P)H) quinone oxidoreductase-1 (NQO1) genes were detected after 6-h and 24-h treatments. These results indicate the cellular antioxidative activity of B. formosana callus extract was probably activated via the nuclear factor erythroid 2-related factor 2 (Nrf2)/HO-1 signaling pathway. Melanogenesis-inhibitory effect of the extract was observed in α-MSH stimuli-inducing B16F10 cells with 28.46% inhibition of intracellular melanin content at the concentration of 50 μg/ml. The effect was confirmed with in vivo zebrafish embryos that showed a relative pigmentation density of 80.27 ± 7.98% at the concentration of 100 μg/mL without toxicity.

CONCLUSION

Our results shed light on a sustainable utilization of Bletilla species as a potential ingredient for skin.

Electrospun PLA-Based Biomaterials Loaded with Melissa officinalis Extract with Strong Antioxidant Activity

In the present study, the plant extract Melissa officinalis (M. officinalis) was successfully loaded in polymer fibrous materials on the basis of a biodegradable polyester-poly(L-lactide) (PLA) and biocompatible polyether-polyethylene glycol (PEG) by applying the electrospinning method. The optimal process conditions for the preparation of hybrid fibrous materials were found. The extract concentration was varied-0, 5 or 10 wt% in respect of the polymer weight, in order to study its influence on the morphology and the physico-chemical properties of the obtained electrospun materials. All the prepared fibrous mats were composed of defect-free fibers. The mean fiber diameters of the PLA, PLA/M. officinalis (5 wt%) and PLA/M. officinalis (10 wt%) were 1370 ± 220 nm, 1398 ± 233 nm and 1506 ± 242 nm, respectively. The incorporation of the M. officinalis into the fibers resulted in slight increase of the fiber diameters and in increase of the water contact angle values to 133°. The presence of the polyether in the fabricated fibrous material assisted the wetting of the materials imparting them with hydrophilicity (the value of the water contact angle become 0°). Extract-containing fibrous materials displayed strong antioxidant activity as determined by the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picryl-hydrazyl-hydrate free radical method. The DPPH solution color changed to yellow and the absorbance of the DPPH radical dropped by 88.7% and 91% after being in contact with PLA/M. officinalis and PLA/PEG/M. officinalis mats, respectively. These features revealed the M. officinalis-containing fibrous biomaterials promising candidates for pharmaceutical, cosmetic and biomedical use.

Unravelling the phenolic compound reserves, antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities of an endemic plant species, Achillea pseudoaleppica

The present ethnobotanical study unravelled the phenolic reservoir (UHPLC-MS/TQ-MS) and pharmacological activity (antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory activities) of an endemic plant, Achillea pseudoaleppica Hub.-Mor. (Asteraceae). The effective antioxidant properties of ethanol and water extracts of A. pseudoaleppica leaves were determined by using six different in vitro bioanalytical methods including three reducing antioxidant methods and three radical scavenging antioxidant methods. In the other step of the study, the enzyme inhibitory effects of water and ethanol extracts of A. pseudoaleppica were determined against acetylcholinesterase (AChE), butyrylcholinesterase (BChE), α-amylase, and α-glucosidase enzymes. The ethanol extract was found to have effective inhibition potential for all four respected enzymes. The IC₅₀ values of A. pseudoaleppica extract against AChE, BChE, α-amylase, and α-glucosidase enzymes were found to be 2.67 mg/mL, 4.55 mg/mL, 16.51 mg/mL, and 12.37 mg/mL, respectively. Also, UHPLC-MS/TQ-MS analyses revealed quinic acid as the most abundant phenolic compound of the water extract (31.12 ± 1.65 µg/mg) and ethanol extract (11.75 ± 0.82 µg/mg). In addition, the molecular docking interaction of the most abundant phenolic compound of A. pseudoaleppica (quinic acid) with AChE, BChE, α-amylase, and α-glucosidase target enzymes were evaluated using Chimera and AutoDock Vina softwares. In conclusion, the rich phenolic content and the potent antioxidant and enzyme inhibitory properties of A. pseudoaleppica extracts may support the widespread ethnobotanical use of the plant application.Communicated by Ramaswamy H. Sarma.

Extraction, purification, structural characteristics, biological activities, and application of the polysaccharides from Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. (lotus): A review

Nelumbo nucifera Gaertn. (lotus) is a widely distributed plant with a long history of cultivation and consumption. Almost all parts of the lotus can be used as foodstuff and nourishment, or as an herb. It is noteworthy that the polysaccharides obtained from lotus exhibit surprisingly and satisfying biological activities, which explains the various benefits of lotus to human health, including anti-diabetes, anti-osteoporosis, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor, etc. Here, we systematically review the recent major studies on extraction and purification methods of polysaccharides from different parts (rhizome, seed, leaf, plumule, receptacle and stamen) of lotus, as well as the characterization of their chemical structure, biological activity and structure-activity relationship, and the applications of lotus polysaccharides in different fields. This article will give an updated and deeper understanding of lotus polysaccharides and provide theoretical basis for their further research and application in human health and manufacture development.

Investigation of Chemical Composition and Biological Activities of Ajuga pyramidalis-Isolation of Iridoids and Phenylethanoid Glycosides

Despite several studies on the Ajuga L. genus, the chemical composition of Ajuga pyramidalis, an alpine endemic species, is still largely unknown. The purpose of this study was to therefore deeper describe it, particularly from the phytochemistry and bioactivity perspectives. In that respect, A. pyramidalis was investigated and 95% of the extracted mass of the plant was characterized by chromatography and mass spectrometry. Apart from the already determined chemical compounds, namely, harpagide and 8-O-acetylharpagide, two iridoids, and neoajugapyrin A, a neo-clerodane diterpene, and three polyphenols (echinacoside, verbascoside and teupoloside) were identified for the first time in A. pyramidalis. Incidentally, the first RX structure of a harpagoside derivative is also described in this paper. The extracts and isolated compounds were then evaluated for various biochemical or biological activities; notably a targeted action on the renewal of the epidermis was highlighted with potential applications in the cosmetic field for anti-aging.

Pistachio, Pomegranate and Olive Byproducts Added to Sheep Rations Change the Biofunctional Properties of Milk through the Milk Amino Acid Profile

This study was carried out to determine the effects of adding pistachio shell (PIS), pomegranate hull (POM), and olive pulp (OP) to the diet on milk amino acid and fatty acid parameters in Awassi sheep. In the study, 40 head of Awassi sheep, which gave birth at least twice, were used as animal material. Sheep were fed a control diet without added byproducts (CON), rations containing PIS, POM, and OP. Milk amino acid profile was determined by liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry, milk fatty acid gas chromatography-flame ionization detection device. There was a dramatic reduction in alanine, citrulline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, leucine, ornithine and alphaaminoadipic acid in the research groups. In the PIS group, argininosuccinic acid, gammaminobutyric acid, beta-alanine and sarcosine; In the POM group, asparagine, gammaminobutyric acid, beta-alanine, and taurine; In the OP group, a significant positive increase was found in terms of alanine, histidine, gammaminobutyric acid, and taurine amino acids. The applications in the study did not have a statistically significant effect on the ratio of short, medium and long chain fatty acids in milk (p>0.05). In the presented study, it was determined that PIS, POM, and OP, which were added to the sheep rations at a rate of 5%, caused significant changes in the milk amino acid profiles. In this change in milk amino acid profiles, the benefit-harm relationship should be considered.

Algorithm for environmental risk assessment of cosmetics to reduce their environmental impact

Cosmetics, especially rinse-off personal care products (PCPs), such as shampoo, facial cleanser, and body wash, are composed of various chemicals and are one of the sources of chemicals released into aquatic ecosystems. Therefore, the cosmetic industry strives to reduce the impact of their products on the aquatic environment. In this study, we proposed an algorithm based on persistence, bioaccumulation potential, and toxicity (PBT) for the environmental risk assessment of cosmetics. PBT features are generally used in the evaluation of the environmental impact of chemicals. Based on the PBT assessment, it is possible to predict the short- and long-term effects of chemicals on the environment. Our algorithm derives substance and product scores from PBT features, allowing for the risk assessment of each ingredient in the product. Furthermore, we proposed a criterion for the environmental impact grade through which each component can be classified. We intend to use this grade and factors determined through the algorithm to manufacture products with low environmental impact.

Evaluation of the Antioxidant, Cytoprotective and Antityrosinase Effects of Schisandra chinensis Extracts and Their Applicability in Skin Care Product

Plant extracts have been widely used for skin care for many centuries, and nowadays, they are commonly applied for the development and enrichment of new cosmetic preparations. The present study aimed the assessment of the biological activity of aqueous Schisandra chinensis extracts as a potential ingredient of skin care products. The aspects studied involved the ability to neutralize free radicals, impact on viability and metabolism of keratinocytes, as well as tyrosinase inhibitory potential. Our study showed that aqueous S. chinensis extracts have a positive effect on keratinocyte growth and have high antioxidant potential and strong tyrosinase inhibitory activity. UPLC-MS analysis revealed that three groups of phenolic compounds were predominant in the analyzed extract, including lignans, phenolic acids and flavonoids and protocatechiuc and p-coumaryl quinic acids were predominant. Moreover, microwave-assisted extraction, followed by heat reflux extraction, was the most effective for extracting polyphenols. Furthermore, a prototypical natural body washes gel formulation containing the previously prepared extracts was developed. The irritation potential and viscosity were assessed for each of the formulations. The study demonstrated that the addition of these extracts to body wash gel formulations has a positive effect on their quality and may contribute to a decrease in skin irritation. In summary, S. chinensis aqueous extracts can be seen as an innovative ingredient useful in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry.

Response surface optimization of enzymatic hydrolysis and ROS scavenging activity of silk sericin hydrolysates

CONTEXT

Sericin, a protein found in wastewater from the silk industry, was shown to contain a variety of biological activities, including antioxidant. The enzymatic conditions have been continuously modified to improve antioxidant effect and scavenging capacity against various free radicals of silk sericin protein.

OBJECTIVE

Variables in enzymatic reactions, including pH, temperature and enzyme/substrate ratio were analysed to discover the optimum conditions for antioxidant activity of sericin hydrolysates.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

Hydrolysis reaction catalysed by Alcalase^® was optimized through response surface methodology (RSM) in order to generate sericin hydrolysates possessing potency for % inhibition on 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) radicals, ferric-reducing power and peroxyl scavenging capacity. Flow cytometry was performed to evaluate cellular ROS level in human HaCaT keratinocytes and melanin-generating MNT1 cells pre-treated either with 20 mg/mL RSM-optimized sericin hydrolysates or 5 mM N-acetyl cysteine (NAC) for 60 min prior exposure with 1 mM hydrogen peroxide (H₂O₂).

RESULTS

Among these three variables, response surface plots demonstrate the major role of temperature on scavenging capacity of sericin hydrolysates. Sericin hydrolysates prepared by using Alcalase^® at RSM-optimized condition (enzyme/substrate ratio: 1.5, pH: 7.5, temperature: 70 °C) possessed % inhibition against H₂O₂ at 99.11 ± 0.54% and 73.25 ± 8.32% in HaCaT and MNT1 cells, respectively, while pre-treatment with NAC indicated the % inhibition only at 30.26 ± 7.62% in HaCaT and 51.05 ± 7.14% in MNT1 cells.

DISCUSSION AND CONCLUSIONS

The acquired RSM information would be of benefit for further developing antioxidant peptide from diverse resources, especially the recycling of waste products from silk industry.

Grain and Leaf Anthocyanin Concentration Varies among Purple Rice Varieties and Growing Condition in Aerated and Flooded Soil

Anthocyanins are a group of pigments responsible for the red-blue color in plant parts, and have potential for health benefits and pharmaceutical ingredients. To evaluate whether anthocyanin concentrations in five purple rice varieties could be varied by water condition, plants were grown in waterlogged and aerobic (well-drained) soil. Grain anthocyanin concentration and grain yield were measured at maturity, while leaf anthocyanin concentrations were measured at booting and flowering stages. Four varieties grown under the waterlogged condition had 2.0−5.5 times higher grain anthocyanin than in the aerobic condition. There was a positive relationship between grain and leaf anthocyanin at booting in the waterlogged condition (r = 0.90, p < 0.05), while grain and leaf anthocyanin were positively correlated at flowering in both the waterlogged (r = 0.88, p < 0.05) and aerobic (r = 0.97, p < 0.01) conditions. The results suggest that water management should be adopted as a practical agronomic tool for improving the anthocyanin concentration of purple rice for specialist markets, but the specific responses between rice varieties to water management should be carefully considered.

Natural products in cosmetics

The global cosmetics market reached US$500 billion in 2017 and is expected to exceed US$800 billion by 2023, at around a 7% annual growth rate. The cosmetics industry is emerging as one of the fastest-growing industries of the past decade. Data shows that the Chinese cosmetics market was US$60 billion in 2021. It is expected to be the world's number one consumer cosmetics market by 2050, with a size of approximately US$450 billion. The influence of social media and the internet has raised awareness of the risks associated with the usage of many chemicals in cosmetics and the health benefits of natural products derived from plants and other natural resources. As a result, the cosmetic industry is now paying more attention to natural products. The present review focus on the possible applications of natural products from various biological sources in skin care cosmetics, including topical care products, fragrances, moisturizers, UV protective, and anti-wrinkle products. In addition, the mechanisms of targets for evaluation of active ingredients in cosmetics and the possible benefits of these bioactive compounds in rejuvenation and health, and their potential role in cosmetics are also discussed.

Novel Herbal Nanocarriers for Treatment of Dermatological Disorders

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVE

In the present scenario, the use of novel nanocarriers to provide a better therapy regimen is noteworthy. Nanotechnology with the advanced system enables the herbs for encapsulation within the smart carrier and boosts the nanotherapeutic. These emerging innovations of herbal nanocarriers have paved the way for dermal targeting by eliciting the desired response for particular diseases.

METHODS

In this current manuscript, an extensive search is conducted for the original research papers using databases, viz., Google Scholar, PubMed, Science Direct, etc. Furthermore, painstaking efforts are made to compile and update the novel herbal nanocarriers, such as liposomes, ethosomes, transferosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, nanogels, nanostructured lipid carriers, solid lipid carriers, etc., which are mostly used for the treatment of several skin maladies, viz., eczema, psoriasis, acne, etc. This article highlights the recent findings that the innovators are exclusively working on herbal drug delivery systems for dermal targeting, and these are enumerated in the form of tables.

CONCLUSION

Herbal formulations employing a suitable nanocarrier could be a promising approach for the treatment of several pathological conditions, including skin ailments. Therefore, scientific research is still being carried out in this specific area for a better perspective in herbal drug delivery and targeting.

Formulation and Physical Characterization of a Polysaccharidic Gel for the Vehiculation of an Insoluble Phytoextract for Mucosal Application

Maintaining insoluble plant-based ingredients in suspension and ensuring long-term physical stability is particularly challenging for formulators of green cosmetics. This study aimed to evaluate the structure and applicative properties of gel and gel-cream topical formulations suitable for delivering an insoluble phytocomplex on the vaginal mucosa and maintaining its integrity. For this purpose, we studied the compatibility of Perilla frutescens (L.) Britton phytocomplex (PFP), derived from in vitro plant cell cultures and presented as a powder finely dispersed in glycerin, with different classes of natural rheological modifiers (such as xanthan gum, sclerotium gum, succinoglycan, xyloglucan, diutan gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum derivative) in gel and gel-cream formulations, to meet the needs of the cosmetic market for naturalness and biodegradability. Through rheological and texture analyses, we studied the physico–mechanical properties of the samples, comparing the performances of the chosen polysaccharides to those of acrylic polymeric rheological modifiers, evaluating their contribution in terms of stability and applicative properties. Since a weak-gel rheological pattern proved to be the optimal one to keep the actives in suspension, the associations of tamarind seed polysaccharides with succinoglycan or scleroglucan were the most suitable for the formulation of mucoadhesive gels.