Natural components in sunscreens: Topical formulations with sun protection factor (SPF)

Environmental implications and nanotechnological advances in octocrylene-enriched sunscreen formulations: A comprehensive review

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is a major contributor to skin aging, cancer, and other detrimental health effects. Sunscreens containing FDA-approved UV filters, like avobenzone, offer protection but suffer from photodegradation and potential phototoxicity. Encapsulation, antioxidants, and photostabilizers are strategies employed to combat these drawbacks. Octocrylene, an organic UV filter, utilizes nanotechnology to enhance sun protection factor (SPF). This review examines recent literature on octocrylene-enriched sunscreens, exploring the interplay between environmental impact, nanotechnological advancements, and clinical trial insights. A critical focus is placed on the environmental consequences of sunscreen use, particularly the potential hazards UV filters pose to marine ecosystems. Research in the Mediterranean Sea suggests bacterial sensitivity to these filters, raising concerns about their integration into the food chain. This review aims to guide researchers in developing effective strategies for photostabilization of UV filters. By combining encapsulation, photostabilizers, and antioxidants, researchers can potentially reduce phototoxic effects and contribute to developing more environmentally friendly sunscreens.

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Protective Effects of Pear Extract on Skin from In Vitro and In Vivo UVA-Induced Damage

The ancient Chinese medical book "Compendium of Materia Medica" records that pears can relieve symptoms of respiratory-related diseases. Previous research has shown that pear Pyrus Pyrifolia (Burm.f.) Nakai has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-photoaging protective effects of Pyrus pyrifolia (Burm.f.) Nakai seed components have not been studied. Ultraviolet light (UV) causes skin inflammation, damages the skin barrier, and is an important cause of skin photoaging. Therefore, UV light with a wavelength of 365 nm was used to irradiate HaCaT and mice. Western blot, real-time quantitative polymerase chain reaction, and fluorescence imaging system were used to explore its anti-UVA mechanism. Dialysis membrane and nuclear magnetic resonance were used for the chemical constituent analysis of pear seed water extract (PSWE). We found that PSWE can significantly reduce UVA-induced skin cell death and mitogen-activated protein kinase phosphorylation and can inhibit the mRNA expression of UVA-induced cytokines (including IL-1β, IL-6, and TNF-α). In addition, PSWE can also reduce the generation of oxidative stress within skin cells. In vivo experimental studies found that PSWE pretreatment effectively reduced transepidermal water loss, inflammation, redness, and dryness in hairless mice. The molecular weight of the active part of pear water extract is approximately 384. Based on the above results, we first found that pear seeds can effectively inhibit oxidative stress and damage caused by UVA. It is a natural extract with antioxidant properties and anti-aging activity that protects skin cells and strengthens the skin barrier.

Preventive and Therapeutic Benefits of Natural Ingredients in Photo-Induced Epidermal Dysfunction

BACKGROUND

The skin, particularly the epidermis, is subjected to various external stresses, including ultraviolet (UV) irradiation. UV irradiation, mainly UVB at wavelength of 280-315 nm, can alter several epidermal functions, including cutaneous inflammation, epidermal hyperproliferation, DNA damage, disruption of epidermal permeability barrier and reduction in stratum corneum hydration levels. Because of the negative impacts of UVB irradiation on epidermal functions, great efforts have been made to develop regimens for the protection of alterations in epidermal function induced by UV irradiation.

SUMMARY

While sunscreen can provide physical barrier to UV light, some natural ingredients can also effectively protect the skin from UVB irradiation-induced damages. Studies have demonstrated that either topical or oral administrations of some natural ingredients attenuate UVB irradiation-induced alterations in the epidermal function. The underlying mechanisms by which natural ingredients improve epidermal functions are attributable to antioxidation, stimulation of keratinocyte differentiation, increases in the content of epidermal natural moisturizers and inhibition of inflammation.

KEY MESSAGE

Some natural ingredients exhibit protective and therapeutical benefits in photo-induced epidermal dysfunctions via divergent mechanisms.

Sunscreen Safety and Efficacy for the Prevention of Cutaneous Neoplasm

Sunscreen is widely used for ultraviolet radiation protection. Studies validate sun protection factors (SPFs) to prevent ultraviolet (UV)-induced skin changes such as melanoma and squamous cell carcinoma (SCC). Few studies examine sunscreen's impact on endocrine and immune system dysregulation, the production of radical oxygen species, and whether the ingredients deteriorate under prolonged exposure. We present an investigation of sunscreen labels and how ingredients impact sun safety and human health. A review of the literature was conducted using Embase and PubMed to examine sunscreen safety, efficacy, and use to prevent UV-induced skin damage. Increasing sunscreen reapplication, wearing protective clothing, and limiting exposure can reduce the incidence of skin cancer. Inorganic sunscreens form barriers to block UV light, but without titanium dioxide (TiO2), they may not be advantageous due to their low UVA protection. Organic sunscreens absorb into the skin and provide a better feeling after application. Octocrylene and avobenzone are stable and provide UVA and UVB protection with minimal adverse effects. Oxybenzone is harmful to the neuroendocrine system and should be avoided. Titanium dioxide works for broad-spectrum UV protection and offers minimal adverse effects. Octocrylene and avobenzone are organic sunscreen ingredients that also provide a better feeling on the skin after application, which enables higher rates of use. Oxybenzone should be avoided.

Anti-aging formula protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence through the inhibition of CXCR2 expression

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The skin is affected by endogenous and exogenous factors, which are the intuitive consequence expression of aging. Aging not only affects the aesthetics of the skin but also causes the decline of skin functions, leading to many skin diseases and even skin cancer. Anti-aging formula (AAF) has various biological effects such as antioxidants, regulation of intestinal flora metabolism, anti-aging, and memory improvement. However, it is not clarified whether it could be anti-aging of the skin and the anti-aging mechanism.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed to investigate whether AAF could prevent skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence and explore the underlying molecular mechanisms.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A mouse skin oxidative stress aging model was established based on ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, and parameters such as skin water content, melanogenesis, wrinkle production, pathological changes, and aging marker proteins were measured to elucidate whether AAF has an anti-aging effect on the skin. Subsequently, transcriptome sequencing (RNA-Seq) was used to identify target genes. An in vitro cellular senescence model was established to assess the role of AAF against cellular oxidative stress senescence by detecting senescence-related markers, while the specific mechanism of action of AAF in delaying skin senescence was elucidated by silencing or overexpression of targets.

RESULTS

In vivo experiments demonstrated that AAF significantly increased skin water content, reduced skin sensitivity and melanin content, slowed wrinkles, improved UV-induced epidermal thickening, increased collagen fiber content, improved elastic fiber morphology, and reduced the expression of senescence proteins P21 and P16 in skin tissues. The RNA-Seq results identified chemokine receptor 2 (CXCR2) as one of the potential targets for delaying skin senescence. In vitro experiments showed that AAF markedly improved the aging phenotype, and knockdown or overexpression experiments verified the essential role of CXCR2 in the skin senescence process. Mechanistic studies suggested that AAF inhibited the P38/P53 pathway by reducing CXCR2 expression, which improved the aging phenotype, reduced oxidative damage, and ultimately delayed cellular senescence.

CONCLUSION

The results reveal that AAF protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence by regulating the expression of critical target CXCR2, reducing P38 protein phosphorylation, and inhibiting P53 pathway activation. These discoveries implicate the potential of AAF in the protection of skin aging disease.

Positive and ecobiological contribution in skin photoprotection of ectoine and mannitol combined in vivo with UV filters

BACKGROUND

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation causes immunosuppression, photoaging, and carcinogenesis by induction of a cascade of skin damages. Sunscreens currently on the market are not absorbing UV rays uniformly throughout the full UV range, high sun protection factor (SPF) sunscreens absorb most of UVB rays but are less effective in absorbing the UVA part of the spectrum. In the context, one approach could consist of preserving the skin natural resources and mechanisms, which is the foundation of the ecobiological approach, by combing UV filters and antioxidants to enhance their photoprotective effect.

METHODS

First, the photoprotection properties of ectoine and mannitol association were characterized by the quantification of glutathione, reactive oxygen species, and double-stranded DNA breaks and by the epidermal Langerhans cells functionality. Second, the protection of squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and trans-urocanic acid (UCA) by the ectoine and mannitol association combined or not with SPF30 UV filters was assessed in vivo via non-invasive skin samplings in 10 subjects on irradiated areas.

RESULTS

Using in vitro irradiated skin cell models, we demonstrated that this association significantly preserved intracellular glutathione levels, reduced DNA strand breaks induced by oxidative stress, and maintained Langerhans cell functionality. In vivo this association combined with UV filters presented significantly higher protection of three natural defense systems altered by UV compared to UV filters alone: squalene oxidation, catalase activity, and preservation of trans-UCA.

CONCLUSION

This study demonstrates the ecobiological potential of combining UV filters with biological protection to increase skin photoprotection provided by specific active ingredients with antioxidative and immunosuppressive properties.

Assessment of the photoprotective potential and structural characterization of secondary metabolites of Antarctic fungus Arthrinium sp

Interest in Antarctic fungi has grown due to their resilience in harsh environments, suggesting the presence of valuable compounds from its organisms, such as those presenting photoprotective potential, since this environment suffers the most dangerous UV exposure in the world. Therefore, this research aimed to assess the photoprotective potential of compounds from sustainable marine sources, specifically seaweed-derived fungi from Antarctic continent. These studies led to discovery of photoprotective and antioxidant properties of metabolites from Arthrinium sp., an endophytic fungus from Antarctic brown algae Phaeurus antarcticus. From crude extract, fractions A-I were obtained and compounds 1-6 isolated from E and F fractions, namely 3-Hydroxybenzyl alcohol (1), (-)-orthosporin (2), norlichexanthone (3), anomalin B (4), anomalin A (5), and agonodepside B (6). Compounds 1, 2, and 6 were not previously reported in Arthrinium. Fraction F demonstrated excellent absorbance in both UVA and UVB regions, while compound 6 exhibited lower UVB absorbance, possibly due to synergistic effects. Fraction F and compound 6 displayed photostability and were non-phototoxic to HaCaT cells. They also exhibited antioxidant activity by reducing intracellular ROS production induced by UVA in keratinocyte monolayers and reconstructed human skin models (resulting in 34.6% and 30.2% fluorescence reduction) and did not show irritation potential in HET-CAM assay. Thus, both are promising candidates for use in sunscreens. It is noted that Fraction F does not require further purification, making it advantageous, although clinical studies are necessary to confirm its potential applicability for sunscreen formulations.

Preventive effect of andrographolide against ultraviolet-B radiation-induced oxidative stress and apoptotic signaling in human dermal fibroblasts

Ultraviolet radiation induces oxidative photoaging in the skin cells. In this study, we investigated the ability of andrographolide (ADP) to protect human dermal fibroblasts (HDFa) from UVB radiation-induced oxidative stress and apoptosis. The HDFa cells were exposed to UVB (19.8 mJ/cm2 ) radiation in the presence or absence of ADP (7 μM) and then oxidative stress and apoptotic protein expression were analyzed. UVB exposure resulted in a significant decline in the activity of antioxidant enzymes and altered mitochondrial membrane potential (MMP). Furthermore, UVB-irradiation causes increased intracellular reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, apoptotic morphological changes, and lipid peroxidation levels in the HDFa. Moreover, the pretreatment with ADP reduced the UVB-induced cytotoxicity, ROS production, and increased antioxidant enzymes activity. Further, the ADP pretreatment prevents the UVB-induced loss of MMP and apoptotic signaling in HDFa cells. Therefore, the present results suggest that ADP protects HDFa cells from UVB-induced oxidative stress and apoptotic damage.

Approaches in line with human physiology to prevent skin aging

Skin aging is a complex process that is influenced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that impact the skin's protective functions and overall health. As the body's outermost layer, the skin plays a critical role in defending it against external threats, regulating body temperature, providing tactile sensation, and synthesizing vitamin D for bone health, immune function, and body homeostasis. However, as individuals age, the skin undergoes structural and functional changes, leading to impairments in these essential functions. In contemporary society, there is an increasing recognition of skin health as a significant indicator of overall wellbeing, resulting in a growing demand for anti-aging products and treatments. However, these products often have limitations in terms of safety, effective skin penetration, and potential systemic complications. To address these concerns, researchers are now focusing on approaches that are safer and better aligned with physiology of the skin. These approaches include adopting a proper diet and maintaining healthy lifestyle habits, the development of topical treatments that synchronize with the skin's circadian rhythm, utilizing endogenous antioxidant molecules, such as melatonin and natural products like polyphenols. Moreover, exploring alternative compounds for sun protection, such as natural ultraviolet (UV)-absorbing compounds, can offer safer options for shielding the skin from harmful radiation. Researchers are currently exploring the potential of adipose-derived stem cells, cell-free blood cell secretome (BCS) and other endogenous compounds for maintaining skin health. These approaches are more secure and more effective alternatives which are in line with human physiology to tackle skin aging. By emphasizing these innovative strategies, it is possible to develop effective treatments that not only slow down the skin aging process but also align better with the natural physiology of the skin. This review will focus on recent research in this field, highlighting the potential of these treatments as being safer and more in line with the skin's physiology in order to combat the signs of aging.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

Extremophilic Solutions: The Role of Deinoxanthin in Counteracting UV-Induced Skin Harm

This research delved into the protective capacities of deinoxanthin, a carotenoid present in Deinococcus radiodurans, against UVA- and UVB-mediated skin damage using human fibroblast foreskin cells (HFF-1). Using the MTT assay, HFF-1 cells treated with 10 µM DNX displayed 20% and 31.7% higher viability than the positive (Vitamin C-treated) and negative (DNX-untreated) control groups, respectively, upon 100 mJ/cm2 UVB exposure. At 24 J/cm2 UVA, 20 µM DNX-treated cells showed 80.6% viability, exceeding the positive and negative control groups by 28.6% and 33.6%, respectively. Flow cytometry analysis revealed that cells treated with DNX and exposed to 24 J/cm2 UVA exhibited a 69.32% reduction in apoptotic processes compared to untreated cells. Similarly, when exposed to 100 mJ/cm2 UVB, DNX-treated cells demonstrated a 72.35% decrease in apoptotic processes relative to their untreated counterparts. DNX also displayed dose-dependent inhibition on tyrosinase activity. The study emphasized DNX's antioxidative capacity, evident in its modulation of superoxide dismutase activity and measurements of Malondialdehyde and intracellular reactive oxygen species levels. DNX-treated cells exhibited higher hydroxyproline levels, suggesting healthier collagen production. Additionally, the wound-healing assay method confirmed an accelerated healing rate in DNX-treated cells. Conclusively, DNX offers significant protection against UV-induced skin damage, emphasizing its potential for skincare and therapeutics.

The Use of Hemispheric Directional Reflectance Method to Verify the Usefulness of Filters Protecting the Skin Against Infrared Radiation

Introduction

Infrared radiation (IR) has a wide spectrum of both positive and harmful effects on the human body. Negative properties, manifested by increasing the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS), affect the skin ageing acceleration. Other adverse effect of infrared exposure is related to its ability to significantly penetrate deep into the skin, between its layers, up to blood vessels and other tissues and warm them up. Due to its harmful effects, protecting the skin against infrared radiation becomes an important issue.

Aim

The aim of the research was verifying the usefulness of filters available on the market with protection against infrared radiation declared by the manufacturers, by examining their impact on the directional reflectance of the human skin.

Methods

A group of 27 people was gathered, to obtain the results. Four products were applied on the participant's forearm skin, and then measurements of the directional reflectance of the skin were made at successive time points, using the 410-Solar reflectometer. The collected data was analyzed, and showed changes in reflectance under the influence of the applied protective products.

Results

The products used in the study showed a statistically significant effect on the directional reflectance of the human skin in near infrared radiation range and little effectiveness for higher wavelengths.

Discussion

The results indicate that the selected products show radiation protection against IR radiation only after several dozen minutes of application, which may suggest that they must penetrate deeper skin layers to be effective. Hemispheric directional reflectance turned out to be an effective method allows to assess the effectiveness of protective properties of cosmetics.

Exploring the Potential of Extracts from Sloanea medusula and S. calva: Formulating Two Skincare Gels with Antioxidant, Sun Protective Factor, and Anti-Candida albicans Activities

Sloanea is a plant genus, native to tropical regions, used in medicinal practices for its anti-inflammatory properties. This study aimed to determine the antioxidant activity, sun protective factor (SPF), and antifungal of extracts obtained from two species of Sloanea and to develop extract-based gels with antioxidants, photoprotective, and anti-Candida albicans effects. Ethanolic extracts from S. medusula and S. calva collected in Chocó, Colombia, were used for antioxidant activity and SPF determination using the DPPH assay and the Mansur equation, respectively. Extracts were characterized using HPLC-MS and used to prepare the gels. The viscosity of the extract-based gels was evaluated using an MCR92 rheometer. In addition, the anti-Candida activity of extracts against five yeasts and anti-C. albicans of gels were evaluated following the Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute M27, 4th Edition. High DPPH radical scavenging activity (42.4% and 44.7%) and a high SPF value (32.5 and 35.4) were obtained for the extracts of S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Similarly, extract-based gels showed significant DPPH radical scavenging activity of 54.5% and 53.0% and maximum SPF values of 60 and 57. Extract from S. medusula showed an important antifungal activity against C. albicans (minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 2 µg/mL). In contrast, S. calva extract was active against C. krusei, C. albicans (MIC of 2 µg/mL) and C. tropicalis (MIC of 4 µg/mL). Sloanea medusula gel (0.15%) exhibited an important C. albicans growth inhibition (98%), while with S. calva gel (0.3%) growth inhibition was slightly lower (76%). Polyphenolic and triterpenoid compounds were tentatively identified for S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Both extracts can be considered promising sources for developing photoprotective gels to treat skin infections caused by C. albicans.

Succinoglycan riclin relieves UVB-induced skin injury with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

Excessive UVB exposure increases the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which causes oxidative damage and epidermal inflammation. Previous studies have identified that the succinoglycan riclin has potent anti-inflammatory properties. The current study aims to investigate whether riclin protects against UVB-induced photodamage. In vitro, riclin demonstrated excellent moisture-preserving properties, along with antioxidant potential by scavenging superoxide anions, hydroxyl and DPPH radicals. Riclin increased Col1α1 and Col3α1 expression in NIH3T3 cells, inhibited oxidation and melanin synthesis by B16F10 cells upon UVB irradiation. In vivo, topical application of riclin effectively attenuated UVB-induced skin damage in C57BL6 mice, which was characterized by erythema, epidermal hyperplasia, hydroxyproline loss and ROS production in skin tissue. Riclin suppressed skin inflammation by the elevation of TNF-α, IL-6, IL-β, and alleviated UVB-induced immune cell up-regulation. Moreover, treatment with a Dectin-1 inhibitor reversed the protective effect of riclin in THP-1 cells.

Nanogel Containing Gamma-Oryzanol-Loaded Nanostructured Lipid Carriers and TiO2/MBBT: A Synergistic Nanotechnological Approach of Potent Natural Antioxidants and Nanosized UV Filters for Skin Protection

The human skin is a recurring target of external aggressions, such as UV radiation, leading to exacerbation of the aging process and the occurrence of skin diseases, such as cancer. Hence, preventive measures should be taken to protect it against these aggressions, consequently decreasing the chance of disease development. In the present study, a topical xanthan gum nanogel containing gamma-oryzanol-loaded nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) and nanosized UV filters TiO₂ and methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (MBBT) was developed to assess their synergistic potential in having multifunctional skin beneficial properties. The developed NLCs contained the natural-based solid lipids shea butter and beeswax, liquid lipid carrot seed oil, and the potent antioxidant gamma-oryzanol, with an optimum particle size for topical application (<150 nm), good homogeneity (PDI = 0.216), high zeta potential (-34.9 mV), suitable pH value (6), good physical stability, high encapsulation efficiency (90%), and controlled release. The final formulation, a nanogel containing the developed NLCs and the nano UV filters, showed high long-term storage stability and high photoprotection ability (SPF = 34) and resulted in no skin irritation or sensitization (rat model). Hence, the developed formulation showed good skin protection and compatibility, demonstrating promise as a new platform for the future generation of natural-based cosmeceuticals.

Effects of donkey milk on UVB-induced skin barrier damage and melanin pigmentation: A network pharmacology and experimental validation study

Introduction

Dairy products have long been regarded as a controversial nutrient for the skin. However, a clear demonstration of donkey milk (DM) on skincare is required.

Methods

In this study, spectrum and chemical component analyses were applied to DM. Then, the effects of DM on UVB-induced skin barrier damage and melanin pigmentation were first evaluated in vitro and in vivo. Cell survival, animal models, and expression of filaggrin (FLG) were determined to confirm the effect of DM on UVB-induced skin barrier damage. Melanogenesis and tyrosinase (TYR) activity were assessed after UVB irradiation to clarify the effect of DM on whitening activities. Further, a network pharmacology method was applied to study the interaction between DM ingredients and UVB-induced skin injury. Meanwhile, an analysis of the melanogenesis molecular target network was developed and validated to predict the melanogenesis regulators in DM.

Results

DM was rich in cholesterols, fatty acids, vitamins and amino acids. The results of evaluation of whitening activities in vitro and in vivo indicated that DM had a potent inhibitory effect on melanin synthesis. The results of effects of DM on UVB‑induced skin barrier damage indicated that DM inhibited UVB-induced injury and restored skin barrier function via up-regulation expression of FLG (filaggrin). The pharmacological network of DM showed that DM regulated steroid biosynthesis and fatty acid metabolism in keratinocytes and 64 melanin targets which the main contributing role of DM might target melanogenesis, cell adhesion molecules (CAMs), and Tumor necrosis factor (TNF) pathway.

Discussion

These results highlight the potential use of DM as a promising agent for whitening and anti-photoaging applications.

A Bioinspired Skin UV Filter with Broadband UV Protection, Photostability, and Resistance to Oxidative Damage

In recent years, sunscreens' adverse impacts on the environment and biology have gained wide attention. The improvement of sunscreen safety has become one of the major priorities in skin photoprotection research. It is an effective strategy to develop bionic photoprotective materials by simulating the photoprotective mechanism existing in nature. Inspired by the photoprotective mechanisms of skin and plant leaves, the bionic photoprotective material CS-SA-PDA nanosheet was developed using the free radical grafting method and Michael addition, with natural melanin analogue polydopamine (PDA) nanoparticles and plant sunscreen molecular sinapic acid (SA) as sun protection factors and natural polymer chitosan (CS) as the connecting arm. The results show that CS-SA-PDA can effectively shield UVB and UVA due to the possible synergistic effect between PDA and SA. The introduction of polymer CS significantly improved the photostability of SA and reduced the skin permeability of PDA nanoparticles. The CS-SA-PDA nanosheet can also effectively scavenge photoinduced free radicals. Furthermore, in vivo toxicity and anti-UV evaluations confirm that CS-SA-PDA has no skin irritation and is excellent against skin photodamage, which makes it an ideal skin photoprotective material.

Structural and UV-blocking properties of carboxymethyl cellulose sodium/CuO nanocomposite films

Nanoparticles have made a substantial contribution to the field of skincare products with UV filters in preserving human skin from sun damage. The current study aims to create new polymer nanocomposite filters for the efficient block of UV light that results from the stratospheric ozone layer loss. The casting approach was used to add various mass fractions of copper oxide nanoparticles (CuO-NPs) to a solution of carboxymethyl cellulose (CMC). The amorphous nature of CMC was revealed by XRD analysis, with the intensity of the typical peak of virgin polymer in the nanocomposite spectrum decreasing dramatically as the doping amount was increased. The FTIR spectra revealed the functional groups of CMC and the good interaction between the CMC chain and CuO-NPs. Optical experiments revealed that the optical transmittance of pure CMC was over 80%, whereas it dropped to 1% when CuO-NPs content was increased to 8 wt.%. Surprisingly, the inclusion of CuO-NPs considerably improved the UV blocking property of the films extended from the UV region (both UV-A: 320-400 nm and UV-B: 280-320 nm) to the visible region. Optical band gap of CMC decreased sharply with increasing CuO concentration. The tunable optical characteristics can be utilized in UV- blocking filters and various optoelectronics applications.

Revealing the relationship between molecular weight of lignin and its color, UV-protecting property

Lignin has great potential as a natural, green, and sustainable broad-spectrum sunscreen active ingredient. However, the coexistence of dark color and sunscreen properties hinders its application in cosmetics. In this study, we focus on the effects of the molecular weight of lignin on tis UV-protecting property and color in order to prepare lignin-based sunscreen with high performance. A prepared sunscreen containing low molecular weight lignin (F5, <1000 g/mol) exhibits good UV-protecting property (sun protection factor (SPF) = 7.14) and light color advantages (ΔE = 46.2). Moreover, a strong synergistic effect on UV-protecting property exists between low molecular weight lignin and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (EHMC), resulting in high SPF of F5@EHMC-based sunscreen (55.56). Additionally, added TiO2 can efficiently mitigate the dark color of lignin-based sunscreens due to prominent covering power of TiO2. Moreover, lignin-based sunscreens have good biocompatibility with HaCaT cells. This work is useful for understanding the mechanism of the UV-protecting property and dark color of lignin, and for designing an efficient and safe lignin-based sunscreen.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Tailoring Lignin-Based Spherical Particles as a Support for Lipase Immobilization

Lignin-based spherical particles have recently gained popularity due to their characteristic and the usage of biopolymeric material. In this study, lignin-based spherical particles were prepared using choline chloride at different pH values, ranging from 2 to 10. Their dispersive, microstructural, and physicochemical properties were studied by a variety of techniques, including scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and zeta potential analysis. The best results were obtained for the particles prepared at pH 5 and 7, which had a spherical shape without a tendency to form aggregates and agglomerates. The lignin-based spherical particles were used for the immobilization of lipase, a model enzyme capable of catalyzing a wide range of transformations. It was shown that the highest relative activity of immobilized lipase was obtained after 24 h of immobilization at 30 °C and pH 7, using 100 mg of the support. Moreover, the immobilized lipase exhibited enhanced stability under harsh process conditions, and demonstrated high reusability, up to 87% after 10 cycles, depending on the support used. In the future, the described approach to enzyme immobilization based on lignin spheres may play a significant role in the catalytic synthesis of organic and fine chemicals, with high utility value.

Recent Green Technologies in Natural Stilbenoids Production and Extraction: The Next Chapter in the Cosmetic Industry

Stilbenoids are well-known phytoalexins in the group of polyphenolic compounds. Because of their potent bioactivities, including antioxidant, antityrosinase, photoprotective, and antibacterial activities, stilbenoids are utilized as pharmaceutical active ingredient in cosmetic products. Thus, the demand for stilbenoids in the cosmetic industry is increasing. The main sources of stilbenoids are plants. Although plants are green and sustainable source materials, some of them do not allow a regular and constant supply due to seasonal and geographic reasons. Stilbenoids typically have been extracted by conventional organic solvent extraction, and then purified by separation techniques. This method is unfriendly to the environment and may deteriorate human health. Hence, the procedures called “green technologies” are focused on novel extraction methods and sustainable stilbenoids production by using biotechnology. In this review, the chemical structures together with the biosynthesis and current plant sources of resveratrol, oxyresveratrol, and piceatannol are described. Furthermore, recent natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) for green extraction as well as plant cell cultures for the production of those stilbene compounds are updated.

Response of Thymus lotocephalus In Vitro Cultures to Drought Stress and Role of Green Extracts in Cosmetics

The impact of drought stress induced by polyethylene glycol (PEG) on morphological, physiological, (bio)chemical, and biological characteristics of Thymus lotocephalus López and Morales shoot cultures have been investigated, as well as the potential of iron oxide nanoparticles, salicylic acid, and methyl jasmonate (MeJA) as alleviating drought stress agents. Results showed that PEG caused oxidative stress in a dose-dependent manner, raising H₂O₂ levels and reducing shoots’ growth, photosynthetic pigment contents, and phenolic compounds production, especially phenolic acids, including the major compound rosmarinic acid. Moreover, Fourier Transform Infrared Spectra analysis revealed that PEG treatment caused changes in shoots’ composition, enhancing terpenoids biosynthesis. PEG also decreased the biological activities (antioxidant, anti-tyrosinase, and photoprotective) of the eco-friendly extracts obtained with a Natural Deep Eutectic Solvent. MeJA was the most efficient agent in protecting cells from oxidative damage caused by drought, by improving the biosynthesis of phenolics, like methyl 6-O-galloyl-β-D-glucopyranoside and salvianolic acids, as well as improving the extracts’ antioxidant activity. Altogether, the obtained results demonstrated a negative impact of PEG on T. lotocephalus shoots and an effective role of MeJA as a mitigating agent of drought stress. Additionally, extracts showed a good potential to be used in the cosmetics industry as skincare products.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Selected Flavonoids to Target Melanoma: A Perspective in Nanoengineering Delivery Systems

Melanoma is a complex type of cancer that depends on several metabolic factors, while the currently used therapies are not always effective and have unwanted side effects. In this review, the main factors involved in the etiology of cutaneous carcinoma are highlighted, together with the main genes and proteins that regulate cancer invasion and metastization. The role of five selected flavonoids, namely, apigenin, epigallocatechin-3-gallate, kaempferol, naringenin, and silybin, in the modulating receptor tyrosine kinase (RTK) and Wnt pathways is reported with their relevance in the future design of drugs to mitigate and/or treat melanoma. However, as phenolic compounds have some difficulties in reaching the target site, the encapsulation of these compounds in nanoparticles is a promising strategy to promote improved physicochemical stabilization of the bioactives and achieve greater bioavailability. Scientific evidence is given about the beneficial effects of loading these flavonoids into selected nanoparticles for further exploitation in the treatment of melanoma.

7-Hydroxy-2-octenoic acid-ethyl ester mixture as an UV protectant secondary metabolite of an endolichenic fungus isolated from Menegazzia terebrata

Enodolichenic fungi (ELF) are considered a promising bio-resource since they produce a variety of novel secondary metabolites with bioactivities. Ultraviolet (UV) radiation in sunlight containing UVA and UVB can cause acute and chronic skin diseases, and the demand for UV protectants in sunscreens has been increasing. Such situations evoke the strong interest of researchers in seeking effective UV protectants from natural products. In this study, we obtained partially purified 7-hydroxy-2-octenoic acid-ethyl ester (7E) from the secondary metabolites of ELF000548, which has UVA absorption activity. The antioxidant properties were performed by in vitro tests. The superoxide anion scavenging activity and inhibition of linoleic acid peroxidation of the 7E mixture were higher than ascorbic acid (ASA) and butyl hydroxyl anisole (BHA). Furthermore, the compound recovered the damage caused by UVB irradiation and inhibited melanin synthesis. Additionally, the 7E mixture exhibited no cytotoxicity toward the mouse melanoma cell lines, B16F1 and B16F10, except for the normal cell line, HaCaT. In general, these results are the first report about bioactivities of 7E, and those demonstrated that this compound might be a UV protectant to go further study.

Application of Marine Microbial Natural Products in Cosmetics

As the market size of the cosmetics industry increases, the safety and effectiveness of new products face higher requirements. The marine environment selects for species of micro-organisms with metabolic pathways and adaptation mechanisms different from those of terrestrial organisms, resulting in their natural products exhibiting unique structures, high diversity, and significant biological activities. Natural products are usually safe and non-polluting. Therefore, considerable effort has been devoted to searching for cosmetic ingredients that are effective, safe, and natural for marine micro-organisms. However, marine micro-organisms can be difficult, or impossible, to culture because of their special environmental requirements. Metagenomics technology can help to solve this problem. Moreover, using marine species to produce more green and environmentally friendly products through biotransformation has become a new choice for cosmetic manufacturers. In this study, the natural products of marine micro-organisms are reviewed and evaluated with respect to various cosmetic applications.

Up-to-Date Overview of the Use of Natural Ingredients in Sunscreens

The photoprotective skincare segment is in high demand to meet consumer concerns on UV-induced skin damage, with a recent trend towards sunscreen alternatives with a natural origin. In this study, the use of natural ingredients, either from terrestrial or marine origin, in a panel of 444 sunscreen commercial formulations (2021) was analyzed. Ingredients from terrestrial organisms represent the large majority found in the analyzed sunscreen formulations (48%), whereas marine ingredients are present only in 13% of the analyzed products. A deeper analysis regarding the most prevalent families of ingredients from terrestrial and marine organisms used as top ingredients is also presented, as well as their mechanisms of action. This study provides an up-to-date overview of the sunscreen market regarding the use of natural ingredients, which is of relevance for scientists involved in the development of new sunscreens to identify opportunities for innovation.

UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects

The use of sunscreens is an established and recommended practice to protect skin from solar-induced damage. Around 30 UV filters can be used in sunscreen products in the European Union, which ought to follow the requirements of the regulation 1223/2009 to ensure their efficacy and safety for humans. Nevertheless, low photostability and putative toxicity for humans and environment have been reported for some UV filters. Particularly, the negative impact in marine organisms has recently raised concern on the scientific community. Therefore, it is important to develop new UV filters with improved safety profile and photostability. Over the last two decades, nearly 200 new compounds have revealed promising photoprotection properties. The explored compounds were obtained through different approaches, including exploration of natural sources, synthetic pathways, and nanotechnology. Almost 50 natural products and around 140 synthetic derivatives, such as benzimidazoles, benzotriazoles, hydroxycinnamic acids, xanthones, triazines, among others, have been studied aiming the discovery of novel, effective, and safer future photoprotective agents. Herein, we provide the reader with an overview about UV filters’ challenges and prospects, offering a forward-looking to the next-generation of UV filters.

HPLC-DAD phenolics screening and in vitro investigation of haemostatic, antidiabetic, antioxidant and photoprotective properties of Centaurea tougourensis Boiss. & Reut

Introduction

Traditional medicine has an important place in human history and this since antiquity. Indeed, during Egyptian and Chinese civilization era, many detailed manuscripts, describing the therapeutic effect of plants, were found which suggest that folk medicine is the basis of the actual medicine.

Objective

To investigate the phytochemical and pharmacological properties of the n-butanol (n-BuOH) and ethyl acetate (EA) extracts of the aerial part of Centaurea tougourensis.

Methods

The phytochemical evaluation was done based on HPLC-DAD approach. The antioxidant activity was determined by DPPH and cupric ion reducing antioxidant capacity (CUPRAC), while the hemostatic effect was performed using plasma recalcification time (PRT) method. The antidiabetic capacity was investigated by alpha-amylase inhibition assay and the photoprotective test was evaluated by the measurement of sun protection factor (SPF).

Results

13 phenolic compounds were identified in both extracts of C. tougourensis. These extracts showed antioxidant, haemostatic, antidiabetic and photoprotective properties with a dose-dependent manner. Amounts of n-BuOH activities were found higher, with a respective IC50 value of 0.72±0.07 μg/ml in DPPH assay, an A0.50 value lower than 3.125 μg/ml in CUPRAC assay besides a shortening rate percentage of coagulation (86.71%) in haemostatic assay, a moderate inhibition effect on alpha amylase activity with an IC50 value of (711.5±0.03 μg/ml) and a maximum sun protection factor of (56.035). These results were mostly found highly significant (p<0.001) when compared to respective standards.

Conclusion

This study demonstrated some pharmacological effects of C. tougourensis which suggests that our plant could be a good candidate to treat some illnesses related to oxidative stress, bleeding or skin cancer.

Unravelling the photoprotective effects of freshwater alga Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault against ultraviolet radiations

Several studies have suggested the direct relationship between skin complications, air pollution, and UV irradiation. UVB radiations cause various skin complications such as skin aging, skin inflammation, and skin cancer. The current study is designed to develop an ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA-loaded topical gel and to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. MAA was extracted from the Nostoc commune Vaucher ex Bornet et Flahault (N. commune) and characterized by HPLC-PDA (with a retention time 2.6 min), UV-Visible (absorption maximum 334 nm), and mass spectrometry (m/z 346.2) techniques. The methanolic (10%) solution of MAA (50-150 μl) was dissolved in propylene glycol and mixed with hydrated gel (1.5 % of carbopol 934) by using EDTA (0.3%). Eight (F1-F8) formulations were evaluated for their physico-chemical characters. F7 retained its physio-chemical characters for 90 days. Further selected formulation (F7) was evaluated for its gelling strength (GSg), gelling temperature (GT), melting temperature (MT), apparent viscosity (cp), molecular mass (MMS), pH, physical appearance, homogeneity, and spreading diameter (SD). The stability study of the fabricated gel formulation was done as per International Committee on Harmonization guidelines and sunscreen potential was determined by in vitro sunscreen UV method. Findings revealed that GSg (337 ± 1.7 g/cm²), GT (22.8 ± 0.2 °C), cp (71.1 ± 0.2), MMS (424.177 ± 0.7), pH (6.2 ± 0.04), and SD (56 ± 0.2). For in vitro sunscreen potential determination, different concentrations of F7 (50-150 μl) were prepared. Topical application of the F7 displayed UV-A/UV-B photoprotection with SPF 1.13 folds greater then marketed formulation (Lotus herbals UV screen gel). Based on these findings, it was concluded that methanolic extract derived from N. commune contains Porphyra-334 which can be potentially used as photo protective compound in several cosmetic preparations. Development of sunscreen gel from Nostoc commune The current investigation is designed to develop ultraviolet (UV) absorbing MAA (mycosporine amino acid)-loaded topical gel from Nostoc commune to evaluate its UVA and UVB screening potential. LCMS characterization of HPLC-PDA purified MAA from N. commune methanolic extract demonstrated a prominent ion peak of a protonated molecule ([M + H]⁺) at m/z 346.2 [M+H]+ value confirmed the presence of Porphyra-334. Porphyra-334 is a broad-spectrum sun-protective compound evidenced for its potential in blocking UVA and UVB (Bhatia et al. 2010). Prepared sunscreen formulations remain stable for prolonged period and provide broad-spectrum protection against harmful UV range.

Theoretical Studies on the Excited-State Decay Mechanism of Homomenthyl Salicylate in a Gas Phase and an Acetonitrile Solution

Here, we employ the CASPT2//CASSCF and QM(CASPT2//CASSCF)/MM approaches to explore the photochemical mechanism of homomenthyl salicylate (HMS) in vacuum and an acetonitrile solution. The results show that in both cases, the excited-state relaxation mainly involves a spectroscopically "bright" S₁(¹ππ*) state and the lower-lying T₁ and T₂ states. In the major relaxation pathway, the photoexcited S₁ keto system first undergoes an essentially barrierless excited-state intramolecular proton transfer (ESIPT) to generate the S₁ enol minimum, near which a favorable S₁/S₀ conical intersection decays the system to the S₀ state followed by a reverse ground-state intramolecular proton transfer (GSIPT) to repopulate the initial S₀ keto species. In the minor one, an S₁/T₂/T₁ three-state intersection in the keto region makes the T₁ state populated via direct and T₂-mediated intersystem crossing (ISC) processes. In the T₁ state, an ESIPT occurs, which is followed by ISC near a T₁/S₀ crossing point in the enol region to the S₀ state and finally back to the S₀ keto species. In addition, a T₁/S₀ crossing point near the T₁ keto minimum can also help the system decay to the S₀ keto species. However, small spin-orbit couplings between T₁ and S₀ at these T₁/S₀ crossing points make ISC to the S₀ state very slow and make the system trapped in the T₁ state for a while. The present work rationalizes not only the ultrafast excited-state decay dynamics of HMS but also its low quantum yield of phosphorescence at 77 K.

Photoprotection and Photostability of a New Lignin-Gelatin-Baccharis antioquensis-Based Hybrid Biomaterial

The aim of this study was to develop a new hybrid biomaterial that could photo-stabilize and improve the photoprotective capacity of a Baccharis antioquensis extract. Different combinations of lignin/gelatin/natural extract were applied to prepare hybrid biomaterial nanoparticles (NPs), which were then incorporated into an emulsion. The in vitro photoprotection and photostability were evaluated. The methanolic extract showed high phenolic content (646.4 ± 9.5 mg GAE/g dry extract) and a DPPH radical assay revealed that the antiradical capacity of the extract (0.13 to 0.05 g extract/mmol DPPH) was even better than that of BHT. The particle size of the hybrid biomaterial ranged from 100 to 255 nm; a polydispersity index (PdI) between 0.416 and 0.788 is suitable for topical use in dermocosmetic products. The loading capacity of the extract ranged from 27.0 to 44.5%, and the nanoparticles (NPs) showed electrostatic stability in accordance with the zeta potential value. We found that the formulation based on lignin: extract (1:1 ratio) and gelatin: lignin: extract (0.5:0.5:1 ratio) demonstrated photoprotection qualities with a sun protection factor (SPF) ranging from 9.4 to 22.6. In addition, all the hybrid NP-formulations were time-stable with %SPFeff and %UVAPFeff greater than 80% after exposure to 2 h of radiation. These results suggest that the hybrid biopolymer-natural extract improved the photoprotection and photostability properties, as well as the antiradical capacity, of the B. antioquensis extract, and may be useful for trapping high polyphenol content from natural extracts, with potential application in cosmeceutical formulations.

Promises of phytochemical based nano drug delivery systems in the management of cancer

Cancer is the leading cause of human disease and death worldwide, accounting for 7.6 million deaths per year and projected to reach 13.1 million by 2030. Many phytochemicals included in traditional medicine have been utilized in the management of cancer. Conventional chemotherapy is generally known to be the most effective treatment of metastatic cancer but these cancerous cells might grow resistant to numerous anticancer drugs over time that resulting in treatment failure. This review tried to portray the advancement in the anticancer and chemopreventive effects of several phytochemicals and some of its members encapsulated in the nano-based delivery system of the drug. It comprises the issue associated with limited use of each phytoconstituents in human cancer treatment are discussed, and the benefits of entrapment into nanocarriers are evaluated in terms of drug loading efficiency, nanocarrier size, release profile of the drug, and in vitro and/or in vivo research and treatment testing, such as cytotoxicity assays and cell inhibition/viability.

Natural Antioxidants from Plant Extracts in Skincare Cosmetics: Recent Applications, Challenges and Perspectives

In recent years, interest in the health effects of natural antioxidants has increased due to their safety and applicability in cosmetic formulation. Nevertheless, efficacy of natural antioxidants in vivo is less documented than their prooxidant properties in vivo. Plant extracts rich in vitamins, flavonoids, and phenolic compounds can induce oxidative damage by reacting with various biomolecules while also providing antioxidant properties. Because the biological activities of natural antioxidants differ, their effectiveness for slowing the aging process remains unclear. This review article focuses on the use of natural antioxidants in skincare and the possible mechanisms underlying their desired effect, along with recent applications in skincare formulation and their limitations.

From Sea to Skin: Is There a Future for Natural Photoprotectants?

In the last few decades, the thinning of the ozone layer due to increased atmospheric pollution has exacerbated the negative effects of excessive exposure to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR), and skin cancer has become a major public health concern. In order to prevent skin damage, public health advice mainly focuses on the use of sunscreens, along with wearing protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure during peak hours. Sunscreens present on the market are topical formulations that contain a number of different synthetic, organic, and inorganic UVR filters with different absorbance profiles, which, when combined, provide broad UVR spectrum protection. However, increased evidence suggests that some of these compounds cause subtle damage to marine ecosystems. One alternative may be the use of natural products that are produced in a wide range of marine species and are mainly thought to act as a defense against UVR-mediated damage. However, their potential for human photoprotection is largely under-investigated. In this review, attention has been placed on the molecular strategies adopted by marine organisms to counteract UVR-induced negative effects and we provide a broad portrayal of the recent literature concerning marine-derived natural products having potential as natural sunscreens/photoprotectants for human skin. Their chemical structure, UVR absorption properties, and their pleiotropic role as bioactive molecules are discussed. Most studies strongly suggest that these natural products could be promising for use in biocompatible sunscreens and may represent an alternative eco-friendly approach to protect humans against UV-induced skin damage.

Photoprotective and Inhibitory Activity of Tyrosinase in Extract and Fractions of Terminalia catappa L

BACKGROUND: Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation causes various skin damages. One of the most significant risks to skin occurrence is cancer and photoaging. Recent strategies for photoprotection have included incorporating natural sunscreens and antityrosinase. AIM: This study aimed to determine the sun protection factor (SPF) and inhibitory activity of tyrosinase of the extract and fractions of leaves of Terminalia catappa Linn. METHOD: The dried leaves were macerated with 96% ethanol and fractionated using n-hexane, ethyl acetate, and water. The extract and fractions were screened for their phytochemical profile, and tyrosinase inhibitory activity was evaluated and expressed as IC50. The photoprotective activity of extract and fractions were measured by a UV spectrophotometric. RESULTS: Among the tested samples, the ethyl acetate fraction showed ultraprotection on erythema transmission rate (%TE), sunblock on pigmentation transmission (%TP), and minimum protection on SPF. Ethyl acetate fraction showed the highest activity to inhibit tyrosinase (IC50 was 50.54±2.37 μg/mL). The phytochemical analysis of ethyl acetate fraction revealed the presence of phenolic and flavonoid compounds. CONCLUSION: This study’s findings revealed a higher tyrosinase inhibitor and sun protection capacity of ethyl acetate fraction of leaves of T. catappa and suitable to develop as a cosmetic agent.

Sunscreen Enhancement of Octyl Methoxycinnamate Microcapsules by Using Two Biopolymers as Wall Materials

Octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC) is widely used as a chemical sunscreen in sunscreen cosmetics. However, its direct contact with the skin would bring certain risks, such as skin photosensitive reaction. How to improve the effect of skin photodamage protection has become a current research hotspot. Encapsulating ultraviolet (UV) filters into microcapsules is an interesting method to increase the photostability of filters. In this study, sodium caseinate (SC) and arabic gum (GA) are chosen as wall materials to prepare synergistic sunscreen microcapsules by complex coacervation technology. A series of experiments are conducted to investigate the effects of pH, wall material concentration, and wall/core ratio on the formation of OMC microcapsules. The morphology, composition, and stability of OMC microcapsules are characterized by scanning electron microscopy (SEM), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR), and thermogravimetric analysis (TGA). The OMC microcapsule is uniform in size distribution, smooth in surface morphology, and has good thermal stability. The results show that the ultraviolet absorption of the OMC microcapsules is better than that of the uncoated OMC for the ultraviolet-B (280–320 nm). Moreover, the OMC microcapsule released 40% in 12 h, while OMC released 65%, but the sun protection factor (SPF) of the OMC microcapsule sunscreen is 18.75% higher than that of OMC. This phenomenon may be attributed to the hydrophobic interaction between SC and OMC and the electrostatic interaction between SC and GA.