Herbal extracts, lichens and biomolecules as natural photo-protection alternatives to synthetic UV filters. A systematic review

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Mechanistic studies on protective effects of total flavonoids from Ilex latifolia Thunb. on UVB-radiated human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) based on network pharmacology and molecular docking technique

The aim of the present research is to investigate anti-UVB radiation activity of total flavonoids from Ilex latifolia Thunb. (namely large-leaved Kuding tea) on human keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells) based on network pharmacology and molecular docking technique. Network pharmacology was used to screen target genes of active ingredients from Ilex latifolia Thunb. associated with UVB irradiation. The possible signaling pathways were analyzed by KEGG enrichment and verified by cellular experiments. Molecular docking was used to assess the affinity between the active ingredients and the core targets. The prediction of network pharmacology and molecular docking was identified by series experiment in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. Network pharmacology results showed that the active ingredients of Ilex latifolia Thunb. for anti-UVB irradiation were mainly flavonoids, and the possible signaling pathways were involved in PI3K-AKT, apoptosis, MAPKs, NF-κB, and JAK-STAT3. Molecular docking indicated key binding activity between AKT1-Glycitein, STAT3-Formononetin, CASP3-Formononetin, TNF-Kaempferol, CASP3-Luteolin, and AKT1-Quercetin. The total flavonoid pretreatment (0.25-1.0 mg/mL) down-regulated the expression of IL-6, IL-1β, and TNF-α in the cells determined by ELISA. The expression of phosphor PI3K, phosphor AKT, phosphor JAK, phosphor STAT3, phosphor JNK, and phosphor p38 MAPKs and COX-2 proteins in cytosolic and NF-κB p65 protein in nucleus were down-regulated and determined by western blot. It also protected UVB-irradiated cells from apoptosis by reducing apoptosis rate and down-regulating active-caspase 3. In a word, the total flavonoid treatment protected HaCaT cells from UVB injuries effectively, and the potential mechanism involves PI3K-AKT, JAK-STAT3, MAPK, and NF-κB pathway by anti-inflammatory and apoptosis action in cells. The mechanism in vivo experiment needs to be further confirmed in future.

Anthraquinones from Rhamnus alaternus L.: A Phytocosmetic Ingredient with Photoprotective and Antimelanogenesis Properties

The purpose of the present work was to develop a phytocosmetic sunscreen emulsion with antioxidant activity and an anti-melanogenic effect, containing an anthraquinone-enriched extract of Rhamnus alaternus (A.E.). Our findings demonstrated that A.E. decreased the levels of reactive oxygen species, DNA damage, and malondialdehyde induced by UVA in human keratinocytes and melanocytes. Furthermore, the calculated SPF value in vitro of the cream containing A.E. was 14.26±0.152. Later, it was shown that A.E. extract had an inhibitory effect on the amount of melanin. This extract could also reduce B16F10 intracellular tyrosinase activity. Besides, docking studies were carried out to provide a logical justification for the anti-tyrosinase potential. The findings showed that, A.E. may provide protection against UVA-induced oxidative stress and could be thought of as a viable treatment for hyperpigmentation disorders.

Photoprotective Effects of Processed Ginseng Leaf Administration against UVB-Induced Skin Damage in Hairless Mice

Although ginseng leaves contain a larger amount of ginsenosides than the roots, studies on the protective effect of oral administration of ginseng leaves against photoaging are lacking. Processed ginseng leaves (PGL) prepared by acid reaction to increase effective ginsenoside content showed higher levels of Rg3 (29.35 mg/g) and Rk1 (35.16 mg/g) than ginseng leaves (Rg3 (2.14 mg/g) and Rk1 (ND)), and ginsenosides Rg3 and Rk1 were evaluated as active ingredients that protected human keratinocytes against UVB-induced cell damage by increasing cell proliferation and decreasing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-2 and 9 secretion. Herein, the effect of oral PGL administration (50, 100, or 200 mg/kg, daily) against photoaging in HR-1 hairless mice was assessed by measuring wrinkle depth, epidermal thickness, and trans-epidermal water loss for 16 weeks. The PGL treatment group showed reduced skin wrinkles, inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression, and decreased IL-6 and cyclooxygenase-2 levels. These data suggest that oral PGL administration inhibits photoaging by inhibiting the expression of MMPs, which degrade collagen, and inhibiting cytokines, which induce inflammatory responses. These results reveal that ginseng leaves processed by acid reaction may serve as potential functional materials with anti-photoaging activities.

Characteristic Photoprotective Molecules from the Sphagnum World: A Solution-Phase Ultrafast Study of Sphagnic Acid

A natural UV-absorbing chromophore extracted from sphagnum mosses, sphagnic acid, is proposed as a new natural support to chemical UV filters for use in cosmetic applications. Sphagnic acid is structurally related to the cinnamate family of molecules, known for their strong UV absorption, efficient non-radiative decay, and antioxidant properties. In this study, transient electronic absorption spectroscopy is used, in conjunction with steady-state techniques, to model the photodynamics following photoexcitation of sphagnic acid in different solvent systems. Sphagnic acid was found in each system to relax with lifetimes of ~200 fs and ~1.5 ps before generating a cis-isomer photoproduct. This study helps to elucidate the photoprotective mechanism of a new potential natural support to sunscreens, from a unique plant source.

Exploring the Potential of Extracts from Sloanea medusula and S. calva: Formulating Two Skincare Gels with Antioxidant, Sun Protective Factor, and Anti-Candida albicans Activities

Sloanea is a plant genus, native to tropical regions, used in medicinal practices for its anti-inflammatory properties. This study aimed to determine the antioxidant activity, sun protective factor (SPF), and antifungal of extracts obtained from two species of Sloanea and to develop extract-based gels with antioxidants, photoprotective, and anti-Candida albicans effects. Ethanolic extracts from S. medusula and S. calva collected in Chocó, Colombia, were used for antioxidant activity and SPF determination using the DPPH assay and the Mansur equation, respectively. Extracts were characterized using HPLC-MS and used to prepare the gels. The viscosity of the extract-based gels was evaluated using an MCR92 rheometer. In addition, the anti-Candida activity of extracts against five yeasts and anti-C. albicans of gels were evaluated following the Clinical and Laboratory Standards Institute M27, 4th Edition. High DPPH radical scavenging activity (42.4% and 44.7%) and a high SPF value (32.5 and 35.4) were obtained for the extracts of S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Similarly, extract-based gels showed significant DPPH radical scavenging activity of 54.5% and 53.0% and maximum SPF values of 60 and 57. Extract from S. medusula showed an important antifungal activity against C. albicans (minimal inhibitory concentration (MIC) of 2 µg/mL). In contrast, S. calva extract was active against C. krusei, C. albicans (MIC of 2 µg/mL) and C. tropicalis (MIC of 4 µg/mL). Sloanea medusula gel (0.15%) exhibited an important C. albicans growth inhibition (98%), while with S. calva gel (0.3%) growth inhibition was slightly lower (76%). Polyphenolic and triterpenoid compounds were tentatively identified for S. medusula and S. calva, respectively. Both extracts can be considered promising sources for developing photoprotective gels to treat skin infections caused by C. albicans.

Saline extract of Portulaca elatior leaves with photoprotective and antioxidant activities does not show acute oral and dermal toxicity in mice

The present study aimed to evaluate saline extracts from the leaves (LE) and stem (SE) of Portulaca elatior in relation to their phytochemical composition and photoprotective and antioxidant effects, as well as to evaluate the toxicity of the leaf extract. The extracts were characterized for protein concentration and phenol and flavonoid contents, as well as for thin layer chromatography (TLC) and high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) profiles. Total antioxidant capacity and DPPH and ABTS+ scavenging activities were determined. In the photoprotective activity assay, the sun protection factor (SPF) was calculated. The toxicity evaluation of LE included in vitro hemolytic assay and in vivo oral and dermal acute toxicity assays in Swiss mice. LE showed the highest protein, phenol, and flavonoid (8.79 mg/mL, 323.46 mg GAE/g, and 101.96 QE/g, respectively). TLC revealed the presence of flavonoids, reducing sugars, terpenes, and steroids in both extracts. In HPLC profiles, LE contained flavonoids, while SE contained flavonoids and ellagic tannins. The antioxidant activity assays showed the lowest IC50 values ​(34.15-413.3 µg/mL) for LE, which presented relevant SPF (> 6) at 50 and 100 µg/mL. LE demonstrated low hemolytic capacity, and no signs of intoxication were observed in mice treated orally or topically at 1000 mg/kg. However, at 2000 mg/kg, an increase in the mean corpuscular volume of erythrocytes and a reduction in lymphocytes were observed; animals treated topically with 2000 mg/kg displayed scratching behavior during the first hour of observation and showed edema and erythema that regressed after six days. In conclusion, LE did not present acute oral or dermal toxicity in Swiss mice at a dose of 1000 mg/kg and showed slight toxicity in animals treated with 2000 mg/kg.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1007/s43188-022-00160-2.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Multifunctional Profiling of Moringa oleifera Leaf Extracts for Topical Application: A Comparative Study of Different Collection Time

This research investigated plant extracts as a source of potential new actives in the nutritional, cosmetic, and pharmaceutical fields. Moringa oleifera, which is extensively known for its nutritional properties, has been investigated in this work by preparation, characterization, and evaluation of the antioxidant (FRAP, DPPH, ORAC, and PCL test), antifungal, photoprotective, and cytotoxicity profile against human melanoma Colo38 cell line of two different extracts (hydroalcoholic and methanolic) and one infusion of dry leaves collected from Paraguay in four distinct harvest times (February, March, April, and May 2017). The outcomes of this study highlight Moringa oleifera as a potential ally to counteract skin aging and oxidative stress, as indicated by the favorable antioxidant profile of the extracts and infusions of Paraguay, which was, in all cases, superior to that provided by the same plant species when collected from Senegal. Moreover, some samples were more efficient in preventing the photodegradation of UVA filter butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Avobenzone) compared to commercial filters, thus suggesting an interesting future role as natural additives in sunscreens.

Photoprotective Efficacy of the Association of Rosmarinic Acid 0.1% with Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and Avobenzone

Innovative prototype sunscreens with reduced ultraviolet (UV) filters are required to achieve safer, more effective, and more environmentally friendly formulations. Rosmarinic acid (RA) is a phenolic antioxidant and potential candidate for multifunctional sunscreens. We used RA (0.1% w/w) in combination with avobenzone (2.5% and 5.0% w/w), a UVA filter, and ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (10.0% w/w), a UVB filter, to evaluate in vitro sun protection factor (SPF) and critical wavelength, photostability, and the in vivo SPF. RA, in vitro, improved the SPF of F2 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 2.5% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w) and F3 (ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 10.0% w/w + avobenzone 5.0% w/w + RA 0.1% w/w), which also presented broad-spectrum profiles; however, no expressive effects were observed for the critical wavelength (nm). By the in vivo trial, RA showed an increment in the F3 SPF value and maintained the F2 effectiveness, even when avobenzone was at 2.5%. Nonetheless, no increase in photostability was observed. Our findings suggest that incorporating natural molecules with antioxidant activities into sunscreens could decrease the proportion of conventional UV filters in the final product, with the advantage of providing other functional properties. Further investigation of higher RA concentrations, even from other sources, and other UV filter combinations could reveal important data for the development of multifunctional sunscreens.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Plant polyphenols as green sunscreen ingredients: A systematic review

BACKGROUND

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation has harmful effects on human skin. At present, synthetic and mineral types of sunscreens used to protect against these harmful damages have been reported to cause negative health and environmental effects. The studies involving characterization and isolation of phytoconstituents from natural botanical sources are important to discover their potential beneficial effects on sunscreen development AIM: This systematic review provides specific and compiled information on the photoprotective properties of natural botanical sources for sunscreen development. The efforts in research and innovation are essential to ensure the safety and sustainability of plant-based sunscreen products.

METHODS

In this review, a total of 35 articles were selected using the Scopus database based on the inclusion and exclusion criteria RESULT: The significant correlation between total phenolic content, total flavonoid content, antioxidant activities, and sun protection factor were shown in these studies which confirmed the potential benefits of natural plants in sunscreen development.

CONCLUSIONS

In addition, natural botanical sources also exhibit excellent anti-tyrosinase, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory activities. However, the biological activities of plants were dependent on the solvents used for extraction.

EVALUATION OF PLANT-BASED UV FILTERS POTENTIAL IN MODERN CONCEPT VIEW OF SKIN PHOTOPROTECTION

A therapeutic plants potential is based on the pharmacological effects due to their phytochemical profile. Today, scientific interest in botanicals is increasing as a result of recent research that looks at the prospect of using these raw materials for the cosmetic industry as a means to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV rays.

The aim of the study was to evaluate a potential of plant-based UV-filters in modern concept view of skin photoprotection.

Materials and methods. A systematic literature search was carried out using the electronic information arrays PubMed, Scopus, Google Scholar, eLibrary. The search depth was 10 years (the period from 2010 to 2021). The search was carried out by the following keywords: antioxidants, cosmetics, photoprotection, chemical composition, pharmacological action.

Results. In the paper, modern principles of skin photoprotection based on the use of chemical or physical UV-filters are considered and scientifically substantiated A trend for the use of plant-based materials and their components in the formulation of photoprotectors was notified. That is associated with a wide activity spectrum, the absence of a xenobiotic effect, and a high bioavailability of organic plant compounds.

Conclusion. The data analysis from scientific publications demonstrated a potential photoprotective activity of plant-based biologically active substances due to antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-radical effects. The results of the study are a theoretical basis for a further comprehensive experimental study of plant objects in order to obtain a pool of evidence in the field of photoprotection in in vivo experiments.

Dermal Penetration Studies of Potential Phenolic Compounds Ex Vivo and Their Antioxidant Activity In Vitro

Phenolic compounds with miscellaneous biological activities are an interesting component in dermatology and cosmetology practices. The aim of our study was to determine the phenolic compounds released from emulsion, emulgel, gel, ointment, and oleogel formulations penetration into human skin layers, both the epidermis and dermis, and estimate their antioxidant activity. The ex vivo penetration study was performed using Bronaugh type flow-through diffusion cells. Penetration studies revealed that, within 24 h, the chlorogenic acid released from the oleogel penetrated into skin layers to a depth of 2.0 ± 0.1 µg/mL in the epidermis and 1.5 ± 0.07 µg/mL in the dermis. The oleogel-released complex of phenolic compounds penetrating into epidermis showed the strongest DPPH free radical scavenging activity (281.8 ± 14.1 µM TE/L). The study estimated a strong positive correlation (r = 0.729) between the amount of quercetin penetrated into epidermis and the antioxidant activity detected in the epidermis extract. Plant based phenolic compounds demonstrated antioxidant activity and showed great permeability properties through the skin.

Salicin and Hederacoside C-Based Extracts and UV-Absorbers Co-Loaded into Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers with Promoted Skin Antiaging and Hydrating Efficacy

Conventional and herbal active principles can be combined in a beneficial harmony using their best features and compensating for the certain weaknesses of each. The study will answer the question, “how can willow bark extract (Wbe) or ivy leaf extract (Ile) influence the photoprotective, skin permeation and hydration properties of Bioactive Lipid Nanocarriers (BLN) loaded with UV-filters and selected herbals?”. BLN-Wbe/Ile-UV-filters were characterized for particle size, zeta potential, thermal behavior, entrapment efficiency and drug loading. The formulated BLN-hydrogels (HG) were subjected to in vitro release and permeation experiments. The in vitro determination of sun protection factors, as well as comparative in vitro photostability tests, rheology behavior and in vivo hydration status have been also considered for hydrogels containing BLN-Ile/Wbe-UV-filters. Photoprotection of BLN-HG against UVA rays was more pronounced as compared with the UVB (UVA-PF reached values of 30, while the maximum SPF value was 13). The in vitro irradiation study demonstrated the photostability of BLN-HG under UV exposure. A noteworthy cosmetic efficacy was detected by in vivo skin test (hydration effect reached 97% for the BLN-Wbe-UV-filters prepared with pomegranate oil). The research novelty, represented by the first-time co-optation of the active herbal extracts (Wbe and Ile) together with two synthetic filters in the same nanostructured delivery system, will provide appropriate scientific support for the cosmetic industry to design novel marketed formulations with improved quality and health benefices.

Photoprotective Agents Obtained from Aromatic Plants Grown in Colombia: Total Phenolic Content, Antioxidant Activity, and Assessment of Cytotoxic Potential in Cancer Cell Lines of Cymbopogon flexuosus L. and Tagetes lucida Cav. Essential Oils

Photoprotective agents obtained from plants provide benefits for the health of the skin. The present study aims to assess the total phenolic content (TPC) and in vitro UV-protective properties of twelve essential oils (EOs) from plants grown in Colombia and to evaluate the antioxidant and cytotoxic potential of two species identified as photoprotective potentials: Cymbopogon flexuosus and Tagetes lucida. The composition of EOs was studied by GC/MS. The cytotoxicity of both EOs was examined using an MTT assay, and an H2-DCFDA probe was employed to estimate the intracellular production of ROS in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells. Major constituents (≥10%) were neral, geranial, geranyl acetate in C. flexuosus and estragole in T. lucida. The TPC for C. flexuosus and T. lucida EOs were ≥10 mg GAE/g of byproduct. Both EOs showed photoprotective properties (SPFin vitro: 13−14), and long-wavelength UVA protection (λc > 370 nm). HepG2 and Calu-1 cells exposed to C. flexuosus exhibited antiproliferative activity (˂50%) at 125 µg/mL, while T. lucida was at 250 and 500 µg/mL. The IC50 values for C. flexuosus were 75 and 100 µg/mL in HepG2 and Calu-1 cells, respectively, whereas those for T. lucida were >250 µg/mL. These EOs achieved significant inhibitory effects (between 15.6 and 40.4%) against H2O2-induced oxidative stress. The results showed that EO compounds recognized as antioxidants could counteract the effects elicited by H2O2.

Criticisms in the Development of High-Protection and Broad-Spectrum “Natural/Organic” Certifiable Sunscreen

Attention to environmental issues has become increasingly important in recent years and also massively affects the cosmetics sector. In this context, sunscreens are questioned due to the proven or believed ecotoxicity of organic ultraviolet (UV) filters. This has pushed developers increasingly towards the use of inorganic filters, which can prove difficult to spread with low compliance. We faced the problem by proposing a rational approach based on the evaluation of the morphology of the inorganic material, as the real dimension does not often correspond to the characteristics declared by the producers because the material itself tends to aggregate. A combination of a specially selected inorganic filter is required to formulate Cosmetic Products with a Natural and Sustainable Connotation (CPCNS) standards.

Photoprotective Potential, Cytotoxicity, and UPLC-QTOF/MS Analysis on Bioactive Solvent Fractions of Moringa concanensis Nimmo Bark

Moringa concanensis Nimmo (Moringaceae) belongs to the same family of M. oleifera (miracle tree) and is a medicinal plant traditionally used by Indians to treat various ailments related to diabetes, tumours, inflammation, and blood pressure. Despite its versatility, the photoprotective properties of the plant remain unclear. This study revealed the UV-protective properties of its methanol bark extract and respective subfractions, chloroform, hexane, and ethyl acetate through total phenolic and flavonoid content (TPC & TFC), antioxidant (DPPH), sun protecting factor (SPF) value, and UV absorption spectra analysis. This study also investigated on the inhibitory effect of the tested samples on collagenases and elastase, which are well-known for their role in the skin. The cytotoxic and H2O2 scavenging properties of M. concanensis in 3T3-L1 cells were explored. Finally, the phytochemical profiling of the active fraction was conducted through UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis. Among the tested fractions, the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis showed the highest TPC (30.92 ± 0.71 mg GAE/DW), TFC (29.05 ± 0.09 mg QE/DW), and antioxidant properties (IC50-6.616 ± 1.90 μgml−1). Additionally, chloroform fraction demonstrated the highest SPF value, 10.46 at 200 μgml−1, compared to the other tested fractions. All the fractions showed a broad absorption spectrum covering both UVA and UVB ranges. The chloroform fraction of M. concanensis also showed collagenase (50%) and elastase (IC50-2.95 ± 1.23 μgml−1) inhibition properties similar to the positive control. Cytotoxic results revealed that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis prevented the H2O2-induced oxidative damage in 3T3-L1 cells even at lower concentrations (1.56 μgml−1). UPLC-QTOF/MS analysis tentatively identified the presence of bioactive flavonoids and phenolics such as astragalin, quercetin, isoquercetin, and caffeic acid in the active fraction of M. concanensis bark. Overall, it is suggested that the chloroform fraction of M. concanensis bark has the potency to be used as an active ingredient in sunscreen products.

Plant Secondary Metabolites against Skin Photodamage: Mexican Plants, a Potential Source of UV-Radiation Protectant Molecules

Human skin works as a barrier against the adverse effects of environmental agents, including ultraviolet radiation (UVR). Exposure to UVR is associated with a variety of harmful effects on the skin, and it is one of the most common health concerns. Solar UVR constitutes the major etiological factor in the development of cutaneous malignancy. However, more than 90% of skin cancer cases could be avoided with appropriate preventive measures such as regular sunscreen use. Plants, constantly irradiated by sunlight, are able to synthesize specialized molecules to fight against UVR damage. Phenolic compounds, alkaloids and carotenoids constitute the major plant secondary metabolism compounds with relevant UVR protection activities. Hence, plants are an important source of molecules used to avoid UVR damage, reduce photoaging and prevent skin cancers and related illnesses. Due to its significance, we reviewed the main plant secondary metabolites related to UVR protection and its reported mechanisms. In addition, we summarized the research in Mexican plants related to UV protection. We presented the most studied Mexican plants and the photoprotective molecules found in them. Additionally, we analyzed the studies conducted to elucidate the mechanism of photoprotection of those molecules and their potential use as ingredients in sunscreen formulas.

Protective effects of Quercus acuta Thunb. fruit extract against UVB-induced photoaging through ERK/AP-1 signaling modulation in human keratinocytes

Background

Quercus acuta Thunb. (Fagaceae) or Japanese evergreen oak is cultivated as an ornamental plant in South Korea, China, Japan, and Taiwan and used in traditional medicine. The acorn or fruit of Quercus acuta Thunb. (QAF) is the main ingredient of acorn jelly, a traditional food in Korea. Its leaf was recently shown to have potent xanthine oxidase inhibitory and anti-hyperuricemic activities; however, there have been no studies on the biological activity of QAF extracts. Solar ultraviolet light triggers photoaging of the skin, which increases the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and expression of matrix metalloproteinase (MMPs), and destroys collagen fibers, consequently inducing wrinkle formation. The aim of this study was to investigate the effect of water extracts of QAF against UVB-induced skin photoaging and to elucidate the underlying molecular mechanisms in human keratinocytes (HaCaT).

Methods

In this study, we used HPLC to identify the major active components of QAF water extracts. Anti-photoaging effects of QAF extracts were evaluated by analyzing ROS procollagen type I in UVB-irradiated HaCaT keratinocytes. Antiradical activity was determined using 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl and 2,20-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) assays. The expression of MMP-1 was tested by western blotting and ELISA kits. QAF effects on phosphorylation of the MAPK (p38, JNK, and ERK) pathway and transcription factor AP-1, which enhances the expression of MMPs, were analyzed by western blots.

Results

We identified two major active components in QAF water extracts, gallotannic acid and ellagic acid. The QAF aqueous extracts recovered UVB-induced cell toxicity and reduced oxidative stress by inhibiting intracellular ROS generation in HaCaT cells. QAF rescued UVB-induced collagen degradation by suppressing MMP-1 expression. The anti-photoaging activities of QAF were associated with the inhibition of UVB-induced phosphorylation of extracellular signal-regulated kinase (ERK) and activator protein 1 (AP-1). Our findings indicated that QAF prevents UVB-induced skin damage due to collagen degradation and MMP-1 activation via inactivation of the ERK/AP-1 signaling pathway. Overall, this study strongly suggests that QAF exerts anti-skin-aging effects and is a potential natural biomaterial that inhibits UVB-induced photoaging.

Conclusion

These results show that QAF water extract effectively prevents skin photoaging by enhancing collagen deposition and inhibiting MMP-1 via the ERK/AP-1 signaling pathway.

Supplementary Information

The online version contains supplementary material available at 10.1186/s12906-021-03473-1.

Photoprotective Effect of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart Essential Oil Against UVB-induced Photoaging in Mice

Photoaging refers to the extrinsic aging resulting from ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, which impacts skin appearance and is accompanied by the risk of skin carcinoma. Developing natural products as photoprotective agents is of great interest in cosmetic industry nowadays. The present study aimed at investigating the possible use of Artemisia sieversiana Ehrhart essential oil (AEO) for the prevention of photoaging induced by UVB. AEO was characterized by chamazulene, which accounted for 38.92% among total 51 identified compounds. In in vitro assays, AEO was found to be a moderate antioxidant and good UVB filter with photostability. A UVB-induced photoaging mice model was established with three AEO formulations (0.1%, 0.5% and 1.5%, w/w) topically applied prior to UVB irradiation. The activities of catalase, particularly superoxide dismutase of skin increased, while malondialdehyde content decreased in AEO groups as compared with model controls. The production of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1 and MMP-3) and depletion of hydroxyproline in skin were inhibited by AEO in a dose-dependent manner. Histological evaluation indicated that AEO decreased epidermal thickness, inflammatory cell infiltration, collagen degradation and elastin aberrance. These findings indicated that AEO could be a promising sunscreen agent in protecting the skin against photoaging.

UV filters used in sunscreens-A lack in current coral protection?

Ultraviolet (UV) filters used in sunscreens are among the anthropogenic substances that may enter the marine environment by both indirect (via wastewater) and direct pathways (leisure activities). Owing to the recent global decline in coral population, the impact of those UV filters on the coral health is currently under increased investigation. First results from scientists suggest that some of the filters may be toxic to various coral life stages, but an initial cross comparison with existing data from other freshwater organisms does not indicate that corals are specifically more susceptible to UV filters than other standard species. In fact, the available data leading to this conclusion is still vague and based on toxicity and bioaccumulation tests with corals, which are both still at the research stage. To facilitate a proper hazard assessment, robust experimental procedures for coral ecotoxicological studies are considered mandatory. In other words, additional steps should be taken to standardize and validate such new test systems to generate reliable results, which then can be used in regulatory decision making. Furthermore, to facilitate a more detailed and site-specific environmental risk assessment in the marine area, an application-based exposure scenario must be developed. Until these data and tools become available, environmental hazard and risk assessments may be carried out using existing data from freshwater organisms and existing tonnage-based exposure scenarios as a potential surrogate. Integr Environ Assess Manag 2021;17:926-939. © 2021 SETAC.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

Antioxidant and Cytoprotective Properties of Plant Extract from Dry Flowers as Functional Dyes for Cosmetic Products

Nowadays, natural dyes are expected by the cosmetic and food industries. In contrast to synthetic dyes, colorants derived from natural sources are more environmentally friendly and safer for human health. In this work, plant extracts from Gomphrena globasa L., Clitoria ternatea L., Carthamus tinctorius L., Punica granatum L. and Papaver rhoeas L. as the natural and functional dyes for the cosmetics industry were assessed. Cytotoxicity on keratinocyte and fibroblast cell lines was determined as well as antioxidant and anti-aging properties by determining their ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase enzymes. In addition, the composition of the extracts was determined. The obtained extracts were also applied in face cream formulation and color analyses were performed. It has been shown that the obtained extracts were characterized by no cytotoxicity and a high antioxidant potential. The extracts also show strong ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and moderate ability to inhibit elastase and provide effective and long-lasting hydration after their application on the skin. Application analyses showed that the extracts of P. rhoeas L., C. ternatea L. and C. tinctorius L. can be used as effective cosmetic dyes that allow for attainment of an intense and stable color during the storage of the product. The extracts of P. granatum L. and G. globasa L., despite their beneficial effects as active ingredients, did not work effectively as cosmetic dyes, because cosmetic emulsions with these extracts did not differ significantly in color from emulsions without the extract.

A resveratrol-loaded nanostructured lipid carrier hydrogel to enhance the anti-UV irradiation and anti-oxidant efficacy

Exposure to ultraviolet (UV) irradiation leads to the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) and DNA damage in skin tissue, which can further result in skin cancers. Using sunscreens is one of the most popular and the most effective method to resist UV irradiation. Resveratrol (RES) shows high absorbance in UV region and significant anti-oxidant effects. However, RES is easily degraded by UV irradiation, resulting in the decrease of bioactivity and the limitation of its application in the pharmaceutical preparations of skin. In this paper, a nanostructured lipid carrier gel loaded with RES (RES-NLC-gel) was prepared to improve the stability of RES and the accumulation of RES in the epidermis. Moreover, RES-NLC-gel could scavenge free radical effectively and protect human keratinocyte from UV irradiation by inhibiting the generation of ROS, decreasing the protein expression of cleaved caspase-3 and Bax and increasing the protein expression of Bcl-2. When mice skin was pretreated with RES-NLC-gel, there were less erythema, wrinkles and scabs on mice skin. The epidermal thickness of mice skins obviously reduced in dose-dependent manner. The activities of catalase (CAT), glutathione peroxidase (GPx) and superoxide dismutase (SOD) in mice skin tissue significantly increased. Thus, RES-NLC-gel exhibited an obvious anti-UV irradiation and anti-oxidant activity in vivo. RES-NLC-gel displayed great application potential in protecting skin from UV irradiation.

Cyanobacteria-From the Oceans to the Potential Biotechnological and Biomedical Applications

Cyanobacteria are photosynthetic prokaryotic organisms which represent a significant source of novel, bioactive, secondary metabolites, and they are also considered an abundant source of bioactive compounds/drugs, such as dolastatin, cryptophycin 1, curacin toyocamycin, phytoalexin, cyanovirin-N and phycocyanin. Some of these compounds have displayed promising results in successful Phase I, II, III and IV clinical trials. Additionally, the cyanobacterial compounds applied to medical research have demonstrated an exciting future with great potential to be developed into new medicines. Most of these compounds have exhibited strong pharmacological activities, including neurotoxicity, cytotoxicity and antiviral activity against HCMV, HSV-1, HHV-6 and HIV-1, so these metabolites could be promising candidates for COVID-19 treatment. Therefore, the effective large-scale production of natural marine products through synthesis is important for resolving the existing issues associated with chemical isolation, including small yields, and may be necessary to better investigate their biological activities. Herein, we highlight the total synthesized and stereochemical determinations of the cyanobacterial bioactive compounds. Furthermore, this review primarily focuses on the biotechnological applications of cyanobacteria, including applications as cosmetics, food supplements, and the nanobiotechnological applications of cyanobacterial bioactive compounds in potential medicinal applications for various human diseases are discussed.

Low Molecular Weight Oligosaccharide from Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer against UV-Mediated Apoptosis and Inhibits Tyrosinase Activity In Vitro and In Vivo

To find new anti-UV and whitening agents, 21 fractions isolated from three preparations of ginseng (white, red, and black ginseng) were screened, and their antioxidant effects on AAPH- or H₂O₂-induced damage were investigated. Furthermore, the protective effect against UV-mediated apoptosis and the tyrosinase inhibitory activity of the targeted fractions were evaluated in vitro and in a zebrafish model. Among all fractions, F10 from white ginseng was selected as having the strongest anti-UV and antimelanogenesis activities. This fraction exhibited excellent inhibitory effects on the pigmentation of zebrafish, which may be due to its potential tyrosinase inhibitory activity. Additionally, the chemical composition of F10 was evaluated by UPLC-MS and NMR instruments. The results indicated that F10 had a carbohydrate content of more than 76%, and the weight-average molecular weight was approximately 239 Da. Disaccharide sucrose was the main active compound in F10. These results suggest that F10 could be used as an ingredient for whitening cosmetics and regarded as an anti-UV filter in the future.

Phenolic Compounds from Leaves and Flowers of Hibiscus roseus: Potential Skin Cosmetic Applications of an Under-Investigated Species

The use of plant extracts in skin-care cosmetics is a modern trend due to their richness in polyphenols that act as anti-aging molecules. Hibiscus roseus is a perennial species naturalized in Italy, with beautiful soft pink flowers; its phenolic composition and biological activities have not been studied yet. The aim of this study was to characterize and quantify the phenolics and to evaluate the antioxidant, sun protection factor (SPF), and anti-collagenase activities of the ethanolic extracts of H. roseus leaves (HL) and flowers (HF). p-Coumaric, chlorogenic, and trans-ferulic acids derivatives as well as quercetin and kaempferol flavonoids were the main phenolic compounds detected. Catechin, epicatechin, kaempferol-3-O-rutinoside, kaempferol-3-O-glucoside, kaempferol-7-O-glucoside, tiliroside, oenin, and peonidin-3-O-glucoside were detected only in HF, while phloridzin was exclusive from HL, which also showed greater amounts of hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives. HF was richer in flavonoids and total phenolics, also exhibiting greater antioxidant capacity. The SPF and anti-collagenase activity of both extracts were similar and comparable to those of synthetic standards. The overall results demonstrate that H. roseus extracts are promising sources of bioactive phenolic compounds that could be potentially applied as anti-aging agents in skin-care cosmetics.

Ultraviolet blocking and antioxidant polyvinyl alcohol films incorporated with baicalin extraction from Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi

Baicalin, an active flavonoid ingredient of Scutellaria baicalensis Georgi, was extracted by heat reflux extraction and showed the same significance UV absorption property with standard baicalin. Active films were prepared from polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) containing baicalin extract by casting method. The effect of baicalin extracts on the UV-blocking, optical, antioxidant property, water vapor permeability, swelling and mechanical properties of the films were studied. UV–vis transmittance spectra showed that PVA films incorporated with baicalin extract blocked ultraviolet light range from 280–400 nm even with low concentration of baicalin (0.5 wt%) and maintain the high transparency in visible spectrum. The outstanding UV-blocking properties of PVA films incorporated with baicalin extract were also confirmed by Rhodamine B degradation. Baicalin conferred antioxidant properties to PVA films as determined by DPPH radical scavenging activity. Due to the interaction between hydroxy groups of baicalin and PVA molecule, water vapor permeability, swelling and elongation at break of the films were decreased accompanied with the increasing in tensile strength and Young’s modulus. FTIR reveal that the interaction between PVA molecules was significant changed by the introduction of baicalin. These results suggest that PVA film incorporated with baicalin extract can be used for the development of functional protective film.

Immobilization strategies of photolyases: Challenges and perspectives for DNA repairing application

Photolyases are enzymes that repair DNA damage caused by solar radiation. Due to their photorepair potential, photolyases added in topical creams and used in medical treatments has allowed to reverse skin damage and prevent the development of different diseases, including actinic keratosis, premature photoaging and cancer. For this reason, research has been oriented to the study of new photolyases performing in extreme environments, where high doses of UV radiation may be a key factor for these enzymes to have perfected their photorepair potential. Generally, the extracted enzymes are first encapsulated and then added to the topical creams to increase their stability. However, other well consolidated immobilization methods are interesting strategies to be studied that may improve the biocatalyst performance. This review aims to go through the different Antarctic organisms that have exhibited photoreactivation activity, explaining the main mechanisms of photolyase DNA photorepair. The challenges of immobilizing these enzymes on porous and nanostructured supports is also discussed. The comparison of the most reported immobilization methods with respect to the structure of photolyases show that both covalent and ionic immobilization methods produced an increase in their stability. Moreover, the use of nanosized materials as photolyase support would permit the incorporation of the biocatalyst into the target cell, which is a technological requirement that photolyase based biocatalysts must fulfill.

Cytogenetic and oxidative effects of three lichen extracts on human peripheral lymphocytes

In the present study, we investigated cytogenetic and oxidative [total antioxidant capacity (TAC), total oxidant status (TOS)] effects of methanol and water extracts of Cladonia chlorophaea (Flörke ex Sommerf.) Sprengel, Dermatocarpon miniatum (L.) W.Mann and Parmelia saxatilis (L.) Ach. on cultured human lymphocytes. In addition, different phenolic compounds in the extracts were quantified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) analysis. As a result of HPLC analysis, methanol extracts of all lichen species tested had higher phenolic compounds. Likewise, methanol extracts of each lichen increased TAC levels in lymphocytes more than water extracts. The TOS levels of the cells treated with different concentrations (1-100 mg/L) of the extracts decreased due to the increasing concentration of the extracts. Genotoxicity experiments revealed that the tested lichen extracts did not significantly increase (p > 0.05) the level of genotoxicity on human peripheral lymphocyte culture compared to the negative control group. The results showed that C. chlorophaea, D. miniatum and P. saxatilis lichens, which were found to be a rich source of phenolic compounds, might be of interest in the pharmaceutical and food industries.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review

BACKGROUND

The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance.

AIM AND METHODS

In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives.

RESULTS

Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF.

CONCLUSION

Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

Achillea millefolium L. and Achillea biebersteinii Afan. Hydroglycolic Extracts-Bioactive Ingredients for Cosmetic Use

Studies on hydroglycolic (HG) extracts of Achillea biebersteinii (AB)—a less investigated representative of the genus—were performed to determine their potential for cosmetic applications compared to the well-known Achillea millefolium (AM). Three types of water:polyethylene glycol extracts (1:1, 4:1, 6:1 v/v) were obtained from both species and analyzed for their composition by high performance liquid chromatography coupled with mass spectrometry (HPLC-ESI-Q-TOF-MS) and assayed for their biological activities. The study led to the identification of 11 metabolites from different natural product classes with the highest share corresponding to 5-caffeoylquinic acid, axillarin, coumaroylquinic acid isomers and 3-caffeoylquinic acid. The highest antiradical capacity in DPPH and ABTS scavenging assays was shown for HG 4:1 of AB and AM extracts. HG 1:1 extracts from both species inhibited monophenolase and diphenolase activity of tyrosinase, whereas AB HG 4:1 extract showed significant monophenolase inhibition. The highest sun protection factor (SPF) was determined for AM HG 4:1 extract, equal to 14.04 ± 0.17. The AB extracts were cytotoxic for both human keratinocytes HaCaT and A375 melanoma, however HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts were more cytotoxic for cancer than for noncancerous cells. In conclusion, AB HG 1:1 and 4:1 extracts display significant potential as active cosmetic ingredients.

A Review of the Potential Benefits of Plants Producing Berries in Skin Disorders

During the last 30 years, berries have gained great attention as functional food against several risk factors in chronic diseases. The number of related publications on Pubmed rose from 1000 items in 1990 to more than 11,000 in 2019. Despite the fact that a common and clear definition of "berries" is not shared among different scientific areas, the phytochemical pattern of these fruits is mainly characterized by anthocyanins, flavanols, flavonols, and tannins, which showed antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties in humans. Skin insults, like wounds, UV rays, and excessive inflammatory responses, may lead to chronic dermatological disorders, conditions often characterized by long-term treatments. The application of berries for skin protection is sustained by long traditional use, but many observations still require a clear pharmacological validation. This review summarizes the scientific evidence, published on EMBASE, MEDLINE, and Scholar, to identify extraction methods, way of administration, dose, and mechanism of action of berries for potential dermatological treatments. Promising in vitro and in vivo evidence of Punica granatum L. and Vitis vinifera L. supports wound healing and photoprotection, while Schisandra chinensis (Turcz.) Baill. and Vaccinium spp. showed clear immunomodulatory effects. Oral or topical administrations of these berries justify the evaluation of new translational studies to validate their efficacy in humans.

Algae Metabolites in Cosmeceutical: An Overview of Current Applications and Challenges

Cosmetics are widely used by people around the world to protect the skin from external stimuli. Consumer preference towards natural cosmetic products has increased as the synthetic cosmetic products caused adverse side effects and resulted in low absorption rate due to the chemicals' larger molecular size. The cosmetic industry uses the term "cosmeceutical", referring to a cosmetic product that is claimed to have medicinal or drug-like benefits. Marine algae have gained tremendous attention in cosmeceuticals. They are one of the richest marine resources considered safe and possessed negligible cytotoxicity effects on humans. Marine algae are rich in bioactive substances that have shown to exhibit strong benefits to the skin, particularly in overcoming rashes, pigmentation, aging, and cancer. The current review provides a detailed survey of the literature on cosmeceutical potentials and applications of algae as skin whitening, anti-aging, anticancer, antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial agents. The biological functions of algae and the underlying mechanisms of all these activities are included in this review. In addition, the challenges of using algae in cosmeceutical applications, such as the effectiveness of different extraction methods and processing, quality assurance, and regulations concerning extracts of algae in this sector were also discussed.

Characterization of Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. Extracts as Potential Multifunctional Antioxidant Ingredients for Skin Protecting Cosmetics

Skin is constantly exposed to harmful environmental factors, causing photo-oxidative stress in cells and leading to the development of health and aesthetic problems. Multifunctional ingredients of everyday skincare products, possessing antioxidant, UV-protecting, anti-hyperpigmentation, and skin cancer-preventing properties are in high demand. Due to the high content of polyphenolic compounds Cistus × incanus L. and Cistus ladanifer L. are potentially interesting sources of cosmetic ingredients with multiple skin protecting functions. In this study eight extracts from dried C. incanus and C. ladanifer-aerial parts were prepared using 60% (v/v) or 100% (v/v) methanol, on a magnetic stirrer or in Soxhlet apparatus, and compared for their content of phytochemicals and properties important for the skin protection. Extracts from C. incanus prepared in 60% (v/v) methanol contained the highest amount of polyphenolic compounds (331.82-347.27 mg GAE/g DW) and showed the most significant antioxidant activity (IC₅₀ = 3.81-4.05 µg/mL). C. incanus extracts were also effective tyrosinase inhibitors (30-70% inhibition at 100 µg/mL). Statistical correlation analysis revealed that epicatechin, epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), and myricitrin may be responsible for the antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitory potential of C. incanus extracts. All analyzed extracts were cytotoxic for human melanoma cells A375 (IC₅₀ = 57.80-199.01 µg/mL), with C. incanus extract prepared in 100% (v/v) methanol using Soxhlet extraction being the most effective. The extracts did not significantly impair the growth of noncancerous human keratinocytes HaCaT. C. incanus and C. ladanifer extracts possess also natural sun protecting activity (SPF 3.42-3.77 at 100 µg/mL), enhancing their anti-hyperpigmentation and anti-melanoma potential.

Sustainability Calculator: A Tool to Assess Sustainability in Cosmetic Products

Assessing sustainability is extremely necessary and appears as an industrial need and requirement in order to facilitate decision making and to evaluate the impacts of existing strategies, products and technologies. Thus, the main goal of this research was to develop a sustainability calculator based on the opinion of experts that work in the different branches of the cosmetic industry, in order to cover the entire life cycle of a cosmetic product. A detailed survey in which all the steps of a cosmetic product life cycle were addressed, was designed and applied to cosmetic professionals. The data obtained with the survey was statistically analysed for the positive and negative impacts of each parameter on sustainability. The analysed data allowed the creation of a Microsoft Excel tool that mirrors the experts’ opinion. A proof of concept was also designed in order to prove the usefulness of the tool. The results show that there are no raw materials and/or packaging materials and practices, that can be considered 100% sustainable. However, with the appropriate strategies, it is possible to drastically decrease the impacts of any type of cosmetic product on sustainability. This is a promising tool that includes the three dimensions of sustainability in a simple, fast, objective and interactive way for the user. Its application will facilitate the work of the formulators and reduce the time of analysis and decision.

Photoprotection of maqui berry against ultraviolet B-induced photodamage in vitro and in vivo

Maqui berry extracts could ameliorate oxidative stress, cellular DNA damage, and inflammation induced by UVB-irradiation in vitro and in vivo.

Historical and Current State of Dermatologic Care for Sexual and Gender Minority Populations

The lesbian, gay, bisexual, transgender, and queer or questioning/sexual and gender minority (LGBTQ/SGM) community is a growing population with unique lifestyles, sexual practices, beliefs, health issues, and concerns. Although significant advances have been achieved in recent years to establish better care for LGBTQ/SGM patients, they still face insurmountable stigmatization and health care inequality. Dermatologists play an important role in LGBTQ/SGM patients' well-being because they not only treat their skin conditions, but also help them achieve desirable physical characteristics. This article discusses historical perspectives and current state of LGBTQ/SGM dermatology and attempts to define directions for future research and improvement.

Sambucus nigra L. ameliorates UVB-induced photoaging and inflammatory response in human skin keratinocytes

Sambucus nigra L. (Elderberry) is widely used as a dietary supplement in functional food and possesses many pharmacological activities to prevent ailments, such as the colds and fever, diabetes and cancer. However, research on its skin anti-aging effect is still limited. Here, we evaluated the recovery effects of elderberry extract (EB) in UVB-irradiated human skin keratinocytes (HaCaTs) and investigated whether EB represents a potential therapeutic agent against skin photoaging and inflammation. In this study, EB showed good efficiency on scavenging free radicals and dose-dependently reduced reactive oxygen species (ROS) generation. EB notably decreased UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) expression and inflammatory cytokine secretion through the inhibition of mitogen-activated protein kinases/activator protein 1 (MAPK/AP-1) and nuclear factor-κB (NF-κB) signaling pathways, blocking extracellular matrix (ECM) degradation and inflammation in UVB-irradiated HaCaTs. In addition, EB improved nuclear factor E2-related factor 2/heme oxygenase-1 (Nrf2/HO-1) signaling to increase oxidative defense capacity, and enhanced transforming growth factor beta (TGF-β) signaling activation to promote procollagen type I synthesis, relieving UVB-induced skin cell damage. These results indicated that EB has the potential to ameliorate UVB-induced skin photoaging and inflammation.

A pilot study of the UVA-photoprotective potential of dehydrosilybin, isosilybin, silychristin, and silydianin on human dermal fibroblasts

The exposure of naked unprotected skin to solar radiation may result in numerous acute and chronic undesirable effects. Evidence suggests that silymarin, a standardized extract from Silybum marianum (L.) Gaertn. seeds, and its major component silybin suppress UVB-induced skin damage. Here, we aimed to investigate the UVA-protective effects of silymarin's less abundant flavonolignans, specifically isosilybin (ISB), silychristin (SC), silydianin (SD), and 2,3-dehydrosilybin (DHSB). Normal human dermal fibroblasts (NHDF) pre-treated for 1 h with flavonolignans were then exposed to UVA light using a solar simulator. Their effects on reactive oxygen species (ROS), carbonylated proteins and glutathione (GSH) level, caspase-3 activity, single-strand breaks' (SSBs) formation and protein level of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), heme oxygenase-1 (HO-1), and heat shock protein (HSP70) were evaluated. The most pronounced preventative potential was found for DHSB, a minor component of silymarin, and SC, the second most abundant flavonolignan in silymarin. They had significant effects on most of the studied parameters. Meanwhile, a photoprotective effect of SC was mostly found at double the concentration of DHSB. ISB and SD protected against GSH depletion, the generation of ROS, carbonylated proteins and SSBs, and caspase-3 activation, but had no significant effect on MMP-1, HO-1, or HSP70. In summary, DHSB and to a lesser extent other silymarin flavonolignans are potent UVA-protective compounds. However, due to the in vitro phototoxic potential of DHSB published elsewhere, further studies are needed to exclude phototoxicity for humans as well as to confirm our results on human skin ex vivo and in vivo.

New Vision in Photoprotection and Photorepair

Chronic exposure to solar radiation is associated with an increased incidence of skin cancer worldwide and more specifically with non-melanoma skin cancers and actinic keratosis. At the cellular level DNA damage is the main event following ultraviolet (UV) exposure. The kind of lesions produced depends on the wavelength and the energy profile of the radiation, with different photoproducts being formed as a result. Although endogenous DNA repair mechanisms are somewhat effective in repairing DNA, some DNA damage persists and can accumulate with chronic exposure. UV protection strategies, such as sunscreen use, are important in limiting further DNA damage. Several published studies have demonstrated the protective effect that regular use of sunscreen can have against the development of skin cancers. Newer options that aim to help repair damaged DNA may have an important role in reducing the incidence of chronic sun exposure-related photoaging and non-melanoma skin cancers. Photolyase, which is capable of repairing cyclobutane dimers formed as a result of DNA irradiation, is one such novel ingredient. In the first part of this paper we review the rationale for a combined treatment approach of photoprotection and photorepair with photolyase. In the second part we evaluate several published clinical studies, which suggest a beneficial effect in preventing new skin lesions in photodamaged skin. A strategy of photoprotection plus photorepair appears to be relevant for all persons with a high level of solar exposure and those at a higher risk for developing skin cancers.

Actinic keratosis - review for clinical practice

Actinic keratosis (AK) is a lesion that arises as a result of excessive exposure to solar radiation and appearing predominantly on Fitzpatrick phototype I and II skin. Given that some AKs evolve into squamous cell carcinoma, these lesions are considered premalignant in nature, occurring mostly in elderly men and immunosuppressed individuals chronically exposed to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. There are several mechanisms for the formation of AKs; among them are oxidative stress, immunosuppression, inflammation, altered proliferation and dysregulation of cell growth, impaired apoptosis, mutagenesis, and human papillomavirus (HPV). Through the understanding of these mechanisms, several treatments have emerged. Among the options for AK treatment, the most commonly used include 5-fluorouracil (5-FU), cryotherapy, diclofenac, photodynamic therapy (PDT), imiquimod (IQ), retinoids, and ingenol mebutate (IM). There have been recent advances in the treatment options that have seen the emergent use of newer agents such as resiquimod, betulinic acid, piroxicam, and dobesilate. The combination between therapies has presented relevant results with intention to reduce duration of therapy and side effects. All AK cases must be treated because of their propensity to transform into malignancy and further complicate treatment. In addition to medical or surgical care, education about sun exposure prevention remains the best and most cost-effective method for AK prevention. The objective of this article is to conduct a literature review of the clinical presentation of AK including advances in treatment options available.

The Extract of D. dasycarpus Ameliorates Oxazolone-Induced Skin Damage in Mice by Anti-Inflammatory and Antioxidant Mechanisms

Dictamni dasycarpus is a type of Chinese medicine made from the root bark of D. dasycarpus. It has been reported to show a wide spectrum of biological and pharmacological effects, for example, it has been used widely for the treatment of rheumatism, nettle rash, itching, jaundice, chronic hepatitis and skin diseases. In the current study, D. dasycarpus extract was investigated for its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, as well as its capability to alleviate oxazolone-induced skin damage in mice. The possible anti-inflammatory mechanism of D. dasycarpus extract against oxidative challenge was elucidated by measuring the levels of reactive oxygen species (ROS) production, interleukin-6, Tumor necrosis factor-α, NLRP3 (NACHT, LRR and PYD domains-containing protein 3 (NALP3)) inflammasome and interleukin-1β in HaCaT cells. D. dasycarpus extract did not affect cell viability in basal conditions. The extract significantly reduced oxazolone-induced epidermal swelling compared to untreated animal in the hairless albino mice (ICR mice) model. At the molecular level, Western blot assays indicated that the D. dasycarpus extract attenuated oxazolone-induced activation of apoptosis-associated speck-like protein containing CARD (ASC), procaspase-1, NF-κB and mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPKs) such as c-Jun N-terminal protein kinase (JNK) and p38. This study demonstrates that D. dasycarpus extract could protect skin cells against oxidative and inflammatory insult by modulating the intracellular levels of ROS, TNF-α, interleukin-1, interleukin-6, NLR family pyrin domain containing 3 (NLRP3) inflammasome generation, antioxidant enzyme activity and cell signaling pathways. D. dasycarpus extract also attenuated the expression of NF-κB in HaCaT keratinocytes and thereby effectively downregulated inflammatory responses in the skin. Furthermore, D. dasycarpus extract alleviated oxazolone-induced damage in mice. Our results suggest the potential application of D. dasycarpus extract in preventing inflammatory processes in dermatitis.