Recent Trends of Sunscreen Cosmetic: An Update Review

Naturally Derived Luminescent Material in Engineered Silk and Its Application as a Fluorescent Dye with a Large Stokes Shift and Sensing Capability

Silkworms have provided valuable byproducts (spanning from high-quality textiles to health supplements) to humans for millennia. Despite their importance in sericultural economy and biotechnology, manifold possibilities inherent in the myriad natural or artificially generated silk varieties have been underestimated. In this paper, we report that the Yeonnokjam silk strain, which shows light-green color, contains quercetin fluorochrome (QueF) in sericin, and QueF can be used as a fluorescence dye with a large Stokes shift and high sensitivity to environmental temperature and pH, thus functioning as an environmental sensing material. A Stokes shift exceeding 180 nm, a quantum efficiency of 1.28%, and a rapid fluorescence decay of 0.67 ns are obtained, which are influenced by solvent polarities. Moreover, QueF can be used as a UV blocker as well, and its low cytotoxicity and biocompatibility further suggest promising prospects for diverse application in cosmetics and medical materials in the future.

Cosmetic Products with Potential Photoprotective Effects Based on Natural Compounds Extracted from Waste of the Winemaking Industry

Grape marc is a by-product resulting from the winemaking industry that still contains beneficial compounds that can be valorized. Thus, we report here the possibility of using polyphenolic extracts of grape marc origin to obtain sun protection creams. The extractions were performed in ethanol and acetone solutions using pomace from different grape varieties (Merlot, Bläufrankisch, Fetească Neagră, Isabella) as a raw material. The obtained extracts were analyzed in order to determine the total phenolic content, the antioxidant activity, and the sun protection factor (SPF) via Mansur spectrophotometric assay. The best results were achieved using 70% ethanol in water as a solvent. The extracts with the highest potential photoprotective effects are from the Merlot variety (SPFspectrophotometric = 7.83 ± 0.76). The sunscreens were prepared using the 70% ethanolic extract of the Merlot variety evaporated to dryness, redissolved in either distilled water or ethanol. The SPF estimated in vitro via the COLIPA method showed values of 14.07 ± 1.50 and 11.46 ± 1.32 for the aqueous and ethanolic extracts, respectively, when working with a cream to polyphenolic extract a ratio of 1/1 (w/w). At the same time, the use of aqueous polyphenolic extracts ensures the better stability of creams compared with the ethanolic ones.

Advancements in sunscreen formulations: integrating polyphenolic nanocarriers and nanotechnology for enhanced UV protection

Sunscreens are essential in protecting the skin from harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation (UVR). These formulations, designed to absorb, block, or scatter UVR, offer vital protection against skin aging, sunburns, and the development of skin cancers like melanomas. However, some sunscreens, especially those containing organic/chemical compounds, can cause allergic reactions. To address this, researchers are extensively investigating formulations that incorporate plant extracts rich in polyphenols, such as flavonoids and carotenoids, which can be considered safer alternatives. Products derived from plants are commonly used in cosmetics to counteract skin aging due to their antioxidant activity that combat harmful free radicals. This review focuses on evaluating the advancements in chemical and natural sunscreens, exploring the integration of polyphenolic nanocarriers within sunscreen formulas, their interaction with UVR, and utilizing nanotechnology to enhance their effectiveness. An attempt has been made to highlight the concerns related to toxicity associated with their use and notable advancements in the regulatory aspects governing their utilization.

Phyto-cosmeceutical gel containing curcumin and quercetin loaded mixed micelles for improved anti-oxidant and photoprotective activity

Ultra Violet radiations induced skin damage and associated skin disorders are a widespread concern. The consequences of sun exposure include a plethora of dermal conditions like aging, solar urticaria, albinism and cancer. Sunscreens provide effective protection to skin from these damages. Besides FDA approved physical and chemical UV filters, phytoconstituents with their multi functionalities are emerging as frontrunners in Therapy of skin disorders. Objective of this study was to develop novel phyto-dermal gel (PDG) with dual action of sun protection and antioxidant potential using polymeric mixed micelles (PMMs) are nanocarriers. PMMs of Pluronic F127 and Pluronic F68 loaded with curcumin and quercetin were optimized by 32 factorial designs. Responses studied were vesicle size, SPF, entrapment efficiency of curcumin and quercetin and antioxidant activity. Droplet size ranged from 300 to 500 nm with PDI in between 0.248 and 0.584. Combination of curcumin and quercetin showed enhanced sun protection and antioxidant activity. Pluronics played a significant positive role in various parameters. In present studies vesicle size of factorial batches was found to be between 387 and 527 nm, and SPF was found to be between 18.86 and 28.32. Transmission electron microscopy revealed spherical morphology of micelles. Optimized micelles were incorporated into Carbopol 940. Optimized PDG was evaluated for pH, drug content, spreadability, rheology, syneresis, ex vivo permeation, and skin retention. Hysteresis loop in the rheogram suggested thixotropy of PDG. Syneresis for gels from day 0-30 days was found to be between 0% and 12.46% w/w. SPF of optimized PDG was 27±0.5. Optimized PDG showed no signs of erythema and edema on Wistar rats. PMMs thus effectively enhanced antioxidant and skin protective effect of curcumin and quercetin.

Prevalence of sunscreen use and sunburn in Greek athletes: a cross-sectional study

BACKGROUND

Athletes participating in outdoor sports are in a high-risk category for prolonged sun exposure. This study investigates whether swimmers and beach volleyball athletes adopt appropriate measures to protect their skin from the sun. Sunscreens play a key role in protecting the skin from solar radiation and preventing premature aging. The study assesses the frequency of sunscreen use and the incidence of sunburn among athletes.

METHODS

Athletes completed a self-administered questionnaire regarding their sun protection and exposure habits. Participants aged 9 to 60 years, engaged in swimming (N.=1047) and beach volleyball (N.=785), were included in this study.

RESULTS

In the group of swimmers (N.=858), a notable percentage never used sunscreen, and among those who did, (N.=137), natural products were predominantly applied. Gender differences revealed a significantly higher sunscreen usage (P<0.001) among female swimmers compared to males. Among beach volleyball athletes, sunscreen use was notably higher (90%), with 55.6% applying natural sunscreen and 44.4% opting for non-natural alternatives. Regarding the incidence of sunburn, the occurrence among both male and female swimmers was observed to be very low. Among those with sunburn, females exhibited a significantly higher frequency than males (P<0.001). Conversely, in beach volleyball athletes, sunburn affected a higher percentage of males (49.8%) than females (43.9%).

CONCLUSIONS

Sunscreen utilization is notably insufficient among athletes, reflecting a limited awareness of the potential risks associated with sun exposure, even though they frequently suffer from sunburn. This heightened susceptibility places them at an increased risk of developing skin lesions. Initiating and disseminating awareness campaigns that specifically emphasize the importance of sunscreen use within the outdoor sports community is imperative.

Skin Anti-Aging Potential through Whitening and Wrinkle Improvement Using Fermented Oil Derived from Hermetia illucens Larvae

As the aging population increases, so has interest among emerging seniors in anti-aging ingredients that enhance functionality by incorporating fermentation with natural materials. In this study, fermentation conditions for enhancing the functionality of Hermetia illucens larvae oil (HIO) were established, and its anti-aging potential was evaluated. First, the lipase activity and amount of lipid degradation products of the fermentation strains were measured in order to select Lactobacillus gasseri and Lactiplantibacillus plantarum as the strains with high fermentation ability. A fermentation period of 28 d and a fermentation method that uses only the strain culture medium were established by evaluating the fermentation degree after fermenting HIO with the selected strains. The whitening functionality test results of fermented HIO (FHIO) showed an increase of approximately 20% in extracellular tyrosinase inhibition activity compared with HIO. Additionally, within melanocytes, there was a 12% increase in tyrosinase inhibition activity and a 26% enhancement in melanin production inhibition ability. For wrinkle-improving functionality, it was observed that, for fibroblasts, there was a 10% increase in collagen production, a 9% increase in collagenase inhibition ability, and an 8% increase in elastase inhibition ability. Therefore, FHIO was confirmed to be an effective cosmetic raw material, with high functionality for anti-aging within the senior generation. This is achieved through increased whitening and wrinkle-improving functionality.

Physiological impact of personal care product constituents on non-target aquatic organisms

Personal care products (PCPs) are products used in cleaning, beautification, grooming, and personal hygiene. The rise in diversity, usage, and availability of PCPs has resulted in their higher accumulation in the environment. Thus, these constitute an emerging category of environmental contaminants due to the potential of its constituents (chemical and non-chemical) to induce various physiological effects even at lower concentrations (ng/L). For analyzing the impact of the PCPs constituents on the non-target organism about 300 article including research articles, review articles and guidelines were studied from 2000 to 2023. This review aims to firstly discuss the fate and accumulation of PCPs in the aquatic environment and organisms; secondly provides overview of environmental risks that are linked to PCPs; thirdly review the trends, current status of regulations and risks associated with PCPs and finally discuss the knowledge gaps and future perspectives for future research. The article discusses important constituents of PCPs such as antimicrobials, cleansing agents and disinfectants, fragrances, insect repellent, moisturizers, plasticizers, preservatives, surfactants, UV filters, and UV stabilizers. Each of them has been found to display certain toxic impact on the aquatic organisms especially the plasticizers and UV filters. These continuously and persistently release biologically active and inactive components which interferes with the physiological system of the non-target organism such as fish, corals, shrimps, bivalves, algae, etc. With a rise in the number of toxicity reports, concerns are being raised over the potential impacts of these contaminant on aquatic organism and humans. The rate of adoption of nanotechnology in PCPs is greater than the evaluation of the safety risk associated with the nano-additives. Hence, this review article presents the current state of knowledge on PCPs in aquatic ecosystems.

Recent developments in tuning the efficacy of different types of sunscreens

Due to recent global warming threats, the changes in the atmosphere have caused significant ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure, primarily emitted by the sun, which creates more awareness of photoprotection. Sunscreen development has been a convenient and crucial approach to photoprotection against ultraviolet radiation. Due to high demand, upgrading the quality of sunscreen products and certifying methods are necessary to guarantee the safety of commercial sunscreen products for use. Sunscreen products should have a satisfactory amount of sun protection factor (SPF), ultraviolet A protection factor, as well as the photostability of the sunscreens for them to be considered effective and safe for use. A rigorous study on the effectiveness of the sunscreen components and their safety standards is essential for the productive use and further improvement of the available sunscreen materials. This article summarizes the effects and issues, protective measures of sunscreen usage, and its components, mainly ultraviolet filters.

Silica nanoparticles: A review of their safety and current strategies to overcome biological barriers

Silica nanoparticles (SNP) have gained tremendous attention in the recent decades. They have been used in many different biomedical fields including diagnosis, biosensing and drug delivery. Medical uses of SNP for anti-cancer, anti-microbial and theranostic applications are especially prominent due to their exceptional performance to deliver many different small molecules and recently biologics (mRNA, siRNA, antigens, antibodies, proteins, and peptides) at targeted sites. The physical and chemical properties of SNP such as large specific surface area, tuneable particle size and porosity, excellent biodegradability and biocompatibility make them an ideal drug delivery and diagnostic platform. Based on the available data and the pre-clinical performance of SNP, recent interest has driven these innovative materials towards clinical application with many of the formulations already in Phase I and Phase II trials. Herein, the progress of SNP in biomedical field is reviewed, and their safety aspects are analysed. Importantly, we critically evaluate the key structural characteristics of SNP to overcome different biological barriers including the blood-brain barrier (BBB), skin, tumour barrier and mucosal barrier. Future directions, potential pathways, and target areas towards rapid clinical translation of SNP are also recommended.

Skincare potential of a sustainable postbiotic extract produced through sugarcane straw fermentation by Saccharomyces cerevisiae

Postbiotics are defined as a "preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host." They can be produced by fermentation, using culture media with glucose (carbon source), and lactic acid bacteria of the genus Lactobacillus, and/or yeast, mainly Saccharomyces cerevisiae as fermentative microorganisms. Postbiotics comprise different metabolites, and have important biological properties (antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, etc.), thus their cosmetic application should be considered. During this work, the postbiotics production was carried out by fermentation with sugarcane straw, as a source of carbon and phenolic compounds, and as a sustainable process to obtain bioactive extracts. For the production of postbiotics, a saccharification process was carried out with cellulase at 55°C for 24 h. Fermentation was performed sequentially after saccharification at 30°C, for 72 h, using S. cerevisiae. The cells-free extract was characterized regarding its composition, antioxidant activity, and skincare potential. Its use was safe at concentrations below ~20 mg mL-1 (extract's dry weight in deionized water) for keratinocytes and ~ 7.5 mg mL-1 for fibroblasts. It showed antioxidant activity, with ABTS IC50 of 1.88 mg mL-1 , and inhibited elastase and tyrosinase activities by 83.4% and 42.4%, respectively, at the maximum concentration tested (20 mg mL-1 ). In addition, it promoted the production of cytokeratin 14, and demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity at a concentration of 10 mg mL-1 . In the skin microbiota of human volunteers, the extract inhibited Cutibacterium acnes and the Malassezia genus. Shortly, postbiotics were successfully produced using sugarcane straw, and showed bioactive properties that potentiate their use in cosmetic/skincare products.

Ultrafast excited-state energy dissipation pathway of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB) via the nanoparticles

The organic UVA filter is popularized in sunscreen cosmetics due to the advantages of excellent light stability and high molar extinction coefficient. However, the poor water solubility of organic UV filters has been a common problem. Given that nanoparticles (NPs) can significantly improve the water solubility of organic chemicals. Meanwhile, the excited-state relaxation pathways of NPs might differ from their solution. Here, the NPs of diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate (DHHB), a popular organic UVA filter, were prepared by an advanced ultrasonic micro-flow reactor. The surfactant (sodium dodecyl sulfate) was selected as an effective stabilizer to prevent the self-aggregation of the NPs for DHHB. Femtosecond transient ultrafast spectroscopy (fs-TA) and theoretical calculations were utilized to trace and explain the excited-state evolution of DHHB in NPs suspension and its solution. The results reveal that the surfactant-stabilized NPs of DHHB reserve a similarly good performance of ultrafast excited-state relaxation. The stability characterization experiments demonstrate that the strategy of surfactant-stabilized NPs for sunscreen chemicals can maintain its stability and enhance the water solubility of DHHB compared with that of the solution phase. Therefore, the surfactant-stabilized NPs of organic UV filters are an effective method to improve water solubility and keep the stability from aggregation and photoexcitation.

Human-Hair-Derived Natural Particles as Multifunctional Sunscreen for Effective UV Protection

Excessive ultraviolet (UV) radiation can lead to a series of skin problems. Although commercial sunscreens can protect skin from UV-induced damage to an extent, the side effects caused by such products are still worrisome. Here, inspired by the natural photoprotection effect of human hair, we extracted the multifunctional particles from human hair as sunscreens for UV protection. Both in vitro and in vivo results indicate that hair-derived particles (HDPs) could effectively protect skin from UV radiation. Besides, HDPs retain the antioxidant capability of melanin in hair, which avoids UV-induced oxidative damage. In addition, the unique shape of HDPs can prevent them from penetrating into the skin, thus avoiding potential toxicity. Moreover, owing to their mesoporous structure, the particles can also be used as drug carriers. With the loading of octocrylene, the particles are more effective in blocking UV radiation. This study provides an ingenious tactic for the design and development of sunscreens from a natural substance.

Green-Engineered Barrier Creams with Montmorillonite-Chlorophyll Clays as Adsorbents for Benzene, Toluene, and Xylene

Dermal exposures to hazardous environmental chemicals in water can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration. Organic solvents, such as benzene, toluene, and xylene (BTX), have been detected in humans following skin exposure. In this study, novel barrier cream formulations (EVB™) engineered with either montmorillonite (CM and SM) or chlorophyll-amended montmorillonite (CMCH and SMCH) clays were tested for their binding efficacy for BTX mixtures in water. The physicochemical properties of all sorbents and barrier creams were characterized and were shown to be suitable for topical application. In vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB-SMCH was the most effective and favorable barrier for BTX, as supported by the high binding percentage (29-59% at 0.05 g and 0.1 g), stable binding at equilibrium, low desorption rates, and high binding affinity. Pseudo-second-order and the Freundlich models best fit the adsorption kinetics and isotherms, and the adsorption was an exothermic reaction. Ecotoxicological models using L. minor and H. vulgaris that were submersed in aqueous culture media showed that the inclusion of 0.05% and 0.2% EVB-SMCH reduced BTX concentration. This result was further supported by the significant and dose-dependent increase in multiple growth endpoints, including plant frond number, surface area, chlorophyll content, growth rate, inhibition rate, and hydra morphology. The in vitro adsorption results and in vivo plant and animal models indicated that green-engineered EVB-SMCH can be used as an effective barrier to bind BTX mixtures and interrupt their diffusion and dermal contact.

Development of multifunctional sunscreens: Evaluation of physico-mechanical and film-forming properties

The exposome consists of several factors such as solar radiation and pollution, which can provoke skin damage and lead to premature skin aging. Thus, the use of multifunctional sunscreens is critical in order to prevent this damage. In addition, film formation is very important to reach the expected SPF. Within this context, the objective of the present study was to develop and evaluate the in vivo SPF, sensory, physico-mechanical, and film-forming properties of sunscreens containing a biopolymer from Tara and red algae. A clinical study of the film-forming effect and of skin hydration was performed by instrumental measurements and by biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The SPF of both formulations, with or without the biopolymer, was 45.6. This result was 10.09% higher than expected. higher than expected. However, the sunscreen added to the biopolymer showed better sensory and texture properties, significantly increased skin hydration and reduced transepidermal water loss. The film-forming property was observed by the analysis of Reflectance Confocal Microscopy images 2, 4, and 6 h after formulation application, and this result was more pronounced for the sunscreen added to the biopolymer. Thus, the film-forming property of the biopolymer was important for prolonging the skin barrier function due to film formation and to obtain more effective and multifunctional sunscreens that provide longer protection.

A Novel Approach in Skin Care: By-Product Extracts as Natural UV Filters and an Alternative to Synthetic Ones

The cosmetic industry has been focusing on replacing synthetic ingredients with natural ones, taking advantage of their bioactive compounds. This work assessed the biological properties of onion peel (OP) and passion fruit peel (PFP) extracts in topical formulations as an alternative to synthetic antioxidants and UV filters. The extracts were characterized regarding their antioxidant capacity, antibacterial capacity and sun protection factor (SPF) value. Results revealed that the OP extract exhibited better results, which can result from the high concentrations of quercetin, as identified and quantified in HPLC analysis. Afterward, nine formulations of O/W creams were produced with minor changes in the quantity of additives: OP and PFP extract (natural antioxidants and UV filters), BHT (synthetic antioxidant) and oxybenzone (synthetic UV filter). The stability of the formulations was determined for 28 days; it was verified that they remained stable throughout the study period. The assays of the formulations' antioxidant capacity and SPF value revealed that OP and PFP extracts have some photoprotective properties and are excellent sources of antioxidants. As a result, they can be incorporated in daily moisturizers with SPF and sunscreens replacing and/or diminishing the quantities of synthetic ingredients, reducing their negative effects on human health and the environment.

Valorization of agri-food waste through the extraction of bioactive molecules. Prediction of their sunscreen action

The aim of this work was to identify the phenolic composition of 18 different vegetable residues and to determine the relationship between their phenolic compounds, antioxidant capacity and sun protection factor. For this purpose, samples of agri-food residues were analyzed to quantify their antioxidant capacity, total polyphenol and flavonoid content, sun protection factor and individual phenolic compounds through HPLC-DAD-FLD. Among the different phenolic compounds found in the extracts, the phenolic acids, especially caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, p-coumaric acid and protocatechuic acid were the ones that have been most frequently identified, and, therefore, are present in a wide range of extracts. Black chai tea, lemon ginger tea and peanut extracts were the most antioxidant and photoprotective extracts. Phenolic compounds in the extracts have been found to contribute to their antioxidant activity and are closely correlated to their photoprotective capacity. A regression model that allows predicting the photoprotective capacity of any extract based on its total phenol content has been developed as a tool to determine the most suitable industrial application for each vegetable extract.

Process Optimization of Phytoantioxidant and Photoprotective Compounds from Carob Pods (Ceratonia siliqua L.) Using Ultrasonic Assisted Extraction Method

The current study first describes the extraction of phytoantioxidant polyphenols from Carob byproducts (pods) using maceration and heating-assisted extraction as traditional methods and ultrasonic-assisted extraction (UAE) as an innovative method to determine the most efficient extraction process in terms of four targeted responses: total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant activities (TAC and DPPH), and photoprotective properties as measured by the sun protection factor (SPF). Second, we used response surface methodology (RSM) with a central composite rotatable design (CCDR) approach to investigate the influence of process variables (extraction time, extraction temperature, and solvent concentration) on UAE, which was found to be the most effective extraction technique in our study. Carob byproduct extracts had a TPC ranging from 6.21 to 21.92 mg GAE/g dw, a TAC ranging from 22.00 to 49.30 mg AAE/g dw, DPPH scavenging activity ranging from 56.35 to 90.50%, and SPF values ranging from 8.62 to 22.37. The optimal UAE conditions for maximum TPC, TAC, DPPH, and SPF responses were determined to be 38.90% ethanol, 53.90 °C, and 50.92 min. Using Carob as a source for sustainable and bioactive products in conjunction with optimized UAE is a promising contribution to the cosmetic industry that will help to strengthen the concept of environmentally-friendly "green chemistry". Given that Carob pulp or seeds are considered food byproducts, the research presented here encourages the use of these agri-food waste materials in cosmetics.

Protective effects of volatile components of aged garlic extract against ultraviolet B-induced apoptosis in human skin fibroblasts

Aged garlic extract (AGE) has been shown to protect the skin against UV-induced damage, but effects of its volatile components remain unknown. We investigated the effects of the volatile fraction of AGE on the responses of cultured skin fibroblasts subjected to UV-B irradiation. UV-B irradiation (20 mJ/cm² ) reduced the cell viability to 55% of control. The nonvolatile and volatile fractions of AGE inhibited the UV-B-induced reduction of cell viability; the cell viabilities were 100% and 73%, respectively. The volatile fraction inhibited the UV-B-induced increase in apoptotic cell death by 28%. The volatile fraction also inhibited the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinases (MAPKs) induced by UV-B irradiation. GC-MS analysis revealed that a large number of volatile compounds were generated during aging of garlic. These results suggest that the volatile fraction of AGE has protective effects against the UV-B-induced death of skin fibroblasts, and that this effect may partly be due to an inhibition of apoptosis via the downregulation of MAPK signaling. The volatile compounds of AGE may have beneficial applications for skin health. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS: In this study, we investigated the effects of AGE against cell damage of UV-B-irradiated human skin fibroblasts. The aging process of garlic produced characteristic volatile compounds that have significant protective effects against UV-induced cell damage. Our results demonstrated that the aging process is a suitable method to develop added value in garlic extracts to improve skin health.

Environmental impacts due to the use of sunscreen products: a mini-review

Sunscreen use has increased in recent years, as sunscreen products minimize the damaging effects of solar radiation. Active ingredients called ultraviolet (UV) filters or UV agents, either organic or inorganic, responsible for defending skin tissue against harmful UV rays, are incorporated in sunscreen formulations. UV agents have a serious impact on many members of bio communities, and they are transferred to the environment either directly or indirectly. Many organic UV filters are found to be accumulated in marine environments because of high values of the octanol/water partition coefficient. However, due to the fact that UV agents are not stable in water, unwanted by-products may be formed. Experimental studies or field observations have shown that organic UV filters tend to bioaccumulate in various aquatic animals, such as corals, algae, arthropods, mollusks, echinoderms, marine vertebrates. This review was conducted in order to understand the effects of UV agents on both the environment and marine biota. In vivo and in vitro studies of UV filters show a wide range of adverse effects on the environment and exposed organisms. Coral bleaching receives considerable attention, but the scientific data identify potential toxicities of endocrine, neurologic, neoplastic and developmental pathways. However, more controlled environmental studies and long-term human use data are limited. Several jurisdictions have prohibited specific UV filters, but this does not adequately address the dichotomy of the benefits of photoprotection vs lack of eco-friendly, safe, and approved alternatives.

Current postbiotics in the cosmetic market-an update and development opportunities

Postbiotics are a new class of health-promoting molecules that derive from probiotics. These new cosmetic and dermatological ingredients are defined as a 'preparation of inanimate microorganisms and/or their components that confers a health benefit on the host'. This review focuses on what is presently known of these compounds, the benefits of using them, the main postbiotics products available in the market and players, the production key trends and available production methods. The main advantages identified for the use of postbiotics are related to their higher specificity of action on resident microbiota as of interaction with cells of the host compared to probiotics. Postbiotics can be produced/obtained especially through fermentative processes, but most of companies industrial processes are patented. Most of these compounds are usually derived from lactic acid bacteria, Lactobacillus genera and/or yeasts, especially Saccharomyces cerevisiae. Postbiotics go from metabolites like teichoic acids to polysaccharides among others and exhibit important biological properties such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-proliferative and immunomodulatory-the reason why their use in cosmetic formulations must be considered. Besides that, when compared to probiotics, postbiotics have longer shelf life and greater safety and do not require viability in the topical formulation which turns them into an innovative approach within the cosmetic ingredients market. The main players are companies that operate in several areas, such as the chemical industry, food innovation, pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries, and the critical trends for production of these compounds include energy efficiency, emission-free mobility, conservation of finite resources and renewable raw material utilization. KEY POINTS: • Postbiotics are mainly derived from lactic acid bacteria and S. cerevisiae. • Postbiotics exhibit several biological properties. • Postbiotics present several advantages over probiotics.

Valorization of the Photo-Protective Potential of the Phytochemically Standardized Olive (Olea europaea L.) Leaf Extract in UVA-Irradiated Human Skin Fibroblasts

Leaves of Olea europaea are a by-product of the olive oil industry and a dietary supplement with acknowledged antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity but underestimated photoprotective potential. We investigated the protective effects of the LC-PDA-MS/MS standardized ethanol-water extract of olive leaves (OLE), containing 26.2% total phenols and 22.2% oleuropein, with underlying mechanisms against the UVA-induced oxidative damage in human dermal fibroblasts. Hs68 cells were pre-treated (24 h) with OLE (2.5-25 μg/mL) or the reference antioxidants, quercetin and ascorbic acid (25 μg/mL), followed by irradiation (8 J/cm²). OLE significantly reduced the UVA-induced DNA damage and reactive oxygen species (ROS) overproduction and increased the thioredoxin reductase (TrxR) expression and post-radiation viability of fibroblasts by inhibiting their apoptosis. Both intrinsic and extrinsic apoptotic signaling pathways appeared to be inhibited by OLE, but the activity of caspase 9 was the most reduced. We hypothesized that the TrxR up-regulation by OLE could have prevented the UVA-induced apoptosis of Hs68 cells. In addition, a significant decrease in UVA-induced secretion levels of tumor necrosis factor (TNF-α) and interleukin-2 (IL-2) was shown in human lymphocyte culture in response to OLE treatment. In summary, our results support the beneficial effect of OLE in an in vitro model and indicate its great potential for use in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry as a topical photoprotective, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory agent.

Pharmaceutical and personal care products as emerging environmental contaminants in Nigeria: A systematic review

The increasingly broad and massive use of pharmaceuticals (human, veterinary) and personal care products in industrially developing nations makes their uncontrolled environmental and ecological impact a true concern. Focusing on Nigeria, this systematic literature search (databases: PubMed, ScienceDirect, Google Scholar, EMBASE, Scopus, Cochrane library and African Journals Online) aims to increase visibility to the issue. Among 275 articles identified, 7 were included in this systematic review. Studies indicated the presence of 11 personal care products (15.94 %) and 58 pharmaceutical products (84.06 %) in surface and ground water, leachates, runoffs, sludge, and sediments. The 42.86% (3/7) of reviewed studies reported 17 analgesics; 71.42 % (5/7) reported 16 antibiotics; 28.57 % (2/7) reported 5 lipid lowering drugs; 28.57% reported anti-malaria and fungal drugs; 14.29 % (1/7) reported estrogen drugs. Different studies report on sunscreen products, hormone, phytosterol, insect repellent, and β1 receptor. Gemfibrozil (<4-730 ng/L), Triclosan (55.1-297.7 ng/L), Triclocarban (35.6-232.4 ng/L), Trimethoprim (<1-388 ng/L) and Tramadol (<2-883 ng/L) had the highest range of concentrations. Findings confirm the need of i) legislation for environmental monitoring, including biota, ii) toxicological profiling of new market products, and iii) sensitization on appropriate use and disposal of pharmaceuticals and personal care products.

Evaluation of an efficient and skin-adherent semisolid sunscreen nanoformulation

INTRODUCTION

Sunscreens are substances applied on the skin surface to protect the skin from the harmful effects of UV light. Nanoparticles can increase the retention time of the sunscreen on the skin surface and its efficacy, by acting as physical barriers. The present investigation aimed to prepare and characterize benzophenone-3-loaded lipid core nanocapsules coated with chitosan (CH-LNC) and, after obtaining a suitable semisolid formulation for skin application, to evaluate the influence of the nanocapsules chitosan-coating on the skin adhesion and photoprotective effect of the sunscreen.

METHODS

CH-LNC were obtained by the interfacial deposition of pre-formed polymer. The semisolid formulation was obtained using hydroxyethyl cellulose as gel-forming polymer. Skin adhesion experiments were performed by keeping skin membranes with formulation under water at 32oC for up to 60 minutes. Photoprotective effect was analyzed by the capacity of the formulations to protect a photo unstable substance (resveratrol) from degradation under UV light.

RESULTS

CH-LNC presented size of around 150nm, with low polydispersity, positive zeta potential, due to chitosan, and benzophenone-3 encapsulation efficiency of close to 100% (3mg/mL). The proposed gel presented suitable consistence and pH for skin application. Although coated and uncoated LNC increased benzonphenone-3 skin adhesion after 10 minutes of water immersion, only the nanoparticles coated with chitosan were able to do so after 60 minutes. CH-LNC increased the photoprotection of the sunscreen under UVA and UVB light after 60 minutes of exposure, probably due to the bioadhesion and film-forming properties of chitosan.

CONCLUSION

The chitosan coating of benzophenone-3-loaded LNC increased the skin adhesion and the photoprotective effect of the sunscreen.

Effects of Structure on the Solubility of UV Filters

In recent years, one of the most concerning topics in healthcare is the constant exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light being the cause of numerous skin diseases. This issue created a keen interest in sun-care cosmetics, and particularly in sunscreens, since it has been proven to significantly reduce human skin disorders. Usually, sunscreens are formulated as emulsions with organic UV-absorbers dissolved in the oil phase; thus, the solubility of these UV-filters in the emollients is crucial. In this work we expose the properties of different emollients, correlating the chemical structure with the ability to dissolve organic UV-filters.

Inclusion of Montmorillonite Clays in Environmental Barrier Formulations to Reduce Skin Exposure to Water-Soluble Chemicals from Polluted Water

Dermal exposures to environmental chemicals can significantly affect the morphology and integrity of skin structure, leading to enhanced and deeper penetration of toxic chemicals. This problem can be magnified during disasters where hazardous water-soluble chemicals are readily mobilized and redistributed in the environment, threatening the health of vulnerable populations at the impacted sites. To address this issue, barrier emulsion formulations (EVB) have been developed consisting of materials that are generally recognized as safe, with the inclusion of medical grade carbon or calcium and sodium montmorillonite clays (CM and SM). In this study, the adsorption efficacy of five highly toxic and commonly occurring contaminants of concern, including important hydrophilic pesticides (glyphosate, acrolein, and paraquat) and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances were characterized. EVB showed properties such as high stability, spreadability, low rupture strength, and neutral pH that were suitable for topical application on the skin. The in vitro adsorption results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM were effective, economically feasible, and favorable barrier formulations for hazardous chemical adsorption, as supported by high binding percentage, low desorption rates for an extended period of time, and high binding affinity. A pseudo-second-order kinetic model was best fitted for the adsorption process and the Freundlich model fit the adsorption isotherms with negative enthalpy values indicating spontaneous reactions that involve physisorption. The study, with varying temperatures and pH, showed that the adsorption reaction was exothermic and persistent. The results indicated that EVB and EVB-SM can be used as effective barriers to block dermal contact from water-soluble toxic pollutants during disasters.

Nanocarriers as Active Ingredients Enhancers in the Cosmetic Industry-The European and North America Regulation Challenges

“Flawless skin is the most universally desired human feature” is an iconic statement by Desmond Morris. Skin indicates one´s health and is so important that it affects a person’s emotional and psychological behavior, these facts having propelled the development of the cosmetics industry. It is estimated that in 2023, this industry will achieve more than 800 billion dollars. This boost is due to the development of new cosmetic formulations based on nanotechnology. Nanocarriers have been able to solve problems related to active ingredients regarding their solubility, poor stability, and release. Even though nanocarriers have evident benefits, they also present some problems related to the high cost, low shelf life, and toxicity. Regulation and legislation are two controversial topics regarding the use of nanotechnology in the field of cosmetics. In this area, the U.S. FDA has taken the lead and recommended several biosafety studies and post-market safety evaluations. The lack of a global definition that identifies nanomaterials as a cosmetic ingredient is a hindrance to the development of global legislation. In the EU, the legislation regarding the biosafety of nanomaterials in cosmetics is stricter. “The cost is not the only important issue, safety and the application of alternative testing methods for toxicity are of crucial importance as well”.

Photoprotection and skin irritation effect of hydrogels containing hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis: A natural pathway against skin cancer

The use of natural products in sunscreen formulations as a prophylactic measure against skin cancer is receiving special attention attributed to the photoprotective and antioxidant properties of their chemical components. In this work, we describe the development of topical hydrogel formulations containing hydroalcoholic extract of red propolis (HERP), and the evaluation of the dermal sensitizing effect of the developed products. Sunscreen formulations composed of HERP in different concentrations (1.5, 2.5 or 3.5% w/w) alone or in combination with a chemical (octyl methoxycinnamate) and/or physical (titanium dioxide) filters were developed using poloxamer 407 as gel basis. The preliminary and accelerated stability tests, texture analysis and spreadability tests were performed. All formulations revealed to be stable in preliminary stability assessment. The formulations containing HERP 1.5 and 2.5% alone or associated with the filters showed intense modifications during accelerated stability test, which were confirmed by rheological analyses. The incorporation of HERP and filters in the poloxamer hydrogel decreased the toughness of product (p < 0.05) and the formulation containing HERP alone presented the lowest adhesivity (p < 0.001). The incorporation of HERP in the hydrogel decreased the poloxamer transition temperature, showing different rheological behavior with the increase of HERP concentration. The developed formulations were stable, exhibited non-Newtonian and pseudoplastic behavior, showing in vivo skin compatibility and no skin irritancy.

Silsesquioxanes in the Cosmetics Industry-Applications and Perspectives

The rising demand for innovative and sophisticated personal care products is a driving factor for manufacturers to obtain new formulations that will fulfill the customers' preferences. In recent years, silsesquioxanes have attracted the attention of the cosmetics industry. These compounds have been proposed to be used in novel cosmetic formulations as emollient, dispersant, and viscosity modifiers. Therefore, this publication aims to review the main important aspects of polyhedral oligosilsesquioxanes as ingredients of personal care formulations, taking into consideration different types of products. The methods of obtaining these compounds were also presented. Additionally, the detailed analysis of patents dedicated to the application of silsesquioxanes in cosmetic formulations was also performed.

Diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals as nature-inspired UV filters in cosmetic formulations

Inspired by nature’s photoprotection mechanisms, we report an effective UV-blocking nanomaterial based on diethyl sinapate-grafted cellulose nanocrystals (CNC-DES). The colloidal stability and UV-blocking performance of CNC-DES in aqueous glycerol (a common humectant in petroleum-free cosmetic formulations) and in a commercially available moisturizing cream were studied. Grafting the water-insoluble DES onto CNCs renders it dispersible in these water-based formulations, thanks to the excellent water-dispersibility of CNC nanoparticles. Glycerol dispersions containing 0.1 to 1.5 wt% CNC-DES display very high UV-blocking activity owing to the anti-UV DES moieties anchored onto CNCs. A facial cream blended with 1.5 wt% CNC-DES exhibits an SPF of 5.03, which is higher than a commercially available sunscreen with the same active ingredient concentration (SPF = 3.84). DPPH radical scavenging assay also showed the antioxidant potential of CNC-DES, albeit coinciding with a significant reduction in antioxidant activity after grafting DES onto CNCs. Cytotoxicity measurements revealed the CNC-DES not to cause significant cytotoxicity to murine fibroblast cells after 24 h of exposure. Overall, CNC-DES exhibits strong anti-UV and antioxidant properties and is water-dispersible, biocompatible, non-greasy, and lightweight. This study demonstrates the exceptional potential of DES-grafted CNCs as nature-inspired UV filters in the next generation of cosmetic formulations, including those for sensitive skins.

Natural Ingredients Common in the Trás-os-Montes Region (Portugal) for Use in the Cosmetic Industry: A Review about Chemical Composition and Antigenotoxic Properties

The natural cosmetics market has grown since consumers became aware of the concept of natural-based ingredients. A significant number of cosmetics have an ecological impact on the environment and carry noxious and chemically potent substances. Thus, the use of natural and organic cosmetics becomes increasingly important since it is clear that topical treatment with cosmeceuticals can help improve skin rejuvenation. A substantial investigation into the benefits that fruits and plants can bring to health is required. Studies have shown that antigenotoxic properties are linked to anti-aging properties. Several studies have shown potential antigenotoxicity in natural ingredients such as Almonds (Prunus dulcis), Elderberry (Sambucus nigra), Olives (Olea europaea), and Grapes (Vitis vinifera). This review presents an overview of research conducted on these natural ingredients, the most common in the Northeast of Portugal. This region of Portugal possesses the most organic farmers, and ingredients are easily obtained. The Northeast of Portugal also has climatic, topographic, and pedological differences that contribute to agricultural diversity.

In Vitro Evaluation of the Photoprotective Potential of Quinolinic Alkaloids Isolated from the Antarctic Marine Fungus Penicillium echinulatum for Topical Use

Marine-derived fungi proved to be a rich source of biologically active compounds. The genus Penicillium has been extensively studied regarding their secondary metabolites and biological applications. However, the photoprotective effects of these metabolites remain underexplored. Herein, the photoprotective potential of Penicillium echinulatum, an Antarctic alga-associated fungus, was assessed by UV absorption, photostability study, and protection from UVA-induced ROS generation assay on human immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) and reconstructed human skin (RHS). The photosafety was evaluated by the photoreactivity (OECD TG 495) and phototoxicity assays, performed by 3T3 neutral red uptake (3T3 NRU PT, OECD TG 432) and by the RHS model. Through a bio-guided purification approach, four known alkaloids, (-)-cyclopenin (1), dehydrocyclopeptine (2), viridicatin (3), and viridicatol (4), were isolated. Compounds 3 and 4 presented absorption in UVB and UVA-II regions and were considered photostable after UVA irradiation. Despite compounds 3 and 4 showed phototoxic potential in 3T3 NRU PT, no phototoxicity was observed in the RHS model (reduction of cell viability < 30%), which indicates their very low acute photoirritation and high photosafety potential in humans. Viridicatin was considered weakly photoreactive, while viridicatol showed no photoreactivity; both compounds inhibited UVA-induced ROS generation in HaCaT cells, although viridicatol was not able to protect the RHS model against UVA-induced ROS production. Thus, the results highlighted the photoprotective and antioxidant potential of metabolites produced by P. echinulatum which can be considered a new class of molecules for photoprotection, since their photosafety and non-cytotoxicity were predicted using recommended in vitro methods for topical use.

Development and Validation of a Method for the Analysis of Zinc Oxide in Cosmetic Matrices by Flame Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy

A fast and simple method for the extraction and Flame Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy (FAAS) quantification of ZnO in different cosmetic matrices, including lipsticks, water-in-oil foundations, and oil-in-water creams, was developed and validated, according to the International Council for Harmonization of Technical Requirements for Pharmaceuticals for Human Use (ICH) and the United States Pharmacopeial Convention guidelines. The sample preparation consisted of an ultrasound-assisted ethanolic extraction of ZnO followed by digestion with 1 M nitric acid (HNO₃). Samples were analyzed by Flame Atomic Absorption Spectroscopy (FAAS). Specificity, linearity, the limit of detection (LOD), the limit of quantification (LOQ), sensitivity, precision, and accuracy parameters were studied. The robustness of the method was evaluated with a five-variable Youden-Steiner model. The method was specific for ZnO, and the extraction procedure did not affect the stability of the signal compared to the background. The method was linear in the range 0.2-1.0 mg/L with LOD/LOQ values equal to 0.0156 (mg·L^-1)/0.0473 (mg·L^-1), 0.0098 (mg·L^-1)/0.0297 (mg·L^-1), 0.0113 (mg·L^-1)/0.0341 (mg·L^-1), and 0.0131 (mg·L^-1)/0.0397 (mg·L^-1), respectively, for raw material, lipstick, liquid foundation, and emulsion matrices. Regarding precision, the %RSD values were below 3.0% for repeatability and intermediate precision. Global reproducibility RSD was below 8.0% for all matrices. The percentage of recovery was not statistically different from 100% in all cases. The final concentration was found to be a critical variable for all matrices except for the raw material. The variables associated with the extraction step (ethanol volume, bath temperature, and extraction time) were critical in the extraction of liquid foundations and cream emulsions. The method reduces the number and concentration of mineral acids spent on the digestion of ZnO, and its application is extendable to raw materials. This development is an adequate tool for routine analysis and cosmetic quality control of chemically different products that contain ZnO as ultraviolet radiation (UV) filter, to guarantee regulatory compliance and ensure the safety and efficacy of products delivered to consumers.

Potential Use of Amla (Phyllanthus emblica L.) Fruit Extract to Protect Skin Keratinocytes from Inflammation and Apoptosis after UVB Irradiation

Ultraviolet B (UVB) exposure is the primary risk factor for the deadliest type of skin cancer—melanoma. Incorporating natural antioxidants in skin protection products is currently a favored research theme. For this study, we selected Phyllanthus emblica L. fruit extract (PE) to assess its potential use in dermal protection against UVB-induced keratinocyte inflammation and apoptosis. High-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) was used to investigate PE’s phytochemical constituents (ascorbic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, chlorogenic acid, and quercetin), while ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP), oxygen radical absorbance capacity (ORAC), total ROS, OH^•, O₂^•−, and H₂O₂-scavenging activities were used to determine the antioxidant properties. PE significantly increased the cell viability (MTT assay) and reduced apoptosis (Hoechst staining) in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB (40 mJ/cm²). PE abolished oxidative stress by reducing the production of intracellular ROS, O₂^•− and H₂O₂ production. Catalase activity (but not superoxide dismutase or glutathione peroxidase activity) was enhanced in keratinocytes incubated with PE prior to UVB exposure. Western blot analysis suggested that PE inhibited cytochrome c release and inhibited the dysregulation of PI3K/Akt without any impact on p38 activation. PE attenuated the inflammatory response to UVB irradiation by inhibiting AP-1, NF-κB, and the mediator PGE₂. Thus, PE is a candidate with great potential for use as an active ingredient in skin care products.

Challenging Cosmetic Innovation: The Skin Microbiota and Probiotics Protect the Skin from UV-Induced Damage

Many studies performed in the last decade have focused on the cutaneous microbiota. It has been shown that this microbiota plays a key role in skin homeostasis. Considered as “a second barrier” to the environment, it is very important to know how it reacts to exogenous aggressions. The cosmetics industry has a started to use this microbiota as a source of natural ingredients, particularly ones that confer photoprotection against ultraviolet (UV) rays. Interestingly, it has been demonstrated that bacterial molecules can block UV rays or reverse their harmful effects. Oral probiotics containing living microorganisms have also shown promising results in restoring skin homeostasis and reversing the negative effects of UV rays. Microbial-based active sunscreen compounds have huge potential for use as next-generation photoprotection products.

Effect of Surfactant Molecular Structure on Emulsion Stability Investigated by Interfacial Dilatational Rheology

Polyglycerol polyricinolate (PGPR) and polyglycerol-2 dioleate were selected as model surfactants to construct water-in-oil (W/O) emulsions, and the effect of interfacial rheological properties of surfactant film on the stability of emulsions were investigated based on the interfacial dilatational rheological method. The hydrophobicity chain of PGPR is polyricinic acid condensed from ricinic acid, and that of polyglycerol-2 dioleate is oleic acid. Their dynamic interfacial tensions in 15 cycles of interfacial compression-expansion were determined. The interfacial dilatational viscoelasticity was analyzed by amplitude scanning in the range of 1–28% amplitude and frequency sweep in the range of 5–45 mHz under 2% amplitude. It was found that PGPR could quickly reach adsorption equilibrium and form interfacial film with higher interfacial dilatational viscoelastic modulus to resist the deformation of interfacial film caused by emulsion coalescence, due to its branched chain structure and longer hydrophobic chain, and the emulsion thus presented good stability. However, polyglycerol-2 dioleate with a straight chain structure had lower interfacial tension, and it failed to resist the interfacial disturbance caused by coalescence because of its lower interfacial dilatational viscoelastic modulus, and thus the emulsion was unstable. This study reveals profound understanding of the influence of branched structure of PGPR hydrophobic chain on the interfacial film properties and the emulsion stability, providing experimental reference and theoretical guidance for future design or improvement of surfactant.

Transformation of Corn Lignin into Sun Cream Ingredients

Production of value-added chemicals from lignocellulose is one of the key strands of the emerging bio-economy. A synthetic approach has been developed to produce p-methoxy coumarate esters from waste corn stover and corn bran, and further transform these compounds into consumer products. In the first step, p-coumaric acid (pCA) and ferulic acid (FA) are released through mild alkaline hydrolysis of corn waste, in more than 20 mg g^-1 yield (10 wt % based on lignin content). Subsequently, heterogeneous solid acids catalyze the esterification of pCA with various alcohols. Amberlite IR-15 shows the best catalytic performance, owing to its optimal acid density, large surface area, and suitable pore diameter. The solid acid catalyst can be recycled with slight activity loss and regenerated by acid washing and vacuum drying. Finally, methylation of p-coumarate ester to give target product p-methoxy coumarate esters is carried out by using commercially available and low-cost inorganic bases (e. g., K₂ CO₃ ). Base-catalyzed transesterification of methyl p-methoxy coumarate to p-methoxy coumarate esters is also investigated.

Sunscreens Containing Cyclodextrin Inclusion Complexes for Enhanced Efficiency: A Strategy for Skin Cancer Prevention

Unprotected exposure of skin to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) may damage the DNA of skin cells and can lead to skin cancer. Sunscreens are topical formulations used to protect skin against UVR. The active ingredients of sunscreens are UV filters that absorb, scatter, and/or reflect UVR. Preventing the formation of free radicals and repairing DNA damages, natural antioxidants are also added to sunscreens as a second fold of protection against UVR. Antioxidants can help stabilise these formulations during the manufacturing process and upon application on skin. However, UV filters and antioxidants are both susceptible to degradation upon exposure to sunlight and oxygen. Additionally, due to their poor water solubility, natural antioxidants are challenging to formulate and exhibit limited penetration and bioavailability in the site of action (i.e., deeper skin layers). Cyclodextrins (CDs) are cyclic oligosaccharides that are capable of forming inclusion complexes with poorly soluble drugs, such as antioxidants. In this review, we discuss the use of CDs inclusion complexes to enhance the aqueous solubility of antioxidants and chemical UV filters and provide a protective shield against degradative factors. The role of CDs in providing a controlled drug release profile from sunscreens is also discussed. Finally, incorporating CDs inclusion complexes into sunscreens has the potential to increase their efficiency and hence improve their skin cancer prevention.

UV-Protection Performance of Calophyllum inophyllum Seed Extracts: A Natural Ultraviolet Screening Agent

Demand for sunscreen products has been rising in recent years due to increasing cases of skin damage caused byultraviolet radiation (UVR). Recent studies have proved that some materials in commercial sunscreen products are harmful to the marine ecosystem. Therefore, the development of a photoprotective and environmentally friendly screening agent has been a leading direction for the cosmetic industry. Calophyllum inophyllum is a seaside plant found in the Pacific Rim, regarded as a potential source of biodiesel feedstock given the high oil content of its seeds. Due to the harsh environment of its natural habitat, C. inophyllum has developed UV-absorbing secondary metabolites, which are natural sources for screening agents. In this study, samples of seed extracts of C. inophyllum were subjected to in vitro UV, Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and cytotoxicity analysis; all the samples extracted by solvents of various polarities showed different chemical compositions by FTIR spectroscopy and levels of cytotoxicity. The n-hexane seed extract showed the highest UVA and UVB absorption efficiencies. In the in vitro cytotoxicity test on human skin fibroblast cells, seed oil of C. inophyllum demonstrated low cytotoxicity. Results have shown that seed extracts of C. inophyllum can be an ideal material for a natural high-efficiency screening agent.

Potential of Frangipani (Plumeria alba) Leaves Extract as Ultra Violet Protection

Sunlight is the source of life and energy. Besides that, sunlight also creates skin challenges such as sunburn, pigmentation, wrinkles, dermatitis, aging, and skin cancer. Natural sunscreen protection is a popular and preferred way among various regions of the world to reduce sunlight's harmful effect. This study aimed to determine the potential of frangipani (Plumeria alba) leaves extract in some concentrations as ultraviolet protection. Plumeria alba extract contained secondary metabolites such as flavonoids, phenolics, and alkaloids that function as impeding ultraviolet radiation. This study used an experimental method consisting of four treatments and six replications. This study shows that the extract with concentration 2500; 5000; 7500; and 10000 ppm consecutively have SPF value of 6.24; 12.00; 18.45; and 22.64. It can be concluded the P. alba leaves extract potential as ultraviolet protection.

Safety and Photoprotective Efficacy of a Sunscreen System Based on Grape Pomace (Vitis vinifera L.) Phenolics from Winemaking

In winemaking, a large amount of grape pomace is produced that is rich in polyphenolics and highly beneficial for human health, as phenols are useful for skin ultraviolet (UV) protection. In this investigation, we evaluated the safety and clinical efficacy of a sunscreen system containing a grape pomace extract from Vitis vinifera L. as a bioactive ingredient. The recovery of phenolics in the waste was performed by percolation. Nine emulsions were developed using a factorial design and two were evaluated clinically: Formulation E, containing only UV filters (butylmethoxydibenzoyl methane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA), and F, with the extract at 10.0% w/w + UV filters. The antioxidant activity was determined by the DPPH assay and the in vitro efficacy was established by sun protection factor (SPF) measurements (Labsphere UV-2000S). Clinical tests were performed to determine safety (human repeated insult patch test) and to confirm efficacy (photoprotective effectiveness in participants). The results showed a synergistic effect between the sunscreen system and the extract on UVB protection and antioxidant activity. Both samples were considered safe. Formulation F was 20.59% more efficient in protecting skin against UVB radiation, taking approximately 21% more time to induce erythema compared to the extract-free sample.

Safety Evaluation of TiO2 Nanoparticle-Based Sunscreen UV Filters on the Development and the Immunological State of the Sea Urchin Paracentrotus lividus

Sunscreens are emulsions of water and oil that contain filters capable of protecting against the detrimental effects of ultraviolet radiation (UV). The widespread use of cosmetic products based on nanoparticulate UV filters has increased concerns regarding their safety and compatibility with both the environment and human health. In the present work, we evaluated the effects of titanium dioxide nanoparticle (TiO2 NP)-based UV filters with three different surface coatings on the development and immunity of the sea urchin, Paracentrotus lividus. A wide range of NP concentrations was analyzed, corresponding to different levels of dilution starting from the original cosmetic dispersion. Variations in surface coating, concentration, particle shape, and pre-dispersant medium (i.e., water or oil) influenced the embryonic development without producing a relevant developmental impairment. The most common embryonic abnormalities were related to the skeletal growth and the presence of a few cells, which were presumably involved in the particle uptake. Adult P. lividus immune cells exposed to silica-coated TiO2 NP-based filters showed a broad metabolic plasticity based on the biosynthesis of metabolites that mediate inflammation, phagocytosis, and antioxidant response. The results presented here highlight the biosafety of the TiO2 NP-based UV filters toward sea urchin, and the importance of developing safer-by-design sunscreens.

Photoprotection and Skin Pigmentation: Melanin-Related Molecules and Some Other New Agents Obtained from Natural Sources

Direct sun exposure is one of the most aggressive factors for human skin. Sun radiation contains a range of the electromagnetic spectrum including UV light. In addition to the stratospheric ozone layer filtering the most harmful UVC, human skin contains a photoprotective pigment called melanin to protect from UVB, UVA, and blue visible light. This pigment is a redox UV-absorbing agent and functions as a shield to prevent direct UV action on the DNA of epidermal cells. In addition, melanin indirectly scavenges reactive oxygenated species (ROS) formed during the UV-inducing oxidative stress on the skin. The amounts of melanin in the skin depend on the phototype. In most phenotypes, endogenous melanin is not enough for full protection, especially in the summertime. Thus, photoprotective molecules should be added to commercial sunscreens. These molecules should show UV-absorbing capacity to complement the intrinsic photoprotection of the cutaneous natural pigment. This review deals with (a) the use of exogenous melanin or melanin-related compounds to mimic endogenous melanin and (b) the use of a number of natural compounds from plants and marine organisms that can act as UV filters and ROS scavengers. These agents have antioxidant properties, but this feature usually is associated to skin-lightening action. In contrast, good photoprotectors would be able to enhance natural cutaneous pigmentation. This review examines flavonoids, one of the main groups of these agents, as well as new promising compounds with other chemical structures recently obtained from marine organisms.