Carotenoids and polyphenols in nutricosmetics, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals

Influence of collagen peptide supplementation on visible signs of skin and nail health and -aging in an East Asian population: A double blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial

BACKGROUND

A healthy skin provides protection against intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Skin aging is characterized by structural and morphological alterations affecting skin health, integrity, and functionality, resulting in visible aging signs.

AIM

The primary objective of this study was to assess the effect of a collagen peptide dietary supplement on skin aging in the East Asian population.

METHODS

Eighty-five healthy women, aged from 43 to 65 years old, were randomly assigned to the collagen supplement (CP, 5 g) or placebo (maltodextrin, 5 g) group. To standardize daily skin care, the volunteers in both groups used a specific face cream for 28 days prior to and throughout the supplementation period, creating an equal baseline for the assessment of the efficacy of CP on several skin parameters. At baseline, day 28 and day 84, the following hallmarks of skin and nail aging were assessed: dermis density, skin moisture and elasticity, wrinkle visibility, beauty perception, and nail color.

RESULTS

After 84 days, a significant improvement of dermis density and skin moisture was observed in the collagen peptides group compared to the placebo group. Positive effects on skin elasticity, wrinkle visibility, nail color, and overall beauty perception were already observed within 28 days of supplementation in the CP group, while the same effects in the placebo group were only observed after 84 days.

CONCLUSION

Taken together, these results show that, in addition to a standardized skin care, daily supplementation with 5 g of collagen peptides positively affects visible signs of skin and nail aging in the East Asian population.

An Integrated Approach for Biofortification of Carotenoids in Cowpea for Human Nutrition and Health

Stress-resilient and highly nutritious legume crops can alleviate the burden of malnutrition and food security globally. Here, we focused on cowpea, a legume grain widely grown and consumed in regions at a high risk of micronutrient deficiencies, and we discussed the past and present research on carotenoid biosynthesis, highlighting different knowledge gaps and prospects for increasing this micronutrient in various edible parts of the crop. The literature survey revealed that, although carotenoids are important micronutrients for human health and nutrition, like in many other pulses, the potential of carotenoid biofortification in cowpea is still underexploited. We found that there is, to some extent, progress in the quantification of this micronutrient in cowpea; however, the diversity in content in the edible parts of the crop, namely, grains, pods, sprouts, and leaves, among the existing cowpea genetic resources was uncovered. Based on the description of the different factors that can influence carotenoid biosynthesis and accumulation in cowpea, we anticipated that an integrated use of omics in breeding coupled with mutagenesis and genetic engineering in a plant factory system would help to achieve a timely and efficient increase in carotenoid content in cowpea for use in the food systems in sub-Saharan Africa and South Asia.

Novel Insights on Ferroptosis Modulation as Potential Strategy for Cancer Treatment: When Nature Kills

Significance: The multifactorial nature of the mechanisms implicated in cancer development still represents a major issue for the success of established antitumor therapies. The discovery of ferroptosis, a novel form of programmed cell death distinct from apoptosis, along with the identification of the molecular pathways activated during its execution, has led to the uncovering of novel molecules characterized by ferroptosis-inducing properties. Recent advances: As of today, the ferroptosis-inducing properties of compounds derived from natural sources have been investigated and interesting findings have been reported both in vitro and in vivo. Critical Issues: Despite the efforts made so far, only a limited number of synthetic compounds have been identified as ferroptosis inducers, and their utilization is still limited to basic research. In this review, we analyzed the most important biochemical pathways involved in ferroptosis execution, with particular attention to the newest literature findings on canonical and non-canonical hallmarks, together with mechanisms of action of natural compounds identified as novel ferroptosis inducers. Compounds have been classified based on their chemical structure, and modulation of ferroptosis-related biochemical pathways has been reported. Future Directions: The outcomes herein collected represent a fascinating starting point from which to take hints for future drug discovery studies aimed at identifying ferroptosis-inducing natural compounds for anticancer therapies. Antioxid. Redox Signal. 40, 40-85.

Cosmeceuticals: A transit state from synthetic to natural

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied cosmetic products containing a biologically active ingredient with a pharmaceutical effect that improves, nourishes, and treats the skin appearance. The trend of cosmeceuticals began during the mid-20th century due to its potent ingredients with therapeutic effects for various skin ailments. Even though there is a great advancement in cosmetics, which shows the risk of cosmetic linked melanoma, endocrine disorders, and birth defects which was one in 1500 people during 1935 have increased to one in 75 people in 2000. Hence, as a part of reducing the harmful effect, natural ingredients were added to the formulation to give the pharmaceutical effect. Thus, natural/herbal cosmeceuticals were introduced. Due to the awareness of the side effects such as photo-toxicity, mutagenicity, irritation by these synthetic products, people started preferring herbal/natural cosmetic products. Moreover, natural cosmeceuticals were proven to be effective against various dermatological conditions as well as have fewer side effects marked the natural/herbal cosmeceuticals in the market. Unlike a drug, cosmeceutical products undergo safety, toxicity, and efficacy tests, but these are not classified under Food and Drug Administration. This review will give an insight into different natural ingredients used in natural/herbal cosmeceutical formulation and their function challenges faced during formulation, advantages of natural cosmeceuticals over regular cosmeceuticals, and regulatory aspects in India.

Exploring the Chemical Composition of Female Zucchini Flowers for Their Possible Use as Nutraceutical Ingredient

The zucchini (Cucurbita pepo L.) plant is well known for its fruits; however, its edible flowers appear to contain several active molecules, including polyphenols, which display poor bioaccessibility after gastrointestinal digestion (GiD). This study explores the bioaccessibility of polyphenols and antioxidant capacity within zucchini flower extracts during simulated GiD. Two nutraceutical formulations, non-acid-resistant (NAcR) and acid-resistant (AcR) capsules containing an aqueous extract of zucchini flowers, were employed in this investigation. Additionally, high-resolution mass spectrometry (Q-Orbitrap HRMS) was utilized for a comprehensive analysis of their polyphenolic constituents. Predominantly, rutin and isorhamnetin-3-rutinoside were the most prevalent compounds detected in the samples (514.62 and 318.59 mg/kg, respectively). Following in vitro GiD, the extract encapsulated in AcR capsules exhibited enhanced bioaccessibility during both the duodenal (189.2 and 162.5 mg GAE/100 g, respectively) and colonic stages (477.4 and 344.7 mg GAE/100 g, respectively) when compared with the extract encapsulated in NAcR capsules. This suggests that gastric acidity adversely impacted the release of polyphenols from NAcR capsules. In conclusion, the aqueous zucchini flower extract emerges as a promising and readily accessible source of dietary polyphenols. Moreover, the utilization of AcR capsules presents a potential nutraceutical formulation strategy to improve polyphenol bioaccessibility, enhancing its applicability in promoting health and well-being.

Evaluating the physiological responses and identifying stress tolerance of Akabare chili landraces to individual and combined drought and heat stresses

Abstract. Akabare chili (Capsicum annuum) contributes to Nepalese rural livelihoods but suffers from low productivity due to various abiotic stresses including drought and heat. This study aimed to assess the physiological responses of Akabare chili landraces to heat and drought stress, individually and together, and to identify stress-tolerant genotypes in the early vegetative stage. Selected eight Akabare chili landraces and chili variety 'Jwala' were subjected to control (30/22 °C day/night) and heat stress (40/32 °C) conditions with irrigation, and drought stress (30/22 °C) and combined drought-heat stress conditions without irrigation for 7 days, followed by a 5-day recovery under control condition. Stress-tolerant landraces showed better performance compared to sensitive ones in terms of efficacy of PS II (Fv/Fm), transpiration rate (E), net photosynthetic rate (PN), stomatal conductance (gs), leaf temperature depression, water use efficiency (WUE) and the ratio of stomata pore area to stomata area under stress conditions, resulting in improved biomass. Although all genotypes performed statistically similar under control conditions, their responses Fv/Fm, PN, E, gs and WUE were significantly reduced under thermal stress, further reduced under drought stress, and severely declined under the combination of both. Total biomass exhibited a 57.48 % reduction due to combined stress, followed by drought (37.8 %) and heat (21.4 %) compared to the control. Among the landraces, C44 showed the most significant gain in biomass (35 %), followed by DKT77 (33.48 %), while the lowest gain percentage was observed for C64C and PPR77 during the recovery phase (29 %). The tolerant landraces also showed a higher percentage of leaf cooling, chlorophyll content and leaf relative water content with fewer stomata but broader openings of pores. The study identifies potential stress-tolerant Akabare chili landraces and discusses the stress-tolerant physiological mechanisms to develop resilient crop varieties in changing climates.

Lipid Nanoparticles Loading Steroidal Alkaloids of Tomatoes Affect Neuroblastoma Cell Viability in an In Vitro Model

Tomato by-products represent a good source of phytochemical compounds with health properties, such as the steroidal glycoalkaloid α-tomatine (α-TM) and its aglycone tomatidine (TD). Both molecules have numerous beneficial properties, such as potential anticancer activity. Unfortunately, their therapeutic application is limited due to stability and bioavailability issues. Therefore, a valid strategy seems to be their encapsulation into Solid Lipid Nanoparticles (SLN). The nanoformulations containing α-TM (α-TM-SLN) and TD (TD-SLN) were prepared by solvent-diffusion technique and subsequently characterized in terms of technological parameters (particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential, microscopy, and calorimetric studies). To assess the effect of α-TM and TD on the percentage of cellular viability in Olfactory Ensheathing Cells (OECs), a peculiar glial cell type of the olfactory system used as normal cells, and in SH-SY5Y, a neuroblastoma cancer cell line, an MTT test was performed. In addition, the effects of empty, α-TM-SLN, and TD-SLN were tested. Our results show that the treatment of OECs with blank-SLN, free α-TM (0.25 µg/mL), and TD (0.50 µg/mL) did not induce any significant change in the percentage of cell viability when compared with the control. In contrast, in SH-SY5Y-treated cells, a significant decrease in the percentage of cell viability when compared with the control was found. In particular, the effect appeared more evident when SH-SY5Y cells were exposed to α-TM-SLN and TD-SLN. No significant effect in blank-SLN-treated SH-SY5T cells was observed. Therefore, SLN is a promising approach for the delivery of α-TM and TD.

Rowanberry-A Source of Bioactive Compounds and Their Biopharmaceutical Properties

After a period of intense development in the synthesis pharmaceutical industry, plants are making a comeback in the public focus as remedies or therapeutic adjuvants and in disease prevention and ensuring the wellbeing and equilibrium of the human body. Plants are being recommended more and more in alimentation, in their natural form, or as extracts, supplements or functional aliments. People, in general, are in search of new sources of nutrients and phytochemicals. As a result, scientific research turns to lesser known and used plants, among them being rowanberries, a species of fruit very rich in nutrients and underused due to their bitter astringent taste and a lack of knowledge regarding the beneficial effects of these fruit. Rowan fruits (rowanberries) are a rich source of vitamins, polysaccharides, organic acids and minerals. They are also a source of natural polyphenols, which are often correlated with the prevention and treatment of modern world diseases. This article presents the existing data regarding the chemical composition, active principles and biopharmaceutical properties of rowan fruits and the different opportunities for their usage.

Sustainable production of bacterioruberin carotenoid and its derivatives from Arthrobacter agilis NP20 on whey-based medium: optimization and product characterization

Bacterioruberin and its rare glycosylated derivatives are produced by Arthrobacter agilis as an adaptation strategy to low temperature conditions. The high antioxidant properties of bacterioruberin held great promise for different future applications like the pharmaceutical and food industries. Microbial production of bacterioruberin via a cost-effective medium will help increase its commercial availability and industrial use. The presented study aims to optimize the production of the rare C50 carotenoid bacterioruberin and its derivatives from the psychotrophic bacteria Arthrobacter agilis NP20 strain on a whey-based medium as a cost effective and readily available nutritious substrate. The aim of the study is extended to assess the efficiency of whey treatment in terms of estimating total nitrogen content in treated and untreated whey samples. The significance of medium ingredients on process outcome was first tested individually; then the most promising factors were further optimized using Box Behnken design (BBD). The produced carotenoids were characterized using UV-visible spectroscopy, FTIR spectroscopy, HPLC-DAD chromatography and HPLC-APCI-MS spectrometry. The maximum pigment yield (5.13 mg/L) was achieved after a 72-h incubation period on a core medium composed of 96% sweet whey supplemented with 0.46% MgSO4 & 0.5% yeast extract and inoculated with 6% (v/v) of a 24 h pre-culture (109 CFU/mL). The cost of the formulated medium was 1.58 $/L compared with 30.1 $/L of Bacto marine broth medium. The extracted carotenoids were identified as bacterioruberin, bis-anhydrobacteriouberin, mono anhydrobacterioruberin, and glycosylated bacterioruberin. The presented work illustrates the possibility of producing bacterioruberin carotenoid from Arthrobacter agilis through a cost-effective and eco-friendly approach using cheese whey-based medium.

Up-Cycling of Olea europaea L. Ancient Cultivars Side Products: Study of a Combined Cosmetic-Food Supplement Treatment Based on Leaves and Olive Mill Wastewater Extracts

In recent years, a reversal of the global economic framework has been taking place: from the linear model, there has been a gradual transition to a circular model where by-products from the agri-food industry are taken and transformed into value products (upcycling) rather than being disposed of. Olive tree pruning represents an important biomass currently used for combustion; however, the leaf part of the olive tree is rich in phenolic substances, including hydroxytyrosol. Mill wastewater is also discarded, but it still contains high amounts of hydroxytyrosol. In this study, cosmetic and food supplement formulations were prepared using biophenols extracted from leaves and wastewater and were tested in a placebo-controlled study on healthy volunteers using a combined cosmetic and food supplement treatment. A significant improvement in skin health indicators (collagen density, elasticity, etc.) and a 17% improvement against Photo-induced Irritative Stimulus was observed.

Effect of Oral Intake of Flammulina velutipes (Enokitake) on Skin Condition in Healthy Adult Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Study on Mental and Physical Health

Nutritional foods are concentrated sources of molecules with a nutritional or physiological effect which contain nutrients. There is a category, “nutricosmetics”, defined as ingestible natural health products that enhance the function and appearance of human skin, nails, and hair. A new variety of Flammulina velutipes (F. velutipes), Oki-Shirayuki 919, was explored to ascertain whether its components have functions of nutricosmetics. We focused on physiological effects for enhancing the human skin condition, such as moisturizing or barrier functions in F. velutipes. A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled clinical study was performed between January and March 2022. Among healthy men and women (n = 30) aged 20 to 59 years, the test group (n = 15) took a test product which included F. velutipes dry powder, and the placebo group (n = 15) took a placebo (a similar product in which the F. velutipes dry powder was replaced with plum fruit paste). Since the amount of increase in skin hydration over four weeks in the test group was significantly larger than that in the placebo group, a significant difference between the two groups was observed (p = 0.033). F. velutipe was suggested to have some physiological functions such as improving skin moisture.

Phytoprofiling of Sorbus L. Inflorescences: A Valuable and Promising Resource for Phenolics

The leaves and fruits of various Sorbus L. genotypes have long ethnopharmacological and food-usage histories, but inflorescences are still underutilized and neglected materials with scarce phytochemical scientific evidence. The aim of this study was to determine the phenolic profiles of inflorescence extracts of 26 Sorbus species, genotypes, and cultivars. HPLC and UPLS with MS detection were applied, and coupled data revealed unique phytochemical phenolic profiles. Neochlorogenic and chlorogenic acids were the key compounds, reaching up to 5.8 mg/g of dw. Rutin, isoquercitrin, quercetin 3-O-malonylglucoside, isorhamnetin 3-O-rutinoside, sexangularetin derivative, and kaempferol acetyl hexoside were detected in all Sorbus inflorescence samples. Overall, high quantitative heterogeneity across the various Sorbus genotypes was found by profiling. Phenolic fingerprint profiles and sexangularetin derivatives could serve as markers in authenticity studies and quality control schemes. The species S. amurensis, S. arranensis, S. commixta, and S. discolor and the cultivars 'Chamsis Louing', 'Coral Beauty', and 'Edulis' could be used as target genotypes for production of smart and innovative inflorescence matrix-based ingredients.

Assessment of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties and Safety of Use of Model Skin Tonics with Kombucha-Fermented Red Berry Extracts

Kombucha is a health-promoting beverage that is produced by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and yeast of the genus Saccharomyces. This study compared the cosmetic and dermatological properties of the extracts of the following redberries: R. rubrum, F. vesca, and R. idaeus, and their ferments, which were obtained by fermentation for 10 and 20 days using tea fungus. For this purpose, the fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition using the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method, demonstrating the high content of biologically active compounds that were present in the ferments. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS tests, as well as by evaluating the scavenging of the external and intracellular free radicals. The cytotoxicity of the extracts and the ferments, as well as the cosmetic formulations, were also determined by conducting Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests assessing the cell viability and metabolism using skin cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In addition, application tests were conducted showing the positive effects of the model cosmetic tonics on the TEWL, the skin hydration, and the skin pH. The results indicate that both the extracts and the ferments that were obtained from kombucha can be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Cosmetic Potential of Pigments Extracts from the Marine Cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp

The current mindset in the cosmetics market about sustainable ingredients had increased the search for new sources of natural active ingredients. Cyanobacteria are a great source of functional ingredients for cosmetics, as a producer of pigments with described bioactive potential (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins). This work aimed to evaluate the cosmetic potential of marine cyanobacterium Cyanobium sp. pigment-targeted extracts (carotenoids and phycobiliproteins), evaluating their in vitro safety through cytotoxicity assays, cosmetic-related enzyme inhibition, ingredient stability, and putative product (serum formulation). Results showed no cytotoxicity from the extracts in skin-related cell lines. Carotenoid extract showed anti-hyaluronidase capacity (IC₅₀ = 108.74 ± 5.74 mg mL⁻¹) and phycobiliprotein extract showed anti-hyaluronidase and anti-collagenase capacity (IC₅₀ = 67.25 ± 1.18 and 582.82 ± 56.99 mg mL⁻¹, respectively). Regarding ingredient and serum stability, both ingredients showed higher stability at low-temperature conditions, and it was possible to maintain the pigment content and bioactive capacity stable during the tested period, although in higher temperatures the product was degraded in a week. As a major conclusion, both extracts can be potential natural and sustainable ingredients for cosmetic uses, with relatively simple formulation and storage, and can be promising natural anti-aging ingredients due to their bioactive capacity.

Cannabidiolic acid in Hemp Seed Oil Table Spoon and Beyond

Cannabidiolic acid (CBDA) is the main precannabinoid in industrial hemp. It represents a common constituent of hemp seed oil, but mainly abundant in the aerial parts of the plant (including their processing waste). Thus, the optimization of fast and low-cost purification strategies is mandatory, as well as a deep investigation on its nutraceutical and cosmeceutical properties. To this purpose, CBDA content in hemp seed oil is evaluated, and its recovery from wasted leaves is favorably achieved. The cytotoxicity screening towards HaCaT cells, by means of MTT, SRB and LDH release assays, suggested it was not able to decrease cell viability or perturb cell integrity up to 10 μM concentration. Thus, the ability of CBDA to differentially modulate the release of proinflammatory cytokines and chemokines mediators has been evaluated, finding that CBDA decreased IFN-γ, CXCL8, CXCL10, CCL2, CCL4 and CCL5, mostly in a dose-dependent manner, with 10 μM tested concentration exerting the highest activity. These data, together with those from assessing antimicrobial activity against Gram(+) and Gram(−) bacteria and the antibiofilm formation, suggest that CBDA is able to counteract the inflammatory response, also preventing bacteria colonization.

Polyphenols Extracts from Oil Production Waste Products (OPWPs) Reduce Cell Viability and Exert Anti-Inflammatory Activity via PPARγ Induction in Colorectal Cancer Cells

Olive oil production is associated with the generation of oil production waste products (OPWPs) rich in water-soluble polyphenols that represent serious environmental problems. Yet OPWPs can offer new opportunities by exploiting their bioactive properties. In this study, we chemically characterized OPWPs polyphenolic extracts and investigated their biological activities in normal and colorectal cancer cells. Hydroxytyrosol (HTyr), the major constituent of these extracts, was used as the control. We show that both HTyr and the extracts affect cell viability by inducing apoptosis and cell cycle arrest. They downregulate inflammation by impairing NF-κB phosphorylation and expression of responsive cytokine genes, as TNF-α and IL-8, at both mRNA and protein levels, and prevent any further increase elicited by external challenges. Mechanistically, HTyr and the extracts activate PPARγ while hampering pro-inflammatory genes expression, acting as a specific agonist, likely through a trans-repression process. Altogether, OPWPs polyphenolic extracts show stronger effects than HTyr, conceivably due to additive or synergistic effects of all polyphenols contained. They display anti-inflammatory properties and these results may pave the way for improving OPWPs extraction and enrichment methods to reduce the environmental impact and support their use to ameliorate the inflammation associated with diseases and tumors.

Production Performance, Egg Quality Characteristics, Fatty Acid Profile and Health Lipid Indices of Produced Eggs, Blood Biochemical Parameters and Welfare Indicators of Laying Hens Fed Dried Olive Pulp

This study aimed to evaluate the long-term dietary effects of dried olive pulp (OP) on production performance, fatty acid profile and health lipid indices and quality characteristics of produced eggs, health and welfare indicators of laying hens. It was carried out in a commercial poultry farm using 300 Isa Brown layers at 23 weeks of age. The hens were randomly and equally divided in six dietary groups CON, OP2, OP3, OP4, OP5 and OP6, according to the inclusion rate of OP in the ration (0%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5% and 6%, respectively). OP feeding increased the percentage of polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFA) in eggs, decreased that of saturated fatty acids (SFA) and improved the PUFA to SFA ratio and health lipid indices, as indicated by the decrease of AI and TI and the increase in the h/H ratio of produced eggs, in a dose-dependent way. OP-fed layers presented a lower percentage of broken eggshells compared to controls. No adverse effects on birds’ performance, egg quality traits, health and welfare parameters were observed but a positive impact on Keel Bone Damage (KBD) incidence and belly plumage damage was recorded. OP feeding at the rates of 5% and 6% seems to be beneficial in improving egg nutrition quality.

Cosmeceutical Potential of Major Tropical and Subtropical Fruit By-Products for a Sustainable Revalorization

The increasing production of tropical fruits followed by their processing results in tons of waste, such as skins or seeds. However, these by-products have been reported to be rich in bioactive compounds (BACs) with excellent properties of interest in the cosmeceutical industry: antioxidant, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and photoprotective properties. This review summarizes the tropical fruits most produced worldwide, their bioactive composition and the most important and studied therapeutic properties that their by-products can contribute to skin health, as well as the different approaches for obtaining these compounds using techniques by conventional (Soxhlet, liquid-liquid extraction or maceration) and non-conventional extractions (supercritical fluid extraction (SFE), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UAE), microwave-assisted extraction (MAE), pressurized liquid extraction (PLE) and two-phase aqueous system), followed by their identification by HPLC-MS or GC-MS analysis. Moreover, this work encompasses several studies that may prove the effects of seeds and skins from tropical fruits against oxidative stress, hyperpigmentation, acne, aging or UV radiation. Therefore, the investigation of functional components present in tropical fruit by-products under a circular bioeconomy model could be of great interest for the cosmeceutical industry and a very promising option for obtaining new cosmeceutical formulations.

Plant-Derived Antioxidants: Significance in Skin Health and the Ageing Process

Natural substances have traditionally been used in skin care for centuries. There is now an ongoing search for new natural bioactives that not only promote skin health but also protect the skin against various harmful factors, including ultraviolet radiation and free radicals. Free radicals, by disrupting defence and restoration mechanisms, significantly contribute to skin damage and accelerate ageing. Natural compounds present in plants exhibit antioxidant properties and the ability to scavenge free radicals. The increased interest in plant chemistry is linked to the growing interest in plant materials as natural antioxidants. This review focuses on aromatic and medicinal plants as a source of antioxidant substances, such as polyphenols, tocopherols, carotenoids, ascorbic acid, and macromolecules (including polysaccharides and peptides) as well as components of essential oils, and their role in skin health and the ageing process.

Rational selection of bioactive principles for wound healing applications: Growth factors and antioxidants

Wound healing is a complex process of communication between growth factors, reactive species of oxygen, cells, signalling pathways, and cytokines in the extracellular matrix, in which growth factors are the key regulators. In humans, the main regulators of the cellular responses in wound healing are five growth factors, namely EGF, bFGF, VEGF, and TGF-β1. On the other hand, antioxidants such as astaxanthin, beta-carotene, epigallocatechin gallate, delphinidin, and curcumin have been demonstrated to stimulate cell proliferation, migration and angiogenesis, and control inflammation, to suggest a practical approach to design new strategies to treat non-healing cutaneous conditions. Based on the individual effects of growth factors and antioxidants, it may be envisioned that the use of both types of bioactives in wound healing formulations may have an additive or synergistic effect on the healing potential. This review addresses the effect of growth factors and antioxidants on wound healing-related processes. Furthermore, a prospective on their potential additive or synergistic effect on wound healing formulations, based on their individual effects, is presented. This may serve as a guide for the development of a new generation of wound healing formulations.

Chemical Composition of Green Pea (Pisum sativum L.) Pods Extracts and Their Potential Exploitation as Ingredients in Nutraceutical Formulations

Agro-industrial wastes contain a large number of important active compounds which can justify their use as innovative ingredients in nutraceutical products. This study aimed to provide a complete analysis of active molecules, namely (poly)phenols in pea pods water-based extracts, through a UHPLC-Q-Orbitrap HRMS methodology. Data showed that 5-caffeoylquinic acid, epicatechin, and hesperidin were the most relevant (poly)phenols found in the assayed extracts, with a mean value of 59.87, 29.46, and 19.94 mg/100 g, respectively. Furthermore, changes in antioxidant capacity and bioaccessibility of total phenolic compounds (TPC) after the simulated gastrointestinal (GI) process were performed using spectrophotometric assays (FRAP, DPPH, ABTS, and TPC by Folin-Ciocalteu). The acid-resistant capsules (ARC) and the non-acid resistant capsules (NARC) containing the pea pod extract underwent simulated GI digestion. The results suggested that the ARC formulations were able to preserve the active compounds along the simulated GI process, highlighting a higher TPC value and antioxidant capacity than the NARC formulations and the not-encapsulated extracts. Hence, the pea pods water-based extracts could be utilized as a potential alternative source of active compounds, and the use of ARC could represent a suitable nutraceutical formulation to vehiculate the active compounds, protecting the chemical and bioactive properties of (poly)phenols.

Aquatic Phlorotannins and Human Health: Bioavailability, Toxicity, and Future Prospects

Medicinal chemists and pharmacognosists have relied on terrestrial sources for bioactive phytochemicals to manage and treat disease conditions. However, minimal interest is given to sea life, especially macroalgae and their inherent phytochemical reserves. Phlorotannins are a special class of phytochemicals mainly predominant in brown algae of marine and estuarine habitats. Phlorotannins are formed through the polymerization of phloroglucinol residues and derivatives via the polyketide (acetate–malonate) pathway. Studies over the past decades have implicated phlorotannins with several bioactivities, including anti-herbivory, antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial, anti-proliferative, anti-diabetic, radio-protective, adipogenic, anti-allergic, and anti-human immunodeficiency virus (anti-HIV) properties. All these activities are reflected in their applications as nutraceuticals and cosmeceutical agents. This article reviews the chemical composition of phlorotannins, their biological roles, and their applications. Moreover, very few studies on phlorotannin bioavailability, safety, and toxicity have been thoroughly reviewed. The paper concludes by suggesting exciting research questions for further studies.

Selected Extracts from High Mountain Plants as Potential Sunscreens with Antioxidant Capacity

The photoprotective and antioxidant activities of extracts of six species of plants collected in a high mountain ecosystem at 3150 m.a.s.l. were evaluated. In vitro photoprotection according to UVA-UVB absorption spectrum, Sun Protection Factor (SPF), UVA Protection Factor (UVAPF), (critical wavelength) λ_c and UVA/UVB Ratio were assessed. Also, the antioxidant activity was determined using the DPPH radical assay and the inhibition of lipid peroxidation in methyl linoleate (MeLo). Total anthocyanins content (TAC) and total polyphenolic content (TPC) were evaluated. Among the extracts evaluated, the extract of B. antioquensis, an endemic plant of Colombia, showed a significant photoprotection against UVA-UVB range, with SPF values of 15 ± 2 and UVAPF of 7 ± 1, λ_c : 378, UVA/UVB Ratio: 0.78. Furthermore, this extract presented an excellent antioxidant activity, with EC₅₀ of 0.17 ± 0.04 g of dry extract/mmol DPPH, a value of TPC of 464 ± 9 mg gallic acid equivalents (GAE)/g dry extract and significant inhibition of MeLo peroxidation. The results suggest that the extract of B. antioquensis has the best quality to be a source of new UV filters, with a broad spectrum of protection and antioxidant properties.

Valorization of Bio-Residues from the Processing of Main Portuguese Fruit Crops: From Discarded Waste to Health Promoting Compounds

Food processing generates a large amount of bio-residues, which have become the focus of different studies aimed at valorizing this low-cost source of bioactive compounds. High fruit consumption is associated with beneficial health effects and, therefore, bio-waste and its constituents arouse therapeutic interest. The present work focuses on the main Portuguese fruit crops and revises (i) the chemical constituents of apple, orange, and pear pomace as potential sources of functional/bioactive compounds; (ii) the bioactive evidence and potential therapeutic use of bio-waste generated in the processing of the main Portuguese fruit crops; and (iii) potential applications in the food, nutraceutical, pharmaceutical, and cosmetics industries. The current evidence of the effect of these bio-residues as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial agents is also summarized. Conclusions of the revised data are that these bio-wastes hold great potential to be employed in specific nutritional and pharmaceutical applications.

Valorization of byproducts from tropical fruits: A review, Part 2: Applications, economic, and environmental aspects of biorefinery via supercritical fluid extraction

The global trade of tropical fruits is expected to increase significantly in the coming years. In 2018, the production was approximately 100 million tones, an increase of 3.3% compared to the previous year. Nevertheless, according to the Food and Agricultural Organization, every year one-third of the food produced in the world for human consumption is lost or wasted. More specifically, around 45% of the fruits, constituted mainly by peels, seeds, and pulps after juice extraction, are discarded mainly in the agricultural and processing steps. Therefore, decreasing and/or using these byproducts, which are often rich in bioactive components, have become an important focus for both the scientific community and the fruit processing industry. In this line, supercritical fluid extraction (SFE) technology is expected to play a significant role in the valorization of these byproducts. This review presents the concepts of a tropical fruit biorefinery using supercritical CO₂ extraction and the potential applications of the isolated fractions. There is a specific focus on the extraction of bioactive compounds, that is, carotenoids and phenolics, but also oils and other valuable molecules. Moreover, the techno-economic and environmental performance is assessed. Overall, the biorefinery of tropical fruits via SFE provides new opportunities for development of food and pharmaceutical products with improved economic and environmental performance.

Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Human skin is continually changing. The condition of the skin largely depends on the individual’s overall state of health. A balanced diet plays an important role in the proper functioning of the human body, including the skin. The present study draws attention to bioactive substances, i.e., vitamins, minerals, fatty acids, polyphenols, and carotenoids, with a particular focus on their effects on the condition of the skin. The aim of the study was to review the literature on the effects of bioactive substances on skin parameters such as elasticity, firmness, wrinkles, senile dryness, hydration and color, and to define their role in the process of skin ageing.

Nutlets of Tilia cordata Mill. and Tilia platyphyllos Scop. - Source of bioactive compounds

The aim of this study was to analyse contents of phytosterols, carotenoids, tocochromanols and fatty acid composition in oil from nutlets of linden. Standard determination methods for these compounds were applied using liquid and gas chromatography. In the analysed oils from small and large-leaved lime the dominant acids included linoleic (53.1 and 54.1%), oleic (18.5 and 22.2%), palmitic (15.3 and 11.8%). Linden seed oil was characterised by very high contents of phytosterols (2-2.5 g/100 g). β-Sitosterol was the dominant phytosterol (80-83%). Additionally squalene was detected at 806 and 607 mg/100 g, respectively, for Tilia cordata and T.platyphyllos. It was found that linden seed oil contains tocopherols (93%) and tocotrienols (7%). In terms of tocochromanol contents this oil is surpassed only by wheat germ oil. In terms of the α-T equivalent these oils contain 95 (Tilia cordata) and 50.6 mg/100 g vitamin E (Tilia platyphyllos).

Dermatological applications of the flavonoid phloretin

Botanical molecules are known to have the ability to counteract ultraviolet radiation-induced skin damage. The interest in the development of natural compound-based products for the prevention of solar ultraviolet radiation-induced skin photoaging, melasma, and photocarcinogenesis has been increasing. Recently, the flavonoid phloretin has attracted the attention of researchers in the dermatological field for application in cosmetics and therapeutics. In addition to its antioxidant activity, phloretin has been shown to have properties such as anti-aging and depigmenting effects. In this study, we review the dermatological treatments with phloretin for conditions such as melasma, photoaging, acne, and melanoma. Phloretin has been shown to inhibit elastase and matrix metalloproteinase-1 activity, to reduce cellular tyrosinase activity and melanin content, and induce apoptosis in B16 mouse melanoma 4A5 cells. An in vivo study showed that phloretin, applied topically to the dorsal skin of mice, suppressed the 12-O-tetradecanoylphorbol 13-acetate-induced expression of COX-2, a critical molecular target of many chemopreventive, as well as anti-inflammatory agents. Phloretin can penetrate the skin; nevertheless, its penetration profile in different skin layers has not yet been evaluated. Despite its health benefits, phloretin application has been limited because of its photoinstability and poor aqueous solubility, among other limitations. Therefore, we reviewed the recent advances in pharmaceutical applications such as the use of nanotechnology, in order to improve the cutaneous availability of phloretin. In this review, we also focus on the oral application, product development challenges, and recent progress and future research directions on phloretin.

Using Metabolic Engineering to Connect Molecular Biology Techniques to Societal Challenges

Genetically modified organisms (GMOs) are a topic of broad interest and are discussed in classes ranging from introductory biology to bioethics to more advanced methods-focused molecular biology courses. In most cases, GMOs are discussed in the context of introducing a single protein-coding gene to produce a single desired trait in a crop. For example, a commercially available kit allows students to test whether food products contain GMOs by detecting the Bacillus thuringiensis delta-endotoxin gene, which confers resistance to European corn borers. We have developed an 8-week laboratory module for upper-division undergraduates and graduate students that builds upon students’ basic understanding of GMOs to introduce them to the techniques used to sustainably produce commercially valuable products in yeast through metabolic engineering. In this course, students use recombination-based methods to assemble genes encoding entire metabolic pathways in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, perform genetic screens to identify yeast genes that impact metabolite yield, and use error-prone PCR to optimize metabolic pathway function. In parallel to these laboratory-based activities, students engage with the societal impact of these approaches through case studies of products made via yeast metabolic engineering, such as opioids, omega-3 fatty acids, and the Impossible Burger. In this report, we focus on these case studies as well as an individual sustainability project assignment created for this course. This assignment, which spans the 8-week module, asks students to find examples of yeast metabolic engineering that could be used to address current sustainability challenges in their communities. By the end of the course, students synthesize this information to create a case study that could be used to teach concepts related to metabolic engineering and sustainability to their peers. Student approaches to this project have varied from literature reviews, to news searches, to directly contacting and interviewing researchers using novel metabolic engineering approaches. These student-produced projects are used as case studies in future semesters, amplifying student voices and contributing to student ownership. While developed in the context of this course, the sustainability project and case studies are broadly applicable and could be adapted for use in biology or bioethics courses at the undergraduate or graduate level. Through this report, we hope to gain collaborators interested in implementing a version of the course at their institutions, allowing for robust assessment of the impact of the course on a larger group of students.

The role of a cosmetologist in the area of health promotion and health education: A systematic review

Background: Contemporary cosmetology, apart from beautifying and caring for the human body, deals also with prevention aimed at maintaining health and physical fitness as long as possible. The profession of a cosmetologist so understood is closely related to the modern concept of health promotion, the part of which is health education. The objective of this review was to evaluate whether a cosmetologist may be a health promoter, and whether a beauty salon mayserve as a place for conducting educational programs.

Methods: A systematic review was done using several electronic databases such as PubMed(including MEDLINE), Web of Science Core Collection, Scopus, Embase, and Academic Search Ultimate (EBSCO) and related keywords. The studies published in English between 2008 and 2018 which had specifically mentioned the role of a cosmetologist in the area of health promotion and health education were included.

Results: In total, 7 articles met the study criteria. It was found that cosmetologists have the potential to promote pro-health activities. The results of this review also suggest that beauty salons are suitable places for increasing pro-health awareness and can be successfully used to conduct educational programs about healthy lifestyle, as well as skin, breast and cervical cancer prevention.

Conclusion: A well-educated and aware of health risks cosmetologist seems to be the right person to transmit and spread knowledge about the proper lifestyle in her workplace and the local environment. A beauty salon, as a place of social interaction, may constitute an area of implementation of pro-health educational programs.

Phytochemical Profiles, Antioxidant and Antibacterial Activities of Grape (Vitis vinifera L.) Seeds and Skin from Organic and Conventional Vineyards

The therapeutic benefits of extracts obtained from different red grape fractions were thoroughly studied, however, data regarding the comparison of phytochemical extracts prepared from the same varieties coming from organic versus conventional management systems are rather lacking. The present study aimed at comparing some of the phytochemical characteristics and antimicrobial activity of hydroalcoholic (50% v/v) extracts obtained from four varieties of red grapes cultivated respectively in organic and conventional vineyards. Total flavonoid content, total phenolic compounds, and antioxidant activity were determined by molecular absorption spectroscopy. Antimicrobial activity of the studied extracts was evaluated against common bacterial strains isolated from different habitats according to specific lab procedures. The analyses were performed in solid broths by applying the disk diffusion method, which allowed for the simultaneous determination of the spectrum of the sensitivity of the tested bacteria as well as the values of the minimum inhibition concentration (MIC). It was found that favorable antagonistic activities against the tested bacteria strains were exhibited by the hydroalcoholic extracts from the seeds of the organic varieties, respectively the skin of the conventional varieties.

In vivo SPF from multifunctional sunscreen systems developed with natural compounds-A review

BACKGROUND

The use of sunscreens is mandatory, especially in countries with high ultraviolet (UV) incidence. In consequence, there has been a growing interest in using compounds from natural sources to develop new multifunctional products that protect human skin from the consequences of UV exposition. Even though there are in vitro methods to determine anti-UV efficacy, it is still required to test photoprotection activity on human skin to validate product performance.

AIM AND METHODS

In this review, we summarized all reported clinical studies about sun protection factor (SPF) measurements of sunscreens with natural compounds. We also discussed the probable action mechanism of those actives.

RESULTS

Herein, we provided an overview on recent studies concerning photoprotection activity of compounds from natural sources, for example, rutin, ferulic acid, caffeine, shea butter, and plant extracts, mainly presented in sunscreen systems with efficacy clinically established by SPF.

CONCLUSION

Our review suggested that even when the in vivo SPF evaluation has inherent difficulties, it is essential to assure the real efficacy of sunscreens. Furthermore, the incorporation of natural compounds could enhance the in vivo SPF values of such sunscreens by different mechanisms. Finally, some compounds derived from natural resources with skin benefits could be used as "green"/natural UV filters that provide broad-spectrum sunscreens with further upgrading of the multifunctional dermocosmetic formulation to enhance aesthetics and even skin health.

Biologically Active Compounds from Goji (Lycium Barbarum L.) Leaves Aqueous Extracts: Purification and Concentration by Membrane Processes

Goji (Lycium barbarum L.) leaves and fruits have been described as a valuable source of bioactive compounds with a great potential for the development of health-promoting formulations. The present study aimed to evaluate the potential of a sustainable process for the recovery of phenolic compounds from Goji leaves through a combination of aqueous extraction and membrane-based operations. Water was used as a safe, cheap, and non-hazardous extraction solvent, and parameters of extraction of dried Goji leaves were optimized in order to maximize the yield of polyphenols, total soluble solids (TSS), and total antioxidants simultaneously. The aqueous extract was clarified by ultrafiltration and then processed with three flat-sheet polyethersulphone (PES) membranes with molecular weight cut-off (MWCO) values in the range of 0.3–4.0 kDa, in order to remove sugar compounds from polyphenols and improve the antioxidant activity of the produced fractions. Among the selected membranes, a 1 kDa membrane exhibited the best performance in terms of purification of polyphenols from the clarified aqueous extract. The rejection by this membrane of TSS and total carbohydrates was in the range of 15.8–25.3%, and was decreased by increasing the volume reduction factor (VRF). On the other hand, the retention values for total polyphenols and total antioxidant activity (TAA) were in the range of 73–80%, and were increased by increasing the VRF.

In Vitro and In Vivo Study on Humans of Natural Compound Synergy as a Multifunctional Approach to Cellulite-Derived Skin Imperfections

Aim: The present study aimed to assess the efficacy of a nutraceutical ingredient, SelectSIEVE® Rainbow, based on botanical extracts, in ameliorating cellulite-derived skin imperfections and microcirculation. The nutritional supplement contained a mixture of Oryza sativa (L.), Citrus sinensis (L.) Osbeck, Ananas comosus (L.) Merr, and Actinidia chinensis Planch; all ingredients were botanicals that can be used in food supplements. Results: In vitro studies showed the high capacity of the supplement to have an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hypolipidemic effect, accompanied by an interesting proteolytic activity. The randomized double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial, carried out on 60 women during an 8-week treatment period, confirmed the in vitro study results. SelectSIEVE® Rainbow showed a whole-body shaping activity, with a reduction of the waist, hip, and tight circumference of 0.8, 0.65 and 0.72 cm, respectively. It also showed a reduction of subcutaneous fat mass of 1.24 mm and body weight, with an average of 0.7 kg and positive peaks of −2.9 kg. Skin health and appearance were also improved: +5.4% skin elasticity, +5.5% skin tonicity and +5.7% skin draining. Finally, the dermatological evaluation of the cellulite score and microcirculation showed an improvement in 57% and 60% of the subjects enrolled in the studies. Conclusions: This first study provides interesting inputs on the effectiveness of the nutraceutical complex standardized in polyphenols, anthocyanins and proteolytic enzymes to counteract cellulite blemishes and improve local microcirculation. The positive response encourages deeper studies and further investigation.

Strategies for the production of biochemicals in bioenergy crops

Industrial crops are grown to produce goods for manufacturing. Rather than food and feed, they supply raw materials for making biofuels, pharmaceuticals, and specialty chemicals, as well as feedstocks for fabricating fiber, biopolymer, and construction materials. Therefore, such crops offer the potential to reduce our dependency on petrochemicals that currently serve as building blocks for manufacturing the majority of our industrial and consumer products. In this review, we are providing examples of metabolites synthesized in plants that can be used as bio-based platform chemicals for partial replacement of their petroleum-derived counterparts. Plant metabolic engineering approaches aiming at increasing the content of these metabolites in biomass are presented. In particular, we emphasize on recent advances in the manipulation of the shikimate and isoprenoid biosynthetic pathways, both of which being the source of multiple valuable compounds. Implementing and optimizing engineered metabolic pathways for accumulation of coproducts in bioenergy crops may represent a valuable option for enhancing the commercial value of biomass and attaining sustainable lignocellulosic biorefineries.

Two-stage cultivation strategy for the improvement of pigment productivity from high-density heterotrophic algal cultures

Herein, a two-stage cultivation process was devised to overcome low pigment content of algal biomass grown in heterotrophy. Post-treatment conditions (i.e., light intensity, temperature, pH and salinity) were initially tested for dense heterotrophically-grown Chlorella sp. HS2 cultures in a multi-channel photobioreactor (mcPBR), and the results clearly indicated the influence of each abiotic factor on algal pigment production. Subsequently, the optimal post-treatment conditions (i.e., 455 μmol m^-2 s^-1, 34.8℃, pH 8.23 and 0.7% (w/v) salinity), in which highest accumulation of algal pigments is expected, were identified using Response Surface Methodology (RSM). Compared to the control cultures grown in mixotrophy for the same duration of entire two-stage process, the results indicated a significantly higher pigment productivity (i.e., 167.5 mg L^-1 day^-1) in a 5-L fermenter following the post-treatment at optimal conditions. Collectively, these results suggest that the post-treatment of heterotrophic cultures can be successfully deployed to harness the nascent algae-based bioeconomy.

Pro-environmental behavior in nutricosmetics product purchase context

Purpose

Though the concern over pro-environmental behavior is growing, there is a lack of a valid scale to measure pro-environmental behavior in nutricosmetics context. Nutricosmetics products are believed to boost health and fitness and thus gained worldwide popularity. Many consumers in recent days are purchasing nutricosmetics products because of its positive impact toward human health and less harm toward the environment. However, to date, there is no valid instrument to measure this construct. To fill this gap in the existing literature, this study aims to develop a valid and reliable scale to measure pro-environmental behavior in nutricosmetics purchase (PEB-NP).

Design/methodology/approach

To develop and validate the PEB-NP scale, a sequential process is followed which includes item generation, item selection, item purification and item validation. Relevant literature was reviewed and qualitative interviews were carried out to generate the items. Next, experts’ opinion was sought to select the items. Two studies were conducted (N= 150,N= 448) to explore the factor structure and to validate the scale. Exploratory factor analysis (EFA) was used to purify the scale, whereas confirmatory factor analysis (CFA) using SmartPLS (version 3) was used to validate the scale.

Findings

Based on EFA output, 14 items were retained which were then validated using CFA. The results revealed that, PEB-NP is a hierarchical multi-dimensional construct. The dimensions are “environmental aesthetics,” “conservation behavior (reduce and recycle)” and “health consciousness.” The findings from CFA confirmed the EFA results and established that pro-environmental behavior is a third-order factor model in which conservation dimension is consisted of two sub-dimensions, namely, “reduce” and “recycle” behavior.

Practical implications

The newly developed scale will enable the marketers and policymakers to segment their consumers based on this scale to better strategize the marketing efforts in fulfilling their needs. Not only this, the PEB-NP scale will benefit marketers in understanding the behavioral pattern and purchase preference of the pro-environmental consumers with regard to the nutricosmetics consumption. This research also provides suggestions for future researchers in the pro-environmental behavior and nutricosmetics fields.

Originality/value

This study is a pioneer study to develop and validate the PEB scale in the context of nutricosmetics purchase.

Beauty from within: Oral administration of a sulfur-containing supplement methylsulfonylmethane improves signs of skin ageing

Abstract. Background: Methylsulfonylmethane (MSM) is an organosulfur compound with known benefits for joint health, sports nutrition, immune function, and anti‐aging formulations and is gaining popularity as a nutritional supplement for the support of hair, skin and nails. Methods: The study was conducted in two steps; in Part I (pilot study) a panel of 20 participants ingested either 3 g a day of MSM or placebo capsules for 16 weeks. Visual and subject self assessment of wrinkles and skin texture as the predominant sign of ageing was observed. In Part II (dose-response study), 63 participants ingested either 1 g or 3 g per day of MSM for 16 weeks. Expert clinical grading, instrumental measurements and consumer perception was used to evaluate skin conditions like lines and wrinkles. Additionally, instrumentational analysis was conducted using corneometer and cutometer for investigation of skin hydration, firmness and elasticity. Results: Part I of the study clearly indicates that oral ingestion of MSM (3 g/d) reduces signs of ageing like facial wrinkles ( p < 0.05) and skin roughness ( p < 0.05) as compared to placebo. Detailed analysis in Part II instrumentation assessments showed a significant ( p < 0.05) improvement from baseline in the severity of facial wrinkles, as well as improved skin firmness, elasticity and hydration with MSM. Some of these parameters exhibited a good dose-response indicating that the higher (3 g/d) of the supplement was more effective than the lower dose of 1 g/d, but generally the lower dose of 1 g/d appeared to be sufficiently effective in reducing the facial signs of ageing. Conclusion: This study indicated that MSM is effective in reducing visual signs of skin ageing even at a low dose of 1 g/d.

Carotenoids in human skin

The skin is shielding our organism from exogenous threats including solar radiation. Carotenoids which are ingested with the diet accumulate in the skin with the highest levels occurring in skin of the forehead and in the palms of the hands. Blood and skin levels of carotenoids increase during supplementation and due to their antioxidant properties and UV-absorbing effects carotenoids are used as photoprotective agents. Systemic photoprotection with carotenoids after supplementation or ingestion of a carotenoid rich diet has been demonstrated in several human intervention studies. Although protection is only moderate it may contribute to UV protection in combination with other measures. Beyond photoprotection, ingestion of carotenoids has been postulated to be of additional benefit for cutaneous tissue and influences moisture and texture or elasticity of the skin. However, only a limited number of studies is available yet to substantiate such a claim.

High-value chemicals from Botryococcus braunii and their current applications - A review

Botryococcus braunii is known for its high yield of extracellular hydrocarbons and polysaccharides. Hydrocarbons, especially botryococcenes and squalene can be used as not only fuels but also alternative feedstock for other fossil-based products. Exopolysaccharides excreted from B. braunii can be used as scaffolds for polyesters production, and have a notable potential for synthesis of nanoparticles. B. braunii is also a rich source of carotenoids, especially the unique secondary carotenoids such as botryoxanthins that have never been found in other microalgae. The morphology, physiology, and outer cell walls of B. braunii are complex. Understanding the colony structure shall provide insights into the mechanism of cell growth and chemicals secretion. It is possible to improve the production economics of the alga with advanced culture systems. Moreover, investigation of metabolic pathways for B. braunii may help us understand their regulation and provide valuable information for strain selection and optimal production of high-value chemicals.

The Impact of Herbal Products in the Prevention, Regeneration and Delay of Skin Aging

Skin aging is a complex process induced by intrinsic and extrinsic factors and causes alterations to the structural and functional aspects of the skin. Skin aging affects patients physically and physiologically. Understanding the process of skin aging can provide new knowledge on how to attenuate or reduce skin disorder symptoms. Herbs have been used for ages to prevent and treat skin aging, yet there are growing interests by researchers in this field globally. Various strategies have been developed for improving the quality and effectivity of herbal skin care products, both for topical and oral applications. This review will provide an overview of the relationship between herbal skin care products and the skin aging process.

Chemical Composition and Antioxidant Properties of Oils from the Seeds of Five Apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) Cultivars

Oils from five cultivars of apricot (Prunus armeniaca L.) grown in Poland were analysed for characteristics of chemical and biological activity. The extracted oils had an average iodine value (g of I/100 g of oil) of 99.2; a refractive index of (40°C) 1.4675; a saponification value of 189 mg of KOH/g of oil; and 0.68% unsaponifiable matter. As regards the oxidation state, the specific extinction values of the oils at 232 and 268 nm were 2.55 and 0.94, respectively, while the peroxide value was 1.40 meq O₂/kg and the p-anisidine value was 1.42. Oleic acid (70.70%) was the predominant fatty acid found in the oils, followed by linoleic (22.41%), palmitic (3.14%), stearic (1.4%), linolenic (0.90%), and palmitoleic (0.70%) acid. The content of α-, γ-, and δ- tocopherols in the oils from the five apricot cultivars was 19.6-40.0, 315.4-502.3, and 28.3-58.5 mg/kg, respectively. The antioxidant capacity of the apricot kernel oils, measured using the FRAP assay, ranged from 1.07 to 1.38 mM Fe²⁺/L, while total polyphenols and β-carotene content were 0.85-1.22 mM gallic acid/L and 42.3-66.8 μg/g, respectively. The results indicate that among the cultivars tested, the 'Somo' cultivar grown in Poland provides the most oil, with the highest antioxidant activity. The results of our study demonstrate that apricot seeds are a potential source of oil that can have both dietary and cosmetic applications.

Myrtus communis Liquor Byproduct as a Source of Bioactive Compounds

The fatty acid (FA), polyphenol content and evaluation of the antioxidant capacity of exhausted Myrtus communis berries (EMB) resulting from the production of myrtle liqueur were assessed. All parts of the exhausted berries exhibited high concentrations of carbohydrates, proteins, lipids and phenolic compounds. The lipid fraction contained a high amount of poly unsaturated fatty acids (PUFA), mainly represented by linoleic acid (>70%). Of the phenolic acids evaluated by liquid chromatography/mass spectrometry, ellagic acid was the most predominant (>50%), followed by gallic and quinic acids. Quercetin and quercetin3-O-rhamnoside were the most abundant flavonoids. The seed extracts showed a higher antioxidant potential than the pericarp extracts; the same trend was observed for total phenolic compounds evaluated by spectrophotometric assay. The overall high content of bioactive compounds and the high antioxidant potential of this byproduct sustain its suitability for a number of industrial applications, such as a food ingredient in novel foods, an additive in cosmetic formulations or a component of animal feed formulations.

Phytosomes with Persimmon (Diospyros kaki L.) Extract: Preparation and Preliminary Demonstration of In Vivo Tolerability

Persimmon (Diospyros kaki L.), a fruit rich in phenolic compounds (PCs), has been considered effective in mitigating oxidative damage induced by an excess of reactive oxygen species. Due to large molecular weight and intrinsic instability in some physiological fluids, PCs’ passage through biological membranes is very limited. Carriers like phytosomes are promising systems to optimize oral absorption of encapsulated extracts. This work prepared and fully characterized phytosomes containing bioactive phenolic extracts from persimmon in terms of size, surface charge, encapsulation efficiency and stability over six months. These phytosomes were orally dosed to Wistar rats during a 15-day period. Afterwards, haematological and biochemical analyses were performed. Monodisperse phytosomes were successfully prepared, with size less than 300nm (PI < 0.3) and high encapsulation efficiency (97.4%) of PCs. In contrast to free extract, extract-loaded phytosomes had higher antioxidant activity after 6 months storage. Oral administration of extract-loaded phytosomes and free extract did not lead to lipidic profile changes and were within referenced normal ranges, as well as glycaemia levels and urine parameters. The results highlighted the potential of persimmon PCs as food supplements or pharmacological tools, suggesting a promising and safe phytosomal formulation containing bioactive agents of persimmon that could lead to health benefits.