Bioactive Compounds for Skin Health: A Review

Osteoblast responsive biosilica-enriched gelatin microfibrillar microenvironments

Engineering of scaffolds for bone regeneration is often inspired by the native extracellular matrix mimicking its composite fibrous structure. In the present study, we used low loadings of diatomite earth (DE) biosilica to improve the bone regeneration potential of gelatin electrospun fibrillar microenvironments. We explored the effect of increasing the DE content from 1 % to 3 % and 5 %, respectively, on the physico-chemical properties of the fibrous scaffolds denoted FG_DE1, FG_DE3, FG_DE5, regarding the aqueous media affinity, stability under simulated physiological conditions, morphology characteristics, and local mechanical properties at the surface. The presence of biosilica generated composite structures with lower swelling degrees and higher stiffness when compared to gelatin fibers. Increasing DE content led to higher Young modulus, while the stability of the protein matrix in PBS, at 37 °C, over 21 was significantly decreased by the presence of diatomite loadings. The best preosteoblast response was obtained for FG_DE3, with enhanced mineralization during the osteogenic differentiation when compared to the control sample without diatomite. 5 % DE in FG_DE5 proved to negatively influence cells' metabolic activity and morphology. Hence, the obtained composite microfibrillar scaffolds might find application as osteoblast-responsive materials for bone tissue engineering.

The Role of Vitamins in Spinal Cord Injury: Mechanisms and Benefits

Spinal cord injury (SCI) is a common neurological disease worldwide, often resulting in a substantial decrease in quality of life, disability, and in severe cases, even death. Unfortunately, there is currently no effective treatment for this disease. Nevertheless, current basic and clinical evidence suggests that vitamins, with their antioxidant properties and biological functions, may play a valuable role in improving the quality of life for individuals with SCI. They can promote overall health and facilitate the healing process. In this review, we discuss the mechanisms and therapeutic potential of vitamins in the treatment of SCI.

Development of dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan for enhanced anti-aging activity: An in vivo study in mice animal model

Skin aging occurs naturally as essential skin components gradually decline, leading to issues such as fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Fucoidan, a natural bioactive compound, holds potential for addressing these age-related concerns. However, its hydrophilic nature and substantial molecular weight hinder its absorption into the skin. In this study, we utilized polyvinyl pyrrolidone K30 (PVP) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as polymers to fabricate dissolving microneedles loaded with fucoidan (DMN-F). The DMN-F formulations were examined for physical characteristics, stability, permeability, toxicity, and efficacy in animal models. These formulations exhibited consistent polymer blends with a conical structure and uniform cone-shaped design. Microneedle structure and penetration capability gradually decreased with increasing fucoidan concentration, with storage recommended at approximately 33 % relative humidity (RH). Ex vivo studies showed that DMN-F efficiently delivered up to 95.03 ± 2.36 % of the total fucoidan concentration into the skin. In vivo investigations revealed that DMN-F effectively reduced wrinkles, improved skin elasticity, maintained moisture levels, and increased epidermal thickness. Histological images provided additional evidence of DMN-F's positive effects on these aging parameters. The results confirm that the DMN-F formulation effectively delivers fucoidan into the skin, allowing it to treat and mitigate signs of aging.

Identification of the Wound Healing Activity Peptidome of Edible Bird's Nest Protein Hydrolysate and the In Silico Evaluation of Its Transport and Absorption Potential in Skin

In this study, edible bird's nest (EBN) was proven to be a suitable source of bioactive peptides via enzymatic hydrolysis. The ultrafiltration component of the EBN peptides (EBNPs, Mw < 3 000 Da) could be responsible for moderate moisture retention and filaggrin synthesis. It was found that EBNP had a great capacity to protect HaCaT keratinocytes from DNA damage caused by UVB-irradiation and enhance wound healing by increasing the migratory and proliferative potential of cells. Furthermore, the external application of EBNP could effectively repair high glycolic acid concentration-induced skin burns in mice. A total of 1 188 peptides, predominantly the hydrophobic amino acids (e.g., Leu, Val, Tyr, Phe), were identified in the EBNP by liquid chromatography with tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS). Molecular docking showed that hydrophobic tripeptides from EBNP had a good binding affinity to proton-dependent oligopeptide transporter PepT1. Our data indicated that the hydrophobic amino acid-rich EBNP plays an important role in skin wound healing.

What you need to know about common skin problems in older adults

Skin ageing is a multifaceted process impacted by both intrinsic and extrinsic factors. Drier and less elastic skin with declining sebum levels in older age makes ageing skin more vulnerable to various skin conditions, including infections, inflammatory dermatoses, and cancers. Skin problems are common among older adults due to the effects of ageing, polypharmacy and multimorbidity impacting not only physical health but wellbeing and quality of life. In the UK, older adults in geriatric medicine wards may present with various skin conditions. Hospitalised older individuals may have undiagnosed skin problems unrelated to their admission, making hospitalisation an opportunity to manage unmet needs. Asteatotic eczema, incontinence associated dermatitis, seborrhoeic dermatitis, chronic venous insufficiency, and cellulitis are common disorders clinicians encounter in the geriatric medicine wards. This article outlines the importance of performing comprehensive skin assessments to help diagnose and commence management for these common conditions.

Progress in the Use of Hydrogels for Antioxidant Delivery in Skin Wounds

The skin is the largest organ of the body, and it acts as a protective barrier against external factors. Chronic wounds affect millions of people worldwide and are associated with significant morbidity and reduced quality of life. One of the main factors involved in delayed wound healing is oxidative injury, which is triggered by the overproduction of reactive oxygen species. Oxidative stress has been implicated in the pathogenesis of chronic wounds, where it is known to impair wound healing by causing damage to cellular components, delaying the inflammatory phase of healing, and inhibiting the formation of new blood vessels. Thereby, the treatment of chronic wounds requires a multidisciplinary approach that addresses the underlying causes of the wound, provides optimal wound care, and promotes wound healing. Among the promising approaches to taking care of chronic wounds, antioxidants are gaining interest since they offer multiple benefits related to skin health. Therefore, in this review, we will highlight the latest advances in the use of natural polymers with antioxidants to generate tissue regeneration microenvironments for skin wound healing.

Intelligent Rapid Detection Techniques for Low-Content Components in Fruits and Vegetables: A Comprehensive Review

Fruits and vegetables are an important part of our daily diet and contain low-content components that are crucial for our health. Detecting these components accurately is of paramount significance. However, traditional detection methods face challenges such as complex sample processing, slow detection speed, and the need for highly skilled operators. These limitations fail to meet the growing demand for intelligent and rapid detection of low-content components in fruits and vegetables. In recent years, significant progress has been made in intelligent rapid detection technology, particularly in detecting high-content components in fruits and vegetables. However, the accurate detection of low-content components remains a challenge and has gained considerable attention in current research. This review paper aims to explore and analyze several intelligent rapid detection techniques that have been extensively studied for this purpose. These techniques include near-infrared spectroscopy, Raman spectroscopy, laser-induced breakdown spectroscopy, and terahertz spectroscopy, among others. This paper provides detailed reports and analyses of the application of these methods in detecting low-content components. Furthermore, it offers a prospective exploration of their future development in this field. The goal is to contribute to the enhancement and widespread adoption of technology for detecting low-content components in fruits and vegetables. It is expected that this review will serve as a valuable reference for researchers and practitioners in this area.

Bioactive Compounds and Potential Health Benefits through Cosmetic Applications of Cherry Stem Extract

Cherry stems, prized in traditional medicine for their potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, derive their efficacy from abundant polyphenols and anthocyanins. This makes them an ideal option for addressing skin aging and diseases. This study aimed to assess the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects of cherry stem extract for potential skincare use. To this end, the extract was first comprehensively characterized by HPLC-ESI-qTOF-MS. The extract's total phenolic content (TPC), antioxidant capacity, radical scavenging efficiency, and its ability to inhibit enzymes related to skin aging were determined. A total of 146 compounds were annotated in the cherry stem extract. The extract effectively fought against NO· and HOCl radicals with IC50 values of 2.32 and 5.4 mg/L. Additionally, it inhibited HYALase, collagenase, and XOD enzymes with IC50 values of 7.39, 111.92, and 10 mg/L, respectively. Based on the promising results that were obtained, the extract was subsequently gently integrated into a cosmetic gel at different concentrations and subjected to further stability evaluations. The accelerated stability was assessed through temperature ramping, heating-cooling cycles, and centrifugation, while the long-term stability was evaluated by storing the formulations under light and dark conditions for three months. The gel formulation enriched with cherry stem extract exhibited good stability and compatibility for topical application. Cherry stem extract may be a valuable ingredient for creating beneficial skincare cosmeceuticals.

Strategies in surface engineering for the regulation of microclimates in skin-medical product interactions

There is a growing number of personal healthcare devices that are in prolonged contact with the skin. The functionality of these products is linked to the interface formed by the contact between the medical apparatus and the skin. The interface can be characterised by its topology, compliance, and moisture and thermal regulating capabilities. Many devices are, however, described to have suboptimal and occlusive contacts, resulting in physiological unfavourable microclimates at the interface. The resulting poor management of moisture and temperature can impact the functionality and utility of the device and, in severe cases, lead to physical harm to the user. Being able to control the microclimate is therefore expected to limit medical-device related injuries and prevent associated skin complications. Surface engineering can modify and potentially enhance the regulation of the microclimate factors surrounding the interface between a product's surface and the skin. This review provides an overview of potential engineering solutions considering the needs for, and influences on, regulation of temperature and moisture by considering the skin-medical device interface as a system. These findings serve as a platform for the anticipated progress in the role of surface engineering for skin-device microclimate regulation.

Anti-aging formula protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence through the inhibition of CXCR2 expression

ETHNOPHARMACOLOGICAL RELEVANCE

The skin is affected by endogenous and exogenous factors, which are the intuitive consequence expression of aging. Aging not only affects the aesthetics of the skin but also causes the decline of skin functions, leading to many skin diseases and even skin cancer. Anti-aging formula (AAF) has various biological effects such as antioxidants, regulation of intestinal flora metabolism, anti-aging, and memory improvement. However, it is not clarified whether it could be anti-aging of the skin and the anti-aging mechanism.

AIM OF THE STUDY

This study aimed to investigate whether AAF could prevent skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence and explore the underlying molecular mechanisms.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A mouse skin oxidative stress aging model was established based on ultraviolet (UV) irradiation, and parameters such as skin water content, melanogenesis, wrinkle production, pathological changes, and aging marker proteins were measured to elucidate whether AAF has an anti-aging effect on the skin. Subsequently, transcriptome sequencing (RNA-Seq) was used to identify target genes. An in vitro cellular senescence model was established to assess the role of AAF against cellular oxidative stress senescence by detecting senescence-related markers, while the specific mechanism of action of AAF in delaying skin senescence was elucidated by silencing or overexpression of targets.

RESULTS

In vivo experiments demonstrated that AAF significantly increased skin water content, reduced skin sensitivity and melanin content, slowed wrinkles, improved UV-induced epidermal thickening, increased collagen fiber content, improved elastic fiber morphology, and reduced the expression of senescence proteins P21 and P16 in skin tissues. The RNA-Seq results identified chemokine receptor 2 (CXCR2) as one of the potential targets for delaying skin senescence. In vitro experiments showed that AAF markedly improved the aging phenotype, and knockdown or overexpression experiments verified the essential role of CXCR2 in the skin senescence process. Mechanistic studies suggested that AAF inhibited the P38/P53 pathway by reducing CXCR2 expression, which improved the aging phenotype, reduced oxidative damage, and ultimately delayed cellular senescence.

CONCLUSION

The results reveal that AAF protects skin from oxidative stress-induced senescence by regulating the expression of critical target CXCR2, reducing P38 protein phosphorylation, and inhibiting P53 pathway activation. These discoveries implicate the potential of AAF in the protection of skin aging disease.

Dynamic Changes in Egg Quality, Heritability and Correlation of These Traits and Yolk Nutrient throughout the Entire Laying Cycle

Egg quality and nutritional value are becoming increasingly important to consumers, offering a new direction for the development of high-quality eggs. In this study, we conducted a comprehensive analysis of egg quality and nutrient profiles in native breeds at different ages, integrating pedigree data. Our results reveal dynamic changes in egg qualities, stronger associations among eggshell-related traits, and the effect of onset production and body weight on egg qualities. The heritability of different traits was estimated, ranging from 0.05 to 0.62. Subsequently, we elucidated that the moisture and nutritional content in the egg yolk were not influenced by the percentage of yolk but were indeed subject to age regulation. There was a notable decrease in moisture, an elevation in crude fat, and an increase in the diversity of fatty acids of yolk with advancing age. In summary, investigating the trends and interrelationships in egg quality, nutrient content, and heritability across the whole laying cycle offers valuable insights for breeders to optimize feeding management strategies and aids consumers in meeting their expectations of egg quality.

Antioxidants with proven efficacy and elastin-conserving vitamin C-A new approach to free radical defense

BACKGROUND

This paper describes the background research and validation related to the formulation of a novel antioxidant product. Two defined outcomes were sought. Firstly, a combined efficacy of antioxidant ingredients in quenching free oxygen radicals. Secondly, the investigation into whether a vitamin C derivative sodium salt was elastin conserving in contrast to current vitamin C/l-ascorbic acid variations that have been reported to negatively affect elastin constitution and regeneration.

MATERIALS AND METHODS

A leading l-ascorbic acid antioxidant available on the market was compared with the experimental new product in two studies. In the first experiment, the products were compared to assess their antioxidant properties. The evaluated products TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 1 and TOPICAL ANTIOXIDANT 2 were applied to human skin cultures (25-30 mg/cm2 ) for a total of 72 h of treatment and exposed to oxidative stress. The generation of free radicals was semi-quantitatively assessed by measuring the fluorescence intensity of the deacetylation and oxidation of the probe dichlorofluorescein diacetate (DCFH-DA). In the second experiment, an ex vivo skin model (derived from patients undergoing facelift procedures) was used to assess elastin preservation. Three skin explants were topically subjected to the two formulations daily for 7 days. The skin was then prepared and fixed for immunofluorescent assessment after staining with CD44 and tropoelastin antibodies. Images were then analyzed using ImageJ.

RESULTS

A full description of the different components selected for the new formulation is presented. In the first study, the experimental formulation performed with absolute equivalence to the comparator in its radical quenching capacity; both showed extremely effective antioxidant function. In the second study, the comparator negatively affected the existing elastin with areas of breakdown and diminished staining. In contrast, the new formulation showed good conservation of healthy elastin in all sections demonstrating elastin preservation.

CONCLUSION

A new antioxidant formulation was carefully designed with multiple actives that show an equivalent antioxidant capacity to a leading product on the market. More importantly, the vitamin C component shows direct elastin conservation and improvement as opposed to the comparator, which had negative effects on elastin preservation. This is in keeping with little-known literature reports on vitamin C and its negative effects on elastin and validates the use of a sodium salt derivative, which appears to have protective effects on elastin. These findings support the overall regenerative extracellular matrix changes seen with TriHex® technology in other products.

Plants with cosmetic uses

The use of plants as a source of active principles for cosmetics has significantly increased in the last few years. Safety, compatibility with all types of skin, fewer side effects, and availability are among the advantages of herbal cosmetics above synthetic ingredients. The present review aims to explore the most important plants used in cosmetics. A literature search was carried out in several electronic databases with the following phrases: skincare and plants; cosmetics and plants; natural and cosmetics; and natural and skincare. Furthermore, more detailed filters such as clinical studies, meta-analyses, and systemic reviews were applied to positive results. Various plants and plant extracts currently used in skin care, scaring, whitening, and aging, as well as in sun protection, acne, eczema, and others, have been included in this review. The effectiveness of these plants is based mainly on preclinical research, and to a lesser extent on clinical studies. Some plant extracts or oils have been tested clinically, such as onions, aloe, and tea tree oil, more than other plant extracts. Despite many studies on natural products to improve dermal needs, proper clinical cosmeceutical trials are much fewer than expected. Therefore, more clinical trials are needed to evaluate appropriate efficacy. Furthermore, new formulation technologies might enhance the cosmeceutical benefits, but more work is warranted.

Moringa oleifera: a valuable insight into recent advances in medicinal uses and pharmacological activities

Moringa oleifera is an important medicinal plant in several countries; for example, Nigeria, the USA, Turkey, Germany, Greece, and Ukraine. The abundant bioactive and nutritional properties of this plant make it useful in many and diverse areas of life, including the health, cosmetic, agricultural, and food industries to mention but a few. Research has found that the presence of proteins, carbohydrates, lipids, vitamins, minerals, flavonoids, phenols, alkaloids, fatty acids, saponins, essential oils, folate, aromatic hydrocarbons, sterols, glucosinolates, and glycosides, among others, characterize the moringa nutrient profile and, as a result, give rise to its remedial effects on ailments such as wounds, stomach and duodenal ulcers, allergies, obesity, diabetes, inflammation, asthma, and so on. It is the aim of this review to provide an insight into such medicinal and pharmacological remedies attributed to moringa, stating both the past and recent discoveries. This review article also takes a look into the botanical features, bioactive compounds, antinutrients, food applications, bacterial fermentation products, biosafety, industrial applications, and other uses of moringa. Finally, with the belief that knowledge is progressive, we acknowledge that there are things yet undiscovered about this wonder plant that will be of value both to medicine and general life; we therefore recommend that research work continues on the moringa plant. © 2023 Society of Chemical Industry.

Non-invasive assessment of skin hydration and sensation with diffuse reflectance spectroscopy

The skin is a vital organ in the human body, providing essential functions such as protection, sensation, and metabolism. Skin hydration is one of the crucial factors in maintaining normal skin function. Insufficient skin hydration can lead to dryness, shedding of the stratum corneum, a decrease in skin barrier function, and may cause skin inflammation. Therefore, maintaining or improving skin hydration is critical in promoting healthy skin. Currently, the commonly used method for measuring skin hydration is bioelectrical capacitance analysis, which is often affected by environmental humidity and can only provide limited information. To overcome these limitations, this study used diffuse reflectance spectroscopy (DRS) in the wavelength range of 400-1000 nm to quantify skin absorption and scattering modulation caused by changes in skin hydration states. The advantages of this technique include rapid measurements, non-invasiveness, a straightforward optical setup, and suitability for prolonged skin monitoring. We found that DRS-derived skin absorption coefficients had a correlation coefficient of 0.93 with the skin capacitance at various skin hydration states. In addition, our findings reveal that absorption and scattering coefficients may be useful in discerning skin hydration enhancement induced by applying soaked cotton pads or cosmeceutical facial masks, as well as evaluating skin sensation. This study verifies that the DRS method could be a convenient and effective tool for evaluating skin hydration related information.

Assessing the Anti-Aging and Wound Healing Capabilities of Etlingera elatior Inflorescence Extract: A Comparison of Three Inflorescence Color Varieties

Torch ginger, Etlingera elatior, is a Zingiberaceae plant with various red, pink, and white inflorescence. The wound healing potential and anti-aging effects of freeze-dried torch ginger inflorescence extracts (FTIEs) from three varieties were compared. The red FTIE had the highest content of phenolic, flavonoid, caffeoylquinic acid, and chlorogenic acid, followed by the white and pink FTIE. Consistent with the chemical constituents, the red FTIE demonstrated the greatest capacities for free radical scavenging, anti-tyrosinase, and anti-collagenase activity, followed by the white and pink FTIE. In cell-based studies, FTIEs displayed cytotoxicity to B16F10 melanoma cells, with the red FTIE showing the greatest activity (LC50 of 115.5 μg/mL). In contrast, the pink and the white FTIEs had less cytotoxicity impact. Nonetheless, at 1000 μg/mL, all three FTIE variants were safe on L929 fibroblasts or RAW 264.7 monocyte cells. White FTIE (500 μg/mL) exhibited the highest activity in stimulating collagen production and the greatest impact on cell migration, whereas the pink and red FTIE had a lesser effect. All FTIEs slightly suppressed the pro-inflammatory cytokines produced by lipopolysaccharide-stimulated monocytes, with no significant variation between FTIE variants. In conclusion, all FTIEs revealed promising potential for anti-aging cosmeceuticals and wound care products at specific concentrations.

Recent Advances in Molecularly Imprinted Polymers and Their Disease-Related Applications

Molecularly imprinted polymers (MIPs) and the imprinting technique provide polymeric material with recognition elements similar to natural antibodies. The template of choice (i.e., the antigen) can be almost any type of smaller or larger molecule, protein, or even tissue. There are various formats of MIPs developed for different medical purposes, such as targeting, imaging, assay diagnostics, and biomarker detection. Biologically applied MIPs are widely used and currently developed for medical applications, and targeting the antigen with MIPs can also help in personalized medicine. The synthetic recognition sites of the MIPs can be tailor-made to function as analytics, diagnostics, and drug delivery systems. This review will cover the promising clinical applications of different MIP systems recently developed for disease diagnosis and treatment.

Nutrient-Based Approaches for Melanoma: Prevention and Therapeutic Insights

Melanoma, a prevalent and lethal form of skin cancer, remains a formidable challenge in terms of prevention and treatment. While significant progress has been made in understanding its pathogenesis and treatment, the quest for effective prevention strategies and therapeutic approaches remains ongoing. Considering the increased advancements in understanding the dynamic interplay between nutrients and melanoma, we aim to offer a refreshed perspective on nutrient-based approaches for melanoma prevention and adjunctive therapy. In contrast to other studies, we have innovatively provided a detailed exposition of the nutrients' influences on melanoma prognosis and treatment. This review firstly examines various nutrients, including antioxidants (namely vitamins A, D, C, and E; selenium; and caffeine), polyunsaturated fatty acids, and flavonoids, for their effects and underlying mechanisms in reducing melanoma risk. Among these nutrients, caffeine shows the most promising potential, as it is supported by multiple cohort studies for its protective effect against melanoma. In contrast, there is a certain degree of inconsistency in the research of other nutrients, possibly due to inherent differences between animal studies and epidemiological research, as well as variations in the definition of nutrient intake. To comprehensively investigate the impact of nutrients on melanoma progression and therapeutic approaches, the following sections will explore how nutrients influence immune responses and other physiological processes. While there is robust support from cell and animal studies regarding the immunomodulatory attributes of vitamins D and zinc, the anti-angiogenic potential of polyphenols, and the cell growth-inhibitory effects of flavonoids, the limited availability of human-based research substantially constrains their practical relevance in clinical contexts. As for utilizing nutrients in adjuvant melanoma treatments, multiple approaches have garnered clinical research support, including the utilization of vitamin D to decrease the postoperative recurrence rates among melanoma patients and the adoption of a high-fiber diet to enhance the effectiveness of immunotherapy. In general, the effects of most nutrients on reducing the risk of melanoma are not entirely clear. However, several nutrients, including vitamin D and dietary fiber, have demonstrated their potential to improve the melanoma prognosis and enhance the treatment outcomes, making them particularly deserving of clinical attention. A personalized and interdisciplinary approach, involving dermatologists, oncologists, nutritionists, and researchers, holds the promise of optimizing melanoma treatment strategies.

Plant Extracts as Skin Care and Therapeutic Agents

Natural ingredients have been used for centuries for skin treatment and care. Interest in the health effects of plants has recently increased due to their safety and applicability in the formulation of pharmaceuticals and cosmetics. Long-known plant materials as well as newly discovered ones are increasingly being used in natural products of plant origin. This review highlights the beneficial effects of plants and plant constituents on the skin, including moisturizing (e.g., Cannabis sativa, Hydrangea serrata, Pradosia mutisii and Carthamus tinctorius), anti-aging (e.g., Aegopodium podagraria, Euphorbia characias, Premna odorata and Warburgia salutaris), antimicrobial (e.g., Betula pendula and Epilobium angustifolium), antioxidant (e.g., Kadsura coccinea, Rosmarinus officinalis, Rubus idaeus and Spatholobus suberectus), anti-inflammatory (e.g., Antidesma thwaitesianum, Helianthus annuus, Oenanthe javanica, Penthorum chinense, Ranunculus bulumei and Zanthoxylum bungeanum), regenerative (e.g., Aloe vera, Angelica polymorpha, Digitaria ciliaris, Glycyrrihza glabra and Marantodes pumilum), wound healing (e.g., Agrimonia eupatoria, Astragalus floccosus, Bursera morelensis, Jatropha neopauciflora and Sapindus mukorossi), photoprotective (e.g., Astragalus gombiformis, Calea fruticose, Euphorbia characias and Posoqueria latifolia) and anti-tyrosinase activity (e.g., Aerva lanata, Bruguiera gymnorhiza, Dodonaea viscosa, Lonicera japonica and Schisandra chinensis), as well as their role as excipients in cosmetics (coloring (e.g., Beta vulgaris, Centaurea cyanus, Hibiscus sabdariffa and Rubia tinctiorum), protective and aromatic agents (e.g., Hyssopus officinalis, Melaleuca alternifolia, Pelargonium graveolens and Verbena officinalis)).

A Narrative Review: The Effect and Importance of Carotenoids on Aging and Aging-Related Diseases

Aging is generally defined as a time-dependent functional decline that affects most living organisms. The positive increase in life expectancy has brought along aging-related diseases. Oxidative stress caused by the imbalance between pro-oxidants and antioxidants can be given as one of the causes of aging. At the same time, the increase in oxidative stress and reactive oxygen species (ROS) is main reason for the increase in aging-related diseases such as cardiovascular, neurodegenerative, liver, skin, and eye diseases and diabetes. Carotenoids, a natural compound, can be used to change the course of aging and aging-related diseases, thanks to their highly effective oxygen-quenching and ROS-scavenging properties. Therefore, in this narrative review, conducted using the PubMed, ScienceDirect, and Google Scholar databases and complying with the Scale for the Assessment of Narrative Review Articles (SANRA) guidelines, the effects of carotenoids on aging and aging-related diseases were analyzed. Carotenoids are fat-soluble, highly unsaturated pigments that occur naturally in plants, fungi, algae, and photosynthetic bacteria. A large number of works have been conducted on carotenoids in relation to aging and aging-related diseases. Animal and human studies have found that carotenoids can significantly reduce obesity and fatty liver, lower blood sugar, and improve liver fibrosis in cirrhosis, as well as reduce the risk of cardiovascular disease and erythema formation, while also lowering glycated hemoglobin and fasting plasma glucose levels. Carotenoid supplementation may be effective in preventing and delaying aging and aging-related diseases, preventing and treating eye fatigue and dry eye disease, and improving macular function. These pigments can be used to stop, delay, or treat aging-related diseases due to their powerful antioxidant, restorative, anti-proliferative, anti-inflammatory, and anti-aging properties. As an increasingly aging population emerges globally, this review could provide an important prospective contribution to public health.

A green-based approach for noninvasive skin rejuvenation: Potential application of hyaluronic acid

Gradually, loss of skin elasticity and elastic properties occurs after 30 years of age and will be associated with several changes, including creating wrinkles, skin laxity (sagging skin), and skin blemishes. In general, people all over the world are looking for ways to keep their facial skin young over time. There are several strategies to skin rejuvenate, including invasive and non-invasive methods. However, invasive methods have less popularity than non-invasive methods due to their need for specialist physicians (medical expertise), localized neuropathic pains for patients, the prevalence and incidence of skin infections, and high-cost clinical services. In the meantime, skin hydration is one of the simplest non-invasive methods for skin rejuvenation, and HA, with anti-aging and skin collagen-stimulating properties, has been introduced as a natural skin moisturizing agent. Therefore, since this composition maintains facial skin moisture and radiance, and improves its elasticity, it has always been considered by experts and specialist physicians. On the other hand, due to its lipophilic properties, hydrophilic macromolecules containing HA cannot pass through the stratum corneum. However, they have temporary and superficial softening effects on the skin. Hence, some nanocarriers have been suggested to overcome this problem and develop the properties and positive influences of HA on skin rejuvenation. Therefore, the present study aimed to introduce some new non-invasive approaches in facial skin rejuvenation, including applying liposomes, niosomes, ethosomes, and ionic liquids, to transport HA into the inner and deeper layers of the skin, including Dermis. In this review article, we examine non-invasive methods using nanoparticles to deliver HA to the epidermis and dermis of the skin for skin rejuvenation.

Clinical study of a spray containing birch juice for repairing sensitive skin

Sensitive skin is described as an unpleasant sensory response to a stimulus that should not cause a sensation. Sensitive skin affects an increasing proportion of the population. Sixty-seven participants who tested positive to lactic acid sting test were recruited and randomized into two groups to observe the clinical efficacy and safety of a new birch juice spray for repairing sensitive skin. One group used test spray A, while the other group used spray B as a control. Both groups were sprayed six times daily for 28 days. Noninvasive testing instruments were used to measure stratum corneum hydration, sebum content, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion and current perception threshold before and after using spray. Facial images were captured by VISIA-CR, and the image analysis program (Image-Pro Plus) was used to analyze these to obtain the redness value of the facial skin. Moreover, lactic acid sting test scores and participants' self-assessments were also performed at baseline, week 2 and week 4. Both sprays A and B significantly decreased the lactic acid sting test score, transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and redness, while increasing the stratum corneum hydration. Compared to spray B, spray A increased sensory nerve thresholds at 5 Hz and decreased the transepidermal water loss rates, skin blood perfusion, and lactic acid sting test score. Sprays containing birch juice improved cutaneous biophysical properties in participants with sensitive skin.

Alginate and Nanocellulose Dressings With Extract From Salmon Roe Reduce Inflammation and Accelerate Healing of Porcine Burn Wounds

Partial-thickness thermal burn wounds are characterized by a prolonged inflammatory response, oxidative stress, tissue damage, and secondary necrosis. An optimal dressing for burn wounds would reduce inflammation and oxidative stress while providing a moist, absorbent, and protective cover. We have developed an extract from unfertilized salmon roe containing components with potential anti-inflammatory and antioxidative properties, called HTX. HTX has been combined with alginate from brown algae and nanocellulose from tunicates, and 3D printed into a solid hydrogel wound dressing called Collex. Here, Collex was tested on partial thickness burn wounds in Göttingen minipigs compared to Jelonet, and a variant of Collex without HTX. We found that dermal treatment of burn wounds with Collex resulted in accelerated healing at a majority of measured points over 23 days, compared to treatment with Jelonet. In comparison to Collex without HTX, Collex enhanced healing in the first week after trauma where wound progression was pronounced. Notably, Collex reduced the inflammatory response in the early post-injury phase. The anti-inflammatory response of Collex was investigated in more detail on activated M1 macrophages. We found that Collex, as well as HTX alone, significantly reduced the secretion of pro-inflammatory interleukin-1β as well as intracellular levels of oxidative stress. The results from this study indicate that Collex is a potent dressing for the treatment of burn wounds, with the anti-inflammatory effect of HTX beneficial in the initial phase, and the moist qualities of the hydrogel favorable both in the initial and the proceeding proliferative phase of wound healing.

Unveiling Skin Manifestations: Exploring Cutaneous Signs of Malnutrition in Eating Disorders

The intricate interplay between eating disorders, malnutrition, and their cutaneous manifestations is the focal point of this comprehensive review. The review delves into the clinical significance of recognising and understanding these visible signs in the context of eating disorders. It highlights the vital role of nutrition in maintaining healthy skin and addresses the challenges associated with relying solely on cutaneous signs for diagnosis. Emphasising a multidisciplinary approach involving dermatologists, psychiatrists, and nutritionists, the review underscores the holistic nature of the treatment. Addressing psychological aspects alongside nutritional rehabilitation is underscored with a forward-looking perspective on future research avenues. This review is valuable for healthcare professionals by synthesising existing knowledge and identifying research gaps. It aims to improve the diagnosis, treatment, and preventative strategies for individuals dealing with the complex challenges of eating disorders and malnutrition.

Krill Oil's Protective Benefits against Ultraviolet B-Induced Skin Photoaging in Hairless Mice and In Vitro Experiments

Krill oil (KO) shows promise as a natural marine-derived ingredient for improving skin health. This study investigated its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle, and moisturizing effects on skin cells and UVB-induced skin photoaging in hairless mice. In vitro assays on HDF, HaCaT, and B16/F10 cells, as well as in vivo experiments on 60 hairless mice were conducted. A cell viability assay, diphenyl-1-picryhydrazyl (DPPH) radical scavenging activity test, elastase inhibition assay, procollagen content test, MMP-1 inhibition test, and hyaluronan production assay were used to experiment on in vitro cell models. Mice received oral KO administration (100, 200, or 400 mg/kg) once a day for 15 weeks and UVB radiation three times a week. L-Ascorbic acid (L-AA) was orally administered at 100 mg/kg once daily for 15 weeks, starting from the initial ultraviolet B (UVB) exposures. L-AA administration followed each UVB session (0.18 J/cm2) after one hour. In vitro, KO significantly countered UVB-induced oxidative stress, reduced wrinkles, and prevented skin water loss by enhancing collagen and hyaluronic synthesis. In vivo, all KO dosages showed dose-dependent inhibition of oxidative stress-induced inflammatory photoaging-related skin changes. Skin mRNA expressions for hyaluronan synthesis and collagen synthesis genes also increased dose-dependently after KO treatment. Histopathological analysis confirmed that krill oil (KO) ameliorated the damage caused by UVB-irradiated skin tissues. The results imply that KO could potentially act as a positive measure in diminishing UVB-triggered skin photoaging and address various skin issues like wrinkles and moisturization when taken as a dietary supplement.

Deep-Learning Enabled Active Biomimetic Multifunctional Hydrogel Electronic Skin

There is huge demand for recreating human skin with the functions of epidermis and dermis for interactions with the physical world. Herein, a biomimetic, ultrasensitive, and multifunctional hydrogel-based electronic skin (BHES) was proposed. Its epidermis function was mimicked using poly(ethylene terephthalate) with nanoscale wrinkles, enabling accurate identification of materials through the capabilities to gain/lose electrons during contact electrification. Internal mechanoreceptor was mimicked by interdigital silver electrodes with stick-slip sensing capabilities to identify textures/roughness. The dermis function was mimicked by patterned microcone hydrogel, achieving pressure sensors with high sensitivity (17.32 mV/Pa), large pressure range (20-5000 Pa), low detection limit, and fast response (10 ms)/recovery time (17 ms). Assisted by deep learning, this BHES achieved high accuracy and minimized interference in identifying materials (95.00% for 10 materials) and textures (97.20% for four roughness cases). By integrating signal acquisition/processing circuits, a wearable drone control system was demonstrated with three-degree-of-freedom movement and enormous potentials for soft robots, self-powered human-machine interaction interfaces of digital twins.

Characteristics of a Lipid Hydrogel and Bigel as Matrices for Ascorbic Acid Stabilization

Ascorbic acid (AA) has many health benefits, including immune and cardiovascular deficiency protection, prenatal problems, and skin diseases. Unfortunately, AA is easily oxidized and has limited bioavailability. Thus, the development of formulations that stabilize and enhance the efficacy of AA is a challenge. In this study, 4% AA was encapsulated in two recently developed gels, a hydrogel and a bigel. The hydrogel was formed exclusively with lipids and water, and the bigel was a combination of the hydrogel with an oleogel formed with olive oil and beeswax. The effect of AA in gel microstructures was determined using X-ray scattering, rheology, and texture analysis. Additionally, the capacity of these materials to protect AA from degradation upon temperature and sunlight was studied. Results showed that the incorporation of AA into both materials did not affect their microstructure. Moreover, hydrogel-protected AA showed only 2% degradation after three months at 8 °C, while in aqueous solution, it degraded by 12%. Regarding sunlight, bigel showed a good shielding effect, exhibiting only 2% AA degradation after 22 h of exposure, whereas in aqueous solution, AA degraded by 10%. These results suggest that both proposed gels could be used in biomedical applications and the field of food.

Bioactive Compounds for Customized Brain Health: What Are We and Where Should We Be Heading?

Many strides have been made in the field of nutrition that are making it an attractive field not only to nutrition professionals but also to healthcare practitioners. Thanks to the emergence of molecular nutrition, there is a better appreciation of how the diet modulates health at the cellular and molecular levels. More importantly, the advancements in brain imaging have produced a greater appreciation of the impact of diet on brain health. To date, our understanding of the effect of nutrients on brain health goes beyond the action of vitamins and minerals and dives into the intracellular, molecular, and epigenetic effects of nutrients. Bioactive compounds (BCs) in food are gaining a lot of attention due to their ability to modulate gene expression. In addition, bioactive compounds activate some nuclear receptors that are the target of many pharmaceuticals. With the emergence of personalized medicine, gaining an understanding of the biologically active compounds may help with the customization of therapies. This review explores the prominent BCs that can impact cognitive functions and mental health to deliver a potentially prophylactic framework for practitioners. Another purpose is to identify potential gaps in the literature to suggest new research agendas for scientists.

Development of fast dissolving polymer-based microneedles for delivery of an antigenic melanoma cell membrane

Delivery of cancer cell membranes (CM) is a new approach for the activation of the immune system and the induction of immunotherapy of cancer. Local delivery of melanoma CM into skin can induce efficient immune stimulation of antigen presenting cells (APCs), such as dendritic cells. In the current study, fast dissolving microneedles (MNs) were developed for the delivery of melanoma B16F10 CM. Two polymers were tested for the fabrication of MNs: poly(methyl vinyl ether-co-maleic acid) (PMVE-MA) and hyaluronic acid (HA). The incorporation of CM in MNs was achieved through coating of the MNs using a multi-step layering procedure or the micromolding technique. The CM loading and its stabilization were improved by adding sugars (sucrose and trehalose) and a surfactant (Poloxamer 188), respectively. In an ex vivo experiment, both PMVE-MA and HA showed fast dissolutions (<30 s) after insertion into porcine skin. However, HA-MN showed better mechanical properties, namely improved resistance to fracture when submitted to a compression force. Overall, a B16F10 melanoma CM-dissolving MN system was efficiently developed as a promising device suggesting further studies in immunotherapy and melanoma applications.

Identification of anti-photoaging components of Olea europaea leaves based on spectrum-effect relationship

In this study, to identify bioactive components of Olea europaea leaves extract (OLE), chemometrics analyses including bivariate correlation analysis and partial least squares regression were used to establish the relationships between the chromatograms and anti-photoaging effect of OLE samples. Firstly, the fingerprint of olive leaves extract was determined by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC). Photoaging models of HaCaT cells were established by UVB irradiation. The photoaging resistance of OLE was evaluated by cell viability using the MTT assay. Chemometrics analyses showed that compounds 14, 19, 20, 24, 26, and 28 might be the major anti-photoaging components of OLE. Furthermore, after separation by HSCCC and NMR identification, compound 19 is luteoloside and compound 24 is oleuropein. Oleuropein and luteoloside were docked with collagenase (MMP-1), stromelysin (MMP-3), and gelatinase (MMP-9), respectively. The results showed that oleuropein and luteoloside inhibited their activity by directly interacting with MMP-1, MMP-3, and MMP-9, thereby exhibiting anti-photoaging activity. The current bioassay and spectrum-effect relationships are proper for associating sample quality with the active ingredient, and our finding would provide foundation and further understanding of the quality evaluation and quality control of Olea europaea.

Development of an All-Marine 3D Printed Bioactive Hydrogel Dressing for Treatment of Hard-to-Heal Wounds

Current standard wound care involves dressings that provide moisture and protection; however, dressings providing active healing are still scarce and expensive. We aimed to develop an ecologically sustainable 3D printed bioactive hydrogel-based topical wound dressing targeting healing of hard-to-heal wounds, such as chronic or burn wounds, which are low on exudate. To this end, we developed a formulation composed of renewable marine components; purified extract from unfertilized salmon roe (heat-treated X, HTX), alginate from brown seaweed, and nanocellulose from tunicates. HTX is believed to facilitate the wound healing process. The components were successfully formulated into a 3D printable ink that was used to create a hydrogel lattice structure. The 3D printed hydrogel showed a HTX release profile enhancing pro-collagen I alpha 1 production in cell culture with potential of promoting wound closure rates. The dressing has recently been tested on burn wounds in Göttingen minipigs and shows accelerated wound closure and reduced inflammation. This paper describes the dressings development, mechanical properties, bioactivity, and safety.

Exploring the Relationship between Micronutrients and Athletic Performance: A Comprehensive Scientific Systematic Review of the Literature in Sports Medicine

The aim of this systematic review is twofold: (i) to examine the effects of micronutrient intake on athletic performance and (ii) to determine the specific micronutrients, such as vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants, that offer the most significant enhancements in terms of athletic performance, with the goal of providing guidance to athletes and coaches in optimizing their nutritional strategies. The study conducted a systematic search of electronic databases (i.e., PubMed, Web of Science, Scopus) using keywords pertaining to micronutrients, athletic performance, and exercise. The search involved particular criteria of studies published in English between 1950 and 2023. The findings suggest that vitamins and minerals are crucial for an athlete's health and physical performance, and no single micronutrient is more important than others. Micronutrients are necessary for optimal metabolic body's functions such as energy production, muscle growth, and recovery, which are all important for sport performance. Meeting the daily intake requirement of micronutrients is essential for athletes, and while a balanced diet that includes healthy lean protein sources, whole grains, fruits, and vegetables is generally sufficient, athletes who are unable to meet their micronutrient needs due to malabsorption or specific deficiencies may benefit from taking multivitamin supplements. However, athletes should only take micronutrient supplements with the consultation of a specialized physician or nutritionist and avoid taking them without confirming a deficiency.

Effects of 20-hydroxyecdysone on UVB-induced photoaging in hairless mice

We recently reported that exposure of skin to ultraviolet B (UVB) irradiation for 2 weeks induces stress and accelerates skin aging. Interestingly, aldosterone synthase is known to be crucial in generating UVB-induced stress-related responses, suggesting that drugs that regulate its activity can be used as skin antiaging agents. Through extensive drug screening, we have identified 20-hydroxyecdysone (20E), a steroidal prohormone secreted by the prothoracic glands of insects, as a potent inhibitor of UVB-induced aging. Although 20E has been shown to exert antistress and anti-collagenase effects in vitro, its effects in vivo remain unexplored. Furthermore, the pharmacological and physiological effects of 20E on UVB-mediated photoaging are poorly understood. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the effects of 20E on aldosterone synthase and UVB-induced photoaging and skin lesions in hairless mice, focusing on the stress-related hypothalamic-pituitary-adrenal axis. We confirmed that 20E inhibited aldosterone synthase and reduced corticosterone levels. When applied to a UV-induced skin aging animal model, it ameliorated UV-induced stress and protected against the decrease in collagen levels. Importantly, when the aldosterone synthase inhibitor osilodrostat, an FDA-approved drug, was applied to the UV-induced skin aging model, the stress-reducing and antiaging effects of 20E were not observed. Thus, we conclude that 20E inhibits UVB-induced skin aging by blocking aldosterone synthase and is a potential candidate to prevent skin aging.

Succinoglycan riclin relieves UVB-induced skin injury with anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory properties

Excessive UVB exposure increases the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which causes oxidative damage and epidermal inflammation. Previous studies have identified that the succinoglycan riclin has potent anti-inflammatory properties. The current study aims to investigate whether riclin protects against UVB-induced photodamage. In vitro, riclin demonstrated excellent moisture-preserving properties, along with antioxidant potential by scavenging superoxide anions, hydroxyl and DPPH radicals. Riclin increased Col1α1 and Col3α1 expression in NIH3T3 cells, inhibited oxidation and melanin synthesis by B16F10 cells upon UVB irradiation. In vivo, topical application of riclin effectively attenuated UVB-induced skin damage in C57BL6 mice, which was characterized by erythema, epidermal hyperplasia, hydroxyproline loss and ROS production in skin tissue. Riclin suppressed skin inflammation by the elevation of TNF-α, IL-6, IL-β, and alleviated UVB-induced immune cell up-regulation. Moreover, treatment with a Dectin-1 inhibitor reversed the protective effect of riclin in THP-1 cells.

Design and Characterization of an Ethosomal Gel Encapsulating Rosehip Extract

Rising environmental awareness drives green consumers to purchase sustainable cosmetics based on natural bioactive compounds. The aim of this study was to deliver Rosa canina L. extract as a botanical ingredient in an anti-aging gel using an eco-friendly approach. Rosehip extract was first characterized in terms of its antioxidant activity through a DPPH assay and ROS reduction test and then encapsulated in ethosomal vesicles with different percentages of ethanol. All formulations were characterized in terms of size, polydispersity, zeta potential, and entrapment efficiency. Release and skin penetration/permeation data were obtained through in vitro studies, and cell viability was assessed using an MTT assay on WS1 fibroblasts. Finally, ethosomes were incorporated in hyaluronic gels (1% or 2% w/v) to facilitate skin application, and rheological properties were studied. Rosehip extract (1 mg/mL) revealed a high antioxidant activity and was successfully encapsulated in ethosomes containing 30% ethanol, having small sizes (225.4 ± 7.0 nm), low polydispersity (0.26 ± 0.02), and good entrapment efficiency (93.41 ± 5.30%). This formulation incorporated in a hyaluronic gel 1% w/v showed an optimal pH for skin application (5.6 ± 0.2), good spreadability, and stability over 60 days at 4 °C. Considering sustainable ingredients and eco-friendly manufacturing technology, the ethosomal gel of rosehip extract could be an innovative and green anti-aging skincare product.

Recent advances in encapsulation of fat-soluble vitamins using polysaccharides, proteins, and lipids: A review on delivery systems, formulation, and industrial applications

Fat-soluble vitamins (FSVs) offer a range of beneficial properties as important nutrients in human nutrition. However, the high susceptibility to environmental conditions such as high temperature, light, and oxygen leads to the degradation of these compounds. This review highlights the different formulations underlying the encapsulation of FSVs in biopolymer (polysaccharide and protein) and lipid-based micro or nanocarriers for potential applications in food and pharmaceutical industries. In particular, the function of these carrier systems in terms of encapsulation efficiency, stability, bioavailability, and bio-accessibility is critically discussed. Recently, tremendous attention has been paid to encapsulating FSVs in commercial applications. According to the chemical nature of the active compound, the vigilant selection of delivery formulation, method of encapsulation, and final application (type of food) are the key important factors to be considered in the encapsulation of FSVs to ensure a high loading capacity, stability, bioavailability, and bio-accessibility. Future studies are recommended on the effect of different vitamin types and micro and nano encapsulate sizes on bioaccessibility and biocompatibility through in vitro/in vivo studies. Moreover, the toxicity and safety evaluation of encapsulated FSVs in human health should be evaluated before commercial application in food and pharmaceuticals.

Biological Evaluation of the Antibacterial Retinoid CD437 in Cutibacterium acnes Infection

Acne vulgaris is a complex skin disease involving infection by Cutibacterium acnes, inflammation, and hyperkeratinization. We evaluated the activity of the retinoid 6-[3-(adamantyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]-2-naphthalene carboxylic acid (CD437) and 16 other retinoid analogs as potential anti-C. acnes compounds and found that CD437 displayed the highest antimicrobial activity with an MIC against C. acnes (ATCC 6919 and HM-513) of 1 μg/mL. CD437 demonstrated an MBC of 2 μg/mL compared to up to 64 μg/mL for the retinoid adapalene and up to 16 μg/mL for tetracycline, which are commonly used clinically to treat acne. Membrane permeability assays demonstrated that exposure of C. acnes ATCC 6919 to CD437 damaged the integrity of C. acnes ATCC 6919 bacterial membranes, and this finding was confirmed with scanning electron microscopy. Additionally, CD437 downregulated the expression of C. acnes ATCC 6919 virulence factors, including the genes encoding Christie-Atkins-Munch-Petersen factor 1 (CAMP1), CAMP2, glycerol-ester hydrolase B (GehB), sialidase B, and neuraminidase. In a mouse skin infection model of C. acnes ATCC 6919, topical treatment with CD437 ameliorated skin lesions and reduced the bacterial burden in situ (P < 0.001). In human NHEK primary cells, CD437 reduced the transcriptional levels of the coding genes for inflammatory cytokines (interleukin-1α, ~10-fold; interleukin-6, ~20-fold; interleukin-8, ~30-fold; and tumor necrosis factor-alpha, ~6-fold) and downregulated the transcriptional levels of KRT10 (~10-fold), FLG (~4-fold), and TGM1 (~2-fold), indicating that CD437 can diminish inflammation and hyperkeratinization. In summary, CD437 deserves further attention for its dual function as a potential acne therapeutic that potentially acts on both the pathogen and the host.

How to Promote Skin Repair? In-Depth Look at Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Strategies

Skin repair encompasses epidermal barrier repair and wound healing which involves multiple cellular and molecular stages. Therefore, many skin repair strategies have been proposed. In order to characterize the usage frequency of skin repair ingredients in cosmetics, medicines, and medical devices, commercialized in Portuguese pharmacies and parapharmacies, a comprehensive analysis of the products' composition was performed. A total of 120 cosmetic products, collected from national pharmacies online platforms, 21 topical medicines, and 46 medical devices, collected from INFARMED database, were included in the study, revealing the top 10 most used skin repair ingredients in these categories. A critical review regarding the effectiveness of the top ingredients was performed and an in-depth analysis focused on the top three skin repair ingredients pursued. Results demonstrated that top three most used cosmetic ingredients were metal salts and oxides (78.3%), vitamin E and its derivatives (54.2%), and Centella asiatica (L.) Urb. extract and actives (35.8%). Regarding medicines, metal salts and oxides were also the most used (47.4%) followed by vitamin B5 and derivatives (23.8%), and vitamin A and derivatives (26.3%). Silicones and derivatives were the most common skin repair ingredients in medical devices (33%), followed by petrolatum and derivatives (22%) and alginate (15%). This work provides an overview of the most used skin repair ingredients, highlighting their different mechanisms of action, aiming to provide an up-to-date tool to support health professionals' decisions.

A Novel Hyaluronic Acid Matrix Ingredient with Regenerative, Anti-Aging and Antioxidant Capacity

Hyaluronic acid (HA) and proteoglycans (such as dermatan sulphate (DS) and chondroitin sulphate (CS)) are the main components of the extracellular matrix of the skin, along with collagen and elastin. These components decrease with age, which implies a loss of skin moisture causing wrinkles, sagging and aging. Currently, the external and internal administration of effective ingredients that can reach the epidermis and dermis is the main alternative for combating skin aging. The objective of this work was to extract, characterise and evaluate the potential of an HA matrix ingredient to support anti-aging. The HA matrix was isolated and purified from rooster comb and characterised physicochemically and molecularly. In addition, its regenerative, anti-aging and antioxidant potential and intestinal absorption were evaluated. The results show that the HA matrix is composed of 67% HA, with an average molecular weight of 1.3 MDa; 12% sulphated glycosaminoglycans, including DS and CS; 17% protein, including collagen (10.4%); and water. The in vitro evaluation of the HA matrix's biological activity showed regenerative properties in both fibroblasts and keratinocytes, as well as moisturising, anti-aging and antioxidant effects. Furthermore, the results suggest that the HA matrix could be absorbed in the intestine, implying a potential oral as well as topical use for skin care, either as an ingredient in a nutraceutical or a cosmetic product.

Efficacy and Safety of the Genistein Nutraceutical Product Containing Vitamin E, Vitamin B3, and Ceramide on Skin Health in Postmenopausal Women: A Randomized, Double-Blind, Placebo-Controlled Clinical Trial

Skin aging is one of the most concerning issues that occur after menopause. The Genistein Nutraceutical (GEN) product, containing genistein, vitamin E, vitamin B3, and ceramide, has been formulated as a topical anti-aging product for improving the health of postmenopausal women's facial skin. This study aimed to investigate the efficacy and safety of the GEN product on postmenopausal women's facial skin. This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial randomly assigned 50 postmenopausal women to receive either the GEN product (n = 25) or the placebo (PLA) product (n = 25), topically applied twice daily for 6 weeks. The outcome assessments included multiple skin parameters related to skin wrinkling, color, hydration, and facial skin quality at baseline and week 6. The percentage mean changes or absolute mean changes, where appropriate, in skin parameters were compared between the two groups. The mean age of the participants was 55.8 ± 3.4 years. For skin wrinkling and skin color parameters, only skin redness was significantly higher in the GEN group when compared to the PLA group. Following the application of the GEN product, skin hydration increased while fine pores and their area decreased. Subgroup analysis of older women (age ≥ 56 years) with adequate compliance found significant differences between the two groups in the percentage mean changes of most skin wrinkle parameters. The GEN product has benefits for the facial skin of postmenopausal women, particularly those who are older. It can moisturize facial skin, lessen wrinkles, and enhance redness.

Phenolic Profile and Comparison of the Antioxidant, Anti-Ageing, Anti-Inflammatory, and Protective Activities of Borago officinalis Extracts on Skin Cells

In this study, methanol and water-methanol extracts of borage (Borago officinalis) herb dried using various methods were analysed for their phenolic profile and biological activity. Twelve compounds, including flavonoids (astragalin, kaempferol 4-glucoside, rutoside, and vitexin) and phenolic acids (caffeic, chlorogenic, 3,4-dihydroxyphenylacetic, ferulic, p-hydroxybenzoic, protocatechuic, rosmarinic, and syringic), were determined qualitatively and quantitatively in B. officinalis extracts by the HPLC-DAD method. The highest total flavonoid content was confirmed for the methanol extract from the hot-air-dried herb, while the methanol extract from the air-dried herb was most abundant in phenolic acids. The results of in vitro tests on human keratinocytes (HaCaT) and fibroblasts (BJ) showed that the extracts were able to reduce the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species in skin cells. Tests performed to assess inhibition of protein denaturation, lipoxygenase activity, and proteinase activity demonstrated that borage extracts have anti-inflammatory properties. In addition, the methanol extract of the herb dried in a convection oven showed the strongest inhibition of both collagenase and elastase activity, which is indicative of anti-ageing properties. The results show that the borage extracts are a source of valuable bioactive compounds with beneficial properties in the context of skin cell protection.

Biotechnological Approaches to Producing Natural Antioxidants: Anti-Ageing and Skin Longevity Prospects

Plants are the main source of bioactive compounds that can be used for the formulation of cosmetic products. Plant extracts have numerous proven health benefits, among which are anti-ageing and skin-care properties. However, with the increased demand for plant-derived cosmetic products, there is a crucial prerequisite for establishing alternative approaches to conventional methods to ensure sufficient biomass for sustainable production. Plant tissue culture techniques, such as in vitro root cultures, micropropagation, or callogenesis, offer the possibility to produce considerable amounts of bioactive compounds independent of external factors that may influence their production. This production can also be significantly increased with the implementation of other biotechnological approaches such as elicitation, metabolic engineering, precursor and/or nutrient feeding, immobilization, and permeabilization. This work aimed to evaluate the potential of biotechnological tools for producing bioactive compounds, with a focus on bioactive compounds with anti-ageing properties, which can be used for the development of green-label cosmeceutical products. In addition, some examples demonstrating the use of plant tissue culture techniques to produce high-value bioactive ingredients for cosmeceutical applications are also addressed, showing the importance of these tools and approaches for the sustainable production of plant-derived cosmetic products.

α-Ionone protects against UVB-induced photoaging in epidermal keratinocytes

Objective

To evaluate whether α-ionone, an aromatic compound mainly found in raspberries, carrots, roasted almonds, fruits, and herbs, inhibits UVB-mediated photoaging and barrier dysfunction in a human epidermal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells).

Methods

The anti-photoaging effect of α-ionone was evaluated by detecting the expression of barrier-related genes and matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) in HaCaT cells. The levels of reactive oxygen species, oxidation product, antioxidant enzyme, and inflammatory factors were further analysed to underline the protective effect of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging.

Results

It was found that α-ionone attenuated UVB-induced barrier dysfunction by reversing keratin 1 and filaggrin in HaCaT cells. α-Ionone also reduced the protein amount of MMP-1 and mRNA expression of MMP-1 and MMP-3 in UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells, implying protective effects on extracellular matrix. Furthermore, HaCaT cells exposed to α-ionone showed significant decreases in interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8, and tumor necrosis factor-α as compared to UVB-irradiated HaCaT cells. α-Ionone treatment significantly inhibited the UVB-induced intracellular reactive oxygen species increase and malondialdehyde accumulation. Therefore, the beneficial effects of α-ionone on inhibiting MMPs secretion and barrier damage may be related to attenuated inflammation and oxidative stress.

Conclusion

Our results highlight the protective effects of α-ionone on epidermal photoaging and promote its clinic application as a potential natural anti-photodamage agent in future.

Anthocyanin from Lycium ruthenicum Murr. in the Qaidam Basin Alleviates Ultraviolet-Induced Apoptosis of Human Skin Fibroblasts by Regulating the Death Receptor Pathway

Purpose

The study aimed to investigate the potential protective role of anthocyanin from Lycium ruthenicum Murr. in the Qaidam Basin against ultraviolet B (UVB)-induced apoptosis of human skin fibroblasts (HSFs).

Methods

HSFs cultured in vitro were randomly divided into a control group, UVB group, and anthocyanin groups (0.1, 0.5, and 1.0 mg/mL). HSFs in the UVB and anthocyanin groups were exposed to 30 mJ/cm² UVB to establish a photoaging model. Then, apoptosis rate, tumor necrosis factor-α (TNF-α), cysteinyl aspartate specific proteinase-3 (caspase-3), cysteinyl aspartate specific proteinase-7 (caspase-7), and survivin expression were evaluated.

Results

UVB irradiation can increase the apoptosis rate of HSFs and expression of TNF-α, caspase-7, and survivin. Anthocyanin pretreatment (0.1, 0.5, and 1.0 mg/mL) decreased UVB-induced apoptosis rate and TNF-α and caspase-7 expression and increased survivin expression. Compared with the control group, the apoptosis rate and expression of TNF-α, caspase-7, and survivin of anthocyanin groups in UVB-irradiated HSFs were high. Among the three doses of anthocyanin (0.1, 0.5, and 1.0 mg/mL) groups, the apoptosis rate and TNF-α expression of anthocyanin at 1.0 mg/mL were the lowest. There was no significant change in caspase-3 expression in each group.

Conclusion

Anthocyanin from Lycium ruthenicum Murr. in the Qaidam Basin could alleviate UVB-induced apoptosis by regulating the death receptor pathway.

Screening and Structure-Activity Relationship for Selective and Potent Anti-Melanogenesis Agents Derived from Species of Mulberry (Genus Morus)

Tyrosinase is a multifunctional, copper-containing and rate-limiting oxidase that catalyses crucial steps in the melanogenesis pathway and is responsible for skin-pigmentation abnormalities in mammals. Numerous tyrosinase inhibitors derived from natural and synthetic sources have been identified as an objective for the development of anti-melanogenesis agents. However, due to side effects and lack of expected efficiency, only a small percentage of them are used for medical and cosmetic purposes. This critical review focuses on searching for novel active substances and recently discovered plant-derived anti-tyrosinase inhibitors from the Morus genus (Moraceae family). A detailed analysis of their structure-activity relationships is discussed. The information contained in this article is crucial for the cosmetics and medical industries, in order to show new directions for the effective search for natural anti-melanogenesis products (with satisfactory efficiency and safety) to treat and cure hyperpigmentation.

Assessment of Cosmetic and Dermatological Properties and Safety of Use of Model Skin Tonics with Kombucha-Fermented Red Berry Extracts

Kombucha is a health-promoting beverage that is produced by fermenting sweetened tea using symbiotic cultures of bacteria belonging to the genus Acetobacter, Gluconobacter, and yeast of the genus Saccharomyces. This study compared the cosmetic and dermatological properties of the extracts of the following redberries: R. rubrum, F. vesca, and R. idaeus, and their ferments, which were obtained by fermentation for 10 and 20 days using tea fungus. For this purpose, the fermented and non-fermented extracts were compared in terms of their chemical composition using the HPLC/ESI-MS chromatographic method, demonstrating the high content of biologically active compounds that were present in the ferments. The antioxidant activity of the tested samples was evaluated using DPPH and ABTS tests, as well as by evaluating the scavenging of the external and intracellular free radicals. The cytotoxicity of the extracts and the ferments, as well as the cosmetic formulations, were also determined by conducting Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests assessing the cell viability and metabolism using skin cell lines: fibroblasts and keratinocytes. In addition, application tests were conducted showing the positive effects of the model cosmetic tonics on the TEWL, the skin hydration, and the skin pH. The results indicate that both the extracts and the ferments that were obtained from kombucha can be valuable ingredients in cosmetic products.

Evaluation of the Efficacy and Safety of Blue Fenugreek Kale Extract on Skin Health and Aging: In-vitro and Clinical Evidences

Background

Objective

Methods

Results

Conclusion